Hey Tony, electronics repair tech here from Calgary, Canada. I grew up in the 2000's and have always had a fascination with electronics. My job nowadays unfortunately is mostly changing parts, microsoldering and trying to avoid breaking glass and LCD's. Once in awhile I get to repair a TV power supply which is fun. I really appreciate how creative you are and how well you explain stuff right down to the detail. I really love vintage electronics and I've learned so much about component level stuff from your videos. This is knowledge that's hard to come by now a days. Thankyou for all your hard work and for making it available for new generations. You're a champ and take care!
I owned one of these in the early 1980s. Got it from an accountant who had two jobs, and paid for his Hi-F fix from the second job. He had everything as soon as it came out: Bose, Sansui Quadraphonic, Linn LP12, Isobarik . . . He had a bigger vinyl collection than the regional wholesale. Then he wised up, sold it all off, and bought a bigger house :-)
Fantastic job! I have done some complicated ones but this one overshadows mine by far. BTW, when I recap my vintage sound equipment, I also sometimes find discrepancies between what was actually factory installed versus what is in the service manual. It is important to do a table (like in MS Excel) with all the components to be replaced and compare one by one as they are being pulled from the PCB. It will save one's a lot of time and aggravations. For instance I have found discrepancies like 4.7uF/47uF, 2.2uF/22uF, 2.2nF/2.2uF, and Voltages discrepancies too, and so forth. One thing that I usually do is to replace unshielded inductors (like the 1.0 uH or 2.2 uH (high Amps) for speakers' protection circuitry) with high-quality shielded one (they are not expensive and it avoids parasites currents due to magnetic fields interactions on the board).
I'm glad someone else noticed those mistakes. When I first looked at them I was quite confused. Thought I was missing something. Figured it out though.
purchased a marantz 2275 used in '81,for 312$,pacific stereo,a couple months after purchase,I had momentary dropouts on both chs,,waited till I had a day off midweek,took it our of the housing,removed the face panel,squirted tuner cleaner on every pole switch,button spring,pot all the way to the pwr switch at the left side,,,, the dropouts stopped marantz, great devices,still great after 40 years.
Wohoo! Wuerth capacitors! It's nice to see capacitors i always use too. That means they're Xraytonyb approved! Hehe ^^; And I also think they're really pretty with their red and white. Easily recognizable. That plastic mounting plate for the main filter capacitors and how the're mounted looks really good too; almost an upgrade to the receiver *thumbs up*
This is great stuff. I am trying to learn how to fix my old technics SU-7300K amplifier. Can't afford a new one, or to let anyone else fix it. Thanks, this probably helps!
Adam, are you polish? did you use them? I ve seen a lot of them in Mouser store and wondering how good would they be comparing to Vishay/BC, Nippon-Chem, Pana, Elna SmII. Any info about Wurth capacitors- seem to be a new player here...
on a old luxman amplifier m-6000 power amplifier i had defective power supply electrolytic capacitor , i gut out the capacitor and put replacement capacitor that have the same electrical characteristic using an arrangement of 7 capacitor in parallel, those 7 cap fit completely in the old capacitor can . what is nice with that repair it keep the same look when the cover is of the amplifier is open
Great job on this receiver ! Were any additional component or circuit changes made to accomodate the 8200uf capacitors ? The originals are 7200uf , just wondering if this higher value capacitor will create any additional load on the transformer. Thanks!
The number is a date code. The manufacturer is identified by the company logo. In this case Matsushita (Panasonic).
Right. That tristar is Matsushita's older logo
Hey Tony, electronics repair tech here from Calgary, Canada. I grew up in the 2000's and have always had a fascination with electronics. My job nowadays unfortunately is mostly changing parts, microsoldering and trying to avoid breaking glass and LCD's. Once in awhile I get to repair a TV power supply which is fun. I really appreciate how creative you are and how well you explain stuff right down to the detail. I really love vintage electronics and I've learned so much about component level stuff from your videos. This is knowledge that's hard to come by now a days. Thankyou for all your hard work and for making it available for new generations. You're a champ and take care!
I owned one of these in the early 1980s. Got it from an accountant who had two jobs, and paid for his Hi-F fix from the second job. He had everything as soon as it came out: Bose, Sansui Quadraphonic, Linn LP12, Isobarik . . . He had a bigger vinyl collection than the regional wholesale. Then he wised up, sold it all off, and bought a bigger house :-)
I only understand a tenth of what you do but I love watching the process and I love seeing this old equipment.
Very nice work, I really like that plastic capacitor platform. Nice high quality components all around.
