This video is excellent, and your channel is great. I just replaced the intake manifold and gasket on 2000 XJ. My rpm was 3500 at start up. Cracked manifold. After repairs it’s a gentle 800 rpm. Tips from my struggles: mark your bottom bolt holes for reference, I used a tape measure with sharpie marks stretched along the header. Wished too late that I had a 3/8 torque wrench capable of 25 ft pounds, the 1/2 inch torque wrench is cumbersome, also the nubs on my 1/2 inch extensions were too large/tall to get sockets lined up on bottom bolts; I couldn’t get a 1/2 inch swivel to line up with top bolts either. My 3/8 extensions had clearance. So whatever extensions in the video perhaps. I cracked one of the washers on torque sequence, had to get a few from salvage. Lubricate washers with high temp grease, between bolt head and washer which is a greasy mess to finger tighten. It’s easier than you would assume to misalign the intake manifold ~ be sure the dowels line up before torquing. An inspection camera ($90) was very useful on this, for lining up socket/bolt and for checking for gaps in mating surface. For realigning the exhaust manifolds: a jack underneath is useful, i also needed two ratcheting tow straps to manipulate exhaust manifolds back into place. Save your old gasket to protect header when realigning exhaust manifolds then slip the new gasket in. I had to disconnect the front exhaust manifold from down pipe to remove it from header, hacksawed both rusty bolts so that was fun. Consider ordering exhaust flange hardware. The Mopar gasket: the humps face outwards. I waited like 5 weeks for it but it’s oem factory and it worked well for me. Also if you’re leaving manifolds disconnected between rounds, spray cylinders and valves with wd40 to avoid rust. You can do it.
Tools needed....... 15mm socket 13mm socket 10mm socket 10mm wrench 9/16 socket Deep 9/16 socket 3/8 swivel 3 inch ext 6 inch ext 10 inch ext 3/8 drive socket wrench (i also used a 1/2 inch drive with a 3/8 adapter for the extra torque) Flat head screwdriver Fuel line release tool. 9/16 swivel socket might help !!new exhaust flange bolts and nuts!! Thank you so much for your skill, sir. Removing the bottom bolts from the top side was so easy with your instruction. I will say that bolt #5 is easy to see from underneath on a lifted Jeep TJ when getting it started with fingers. 1/2 inch torque wrench was almost to big. It's probably easier with 3/8. Need a deep 9/16 socket for 6 and 7. Torque 2 lbs past with swivel and 6in or more extension. Before starting the engine after the replacement, cycle the key to prime the fuel system. Other than that, it was a breeze. Thanks to you, of course.
THANK YOU! Just did my 97' TJ with you riding shotgun on here. Some big differences in clearances but this was invaluable in getting it done right the first time. My Jeep has not run this well in years.
Absolutely the best, most informative, and diagram-filled youtube instructional video i’ve ever seen. Thanks for letting us know the rear bolt is only for the exhaust. That just saved me 2 hours of work.
I bought a pnp'd 99+ intake manifold and a Banks Power exhaust manifold for my 98 XJ 4.0. I was going to look for a video on how to do this and this came up in my recommended videos right away. Thanks for doing this for us in the Jeep 4.0 community. I used your video to install the Grand Cherokee 23.5 gas tank replacing my 15 gallon tank. The gas tank install worked without a hitch.
Heya before you throw the 99+ intake on a 98, I'm not so certain the ports on the head will necessarily match up to the newer style intake. You may need to replace the entire cylinder head to make any real power difference because of this
@@WAEMIDIV I have a 00-01 intake on my 98 head with no issues. The biggest pain is going to be the vacuum lines for him. Now I put a 98 head in an 01 jeep so I didn’t have an issue. But a 00-01 manifold on a 98 will take some engineering to get all the vacuum lines hooked up. The intake ports are in the exact same position on both heads
Great video, Waemid. 👍 I'm glad to see you got a sponsor for this video! Your video skills are continuing to improve, and I will use emanualsonline the next time I need a piece of info for my Cherokee that isn't in my Haynes. (My 2000 Cherokee was originally used as fire chief vehicle, so it's in pretty good shape and surprisingly clean for it's age; it even still has the factory skid plate and the blanket-thing above the skid plate.)
