Thanks so much! Could I ask you a direct question as a new subscriber? If I were to publish a bonsai book, would you want to buy it on the strength of these videos? Just considering my future projects... and I'm aware that getting people to part with money is difficult! But I think it would be competitively priced; not a hugely expensive coffee-table tome! Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
Wow. In 20 years of keeping Bonsai and now being able to keep them healthy and alive this is the best explanation I have seen of pruning. It all makes sense now! Can we have a video on how to encourage back budding of various species please?
Im new to bonsai, like 2 weeks. This is excellent. The best video I have come across describing in detail how to prune and why and when. Going to subscribe and hope to see more videos in this much detail. Thank you, u have gave me confidence. 😀
Thanks so much! While you're watching my videos, you'll hopefully see the one called The 3 Keys To Bonsai Health... very important for keeping your bonsai alive forever! Also, my most recent video, the Magic Method to revive a dying bonsai, you'll see that it's not necessarily the end of your bonsai if it starts dropping its leaves. Enjoy your bonsai journey!
Hey, Dave, I have seen many bonsai videos but I guess you´re the first author who says precisely when, where, why, and how the bonsais should be cut... Thanks a lot, it is a very helpful and informative video series!
Thanks Dave for explaining it so beautiful. This is the first video where you explained the science of tree. How and why to leave minimum 2 leaves to create two branches. Love your video. Have subscribed, probably going to binge all your video. Love from India ❤
Thank you for the informative video. These videos are very instructive for a newbie, like myself. There are many other videos that just show someone clipping furiously, without any explanation of the thinking process. I would highly recommend your video series to others looking to learn bonsai, or expand their skills.
Thanks a lot David! UA-cam is a huge mix of different videographers with many different styles and aims, I just wanted to do a straightforward series that I wish I had seen when I was a beginner. Thanks for taking the time to comment, and please feel free to recommend to anyone!! 👍
This video is excellent! What a resource to have! I've been practicing the art for over a year, and the more I read and watch videos, the more I feel that I know nothing yet. Thank you so much for your excellent video! Such an awesome, calming, and beautiful setting by the way!
Thank you so much José Antonio for your kind words. I'm sorry I didnt answer until now ... too much work and I've been trying to organize my Spanish paperwork for life after Brexit... By the way, I've got a new video coming out this evening on Winter Pruning. It's another horticultural bonsai techniques video. Just putting in the final touches now.. hope you enjoy it! Saludos
This is the best video I've ever seen on this subject! You explain clearly and carefully and have answered questions I have had about my maple tree development for years! My trees thank you!
Hi I’m Mary from Indiana USA. You really taught me a lot about the leaves. And how they grow. I get it now the direction of the next branch. Oh I subscribed too.
LOL white board action! I did wonder if that was too long in front of the whiteboard... but hey maybe my true calling is to be a teacher! Thanks again 👍
I’ve learned so much from this channel! I just got a green weeping willow bonsai kit that will be coming in the mail soon. I’m so excited for my cutting to grow into a little tree!
Great info in these 2 videos thank you. I'm trying to learn as much as possible before starting my first Bonsai project. The details and simplicity of your explanations are really helpful for a novice.
Just found your videos, and I am learning so much! You have a wonderful way of explaining what to do and when to do it- I’m sure my bonsai will appreciate your knowledge! Thank you for taking the time to share!
Excellent demonstration and explanation of pruning techniques. After recently getting the bonsai bug, I've trawled through countless videos on the subject and this is by far and away the best, and simplest explanation I've come across. Great effort sir. Keep up the good work 👍
Thanks so much for your kind words! Which did you prefer, part 1 or part 2? If I could go back and change something I would have purchased new marker pens before shooting these videos! 🌳👍🏻
@@BlueSkyBonsai Both parts were very informative tbh. I probably preferred part 2 as it showed your decision making process and explained why you pruned the branches you did. As I say, both were great vids though. Looking forward to watching further/older content.
Thank you, this was an incredibly informative 2-part series. I have got a ficus that is about 2 years into no-pruning and want to get into the habit of doing this, your video was great, and answered a bunch of the questions I had! (subbed and liked)
Two very enjoyable videos! I hope to be making my first winter prunings afterThanksgiving. I feel a bit more confident after watching your videos. Thanks, Dave! 👍
Thank you! Yes I'm still learning too.. maybe the day I feel like I'm not learning anything new will be time to look for a new hobby. Won't be anytime soon....
Hello and Thank you so much! I have never found the detailed Bonsai information I needed until your videos, the close-up shots, and drawings that show exactly where to cut are wonderful, and your seasonal chart is a tremendous help. Most of my plants are from seed (Lemons, Wysterias, Cherrys, and a Catalpa) and I have found little information after the seedling stage, they all seem to jump right to the full bark several-year-old tree care. It would be of great help to learn more about Wysteria...they have me very confused. Thank you again LOVE the videos!
Thanks Stephanie, I appreciate your kind words! Sadly I don't have any wysterias but they are on my wishlist! Right now my benches and decks are full so I need to sell or give some of my trees away before I have the space or time to add a wysteria. Hope you enjoy yours, I'm sure you'll do fine with it, just make sure the soil doesn't dry out!
@@newera3757 For coniferous trees, the technique is different. (Sorry I haven't done any videos yet on conifers). But broadleaf evergreens, like ficus, olive, sageretia, pyracantha, privet/ligustrum etc, the technique and timing is just the same as deciduous.
@Blue Screen Man Gaming ficus are special. They are truly tropical trees and they don't follow the energy cycle of trees in colder climates. So you can prune them at any time of year and repot them any time. Don't repot more than once a year though! It can probably go for 2 years between repotting. Roots out the ground is not a big deal, ficus do that a lot. They sometimes produce aerial roots down from branches ehich looks cool. It will survive in any window, but the more sunlight the better. More light can mean more small leaves which looks good; but less light means the tree naturally produces bigger leaves to try to absorb more light. Don't use too much ferilizer, these trees are very vigorous even with half the amount that the fert instructions say. At some point in spring, gently lift it out of the pot to inspect the roots. Is it completely over-rooted and pot-bound? If so, you'll need to get some granular bonsai soil and repot it, with root pruning. You can see I did that in a few of my videos in spring last year. I'll do it again this spring with lots of trees. (Don't fertilize for a month or 6 weeks after repotting).
I have just purchased a Carmona bonsai. It has 3 trunks that are not connected, all in the same pot. Do I need to consider separating them? I’m obviously just concerned about the roots being entwined. Thanks 😊
@@selinapike8952 three trees in a pot can look nice, and is sometimes called a clump when they are close together. You, the bonsai artist, need to decide if you want to always keep them together or if you want to have three separate trees. If they look good together, like a real life clump of trees, then it is fine to keep them together and always treat them like one tree with three trunks. But if you think at some future time you might want them as separate trees, then separate them now because the longer you leave them, the more entwined they will grow. It's not a question of health; it's more aesthetics. Now to some health advice: carmona trees sometimes just die. A few years ago I pruned off a branch after repotting it, and the tree just died on me. It couldn't cope. Almost all bonsai enthusiasts have lost a Carmona at some stage. So, treat it with care... but I also recommend get a Zelkova or a Chinese elm, they are much easier to care for in the long run. HTH
might be late for this reply. I'm confused about the idea of pruning the top to direct more energy to the trunk but also letting everything grow wild to to get a fatter trunk to generate more energy. Hope to hear back, great vid!
