You could have also drawn the part fully in Fusion360 and then split it in half for 3d printing instead of drawing two seperate sides. (Maybe that's easier with measurements). When 3d printing something as a replacement parts we sometimes forget that with 3d printing we do not have the constraints of injection moulding. You could add extra ribs/filets/corners and all other sorts of things to make an even stronger part because you are not limited by the process.
I like your comment about "to make it even stronger" as that is so true, but what's the difference if you create the part in half then then duplicate/clone that part in the slicer? Or you could even copy the body and create a second one as your last step to make the other half.
Whatever you try, measure, print protypes, measure again… The truth always appears when the part meets reality. I once took great pains at cloning an organic form of a shower head holder that was broken, only to find out the reason it was so, was that the shower head did not fit the holder as it had been replaced earlier. So copy, perfect. Installation, perfect. Reality, it was a bad fit.
I liked the video Joel, the practical application of 3d printing is really what sold me on it. I just wanted to add that 3d printed parts do not always need to look the same as the part they are replacing. More often than not we can design and make a more durable part because we dont have the economic, manufacturing, and technology constraints that drove the design of the original part to be what it is. It would be so much easier to design those cross extrusions as drafted cylinders. and you end up with a stronger part, and may even have space to add locating features to help you glue the part together.
Yeah I was going to say the same 3 Max 4 cylinders extruded in fusion and it's done. No need to over complicate things. It should have a better fit and a stronger part.
An excellent example of the "how do I dice this up for 3D printing" game. I'm curious if the initial part happened to have an injection molding line along the same axis. A straight injection molding line is often (but not always) a good hint for what would work for a 3D print.
Joel, great video! Love it. You don't need to divide your measurement in half though! Click the little extent button right above where you typed in your measurement to change it to the mode you were after when extruding symmetrically on both sides.
These are my favorite videos! I do more practical prints than models. I love fixing stuff or making improvements to things. Great idea in splitting that part in half 👏. Layer lines continue to be a design issue and you solved that problem here. Kudos! Thanks for sharing!
The ability to model and 3D print pieces to repair things around the house has been one of my greatest joys in the maker world. Things that would have been nearly impossible to source replacement parts for are no longer just thrown away or left in an non 100% functional state which can be extremely aggravating. Thanks for continuing to bring out great content, Joel!
If you stare at a part long enough, you start to see the core basic shapes (triangle, square, cylinder and so on). Once you start to see them, designing becomes a little easier. I love designing things that fix or correct a problem around the house. Even my workplaces have benefited 😁
There's another moral to this cool story too. Don't be afraid to reach out for help when you need it! If that person hadn't sent out a message asking if anyone had a 3D printer to fix a problem they had, they wouldn't be getting the parts they needed and probably would have had to replace the whole kit or stand.
Nice work! One thing to remember, the orignal part is a + design because of the injection molding tool to keep wall thicknesses consistent and for tool pull directions to make the tool simpler. Since yours is a 3d print; there’s no reason you couldn’t make it a full cylinder with infill for an even strong part :) Done that before. Spent all the time duplicating a part and then realized I don’t have to be constraint by a part that was designed for an injection molded tool :)
Nicely done! If the part only accepts hollow tubes then you don't need to include the + shape cross section. You could have make a completely cylindrical part. Although fitment would have needed to be precise. So instead you could have added very large fillets on the inside corners of those + features so it looks something like this ✦, essentially smoothing or rounding it out thus making the part much stronger than the original. Good call printing the part laying down though. And splitting it in half was a good call, you get double the wall thickness on those faces.
For applications like this, I tend to make the connector a little beefier (there’s lots of space in the tubes left) and to make a hole in the inside where I can fit a screw or a wire. With ABS/ASA you can even glue the metal in place with a little Acetone. The part is often times stronger than the original this way.
I love to see people gtting more and more into CAD. For me CAD was the reason to get a 3d printer in the first place. During my apprenticeship as an CNC-machinist I learned to use solidworks and wanted to have my creations in real life, not just on the screen. And since CNC milling aint cheap and you cant do unlimited privat stuff during working hours i needed a different solution :)
@ cylinders would have higher friction when inserting them in to the tubes, and if it's an interference fit, would not be able to deform to allow insertion.