Thank you sir. I was mindboggled about how I'm supposed to get to those lower manifold bolts, let alone torque them after reinstalling, without removing the engine or head with it still attached.
Brother you saved me time and money in more ways than one! Keep up the great work, you are way better than this Chilton manual 👍 It was awesome not having to struggle to find the bolts and spend an hour figuring out the right extensions or disassembling the entire front end to find 4 bolts
Just did this over the weekend because of an exhaust leak ticking and I'm finishing up now. I took them off the precats and looked them over and couldn't see any cracks... I hope it was just the gasket was old or the manifold to precats got loose somewhere. I really hope when I turn it on I don't hear the same leak I was trying to find lol. Thanks for the tip on putting the lower bolts in before the intake!
Man, this was such a good, and informative video. I wish it had been around 6 months ago when I shattered my intake like my ex shattered my self-esteem, and had to replace it.
I really enjoyed this video as I'm getting ready to do this on my 2001 Jeep Wrangler and I do love the and I do love the fact that you people just don't give two as mentioned in the video I laughed like hell when I
Great job! But you must know that if you torque it using a swivel for tightening a bolt in an angle that will be completely different from any other bolts torquing.
Hey I was hoping UA-cam allowed us to directly message. I have an obscure question as I am trying to take the easiest route of deduction before doing the manifold gasket. Does that e-manual contain resistance values for what a nominal temperature value would be at the coolant temperature sensor? 🙏 if your budding knowledge could please help id muchly appreciate
Well I don't know what the coolant sensor would have to do with the intake manifold, but the manual doesn't seem to have resistance values for it. It usually just has stuff like "if it's bad, it might do this"
@@WAEMIDIV eh it could keep the idle raised, and I cracked the plastic on that sensor and I can't find a vacuum leak or even really a sign of the manifold leaking (with spray) so I was thinking if it was simple enough to plug in the right resistance I'd cross that off quickly
I like your videos, very helpful thank you. I have a 2000 XJ 4.0 Can you tell me what the 3 smaller vacuum lines on side of intake manifold go to? Rear, middle, front? Thanks!
Rear one is for the heater controls and cruise control, which also routes to the vacuum reservoir Center one is routes to the EVAP Purge valve, and carries fuel vapor from the charcoal canister into the engine Front one is for the EVAP Leak Detection pump, which periodically tests the emissions system for leaks. I have a separate video explaining how all that works too
Is there anyway to swap the '01 exhaust manifold to the -'99 single piped one? I am considering doing this but exhaust header might be junk? Not sure.. Yours seems as rusted as mine.. Do you think it would be possible to do 2 split flange repairs for double connection at bottom of headers to top of dumb Y-pipe pre cats? I've already done a split flange from bottom of Y-pipe to mid pipe.. it's ok at best. Thanks in advance 👍
While it is possible, it is detrimental, because the exhaust ports on the cylinder head also changed with the manifold redesign. So using a 2000+ exhaust on a 1999- XJ will mean the ports won't line up, which will make the engine run inefficiently (less power and less MPG) but it will still run.
Good video Waemid, having had to do the head gasket on my 01 3 separate times i was quite familiar with the process and glad you mentioned just about everything I learned on those harrowing journies lol. I will state though, and give you a little shit, the 0331 head is problematic, mine warped or formed a hairline crack from idling too long and no head should do that by default. have never managed to do the same thing with the 0630 but that may be luck but i doubt it. biggest thing i have to thank you for is the bolt trick, the half turn is what i was missing when doing mine so i just struggled for 3 hours getting #5 on. still hate whoever invented this combo bolt pattern though, it sucks, did that each time too XD. I will give you a tip if you do need to replace your head though at some point, cut that last head bolt short on the back right hand side when looking at the engine. if you dont plan on pulling it or lifting the engine with a hoist, the firewall will get in the way of every swivel, socket and extension you have and you will not be able to get that bolt off. I have even pounded the firewall in to no avail, just cut it so you can get a short socket on there, trust me. its not worth the time and effort any other way, ive done it 3 times now, next time im getting an angle grinder XD otherwise wonderful video, I did not see any cruse on your car, do you plan on putting that in? with all these amazing road trips you take, it might be worth getting that in so you can rest your foot a little while driving on the highways. keep up the good work and keep rolling!
