You're right on, Steve. The control is sensing that there isn't enough load on the valve circuit. It's a poor design, though. They should have the control board issue an error code that gives you the information that the gas valve is out of range. Nice job figuring it out. That one was a real head scratcher.
How about this for a shortcut since you stock new gas valves in your truck next time just connect the wires to a new one without mounting it then give it a start if you hear it sparking you know its the gas valve. A little Monday Morning Quarterback Next Level Mama!
Good find on the problem, the gas valve and ignitor are energized at the same time. The coil drawing high ohms like that causing the board to drop out on the spark circuit. Very interesting video.
I lost my board and thermostat on Thanksgiving…not sure which one took the other out. 4 year old Trane with very expensive Trane communicating thermostat…new board would only fire with thermostat bypassed 🤦🏻♂️. Ended up trashing Trane thermostat and went with Ecobee. Excellent unit at 1/3 price of Trane XL1050
Hey Stephen you are a very good technician and I think I'm a pretty good technician too but my grandfather did it for 65 years and he said you learn something new everyday
Nice catch Steve, every once and a while the real issue eludes you till you go a bit deeper .... nice to see you still keep an open mind on stuff ... when Michelangelo was old and famous people would constantly lavish him with praise and he was known to smile and politely say "I'm still learning"
These modern systems can be a pain for sure. My guess is that the control board did not sense a load on it from the gas valve and that made it go to a type of shut down mode.
I would say that the only thing to consider is what appears to be previous problem bias, that was noted when you said "maybe you got a bird in there" which was a previous problem. This may have wasted time and effort in getting to the heart of the matter. When troubleshooting bias can start to lead you down the prong path and that makes getting back on track all that more difficult. I have watched you sort out the gas valve issues much quicker and probably could have this time. I would say this one just got away from you, but you salvaged a valuable lesson. I just think you are better than that.
The best part is you might never see that again. The old Fireye E100 controls would do that with a bad gas valve. It would pull the control voltage down below 100 volts , like turning the burner switch off and it would restart the cycle.
I always say no matter how much you know you can learn something new every day that’s what I love about working on this field everyday it’s a new challenge because you never know what you will be dealing from one day to the next
It was not going to send power to the ignition because it thinks the gas valve is already open. It is part of the safety loop. Not very often that these go bad in this way, he must of had a power surge at some point which cause the coil to begin to melt, that's6 why you were getting the high reading. Good catch on that, allot of technicians would have never figured this one out.
Gas Valve is just an inductive coil relay valve. It is not going to operate if the coil resistance is 10x times specification. The resistance of the coil will minimize the current thru the coil even at rated voltage 24v and affect the inductive flux density of the coil and the plunger/armature will not operate at the reduced current level caused by excessive resistance. General rule of thumb, that physical size relay, 6-9 ohms, larger physical size ones 10-14 ohms, small physical size ones 1-5 ohms. 10%-15% tolerance.
I had a Lennox doing the same thing the other week and it ended up being the gas valve. The ignitor would glow and the gas valve would click and then click right off. Changed the valve and boom as you say "Huston we have ignition".
I have been doing this for ,. 50 years...... No skin off my balls. Gone wook on us haa haa I have been burned on the same stuff. Anyone that tells you they have not are full of shit Mama. Love your videos. Makes my day every day.
I could not really tell but, it did sound like the original GV clicked. Almost like when the PCB went to engage coil on GV current was eaten by excessive resistance. Acted like it lost its 24v from transformer then restarted. Basically power cycling itself via 24v everytime it engaged GV coil.
Good video. But anytime you’re not getting codes on that board. Always know. There is something dragging down the control circuit. Anything from a bad stat to a grounded safety device to a pinched wire or bad valve coil.
