Great vid. I’d recommend replacing the valve cover while you have it all apart. Either genuine or URO both of which come with gasket, bolts, etc. Preventative for that PCV valve that will one day fail from age alone
Great video, however I tried to do this your way and discovered that it was impossible to put eccentric shaft back in and not screwing up needle bearings without relieving pressure from the springs/rollers that push it out as I tried to put it back in. By the way that crucial part of your video was blacked out (wonder why). I figured out how to relieved pressure from those springs without removing them (just take each leg of the spring, each spring has 2 and remove it from the roller one at the time and rest each leg against valve shaft, the #6 cylinder last leg is the hardest to do). Without springs loaded rollers it was easy to do and I wouldn’t do it any other way.
dude, i had multiple codes about eccentric shaft and just replace the valve cover now all of them are gone, car its smooth as factory no need to spend unnecessary money
Just because that fixed your problem doesn't mean it will fix everyone's. These cars have a pattern failure where the components for the eccentric shaft wear and do not rotate properly. This causes binding in the movements and the fault codes addressed in this video.
Hey, great video, planning to do this later today on an N52. Hopefully you still check out comments section here to answer a question I have regarding eccentric shaft and binding. Currently have a 2011 BMW X3 with the N52 engine spitting out the following codes: P1056, P105B, P1049, P105A. I'm pretty sure the DME is shorted on the VVT circuit and needs to be replaced. However, I'm still trying to figure out why it's shorted. After paying for dealership diagnostics, they are recommending the entire system to be replaced as a "blanket repair" similar to one mentioned in the comments below here (eccentric shaft, spray nozzle, bearings, gaskets, sensor, motor and harness). Basically stating they have no idea what caused the short, therefore replacing the entire system would fix the issue. From my understanding, the eccentric shaft would be the only cause for a short if it were to be binded somewhere therefore requiring the motor to request more voltage than usual. However, once I remove the shaft, would there be any physical evidence of binding or other damage? Currently with the shaft still intact, I didn't feel any resistance moving the motor up and down the gears. Nor were there any physics evidence of damage on the motor itself. Any ideas?
You are correct that the eccentric motor binding would be the only thing to cause the excessive current draw. As far as physical evidence to the shaft or motor as dead proof it was the issue, well that has varied for me. I have seen ones where the teeth on the motor are all eaten up, and it's obvious that there was an issue. Other times everything looks okay but I would replace everything anyways, usually warranty, and the fault would go away. So what I'm saying is physical damage or binding isn't always going to be there even if it is having an issue. As far as the harness being any part of the issue, I have never seen that on an n52, nor have I seen the driver in the ecu go bad. There were issues with the n55 harness where it would short out and cause issues, so maybe it is possible on the n52, I've just never seen it.
@@MunkysGarage Thank you for the quick reply. So the best option here would be to remove the shaft and simply replace it with a new one? The shaft would be under warranty but I was told the DME won’t be. I have to make sure the short doesn’t happen again otherwise I’ll be throwing away another DME for no reason. Also, I tested the motor with electrical terminals for both pins and it works properly, clockwise with positive on right, and counter when positive is on left. The teeth also appear to be fine with no wear or chip marks. I doubt the harness would be the cause of the short, but this X3 does have the same chassis code as N55 (F25). So I might take a look it just in case. As for the shaft, do you know what would cause this binding? Lack of lubrication/oil? Bearings are worn?
I would say yes your next step is to replace replace eccentric shaft. Make sure you replace the bearings with it. It is my understanding it binds in the bearings due to the load it is trying to push against. It almost seems to me like it would be considered a wear item. I'm surprised the DME isn't covered, unless you just have higher mileage. As they are normally covered for 10 years 100k miles.
@@MunkysGarage Alright thanks for the quick replay again. I'll just simply replace the shaft, bearings, oil spray nozzle, gaskets and DME. Will update if anyone is curious about the results or conclusion of this repair. And yes, vechile is older than 10 years and has around 114k miles, so warranty does not cover DME.
How to RESET BMW Valvetronic motor: 1. Insert the "Valvetronic Motor" and connect its 2 pin plug. 2. Then switch the ignition onto position 2 & within a space of 15 seconds, depress the accelerator pedal down to full throttle 10 times and you will hear the "valvetronic motor" program itself back to factory spec.
nice video, complete guide but i need to know how you took the eccentric cam motor out, i have the screws out but its more then just a twist to the left or right to get out
Do you have the eccentric shaft end stop removed and the eccentric shaft turned completely out of the way. If you don't remove the end stop and turn the eccentric shaft the motor will hit it when trying to pull it out.
Thanks a lot for you video and the nice trick with not having to remove the springs. As far as I can tell you are working on an E9X car, do you think it would be the same on an F30 with the N55 engine? Perhaps you just did not show it, but what about the injector seals? As I have read they have one time teflon seals that need to be replaced once demounted, or what is you experience in that regard?
It was an E90 I was working on in the video. Doing the eccentric shaft on the N55 in the F30 is the same process. The repair instructions do tell you to replace the seals on the end of the injectors when they are removed. In the 10 years I have been working on BMW's I have only replaced those seals a handful of times. If you take the injectors out and put them back in within a few hours the seals don't get a chance to swell up and will still seat back into the cylinder head correctly.
Hi man many thanks for sharing the information. How did you put back the injectors? That part of the video was very quick. By knocking over them maybe?
If you push down on them at the threaded connection, they will usually go back down in the head far enough that you can put the hold down plates back on. Then, you can use that to push them in the rest of the way.
hi there ... loved the video ... just a question the needle bearing do they have a cut on them so that you can fit it on the eccentric Shaft ... Thanks
@@MunkysGarage Hi there ... i need to change my valve cover gasket and will i have the cover off i want to change my valvetronic motor and check my eccentric shaft
As long as you don't leave the injectors out for a long period of time they will be fine. If you leave them out for say 24 hours, they will swell up and won't go back in properly.
@@MunkysGarage Hmm. I did my servo motor when I did my VC. Could of saved me a bunch of hassle. Changing the teflon ring was a pain. Had to order a special tapered die set. I did only have to remove one injector though. I was a bit worried since its direct injection and seats into the combustion chamber.
I have seen it stick full open and cause a no start. Usually it will try to start and then just stall due to the vehicle not being able to adapt to the full lift at that wrong time.
Hi, I heard that it is critically important to put the shaft in the same angle as it was pulled out (for timing issue). Is that correct? I cannot imagine we can put it back in the exact precise angle as before though.