I can truly relate to this. I bought a 3D printer because I wanted to make scale models of some video game mechas. But because there weren't any ready files, I had to learn 3D modeling (Blender, not some parametric suite sadly). I ended up not building any mecha model, but I was able to make functional prints. I'm happy when I have to make a spacer, some adapter, a replacement knob. Sure it take days, it's easier to buy it online, but the effort and learning process is worth it, especially once you're done with the hard part of designing and iterating, you can just print it again.
My friends dishwashers had a plastic piece That wore out, and somebody else had already did a 3D model on printables, so I just downloaded it, printed eight of them out of ABS, ASA. $300 for the replacement piece.
My best 3D print fix was a replacement connector on the coolant system of my car, had to wait 3 days for postage for a new part. I found a file, modified it a little and printed in resin. Got me to work and back until the replacement arrived.
On the symmetric extrude, there is a button, that you almost circled, that would make the distance the total extent rather than the arm extent. That would have done the divide by for you.
best of all: once you have that model, in case the printed part breaks you can also order that part in metal now. may be a great upgrade for the stuff you love :)
Just a thought... I would've designed the actual part in Fusion and then cut it in Bambu studio or Orca with alignment pins. That way you get a more solid part and it stays aligned and your print orientation all in one. Plus.. print them a spare! :-)
Just a very friendly recommendation, watch some Slant3D videos on how to design FDM prints based on injection molded models. I´ll bet my ass off that these parts are just pushed into slim steel tubes, so there is absolutely no reason in copying the cross section, which is only neccessary for the mold shrinkage. You just could have it printed round instead of cross-shaped and would have saved a ton of designing and even further increased the strength.
the part in its original form will have a flange the width of the pipes thickness all around the middle piece, so no matter how you turn it as long as you dont cut into that you wont be able to print it on its side without having to support 90 deg overhangs
I love these quick(atleast I usually feel like it will be quick before I start) fixes to things, and replacement parts with 3D Printing. I always get such a level of accomplishment from a part actually working for the desired purpose. I'm far from an expert in CAD, but it's definitely fun when you get the hang of it.
I printed something similar to connect PVC pipes. Shortening the pipe length and adding connectors reduces the weight and sag on each pipe. They wanted almost $1.50 for each connector but printed dozens for a partial material spool.
It'll probably break again. In such cases I usually make the part much thicker than the molded one, and also I would've reinforced the part by making a hole(s) through and pressing the steel rod inside (TIG welding rods work really well)
ideas to make an easier version of this with some improvements (won't be an exact copy anymore, but still 100% functional): - don't bother with the + crosssection... for once slant is right: this is only done because it's better suited for injection molding - don't cut it in half in the model. use the slicer for that. they often come with functions that automatically place alignment holes for dowels or other alignment options - give the part that goes into the pipe a tiny bit of a taper for about the first third. that will make assembly way easier and allows you to make the part just that tad on the bigger side to ensure a firm fit - dont make the part fully circular: give it flat sides top and bottom about 1/6 of the diameter in: this will allow you to still print the part as a single piece if you want while not impacting performance - upgrade the part: give it a mounting hole that allows to screw in something. then make a screw on holder for the drum sticks!
Advice: - Print your prototype with PLA or whatever is cheap. Check, then print with expensive stuff - CAD is fun but can be frustrating. Double check measurements before you go too deep and then have to start again due to parameters
El tema que veo es que también tiene que ajustar el diseño para ser impreso en 3d asociado a funcionalidad más que una copia...y quizás haber impreso en una sola pieza el modelo adecuadamente considerando la impresión 3d
Awesome! These are my favorite types of videos. I have been intimidated to try fusion, so I design similar repairs and designs in the slicer. This convinced me to take the plunge next time.
Good job. I would have gone with round end parts however. A bit easier to design and should hold in place even better. The cross shape is just to save on material when injection molding. But infill would really not be that much.
