W123 OM617 Injector pump swap
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- Опубліковано 28 чер 2024
- What started as a misfire diagnostic quickly became an injector pump swap.
But at long last my car no longer misfires after a drive at highway speeds.
This is the longest video I've ever uploaded by a lot. Hope you enjoy and it makes sense!
This procedure is covered in 07_1-200.pdf and 07_1-201.pdf of the Factory service manual depending on if you use the timing locking tool or not.
Here are some of the special tools I used to do this:
➡ Timing tool: ebay.us/ITUzZp
Piezoelectric timing adapter: (Sealey TL95 and Gunson 77089 are the same):
➡ amzn.to/41WiNRj
➡ ebay.us/DeYSoV
➡ ebay.us/MPLcrn
➡ Innova 5568 Timing light: amzn.to/48BfVMj
Here are the more generic tools:
➡ 17mm Wrench: amzn.to/3SglObW
➡ 90 tooth 13mm (This would have been amazing with the finer tooth count): amzn.to/47vPOoF
➡ 13mm socket: amzn.to/3TYOOGx
➡ 3/8 Ratchet for socket (not a wobbly one): amzn.to/3vwqZf4
0:00 Intro
2:37 Diagnosis
3:41 A decision
5:33 Complications
6:30 Removing IP
12:04 Trade lift pump, etc
14:00 Install "new" IP
16:27 Brand new delivery valves
19:00 Testing for fuel
20:33 Cat scan
21:14 Cursing drowned out by engine noise
23:34 Fixing what caused the runaway
25:59 Trying to start again
26:55 Checking timing with piezo tool
29:30 Where I went wrong with timing
30:40 Timing corrected
31:50 Car runs good
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Links here are most likely affiliate links, should you choose to purchase from one of them, I may earn a small commission for referring you to the seller. And, this is done at no extra cost to you! - Авто та транспорт
Here are some of the special tools I used to do this:
➡ Timing tool: ebay.us/ITUzZp
Piezoelectric timing adapter: (Sealey TL95 and Gunson 77089 are the same):
➡ amzn.to/41WiNRj
➡ ebay.us/DeYSoV
➡ ebay.us/MPLcrn
➡ Innova 5568 Timing light: amzn.to/48BfVMj
Links here are most likely affiliate links, should you choose to purchase from one of them, I may earn a small commission for referring you to the seller. And, this is done at no extra cost to you!
Brilliant! I've been through the same issue you had. My delivery valves were corroded on a couple. I eventually swapped outthe 84 pump for an 85 that came from low mileage vehicle. Coinceentally, the timing chain seemed stretched, so I replaced that and retimed it using the drip method with a pressure tank. Definately smoothed the idle out as it was very similar to yours before the swap.
To further tweek it, I let the car get to temp, then backed off the injection pump damper. I then adjusted the idle until it was as smooth as possible. From there, I THEN tweaked the damper until the vibration went down further.
I experienced the same issue you have - after engine gets warmed up, it starts to shake at idle after some highway driving. But it is not nearly as bad as it used to be.
I need to do my timing chain, I know it is stretched a bit, and already has an offset key too.
I just have to find the time to do it now.
Excellent investigation.
Thank you! Glad to finally have it smoothed out like it should be
Nice information.👍
Appreciate it! Hopefully it is useful for someone
You're amazing.. Thank you..!!
Thanks! Working on more videos!
Não assisti todo video. Vou assistir com mais tempo. Porém estas válvulas de entrega tem uma pequena e impressindível regulagem. Somente em oficina especializada de bomba injetora . São estes 2 parafusos do lado de cada válvula. Não basta somente substituir.
Google translated: (Sorry if the grammar is terrible)
Acredito que você esteja pensando nos barris e êmbolos, eles têm um ajuste muito fino que só pode ser feito em uma loja Bosch, porém na bomba MW são as 2 porcas de cada lado do suporte da válvula de distribuição e o todo o conjunto do cano gira ligeiramente para ajustar, algumas outras bombas têm um parafuso menor sob uma tampa interna, mas na América do Norte só temos bombas MW.
As válvulas de entrega que troquei por novas ficam em cima do conjunto cano/êmbolo e não têm ajuste, no outro vídeo que fiz sobre a substituição das vedações de cobre embaixo delas, segue a seção 7.1-210 do manual de serviço, um procedimento normal de serviço.
