As a young guy this was my first handgun and all the gun shop workers were surprised that I wanted one. Almost everyone my age buy semiautomatics only, the Glock primarily. Hopefully people notice these more and not give it the cold shoulder treatment. I have this paired up with an HKS 36A speed loader holster that holds two speed loaders, and some Bianchi speed strips.
@@scratchadams When I was 10 yrs old my dream was to play first base for the Washington Senators. I had everything going for me except major league talent, and I’m too damn old now.
I wouldn’t carry one these days because if you get into a shooting situation most likely you will be outgunned. Most thugs have glocks . Good lamp shade gun though 😐
Just got a 442 recently, it's my first revolver. Plenty of experience with auto pistols and figured the maintenance was about the same, but I learned a lot from this video, thank you.
You can apply a thin layer of clear nail polish on your carry gun screw heads that gets sweat on them to keep them from getting rusty , especially the grip screw heads .
Great video! There are a lot of new gun owners out there. If you take care of them, they'll last forever! Use oils that are made for guns! A guy wanted me to look at a pistol that he said didn't work. I took it home. The first thing I noticed was everything was seized up. I got it apart very carefully! There was a round in it! I just oiled and scrubbed it. There was a sticky substance on all the internal parts. Even the safety was seized up. I never figured out what it was but it all came off and the gun works fine now. A friend told me people will use crisco or whatever they have around the house. Gun oils and cleaners aren't that expensive!
Nice video, straight and to the point. Respectfully - Use caution when oiling the underside of the extractor and the recess it sits in. My practice is only one drop, pump the extractor rod a few times to distribute the oil, then wipe the area dry with a clean dry patch. Oil in that area has a tendancy to attract and retain unburned propellant flakes making closing the cylinder or pulling the trigger very hard or impossible. Shorter barreled revolvers are especially prone to this.
I recently picked up a Charter Arms Undercoverette in .32 H&R Magnum. I gave it a once-over before firing it, but had missed a couple points that you mention here. It's very similar to the J-frame Smith and Wesson, to the point that J-frame holsters fit it well. The .32 H&R is a flat-shooting round, or so many people tell me, and I like having that sixth round in the cylinder. After a hundred rounds or so, it was time for a good cleaning and careful lubrication. Since I plan for this to be a carry piece, seeing this video helped me find a couple nooks and crannies to keep tidy.
Awesome!! I never thought about that taking out the grips of my revolver and lube the screws ... great point because of the sweat makes a lot sense .... Thank you for this awesome videos
Glad to hear your EDC is a .38 Snubby. I thought I was the only one...just kidding I have a Taurus 85 SS "Hammerless" and it's just a great EDC w/ a DeSantis Gunhide pocket holster. Thanks for the maintenance tips.
NOTE **if you have a revolver with a titanium cylinder.. only use a nylon bristle brush & NO harsh solvents.. it could damage the coating on the titanium cylinder and cause premature wear
Everyone always shits on the revolver. Good to see you carry one too Mick. I carry the Smith 642 as my backup , I am left handed so it rides off hand side OWB. Primary is my gen 4 Glock 27 riding in my appendix rig. Those j frame triggers are stout man.
For rusty screws, drop into a cup/bowl/container with just enough apple cider vinegar to cover. Let sit until you see a discolored "foam" start to form at the surface as the rust particles are loosened from the metal surface. Remove and dry well, brush with medium bristle toothbrush and arm and hammer toothpaste. Polish them up with a soft cloth. You'll be amazed. For stubborn rust, use fine grit sandpaper carefully, so as not to scar the surface or remove materials that may damage the screw slots. Just enough to grab any embedded rust and remove it. Then repeat in the ACV to polish steps. Add oil as the final step as he says in the video. I've used this on truck wheels, outside engine parts (intakes, brackets, water pump casing, etc.) and even a large cast iron skillet I found buried in the yard at the farm. It took three passes with the ACV and a lot of elbow grease but I'm still using the skillet to this day with no rust. When in doubt, do a test with an extra screw. See if it works on that particular material first. If so, proceed. If not, well...stick to the oil and wipe.
