My dad was a field technician for Honeywell in the 60's, 70's, 80's and into the 90's. One of my vivid memories of childhood was seeing his oscilloscope in the trunk of his car or in the basement if he was working on something. Honeywell got bought out in the 90's and my dad was forced into early retirement but when he left they wouldn't let him take or purchase from them his beloved oscilloscope. My dad and I did have the most healthy relationship but it always made me a little sad for him that some pig in an office with no concept of reality denied him a chance to hold on to something that was vital to his way of life for decades.
You'd think some mid management guy or something would have just gave it to him, then acted like it got missplaced or something. That's what I would have done.
the idea of the sense lines is to compensate for the resistance of the wiring harness; it monitors voltage on the game board itself, so if there's any voltage drop in the wiring, it will raise the output voltage to compensate. those 10 ohm resistors are designed to keep it running if the sense lines were to become disconnected, and to stop the output voltage from raising to ludicrous chip popping levels. defeating the sense lines and just manually cranking the output up to get the correct voltage on the game board is one way to go; for these old TTL boards the current didn't change a lot so this works fine. the sense lines are useful if the loading changes, since it will maintain the correct voltage if the supply is heavily loaded or lightly loaded.
Ron, on the scope screen, the “retrace” lines between displayed lines would normally be erased by the display intensity control. When the computer wants to move the beam without leaving a graphic trace, it will drive the dynamic intensity to zero. That allows the beam to be moved to the start of the next line without leaving anything visible. See if your scope has a “Z” or “intensity” input, it’s usually on the back. Then you could hook that to the beam intensity control and get a correct looking display on the scope screen.
R29 is shown on the schematic as 10 ohms. It looks like whoever designed that power supply had learned from the mistakes of previous sense circuit designers. If the sense wiring is all present and correct then the 10 ohm resistor will have little effect, if there is a problem in the sense wiring then said resistor will stop the voltage going crazy.
Extremely hard game that's super bad ass! Some of the best side art ever! I had a super nice one but traded it to my buddy recently. UGH WHY did they stick the Alan1 stuff in it? Hope they kept all the old boards. 6100 is a damned simple monitor to fix and very reliable once done up right.
I've noticed you reference ElectroBoom, yet you haven't made a big deal about the "Full Bridge Rectifier!" when you see it in a schematic. But maybe that's a deep cut of his. ("Not some puny single diode rectifier!") Anyway, I managed to get my Gravitar working just fine with no flyback, and no CRT, and I hadn't even heard of this game before I saw this video! Because of you, I've discovered MAME (Multiple Arcade Machine Emulator) and found the ROMs so I can try to get every game you work on, so I can play it myself. Getting MAME and finding working versions of the game ROMs is not for the faint of heart. Full geekage is required to get it working!
Up crapacitor creek with out any microfarads to give! 😅 🤔 Or was it up defecation estuary without visible means of locomotion? 😛 Either way I aint scared, Ron's got it covered! 🤠
I'd really like a color vector machine like Tempest myself. But they're so damn hard to find here! And if you do, they're usually in rather bad condition for an exorbitant price. :-(
I know why you couldn't make videos... Inability to say "C'mon people!". I'm glad you don't feel unwell, and my wife says the gravely voice is sexy. Then again, she married me so don't trust her judgement! Welcome back 😉
Power Supply.
Power Supply.
Power Supply.
Now I'm going to watch the video. 🤗
Almost every game you open I see "Brady Dist". Those guys were everywhere.
"i've had it with these micro farad snakes on this micro farad plane!"
My dad was a field technician for Honeywell in the 60's, 70's, 80's and into the 90's. One of my vivid memories of childhood was seeing his oscilloscope in the trunk of his car or in the basement if he was working on something. Honeywell got bought out in the 90's and my dad was forced into early retirement but when he left they wouldn't let him take or purchase from them his beloved oscilloscope. My dad and I did have the most healthy relationship but it always made me a little sad for him that some pig in an office with no concept of reality denied him a chance to hold on to something that was vital to his way of life for decades.
You'd think some mid management guy or something would have just gave it to him, then acted like it got missplaced or something. That's what I would have done.
the idea of the sense lines is to compensate for the resistance of the wiring harness; it monitors voltage on the game board itself, so if there's any voltage drop in the wiring, it will raise the output voltage to compensate. those 10 ohm resistors are designed to keep it running if the sense lines were to become disconnected, and to stop the output voltage from raising to ludicrous chip popping levels. defeating the sense lines and just manually cranking the output up to get the correct voltage on the game board is one way to go; for these old TTL boards the current didn't change a lot so this works fine. the sense lines are useful if the loading changes, since it will maintain the correct voltage if the supply is heavily loaded or lightly loaded.