I do have a Cylinder Head replacement video in the works, although my 0331 head isn't cracked (yet) I know they are very prone to it. I've seen one fail at ~180,000 on my friend's XJ from the previous owner overheating it. I saw the inside of that engine and what the coolant did to the oil passages, and it wasn't good. We spent 3 days cleaning it all out and now she runs ok. Hopefully, I'll have the money and time to replace the head on mime before it cracks, but I find they only crack if they're overheated. I also do have a clever trick regarding that last corner head bolt, you can use a cut piece of rubber hose and put it around the bolt to act as a really thick washer, holding the threads just above the block and the whole head can then scoot forward and come free - no pounding or grinding required! I'll show it in the video of course This Jeep does have Cruise control, I swapped that in, and have a video on that. I believe you are thinking of the transmission kickdown cable - this truck is a manual and doesn't have said cable, but I do have Cruise!
19:19 My 2000 Classic only has two vacuum lines here. Took it off a while back and don't remember it being capped. Can anyone confirm wether or not I'm missing a line. I cannot find anything that goes there. Thanks!
@tmmyjay The front line is for the EVAP system which is only on California Emissions equipped vehicles, which your Jeep may not have. If there's no vacuum line, there should just be a cap on it. If you can't find a cap, just use some tape that won't melt
@@WAEMIDIV Thank you! The Jeep was in ca before I bought it, but there's just nothing that I can plug in to that front port. My Son has a 2001 and the tube that's plugged into his does not exist on my XJ. I'll cap it and hope for the best.
Wow I was very far off on the torque down pattern when I did my manifold. Oh well. 45k miles later, it's still doing fine. I wish my bottom bolts were that easy to put in. Having an aftermarket stainless header with twin 3 into 1 collectors makes this a hell of a lot more difficult. I spent like 2 hours tightening those 4 bolts.
@@WAEMIDIV It is not. I don't remember the brand. It was some 170 dollar header on summit racing. It's a straight up copy of the banks header though. I bought it to make a 99 and under head work with the 2000-01 exhaust. In that regard, it's great. I don't know how much better it flows, but I did notice a slight mpg increase after doing it. I'm not sure how much of that is because of the header or the head.
@@gmurf5599bolts 1 and 2 are almost impossible to access with their design. Make sure you have a long reach ratcheting wrench. Bolt 1 you need to access from the bottom of the jeep and bolt 2 you can get from where the water pump would be. I actually haven't even started up the jeep yet since installing since I'm doing a bunch of other upgrades as well. It looked good during the install though
@johnrepko1133 You can more easily find them in junkyards, and for about lot cheaper, but I bought a new one from Dorman on RockAuto back in the day for like $150. Junkyard manifolds usually sell for around $40
Always amazing to see your videos! Quick question, when you made the axle/Tcase identification videos. Where did you find that information? Those white tables?
I made those tables myself. I spent days researching the XJ, beyond Wikipedia but scouring endless forums and documents for hours. The factory service manual, primary sources in people who actually have each certain year XJ, and similar model year changes in other Jeep vehicles all helped determine which year has what.
I have a 2000 Jeep grand Cherokee limited with the 4.0 and I’m trying to find some new headers but I seem to not be able to find a pair with the specific fit for the type of Jeep I have is there anything I can do or does a different pair fit the same on a 2000 grand Cherokee I just need help
@cj2xx42 if you're looking for an actual aftermarket header to increase power output, Banks makes one for the 2000+ XJ which would be the same part for a 2000 WJ. If you want replacement manifolds, quadratech seems to sell them, or a junkyard oughta have some. I found them in RockAuto too. www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,2000,grand+cherokee,4.0l+l6,1381407,exhaust+&+emission,exhaust+manifold,5860
Wish I had this video a year ago, blown gasket and cracked header……. Never realized it was cracked till I took it off and it ran fine before so I guess just jeep things
Mil gracias atu video yo voy a tratar de hacer ese trabajo k tu isistes le voy a canbiar el enpaque ami cheroke 97 6 silindros espero poder primeramente dios
I find a “y driver” ( the thing that has a screwdriver handle and a 45 agree y looking head. I think it’s called a door panel tool. I can never remember the name so I call it a y driver
Update. Thankfully, it was not cracked. It was just jammed up on one of the locating dowels. I've done this job on 6 different jeeps so far. First time I've messed it up. I've got it sorted now.