Unrelated to the issue he was having but I noticed on the new board the first dip switch isn’t set to the ON position like on the original board. I think SW1 is to set Up Flow or Down Flow. It looks like the new board is set properly for Up Flow but the old board was set to Down Flow. I assume this is upflow setup.
honest plumber??? ..... it is easier to get a honest lawyer or a used car salesperson.... or a politician who tells the truth..........others.... "you have a BAD electronic board, BAD gas valve....wiring is wet from lack of roof cap... bad filter contraption....i can fix it all" $$$.....Steve....." i learned something today....i 'am giving you a big discount" BRAVO Sir
I wouldn’t have been as happy as this guy supposedly was. He left in a bawd I didn’t need then chawged me for it. Not only that, it’s a new system that he put in a couple years ago with pawts going out already. Piece of junk.
Great job on that PITA Steve! I'd like to take that plastic cover off the gas valve and see if it was a bad solder joint or a fried solenoid coil? Safety systems work though...
Same here. I'd also like to know if one of the wires for the gas valve were going to the sparker or directly to the board. One of those situations where "safety for safety's sake" beats out KISS. Nothing wrong with the old pilot/thermocouple systems with a fail-safe in the gas valve, and if whoever killed the old valves did it because of Global Warming, that unit probably wastes more gas over its lifetime waiting for the sparker than a pilot light.
The gas valve did not click with the 1st board defiantly the board must been replaced 1st for sure, this is definitely a nee one Steve hope Rheem see this , the union came handy , wiring coming into that furnace from ye switch real sketchy good work Steve
I had my money on the board too, it would be interesting to talk to their tech support and see why that happened. if it was easy everybody would be doing it.
I had the exact same problem on a daikin RTU I changed the board and same problem disconnected the gas valve to check voltage and it started sparking so I went and told the store owner I screwed up and it was the gas valve he got all pissed off so I told him I could have lied to him and said it was both he finally approved the gas valve and unit has ran fine since.
11.45 multimeter, new valve says 6.59 M Ohm (open state) , and the old one says 81.8 K Ohm, that scope is auto range just left to de ohm, it have leter M and K or nothing just ohm. this is the 3 scales Mohm, Kohm, and ohm. to much impedance of the valve, I believe that have some smal eletronic inside the valve. cheers ... :)
Nice catch on the meter readings, Pedro! Granted, this video is only 5 days old but I love how you appear to be the only one so far that mentioned the 'M' and 'K' indicators on the meter! There's a big difference between 6,590,000 ohms and 81,800 ohms! I had a similar problem with a 10 yr old Goodman furnace that toasted a gas valve last year. The old one read 1.3K ohms and a new one read 5.6M ohms (very close to Steve's "good valve" reading of 6.59M). Later I took the old (reading 1.3K ohm) valve apart and one of the four bridge rectifier diodes was shorted which caused the 1.3K ohm reading. Literally a $.05 diode replacement restored the valve, which beat spending tens of dollars for a new one! Good eye, Pedro!
I literally had something similar yesterday no power through board to inducer on a comfort maker changed board same problem Too much resistance in old thermostat and wires no blown fuses unit would do the fan delay then automatically flash code
dont work on ruud a lot but this is a weird one. gas valve fail prevent the board heat sequence instead of the heat sequence still happen and stop at fail gas valve. I will jump that pressure switch any day for testing it. Last time I had a gas valve fail that blow up the 3 amp fuse to the circuit.
Hi Steve! Long time viewer of your videos. I really appreciate your work. I know it probably adds a lot to your day to have to set up cameras and adjust viewing angles while you’re doing all of your repair and maintenance work. I have a question for you: Could you let me know what equipment you use for your videos? I’m thinking about launching my own channel centered on my marine/ reef aquarium hobby. My first video would chronicle how I go about setting up a 500 gallon reef aquarium set up with a refugium. And I’d like to use a similar filming style to yours. Also, how many cameras do you use? And what are the details on those cameras - brand, model etc.
There was nothing wrong with your troubleshooting, shorted coil on the gas valve back feeding to the pcb. Everybody would have went to the board first then to find out the valve was bad and causing the issue. Good Repair 🤘👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
@@eddiereichel9354 A.k.a. Mr. super tech, when you’re at a customer troubleshooting and sticking to your basic troubleshooting skills that’s what you do. When you get an oddball issue that you haven’t dealt with before you will end up possibly changing a part that is not bad to figure out the next part that is bad. You’re not born with troubleshooting knowledge you have to figure it out a lot of times on your own… you know that thing called on the job training. 👍
That is the difference between a IFC and a EFT ,difference in sequence of operations. Good job Steve,and I know there was no charge for the board, right?