It’s funny because this is the most of 3D printing I do: fix stuff around the house. And then publish the models on printables in case someone has the same need 😁
most of my prints are broken clips , templets etc , the printed part can be stronger than the original part , eg I broke a clip on a vacuum cleaner the first time I removed the cylinder , but my 3d printed part will outlast the cleaner . Sometimes you need to make the part for a 3d printer and not to be moulded . NEVER print your first CAD print in any expensive material , because you are guaranteed you will have made a mistake , print with PLA until it's right .
When copying irregular shapes in CAD, you can calibrate the space so that 100mm on screen is actually 100mm. Then hold or tape the part to the screen and you can trace.
I've had people come up to me on multiple occasions to design and print a replacement part for them. One of them was for a stroller. The manufacturer only sold a complete assembly of where they needed the part. So I just designed and printed the individual part they needed and it worked perfectly! Doing the things is fun!
Just out intrest how long did it take to print because I'm a machinist and am prototyping a hdpe plastic part at the moment, it's 150mm sq by 20mm thick with various slots on the face and 2 30mm holes and a second op with 2 screw holes on the side, I have managed to get the part machined in 8 mins, the problem I have is it needs to be food grade plastic and be fully water tight and be used in door or out door, if it was to be printed how do you work out the costs because I can machine solid quicker than could be printed but my cnc labour time would be higher, say material is £2.00 and mc time about £10.00 so minimum I would charge my customer is £12.00 but when I see printed stuff on esty it's ridiculously cheap but if it was made in a solid material it would be a far superior. I can't get my head around how guys price the job.
But then the cylinder is floating and needs support right? The 'x' parts probably too, I don't see how you'd get them to lie flat on the plate with that lip. Honestly it doesn't need to print all in one piece, and doesn't even need glue (my main reason for obsessing over single piece prints, I hate aligning and gluing) edit: that's not to say you couldn't design a new part that works, it just wouldn't be replicating the existing part.
"artisans of vaul" here has several good videos of photometry and 3D scanning. Sure, it is mainly one company in each video but he gives the ins and outs, like in the "MetroX 3D" video.
1:53 I think is the best a piece like that that, relatively simple and geometrical whould take less to simple model the duplicate, because if you scan you have to make rethopology post process. For pieces with much details could be a good way to save time, as anyways you gonna have to make some short of postporcess and rethopology, but for something to simple and precise, take a few scaled picture and "Trace". There are precision scanners, but are more for indsutrial use, not exactly cheap or easy to get. At least for what i understand the last time I dig in the field, maybe there have been improvements since.
You should use PCBWAY and order some PCB from their user area and make into kits with 3d printing. I bet there's a clock on the site or a robot or two.
Lol that part is like 3-5 min max of modeling (to make something easier to 3d print). 3D printing FTW! - probably would have chosen PC i stead of CF-Nylon.
Not particularly good for construction work. There are some plugins that can help but Blender is really more for modeling. Like in 'create something that looks nice', not so much for precision work. If you want to create a figurine - you know, batman or something - that's a job for Blender.
@@harmless6813 ive been using it for precision work for years i treat the blender units as millimeters and scale correctly in print software sometimes takes one test cube and a pair of digital calipers but once you find the scale works every time .
It'd be cool if there was a website designed to handle this sort of request. I enjoy learning cad, but want to not waste my time making junk. It'd be cool to have a place to find people who need help and get it done while practicing making parts.
the issue is that often its an iterative process... and if you dont have access to the original or the object that needs to accept the part then you will never notice the subtle flaws in your designs that will make the parts unusable. so that has to be with local communities
I've designed part for people who are across the country. I had no issues other than a part needing a slight adjustment. I told them what measurements I needed and to take multiple picture angles. It's worked for me. I think with the right instruction it could work pretty well. There could even be an app to guide someone through the process. It's a challenge I enjoy. I got tons of local people who know I'm here to help for free. They just don't have the mind to know when I can help, so I get a few a year. I'd like to have more.