Lovely tree, very nice , im getting a bit jealous , i have such a long way to go but will get there ..Thank you for this , really appreciate it . oh i like to pot choice too .
@@BlueSkyBonsai Im impressed.... , your right Dave . Bonsai is a game of patience as well , design , planning ,etc ..Bravo.. I Need to buy more time, any videos on that 😀
Another wonderful and insightful video. I only found you the other day and I'm loving what I see. Expect more comments over the next few days and weeks. Peace from Berkshire.
Thanks a lot! Glad you found my channel. I have to say, UA-cam is pretty slow about delivering relevant channels to the people who are actively looking for this type of content. I mean, I'm still discovering bonsai-related channels after 2 years of uploading and several more years of following other bonsai channels.
this is the most informative an easy to understand video Ive found on youtube. thank you alot for the video. so inspiring. I might soon have the curage to try this myself :P
Great! Thanks for your kind words 😊 Did you also see the part 1 of this video pair? Hopefully that will also give you the confidence to shape your miniature tree!
Cheers to your great work, this has been the best video on bonsai tutorials. I'm 21, living in India and planning to begin with bonsai out of love for nature. I'd love see a video from you for ultimate beginners, to grow bonsai from the scratch and also want some suggestions regarding the same for the climate in here is tropical. Thank You.
Hi and thanks for your kind words. I will probably do a video someday on starting bonsai for beginners. But I don't get much spare time; this is just my hobby. In the meantime, please watch this video: ua-cam.com/video/a_vYCvQL5iE/v-deo.html - it is the horticultural basics of growing, and everyone doing bonsai should know this stuff, but it seems a lot of people don't know it. Hope that helps!
Very clear explanation. I have two questions for you. First one, when to transfer a plant to a bonsai pot? Next, when to start first pruning while growing from a seed?
First, to transfer a plant to a bonsai pot, you can do it when you think the plant looks big enough, and ready for the small pot. But follow these two principles: 1. When a plant has smaller roots in a smaller pot, you are restricting (almost stopping) the growth of the plant. So, if you want the tree to grow bigger or the trunk to grow thicker, don't put it in a bonsai pot yet; keep it in a bigger pot. 2. from a horticultural aspect, you need to repot the plant in a way that does not seriously damage its health. Usually you do it in Spring. Cut the fat tap root in Spring of the second year of growth, keeping as much fine feeder roots as you can. In a bonsai you want all fine feeder roots. But, move it to bonsai pot after a few years only when you're happy to keep it at that size.
Next, when growing from seed, wait at least two years, and usually more than three years before pruning. You want the plant to grow strong before you start trying to prune it to any shape. The more leaves & sunlight, the more energy the plant gets for strong grrowth. The only thing I recommend to prune early, is if you want only one trunk and the plant is growing twin or multiple trunks, then choose the trunk you want to keep and remove the other unwanted trunks already in the first or second year so that all the growth and energy is confined to your one desired trunk.
Very nice. I've got a conifer though, I'm sitting here with scissors ready to ruin it, haha. Can I cut it now? On another note, I've got an Autumn Blaze Maple I found sprouting in the yard, so I put it in a pot to make a bonsai. It was Fall and the sprout already had colored leaves. It's been inside at room temp all winter, and it still has colored leaves, lol. Did I confuse it? Only has about 8 leaves now.
Thanks! You *can* prune a juniper now but personally I wait until mid spring when the first new flush of growth has darkened. Have you seen any sign of new growth yet? If so, better to wait. Juniper would survive either way, but you'll lose more sap/resin if it's actively pushing out new growth at the time. The maple, yes you have probably made it perceive a very warm winter! But it's ok to do that one year. It would not be okay to do that every year - deciduous trees need a dormant period each year, or after a few years they will wither away and die after about 6 or 7 years. When it gets warmer in Spring put it outside in the sun then see how it buds out again. The remaining 8 leaves will drop eventually. Don't put it outside if it's still very cold out, because it will think winter arrived late then wait a few more months before leafing out again.
I just bought my second ever bonsai yesterday, its a trio of skinny amur maples. I don't know what style I want it in or if the trunks will merge together over time but I'll worry about that later. This video and part 1 were both extremely informative for a beginner like myself. I really had no idea how to prune up until this point but you explained it super well! I'm definitely going to check out your other stuff too! Do you have any vids or sources you would recommend for pruning bonsai into specific styles?
Congrats on the amur! For styling, you could try broom style: ua-cam.com/video/B6wGeUdM44Q/v-deo.html Or you could create a triple trunk: ua-cam.com/video/PBOT9B7AkII/v-deo.html (And this is how it looks now: ua-cam.com/users/shortsy-ZbmA2a5sU?feature=share ) Or you could turn it into a small forest: ua-cam.com/video/XJzK02HGUAs/v-deo.html Or you could separate the trees and make three separate styles? E.g. informal upright can be created by a series of trunk chops over about ten years: ua-cam.com/video/_wsGWXRfhNA/v-deo.html Or you can form the bends much quicker by wiring the trunk, but I don't like doing that because it usually leaves horrible wiring scars.
Thanks! Liked and subscribed! Awesome clear cut video, I am starting to understand how Bonsai grows now. Question: Does your energy chart applies to indoor Bonsai? I uses artificial UV light as well.
Indoor bonsai are generally tropical species and they don't follow the same energy calendar. For example ficus can be pruned any time of year, and repotted any time as long as they are kept in high humidity for a few days after. But Chinese elm are not really indoor species, even though they grow ok indoors, its safest to treat them as an outdoor tree, and follow the energy calendar. Thanks for the like & sub!!
Your voice is so relaxing! I have a question about mine ficus. I've been growing it for 3 months now (i started from branch with 2 small leaves) and now it has 8 big leaves and it is about 20cm tall. How long should i let it grow before first trimm and how much should i trim? Thank you!
Thanks! I have 3 ficus retusa cuttings from last year, about 30-40cm tall, and I'm not going to prune them at all until next year. Every time you prune them you slow the process of thickening the trunk, so you need to decide the right time when to slow the growth. Bonsai is a lot about waiting and patience. One thing to consider, now would be a good time to wire the trunk, if you want to, to add some movement. Consider: Peter Chan might do that, for the typical bonsai S-shape. Nigel Saunders would not; he would do many trunk chops over a long time to get the tree to naturally grow in interesting directions. Me--I'm tending towards the Nigel way, using more time and patience, and trunk chops to direct the growth. In the end you're the artist, you have to decide on your tree's future! Whatever you do, enjoy it!
