@@RonWatson-b6u Thanks Ron. That nose sticks out right with the bumper and takes the first blow. I found a couple of pretty cool hammers on Amazon and put the links in the description. Bought one for myself 😁
@@JimN696 Something I had very little of as a youngster. I walk away plenty of times, it always seems to get easier when I take a quick break. I do way more thinking these days than hammering.
The TIG weld is softer but a MIG works really well. I use a piece of 1/2" copper pipe I spilt down the middle, hammered it flat and bend it to conform to whatever I need backed up. MIG doesn't care as much as TIG as far as impurities go but it seemed to work pretty well. I can use all the help I can get 😁
Attention to the details. Really enjoyed this one, Mark. I'm in the process of dent removal and polishing of the stainless trim on Babs (54 Buick), so I took your advice on wood from an earlier video. Helped a lot. I also practiced on some spare pieces.
Stainless trim is tough to do but totally doable with patience. A cheap plastic cutting board from Walmart or Amazon works well as does the wood. Use a fine file to help you see the high and low spots while you are working on all that trim. Do you have the stuff you need to polish the stainless?
Yes, I purchased a HF dual wheel polisher. I have finished one piece that had some small dents in the field and one in the body line if you will. I used a small ball peen hammer, a reshaped chisel, and other things to work them out. Had to do it more than once due to the wheel grabbing the part and throwing it into the machine stand. Lesson learned and good practice. I'm very happy with the way it turned out and the fit on the car. And now, onto the other 28 pieces. And thanks for the cutting board idea!
@@mattsteffee Sounds like you have been initiated into the polishing world. Everyone hangs one up sooner or later. When I worked at the chrome shop we had 10 HP polishers with 16-18" wheels and if you hung something up it would throw you across the room with the part. Be careful and get some thick cotton gloves to protect your hands. Not sure what wheels you are using but look up what is called a Sisal wheel. It is a very course wheel that is used first to remove the sanding scratches. Heavy polish compound and a sisal wheel will really bring your work to the next level and speed things up a lot. Not sure what size arbor you have or your HP but here is a link for some 6" wheels. a.co/d/bDsviyL Here is the polish I use as well a.co/d/gsJ3XeB Good luck!
Nice work Mark. I like the detailed videos. I learn more about the process. I have been trying to send you the link on the protective window film I use but every time I try to send the link my comment disappears. I'm just going to tell you what it is and see if that works. The brand I use is made by "Surface Shields" and its just called "window protective film". I can't speak as to the quality of other brands but this is what I have used on my commercial construction projects for many years. It comes off cleanly after being in the sun for well over a month. I also use it on my polished aluminum parts with no problem with corrosion. It comes in really big rolls so it's pretty much a one time buy. The roll I'm using in my shop is 7 years old and is fine.
Hi Roy, how is it going? When you are building shape into sheet metal the bag works great but in this case it would give to much allowing me to overshoot. The wood gives a good firm base to hammer against but gives enough to stop me from stretching the panel. Instead of the C clamp a shot bag and careful hammering would work great to get the dent started though.
Thanks for sharing your methods on how to approach things Mark. I'll always learn something!
Thanks Doug. How are you doing lately?
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Pretty good for the most part. I'll get results of my biopsy next week.
Thanks Mark. Great detail on how to massage metal.
Thanks, I am always learning as I go.
Thanks for the excellent tutorial. Mine also got busted in the nose. I need to do the same with mine. Going to buy myself a new hammer too.
@@RonWatson-b6u Thanks Ron. That nose sticks out right with the bumper and takes the first blow.
I found a couple of pretty cool hammers on Amazon and put the links in the description. Bought one for myself 😁
Looking good Mark.
Thanks, I appreciate that. Pretty much ran out of dents to take out so blocking and filling isn't far off...
"...and some patience...." LOTS of patience.
@@JimN696 Something I had very little of as a youngster. I walk away plenty of times, it always seems to get easier when I take a quick break. I do way more thinking these days than hammering.
I don't have a TIG welder, but I use a copper backing bar for any MIG welds where I can fit a copper backing bar in place
The TIG weld is softer but a MIG works really well. I use a piece of 1/2" copper pipe I spilt down the middle, hammered it flat and bend it to conform to whatever I need backed up. MIG doesn't care as much as TIG as far as impurities go but it seemed to work pretty well. I can use all the help I can get 😁
Attention to the details. Really enjoyed this one, Mark. I'm in the process of dent removal and polishing of the stainless trim on Babs (54 Buick), so I took your advice on wood from an earlier video. Helped a lot. I also practiced on some spare pieces.
Stainless trim is tough to do but totally doable with patience. A cheap plastic cutting board from Walmart or Amazon works well as does the wood. Use a fine file to help you see the high and low spots while you are working on all that trim. Do you have the stuff you need to polish the stainless?
Yes, I purchased a HF dual wheel polisher. I have finished one piece that had some small dents in the field and one in the body line if you will. I used a small ball peen hammer, a reshaped chisel, and other things to work them out. Had to do it more than once due to the wheel grabbing the part and throwing it into the machine stand. Lesson learned and good practice. I'm very happy with the way it turned out and the fit on the car. And now, onto the other 28 pieces. And thanks for the cutting board idea!
@@mattsteffee Sounds like you have been initiated into the polishing world. Everyone hangs one up sooner or later. When I worked at the chrome shop we had 10 HP polishers with 16-18" wheels and if you hung something up it would throw you across the room with the part. Be careful and get some thick cotton gloves to protect your hands. Not sure what wheels you are using but look up what is called a Sisal wheel. It is a very course wheel that is used first to remove the sanding scratches. Heavy polish compound and a sisal wheel will really bring your work to the next level and speed things up a lot. Not sure what size arbor you have or your HP but here is a link for some 6" wheels. a.co/d/bDsviyL
Here is the polish I use as well a.co/d/gsJ3XeB
Good luck!
Nice work mark.
Thanks Tim. I am getting better at it little by little.
I would say that it is top notch.
@@Timchevelle-i5r I appreciate that.
Nice work Mark. I like the detailed videos. I learn more about the process. I have been trying to send you the link on the protective window film I use but every time I try to send the link my comment disappears. I'm just going to tell you what it is and see if that works. The brand I use is made by "Surface Shields" and its just called "window protective film". I can't speak as to the quality of other brands but this is what I have used on my commercial construction projects for many years. It comes off cleanly after being in the sun for well over a month. I also use it on my polished aluminum parts with no problem with corrosion. It comes in really big rolls so it's pretty much a one time buy. The roll I'm using in my shop is 7 years old and is fine.
Found it thanks! Yeah links can cause a comment to get blocked. Emailing me is best.
Protecting all the hard work is the most important thing.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I'm glad you found it. I didn't want you to think I blew you off on sending it to you.
@@lazyhoundracing9621 Found their site then checked Amazon, they had a few different companies offering similar products.
Thanks again
Would a leather shot bag be better for supporting your panel while you're hammering it, instead of the plywood?
Hi Roy, how is it going? When you are building shape into sheet metal the bag works great but in this case it would give to much allowing me to overshoot. The wood gives a good firm base to hammer against but gives enough to stop me from stretching the panel. Instead of the C clamp a shot bag and careful hammering would work great to get the dent started though.