Starts off like Mr. Rogers meets hand guns. See this, it moves, you should oil it. Thank you for the brush idea. I had some very expensive 1” brushes that have been in a tool box for 25 years and now for a month it’s in my gun cleaning kit
Carry a 442 everyday. I take my side plate off, did an action job, apex tactical spring kit and hogue tamer grips. Carry a 351 22 magnum as a backup. Love the smiths but buying a colt night cobra soon.
I'd be curious to know if you have any strong opinions about graphite as a lubricant, whether administered dry or in a solution like LockLube. Most locksmiths swear that mechanical locks should be lubricated by graphite only, or a graphite solution that evaporates dry. What do gunsmiths think?
He puts way too much oil on a j-frame. Makes me think he doesn’t know what he’s doing. Just being WAAAAAY TOO MUCH oil for a J-Frame. There was more oil on that gun, than what spilled out from the Exxon Valdez. Talk about attracting more dirt, lint and grime! Ridiculous. Popularity on UA-cam is NOT an indicator of one’s knowledge.
@@craigfinley2507 Where the cylinder swings out and is attached to the frame… one tiny drop and that’s it for a revolver. Wipe the gun down with an oily rag when done cleaning it overall. It’s better to use a synthetic gun oil, as it’s a preservative against rust. Keep motor oil for “motors.”
while my grips are off, I invert the centennial & put 1 drop of oil into the internals & let the oil work through (some will leech out around the side plate & under the cylinder release); my bodyguard gets similar but with hammer cocked & 2 drops of oil into internals; I lube other areas as shown
Hey Mick, what holsters do you recommend for the 642? Just bought one for a run to the mailbox/store gun, and want something IWB that's simple and quick to throw on.
Look into an ulticlip holster. The clip will clamp onto your pants or shorts or whatever you're wearing. No belt neccesary. I use one for my snubby and it's a great holster
What about the latch & spring inside the cylinder? You know, the one that holds the cylinder in place, especially in those S&W revolvers? I mean, if the latch is rusty and and fails to come out of the cylinder it won't hold the cylinder in place properly right? I surely wouldn't want to have the cylinder get loose out of the frame when shooting a revolver.
Go to a glove manufacturer's website. If they are equipped with a brain, they show you a table to what their gloves can resist and maybe even how long. If you can't find it on the manufacturer's website as a download or page, search for the institution in your country that handles everything regarding chemical safety. They'll have material pair ups. These look like nitrile gloves.
I loaded up this video to see if I was lubing my 38 correctly and he did literally everything I have already been doing. Guess I did it right from the start.
When you carry your revolver , do you keep it with no bullet under the hammer ? Thinking about carrying my 856 but manual recommends carrying one less bullet.
No you can carry fully loaded. Most modern revolvers including your 856 use a transfer bar safety which allows safe carry fully loaded. The quick description is the hammer can never touch the primer until the trigger is pulled. There is always a space between the hammer and the bullet until you pull the trigger at that point the transfer bar moves up into position the hammer then strikes that.
Not really You could be facing multiple threats and or miss in that situation. A 38 special can also be stopped pretty easily from soft body armor. In this day and age it’s more of a backup edc weapon but in most cases 5 should be enough
I just bought this gun so this is pretty informative! However I’m not going any further than this I’m not comfortable taking the whole thing apart. How often should you bring a gun like this to a qualified tech?
Nice video. If you're not taking the gun completely down, use an air can and gently blow some of the oil that you applied up into the unexposed parts. 👍
Hey! I received my Lube in the mail at the beginning of this week I must say it is the best lube I have used ! That stuff really Rock's brother thank you! By the way I loved the little Target you added to my shipment LOL I am a cheapskate so I am very cautious and weary of even the smallest purchase I make but I must say I am more than pleased with your product.
So, I suppose the oil you are using is household Mineral Oil being that it is thin, clear, food safe, and doesn’t degrade over time. Just an educated guess. Quite a few “in the know” people recommend mineral oil for areas which are not “high velocity” moving parts (aka: not for use on semi auto slide rails, barrel linkage, barrel bushings, etc). Low velocity moving parts like revolver trigger assemblies, cylinders, cylinder crains, hammer pivots, etc are fine to use Mineral Oil and you don’t have to worry about it reacting with certain finishes and plastic parts like some petroleum based oils. Be safe out there.