Angle doesn't matter going back in. Just gotta make sure you aren't pushing into those levers with it when you start putting it back together, as you risk knocking the levers out of place.
Hey man , could you share what is the position eccentric shaft motor should be in when putting the valvetronic motor back in? I put it back in and im getting a code saying valvetronic motor is not in a right position with eccentric shaft motor. Any idea?
There is no correct position for the eccentric shaft motor. Once in you have to perform a reference run with a scan tool so it can learn where the end stops are. The end stop is a hard stop screwed into the head that the eccentric shaft hits. When it hits this end stop the motor sees a spike in current draw and knows that is where it needs to stop turning
@@MunkysGarage thank you so much for the reply, I started the car and did the scan to “learn valvetronic motor” and the engine started clicking a lot and smoke started coming out of it. So i turned it off. i assumed it was the positioning that was wrong. Would you happen to know what it could be?
It usually makes a clicking noise momentarily when it is hitting the end stops at minimum and maximum lift. If it keeps making the noise im not entirely sure what would be causing it. Smoke might be from wiring getting hot due to high current draw on the motor if it is trying to move and cant.
@@MunkysGarage i see, yeah i kept making the clicking noise and then started having misfires and the whole car was shaking a little, i stopped the engine right away and the smoke came out. I only changed valvetronic motor thats it, and i put everything back. I am planning to open up the engine I just have no clue how to check what is wrong. When i scan it, it gives me these codes: 1. “valvetronic servomotor, position sensors: short circuit or line disconnection” 2. “valvetronic servomotor, position sensors: supply voltage faulty” 3. Dme, monitoring, 5v sensor supply: Voltage outside valid range Any idea what could these be? Thank you so much I really appreciate your help
Hi hale how are you I’ve had my car come up with a drivetrain malfunction and all power isn’t available, then I had the valvetronic motor changed by a mechanic but once I got home I had the same code come up again, I called him up and he didn’t cycle the new valvetronic motor so I done it at home, it passed all cycles. Then I drove the car right after that and the code comes up again. After that the code still comes up, does that mean the esscentric shaft needs changing?
I don't have any specifics on which scan tools are capable of this procedure. The scan tool used in this video is something you would have if you owned a shop but is not something a normal DIY'er would bother purchasing. I have a cheaper scan tool than the one used in this video(about $500) that I have for personal use and it is not capable of doing the procedure. So finding one on the cheaper side of things that can do it may be hard.
Great tutorial!! I have to repace the eccentric shaft on a bmw n52 engine that also has valvetronic due to broken teeth on the eccentric shaft gear. Would i be able to also replace the shaft without removing the valvetronic springs? I saw the spring tool on amazon for $139. Seems totally affordable. My fear is that the threads in the cylinder head casting might get damaged when tightening the eccentric shaft bearing cap bolts to pull the shaft back in place. Your thoughts please??? Thank You Ross
It's actually not possible to due the eccentric shaft on the N52 without removing the springs. The cylinder head is designed differently and the shaft mounts differently. The springs will come out if you attempt to do it without relieving the tension on the springs. Believe me there is a lot of force on those springs. If you do get the tool be careful when you are taking the tension off the springs. Make sure the tool is locked onto the spring properly before removing the screw holding it down. And when you go to put it back together make sure you have the springs sitting on the eccentrics properly. If they are not on there properly they will kick the eccentric out when it starts up.
Thank you for the response. One more quick question please. After removing the valvetronic springs with the special tool, do i need to remove the intermediate levers as well? According to identifix, in order to remove the intermediate levers I have to remove the gate block that is secured with two little Torx screws. I just want to do the minimum amount of disassembly so I can just replace the eccentric shaft. But if that requires removing the intermediate levers then so be it I just thought I would ask.
I have only done an eccentric shaft on a N52 a few times. From what I remember the levers do not need to come out once you take the pressure off the springs. I believe the levers will stay in there while you take the eccentric shaft out.
What would cause the Valvetronic Actuator to short out? My 2013 535i was ratchet clicking top of motor since I purchased it in July 2016. Labor Day 2019 car went into limp mode and Drivetrain Malfunction with 42000 miles. Actuator shorted and had to be replaced as well as the Eccentric Shaft. My theory is Eccentric Shaft started binding before purchasing car (2nd owner) in 2016. The ratchet clicking (actuator relearning) sound is not normal. If you have that sound every time you drive car after engine is cut off, expect fault code to eventually get thrown.
I agree the motor going bad was most likely due to the shaft binding up and causing the motor to pull too much amperage. If you have the ratcheting noise when unlocking the car (eccentric shaft does a reference run when the ecu is woken up) this is a tell tale sign the eccentric shaft is beginning to bind up. I have seen, only on one occasion, a binding shaft and failing motor actually burn up the driver in the ecu from pulling too much amperage. So if you have this noise or are setting faults I recommend repair asap to prevent more costly damage.
@@MunkysGarage So no sense just replacing the eccentric shaft motor by itself. What causes the shaft to bind up? bad needle bearings? Can you just replace them and keep the motor and shaft?
Thanks for the great video, just curious for the valvetronic run in, do you know what tools could do it basically as straight forward as possible? The info online isn't super clear, some even say its not needed.
I have always had access to the BMW scan tool to perform the run in service. I believe some of the other scan tools, such as Snap On or Matco, can do it as well. I'm just not sure. I have also never not done this run in procedure. Only because it is listed as follow up work in the BMW repair instructions. I'm sure you could get away with not doing it, but you may have problems. I'm just not sure on that point.
@@Kevgti5 The bmw software is called ISTA, or integrated service technical application. It allows me to pull fault codes, run test plans, activate things to check function, and also programs newer vehicles.
@@MunkysGarage hi I replaced my eccentric shaft sensor and valvetronic motor on my 06 530xit n52 engine, just installed ista d and p, can I use these to do a relearn? I haven't seen any good videos as of yet on it.
Car had around 115,000 miles on it. No previous signs before the failure. Sometimes before failure you will notice a ratcheting or clicking style noise when unlocking the car. This is due to the valvetronic motor attempting to due a reference run when the car wakes up. The ratcheting noise is caused by it binding up and not being able to move.
@@MunkysGarage Thanks for the info! Glad to see you put on some mileage before a large failure like this. Might I inquire what your driving habits are like and what the mileage was when you purchased the car?