This is the exact noise my 02 jeep grand cherokee 4.0 wj is making, so im guessing my intake manifold needs replacing (so bummed), I'm looking for a mechanic now that can do this for me, I can't afford a shop right now. If anyone see's this that may be able to help im in the north atl, ga area
![Jeep Cherokee: CCV System & Valve Cover - How to Replace Elbow Grommets/ How it Works [‘96-’01 XJ]](/img/n.gif)
This video is excellent, and your channel is great. I just replaced the intake manifold and gasket on 2000 XJ. My rpm was 3500 at start up. Cracked manifold. After repairs it’s a gentle 800 rpm. Tips from my struggles: mark your bottom bolt holes for reference, I used a tape measure with sharpie marks stretched along the header. Wished too late that I had a 3/8 torque wrench capable of 25 ft pounds, the 1/2 inch torque wrench is cumbersome, also the nubs on my 1/2 inch extensions were too large/tall to get sockets lined up on bottom bolts; I couldn’t get a 1/2 inch swivel to line up with top bolts either. My 3/8 extensions had clearance. So whatever extensions in the video perhaps. I cracked one of the washers on torque sequence, had to get a few from salvage. Lubricate washers with high temp grease, between bolt head and washer which is a greasy mess to finger tighten. It’s easier than you would assume to misalign the intake manifold ~ be sure the dowels line up before torquing. An inspection camera ($90) was very useful on this, for lining up socket/bolt and for checking for gaps in mating surface. For realigning the exhaust manifolds: a jack underneath is useful, i also needed two ratcheting tow straps to manipulate exhaust manifolds back into place. Save your old gasket to protect header when realigning exhaust manifolds then slip the new gasket in. I had to disconnect the front exhaust manifold from down pipe to remove it from header, hacksawed both rusty bolts so that was fun. Consider ordering exhaust flange hardware. The Mopar gasket: the humps face outwards. I waited like 5 weeks for it but it’s oem factory and it worked well for me. Also if you’re leaving manifolds disconnected between rounds, spray cylinders and valves with wd40 to avoid rust. You can do it.
Bro I can see you becoming a master technician your methods are absolutely amazing
Tools needed.......
15mm socket
13mm socket
10mm socket
10mm wrench
9/16 socket
Deep 9/16 socket
3/8 swivel
3 inch ext
6 inch ext
10 inch ext
3/8 drive socket wrench (i also used a 1/2 inch drive with a 3/8 adapter for the extra torque)
Flat head screwdriver
Fuel line release tool.
9/16 swivel socket might help
!!new exhaust flange bolts and nuts!!
Thank you so much for your skill, sir. Removing the bottom bolts from the top side was so easy with your instruction. I will say that bolt #5 is easy to see from underneath on a lifted Jeep TJ when getting it started with fingers. 1/2 inch torque wrench was almost to big. It's probably easier with 3/8. Need a deep 9/16 socket for 6 and 7. Torque 2 lbs past with swivel and 6in or more extension. Before starting the engine after the replacement, cycle the key to prime the fuel system. Other than that, it was a breeze. Thanks to you, of course.
THANK YOU! Just did my 97' TJ with you riding shotgun on here. Some big differences in clearances but this was invaluable in getting it done right the first time. My Jeep has not run this well in years.
Absolutely the best, most informative, and diagram-filled youtube instructional video i’ve ever seen. Thanks for letting us know the rear bolt is only for the exhaust. That just saved me 2 hours of work.
I bought a pnp'd 99+ intake manifold and a Banks Power exhaust manifold for my 98 XJ 4.0. I was going to look for a video on how to do this and this came up in my recommended videos right away. Thanks for doing this for us in the Jeep 4.0 community. I used your video to install the Grand Cherokee 23.5 gas tank replacing my 15 gallon tank. The gas tank install worked without a hitch.