Modern guns aren't not the guns of long ago. Will snap caps hurt? Nope by all means toss some in. I've watched too many champion level guys dry fire the snot out of modern guns with none, and I've done it myself to argue for it
The oil would not cause that issue alone. Remove the cylinder from the shaft clean and relube. They will get carbon and soot which will be the cause of the drag you are feeling.
@@MDMiller60 Pretty easy first remove the small screw on the right side of gun above trigger guard this will allow you to remove the crane and cylinder from the frame. At that point just pull the cylinder of the crane. Crane is the part you see pivot when you open and close cylinder. it is located at the bottom front of frame. Good luck super easy to do
Note that this guy pressed the trigger six times before he thought to check the chambers. Sorta like shutting the barn door after the horse has run out.
I will say that he has good taste in ammunition. Super Vel has been around since the sixties. I used their high performance stuff in San Jose, CA, and so did most other officers on SJPD. I'd thought they'd disappeared, but they're still busily turning out both high performance and practice ammunition. Their 115 grain practice ammo works really well.
Don't say everything that's made from metal needs lubrication like a dogma while you say yourself that there are parts you shouldn't lube. That's confusing.
WAAAAAY TOO MUCH oil for a J-Frame. There was more oil on that gun, than what spilled out from the Exxon Valdez. Talk about attracting more dirt, lint and grime! Ridiculous.
This is simply not good info. The guy has to do this once a week because if it’s carried at all that oily mess will be covered in lint and crud. And do NOT oil the ejector rod. Do you even revolver or just make videos? Seriously take a revolver class from someone with experience
You sir a wrong you absolutely can and should oil the ejector rod. Yes I have taken many classes over my 50+ years of shooting and hundreds of thousands of rounds down range. We all do our cleaning and lubricating a little differently. I can promise you that amount of lube will never be a lint issue on a j frame or any other gun.
Glad to see another J Frame as an EDC. I started carrying mine in my 1968 rookie year and continue to carry one in retirement.
As a young guy this was my first handgun and all the gun shop workers were surprised that I wanted one. Almost everyone my age buy semiautomatics only, the Glock primarily. Hopefully people notice these more and not give it the cold shoulder treatment. I have this paired up with an HKS 36A speed loader holster that holds two speed loaders, and some Bianchi speed strips.
Rookie year in the MLB?
@@scratchadams When I was 10 yrs old my dream was to play first base for the Washington Senators. I had everything going for me except major league talent, and I’m too damn old now.
@@artyom2108 I constantly catch shit from younger guys for carrying one of these instead of a semi auto pistol.
I wouldn’t carry one these days because if you get into a shooting situation most likely you will be outgunned. Most thugs have glocks . Good lamp shade gun though 😐
Just got a 442 recently, it's my first revolver.
Plenty of experience with auto pistols and figured the maintenance was about the same, but I learned a lot from this video, thank you.
Would you put oil in the cylinders to make the bullet come out faster?
You can apply a thin layer of clear nail polish on your carry gun screw heads that gets sweat on them to keep them from getting rusty , especially the grip screw heads .
what a great tip!
Great video! There are a lot of new gun owners out there. If you take care of them, they'll last forever! Use oils that are made for guns! A guy wanted me to look at a pistol that he said didn't work. I took it home. The first thing I noticed was everything was seized up. I got it apart very carefully! There was a round in it! I just oiled and scrubbed it. There was a sticky substance on all the internal parts. Even the safety was seized up. I never figured out what it was but it all came off and the gun works fine now. A friend told me people will use crisco or whatever they have around the house. Gun oils and cleaners aren't that expensive!
Nice video, straight and to the point.
Respectfully - Use caution when oiling the underside of the extractor and the recess it sits in. My practice is only one drop, pump the extractor rod a few times to distribute the oil, then wipe the area dry with a clean dry patch. Oil in that area has a tendancy to attract and retain unburned propellant flakes making closing the cylinder or pulling the trigger very hard or impossible. Shorter barreled revolvers are especially prone to this.