Steven, that was a great FIND, and how you troubleshot the Gas Valve with your meter was a treat for me to see. I enjoy you showing us the 'how to' finding the problem with you multimeter. Yeah, that wasn't just like school, it was class (get it?).
New gas valves are junk compared to years back. I’ve seen plenty of the new style crap out very prematurely. Same thing on water heaters. Thank goodness i service my own systems. I always keep parts on the shelf for my house.
Steven in regards to your truck using oil, my buddy had the same issue, dealership told him he was using the wrong oil filter and to only use GM AC /Delco filters, your GM dealership should have a service bulletin for this issue. I hope this helps you 🤷♂️
The left side valve cover need to be changed. The pcv valve in the center draws the oil and send it into the intake manifold. Dorman makes a cover that puts the pcv at the rear and stops it
My Contractor, who will not return my calls, installed a brand new Ruud High Efficency Gas Furnance in my attic. I live in Massachusetts and now I'm afraid the Heat exchange coil will freeze as the attic does not have insulation in the rafters, just the floor. The attic will get cold. I'm beyond upset with this guy and he is not returning my calls. Blown in insulation for the ceiling rafters is going to cost me $10k! Are there any other options, besides replacing this brand new furnance? I read about "change the controls to run the pump for the coil constantly when the COIL temperature (not attic temp) gets below 35 degrees, and cycle the fan as a function of the room stat." or using glycol? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
a gas furnace does not have any water in it / hot air furnace .... but the condensate drain line will freeze up and not drain i would suggest you cover it with insulation that might help maybe cover the condensate line with roll out insulation not sure how your set up is ... you might be able to put a electric heater up there when its really cold out to stop freezing ....dumb move installing that high efficiently unit in attic .. the contractor should of warned you of protectoral issues in cold weather i would not have done the job .. you should take him to small clams court .
Absolutely! Looks like a bug in the software, or maybe the board does not have current sensor. It's weird. Any modern control should have LED blinking error code in such case.
That board didn’t even have a blinking light with codes on it? I thought all new electronic boards had diagnostic lights on them to help troubleshoot. Good thing Steve also had a new gas valve with him!
Depends on the age of that board design. If it's less than 10 years old, then I blame the designer. It wouldn't surprise me either if it was some PHB cheaping out on about $0.50 worth of parts for an opto-isolator and a couple of 7-segment LEDs.
Thought your original troubleshooting was great, very strange that the board wouldnt bring on the ignitor since you would think it comes first in the sequence of events. Edit: just finished the video out and realized it was a spark instead of a HSI, makes a bit more sense now.
That was weird... Disconnecting the valve should never allow ignition to start. The board apparently has a bug in its software, and first of all, it should have a *LED* to signal *error codes* like just any modern control unit has. Current sensing should be a standard feature. Too bad there was no LED blinking the error code.
Depending on the age of that board design, it might not be the programmer or the board designer's fault. You should hear some of the folks with electronic design channels going off about bean counters and Pointy Haired Bosses telling them to cut a $0.001 part out of the design to save $100 per 10,000 units in manufacturing costs on a product that's selling for $500 per unit. Fucking MBAs.
@@DiverCTH True. Almost everywhere you look, someone's trying to reduce costs, but when safety is directly at stake, such cases should land as class action lawsuits or recalls at least. There are examples of such cases in various industries and it almost makes you like lawyers, when they are on the side of consumers.
Steven lavimonier I like your utube videos are awesome 👍👍👍👍👍😎😎😎👍
You're right on, Steve. The control is sensing that there isn't enough load on the valve circuit. It's a poor design, though. They should have the control board issue an error code that gives you the information that the gas valve is out of range. Nice job figuring it out. That one was a real head scratcher.
How about this for a shortcut since you stock new gas valves in your truck next time just connect the wires to a new one without mounting it then give it a start if you hear it sparking you know its the gas valve. A little Monday Morning Quarterback Next Level Mama!