Always prototype with PLA before using your fancy PA-CF filament 😄
You could have also drawn the part fully in Fusion360 and then split it in half for 3d printing instead of drawing two seperate sides. (Maybe that's easier with measurements). When 3d printing something as a replacement parts we sometimes forget that with 3d printing we do not have the constraints of injection moulding. You could add extra ribs/filets/corners and all other sorts of things to make an even stronger part because you are not limited by the process.
Yup. Design for 3D printing instead of injection molding. Make it stronger
I like your comment about "to make it even stronger" as that is so true, but what's the difference if you create the part in half then then duplicate/clone that part in the slicer? Or you could even copy the body and create a second one as your last step to make the other half.
Whatever you try, measure, print protypes, measure again… The truth always appears when the part meets reality.
I once took great pains at cloning an organic form of a shower head holder that was broken, only to find out the reason it was so, was that the shower head did not fit the holder as it had been replaced earlier. So copy, perfect. Installation, perfect. Reality, it was a bad fit.
I liked the video Joel, the practical application of 3d printing is really what sold me on it. I just wanted to add that 3d printed parts do not always need to look the same as the part they are replacing. More often than not we can design and make a more durable part because we dont have the economic, manufacturing, and technology constraints that drove the design of the original part to be what it is. It would be so much easier to design those cross extrusions as drafted cylinders. and you end up with a stronger part, and may even have space to add locating features to help you glue the part together.
One could also maybe Insert Bolts or woodensticks INSIDE the Print to make the Thing really durable (but thatbwould be kinda much Here maybe )
@@MaxMichel89 Would make the connectors stronger that the rest of the rack. ;-)
Yeah I was going to say the same 3 Max 4 cylinders extruded in fusion and it's done. No need to over complicate things. It should have a better fit and a stronger part.
An excellent example of the "how do I dice this up for 3D printing" game.
I'm curious if the initial part happened to have an injection molding line along the same axis. A straight injection molding line is often (but not always) a good hint for what would work for a 3D print.
ooh, I don't have the part anymore so cannot check. However, that's a good tip to look for!
Joel, great video! Love it. You don't need to divide your measurement in half though! Click the little extent button right above where you typed in your measurement to change it to the mode you were after when extruding symmetrically on both sides.
These are some of my fav 3dPrinting nerd videos - thanks for taking the time to press record and share Joel!
These are my favorite videos! I do more practical prints than models. I love fixing stuff or making improvements to things.
Great idea in splitting that part in half 👏. Layer lines continue to be a design issue and you solved that problem here. Kudos! Thanks for sharing!
The ability to model and 3D print pieces to repair things around the house has been one of my greatest joys in the maker world. Things that would have been nearly impossible to source replacement parts for are no longer just thrown away or left in an non 100% functional state which can be extremely aggravating. Thanks for continuing to bring out great content, Joel!
If you stare at a part long enough, you start to see the core basic shapes (triangle, square, cylinder and so on). Once you start to see them, designing becomes a little easier.
I love designing things that fix or correct a problem around the house. Even my workplaces have benefited 😁
There's another moral to this cool story too. Don't be afraid to reach out for help when you need it!
If that person hadn't sent out a message asking if anyone had a 3D printer to fix a problem they had, they wouldn't be getting the parts they needed and probably would have had to replace the whole kit or stand.
It's always good and a bit refreshing to go back to the basics of design, fixing stuff and helping people. Good job Joel.
Nice work! One thing to remember, the orignal part is a + design because of the injection molding tool to keep wall thicknesses consistent and for tool pull directions to make the tool simpler.
Since yours is a 3d print; there’s no reason you couldn’t make it a full cylinder with infill for an even strong part :)
Done that before. Spent all the time duplicating a part and then realized I don’t have to be constraint by a part that was designed for an injection molded tool :)
Nicely done! If the part only accepts hollow tubes then you don't need to include the + shape cross section. You could have make a completely cylindrical part. Although fitment would have needed to be precise. So instead you could have added very large fillets on the inside corners of those + features so it looks something like this ✦, essentially smoothing or rounding it out thus making the part much stronger than the original. Good call printing the part laying down though. And splitting it in half was a good call, you get double the wall thickness on those faces.