I recently picked up a Charter Arms Undercoverette in .32 H&R Magnum. I gave it a once-over before firing it, but had missed a couple points that you mention here.
It's very similar to the J-frame Smith and Wesson, to the point that J-frame holsters fit it well. The .32 H&R is a flat-shooting round, or so many people tell me, and I like having that sixth round in the cylinder.
After a hundred rounds or so, it was time for a good cleaning and careful lubrication. Since I plan for this to be a carry piece, seeing this video helped me find a couple nooks and crannies to keep tidy.
Good video. I just oiled my Kimber K6 for the first time. It was always a watch-like machine, but now--wow!
I oil my revolvers in the exact same place as you do. And wipe off excess as well. Nice job.
How often is it needed
Awesome!! I never thought about that taking out the grips of my revolver and lube the screws ... great point because of the sweat makes a lot sense .... Thank you for this awesome videos
The Bob Ross of gun care!
Hahahahaha. I'll accept that moniker.
This was EXTREMELY relaxing to watch; and I learned a lot!
Not just a J frame. This would work well for just about any revolver. I saw a similar video with a Taurus model 82 (S&W model 10 clone) Great info!
Glad to hear your EDC is a .38 Snubby. I thought I was the only one...just kidding I have a Taurus 85 SS "Hammerless" and it's just a great EDC w/ a DeSantis Gunhide pocket holster. Thanks for the maintenance tips.
may i ask how you're liking the taurus? looking into hamerless revolvers such as this
Great video, definitely learned a lot that I didn’t about how to oil my 642. Thank you, love from Arizona
Hey Luv - Here’s a wave off. Call Ruger for their advice over the phone. Never oil a gun. Cheers
Remember; don't oil it like you oil your grill. Barely a drop will go a million miles
NOTE **if you have a revolver with a titanium cylinder.. only use a nylon bristle brush & NO harsh solvents.. it could damage the coating on the titanium cylinder and cause premature wear
Great video. Simple and easy. Thank you for making this. Very well done. ❤
Very well presented! Thank you for sharing.
Everyone always shits on the revolver. Good to see you carry one too Mick. I carry the Smith 642 as my backup , I am left handed so it rides off hand side OWB. Primary is my gen 4 Glock 27 riding in my appendix rig. Those j frame triggers are stout man.
you can mail me privately h
I love my airweight
For rusty screws, drop into a cup/bowl/container with just enough apple cider vinegar to cover. Let sit until you see a discolored "foam" start to form at the surface as the rust particles are loosened from the metal surface. Remove and dry well, brush with medium bristle toothbrush and arm and hammer toothpaste. Polish them up with a soft cloth. You'll be amazed. For stubborn rust, use fine grit sandpaper carefully, so as not to scar the surface or remove materials that may damage the screw slots. Just enough to grab any embedded rust and remove it. Then repeat in the ACV to polish steps. Add oil as the final step as he says in the video.
I've used this on truck wheels, outside engine parts (intakes, brackets, water pump casing, etc.) and even a large cast iron skillet I found buried in the yard at the farm. It took three passes with the ACV and a lot of elbow grease but I'm still using the skillet to this day with no rust. When in doubt, do a test with an extra screw. See if it works on that particular material first. If so, proceed. If not, well...stick to the oil and wipe.
...too acidic. Just use a small brass/steel brush. Then apply film of oil. (I speak of very small GUN parts).
or wipe it for two seconds with a brush or light sandpaper like this guy did
The screws aren’t that important to do all that
or just get a new screw for 10 cents.
Fhank you for that information i was missing a lot of things that needed oiling on my wife's 38.
Thank you for the video Sir. Very informative as always! Have a wonderful day!
Starts off like Mr. Rogers meets hand guns. See this, it moves, you should oil it. Thank you for the brush idea. I had some very expensive 1” brushes that have been in a tool box for 25 years and now for a month it’s in my gun cleaning kit
Carry a 442 everyday. I take my side plate off, did an action job, apex tactical spring kit and hogue tamer grips. Carry a 351 22 magnum as a backup. Love the smiths but buying a colt night cobra soon.
