Hi. Just watched this video. I've been wanting to get into mold making. But I want to mold a large windmill blade. It looks like that stuff would work great for that type of piece! I don't feel like spending $35 for each blade! Then I can maybe make my own Nacell, columns and collars and have truck loads or train car loads! I'm also supporting your channel. Roy H
Hello Scott, thanks for the comments, I do appreciate feedback of course. Yea, there are a few things in the video's I make some dont really care for and well, there they are. I would suggest if they are annoying or, you simply dont like them you may not want to watch any more of them, some of them the the music is to loud and may not be your style of music either, some distracting things in these video's. There are several hundred more great video's out there if your into model railroads that are much better than mine, Hope you can locate them, they are free to.
I made a comment on a DPM video you did. I am new to N scale and R.R. model building. YOUR videos have all kinds of simple info that I never even thought about ! Thanks for that for the beginner ! At 7:40, your barriers look Scale ! You don't have a good edge or corner on any of them. In the field, the only ones that are nice looking are the ones we got this morning. We beat the crap out of 'em ! After one day, NONE of them are in good shape. Yours are scale ! Maybe some spray paint here and there. An arrow in red pointing left or right, numbers on them, maybe some graffiti.
Glad to hear it, I think they look pretty good to. Before these would go on the layout, they would be dressed up more. I cant say I have ever seen any painted up with arrows and such though. Thanks for the comments.
If you slightly overfill your rectangular mold and then place the piece of acrylic you used on top of it (spray it with release), you'll get perfectly flat bottoms on your castings.
That would probably work fine if its sealed up at the joints. This molding compound was pretty thin for the most part. My housings I would say were overkill. So yes, good idea.
Great video! Useful tip for one part moulds - fill until the resin just balloons over the top, and then place a piece of thick perspex or glass on top, sprayed with release agent. Gives a perfect flat bottom to the castings every time!
Awesome, thank you, I'm looking for 1:12 bricks for an outdoor pizza oven and you were suggested, not exactly bricks but a good watch, thanks for sharing!
There are some ethical questions raised by buying parts and then recasting them. It is a good way to get yourself hated. That said. Alumilite out of Kalamazoo MI. Makes some of the best RTV molding supplies and some of the best casting resin on the market. If you want to make parts like this (perhaps from your own master) you might consider a vacuum chamber to degas your mold and resin. On the whole, I want to thank you for the wonderful videos you have been producing. Please keep it up.
Hello pmsteamrailroading, thanks so much for your comment. You have raised a good point that I to have felt so many times over the years. Casting purchased parts instead of buying more from the manufacturer. After spending endless amounts of cash on so many things over the years, I feel that casting a few of my own really isn't hurting anyone. Now, if I were to sell these parts, this would be an issue, I personally would take issue with anyone doing this. Surely this would be against the law or something. I would hope that no one would "hate" me for adding items to my own personal collection from casting. It does make one think though about the thoughts and feelings on the subject. If it is, or becomes an issue, I will remove this video from my UA-cam Channel. I have looked into a vacuum chamber before and in all, I do this to save a bit of money, the chambers are so expensive and the parts I am duplicating are really not that big of a deal I think. If, for example I wanted to duplicate and sell something of my own creation, I might then consider the money for a chamber. They are really neat, wish I had room and the money for one! :) Just looks like fun. I am glad you enjoy the video's I put up here, I do so enjoy making them and seeing and hearing the feedback just like this is so wonderful. Look forward to any other comments on any of my video's from you!
Hey Mike... Great video first of all and how you got 5 thumbs down on this one is beyond me... Could you tell me where and what brand of rubber you used? Thank you in advance and again, great video.
Hello J White, Its really incredible how that thumbs up and thumbs down work. It seems that regardless of how much time you spend or what you offer for free for people that there are always a few people out there that just hit the thumbs down, I think its the way of the world now, unhappy people I guess? The products I used in this video were made by "Hobby Time". I think this can be purchased off of Ebay. I actually found this at Michael's sometime back. It worked great but for what I see with this is that it worked better for concrete type stuff better than anything else really.