I have these exact drums in my class. They are great but those pieces can be brittle. I love seeing this to help reuse items rather than replace. ❤️
For applications like this, I tend to make the connector a little beefier (there’s lots of space in the tubes left) and to make a hole in the inside where I can fit a screw or a wire.
With ABS/ASA you can even glue the metal in place with a little Acetone.
The part is often times stronger than the original this way.
For "halved" parts like this, add notches to use tie straps to hold together as an alternative to glue.
Add small holes to use filament as guide pins.
I love to see people gtting more and more into CAD. For me CAD was the reason to get a 3d printer in the first place. During my apprenticeship as an CNC-machinist I learned to use solidworks and wanted to have my creations in real life, not just on the screen. And since CNC milling aint cheap and you cant do unlimited privat stuff during working hours i needed a different solution :)
Great video! CAD + 3DPrint feels like a super power!❤❤❤
Nice (and generous) work! I'd put a fillet on those inside 90° edges to add some strength.
Oh dude, great idea!
I was thinking fillets or chamfers.
I would use cylinders instead of the cross shape. It's really just designed that way to save on material for the injection molding process.
@ cylinders would have higher friction when inserting them in to the tubes, and if it's an interference fit, would not be able to deform to allow insertion.
@@MarkFraserWeather I prefer fillets. I believe they are stronger as you don't have a 45° discontinuity.
This is why you always print in a cheap filament first! (Unless you got your pa12Cf free from polymaker. In which case do whatever you want lol)
In Fusion, right above what you circled, you can select the right one. It sets it to total length, so you don’t have to halve your measurement
yes! blows my mind that it isn't the default option when extruding to both sides
I can truly relate to this.
I bought a 3D printer because I wanted to make scale models of some video game mechas. But because there weren't any ready files, I had to learn 3D modeling (Blender, not some parametric suite sadly). I ended up not building any mecha model, but I was able to make functional prints.
I'm happy when I have to make a spacer, some adapter, a replacement knob. Sure it take days, it's easier to buy it online, but the effort and learning process is worth it, especially once you're done with the hard part of designing and iterating, you can just print it again.
My friends dishwashers had a plastic piece That wore out, and somebody else had already did a 3D model on printables, so I just downloaded it, printed eight of them out of ABS, ASA. $300 for the replacement piece.
My best 3D print fix was a replacement connector on the coolant system of my car, had to wait 3 days for postage for a new part. I found a file, modified it a little and printed in resin. Got me to work and back until the replacement arrived.
What's the go to tutorial for Fusion360? Is there something like the Blender Guru Donut for Fusion?
On the symmetric extrude, there is a button, that you almost circled, that would make the distance the total extent rather than the arm extent. That would have done the divide by for you.
best of all: once you have that model, in case the printed part breaks you can also order that part in metal now. may be a great upgrade for the stuff you love :)
Just a thought... I would've designed the actual part in Fusion and then cut it in Bambu studio or Orca with alignment pins. That way you get a more solid part and it stays aligned and your print orientation all in one. Plus.. print them a spare! :-)
Just a very friendly recommendation, watch some Slant3D videos on how to design FDM prints based on injection molded models. I´ll bet my ass off that these parts are just pushed into slim steel tubes, so there is absolutely no reason in copying the cross section, which is only neccessary for the mold shrinkage. You just could have it printed round instead of cross-shaped and would have saved a ton of designing and even further increased the strength.
Instead of crossed, I would have made it a diamond shape. That way it's got more meat and has manageable overhangs so it can be printed in one part.
the part in its original form will have a flange the width of the pipes thickness all around the middle piece, so no matter how you turn it as long as you dont cut into that you wont be able to print it on its side without having to support 90 deg overhangs
I love these quick(atleast I usually feel like it will be quick before I start) fixes to things, and replacement parts with 3D Printing. I always get such a level of accomplishment from a part actually working for the desired purpose. I'm far from an expert in CAD, but it's definitely fun when you get the hang of it.