Heya before you throw the 99+ intake on a 98, I'm not so certain the ports on the head will necessarily match up to the newer style intake. You may need to replace the entire cylinder head to make any real power difference because of this
@@WAEMIDIV I have a 00-01 intake on my 98 head with no issues. The biggest pain is going to be the vacuum lines for him. Now I put a 98 head in an 01 jeep so I didn’t have an issue. But a 00-01 manifold on a 98 will take some engineering to get all the vacuum lines hooked up. The intake ports are in the exact same position on both heads
Great video, Waemid. 👍
I'm glad to see you got a sponsor for this video! Your video skills are continuing to improve, and I will use emanualsonline the next time I need a piece of info for my Cherokee that isn't in my Haynes. (My 2000 Cherokee was originally used as fire chief vehicle, so it's in pretty good shape and surprisingly clean for it's age; it even still has the factory skid plate and the blanket-thing above the skid plate.)
Nice video👌🏻 most in-depth video I’ve seen on the 4.0 intake and exhaust removal. Thanks so much!
Thank you sir. I was mindboggled about how I'm supposed to get to those lower manifold bolts, let alone torque them after reinstalling, without removing the engine or head with it still attached.
Brother you saved me time and money in more ways than one! Keep up the great work, you are way better than this Chilton manual 👍 It was awesome not having to struggle to find the bolts and spend an hour figuring out the right extensions or disassembling the entire front end to find 4 bolts
Just did this over the weekend because of an exhaust leak ticking and I'm finishing up now. I took them off the precats and looked them over and couldn't see any cracks... I hope it was just the gasket was old or the manifold to precats got loose somewhere. I really hope when I turn it on I don't hear the same leak I was trying to find lol. Thanks for the tip on putting the lower bolts in before the intake!
Amazing video. Love your blend of exclusive information with great sense of humor 👌
I love the enthusiasm and overall confidence in what you do. Truly I relate to you love the video 🎯
Man, this was such a good, and informative video. I wish it had been around 6 months ago when I shattered my intake like my ex shattered my self-esteem, and had to replace it.
ᴏᴏᴏᴏᴏᴏᴏᴏᴏᴏᴏᴏʜ ᴛʜᴇ ᴇx ʀᴏᴀsᴛs ᴀʀᴇ sᴛᴇᴀᴍɪɴ'
HOLY FK even the extension combination on screen LEGEND
Awesome video man, I'm needing to do do my exhaust manifold. Didn't even realize there is a torque sequence for that.
Dude super excellent video👌🏼 To the details, info, footage, narration and commentary😆👌🏼
Excellent video sir. Thank you for posting this. I've got to redo my entire exhaust system and this was the part of it I needed to know how to do.
I really enjoyed this video as I'm getting ready to do this on my 2001 Jeep Wrangler and I do love the and I do love the fact that you people just don't give two as mentioned in the video I laughed like hell when I
Nice job Waemid.This video will help a lot of people.👍👍
Glow in the dark shift knob is so cool
Great job! But you must know that if you torque it using a swivel for tightening a bolt in an angle that will be completely different from any other bolts torquing.
nice detailed video 😍
have great luck
V29k in year
S10.7k
L666
C88
Epic video as always dude
you are amazing bro thanks. I recently watched your job on the rear main seal and boy that was something .
Thanks for a really detailed video.
Great timing. I'm doing this next weekend
Very good instructions!!!
Thank You! Really good info.
Great video as always!
Another great video
Bro amazing content, love you
Hey I was hoping UA-cam allowed us to directly message. I have an obscure question as I am trying to take the easiest route of deduction before doing the manifold gasket. Does that e-manual contain resistance values for what a nominal temperature value would be at the coolant temperature sensor? 🙏 if your budding knowledge could please help id muchly appreciate
Well I don't know what the coolant sensor would have to do with the intake manifold, but the manual doesn't seem to have resistance values for it. It usually just has stuff like "if it's bad, it might do this"
@@WAEMIDIV eh it could keep the idle raised, and I cracked the plastic on that sensor and I can't find a vacuum leak or even really a sign of the manifold leaking (with spray) so I was thinking if it was simple enough to plug in the right resistance I'd cross that off quickly
I like your videos, very helpful thank you.