I’ve been doing this work for 32 years and I still learn something new every day!
Glad to hear that makes me not feel so bad sometimes lol
Good find on the problem, the gas valve and ignitor are energized at the same time. The coil drawing high ohms like that causing the board to drop out on the spark circuit. Very interesting video.
I lost my board and thermostat on Thanksgiving…not sure which one took the other out. 4 year old Trane with very expensive Trane communicating thermostat…new board would only fire with thermostat bypassed 🤦🏻♂️. Ended up trashing Trane thermostat and went with Ecobee. Excellent unit at 1/3 price of Trane XL1050
Hey Stephen you are a very good technician and I think I'm a pretty good technician too but my grandfather did it for 65 years and he said you learn something new everyday
😃👍 Good Job Steve
Sometimes if gas valve shorts out it backfeeds circuit board which toasted the circuit board... not your fault
Correct 👍
Good one here.. love these real life troubleshooting videos.
Your customer sounds like a nice guy at least he has a spare good circuit board as a backup I know I would..
Happens with all the Ruud units I encounter with a Honeywell gas valve. We put in the WR valves as a replacement and don’t look back.
So, he has to pay for a board that isn’t needed?
Tricky one for sure. I was thinking the board was bad right off as well. Nice find and fix Steve.
Great diagnosing and repair man at that temperature he sure enough needed that heat working
Wow. What a tough one. Great to have an understanding customer. I remember that install video. You’re much nicer than my local GM service center.
Nice catch Steve, every once and a while the real issue eludes you till you go a bit deeper .... nice to see you still keep an open mind on stuff ... when Michelangelo was old and famous people would constantly lavish him with praise and he was known to smile and politely say "I'm still learning"
Steve I work in maintenance your videos have helped so much
These modern systems can be a pain for sure. My guess is that the control board did not sense a load on it from the gas valve and that made it go to a type of shut down mode.
Each day I wait for a new video to show up from you and each time Im so amazed it does. Love it. God bless.
I would say that the only thing to consider is what appears to be previous problem bias, that was noted when you said "maybe you got a bird in there" which was a previous problem. This may have wasted time and effort in getting to the heart of the matter. When troubleshooting bias can start to lead you down the prong path and that makes getting back on track all that more difficult. I have watched you sort out the gas valve issues much quicker and probably could have this time. I would say this one just got away from you, but you salvaged a valuable lesson. I just think you are better than that.
The best part is you might never see that again. The old Fireye E100 controls would do that with a bad gas valve. It would pull the control voltage down below 100 volts , like turning the burner switch off and it would restart the cycle.
Steven lavimonier I like when you say yee haw that's cool 👍👍👍😎😎👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😎
Hey Steve and Miss Molly! Workin’ again y’all. 👍👍
I always say no matter how much you know you can learn something new every day that’s what I love about working on this field everyday it’s a new challenge because you never know what you will be dealing from one day to the next
Steven lavimonier I like when you say Houston we hav ignition 👍👍👍👍👍😎😎😎👍😎👍
I put in a lot of those unit RUDD I have not run to this problem yet. Good one steven!!👍
It was not going to send power to the ignition because it thinks the gas valve is already open. It is part of the safety loop. Not very often that these go bad in this way, he must of had a power surge at some point which cause the coil to begin to melt, that's6 why you were getting the high reading. Good catch on that, allot of technicians would have never figured this one out.
That's what I thought some kind of power surge maybe
Another great video. Thanks for posting
Gas Valve is just an inductive coil relay valve. It is not going to operate if the coil resistance is 10x times specification. The resistance of the coil will minimize the current thru the coil even at rated voltage 24v and affect the inductive flux density of the coil and the plunger/armature will not operate at the reduced current level caused by excessive resistance. General rule of thumb, that physical size relay, 6-9 ohms, larger physical size ones 10-14 ohms, small physical size ones 1-5 ohms. 10%-15% tolerance.
Resistance of old gas valve was ~82 Meg Ohms, an open circuit. New valve 6.9 Ohms.