I printed something similar to connect PVC pipes. Shortening the pipe length and adding connectors reduces the weight and sag on each pipe. They wanted almost $1.50 for each connector but printed dozens for a partial material spool.
You should print a sword to hold the pcb logo instead of that wooden plank.
More of this content please. Practical/functional prints are so much better than another flexi.... Anything. 😂
It'll probably break again. In such cases I usually make the part much thicker than the molded one, and also I would've reinforced the part by making a hole(s) through and pressing the steel rod inside (TIG welding rods work really well)
ideas to make an easier version of this with some improvements (won't be an exact copy anymore, but still 100% functional):
- don't bother with the + crosssection... for once slant is right: this is only done because it's better suited for injection molding
- don't cut it in half in the model. use the slicer for that. they often come with functions that automatically place alignment holes for dowels or other alignment options
- give the part that goes into the pipe a tiny bit of a taper for about the first third. that will make assembly way easier and allows you to make the part just that tad on the bigger side to ensure a firm fit
- dont make the part fully circular: give it flat sides top and bottom about 1/6 of the diameter in: this will allow you to still print the part as a single piece if you want while not impacting performance
- upgrade the part: give it a mounting hole that allows to screw in something. then make a screw on holder for the drum sticks!
Advice:
- Print your prototype with PLA or whatever is cheap. Check, then print with expensive stuff
- CAD is fun but can be frustrating. Double check measurements before you go too deep and then have to start again due to parameters
El tema que veo es que también tiene que ajustar el diseño para ser impreso en 3d asociado a funcionalidad más que una copia...y quizás haber impreso en una sola pieza el modelo adecuadamente considerando la impresión 3d
Awesome! These are my favorite types of videos. I have been intimidated to try fusion, so I design similar repairs and designs in the slicer. This convinced me to take the plunge next time.
Good job.
I would have gone with round end parts however. A bit easier to design and should hold in place even better.
The cross shape is just to save on material when injection molding. But infill would really not be that much.
It’s funny because this is the most of 3D printing I do: fix stuff around the house. And then publish the models on printables in case someone has the same need 😁
most of my prints are broken clips , templets etc , the printed part can be stronger than the original part , eg I broke a clip on a vacuum cleaner the first time I removed the cylinder , but my 3d printed part will outlast the cleaner . Sometimes you need to make the part for a 3d printer and not to be moulded .
NEVER print your first CAD print in any expensive material , because you are guaranteed you will have made a mistake , print with PLA until it's right .
When copying irregular shapes in CAD, you can calibrate the space so that 100mm on screen is actually 100mm. Then hold or tape the part to the screen and you can trace.
Omg great idea
I've had people come up to me on multiple occasions to design and print a replacement part for them. One of them was for a stroller. The manufacturer only sold a complete assembly of where they needed the part. So I just designed and printed the individual part they needed and it worked perfectly!
Doing the things is fun!
That is so awesome!
Did you fuse the two parts together for the finished product?
Just glue them together. They will not fall apart since the pipes will hold them in place anyway.
Is that a Prickly Pear Mickey in the background?
Just today I built a jig for my dad that allows to hold a PCB while you install surface mount parts
Good job. Always better when you can avoid supports and add strength to a part at the same time.
Just out intrest how long did it take to print because I'm a machinist and am prototyping a hdpe plastic part at the moment, it's 150mm sq by 20mm thick with various slots on the face and 2 30mm holes and a second op with 2 screw holes on the side, I have managed to get the part machined in 8 mins, the problem I have is it needs to be food grade plastic and be fully water tight and be used in door or out door, if it was to be printed how do you work out the costs because I can machine solid quicker than could be printed but my cnc labour time would be higher, say material is £2.00 and mc time about £10.00 so minimum I would charge my customer is £12.00 but when I see printed stuff on esty it's ridiculously cheap but if it was made in a solid material it would be a far superior. I can't get my head around how guys price the job.