Thanks for the video, but don't want to deal with silicone you have to weigh. Tried Aluminite by eye balling the hardener and it was a disaster. Now using a 50/50 silicon type mix and my life is a lot easier.
It's hilarious! i bought the exact same supplies to start with! you might have discovered it yourself, Stewalin is more of a gypsum than a resin. it works fine for the concrete parts, but personally i would go for a proper resin for the drums, beams and toilets. Beside that, nice video! contains everything important for a one part mold. maybe explain further why you put the originals in the bottom of frame rather then sticking them on top. In addition, turn up the oven to about 50-60 Degrees to accelerate the vulcanisation!
+Morten Albertsen (Mineraleater) +Morten Albertsen (Mineraleater) Hey Morten, Thanks for the comments on the video. Yea, I did notice that it is just so natural for concrete type parts. It seemed to work fine for the others but anything concrete this is perfect stuff. I am not sure about the question on the parts placement in the mold? I placed them on the bottom of the mold because it is actually the top of the mold, once it all cures the parts are then put into the top? I dont know if that makes sense, even to me, but it all worked. I was happy with the results and for the small parts it works great. I think for anything larger I would probably have used resin. One thing I did notice, is that this really seemed to catch a lot more detail than I thought it would. It was all good though.
Mike, your model work is excellent as well as the video productions. I enjoy the music at the beginning of this particular video and would like to know where I can find the library. Thanks.
From various vendors, like Tichi. You can find much of that stuff on Ebay/Amazon now, its great. I dont even think you would need to have to make them anymore.
Thanks for the compliments, and comments. The molds are still just as flexible as they were after they were made. I have used them several times without any degradation.
Great tutorial Mike! Everything was straigt forward nothing difficult about following your isntructions. I like yor style of telling the story of the product. 5***** and two thumbs up! RT
Great video Mike first I have seen of anyone making their own molds. Did you use anything in the rubber molds to help release the parts you made? Great way to make multiple parts cheap. Wonder if there is anyplace here to get that mold making kit.
Hey! Thanks so much for your comments, much appreciated fellow Texan! :) this rubber was just a strange find for me but I do know after searching the web that several company's sell this stuff. RTV Rubber I think its called and its becoming more available as well. As far as a release agent, I didnt use anything, man, this stuff here was like using butter, it was so smooth!
Hey, Thanks John, I have since come up with a bunch of different things for making molds and stuff. I dont have enough stuff to duplicate though! Take care.
You prolly dont give a shit but if you're bored like me during the covid times then you can watch all the new movies and series on instaflixxer. I've been watching with my gf during the lockdown xD
Thats a compliment isnt it! Thank you. Jest spent a lot of time tinkering with all sorts of stuff. Hobby galore really from race cars, model planes, drag trucks etc. I have been all over the hobby stuff. Just learn things that cross over into other things, it really helps. I guess this really shows, thank you so much for the comments!
Good news, being new, you might help me think back on things I might need to know! If you think of anything that I can put together to help out let me know ok!
Weathering adds an entire new element to these models, sitting clean on the railroad they seem to me to look a bit out of place. Some of the museum ralroads that dont weather really do look good to, but I have decided to go with weathered buildings over clean new looking buildings, and two, the powders help me hide so many mistakes! lol!
Adhering to the theory that there are no "dumb questions".....:-)...What were those parts.? Kind of job-sight misc...barriers, stops, barrels Porta-Sani...stuff like that I guess.? Thank You another well done vid btw.....
Hey, thanks for the comments! The parts are HO Scale model railroad stuff. The barriers are the big concrete barriers used to devide traffic or block off an area from vehicles, you know them big concrete things you try to avoide while driving :) The porta sani's are just what they are, they are the portable restrooms seen at job sites, special functions and stuff. They are all just tiny for a model railroad. Hope this helps!