Ron, on the scope screen, the “retrace” lines between displayed lines would normally be erased by the display intensity control. When the computer wants to move the beam without leaving a graphic trace, it will drive the dynamic intensity to zero. That allows the beam to be moved to the start of the next line without leaving anything visible.
See if your scope has a “Z” or “intensity” input, it’s usually on the back. Then you could hook that to the beam intensity control and get a correct looking display on the scope screen.
Glad you're back. Can't be yelling at Joe till you lose your voice, for his "It's Broke" notes.
Loving it! Thank you for taking the trouble to film that, you didn't have to do that!
Alan-1 - nice Tron reference! Also, it's awesome to see modern-day support for these older games!
Great video Ronnie, Glad you are feeling better. Powe Supply is everything. Always amazing at reading those charts. See you on the next video Ronnie.
Thanks Frank, hope you're doing well!
Thank you for going into this game. It is very interesting.
@3:25 so what you're saying if you do say it the phrase, that the excrement will hit the air velocity accelerator. GOT IT!
Love your videos! ❤ Thank you for providing such great content!
Ron is the best!
Great video
Glad you are better
Joe did a great job filling in
But you were missed
Glad you are well
Enjoy your channel and appreciate your repair skills. When will that Rock-ola jukebox in the video background be up for repair?
Not sure yet
Welcome back Ronnie. …Sounding good, and doing a great Sherlock Holmes on this game.
6.63 volts at the one point in the video. If only there were 0.03 volts more... 6.66 volts. LOL
R29 is shown on the schematic as 10 ohms.
It looks like whoever designed that power supply had learned from the mistakes of previous sense circuit designers. If the sense wiring is all present and correct then the 10 ohm resistor will have little effect, if there is a problem in the sense wiring then said resistor will stop the voltage going crazy.
Extremely hard game that's super bad ass! Some of the best side art ever! I had a super nice one but traded it to my buddy recently.
UGH WHY did they stick the Alan1 stuff in it? Hope they kept all the old boards. 6100 is a damned simple monitor to fix and very reliable once done up right.
IT'S BROKE.❤️
JOE, what is that Vertical output transistor & horizontal output transistor deflection board called? that is mounted on the side of the cabinet.
Up Schmitt's Creek...
Is there a follow up to this video that shows it up and running with the monitor repaired?
I've noticed you reference ElectroBoom, yet you haven't made a big deal about the "Full Bridge Rectifier!" when you see it in a schematic. But maybe that's a deep cut of his. ("Not some puny single diode rectifier!") Anyway, I managed to get my Gravitar working just fine with no flyback, and no CRT, and I hadn't even heard of this game before I saw this video! Because of you, I've discovered MAME (Multiple Arcade Machine Emulator) and found the ROMs so I can try to get every game you work on, so I can play it myself. Getting MAME and finding working versions of the game ROMs is not for the faint of heart. Full geekage is required to get it working!
Finally, you decapitated the Fluke!
Up crapacitor creek with out any microfarads to give! 😅
🤔 Or was it up defecation estuary without visible means of locomotion? 😛
Either way I aint scared, Ron's got it covered! 🤠
Hey Ron!!
I'd really like a color vector machine like Tempest myself. But they're so damn hard to find here! And if you do, they're usually in rather bad condition for an exorbitant price. :-(
High voltages is normal because everything is disconnected. Power supply is not loaded.
T-Shirt Idea. #gotflyback
You know, you could just talk about the TV show "Schitt's Creek".
UA-cam doesn’t want cussing in the first 30 or 60 seconds, I believe. Once you pass that mark you should be good to go!
Oh, have one.. sound, no video. Now just all those nice new parts.. sigh.
You are the arcade detective
I'm glad to see you back again, MasatoKa!
Oxidation I believe is what you’re trying to say
I know why you couldn't make videos... Inability to say "C'mon people!".
I'm glad you don't feel unwell, and my wife says the gravely voice is sexy. Then again, she married me so don't trust her judgement!
Welcome back 😉
Fancy bad word 😮
FUST!
Yodelayheehoo
it has the avg , angry video game nerd