Sir the line on the celnyder let you know the stop is working. You can ask SMITH &WESSON THEY WILL TELL YOU 👍🏿
Those Smith and wessons they're so light they kick like hell even j frames, get a ruger SP101 don't deny yourself the best
You guys are oiling your smiths?
I'd be curious to know if you have any strong opinions about graphite as a lubricant, whether administered dry or in a solution like LockLube. Most locksmiths swear that mechanical locks should be lubricated by graphite only, or a graphite solution that evaporates dry. What do gunsmiths think?
I worked with graphite as a locksmith and it tends to attract dirt and grime. I would not advise
Awesome! Thank You! Love Your demeanor. Good man.
How do you clean barrel and bullet housing?
Thanks. I just picked up a M&P 340
Nice job. Thanks for sharing!
Mick is the Bob Ross of gun oiling. Happy little drop of oil over here.
Shut up bro, that comment stopped being funny a long time ago.
@@rayburn8282 damn bro, who hurt you?
He puts way too much oil on a j-frame. Makes me think he doesn’t know what he’s doing. Just being WAAAAAY TOO MUCH oil for a J-Frame. There was more oil on that gun, than what spilled out from the Exxon Valdez. Talk about attracting more dirt, lint and grime! Ridiculous. Popularity on UA-cam is NOT an indicator of one’s knowledge.
@@colt10mmsecurity68where are the places I should oil my revolver ,,and is it ok to use synthetic motor oil
@@craigfinley2507 Where the cylinder swings out and is attached to the frame… one tiny drop and that’s it for a revolver. Wipe the gun down with an oily rag when done cleaning it overall. It’s better to use a synthetic gun oil, as it’s a preservative against rust. Keep motor oil for “motors.”
while my grips are off, I invert the centennial & put 1 drop of oil into the internals & let the oil work through (some will leech out around the side plate & under the cylinder release); my bodyguard gets similar but with hammer cocked & 2 drops of oil into internals; I lube other areas as shown
Great video Sir, Thank you!
What can I use to clean the aluminum frame on a 642? I've read that Hoppes elite is not good on aluminum.......any thoughts
Gunfighteroil.com
Helpful video. Thanks.
Awesome video, helped me a bunch
THANKS, EXCELLENT PRESENTATION
Hey Mick, what holsters do you recommend for the 642? Just bought one for a run to the mailbox/store gun, and want something IWB that's simple and quick to throw on.
Look into an ulticlip holster. The clip will clamp onto your pants or shorts or whatever you're wearing. No belt neccesary. I use one for my snubby and it's a great holster
One of my 642's rides on my hip in an open top Galco leather Concealable holster. One of the best OWB holsters in my opinion.
What about the latch & spring inside the cylinder? You know, the one that holds the cylinder in place, especially in those S&W revolvers? I mean, if the latch is rusty and and fails to come out of the cylinder it won't hold the cylinder in place properly right?
I surely wouldn't want to have the cylinder get loose out of the frame when shooting a revolver.
I do oil there
...yes, lubricant is most important but a 'coating' of oil on all metal surfaces is also important.
and for all/most revolvers? meaning areas to lube can i just lube all contact points and avoid firering pin areas
Excellent video, very informative! Thank you!
Thanks bro helped a lot
What kind of gloves are you wearing while you clean the gun? Do they stand up to cleaning solvents?
Go to a glove manufacturer's website. If they are equipped with a brain, they show you a table to what their gloves can resist and maybe even how long. If you can't find it on the manufacturer's website as a download or page, search for the institution in your country that handles everything regarding chemical safety. They'll have material pair ups. These look like nitrile gloves.
@@onpsxmember Thank you!
Very cool. Thankyou.
superb tutorial many thanks
Gun Safty is #1 and the better u know side practice it the Less it seems you are actually performing it because it becomes Natural.
I loaded up this video to see if I was lubing my 38 correctly and he did literally everything I have already been doing. Guess I did it right from the start.
Appreciate the info! Thanks!