Não me atrevo a mexer nos barris ou nos êmbolos e ainda não encontrei uma loja local que faça isso e me permita filmar o processo no local deles. Espero eventualmente encontrar alguém que me deixe fazer isso, pois acho que seria muito interessante ver.
Original english:
I believe you're thinking of the barrels and plungers, they do have a very fine adjustment that can only be done at a Bosch shop, however on the MW pump it is the 2 nuts on either side of the delivery valve holder and the whole barrel assembly rotates slightly to adjust, some other pumps do have a smaller screw under a cover inside, but in north america we only got MW pumps.
The delivery valves that I changed for brand new ones sit on top of the barrel/plunger assembly, and have no adjustment, in the other video I did on replacing the copper seals under them, follows section 7.1-210 in the service manual, a normal service procedure.
I don't dare mess with the barrels or plungers, and have not yet found a shop local to me that will do so and allow me to film the process at their location. I hope I can eventually find someone that will let me do that as I think it would be very interesting to see.
Have the same problem ... It just skips a beet sometimes when it's hot .
Mine seems much smoother since this but does randomly cough now and then when it's hot. Not nearly the whole car rythmic shake that it was before, but still not perfectly smooth either.
The shaking sucks .
Pierre Hedary recently addressed this issue with the cylinder sleeve. There are replacements and they have to be brass.
I think Pierres video was on the cylinder head valve guides being brass? I might be mistaken, All the Injector pump barrels and plungers I've seen are hardened steel or such, very tight tolerances and brass would wear far too quickly and could deform under the near 2000psi of pressure.
Now Dieselmeken makes injector pump element replacements that are higher output, but you have to find a shop willing to install them and calibrate the pump, If I can find a shop that will do that and let me film some parts of it, I'll probably be trying to source those new elements and get them shipped over here.
@@trythistv You are right, it just sounded familiar to my late night ears.
Been there done that! But does this mean my videos are in that weird corner of youtube that I end up on late at night learning about the history of permanent markers and sailing around the world on a raft? lol
W123 hand break repair..vedio plz..
Do you mean the drum portion of the rear brakes that is the parking brake? I haven't serviced those on my car so I probably should, when I do I will make sure to make a video on it!
👍
Thanks for the video. My 300TD wagon shakes while idling at the light when is in D but if I put it in N shaking does stop. Wonder what needs to be done other than purge fuel systeml and other usual services.
Engine mounts make a huge difference, I had collapsed mounts and it was terrible
@@trythistv They were changed few years ago I will check again.
Likely not the culprit then. It could very well be an injector, or something combustion related, could even be the pump like mine was. Have you done a compression test?
@@trythistv trying to eliminate easier one 1st like purging and fuel filters as you have shown. However, more pressing issue came up rear right axle hub is loose and has a play of 1/4-1/2".
Do you know if the engine is remanufactured? The ridged line on the valve cover apparently indicates so, according to Uncle Kent.
It is! There is a tag lower on the block that says some stuff in german that indicates it was a factory reman engine.
It certainly has some miles on it due to the timing chain having an offset key and still needing to be replaced (I'll do it soon, I have all the stuff) but pretty cool nonetheless to have a factory rebuilt engine at some point in its life.
@@trythistv I had the same valve cover, but no tag. Who knows?
Where did you buy your delivery valves? Can’t find any
I got them on ebay sometime last year, new old stock, the seller doesn't have them anymore, but now and then they do seem to pop up, or a Bosch shop may be able to get them, they are Bosch part number 1418512008
Tom, I'm glad you got those. I bought twenty.
@@AlexOnParkwood wanna sell some?
@@AlexOnParkwood want to sell some?
This was after you tried rebuilding the injectors right?
Yup, I did new injector nozzles, twice actually. I replaced the camshaft because a lobe had started wearing down immediately when I got the car, adjusted valves a few times, never could track down the hot misfire. And it wouldn't do it just running around town, even if it got to temperature, it had to be a highway speed drive, something about the higher rpm would make it miss at idle and puff greyish smoke rhythmically until it cooled off. I took the car on a couple good highway runs before posting this video so I knew it was fixed, hasn't skipped a beat yet
Wow congrats! Where did you buy your delivery valves?@@trythistv