I really like the results of your labor, and filling the factory joints will pay huge dividends when it is time for the show season. As always, great job.
@@BusyAsABeaver72 Thanks. I was thinking the same thing. I am sure those guys were really proficient but wow is it a lot of work compared to plastic body filler.
Nice work Mark! You’re motivating me to lead a couple of trouble spots on Pops. All the joints where the roof assembly meets the pillars are leaded. In one of those joints the lead is missing. Might be fun to practice this skill. We shall see. Picked up the front fenders and running boards from Bo this week. They look great. Just the hood remains to be done. Thanks so much for the great videos and the attention to detail. It keeps me honest.
If I can do it Robert you can. Watch your heat and keep the flame pretty small, it doesn't take much. Good news on the fenders and running boards for sure. You are lucky to be so close and stage all this so you can prep and epoxy as they are ready.
Amazing work mark! I have watched every video in this series now, and caught up on your progress. I'm currently working on my "72 Chevelle. I wish I would have had my car dipped. I've been manually stripping the body for several months. I do most of my work on my weekends off, and also for a couple hours after work during the week if I get home at a decent time. I already did the frame and the underside of the body. I built a wooden body cart so that I could get the body elevated and roll the frame under the body to store it, as I don't have a dedicated shop. I'm working out of my garage, so I needed to be smart as I park my daily rider Honda Goldwing in the garage every night. It's been a long process. Body is back mounted on the frame and I have removed all the outer skins and other body parts as there was a great deal of rust throughout the car on the inside that you couldn't see behind the panels. I have peeled back the onion. Hope to have the stripping completed today or tomorrow, so that I can start the metal work to repair the damage I did while removing spot welds, make a few patch panels, and start fitting the the replacement skins. Got some damage to the front passenger side roof frame above and to the rear of the A pillar. Something heavy fell on the roof at some point in its history. Someone used a ton of body filler to hide the damage to the roof and many other places on the body rather than fixing it properly. I cant wait to start reassembling.
@@danaszalajeski4416 Definitely a worthwhile build Dana. I have stripped more cars than I care to remember that way and no matter how you do it the suck factor is still very high. At least you are almost done. Hope you can finish the dirty work this weekend and move on.
Mark in the 1% because 99%of us would have puttied that goes to show the quality of his work im using a lot of his tips on my 65 impala and 67 lemans i have taken over nice work mark
Thanks Brittney. There is a place for body filler but I wanted to do the best job I could in these areas. Having fought them in the past on other peoples cars gave me a lot of incentive to not go down that path on Ruby.
Thanks for the video Mark. I learn a lot watching them. I need to learn to do this on my 53 3100. I like the idea of lead for any high stress area. Painting is too much time and money to take a chance on it cracking. I have worked with lead before but not on a vehicle. Thank you for your time.
Thanks, there is not a lot of lead on your 53 that I recall from the factory but there is some. The doors fit so poorly on those trucks so that will probably be where a lot of your time will be spent and lead could help. Best of all lead does not shrink like body filler does.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication It just makes more sense to me but I grew up around it. I think Bondo was around but it was crappy quality back then and considered low quality work like Earl Scheib was. A few years back one of my construction company employees inherited his dad's house and in his shop was a lot of leading stuff. He was afraid of it and ask if I wanted it and said if I picked it up I could have it. There was over 150# of lead sticks alone. It's been sitting in the shop since then. I'm doing the final sanding on my steering today and hope to paint it this weekend.
@@lazyhoundracing9621 I paid 90 bucks for 2 1/2 pounds so you have over 5 grand in lead laying around if my math is correct. Bondo was the first retail available body filler and it was over used by everyone as a easy fix all no matter how thick it was. We all know better now. Body fillers come in all types now and are very useful if not misused. You have plenty of lead to practice with that is for sure. Finishing up the steering will feel nice I am sure, what's next?
I really like the results of your labor, and filling the factory joints will pay huge dividends when it is time for the show season. As always, great job.
Thanks Steve, all this up front work should pay off soon I hope.