Hi Tony, yes basically you keep two leaves on each stem, cutting half way between the second and third leaf. That way you always allow every stem to bifurcate. This is more important at the top of the tree, but you can keep branches longer lower down the canopy, for a more natural appearance. I recently did a more up-to-date video on this here: ua-cam.com/video/AGkLb16Oqag/v-deo.html
Ok, another targeted question for you: these shoots that I’ve let grow very long on my forsythia...let’s say for the sake of discussion that I let them be for another growing season, maybe two. At some point, do you think the tree would abandon the smaller scale, weaker growth (the stuff preferable for a bonsai) and put all its energy into the more major growth?
Excellent question! So you have to make a decision: grow the trunk (fatter, taller) OR accept the girth of the trunk as-is and work on your branch structure. They are separate development stages and if you're working on trunk growth you can't expect to refine the branches at the same time. If you let them it grow wild for a couple of years, then you could already consider a few of the branches as the basis for your future primary branch structure "the skeleton", and you could even wire some of those young branch bases into shape already but at this stage you cannot contemplate compact foliage pads and fine ramification because you want to pack as much energy as possible into the trunk. Which means large, unrefined branches and bigger leaves until you're ready to start refining again.
Blue Sky Bonsai thanks for breaking it down so logically once again. There’s so much info in this hobby to keep an organized, coherent strategy in order. Cheers!
Oh my gosh, I'm so happy I found your channel, you've just earned a new subbie. I just got gifted my first ever bonsai and I'm obsessed with it, but i know nothing at all about them. I'm finding your videos so helpful, you really explain things so well! Your drawings really help someone like me who can't get their head around a tree's anatomy and how it all works. You're adorable, thank you! I do have a question for you though. I have a few random branches growing towards the bottom of the trunk. Should I leave those? If not, when is best to prune and should I prune in such a way the cant grow back again? There are also random leaves grieing out of the bottom of the trunk, with no branches. I'm so confused 😂. I live in the UK too 💚🌱
Thanks again Kelly, I'm also so happy you found my channel! 😊 congrats on your bonsai! What species is it? This is important for the "when to prune" question... if it is a deciduous tree you don't want to prune it in autumn, just let the leaves yellow and drop. But if it's a tropical evergreen like ficus or sageretia, you can safely prune these now in early autumn. The leaves and shoots at the bottom of the trunk are called "suckers", clip them off whenever you see them because you don't want a branch down there, and otherwise they will just take energy away from the rest of the tree. Low down branches, say in the first one third of the tree; usually you don't want branches that low, but you might consider keeping one or two as sacrifice branches if you want to thicken up the lower trunk to develop more of a taper on your trunk. You let them grow big for several months to fatten up the trunk below the branch, then prune them off before they'll leave too big a scar. Next summer for example. When pruning, consider the words of Mr Miyagi in the original karate kid film, "Think tree". Go online and find a few pictures of what you'd want your tree to look like in a few years' time, think of it as a 5 year project to slowly prune it in the direction of your image. Hope that helps!
@@BlueSkyBonsai you're so amazing, thank you. It's a 12 year old Chinese Elm. It's one I intend to keep indoors, I'm assuming that's ok? It gets plenty of light (and sun, when UK weather permits 😂). I thought I'd killed it about 3/4 weeks after I got it as 80% of its leaves shed. But I think it was just re acclimatising because the majority has grown back. I did wonder what the super long branches were for, and then I found out they were 'sacrifice branches' on one of your videos. Thank goodness I didn't chop them off when I was going to 😂. I was thinking that maybe I should just leave any pruning til the end of winter, just because of the recent trauma. I dont want to make it worse. Does that sound like a good idea, or will pruning help over winter? Thanks for your responses 💚🌱
@@hells_kells thank you!! Good news: Chinese elm is probably the best species in existence for bonsai. They survive well indoors or outdoors. They have small leaves so it's easy to imagine them as full-size trees. They are very resilient and nearly always bounce back after root pruning (Spring) or branch pruning (summer and winter). Because they are so resilient, you *could* prune the branches now, if it's becoming really unweildy and out of control. But if not, it's best to wait for winter. During autumn trees start to slow down leaf growth and instead pack down the sugars and store them as starch in the roots ready for winter. So winter is a perfect time to trim branches but not a good time to prune roots. (and spring is the opposite: as the sap moves up the tree again, just as it's budding out is the best time to prune the roots but not the branches).
Thank you very much. I live in Miami, FL and just got my first bonsai. I believe it is a Jasmine of some type. I have it on my balcony. Given it is Miami, will it still go through the season cycles? And what do you recommend for fertilizer, how much and how often? Thank you!
Hi Gary, I thought I had already answered your question but I see it here in my list of unanswered comments so I guess I didn't! basically Jasmine are a broadleaf evergreen, they do go through annual cycle but not as drastic as a deciduous tree in a cold climate. So Jasmine does go dormant in winter, at least mine does here. You can prune the Jasmine in summer, autumn or winter, about once a year or twice at most. Don't prune in spring because thats when all the new shoots and flowers buds are starting to form. So wait until after all the flowers have faded, then prune it back. Fertilize from spring through autumn, about once every 2-3 weeks with a liquid fertilizer diluted to the manufacturers instructions. When it gets really hot in summer, don't use fertilizer - above 35ºC / 95ºF I stop using fertilizer, because the plant just needs more water then without any salts.
Nice video you got! thanks for all the explanation! I just had a doubt, you say that you shouldn't prune the branches when you prune the roots because the plant needs the leaves to create energy and boost the growth of roots, but on the other hand we should prune the branches so that there aren't too many leaves for the amount of roots right? Too many leaves and too few roots increase the energy quotient, and the roots cannot bring the water and nutrients needed for all the leaves to properly photosynthesize, which will result in the plant's natural selection of the branches it wants to feed and thus allow others to dry out. Could you explain if my perspective is logical? Much Thanks!
@@DC140495 thanks for your comments! The main idea is to keep the energy level high in the tree in general, so prune branches when all the energy is in the roots, prune roots when all the energy is in the branches. But ultimately this "rule" can be broken in many scenarios. E.g. vigorous tropical species like ficus seem to bounce back easily if you prune roots and branches at the same time (but not Carmona - they die too easily). If the tree is a really vigorous species AND is in a healthy state, then there is not a huge risk to prune roots and branches at the same time, as you said because less leaves draw up less water from the temporarily depleted roots. But there is a trick you can do to minimize or stop the tree shedding leaves after root-pruning: just put a clear plastic bag over the whole tree & pot, with misted water inside for 100% humidity, in shade for a week or so. That reduces transpiration for a time so the leaves stay green but don't suck up much water. In any case a deciduous tree can shed many of its leaves in summer and leaf out again before autumn so depending on the species it's not a major problem if it does lose a lot of leaves. Of course coniferous trees are different, if a pine branch loses all its needles the branch will die... Did I answer your question?? 🤔
@@BlueSkyBonsai Yes, thank you very much for the clarification! The art of bonsai is a world of knowledge! Your explanation makes sense! And I didn't know about that bag trick, I just use it to grow cuttings. Keep up the videos, they are very good and very enlightening!