I'm sorry but I cannot provide too much information on that front. This was a friends car and unfortunately he had purchased it a month prior from a used car lot. But from my experience doing this job in the past, I've done it on cars with as little as 85,000 miles on them. Not really sure what causes the failure of this component. Seeing as how it is bearing wear causing the issue I would have to say oil change frequency and how hard the car is driven would be significant contributing factors.
@@MunkysGarage It would seem that BMW with their long oil change intervals had planned on you having to buy another car sooner than later. There are many stories of engine part failure where lack of oil changing and hard driving are very possibly the problem.
@@AG-wi5bn On my F30 with the N55 that system broke around 40.000 miles, even tho it had hade yearly oil changes. A "hack" that can be done is to move the eccentric shafts teeth away from the valvetronic actuator wormgear, thus disabling the systemet. The car will just fall back on using the throttle body instead. Won't even set MIL-status, the previous owner ran the car like that for 25.000 miles and I have continues to do so for the 12.000 miles I have owned. The problem you get is if the valvetronic fails while open, then the engines won't start anymore.
Hi, I have the clicking noise at lock/unlock. Does this mean I have to replace the shaft too, or just the motor? I have done the relearn phrase and it’s passes with ease. Just have an issue with clicking and warm restart (rough idle or a stall within first 10 seconds of starting up after hot)
The clicking noise and rough running is caused by the shaft binding and not moving properly when commanded. Its hard to say exactly which part is faulty without looking at it. The fault could be the motor itself binding up and unable to move. It could also be the shaft binding up in the bearings it turns in inside the cylinder head. Both of these will cause the issues you are having. Inspection would be the only way to determine what the cause is.
i got a code p1030 valvetronic motor sluggish movement. i changed the motor ran ista to relearn the motor. started the car and got the codes p1030, 2dce and 2e0f. would replacing the shaft solve this or am i missing something?
Hi, I don't have any of the scan tools, so I was planning to have my local shop do the reprogramming for the VANOS motor and the injectors (I had to replace mine). Does anyone know if the car will start and drive with new injectors or will I need to have it towed to the shop?
It will start and run. But I would not advise driving it. The injector flow rates are what needs programmed into the engine ECU after replacement. If it is using the old injector flow rates with different injectors it could cause an issue where it flows too much fuel and hyrdolocks the engine.
Hi, I have the problem on my 640xdrive (the noise when closing the doors), replaced the valvetronic engine but the shaft will still not go back all way up (it does go all the way done). BMW says it's possible the DME or could it also be the shaft itself ? When the motor is switched off, the shaft should go all the way up (don't know it this is max or min), mine does. At this up position, should the spring action be the smallest? iow should you be able to move the shaft with the allen hey without friction ? How do you know the shaft has to be replaced ? Thanks for the response.
I believe the shaft returns to minimum lift when the vehicle is off. I am not 100% sure if that is the up or down position, I believe it is the down position. When it is at maximum lift is when you will have the most spring tension trying to return the shaft to the lowest position. The shaft should be easy to move through its range with the allen key on the motor, but will have spring return if you let go of the allen key. It is hard to tell if the shaft is actually "bad". Many times on vehicles that are having issues I can still turn the shaft freely with the allen key and also with the motor removed by using the wrench spot at the end of the shaft. The issue is the motor is monitored by the computer for both position and amperage draw. When the computer sees amperage draw go over its pre-defined limit, it sets the fault and the system quits working. This pre-defined amperage draw may still allow movement of the shaft with tools, but the computer deems it is binding and it will not operate. Most of the time I see galling of the teeth either on the motor or the shaft, and this is usually an indication things are binding up causing the high amperage issue, and subsequent shut down of the system. It is common practice to replace all components of that system when servicing just to eliminate having to redo the repair again when it turns out it wasn't just a faulty motor. There have also been some instances where faults can be caused by a faulty wiring harness for the eccentric shaft motor, in these instances it sets faults for voltage(not sure of exact fault description), and not the ones addressed in this video for mechanically stiff or binding.
@@MunkysGarage Thank you for the quick response. I have seen the shaft going all the way down by the servo motor (same direction before you can removed the servo) every time. I understood at this point a lot (most ?) of force is needed , that would indicate the servo is working. It's in the other direction that the shaft will not go the the end position (=when motor is off) every time. I will check with an allan key if I can move the shaft all the way ... Cables have been checked and the errors on the DME are not clear... And no DME is on stock ...
What would happen if you don’t put the Eccentric shaft back to the open position before you complete the job? I recently had this job done and I’m experiencing issues. Any help would be appreciated.
It has to be at the no lift end stop to properly perform the learn end stop adjustment function after replacement. If you don't do the learn endstop service function after replacement it will not work the way it is designed.
@@MunkysGarage I understand. Thanks for the reply and again great work on the video. This is one of the worst repairs that N55 owners might have to deal with.
@@johnclark7406 VDO is the original manufacturer for the actuator, as for the eccentric shaft, I believe only BMW manufactures theses, as they are made with extreme precision and not reusable for others since Valvetronic is BMW technology.
There isn't really a way to tell if the shaft is what is causing the problem. The sensor is actually built into the motor. The gear on the motor and shaft get worn and can cause binding between them. There is a service bulletin from BMW saying if it has certain faults to replace the shaft and motor together. I believe it is just a bulletin giving you a blanket repair since they don't really know which is causing the problem. If you are trying to be cost effective I would say to replace the motor first, and recheck. In all of these I have done the gear on the motor always seemed more damaged and was most likely what was causing the issue.
You do not have to replace the eccentric shaft. Most of the issues with this system stem from problems with the motor itself. There are occasions where there is damage/ wear to eccentric shaft where it could cause issues. I have not seen that very much though. There is a service bulletin from BMW that references some of the faults that stem from eccentric shaft motor problems. In that service bulletin it states to replace all components of the system. The customer of the vehicle in this video got hold of the service bulletin and wanted to air on the side of caution and just prevent any future issues. If it were my car I would have replaced the eccentric shaft motor first and gone from there.
@@MunkysGarage when im gonna replace my valvetronic can i see if the shaft is bad in any way? Like if i dont see any marks on it should i leave it alone? I randomly have only a shadowcode 135704 and my car is just running a little rough, sluggish at low rpms. Its a n55 with 88k miles on it. If i disconnect the valvetronic motor it runs better but not perfect obviously
I see some teeth are weared in my eccentric shaft. I want to see how bad is but it's blocked. When I crank the shaft doesn't turn. How can I turn the shaft and is it safe to do so?