So what’s the normal range should the gas valve have
I had a Lennox doing the same thing the other week and it ended up being the gas valve. The ignitor would glow and the gas valve would click and then click right off. Changed the valve and boom as you say "Huston we have ignition".
I dislike unions when they are that close to the combustion chamber.
Good job working on it
I have been doing this for ,. 50 years...... No skin off my balls. Gone wook on us haa haa I have been burned on the same stuff. Anyone that tells you they have not are full of shit Mama. Love your videos. Makes my day every day.
best service man in the WORLD...........own it...
Thanks for class Steve!
I could not really tell but, it did sound like the original GV clicked. Almost like when the PCB went to engage coil on GV current was eaten by excessive resistance. Acted like it lost its 24v from transformer then restarted. Basically power cycling itself via 24v everytime it engaged GV coil.
Good video. But anytime you’re not getting codes on that board. Always know. There is something dragging down the control circuit. Anything from a bad stat to a grounded safety device to a pinched wire or bad valve coil.
Unrelated to the issue he was having but I noticed on the new board the first dip switch isn’t set to the ON position like on the original board. I think SW1 is to set Up Flow or Down Flow.
It looks like the new board is set properly for Up Flow but the old board was set to Down Flow. I assume this is upflow setup.
Good job Steve...Everyday new day when out there in field working HVAC. Can't know everything. Keep up good work
Good job Steve.
Ih Steven lavimonier 👍👍👍😎👍👍
Smart fix - learning something new on every vid - thanks
honest plumber??? ..... it is easier to get a honest lawyer or a used car salesperson.... or a politician who tells the truth..........others.... "you have a BAD electronic board, BAD gas valve....wiring is wet from lack of roof cap... bad filter contraption....i can fix it all" $$$.....Steve....." i learned something today....i 'am giving you a big discount" BRAVO Sir
Great job Steve, I’m assuming the board was covered under warranty since the furnace is less than 10 years old ?
The board probably wasn't bad.
I wouldn’t have been as happy as this guy supposedly was. He left in a bawd I didn’t need then chawged me for it. Not only that, it’s a new system that he put in a couple years ago with pawts going out already. Piece of junk.
Good thing the parts are under the 10 year warranty that saves money
Great job on that PITA Steve! I'd like to take that plastic cover off the gas valve and see if it was a bad solder joint or a fried solenoid coil? Safety systems work though...
Same here. I'd also like to know if one of the wires for the gas valve were going to the sparker or directly to the board.
One of those situations where "safety for safety's sake" beats out KISS. Nothing wrong with the old pilot/thermocouple systems with a fail-safe in the gas valve, and if whoever killed the old valves did it because of Global Warming, that unit probably wastes more gas over its lifetime waiting for the sparker than a pilot light.
Would that be covered under warranty if its that new?
Only defective parts would be covered.
The gas valve did not click with the 1st board defiantly the board must been replaced 1st for sure, this is definitely a nee one Steve hope Rheem see this , the union came handy , wiring coming into that furnace from ye switch real sketchy good work Steve
Does it matter how you put the wires back on the gas valve?
Not on single stage valves
I had my money on the board too, it would be interesting to talk to their tech support and see why that happened. if it was easy everybody would be doing it.
What were the dip switches on the board for? I think the new board was set different.
good info
I had the exact same problem on a daikin RTU I changed the board and same problem disconnected the gas valve to check voltage and it started sparking so I went and told the store owner I screwed up and it was the gas valve he got all pissed off so I told him I could have lied to him and said it was both he finally approved the gas valve and unit has ran fine since.
SO, WAS THERE NO WAY TO SEE THAT THE GAS VALVE WAS THE ISSUE BEFORE REPLACING THE BOARD?
I ran into the same problem last winter on a 4 year old rheem. However doesn’t Ruud have 10 year warranty on parts?
yes, if registered within 90 days of install
11.45 multimeter, new valve says 6.59 M Ohm (open state) , and the old one says 81.8 K Ohm, that scope is auto range just left to de ohm, it have leter M and K or nothing just ohm. this is the 3 scales Mohm, Kohm, and ohm. to much impedance of the valve, I believe that have some smal eletronic inside the valve. cheers ... :)
Nice catch on the meter readings, Pedro! Granted, this video is only 5 days old but I love how you appear to be the only one so far that mentioned the 'M' and 'K' indicators on the meter! There's a big difference between 6,590,000 ohms and 81,800 ohms!