@@Junky_Monkey yes you can still safely prune the branches in August. It's getting a bit late for root pruning now though, I wouldn't prune the roots now until next spring.
Hi - very helpful indeed. But I can't see if you mentioned anywhere when to prune, and when not to, evergreen bonsai which was left unmarked on your whiteboard. And for that matter, succulent bonsai such as portulacaria, jade, etc. Would appreciate your advice please. Thanks!
Thanks Sergy! Good question, when I published this I just ran out of time and planned to come back to the evergreens. For coniferous trees I would recommend either mid winter or mid summer, but not at the same time as root pruning. And leave a stub like in this video: ua-cam.com/video/TROnvlE4JF4/v-deo.html For tropicals that you would keep indoors from autumn through to spring, you can prune them really any time of year.. at least I have never managed to kill a portulacaria or ficus or sageretia by pruning them. I have killed a Carmona Fukien Tea I think by pruning the roots at the same time as a large branch. So now I stick to the principle of never prune roots at the same time as a major branch - for all my trees. And for older or more special trees I will only do one major "insult" in a year. My main goal is to keep them alive and healthy forever, whereas looking like a "perfect" bonsai can always wait...
I believed that the principles you expound on timing of pruning bonsai is applicable to gardenia and azalea pruning in my yard, thank you. By the way why are bonsai cutters without springs in them like regular pruners?
Thank you, great question! What I can tell you about these bonsai tools is they have enormous amount of leverage - the very long handles compared to the small distance from the pivot to the blade. Maybe the strong leverage is the reason that they don't need a spring. Maybe for simplicity too... Springs break easier than pivots I guess. I love azaleas and gardenia, I will do a video about azaleas soon.
Congrats on the Chinese elm! They are the best type of tree to start with. I suggest a liquid fertilizer and you dilute a tiny amount in your watering can, the instructions will you tell you how much to dilute for how much water. The rule of thumb is: fertilize every 14 days in spring and autumn, but you can stop fertilizing in the two hottest months of summer and coldest two of winter. It's okay to under-fertilize but not good to over-fertilize, so if you miss one feed, don't add more to try to make up for it.
Thank you so much, very informative. In regards to seasonal pruning, I have a Chinese Privot that I keep indoor year round with a grow light. I've read that in this scenario it can be pruned any time of year, is that accurate?
Glad you found it informative! Re. Indoor Chinese Privet, yes you can prun at any time of year. I have one in the kitchen windowsill and prune it about 4 or 5 times a year.
Love the way you explain "basic" tree growth; just "simple enough for even me to understand!! However, PLEASE use a better coloured marker on your whiteboard; maybe BLACK? I can see very little of what you draw!!!
Thanks ! Glad you found it helpful. These two videos were in 2020. since then I have adopted a "virtual whiteboard" so the pens never squeak and never dry out! I hope this video will be good for your next view- The 3 keys to Bonsai Health: ua-cam.com/video/a_vYCvQL5iE/v-deo.html
Hi Dave - thanks for a clear and informative video! I am very new to bonsai and I have a few questions about pruning. I have a Chinese Elm that I am wintering at a nursery and an Australian Brush Cherry that I keep indoors. First, should I do a major pruning twice a year(winter and summer) or more frequently? I read that since the brush cherry is a hedge-like tree it needs to be pruned often. Second, my brush cherry just had a mealy bug infection that was successfully treated last month. How long should I wait to prune it? I already did a pruning in November. Lastly, I read that "you should never prune all the new growth at once". What does that mean? Can I harm the tree if I take off too many leaves? After you have pruned a branch to two leaves, do you have to let the next two branches grow and prune them back to two leaves, meaning that you need to let the tree get gradually bigger? Is it possible to keep the tree the same size or do you always need to let it grow slowly? Sorry for all the questions - I started bonsai in the middle of the pandemic so I was never able to have in-person conversations with experts.
Hi Celia, congrats on starting into thos wonderful journey, it will stay with you for the rest of your life even if some of your mini trees come and go. I normally give straight hortucultural answers to these questions but in this case I think it might help to think of bonsai on a meta level, what is all about underneath the branches, roots and pruning decisions. Bonsai can be an artistic expression of the continual struggle between the harsh elements of the environment and the need to grow, flower and reproduce. This is represented artistically by maintaining a balance between beautiful harmony and the visually jarring. So back to your questions: the chinese elm is very resilient and could easily take pruning 5 or 6 times a year, like you are the "harsh environmental elements", however you also need to let it grow out sometimes and let branches break out of that beautiful harmonic silhouette that you create when you prune it. So twice a year, summer and winter, is really the best regime in my opinion. You can prune back all the new growth on a *vigorous* plant or tree. If you see it is vigorous then it is also (generally speaking) in good health. If it's not doing so well, don't prune, give it some TLC and keep a close eye to avoid reinfestations. Yes, prune back branches to 2 leaves then prune back the resultant secondary branches to 2 leaves, then tertiary and so on. That's how you get beautiful ramification, a realistic looking twigginess to the tree. Back to the "balance" point. You the artist have to make the judgement, between tree size and realistic natural looking tree: that is the balance between the organism's need to grow to absorb light, against the forces of nature impeding its growth. Does that help?? I also recommend this video on essential bonsai health - this one is purely horticultural: ua-cam.com/video/a_vYCvQL5iE/v-deo.html
@@BlueSkyBonsai Thank you so much for all this wonderful information! I think now I can plan my pruning for each tree with a better understanding of how to do it safely and aesthetically. I appreciate the other video too! Thanks again! Hope you are staying healthy :)
Hi Adrian, good question! When each leaf has fully grown it should have a tiny bud in its stem pit at the base of the petiole, even if you can't see it. So if the leaves have hardened (not growing more) then they should have buds and you can prune down to just above those leaves. Only the first leaf on any branch stem may lack the bud. If a leaf is still tender and growing, (not yet hardened), then probably the bud is not yet developed.
Hi, with what you said about pruning deciduous trees when their energy levels are high within the tree, does this also apply to air layering? Could I for instance, air layer an oak this winter since all its leaves have fallen off? Or is air layering to be done when there's hardened foliage to allow for photosynthesis? Thanks again. Great videos.. been binge watching your channel!
Thanks - glad to hear you're enjoying my videos! I would definitely wait until the sap is flowing in spring to do the air layer. You *can* do it when the first leaves are unfurling, but there's no major time advantage (especially if there's still a chance of frost harming the first leaves as they unfurl)... in other words, yes I would wait till the first flush of leaves has hardened.
Ultimately you need to let that primary branch grow out for 3 or so years. Prune it only once a year to keep it manageable. But if you keep pruning it into shape several times a year it will keep its nice shape but it will take longer to thicken up. So be patient, and be prepared to let it grow out a LOT before you cut back each year...
I've recently started using zeolite substrate, lot's of pummice and other stone sorts. I wonder whether acadama might be a substrate I should mix that with. What do you think?