I have a 2000 XJ 4.0
Can you tell me what the 3 smaller vacuum lines on side of intake manifold go to? Rear, middle, front? Thanks!
Rear one is for the heater controls and cruise control, which also routes to the vacuum reservoir
Center one is routes to the EVAP Purge valve, and carries fuel vapor from the charcoal canister into the engine
Front one is for the EVAP Leak Detection pump, which periodically tests the emissions system for leaks. I have a separate video explaining how all that works too
Is there anyway to swap the '01 exhaust manifold to the -'99 single piped one? I am considering doing this but exhaust header might be junk? Not sure.. Yours seems as rusted as mine.. Do you think it would be possible to do 2 split flange repairs for double connection at bottom of headers to top of dumb Y-pipe pre cats? I've already done a split flange from bottom of Y-pipe to mid pipe.. it's ok at best. Thanks in advance 👍
While it is possible, it is detrimental, because the exhaust ports on the cylinder head also changed with the manifold redesign. So using a 2000+ exhaust on a 1999- XJ will mean the ports won't line up, which will make the engine run inefficiently (less power and less MPG) but it will still run.
Good video Waemid, having had to do the head gasket on my 01 3 separate times i was quite familiar with the process and glad you mentioned just about everything I learned on those harrowing journies lol. I will state though, and give you a little shit, the 0331 head is problematic, mine warped or formed a hairline crack from idling too long and no head should do that by default. have never managed to do the same thing with the 0630 but that may be luck but i doubt it. biggest thing i have to thank you for is the bolt trick, the half turn is what i was missing when doing mine so i just struggled for 3 hours getting #5 on. still hate whoever invented this combo bolt pattern though, it sucks, did that each time too XD.
I will give you a tip if you do need to replace your head though at some point, cut that last head bolt short on the back right hand side when looking at the engine. if you dont plan on pulling it or lifting the engine with a hoist, the firewall will get in the way of every swivel, socket and extension you have and you will not be able to get that bolt off. I have even pounded the firewall in to no avail, just cut it so you can get a short socket on there, trust me. its not worth the time and effort any other way, ive done it 3 times now, next time im getting an angle grinder XD
otherwise wonderful video, I did not see any cruse on your car, do you plan on putting that in? with all these amazing road trips you take, it might be worth getting that in so you can rest your foot a little while driving on the highways.
keep up the good work and keep rolling!
I do have a Cylinder Head replacement video in the works, although my 0331 head isn't cracked (yet) I know they are very prone to it. I've seen one fail at ~180,000 on my friend's XJ from the previous owner overheating it. I saw the inside of that engine and what the coolant did to the oil passages, and it wasn't good. We spent 3 days cleaning it all out and now she runs ok.
Hopefully, I'll have the money and time to replace the head on mime before it cracks, but I find they only crack if they're overheated.
I also do have a clever trick regarding that last corner head bolt, you can use a cut piece of rubber hose and put it around the bolt to act as a really thick washer, holding the threads just above the block and the whole head can then scoot forward and come free - no pounding or grinding required! I'll show it in the video of course
This Jeep does have Cruise control, I swapped that in, and have a video on that. I believe you are thinking of the transmission kickdown cable - this truck is a manual and doesn't have said cable, but I do have Cruise!
Video was great very informative about taking it apart I'm gonna e using this video for mine but for the back 02 sensorcause I can reach it
Awsome job
thank you very much
EXELENTE VIDEO
19:19 My 2000 Classic only has two vacuum lines here. Took it off a while back and don't remember it being capped. Can anyone confirm wether or not I'm missing a line. I cannot find anything that goes there. Thanks!
@tmmyjay The front line is for the EVAP system which is only on California Emissions equipped vehicles, which your Jeep may not have. If there's no vacuum line, there should just be a cap on it. If you can't find a cap, just use some tape that won't melt
@@WAEMIDIV Thank you! The Jeep was in ca before I bought it, but there's just nothing that I can plug in to that front port. My Son has a 2001 and the tube that's plugged into his does not exist on my XJ. I'll cap it and hope for the best.