If the eccentric shaft motor is still installed you will have to use a 4mm Allen bit to turn the motor worm gear from the top. This will then turn the eccentric shaft. If the motor is removed, there is a spot on the back of the eccentric ahaft that a 17mm open end wrench will fit over so you can turn it.
Great video. I’ve been avoiding this job due to the complexity of remove the springs and levers with the crazy job specific tool. This looks way more approachable. Question, does the actual eccentric shaft actually fail or could you do the motor, oil squirter and replace the bearings on the existing shaft?
I'm not 100% sure if the eccentric shaft is part of the problem. I have seen multiple times where there are wear marks on the shaft from it binding on the motor. I would be concerned that this would cause problems with the new motor if you just replaced the motor and oil nozzle. If there were no marks on the shaft I don't see why you couldn't just replace the bearings on it. There is a service bulletin from BMW to replace all three components if that fault is present. That is the only reason I replaced it on this car. If its your own car I would say its worth a shot. Just with a customers car its not good if it ends up coming back because you didn't replace the shaft as well.
@@MunkysGarage First off, thanks for the great video. Second, where do I look to determine if the eccentric shaft has been damaged? Am I looking at that big half-moon shaped portion with the teeth that engage the motor's worm gear? Third, can I do that inspection without removing the shaft?
Hi I have a code 2dcf valvetronic system no movement identified” I’ve already replaced valvetronic motor but the car still will not start do you think it’s the eccentric shaft?
@@RYAN151292 If you were in there to replace the motor you had to have moved the eccentric shaft to remove the motor. Did you feel any binding in the shaft when rotating it. It is most likely going to be a bearing for that shaft binding or the gear wheel on the shaft is galled up keeping the motor from being able to turn it.
Munky & Rooster's Garage thanks for the reply yes when I’ve replaced the valvetronic motor didn’t feel any binding on the shaft just tension it moves pretty free. The problem is I cannot get the valvetronic motor to spin at all it won’t move ?
Any chance of checking my videos. I’ve lost of power and having a hard time getting it started. I have a 320i with the N20 which is basically same design as n55 minus 2 cylinders. When cranking It sounds like the valves are full open at crank and no compression. But then it may start first time, but no revs or power. I’ve had a clicking noise a few times and now the car has lost all power and won’t rev about 1500rpm it’s been clicking quite a lot. No codes or lights on the dash. Will use Ista to scan it once I’ve finished installing it. Ever seen the motor fail so much that it won’t start up or rev well? Or other issue? Be great if you’ve seen this before?
I have definitely seen a failed eccentric shaft system cause a no start issue. With the N20 and N55 engine, the computer slightly opens the throttle and uses valve lift for throttle control until the valves are at maximum lift, and then returns to using the throttle plate. When you unlock the vehicle the eccentric shaft motor performs a reference run. If this motor and shaft get stuck anywhere during that run other than at the minimum lift end stop, the engine can do a myriad of weird things. Including not starting as well as having no power down low. Usually when you are hearing the clicking noise it is due to faulty motor. As has been discussed in length previously the eccentric shaft itself does not normally have to be replaced. The only reason it was replaced in my video was due to service bulletin from BMW stating to replace all components of this system if there are any issues. The customer wanted to cover all the bases and make sure he wouldn't have any further issues.
@@MunkysGarage thanks for the reply. Ordered all the parts, but didn’t order the decoupling elements for the injectors, just going to do the seals. Did you replace the seals and decoupling elements? Mine have done 101k so might be worth replacing I suspect? Thanks
Doing it the way I did in this video it only takes about 3-4 hours. May take longer for someone doing it the first time. Updated description to include part numbers.
I was told this might be a stripped vanos gear. Is it possible this knock is from the valvetronic eccentric shaft? Frequency is 1/2 crank rpm. Warning it's an ugly sound ua-cam.com/video/-w6j43aW3l4/v-deo.html
Definitely not eccentric shaft noise. The vanos gears have an issue where the bolts on the back come loose and back out. This could be noise from them hitting the cam bearing cap. But in all honesty it sounds like a spun rod bearing. Which the n55 is notorious for as well.
@@MunkysGarage Thanks for the response! "Apparently" the noise is new and the timing chain was recently replaced. I'm sure that the knock only happens 1000xpm at 2000rpm and 1500xpm at 3000rpm etc--slowmo video and audio is incredible. Is it possible the rod knock could only be audible on every other stroke?
It's worth taking a look to make sure it isn't a vanos problem. It is definitely possible for a rod knock to not be 100% in sync with engine speed. I actually have an n55 torn down right now getting a new crank and bearings (cheaper than buying a used engine) that the noise would come and go oddly. I could even get it to go away completely at a certain engine speed.
Great vid. I’d recommend replacing the valve cover while you have it all apart. Either genuine or URO both of which come with gasket, bolts, etc. Preventative for that PCV valve that will one day fail from age alone
Awesome Video !! Thank you so much, my F30 will thank you when she is back on her feet and ready for another 100,000 miles
Thanks for the video and I appreciate you showing all of the parts involved.
Great video, however I tried to do this your way and discovered that it was impossible to put eccentric shaft back in and not screwing up needle bearings without relieving pressure from the springs/rollers that push it out as I tried to put it back in. By the way that crucial part of your video was blacked out (wonder why). I figured out how to relieved pressure from those springs without removing them (just take each leg of the spring, each spring has 2 and remove it from the roller one at the time and rest each leg against valve shaft, the #6 cylinder last leg is the hardest to do). Without springs loaded rollers it was easy to do and I wouldn’t do it any other way.
dude, i had multiple codes about eccentric shaft and just replace the valve cover now all of them are gone, car its smooth as factory no need to spend unnecessary money
Just because that fixed your problem doesn't mean it will fix everyone's. These cars have a pattern failure where the components for the eccentric shaft wear and do not rotate properly. This causes binding in the movements and the fault codes addressed in this video.
Hey, great video, planning to do this later today on an N52. Hopefully you still check out comments section here to answer a question I have regarding eccentric shaft and binding. Currently have a 2011 BMW X3 with the N52 engine spitting out the following codes: P1056, P105B, P1049, P105A. I'm pretty sure the DME is shorted on the VVT circuit and needs to be replaced. However, I'm still trying to figure out why it's shorted.