Zeolite looks excellent- I've never used it but might give it a try. As long as I can get it in granules of 2-4mm here in Spain. Akadama is my primary bonsai soil ingredient, I add other components to the mix (pumice or kiryuzuna for holding soil structure better than akadama, and pine bark for best water retention) all seived to remove the dust and get uniform granule size. Akadama is a great compromise between good water retention and structure-holding for about 2 years. But if you have severe winters where you live with many months of freezing temperatures, akadama might not be best because repeated freeze/thaw cycles can break up the akadama granules. A few frosty mornings won't cause the issue (it's not a problem here in Spain) but three months of freeze/thaw each winter could turn your akadama into a mush. Zeolite apparently holds its structure so should go well mixed with akadama. One big advantage of akadama is that it changes colour/darkness a lot when wet so you can see immediately when the soil surface is dry and needs watering. This advantage is also true of kiryu, but not for pumice. Does Zeolite change colour when wet?
Have just watched the two linked videos - that was so instructive, simplified and helpful. Thank you. With regard to ‘Evergreens’ does the pruning cycle differ from the ‘Deciduous’ one ?
Thanks Peter. Coniferous evergreens - always outdoors - I use the same calendar as for deciduous trees. Outdoor broadleaf evergreens - like olives, almost the same but you *can* still prune in early autumn if really necessary. Tropical evergreens like ficus - indoors from autumn to spring - can prune any time of year. HTH.
@@BlueSkyBonsai Thank you for the clarification. Can I ask if you ever done any videos on pruning Pines as I have struggled to find one that covers this ?
Dear Dave, thanks a lot for the video, I just subscribed your channel! Could you please explain the "energy circle" for the evergreen trees as well? Thanks for now and best regards from Germany!
Hi Marion, thanks! Evergreens are very varied, that's why I didn't put them in this video. Conifers - same energy calendar as deciduous. But it's less obvious when they're starting to go dormant in autumn, and starting to wake up in spring. Tropical broadleaf evergreens - no energy calendar... as long as they stay warm all year round, you can prune them any time of year. Temperate broadleaf evergreens (olive, holm oak, shrubs like laurel/bay, boxwood) can be pruned in s autumn instead of winter, since they don't throw off their leaves. Hope that helps.
Hi, I shot this particular video before I bought the RF 85/2. The first video I used the 85/2 was this: ua-cam.com/video/TROnvlE4JF4/v-deo.html It is an excellent lens for photography, and quite good for video but not brilliant. The AF is a bit slow so if you walk around while shooting then sometimes your fous can stray a bit. But, the quality is astounding so if you can shoot in manual focus then you get fantastic results. If you look at my most recent videos, nearly all the close-up filming was done on the 85/2 with camera on a tripod focussed manually. For close-up work I stop down to f/4 or even smaller aperture, otherwise only one tiny slither of the tree is in focus.... but for longer distance work - like across the garden - aperture f/2 is absolutely stunning.
I'm kinda confused with sacrificial branch. I thought that when you cut a vigorous branch then ther resources to maintain that branch will go to other branch that has less vigor.
The only purpose of a sacrifice branch is to generate extra sugars that will help fatten the trunk below the branch. Then you chop off the sacrifice branch as soon as it appears to be getting too big at the trunk, so you want to avoid getting too big a scar when you chop it. Does that help?
Hi I have recently inherited two bonsai trees that have seen better days they were donated by a bad owner they came with very few leaves and some branches that have no leaves at all and some leaves that are brown and yellow and falling off.. is there any hope of me reviving them If so how would you start Think your videos are great very informative and easy to watch and understand
Hi Paul, thanks for your comments and question. I think there is a reasonable chance of bringing the trees back to life, ultimately it depends on a few factors: do you know what species of tree they are? How long did they go without water? If they are Chinese elm , which may be the most common species used for bonsai, then you have got a good chance of reviving them. Even a few weeks after they lose all their leaves, they usually start budding again and leaf out nicely. Just keep watering them and keep them outdoors in daylight without letting the strong direct sunlight at them. As soon as any sign the soil is drying then water them. Do you know what species of tree they are?
@@BlueSkyBonsai hi thanks for the reply i am pretty sure the trees are one of the ficus species as they have the same type oval leaves and the tree stands up on its roots. the problem with the trees was that they were allowed to dry out in the recent heatwave and most of the leaves fell off. Now they do have some leaves but are sparse and look a little small. i have put them outside where they get sunlight for only part of the day and kept them moist for now. lets hope they make it through as they wasn't cheap when they were purchased three months ago and if they do i get to keep them anyways .
@@paulmacdonald2284 i think you have hit the "jackpot" for one of the best species of bonsai to survive drought. The tree naturally throws off all the older and larger leaves that it cannot supply enough water to, and retains the younger smaller leaves that don't demand as much water and can still supply some energy back into the branches from the light/photosynthesis. Long-story short: keep giving them the treatment as you are, and the first sign of cold at night bring them indoors to your brightest window. Where in the world are you??
@@paulmacdonald2284 ok so look out for night time temperature of below 10° and then the ficus needs to be indoors. On a windowsill but not just above a radiator. Will be interested to hear how they recover 👍🏻
I just got my first bonsai. I'm hesitant to prune because it says it can lose up to 20% of leaves adjusting to new environment. Also, mine grows upwards so I'm unsure. Any advice helps. Thank you!
Hi, what species of tree is it? Definitely a good idea to allow it to acclimatise to the new environment for a couple of weeks. Do you have it indoors or outdoors? If it's indoors, make sure it's next to a bright window. And don't let the roots get dry... ever! Please see my video "the 3 keys to bonsai health": ua-cam.com/video/a_vYCvQL5iE/v-deo.html
@@BlueSkyBonsai I have a ficus bonsai. I have had it for about a week. It needs to be trimmed back but I'm waiting. It has some roots coming out near the bottom of the trunk but they are black. I don't know whether they are healthy or just covered in dirt. I have my bonsai indoors in front of my sliding door but I bought an indoor grow light for it...will that be sufficient? Thank you for your reply and I love your knowledge of this majestic plant. Maybe our paths will meet someday! Take care my friend
@@marybisson2411 thank you, wow 3 hours of my videos? Thank you... I didn't even know I had published that much 😂 You have acquired a very good species as a first bonsai; ficus look good and they are difficult to kill! Assuming your sliding door lets through natural light, it should be fine. And with a grow light for darker days, it should do very well. At some stage, (not urgently) maybe in October or so, you could try slipping the entire root ball & soil carefully out of the pot to inspect the roots. I guess you've seen my recent videos on Reasons to Repot and 25 tips while repotting? But as before, let it get used to its new environment first, and see how it responds to its first trim in a week or two. Ficus drip a small amount of milky sap when you make a cut, that's fine. Think of it as nature's own wood sealant! Above all, enjoy your small tree!
Thank you! And yes, 3 hours. I want this tree to survive and I have always had a black thumb lol but it's because I didn't have the knowledge of the specific plants. I have another bonsai coming that looks like a weeping willow. I'll be watching and rewatching videos. I also found a older gentleman that owns a bonsai sanctuary in Europe? I believe. I don't know where to start with the pruning. I have yet to see the root ball. I don't want to do too much to it since it's still small. About 6".