Watching this I can't imagine the old days and building the "lead sleds" of the '50's. Very good results Mark.
@@BusyAsABeaver72 Thanks. I was thinking the same thing. I am sure those guys were really proficient but wow is it a lot of work compared to plastic body filler.
Nice work Mark! You’re motivating me to lead a couple of trouble spots on Pops. All the joints where the roof assembly meets the pillars are leaded. In one of those joints the lead is missing. Might be fun to practice this skill. We shall see.
Picked up the front fenders and running boards from Bo this week. They look great. Just the hood remains to be done.
Thanks so much for the great videos and the attention to detail. It keeps me honest.
If I can do it Robert you can. Watch your heat and keep the flame pretty small, it doesn't take much. Good news on the fenders and running boards for sure. You are lucky to be so close and stage all this so you can prep and epoxy as they are ready.
Amazing work mark! I have watched every video in this series now, and caught up on your progress. I'm currently working on my "72 Chevelle. I wish I would have had my car dipped. I've been manually stripping the body for several months. I do most of my work on my weekends off, and also for a couple hours after work during the week if I get home at a decent time. I already did the frame and the underside of the body. I built a wooden body cart so that I could get the body elevated and roll the frame under the body to store it, as I don't have a dedicated shop. I'm working out of my garage, so I needed to be smart as I park my daily rider Honda Goldwing in the garage every night. It's been a long process. Body is back mounted on the frame and I have removed all the outer skins and other body parts as there was a great deal of rust throughout the car on the inside that you couldn't see behind the panels. I have peeled back the onion. Hope to have the stripping completed today or tomorrow, so that I can start the metal work to repair the damage I did while removing spot welds, make a few patch panels, and start fitting the the replacement skins. Got some damage to the front passenger side roof frame above and to the rear of the A pillar. Something heavy fell on the roof at some point in its history. Someone used a ton of body filler to hide the damage to the roof and many other places on the body rather than fixing it properly. I cant wait to start reassembling.
@@danaszalajeski4416 Definitely a worthwhile build Dana. I have stripped more cars than I care to remember that way and no matter how you do it the suck factor is still very high. At least you are almost done.
Hope you can finish the dirty work this weekend and move on.
Great attention to detail
@@charlieseidelmann6702 Thanks Charlie. It feels good to get this done and move forward.
Mark in the 1% because 99%of us would have puttied that goes to show the quality of his work im using a lot of his tips on my 65 impala and 67 lemans i have taken over nice work mark
Thanks Brittney. There is a place for body filler but I wanted to do the best job I could in these areas. Having fought them in the past on other peoples cars gave me a lot of incentive to not go down that path on Ruby.
Thanks for the video Mark. I learn a lot watching them. I need to learn to do this on my 53 3100. I like the idea of lead for any high stress area. Painting is too much time and money to take a chance on it cracking. I have worked with lead before but not on a vehicle. Thank you for your time.
Thanks, there is not a lot of lead on your 53 that I recall from the factory but there is some. The doors fit so poorly on those trucks so that will probably be where a lot of your time will be spent and lead could help. Best of all lead does not shrink like body filler does.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication It just makes more sense to me but I grew up around it. I think Bondo was around but it was crappy quality back then and considered low quality work like Earl Scheib was. A few years back one of my construction company employees inherited his dad's house and in his shop was a lot of leading stuff. He was afraid of it and ask if I wanted it and said if I picked it up I could have it. There was over 150# of lead sticks alone. It's been sitting in the shop since then. I'm doing the final sanding on my steering today and hope to paint it this weekend.
@@lazyhoundracing9621 I paid 90 bucks for 2 1/2 pounds so you have over 5 grand in lead laying around if my math is correct.
Bondo was the first retail available body filler and it was over used by everyone as a easy fix all no matter how thick it was. We all know better now. Body fillers come in all types now and are very useful if not misused.
You have plenty of lead to practice with that is for sure.
Finishing up the steering will feel nice I am sure, what's next?