After paying for dealership diagnostics, they are recommending the entire system to be replaced as a "blanket repair" similar to one mentioned in the comments below here (eccentric shaft, spray nozzle, bearings, gaskets, sensor, motor and harness). Basically stating they have no idea what caused the short, therefore replacing the entire system would fix the issue. From my understanding, the eccentric shaft would be the only cause for a short if it were to be binded somewhere therefore requiring the motor to request more voltage than usual. However, once I remove the shaft, would there be any physical evidence of binding or other damage? Currently with the shaft still intact, I didn't feel any resistance moving the motor up and down the gears. Nor were there any physics evidence of damage on the motor itself. Any ideas?
You are correct that the eccentric motor binding would be the only thing to cause the excessive current draw. As far as physical evidence to the shaft or motor as dead proof it was the issue, well that has varied for me. I have seen ones where the teeth on the motor are all eaten up, and it's obvious that there was an issue. Other times everything looks okay but I would replace everything anyways, usually warranty, and the fault would go away. So what I'm saying is physical damage or binding isn't always going to be there even if it is having an issue. As far as the harness being any part of the issue, I have never seen that on an n52, nor have I seen the driver in the ecu go bad. There were issues with the n55 harness where it would short out and cause issues, so maybe it is possible on the n52, I've just never seen it.
@@MunkysGarage Thank you for the quick reply. So the best option here would be to remove the shaft and simply replace it with a new one? The shaft would be under warranty but I was told the DME won’t be. I have to make sure the short doesn’t happen again otherwise I’ll be throwing away another DME for no reason. Also, I tested the motor with electrical terminals for both pins and it works properly, clockwise with positive on right, and counter when positive is on left. The teeth also appear to be fine with no wear or chip marks.
I doubt the harness would be the cause of the short, but this X3 does have the same chassis code as N55 (F25). So I might take a look it just in case. As for the shaft, do you know what would cause this binding? Lack of lubrication/oil? Bearings are worn?
I would say yes your next step is to replace replace eccentric shaft. Make sure you replace the bearings with it. It is my understanding it binds in the bearings due to the load it is trying to push against. It almost seems to me like it would be considered a wear item. I'm surprised the DME isn't covered, unless you just have higher mileage. As they are normally covered for 10 years 100k miles.
@@MunkysGarage Alright thanks for the quick replay again. I'll just simply replace the shaft, bearings, oil spray nozzle, gaskets and DME. Will update if anyone is curious about the results or conclusion of this repair. And yes, vechile is older than 10 years and has around 114k miles, so warranty does not cover DME.
Hi there... Did you fixed it... Did you replace the shaft and bearings... Thank you
How to RESET BMW Valvetronic motor:
1. Insert the "Valvetronic Motor" and connect its 2 pin plug.
2. Then switch the ignition onto position 2 & within a space of 15 seconds, depress the accelerator pedal down to full throttle 10 times and you will hear the "valvetronic motor" program itself back to factory spec.
2 PIN?????
@@JusticeNass Probably an N52...way different than an N55 which this video is about...
Apparently common issue my 2021 x5m s63 w 45,000 miles is at the dealer right now and needs to have this done
nice video, complete guide but i need to know how you took the eccentric cam motor out, i have the screws out but its more then just a twist to the left or right to get out
Do you have the eccentric shaft end stop removed and the eccentric shaft turned completely out of the way. If you don't remove the end stop and turn the eccentric shaft the motor will hit it when trying to pull it out.
Thanks a lot for you video and the nice trick with not having to remove the springs. As far as I can tell you are working on an E9X car, do you think it would be the same on an F30 with the N55 engine? Perhaps you just did not show it, but what about the injector seals? As I have read they have one time teflon seals that need to be replaced once demounted, or what is you experience in that regard?
It was an E90 I was working on in the video. Doing the eccentric shaft on the N55 in the F30 is the same process. The repair instructions do tell you to replace the seals on the end of the injectors when they are removed. In the 10 years I have been working on BMW's I have only replaced those seals a handful of times. If you take the injectors out and put them back in within a few hours the seals don't get a chance to swell up and will still seat back into the cylinder head correctly.
Hi man many thanks for sharing the information. How did you put back the injectors? That part of the video was very quick. By knocking over them maybe?
If you push down on them at the threaded connection, they will usually go back down in the head far enough that you can put the hold down plates back on. Then, you can use that to push them in the rest of the way.
hi there ... loved the video ... just a question the needle bearing do they have a cut on them so that you can fit it on the eccentric Shaft ... Thanks
Yes, they do. The plastic cage they are mounted in has a split in it so you can open it up to put it over the shaft.
@@MunkysGarage thanks .... just another question were can i get a chart with all the torque values
@@antoniocete4441 Not really sure where to get them outside of having access to service literature. What torque specs are you looking for?
@@MunkysGarage i need to change the oil gasket on my M135i and also i need to change my Valvetronic motor and check if my shaft isnt seized
@@MunkysGarage Hi there ... i need to change my valve cover gasket and will i have the cover off i want to change my valvetronic motor and check my eccentric shaft
What about replacement of the teflon sleeves on the injectors? BMW says they are one time use every time you pull the injectors.
As long as you don't leave the injectors out for a long period of time they will be fine. If you leave them out for say 24 hours, they will swell up and won't go back in properly.
@@MunkysGarage Hmm. I did my servo motor when I did my VC. Could of saved me a bunch of hassle. Changing the teflon ring was a pain. Had to order a special tapered die set. I did only have to remove one injector though. I was a bit worried since its direct injection and seats into the combustion chamber.
Great info. Is it possible for the motor to fail and leave valves open causing a no start condition?
I have seen it stick full open and cause a no start. Usually it will try to start and then just stall due to the vehicle not being able to adapt to the full lift at that wrong time.
Hi, I heard that it is critically important to put the shaft in the same angle as it was pulled out (for timing issue). Is that correct?
I cannot imagine we can put it back in the exact precise angle as before though.
Angle doesn't matter going back in. Just gotta make sure you aren't pushing into those levers with it when you start putting it back together, as you risk knocking the levers out of place.
Obrigado pela força. Thx for The help.
Hey man , could you share what is the position eccentric shaft motor should be in when putting the valvetronic motor back in? I put it back in and im getting a code saying valvetronic motor is not in a right position with eccentric shaft motor. Any idea?
There is no correct position for the eccentric shaft motor. Once in you have to perform a reference run with a scan tool so it can learn where the end stops are. The end stop is a hard stop screwed into the head that the eccentric shaft hits. When it hits this end stop the motor sees a spike in current draw and knows that is where it needs to stop turning
@@MunkysGarage thank you so much for the reply, I started the car and did the scan to “learn valvetronic motor” and the engine started clicking a lot and smoke started coming out of it. So i turned it off. i assumed it was the positioning that was wrong. Would you happen to know what it could be?