Hi, great videos, some great advice here. I have a Chinese Privet (Ligustrum Sinesis) which was gifted at Christmas, it's being kept in indoors in a south facing window with plenty of light, and I'm using a moisture meter to aide watering. The tree has been growing new shoots quite happily, some if which are more than 4cm long, should I prune these? I'm in the UK so we're in the Winter phase. Also, I've noticed there are some tiny green shoots coming from the root base.....should these also be snipped? Any advice would be welcome!
Thank you Jamie! Congrats on your ligustrum, the privet is a great species for bonsai. If you're keeping it indoors you can prune the longer shoots pretty much any time of year because the indoor warmth is similar to an outdoor tree in the tropics. It will be fine. The new shoots from the root base are called suckers, you want to get rid of those as soon as you see them. They are typical for any tree or shrub with a clump- or bush- growth habit. Oaks, olives and pomegranates also do it. The suckers take energy away from your tree's growth so you want to nip them in the bud, literally. Privets grow roots profusely so be prepared to repot it with root pruning every year in spring.
Brilliant m, thanks for your advice. I’ve also noticed some straggly roots growing up out of the soil at the edge of the pot, is that a sign that it may need re-potting? If so should I want until Spring?
@@jamier6477 yes, wait until spring unless you see all the leaves start to turn half yellowy, because that's the sign that it is potbound and can't supply enough water up the trunk. If you're interested you can see my privet progess here, the first few photos are potbound so you see how bad it can get and still survive fine after repotting. www.flickr.com/gp/davidhseymour/Bpq90s
Hi, Sounds like you have a nice selection of bonsai trees. You can essentially prune the trees in summer and winter, but avoid Spring while the tree is flushing out its new leaves and stem growth. Between summer and autumn, you can prune any of the evergreens, but I recommend leaving the deciduous trees (elm, maple and larch) until early winter, or even next summer / late spring. Any trees that are still tiny and growing from seed or cuttings - don't prune those, let them grow unhindered for at least two years, maybe more. How hard to prune back? at the top of the tree, leave only one or two leaves on each shoot. Lower down, keep each branch longer. In your mind's eye, get an image of a tree in nature than prune to that approximate shape. I did one recently in this video: ua-cam.com/video/AGkLb16Oqag/v-deo.html Hope that helps!
Hi Dave, sorry if this question has been asked, I'm new and have taken 4 3 year old Pohutukawa's and am growing them under lights. It's coming into summer now so I have them on 16 hours of light... but your seasons explanation has me thinking... do you think I should mimic the seasons with my light timing or do I have some advantages of keeping them in certain seasons for longer/shorter? Thanks so much!
Hi! I don't have personal experience of Pohutukawa trees, but in general a young tree of only 3 years can cope with 12-16 hours a day of artificial grow lights without problem. Grow lamps are never as strong as direct sunlight anyway. In summer, 16 hours will be good and in winter you could reduce to 12 if you want. They look like very pretty trees, I've never seen them in Europe.
The most comprehensive guide to pruning my Chinese Pepper that I've found on UA-cam. Thank you
Thanks so much! Could I ask you a direct question as a new subscriber? If I were to publish a bonsai book, would you want to buy it on the strength of these videos? Just considering my future projects... and I'm aware that getting people to part with money is difficult! But I think it would be competitively priced; not a hugely expensive coffee-table tome! Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
Wow. In 20 years of keeping Bonsai and now being able to keep them healthy and alive this is the best explanation I have seen of pruning. It all makes sense now! Can we have a video on how to encourage back budding of various species please?
Thanks so much for your great comment!! Also, that's a very good suggestion. I'll have to think about it and plan something. cheers! 🌳👍
Exactly what I needed to see right now. Great video!
@@rmmc99 thanks for your comment, glad the video helped!
this two part video is better from most of what I've watched. Ty
Thanks so much! More coming soon 👍
Im new to bonsai, like 2 weeks. This is excellent. The best video I have come across describing in detail how to prune and why and when. Going to subscribe and hope to see more videos in this much detail. Thank you, u have gave me confidence. 😀
Thanks so much! While you're watching my videos, you'll hopefully see the one called The 3 Keys To Bonsai Health... very important for keeping your bonsai alive forever! Also, my most recent video, the Magic Method to revive a dying bonsai, you'll see that it's not necessarily the end of your bonsai if it starts dropping its leaves. Enjoy your bonsai journey!
Hey, Dave, I have seen many bonsai videos but I guess you´re the first author who says precisely when, where, why, and how the bonsais should be cut... Thanks a lot, it is a very helpful and informative video series!
Thanks for the great feedback! Glad you found it helpful.
Thanks Dave for explaining it so beautiful. This is the first video where you explained the science of tree. How and why to leave minimum 2 leaves to create two branches. Love your video.
Have subscribed, probably going to binge all your video.
Love from India ❤
@@nitishkr22 thanks for your wonderful comment and welcome to the Blue Sky school of horticulture!
Thank you for the informative video. These videos are very instructive for a newbie, like myself. There are many other videos that just show someone clipping furiously, without any explanation of the thinking process. I would highly recommend your video series to others looking to learn bonsai, or expand their skills.
Thanks a lot David! UA-cam is a huge mix of different videographers with many different styles and aims, I just wanted to do a straightforward series that I wish I had seen when I was a beginner. Thanks for taking the time to comment, and please feel free to recommend to anyone!! 👍
I have watched a lot of Bonsai videos recently. This one has truly helped.
Thanks- glad to have helped!
This video is excellent! What a resource to have!
I've been practicing the art for over a year, and the more I read and watch videos, the more I feel that I know nothing yet. Thank you so much for your excellent video! Such an awesome, calming, and beautiful setting by the way!
Thank you so much José Antonio for your kind words. I'm sorry I didnt answer until now ... too much work and I've been trying to organize my Spanish paperwork for life after Brexit...
By the way, I've got a new video coming out this evening on Winter Pruning. It's another horticultural bonsai techniques video. Just putting in the final touches now.. hope you enjoy it! Saludos
Again, you are an excellent teacher, and your love for the art of bonsai is very clearly evident. Thank you!
Thanks for your kind words!
You are a good teacher sir understandable. No rocketscience simple. To the point. Love it.
Thanks for watching and for your kind words. Glad you enjoyed it!
This is the best video I've ever seen on this subject! You explain clearly and carefully and have answered questions I have had about my maple tree development for years! My trees thank you!
Thanks for your kind words! Glad you found it helpful 😊
After watching several channels on bonsai cutting, yours is by far the most informative one! I sincerely thank you for your thorough explanation. 😊
Thank you so much, I really appreciate your comment. Tomorrow I publish a similar video about repotting...
Wow, your videos are really teaching a deeper side of bonsai. I shoulda watched this before I pruned my new hinoki cypress....
Thank you Garrett, I'm sure your hinoki will be ok, but to be sure you might need to let it grow without pruning next year!
Hi I’m Mary from Indiana USA. You really taught me a lot about the leaves. And how they grow. I get it now the direction of the next branch. Oh I subscribed too.