@@ModelerManMike AKA 'Jersey' or 'K' barriers. They just need to be weathered a little. Or a lot! I've never seen clean, new ones. They must be pretty durable cuz the ones they use around here look like they came over on the Mayflower. But then, concrete is kinda hard, like my noggin!
Hi. Just watched this video. I've been wanting to get into mold making. But I want to mold a large windmill blade. It looks like that stuff would work great for that type of piece! I don't feel like spending $35 for each blade! Then I can maybe make my own Nacell, columns and collars and have truck loads or train car loads! I'm also supporting your channel. Roy H
wow! great way to save yourself money right there!
I love the information, but the passing trains and other distractions cause me not to want to view anymore.
Hello Scott, thanks for the comments, I do appreciate feedback of course. Yea, there are a few things in the video's I make some dont really care for and well, there they are. I would suggest if they are annoying or, you simply dont like them you may not want to watch any more of them, some of them the the music is to loud and may not be your style of music either, some distracting things in these video's. There are several hundred more great video's out there if your into model railroads that are much better than mine, Hope you can locate them, they are free to.
I made a comment on a DPM video you did. I am new to N scale and R.R. model building. YOUR videos have all kinds of simple info that I never even thought about ! Thanks for that for the beginner ! At 7:40, your barriers look Scale ! You don't have a good edge or corner on any of them. In the field, the only ones that are nice looking are the ones we got this morning. We beat the crap out of 'em ! After one day, NONE of them are in good shape. Yours are scale ! Maybe some spray paint here and there. An arrow in red pointing left or right, numbers on them, maybe some graffiti.
Glad to hear it, I think they look pretty good to. Before these would go on the layout, they would be dressed up more. I cant say I have ever seen any painted up with arrows and such though. Thanks for the comments.
If you slightly overfill your rectangular mold and then place the piece of acrylic you used on top of it (spray it with release), you'll get perfectly flat bottoms on your castings.
carmium Thanks for the comments and the tip! I will give this a try next time I do this.
Really nice idea. A quick question. Have you ever used foam filled poster board for the side walls when making molds?
Jim
That would probably work fine if its sealed up at the joints. This molding compound was pretty thin for the most part. My housings I would say were overkill. So yes, good idea.
@@ModelerManMike Thanks for the reply. I'll experiment.
Look out for a resin called jesmonite its great stuff to use and not as toxic as the 2 part poly's
Thanks for the tip!
WOW! This was great. It would be a great way to make some N Scale parts. Keep up the work on the great videos.
Great video! Useful tip for one part moulds - fill until the resin just balloons over the top, and then place a piece of thick perspex or glass on top, sprayed with release agent. Gives a perfect flat bottom to the castings every time!
Hey Mike, this is Kelley the Z scaler in Germany.A tip for molds, use legos. You can make them fast any size and can take them apart and reuse them
Hey Kelley, I have seen people use Lego's, I have a large collection as well!
Awesome video. Thanks again for the walk through. Educational as usual!!
Awesome, thank you, I'm looking for 1:12 bricks for an outdoor pizza oven and you were suggested, not exactly bricks but a good watch, thanks for sharing!
You bet, thanks for the comments!
There are some ethical questions raised by buying parts and then recasting them. It is a good way to get yourself hated.
That said. Alumilite out of Kalamazoo MI. Makes some of the best RTV molding supplies and some of the best casting resin on the market.
If you want to make parts like this (perhaps from your own master) you might consider a vacuum chamber to degas your mold and resin.
On the whole, I want to thank you for the wonderful videos you have been producing.
Please keep it up.
Hello pmsteamrailroading, thanks so much for your comment. You have raised a good point that I to have felt so many times over the years. Casting purchased parts instead of buying more from the manufacturer. After spending endless amounts of cash on so many things over the years, I feel that casting a few of my own really isn't hurting anyone. Now, if I were to sell these parts, this would be an issue, I personally would take issue with anyone doing this. Surely this would be against the law or something.