I had a similar problem with a 10 yr old Goodman furnace that toasted a gas valve last year. The old one read 1.3K ohms and a new one read 5.6M ohms (very close to Steve's "good valve" reading of 6.59M).
Later I took the old (reading 1.3K ohm) valve apart and one of the four bridge rectifier diodes was shorted which caused the 1.3K ohm reading. Literally a $.05 diode replacement restored the valve, which beat spending tens of dollars for a new one!
Good eye, Pedro!
This was a good one Steve. Wow, that was a head scratcher for sure.
Great video
Had the same issue on a rheem ended up being a bad gas valve.
I literally had something similar yesterday no power through board to inducer on a comfort maker changed board same problem
Too much resistance in old thermostat and wires no blown fuses unit would do the fan delay then automatically flash code
Old gas valve was getting voltage from original board just not opening.
dont work on ruud a lot but this is a weird one. gas valve fail prevent the board heat sequence instead of the heat sequence still happen and stop at fail gas valve. I will jump that pressure switch any day for testing it. Last time I had a gas valve fail that blow up the 3 amp fuse to the circuit.
So, did the old board go back in or was it bad too?
Do you have to match the dip-switch settings on the new board to the old board?
Love your videos Steve
Ya I'll say that was a crazy one wow
Great vid thanks steve
Hi Steve! Long time viewer of your videos. I really appreciate your work. I know it probably adds a lot to your day to have to set up cameras and adjust viewing angles while you’re doing all of your repair and maintenance work. I have a question for you: Could you let me know what equipment you use for your videos? I’m thinking about launching my own channel centered on my marine/ reef aquarium hobby. My first video would chronicle how I go about setting up a 500 gallon reef aquarium set up with a refugium. And I’d like to use a similar filming style to yours. Also, how many cameras do you use? And what are the details on those cameras - brand, model etc.
Keep them videos coming Steve
There was nothing wrong with your troubleshooting, shorted coil on the gas valve back feeding to the pcb. Everybody would have went to the board first then to find out the valve was bad and causing the issue. Good Repair 🤘👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
@@eddiereichel9354 A.k.a. Mr. super tech, when you’re at a customer troubleshooting and sticking to your basic troubleshooting skills that’s what you do. When you get an oddball issue that you haven’t dealt with before you will end up possibly changing a part that is not bad to figure out the next part that is bad. You’re not born with troubleshooting knowledge you have to figure it out a lot of times on your own… you know that thing called on the job training. 👍
That is the difference between a IFC and a EFT ,difference in sequence of operations. Good job Steve,and I know there was no charge for the board, right?
Steven, that was a great FIND, and how you troubleshot the Gas Valve with your meter was a treat for me to see. I enjoy you showing us the 'how to' finding the problem with you multimeter. Yeah, that wasn't just like school, it was class (get it?).
so the original control board might have been good ?
should have put the old board. diagnosis by elimination . i would be pissed
I thought Rudd and Rheem have a 10 year warranty on parts? Wouldn’t it just be diagnostic and repair charge ?
Thought the same thing.
Who is Pamela Harris?
Good find
New gas valves are junk compared to years back. I’ve seen plenty of the new style crap out very prematurely. Same thing on water heaters. Thank goodness i service my own systems. I always keep parts on the shelf for my house.
You need a gas fitting license to replace it
txs for sharing...
I had the exact same problem on a 5 year old ruud as soon as igniter started it would restart turned off gas valve and igniter stayed on
Steven in regards to your truck using oil, my buddy had the same issue, dealership told him he was using the wrong oil filter and to only use GM AC /Delco filters, your GM dealership should have a service bulletin for this issue. I hope this helps you 🤷♂️
Curious as to how the wrong filter could affect oil consumption. Any idea why and how?
