My first memorable proper barrel was when I was 15 at Rockies rights. And still to this day my best biggest barrel was a big back beach Angourie left. In out, in out, in out, then on the beach. I feel it to be so spiritual, like when the foam ball picks up your fins and that is when you are in God's hands. At that time is when you talk to Huey and ask him for a clean exit, and shwoosh you come flying out or you think you are in a washing machine.
Single fins only now for me, trim, flow and soul. No more wiggly woggly, stop start snap and off. People have asked how can you ride so far on the waves and I simply say get a single fin.
Out in the line up, i like to tell the groms about my shark detector. They are super interested until I say, you stick your finger in the water then put it in your mouth and if it tastes salty then there's probably sharks around. Two of them took off like they were on jet boards.
My first memorable proper barrel was when I was 15 at Rockies rights. And still to this day my best biggest barrel was a big back beach Angourie left. In out, in out, in out, then on the beach. I feel it to be so spiritual, like when the foam ball picks up your fins and that is when you are in God's hands. At that time is when you talk to Huey and ask him for a clean exit, and shwoosh you come flying out or you think you are in a washing machine.
I cant believe this episode only has only 539 views and 4 comments ¿
Im still paying attention from Alameda.
Single fins only now for me, trim, flow and soul. No more wiggly woggly, stop start snap and off. People have asked how can you ride so far on the waves and I simply say get a single fin.
Only a surfer knows the feeling. Surfing is the only true way one can actually be in mother nature, not just on mother nature.
Out in the line up, i like to tell the groms about my shark detector. They are super interested until I say, you stick your finger in the water then put it in your mouth and if it tastes salty then there's probably sharks around. Two of them took off like they were on jet boards.