I would hope that no one would "hate" me for adding items to my own personal collection from casting. It does make one think though about the thoughts and feelings on the subject. If it is, or becomes an issue, I will remove this video from my UA-cam Channel.
I have looked into a vacuum chamber before and in all, I do this to save a bit of money, the chambers are so expensive and the parts I am duplicating are really not that big of a deal I think. If, for example I wanted to duplicate and sell something of my own creation, I might then consider the money for a chamber. They are really neat, wish I had room and the money for one! :) Just looks like fun.
I am glad you enjoy the video's I put up here, I do so enjoy making them and seeing and hearing the feedback just like this is so wonderful. Look forward to any other comments on any of my video's from you!
How in the world do we see a thumbs down here? would like to hear your feedback!
Some people will bitch about a free lunch.
materia pls
interesting...thanks for sharing
You bet, thank you for the comments.
Hey Mike... Great video first of all and how you got 5 thumbs down on this one is beyond me... Could you tell me where and what brand of rubber you used? Thank you in advance and again, great video.
Hello J White, Its really incredible how that thumbs up and thumbs down work. It seems that regardless of how much time you spend or what you offer for free for people that there are always a few people out there that just hit the thumbs down, I think its the way of the world now, unhappy people I guess? The products I used in this video were made by "Hobby Time". I think this can be purchased off of Ebay. I actually found this at Michael's sometime back. It worked great but for what I see with this is that it worked better for concrete type stuff better than anything else really.
Thanks for the video, but don't want to deal with silicone you have to weigh. Tried Aluminite by eye balling the hardener and it was a disaster. Now using a 50/50 silicon type mix and my life is a lot easier.
50/50 is easy. I say, use what works :)
It's hilarious! i bought the exact same supplies to start with! you might have discovered it yourself, Stewalin is more of a gypsum than a resin. it works fine for the concrete parts, but personally i would go for a proper resin for the drums, beams and toilets.
Beside that, nice video! contains everything important for a one part mold. maybe explain further why you put the originals in the bottom of frame rather then sticking them on top. In addition, turn up the oven to about 50-60 Degrees to accelerate the vulcanisation!
+Morten Albertsen (Mineraleater) +Morten Albertsen (Mineraleater) Hey Morten, Thanks for the comments on the video. Yea, I did notice that it is just so natural for concrete type parts. It seemed to work fine for the others but anything concrete this is perfect stuff. I am not sure about the question on the parts placement in the mold? I placed them on the bottom of the mold because it is actually the top of the mold, once it all cures the parts are then put into the top? I dont know if that makes sense, even to me, but it all worked. I was happy with the results and for the small parts it works great. I think for anything larger I would probably have used resin. One thing I did notice, is that this really seemed to catch a lot more detail than I thought it would. It was all good though.
Mike, your model work is excellent as well as the video productions. I enjoy the music at the beginning of this particular video and would like to know where I can find the library. Thanks.
+bobspacebbq That is found in the stock music in Pinnacle Studio 17/18 I think.
I'm into broom racing. But as long s she is a cute Witch.
I dont know what that sign says, I know they were like 25c Euro though, like maybe 40c US, thats cheap! I like it like that.
Where did you get the originals from i.e. the drums etc? Thanks great vid hi from Australia.
From various vendors, like Tichi. You can find much of that stuff on Ebay/Amazon now, its great. I dont even think you would need to have to make them anymore.
Great video, I have some molds of mow work trucks and didn't know how or what to use on them. Thanks so much for sharing!
Great! Glad this was of use.
I mad a few molds with a different product and i used a spray on mold release both in making the molds and when using the molds
This material really didnt need any release agent, it worked great without it.
it's defiantly different than the blue stuff i have
Rodney Nelson It's defiant?!
Have you used the molds again since you made this video? Any problems (drying out, etc.)? Great videos. Love the coal mine!