Hi Mary, happy to hear you're finding my videos useful! Thanks!!
i love the white board action and the tip of the week
LOL white board action! I did wonder if that was too long in front of the whiteboard... but hey maybe my true calling is to be a teacher! Thanks again 👍
nice use of board rubber at 8.09
Thank you so much for your tutorial, You explain so nicely how to trim the Bonsai tree , I am just starting, so can’t wait to learn from you 🙏🏻🌱
I’ve learned so much from this channel! I just got a green weeping willow bonsai kit that will be coming in the mail soon. I’m so excited for my cutting to grow into a little tree!
Congrats on the willow bonsai, thanks for commenting!
Great info in these 2 videos thank you. I'm trying to learn as much as possible before starting my first Bonsai project. The details and simplicity of your explanations are really helpful for a novice.
Thanks, I'm glad to hear you found it helpful!
Just found your videos, and I am learning so much! You have a wonderful way of explaining what to do and when to do it- I’m sure my bonsai will appreciate your knowledge! Thank you for taking the time to share!
Thanks Peter! I'm glad you're finding my videos useful!
Excellent demonstration and explanation of pruning techniques. After recently getting the bonsai bug, I've trawled through countless videos on the subject and this is by far and away the best, and simplest explanation I've come across. Great effort sir. Keep up the good work 👍
Thanks so much for your kind words! Which did you prefer, part 1 or part 2?
If I could go back and change something I would have purchased new marker pens before shooting these videos! 🌳👍🏻
@@BlueSkyBonsai Both parts were very informative tbh. I probably preferred part 2 as it showed your decision making process and explained why you pruned the branches you did. As I say, both were great vids though. Looking forward to watching further/older content.
@@andrewmaddison8492 thank you very much for your feedback!
What a good tutorial, well explained and very detailed. Thanks mate, it's helping a lot with my new prebonsai.
Thanks, glad to have helped!
Thank you, this was an incredibly informative 2-part series. I have got a ficus that is about 2 years into no-pruning and want to get into the habit of doing this, your video was great, and answered a bunch of the questions I had! (subbed and liked)
Thanks for your comment & subbing! Very happy to hear these videos are helping.
Two very enjoyable videos! I hope to be making my first winter prunings afterThanksgiving. I feel a bit more confident after watching your videos. Thanks, Dave! 👍
Thanks!! Enjoy your winter pruning! 👍🏻
Thank you for the clear and easy to understand content. Makes it so much easier
Glad you found it useful!
Just started as a hobby enjoying bonsai learn a lot how to take care and pruning,thank you very well explained
Welcome! It is a beautiful hobby and I hope the love of trees stays with you forever 🌳😊
Ive been enjoying your content. Really informative. Had bonsai for 15 years and still learning.
Thank you! Yes I'm still learning too.. maybe the day I feel like I'm not learning anything new will be time to look for a new hobby. Won't be anytime soon....
This video was very informative. Thank you very much 😊
Thanks 🌳👍🏻
Hello and Thank you so much! I have never found the detailed Bonsai information I needed until your videos, the close-up shots, and drawings that show exactly where to cut are wonderful, and your seasonal chart is a tremendous help. Most of my plants are from seed (Lemons, Wysterias, Cherrys, and a Catalpa) and I have found little information after the seedling stage, they all seem to jump right to the full bark several-year-old tree care. It would be of great help to learn more about Wysteria...they have me very confused. Thank you again LOVE the videos!
Thanks Stephanie, I appreciate your kind words! Sadly I don't have any wysterias but they are on my wishlist! Right now my benches and decks are full so I need to sell or give some of my trees away before I have the space or time to add a wysteria. Hope you enjoy yours, I'm sure you'll do fine with it, just make sure the soil doesn't dry out!
You don't have idea how much you helped me. BIG Thank You !!!
Happy to have helped! Thanks 😊👍🏻
@@BlueSkyBonsai Do you use same approach on evergreen like Juniper, Pines, Spruce, Cedar, larch, yew... etc. or cutting techniques are different?
@@newera3757 For coniferous trees, the technique is different. (Sorry I haven't done any videos yet on conifers). But broadleaf evergreens, like ficus, olive, sageretia, pyracantha, privet/ligustrum etc, the technique and timing is just the same as deciduous.
@@BlueSkyBonsai can't wait for the video when you explain how to cut them step by step from the first cut to the last
Really enjoyed the video and great tips, thanks. 👍 That's a very nice Elm you were working on, what a job 👌
Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent explanations in these videos.
Thanks so much! 😊
Hi and thanks for watching! If you have any questions or comments please go ahead and write them here!
@Blue Screen Man Gaming ficus are special. They are truly tropical trees and they don't follow the energy cycle of trees in colder climates. So you can prune them at any time of year and repot them any time. Don't repot more than once a year though! It can probably go for 2 years between repotting. Roots out the ground is not a big deal, ficus do that a lot. They sometimes produce aerial roots down from branches ehich looks cool. It will survive in any window, but the more sunlight the better. More light can mean more small leaves which looks good; but less light means the tree naturally produces bigger leaves to try to absorb more light.
Don't use too much ferilizer, these trees are very vigorous even with half the amount that the fert instructions say.
At some point in spring, gently lift it out of the pot to inspect the roots. Is it completely over-rooted and pot-bound? If so, you'll need to get some granular bonsai soil and repot it, with root pruning. You can see I did that in a few of my videos in spring last year. I'll do it again this spring with lots of trees. (Don't fertilize for a month or 6 weeks after repotting).
I have just purchased a Carmona bonsai. It has 3 trunks that are not connected, all in the same pot. Do I need to consider separating them? I’m obviously just concerned about the roots being entwined. Thanks 😊
@@selinapike8952 three trees in a pot can look nice, and is sometimes called a clump when they are close together. You, the bonsai artist, need to decide if you want to always keep them together or if you want to have three separate trees. If they look good together, like a real life clump of trees, then it is fine to keep them together and always treat them like one tree with three trunks. But if you think at some future time you might want them as separate trees, then separate them now because the longer you leave them, the more entwined they will grow. It's not a question of health; it's more aesthetics.
Now to some health advice: carmona trees sometimes just die. A few years ago I pruned off a branch after repotting it, and the tree just died on me. It couldn't cope. Almost all bonsai enthusiasts have lost a Carmona at some stage. So, treat it with care... but I also recommend get a Zelkova or a Chinese elm, they are much easier to care for in the long run. HTH
What's the Evergreen pruning cycle like?
might be late for this reply. I'm confused about the idea of pruning the top to direct more energy to the trunk but also letting everything grow wild to to get a fatter trunk to generate more energy. Hope to hear back, great vid!
Greatly informative! Thank you! I have learned more watching your video than with the previous hundred... says it all :))
Thanks so much! So glad to help. Did you see Part 1 too? Which one was better in your opinion?
Lovely to watch very informative clear and precise methods thorough too. Thank you.
Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed it 😊
I've learned so much from this channel. Thanks Dave!
Thanks Stephen, glad to help!