Off topic question, what gloves do you recommend to clean the revolver?
Nitrile
For those of us that have to carry a revolver, do you ever do any training with revolvers?
Of course !
@@The_BlackFish you would know this how?
I was at the range yesterday and shot both my Taurus model 85 and S&W model 15.
Could you do a video on oiling a pistol carbine?
Good "K.I.S.S." video. Just got my 'GF Oil', looking forward to using it on my 442, LCP & 1911.
Be well .... 🤙🏽
How much is gun fighters oil
When you carry your revolver , do you keep it with no bullet under the hammer ? Thinking about carrying my 856 but manual recommends carrying one less bullet.
No you can carry fully loaded. Most modern revolvers including your 856 use a transfer bar safety which allows safe carry fully loaded. The quick description is the hammer can never touch the primer until the trigger is pulled. There is always a space between the hammer and the bullet until you pull the trigger at that point the transfer bar moves up into position the hammer then strikes that.
Best self defense EDC there is. 5 is more than enough if you what you're doing.
Not really
You could be facing multiple threats and or miss in that situation. A 38 special can also be stopped pretty easily from soft body armor. In this day and age it’s more of a backup edc weapon but in most cases 5 should be enough
I just bought this gun so this is pretty informative! However I’m not going any further than this I’m not comfortable taking the whole thing apart. How often should you bring a gun like this to a qualified tech?
Check with manufacturer
@@CarryTrainer can I use hair clipper oil, one is in little tube the other is a spray on lube. Let me know. Thanks
Great channel. I will pass it on to my fam & friends. Thanks! God Bless.
The firing pin and barrel is the most important part to me.
you can mail me privately h
The grip is more important.
Nice video. If you're not taking the gun completely down, use an air can and gently blow some of the oil that you applied up into the unexposed parts. 👍
Won't that act as a lint magnet and gum up your internals
That's why u use as little oil as possible. Less is more.
Good lube tips! Thank you 🇺🇸🙏🇺🇸
I love how he doesn't care about dry firing that wheelie
Why would he?
its a good video but cant see as you don’t zoom in when you add oil.
Hey! I received my Lube in the mail at the beginning of this week I must say it is the best lube I have used ! That stuff really Rock's brother thank you! By the way I loved the little Target you added to my shipment LOL I am a cheapskate so I am very cautious and weary of even the smallest purchase I make but I must say I am more than pleased with your product.
good video
Super Vel ammunition- I wish that stuff was still around lol
I carry the same gun
Nice video, but show me your skills with a muskie reel and I'll be really impressed.
Ha
Use snap caps
Good videos
I am so glad you didn’t pint the muzzle at yourself. Good god!
Weird. Why would I do that?
@@CarryTrainer because it is dangerous! Cleaning an empty and opened revolver is dangerous. I am so happy you are still alive.
Thanks for the video, but you did not tell us where not to oil.
By default, don't oil anywhere he didn't? Wow...
“A drop of there” where? No description of exactly where he is lubricating.
You needed summer school as a kid, am I right?
So, I suppose the oil you are using is household Mineral Oil being that it is thin, clear, food safe, and doesn’t degrade over time. Just an educated guess. Quite a few “in the know” people recommend mineral oil for areas which are not “high velocity” moving parts (aka: not for use on semi auto slide rails, barrel linkage, barrel bushings, etc). Low velocity moving parts like revolver trigger assemblies, cylinders, cylinder crains, hammer pivots, etc are fine to use Mineral Oil and you don’t have to worry about it reacting with certain finishes and plastic parts like some petroleum based oils. Be safe out there.
We do not use mineral oil. GunFighter oil is a synthetic lubricant.
@@CarryTraineris it ok to use mobile 1 synthetic motor oil
Great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
No snap caps for dry firing?
Naw
@@CarryTrainerwhen dry firing is it ok to use empty shells
Modern guns aren't not the guns of long ago. Will snap caps hurt? Nope by all means toss some in. I've watched too many champion level guys dry fire the snot out of modern guns with none, and I've done it myself to argue for it
@@CarryTrainer what about rimfire tho?