It usually makes a clicking noise momentarily when it is hitting the end stops at minimum and maximum lift. If it keeps making the noise im not entirely sure what would be causing it. Smoke might be from wiring getting hot due to high current draw on the motor if it is trying to move and cant.
@@MunkysGarage i see, yeah i kept making the clicking noise and then started having misfires and the whole car was shaking a little, i stopped the engine right away and the smoke came out. I only changed valvetronic motor thats it, and i put everything back. I am planning to open up the engine I just have no clue how to check what is wrong. When i scan it, it gives me these codes: 1. “valvetronic servomotor, position sensors: short circuit or line disconnection”
2. “valvetronic servomotor, position sensors: supply voltage faulty”
3. Dme, monitoring, 5v sensor supply: Voltage outside valid range
Any idea what could these be? Thank you so much I really appreciate your help
Most likely a faulty wiring harness between valvetronic motor and dme. Very common failure point along with the motor.
Thanks for the video. I didn't see the 335xi 16' on the list... F34. Any reason why?
No reason, just forgot to put it on there.
@@MunkysGarage got it! About to grab a low mileage 335xi gt, thought I'd ask. Thanks for the response. Cheers
Hi hale how are you I’ve had my car come up with a drivetrain malfunction and all power isn’t available, then I had the valvetronic motor changed by a mechanic but once I got home I had the same code come up again, I called him up and he didn’t cycle the new valvetronic motor so I done it at home, it passed all cycles. Then I drove the car right after that and the code comes up again. After that the code still comes up, does that mean the esscentric shaft needs changing?
I would say yes the eccentric shaft and bearings need to be changed.
Where can I get a scan tool to relean the valvetronic motor on my 2011 135i?
I don't have any specifics on which scan tools are capable of this procedure. The scan tool used in this video is something you would have if you owned a shop but is not something a normal DIY'er would bother purchasing. I have a cheaper scan tool than the one used in this video(about $500) that I have for personal use and it is not capable of doing the procedure. So finding one on the cheaper side of things that can do it may be hard.
@@MunkysGarage I appreciate the information.
Why are part numbers different between video akd description?
Just a difference between new and old part numbers. If you use either one it will get you to the correct part.
Great tutorial!! I have to repace the eccentric shaft on a bmw n52 engine that also has valvetronic due to broken teeth on the eccentric shaft gear. Would i be able to also replace the shaft without removing the valvetronic springs? I saw the spring tool on amazon for $139. Seems totally affordable. My fear is that the threads in the cylinder head casting might get damaged when tightening the eccentric shaft bearing cap bolts to pull the shaft back in place. Your thoughts please??? Thank You Ross
It's actually not possible to due the eccentric shaft on the N52 without removing the springs. The cylinder head is designed differently and the shaft mounts differently. The springs will come out if you attempt to do it without relieving the tension on the springs. Believe me there is a lot of force on those springs. If you do get the tool be careful when you are taking the tension off the springs. Make sure the tool is locked onto the spring properly before removing the screw holding it down. And when you go to put it back together make sure you have the springs sitting on the eccentrics properly. If they are not on there properly they will kick the eccentric out when it starts up.
Thank you for the response. One more quick question please. After removing the valvetronic springs with the special tool, do i need to remove the intermediate levers as well? According to identifix, in order to remove the intermediate levers I have to remove the gate block that is secured with two little Torx screws. I just want to do the minimum amount of disassembly so I can just replace the eccentric shaft. But if that requires removing the intermediate levers then so be it I just thought I would ask.
I have only done an eccentric shaft on a N52 a few times. From what I remember the levers do not need to come out once you take the pressure off the springs. I believe the levers will stay in there while you take the eccentric shaft out.
What would cause the Valvetronic Actuator to short out? My 2013 535i was ratchet clicking top of motor since I purchased it in July 2016. Labor Day 2019 car went into limp mode and Drivetrain Malfunction with 42000 miles. Actuator shorted and had to be replaced as well as the Eccentric Shaft. My theory is Eccentric Shaft started binding before purchasing car (2nd owner) in 2016. The ratchet clicking (actuator relearning) sound is not normal. If you have that sound every time you drive car after engine is cut off, expect fault code to eventually get thrown.
I agree the motor going bad was most likely due to the shaft binding up and causing the motor to pull too much amperage. If you have the ratcheting noise when unlocking the car (eccentric shaft does a reference run when the ecu is woken up) this is a tell tale sign the eccentric shaft is beginning to bind up. I have seen, only on one occasion, a binding shaft and failing motor actually burn up the driver in the ecu from pulling too much amperage. So if you have this noise or are setting faults I recommend repair asap to prevent more costly damage.
@@MunkysGarage So no sense just replacing the eccentric shaft motor by itself. What causes the shaft to bind up? bad needle bearings? Can you just replace them and keep the motor and shaft?
Thanks for the great video, just curious for the valvetronic run in, do you know what tools could do it basically as straight forward as possible? The info online isn't super clear, some even say its not needed.
I have always had access to the BMW scan tool to perform the run in service. I believe some of the other scan tools, such as Snap On or Matco, can do it as well. I'm just not sure. I have also never not done this run in procedure. Only because it is listed as follow up work in the BMW repair instructions. I'm sure you could get away with not doing it, but you may have problems. I'm just not sure on that point.
@@MunkysGarage ahh ok, are you scanning with INPA?
@@Kevgti5 The bmw software is called ISTA, or integrated service technical application. It allows me to pull fault codes, run test plans, activate things to check function, and also programs newer vehicles.
@@MunkysGarage Cool, thanks for the help. I'm just gearing up to do this job, really appreciate your vid and comments !
@@MunkysGarage hi I replaced my eccentric shaft sensor and valvetronic motor on my 06 530xit n52 engine, just installed ista d and p, can I use these to do a relearn? I haven't seen any good videos as of yet on it.
Nice work!! How many miles are on the car and was there any signs that lead up to the failure?
Car had around 115,000 miles on it. No previous signs before the failure. Sometimes before failure you will notice a ratcheting or clicking style noise when unlocking the car. This is due to the valvetronic motor attempting to due a reference run when the car wakes up. The ratcheting noise is caused by it binding up and not being able to move.