This print was less than an hour if I remember right.
you could rotate the "+" shape by 45 degrees (to make an "x"), then you can probably print the whole thing horizontally
But then the cylinder is floating and needs support right? The 'x' parts probably too, I don't see how you'd get them to lie flat on the plate with that lip. Honestly it doesn't need to print all in one piece, and doesn't even need glue (my main reason for obsessing over single piece prints, I hate aligning and gluing) edit: that's not to say you couldn't design a new part that works, it just wouldn't be replicating the existing part.
"artisans of vaul" here has several good videos of photometry and 3D scanning. Sure, it is mainly one company in each video but he gives the ins and outs, like in the "MetroX 3D" video.
Fantastic video 3d Printing nerd can he fix it yes he can Oh great creator of things I bow down to you keep up the fantastic work
Some good ideas, Joel!
Thank you :)
No no no, 3d printers print 3d printer parts. This is some bad mojo Joel!!!:P
This is the kind of thing that makes me think I should learn to 3D print
Do it!
1:53 I think is the best a piece like that that, relatively simple and geometrical whould take less to simple model the duplicate, because if you scan you have to make rethopology post process.
For pieces with much details could be a good way to save time, as anyways you gonna have to make some short of postporcess and rethopology, but for something to simple and precise, take a few scaled picture and "Trace".
There are precision scanners, but are more for indsutrial use, not exactly cheap or easy to get.
At least for what i understand the last time I dig in the field, maybe there have been improvements since.
Joel to the rescue!
Nerdy CAD time: Instead of dividing by two, you can just select the "Whole Length" option for the distance when using the Symmetric extrude.
You should have used whole length for the extrude
Main reason I do 3D printing is practical parts.
Measure twice, print once!
My first design was a knob for a toaster oven.
Do you still use it?
You should use PCBWAY and order some PCB from their user area and make into kits with 3d printing. I bet there's a clock on the site or a robot or two.
It’s almost like you’re in my brain :)
what is the beeping in your video?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Lol that part is like 3-5 min max of modeling (to make something easier to 3d print). 3D printing FTW! - probably would have chosen PC i stead of CF-Nylon.
when i see this i think home depot or lowes has tee's in plumbing.
It is in deed cheaper to buy a scanner than giving away your work to "the internet" for free
guy made stick.
good story.
good night.
Measure twice, print once. 😂
This geometrical piece could be simply designed with OpenSCAD.
Very true. OpenSCAD was the first CAD stuff I ever did on the channel!
Practical Printing TO THE RESCUE!
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I kept having to pause the video because I heard beeping…weird every time I paused it stopped. Ha ha ha. What’s going on in the background?
I think he did Tell at the beginning that He IS pronting Something in the background
@ thanks, must have missed it.
Try petgf next time pet without the G
Ooh! That’s a fun filament to use :)
What about Blender?
Not particularly good for construction work. There are some plugins that can help but Blender is really more for modeling. Like in 'create something that looks nice', not so much for precision work.
If you want to create a figurine - you know, batman or something - that's a job for Blender.
@@harmless6813 ive been using it for precision work for years i treat the blender units as millimeters and scale correctly in print software sometimes takes one test cube and a pair of digital calipers but once you find the scale works every time .
It'd be cool if there was a website designed to handle this sort of request. I enjoy learning cad, but want to not waste my time making junk. It'd be cool to have a place to find people who need help and get it done while practicing making parts.
the issue is that often its an iterative process...
and if you dont have access to the original or the object that needs to accept the part then you will never notice the subtle flaws in your designs that will make the parts unusable.
so that has to be with local communities
I've designed part for people who are across the country. I had no issues other than a part needing a slight adjustment. I told them what measurements I needed and to take multiple picture angles. It's worked for me.
I think with the right instruction it could work pretty well. There could even be an app to guide someone through the process.
It's a challenge I enjoy. I got tons of local people who know I'm here to help for free. They just don't have the mind to know when I can help, so I get a few a year. I'd like to have more.
Day 3 of asking for a free 3D printer 🫣
cringe
looks like a simple part to do in FreeCAD. Which you failed to mention. High five.
I do most of this stuff in OpenSCAD. I like coding. ;-)
he didn't mention dozens of them, why would he have to mention barely usable piece of software?