Thanks for the compliments, and comments. The molds are still just as flexible as they were after they were made. I have used them several times without any degradation.
Thanks.
the bob ross of model building
Nice work! I have an HO Rivarossi steam locomotive that has one pilot step missing that I maybe to duplicate. Thanks for the information!
To funny... I really have no idea what that says!
Your a Cool Dude!
Great tutorial Mike! Everything was straigt forward nothing difficult about following your isntructions. I like yor style of telling the story of the product. 5***** and two thumbs up! RT
Makes me feel good knowing I am doing something right :) Thank you so much for the compliments and taking the time to write!
Thanks 👍 😊
You bet, thanks for the comments.
Great video Mike first I have seen of anyone making their own molds. Did you use anything in the rubber molds to help release the parts you made? Great way to make multiple parts cheap. Wonder if there is anyplace here to get that mold making kit.
Hey! Thanks so much for your comments, much appreciated fellow Texan! :) this rubber was just a strange find for me but I do know after searching the web that several company's sell this stuff. RTV Rubber I think its called and its becoming more available as well. As far as a release agent, I didnt use anything, man, this stuff here was like using butter, it was so smooth!
Done anything new lately?
Not lately no. Maybe sometime but just haven't had the time really. This real life thing can get in the way sometimes!
that was very creative
Hey, Thanks John, I have since come up with a bunch of different things for making molds and stuff. I dont have enough stuff to duplicate though! Take care.
Great looking mold!
Thanks! these have cranked out some parts to! Work horses!
You prolly dont give a shit but if you're bored like me during the covid times then you can watch all the new movies and series on instaflixxer. I've been watching with my gf during the lockdown xD
@Kase Benton Yup, have been using InstaFlixxer for months myself =)
@Kase Benton Definitely, have been using InstaFlixxer for months myself :)
@Kase Benton Yea, have been using InstaFlixxer for months myself :)
You must be a tool maker. I was one for 20 years... I see your very thorough. Well done.
Thats a compliment isnt it! Thank you. Jest spent a lot of time tinkering with all sorts of stuff. Hobby galore really from race cars, model planes, drag trucks etc. I have been all over the hobby stuff. Just learn things that cross over into other things, it really helps. I guess this really shows, thank you so much for the comments!
Stumbled on your channel a week ago. Just getting into the hobbie, your videos are a great help. Thanks
Good news, being new, you might help me think back on things I might need to know! If you think of anything that I can put together to help out let me know ok!
Great video like the way you used the weathering powders makes a model more realistic.
Weathering adds an entire new element to these models, sitting clean on the railroad they seem to me to look a bit out of place. Some of the museum ralroads that dont weather really do look good to, but I have decided to go with weathered buildings over clean new looking buildings, and two, the powders help me hide so many mistakes! lol!
Adhering to the theory that there are no "dumb questions".....:-)...What were those parts.? Kind of job-sight misc...barriers, stops, barrels Porta-Sani...stuff like that I guess.?
Thank You
another well done vid btw.....
Hey, thanks for the comments! The parts are HO Scale model railroad stuff. The barriers are the big concrete barriers used to devide traffic or block off an area from vehicles, you know them big concrete things you try to avoide while driving :) The porta sani's are just what they are, they are the portable restrooms seen at job sites, special functions and stuff. They are all just tiny for a model railroad. Hope this helps!
@@ModelerManMike AKA 'Jersey' or 'K' barriers. They just need to be weathered a little. Or a lot! I've never seen clean, new ones. They must be pretty durable cuz the ones they use around here look like they came over on the Mayflower. But then, concrete is kinda hard, like my noggin!
@@thomream1888 Right? And I like to see them with the tire marks as they create great curved lines on them, different color paint chips from cars to.
Very Nice !! Thank you I needed this one to help me ! .
You bet, so glad I could help out here. This is really useful if you have many small parts to put together. In all, its relatively inexpensive to.