@@MunkysGarage Thanks for the info! Glad to see you put on some mileage before a large failure like this. Might I inquire what your driving habits are like and what the mileage was when you purchased the car?
I'm sorry but I cannot provide too much information on that front. This was a friends car and unfortunately he had purchased it a month prior from a used car lot. But from my experience doing this job in the past, I've done it on cars with as little as 85,000 miles on them. Not really sure what causes the failure of this component. Seeing as how it is bearing wear causing the issue I would have to say oil change frequency and how hard the car is driven would be significant contributing factors.
@@MunkysGarage It would seem that BMW with their long oil change intervals had planned on you having to buy another car sooner than later. There are many stories of engine part failure where lack of oil changing and hard driving are very possibly the problem.
@@AG-wi5bn On my F30 with the N55 that system broke around 40.000 miles, even tho it had hade yearly oil changes. A "hack" that can be done is to move the eccentric shafts teeth away from the valvetronic actuator wormgear, thus disabling the systemet. The car will just fall back on using the throttle body instead. Won't even set MIL-status, the previous owner ran the car like that for 25.000 miles and I have continues to do so for the 12.000 miles I have owned. The problem you get is if the valvetronic fails while open, then the engines won't start anymore.
Hi,
I have the clicking noise at lock/unlock. Does this mean I have to replace the shaft too, or just the motor?
I have done the relearn phrase and it’s passes with ease. Just have an issue with clicking and warm restart (rough idle or a stall within first 10 seconds of starting up after hot)
The clicking noise and rough running is caused by the shaft binding and not moving properly when commanded. Its hard to say exactly which part is faulty without looking at it. The fault could be the motor itself binding up and unable to move. It could also be the shaft binding up in the bearings it turns in inside the cylinder head. Both of these will cause the issues you are having. Inspection would be the only way to determine what the cause is.
i got a code p1030 valvetronic motor sluggish movement. i changed the motor ran ista to relearn the motor. started the car and got the codes p1030, 2dce and 2e0f. would replacing the shaft solve this or am i missing something?
Sounds like the shaft itself is mechanically binding.
Very helpful... Batter put Throuble code At The Title
Hi, I don't have any of the scan tools, so I was planning to have my local shop do the reprogramming for the VANOS motor and the injectors (I had to replace mine). Does anyone know if the car will start and drive with new injectors or will I need to have it towed to the shop?
It will start and run. But I would not advise driving it. The injector flow rates are what needs programmed into the engine ECU after replacement. If it is using the old injector flow rates with different injectors it could cause an issue where it flows too much fuel and hyrdolocks the engine.
@@MunkysGarage Thanks! Tow truck it is.
Hi, I have the problem on my 640xdrive (the noise when closing the doors), replaced the valvetronic engine but the shaft will still not go back all way up (it does go all the way done). BMW says it's possible the DME or could it also be the shaft itself ?
When the motor is switched off, the shaft should go all the way up (don't know it this is max or min), mine does.
At this up position, should the spring action be the smallest? iow should you be able to move the shaft with the allen hey without friction ?
How do you know the shaft has to be replaced ?
Thanks for the response.
I believe the shaft returns to minimum lift when the vehicle is off. I am not 100% sure if that is the up or down position, I believe it is the down position. When it is at maximum lift is when you will have the most spring tension trying to return the shaft to the lowest position. The shaft should be easy to move through its range with the allen key on the motor, but will have spring return if you let go of the allen key. It is hard to tell if the shaft is actually "bad". Many times on vehicles that are having issues I can still turn the shaft freely with the allen key and also with the motor removed by using the wrench spot at the end of the shaft. The issue is the motor is monitored by the computer for both position and amperage draw. When the computer sees amperage draw go over its pre-defined limit, it sets the fault and the system quits working. This pre-defined amperage draw may still allow movement of the shaft with tools, but the computer deems it is binding and it will not operate. Most of the time I see galling of the teeth either on the motor or the shaft, and this is usually an indication things are binding up causing the high amperage issue, and subsequent shut down of the system. It is common practice to replace all components of that system when servicing just to eliminate having to redo the repair again when it turns out it wasn't just a faulty motor. There have also been some instances where faults can be caused by a faulty wiring harness for the eccentric shaft motor, in these instances it sets faults for voltage(not sure of exact fault description), and not the ones addressed in this video for mechanically stiff or binding.
@@MunkysGarage Thank you for the quick response.
I have seen the shaft going all the way down by the servo motor (same direction before you can removed the servo) every time.
I understood at this point a lot (most ?) of force is needed , that would indicate the servo is working.
It's in the other direction that the shaft will not go the the end position (=when motor is off) every time.
I will check with an allan key if I can move the shaft all the way ...
Cables have been checked and the errors on the DME are not clear...
And no DME is on stock ...
What would happen if you don’t put the Eccentric shaft back to the open position before you complete the job? I recently had this job done and I’m experiencing issues. Any help would be appreciated.
It has to be at the no lift end stop to properly perform the learn end stop adjustment function after replacement. If you don't do the learn endstop service function after replacement it will not work the way it is designed.
@@MunkysGarage so when you say end stop you mean completely open to the very top/open position?
Excellent tutorial !!!!
Q: Did you use Genuine BMW parts throughout or some OE parts (ex, gaskets, shaft actuator, etc)?
I used all genuine BMW parts to do this repair. Haven't personally used any aftermarket parts for this job so I'm not too sure what to trust.
@@MunkysGarage I understand. Thanks for the reply and again great work on the video. This is one of the worst repairs that N55 owners might have to deal with.
@@johnclark7406 VDO is the original manufacturer for the actuator, as for the eccentric shaft, I believe only BMW manufactures theses, as they are made with extreme precision and not reusable for others since Valvetronic is BMW technology.
How do you know your whole eccentric shaft is out and not just the sensor?
There isn't really a way to tell if the shaft is what is causing the problem. The sensor is actually built into the motor. The gear on the motor and shaft get worn and can cause binding between them. There is a service bulletin from BMW saying if it has certain faults to replace the shaft and motor together. I believe it is just a bulletin giving you a blanket repair since they don't really know which is causing the problem. If you are trying to be cost effective I would say to replace the motor first, and recheck. In all of these I have done the gear on the motor always seemed more damaged and was most likely what was causing the issue.
If you replace the valvetronic sensor motor, do you have to replace eccentric shaft ?