Nice shifter ball, dude)
Man I'm kinda upset at myself for not getting one earlier. I love it
Wow I was very far off on the torque down pattern when I did my manifold. Oh well. 45k miles later, it's still doing fine. I wish my bottom bolts were that easy to put in. Having an aftermarket stainless header with twin 3 into 1 collectors makes this a hell of a lot more difficult. I spent like 2 hours tightening those 4 bolts.
Do you have a Banks header? If so how do you like it
@@WAEMIDIV It is not. I don't remember the brand. It was some 170 dollar header on summit racing. It's a straight up copy of the banks header though. I bought it to make a 99 and under head work with the 2000-01 exhaust. In that regard, it's great. I don't know how much better it flows, but I did notice a slight mpg increase after doing it. I'm not sure how much of that is because of the header or the head.
@@WAEMIDIV Ill be installing a banks header in mine next weekend. I'll let you know how it is
@@Bdoncford Any updates?
@@gmurf5599bolts 1 and 2 are almost impossible to access with their design. Make sure you have a long reach ratcheting wrench. Bolt 1 you need to access from the bottom of the jeep and bolt 2 you can get from where the water pump would be. I actually haven't even started up the jeep yet since installing since I'm doing a bunch of other upgrades as well. It looked good during the install though
Hello where did you buy your new intake manifold? Because I cracked mine.ty
@johnrepko1133 You can more easily find them in junkyards, and for about lot cheaper, but I bought a new one from Dorman on RockAuto back in the day for like $150. Junkyard manifolds usually sell for around $40
Always amazing to see your videos! Quick question, when you made the axle/Tcase identification videos. Where did you find that information? Those white tables?
I made those tables myself. I spent days researching the XJ, beyond Wikipedia but scouring endless forums and documents for hours. The factory service manual, primary sources in people who actually have each certain year XJ, and similar model year changes in other Jeep vehicles all helped determine which year has what.
I have a 2000 Jeep grand Cherokee limited with the 4.0 and I’m trying to find some new headers but I seem to not be able to find a pair with the specific fit for the type of Jeep I have is there anything I can do or does a different pair fit the same on a 2000 grand Cherokee I just need help
w h a t
@@WAEMIDIV basically I can find a pair of headers that specifically fit a 2000 jeep grand Cherokee with a 4.0
@cj2xx42 if you're looking for an actual aftermarket header to increase power output, Banks makes one for the 2000+ XJ which would be the same part for a 2000 WJ.
If you want replacement manifolds, quadratech seems to sell them, or a junkyard oughta have some.
I found them in RockAuto too. www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,2000,grand+cherokee,4.0l+l6,1381407,exhaust+&+emission,exhaust+manifold,5860
is my cruise control cable supposed to be sloppy?
yes it is normal to have a bit of slack in it
"I literally don't give 2 shits."
Same bud, same.
Wish I had this video a year ago, blown gasket and cracked header……. Never realized it was cracked till I took it off and it ran fine before so I guess just jeep things
Mil gracias atu video yo voy a tratar de hacer ese trabajo k tu isistes le voy a canbiar el enpaque ami cheroke 97 6 silindros espero poder primeramente dios
I find a “y driver” ( the thing that has a screwdriver handle and a 45 agree y looking head. I think it’s called a door panel tool. I can never remember the name so I call it a y driver
You do not have to go through all that work to replace that gasket.This guy makes things way more complicated than they need to be
Pretty sure I cracked my intake somewhere underneath. 😂 I'm getting faster at taking these off though.
Update. Thankfully, it was not cracked. It was just jammed up on one of the locating dowels. I've done this job on 6 different jeeps so far. First time I've messed it up. I've got it sorted now.
WOAH
this dude
Extensions period will throw off the torque wrench just saying.
yes
Not by any meaningful amount. you could have a 3 foot extension and it might throw it off by an inch pound.
@WAEMID IV that was a question I was just stating a fact...lol.
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
This is the exact noise my 02 jeep grand cherokee 4.0 wj is making, so im guessing my intake manifold needs replacing (so bummed), I'm looking for a mechanic now that can do this for me, I can't afford a shop right now. If anyone see's this that may be able to help im in the north atl, ga area
Enjoyed your video, like your smartass humor.
Very good instructions! Love the tips too