@@Bob.W. could be a very slow leak
@@Bob.W.
Not sure but it wasn’t leaking, it was sending oil some place else, not all oil filters are designed the same way
The left side valve cover need to be changed. The pcv valve in the center draws the oil and send it into the intake manifold. Dorman makes a cover that puts the pcv at the rear and stops it
I have the same mod GMC and it does not use any oil between changes. I use synthetic oil also.
Nice work
Show us your service truck. Looks big like a metro van or something.
First hand experience beats all that is ever told you.
My Contractor, who will not return my calls, installed a brand new Ruud High Efficency Gas Furnance in my attic. I live in Massachusetts and now I'm afraid the Heat exchange coil will freeze as the attic does not have insulation in the rafters, just the floor. The attic will get cold. I'm beyond upset with this guy and he is not returning my calls. Blown in insulation for the ceiling rafters is going to cost me $10k! Are there any other options, besides replacing this brand new furnance? I read about "change the controls to run the pump for the coil constantly when the COIL temperature (not attic temp) gets below 35 degrees, and cycle the fan as a function of the room stat." or using glycol? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
a gas furnace does not have any water in it / hot air furnace .... but the condensate drain line will freeze up and not drain i would suggest you cover it with insulation that might help maybe cover the condensate line with roll out insulation not sure how your set up is ... you might be able to put a electric heater up there when its really cold out to stop freezing ....dumb move installing that high efficiently unit in attic .. the contractor should of warned you of protectoral issues in cold weather i would not have done the job .. you should take him to small clams court .
Surprised the board didn't give some type of error code indicating that the gas valve was bad.
Yep if a safety was in effect it should have given an error code. Made me think the board and the gas valve were both bad.
Absolutely! Looks like a bug in the software, or maybe the board does not have current sensor. It's weird. Any modern control should have LED blinking error code in such case.
there was a bird in the gas valve 🦜
"It wadn't spockin" and the valve went woke! Lmao
That board didn’t even have a blinking light with codes on it? I thought all new electronic boards had diagnostic lights on them to help troubleshoot. Good thing Steve also had a new gas valve with him!
Depends on the age of that board design. If it's less than 10 years old, then I blame the designer. It wouldn't surprise me either if it was some PHB cheaping out on about $0.50 worth of parts for an opto-isolator and a couple of 7-segment LEDs.
Does 65 degrees count as freezing if in the south?
No.....no it doesn't....suck it up buttercup. Hahahahaha....just playing around
Life, we learn something new everyday.
Best guess!!!!
Customer jumped out the gas valve and burned it
That was strange , Ive never run into that problem. However, that board was good HAHAHA LOL never a DULL MOMENT
Steve, learned alot from watching the video. Must be a pain to film and try to find the problem you are dealing with ! Thanks, for the video!
That's the problem with all that electronic shit on them now! And they ain't cheap
Thought your original troubleshooting was great, very strange that the board wouldnt bring on the ignitor since you would think it comes first in the sequence of events.
Edit: just finished the video out and realized it was a spark instead of a HSI, makes a bit more sense now.
lol gas valve went flippin woke mama
What was wrong with your truck when it had a miss. Was it a injector
If your not testing your guessing !
do any residential guys politely ask the customer to step away while they troubleshoot?
That was weird... Disconnecting the valve should never allow ignition to start. The board apparently has a bug in its software, and first of all, it should have a *LED* to signal *error codes* like just any modern control unit has. Current sensing should be a standard feature. Too bad there was no LED blinking the error code.
Depending on the age of that board design, it might not be the programmer or the board designer's fault.
You should hear some of the folks with electronic design channels going off about bean counters and Pointy Haired Bosses telling them to cut a $0.001 part out of the design to save $100 per 10,000 units in manufacturing costs on a product that's selling for $500 per unit.
Fucking MBAs.
@@DiverCTH True. Almost everywhere you look, someone's trying to reduce costs, but when safety is directly at stake, such cases should land as class action lawsuits or recalls at least. There are examples of such cases in various industries and it almost makes you like lawyers, when they are on the side of consumers.