You do not have to replace the eccentric shaft. Most of the issues with this system stem from problems with the motor itself. There are occasions where there is damage/ wear to eccentric shaft where it could cause issues. I have not seen that very much though. There is a service bulletin from BMW that references some of the faults that stem from eccentric shaft motor problems. In that service bulletin it states to replace all components of the system. The customer of the vehicle in this video got hold of the service bulletin and wanted to air on the side of caution and just prevent any future issues. If it were my car I would have replaced the eccentric shaft motor first and gone from there.
@@MunkysGarage thanks
@@MunkysGarage when im gonna replace my valvetronic can i see if the shaft is bad in any way? Like if i dont see any marks on it should i leave it alone? I randomly have only a shadowcode 135704 and my car is just running a little rough, sluggish at low rpms. Its a n55 with 88k miles on it. If i disconnect the valvetronic motor it runs better but not perfect obviously
I see some teeth are weared in my eccentric shaft. I want to see how bad is but it's blocked. When I crank the shaft doesn't turn. How can I turn the shaft and is it safe to do so?
If the eccentric shaft motor is still installed you will have to use a 4mm Allen bit to turn the motor worm gear from the top. This will then turn the eccentric shaft. If the motor is removed, there is a spot on the back of the eccentric ahaft that a 17mm open end wrench will fit over so you can turn it.
Great video. I’ve been avoiding this job due to the complexity of remove the springs and levers with the crazy job specific tool. This looks way more approachable. Question, does the actual eccentric shaft actually fail or could you do the motor, oil squirter and replace the bearings on the existing shaft?
I'm not 100% sure if the eccentric shaft is part of the problem. I have seen multiple times where there are wear marks on the shaft from it binding on the motor. I would be concerned that this would cause problems with the new motor if you just replaced the motor and oil nozzle. If there were no marks on the shaft I don't see why you couldn't just replace the bearings on it. There is a service bulletin from BMW to replace all three components if that fault is present. That is the only reason I replaced it on this car. If its your own car I would say its worth a shot. Just with a customers car its not good if it ends up coming back because you didn't replace the shaft as well.
@@MunkysGarage First off, thanks for the great video. Second, where do I look to determine if the eccentric shaft has been damaged? Am I looking at that big half-moon shaped portion with the teeth that engage the motor's worm gear? Third, can I do that inspection without removing the shaft?
Did you use a torque wrench on the caps?
I did I just didn't record that part. The torque on the cap bolts is 8Nm.
Hi I have a code 2dcf valvetronic system no movement identified” I’ve already replaced valvetronic motor but the car still will not start do you think it’s the eccentric shaft?
Is this a N55 Engine?
Munky & Rooster's Garage yes
@@RYAN151292 If you were in there to replace the motor you had to have moved the eccentric shaft to remove the motor. Did you feel any binding in the shaft when rotating it. It is most likely going to be a bearing for that shaft binding or the gear wheel on the shaft is galled up keeping the motor from being able to turn it.
Munky & Rooster's Garage thanks for the reply yes when I’ve replaced the valvetronic motor didn’t feel any binding on the shaft just tension it moves pretty free. The problem is I cannot get the valvetronic motor to spin at all it won’t move ?
@@RYAN151292 The new one or the old one? You tried turning it by the allen in the end of the shaft correct?
Great video!!!!!!!!
Any chance of checking my videos.
I’ve lost of power and having a hard time getting it started. I have a 320i with the N20 which is basically same design as n55 minus 2 cylinders. When cranking It sounds like the valves are full open at crank and no compression. But then it may start first time, but no revs or power.
I’ve had a clicking noise a few times and now the car has lost all power and won’t rev about 1500rpm it’s been clicking quite a lot.
No codes or lights on the dash. Will use Ista to scan it once I’ve finished installing it.
Ever seen the motor fail so much that it won’t start up or rev well? Or other issue?
Be great if you’ve seen this before?
I have definitely seen a failed eccentric shaft system cause a no start issue. With the N20 and N55 engine, the computer slightly opens the throttle and uses valve lift for throttle control until the valves are at maximum lift, and then returns to using the throttle plate. When you unlock the vehicle the eccentric shaft motor performs a reference run. If this motor and shaft get stuck anywhere during that run other than at the minimum lift end stop, the engine can do a myriad of weird things. Including not starting as well as having no power down low. Usually when you are hearing the clicking noise it is due to faulty motor. As has been discussed in length previously the eccentric shaft itself does not normally have to be replaced. The only reason it was replaced in my video was due to service bulletin from BMW stating to replace all components of this system if there are any issues. The customer wanted to cover all the bases and make sure he wouldn't have any further issues.
@@MunkysGarage thanks for the reply. Ordered all the parts, but didn’t order the decoupling elements for the injectors, just going to do the seals.
Did you replace the seals and decoupling elements? Mine have done 101k so might be worth replacing I suspect?
Thanks
Can i ask how long this took you?
Usually takes me 3-4 hours.
how long it will take for a tec to do it and can u give part info u change and coast to you .thanks for good info very help full
Doing it the way I did in this video it only takes about 3-4 hours. May take longer for someone doing it the first time. Updated description to include part numbers.
before removing shaft to change bearing did u hold spring loaded bar with something or it stay it self?
As long as you are careful and don't bump anything the spring loaded followers will stay in place when removing the shaft.
Need help bad you have a contact ?
Contact info is in the about section on my channel.
I was told this might be a stripped vanos gear. Is it possible this knock is from the valvetronic eccentric shaft? Frequency is 1/2 crank rpm. Warning it's an ugly sound ua-cam.com/video/-w6j43aW3l4/v-deo.html
Definitely not eccentric shaft noise. The vanos gears have an issue where the bolts on the back come loose and back out. This could be noise from them hitting the cam bearing cap. But in all honesty it sounds like a spun rod bearing. Which the n55 is notorious for as well.
@@MunkysGarage Thanks for the response! "Apparently" the noise is new and the timing chain was recently replaced. I'm sure that the knock only happens 1000xpm at 2000rpm and 1500xpm at 3000rpm etc--slowmo video and audio is incredible. Is it possible the rod knock could only be audible on every other stroke?
It's worth taking a look to make sure it isn't a vanos problem. It is definitely possible for a rod knock to not be 100% in sync with engine speed. I actually have an n55 torn down right now getting a new crank and bearings (cheaper than buying a used engine) that the noise would come and go oddly. I could even get it to go away completely at a certain engine speed.
@@MunkysGarage Confirmed rod bearing. Getting replaced next week. Let's hope crank is round enough.