Tony I want to thank you for your advice on the flux cleaner and how it works with the pcb coating. This is extremely helpful. Thanks.
Fantastic job! I have done some complicated ones but this one overshadows mine by far. BTW, when I recap my vintage sound equipment, I also sometimes find discrepancies between what was actually factory installed versus what is in the service manual. It is important to do a table (like in MS Excel) with all the components to be replaced and compare one by one as they are being pulled from the PCB. It will save one's a lot of time and aggravations. For instance I have found discrepancies like 4.7uF/47uF, 2.2uF/22uF, 2.2nF/2.2uF, and Voltages discrepancies too, and so forth. One thing that I usually do is to replace unshielded inductors (like the 1.0 uH or 2.2 uH (high Amps) for speakers' protection circuitry) with high-quality shielded one (they are not expensive and it avoids parasites currents due to magnetic fields interactions on the board).
I'm glad someone else noticed those mistakes. When I first looked at them I was quite confused. Thought I was missing something. Figured it out though.
purchased a marantz 2275 used in '81,for 312$,pacific stereo,a couple months after purchase,I had momentary dropouts on both chs,,waited till I had a day off midweek,took it our of the housing,removed the face panel,squirted tuner cleaner on every pole switch,button spring,pot all the way to the pwr switch at the left side,,,, the dropouts stopped marantz, great devices,still great after 40 years.
Lot of good information on troubleshooting schematics, which should not happen. Great tip on cleaning pcbs also.
Very interesting. Instructive and very educationally presented. Really looking forward to the next video about the project.
Wohoo! Wuerth capacitors! It's nice to see capacitors i always use too. That means they're Xraytonyb approved! Hehe ^^; And I also think they're really pretty with their red and white. Easily recognizable. That plastic mounting plate for the main filter capacitors and how the're mounted looks really good too; almost an upgrade to the receiver *thumbs up*
Hi Tony. Thank you for this interesting and informative post, and practical theory behind the music.
great series very informative...cant wait for the next one ...….cheers !
Man thank you very much for sharing, a lot of good info in just 45m
Love your videos man.
I would be interested to see a comparison between torroid and conventional transformers with a discussion on their strengths and weaknesses.
I THINK TONY EXPLAINED WHAT THE O SCOPE WAS FOR,ITS REASON FOR BEING; WAS MAINLY TO SHOW WHAT THEY CALL MULTIPATH INTERFERENCE IN THE FM FRONT END.
This is great stuff. I am trying to learn how to fix my old technics SU-7300K amplifier. Can't afford a new one, or to let anyone else fix it. Thanks, this probably helps!
Start with the basics, and this guy's never going to teach anything. Uncle Doug is were you need to go to learn.
Kemet caps are top quality. Good job
Adam, are you polish? did you use them? I ve seen a lot of them in Mouser store and wondering how good would they be comparing to Vishay/BC, Nippon-Chem, Pana, Elna SmII. Any info about Wurth capacitors- seem to be a new player here...
on a old luxman amplifier m-6000 power amplifier i had defective power supply electrolytic capacitor , i gut out the capacitor and put replacement capacitor that have the same electrical characteristic using an arrangement of 7 capacitor in parallel, those 7 cap fit completely in the old capacitor can . what is nice with that repair it keep the same look when the cover is of the amplifier is open
Great job on this receiver ! Were any additional component or circuit changes made to accomodate the 8200uf capacitors ?
The originals are 7200uf , just wondering if this higher value capacitor will create any additional load on the transformer.
Thanks!
Tony, may you disclose the plastic u used and where to buy it?
so what's the name of the plastic you used as a stand off for the 4 capacitors?
Tony ... I recently acquired a 2500 can I get you to rebuild the power supply ? Michael
Thank you for sharing this video.
Did you consider adding the 2 missing bleeder resistors to the positive power supplies?
Hello Tony thank you so much for video , what’s name plastic board which stand off 4 capacitor?
Nice work on the power caps!
HOW do schematics get so far off like that?
Please leave you subtitles up longer. I can't read that fast.
pause the video.
@@jonka1 when you pause the video on smartphone or tablet it remains dimm and large play sign is in the middle....
👍🏻😎 Nice job!
Will you fix a nice kenwood amp for me?
And it’s extremely, EXTREMELY important to use the “dim bulb” tester when you discover the *$#@$ schematic is wrong! 😎
did somebody pay you to shotgun the entire thing or is the receiver for your personal use?
One trick I like to use in regards to bleeder resistors is to add a series LED to give a visual indication of voltage present.
@Mike Adams The bleeder resistor is the current limiting resistor for the LED.