@sergsrt8 that's another story. Dryfire is not recommended for rimfire.
I oiled the cylinder shaft where it meets the cylinder and now the cylinder doesn't spin freely.
The oil would not cause that issue alone. Remove the cylinder from the shaft clean and relube. They will get carbon and soot which will be the cause of the drag you are feeling.
I take my cylinder off after every range session and wipe it down and re oil. It’s my carry so I always do a deep clean
@@barefootbob1269 Have to find out how to do that.
@@Jx12346 Have to find out how to do that.
@@MDMiller60 Pretty easy first remove the small screw on the right side of gun above trigger guard this will allow you to remove the crane and cylinder from the frame. At that point just pull the cylinder of the crane. Crane is the part you see pivot when you open and close cylinder. it is located at the bottom front of frame. Good luck super easy to do
Just one screw to pull the crane….
How many of you caught the Wizard of Oz reference?
Is it ok to use hair clipper oil
Thanks CT. Great job. Good info.
LETS GO BRANDON
Your supposed to oil it ?!?!?
Yes, YOU"RE supposed to clean and lubricate YOUR firearm...
Is mineral oil ok for the moving parts
Never ever lube an S&W.
How to lube a snubby....yes sir..
He reminds me of Bob Ross the way he talks.
Ok , comon sense guys !😏
According to the military arms channel the j frame is a terrible choice for concealed carry. What do you guys think?
Hahaha 😅😅😅
Can you imagine?
Many people would disagree and that's A-Ok
@@CarryTrainer I love mine for pocket carry
Note that this guy pressed the trigger six times before he thought to check the chambers. Sorta like shutting the barn door after the horse has run out.
Hilarious. I was just working the action.
Agreed. The usual practice is check to see if it's loaded BEFORE dry-firing... If the gun fires when you're dry firing, then you ain't dry firing!
I can't imagine he would check the gun before recording just in case some idiot has a break down over something trivial 😂
@@goateecusbilly1823 Are you trying to be a wee bit facetious? I'll stick with Gunsite Doctrine. It works.
I will say that he has good taste in ammunition. Super Vel has been around since the sixties. I used their high performance stuff in San Jose, CA, and so did most other officers on SJPD. I'd thought they'd disappeared, but they're still busily turning out both high performance and practice ammunition. Their 115 grain practice ammo works really well.
You're not using enough oil. When I change my oil in my truck I just dunk my revolver in the used oil a few times. Does the trick. 😉
:)
MIck... M&P PLEASE! Love these cleaning vids, thanks
M&P Shield. 👍
Don't say everything that's made from metal needs lubrication like a dogma while you say yourself that there are parts you shouldn't lube. That's confusing.
First view
you're just supposed to say "first"
@@killervztwogaming5796 ok bro
What a gigantic joke.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
That thing sucks js. No buy
You've clearly got no clue. Hahahaha
WAAAAAY TOO MUCH oil for a J-Frame. There was more oil on that gun, than what spilled out from the Exxon Valdez. Talk about attracting more dirt, lint and grime! Ridiculous.
Did you notice he wiped most of it off? He’s just ensuring the points that need oil, get them, then wipe excess.
@@TheSouthpawSharpshooter Only if you’re “new” would anyone oil [spill] a gun like that.
…whadya new too???
Can I use hair clipper oil
Did he oil the spring
How often do you need to this oiling
This is simply not good info. The guy has to do this once a week because if it’s carried at all that oily mess will be covered in lint and crud. And do NOT oil the ejector rod. Do you even revolver or just make videos? Seriously take a revolver class from someone with experience
You sir a wrong you absolutely can and should oil the ejector rod. Yes I have taken many classes over my 50+ years of shooting and hundreds of thousands of rounds down range. We all do our cleaning and lubricating a little differently. I can promise you that amount of lube will never be a lint issue on a j frame or any other gun.
I'm sure Mick has just a "tad" more experience with guns than you... you might wanna consider changing your name to No common sense.
Why not put a tiny bit of oil on the ejector rod?
Where should you oil your revolver
I guess it's just to much for him to reply to messages..
Unsubscribe from this guy!