I have tried it before and found it to be crazy but the way you did it, I will like to try again, very encouraging thanks
Thanks! Above all, enjoy it!
Thank u so much. This tow parts of vedios are better and very useful than i watched most of the vedios.
Thanks I'm glad you found them useful!
Génial! Muy buen video, información muy util. Muchas preguntas fueron respondidas a medida que veía el video. Muchas gracias! Saludos ✌️
Lovely tree, very nice , im getting a bit jealous , i have such a long way to go but will get there ..Thank you for this , really appreciate it . oh i like to pot choice too .
Thanks! If you want a laugh, this is how the tree looked 5 years ago...
flic.kr/p/WqmGQM
@@BlueSkyBonsai Im impressed.... , your right Dave . Bonsai is a game of patience as well , design , planning ,etc ..Bravo.. I Need to buy more time, any videos on that 😀
man this is a great video for us noobs. thank you!
Thanks! Glad you found it useful!
Your videos are so good.
Thanks
Thanks, I'm glad you're enjoying them!
New to bonsai and I have to say you deserve a sub sir!
Thanks! Welcome to the hobby that will stay with you for the rest of your life!!
Another wonderful and insightful video. I only found you the other day and I'm loving what I see. Expect more comments over the next few days and weeks. Peace from Berkshire.
Thanks a lot!
Glad you found my channel. I have to say, UA-cam is pretty slow about delivering relevant channels to the people who are actively looking for this type of content. I mean, I'm still discovering bonsai-related channels after 2 years of uploading and several more years of following other bonsai channels.
@@BlueSkyBonsai thank you too. Here's a question for you have you read the book "one straw revolution" ?
Great job I learned so much more from this video. Great demonstration on the blackboard. Loved it. Great explanations.
Thanks so much!! Glad you enjoyed it!
Very good explanation! Thank you!
this is the most informative an easy to understand video Ive found on youtube. thank you alot for the video. so inspiring. I might soon have the curage to try this myself :P
Great! Thanks for your kind words 😊
Did you also see the part 1 of this video pair? Hopefully that will also give you the confidence to shape your miniature tree!
@@BlueSkyBonsai Ye I saw it first ^^ Gonna keep watching more as well :)
Great video mate
Thanks mate!
Great information, made simple and meaningful, thank you
Thanks so much! 😊
Should make a video in what got you into bonsai and your favorite trees.
Thanks Alberto for the suggestions!
In part 1 of this video I talk about why I love bonsai. Maybe I should do my favourite trees in another video 🎅👍🏻
Very good and clear explanation as always. Thanks
You're welcome, and thanks for the kind comment!
Super. Thank you so much. This has helped immensely.
Thanks Steven! It is very gratifying to hear my videos have helped you.
very useful, I definitely needed this.
Cheers to your great work, this has been the best video on bonsai tutorials.
I'm 21, living in India and planning to begin with bonsai out of love for nature.
I'd love see a video from you for ultimate beginners, to grow bonsai from the scratch and also want some suggestions regarding the same for the climate in here is tropical.
Thank You.
Hi and thanks for your kind words. I will probably do a video someday on starting bonsai for beginners. But I don't get much spare time; this is just my hobby. In the meantime, please watch this video: ua-cam.com/video/a_vYCvQL5iE/v-deo.html - it is the horticultural basics of growing, and everyone doing bonsai should know this stuff, but it seems a lot of people don't know it. Hope that helps!
@@BlueSkyBonsai Thank you so much for your support and guidances. It would be of great help.
@@anubhabpaul7876 you're welcome
Thanks Blue Sky, very helpful!
Thanks Tom, glad to help!
They are so beautiful!
Thank you!!
Great video. I'm learning so much!
Thanks bro! 🌳👍🏻
@@BlueSkyBonsai you are doing a great job!
@@analogalien thanks again!
2 great videos, learned a lot, thank you
Thanks, glad you could learn from these videos!
I really like your videos Dave
Thank you Nick! I really appreciate that.
Brilliant thanku its my 1st time mine is going wild after opening it at xmas
Thanks and enjoy your xmas present! 🌳👍🏻
Very clear explanation. I have two questions for you. First one, when to transfer a plant to a bonsai pot? Next, when to start first pruning while growing from a seed?
Thanks Laxmi Sree! Great questions. replies below.. 😊👍
First, to transfer a plant to a bonsai pot, you can do it when you think the plant looks big enough, and ready for the small pot. But follow these two principles: 1. When a plant has smaller roots in a smaller pot, you are restricting (almost stopping) the growth of the plant. So, if you want the tree to grow bigger or the trunk to grow thicker, don't put it in a bonsai pot yet; keep it in a bigger pot. 2. from a horticultural aspect, you need to repot the plant in a way that does not seriously damage its health. Usually you do it in Spring. Cut the fat tap root in Spring of the second year of growth, keeping as much fine feeder roots as you can. In a bonsai you want all fine feeder roots. But, move it to bonsai pot after a few years only when you're happy to keep it at that size.
Next, when growing from seed, wait at least two years, and usually more than three years before pruning. You want the plant to grow strong before you start trying to prune it to any shape. The more leaves & sunlight, the more energy the plant gets for strong grrowth. The only thing I recommend to prune early, is if you want only one trunk and the plant is growing twin or multiple trunks, then choose the trunk you want to keep and remove the other unwanted trunks already in the first or second year so that all the growth and energy is confined to your one desired trunk.
@@BlueSkyBonsai thank you for your guidance
Good video's, very informative !
Thank you! 🌳👍🏻
thank you, sir. I learned alot from your video
love the tree! thanks for the video :)
Thanks Cheryl!
Very nice. I've got a conifer though, I'm sitting here with scissors ready to ruin it, haha. Can I cut it now? On another note, I've got an Autumn Blaze Maple I found sprouting in the yard, so I put it in a pot to make a bonsai. It was Fall and the sprout already had colored leaves. It's been inside at room temp all winter, and it still has colored leaves, lol. Did I confuse it? Only has about 8 leaves now.
Thanks! You *can* prune a juniper now but personally I wait until mid spring when the first new flush of growth has darkened. Have you seen any sign of new growth yet? If so, better to wait. Juniper would survive either way, but you'll lose more sap/resin if it's actively pushing out new growth at the time.
The maple, yes you have probably made it perceive a very warm winter! But it's ok to do that one year. It would not be okay to do that every year - deciduous trees need a dormant period each year, or after a few years they will wither away and die after about 6 or 7 years.
When it gets warmer in Spring put it outside in the sun then see how it buds out again. The remaining 8 leaves will drop eventually.
Don't put it outside if it's still very cold out, because it will think winter arrived late then wait a few more months before leafing out again.
I just bought my second ever bonsai yesterday, its a trio of skinny amur maples. I don't know what style I want it in or if the trunks will merge together over time but I'll worry about that later. This video and part 1 were both extremely informative for a beginner like myself. I really had no idea how to prune up until this point but you explained it super well! I'm definitely going to check out your other stuff too! Do you have any vids or sources you would recommend for pruning bonsai into specific styles?
Congrats on the amur! For styling, you could try broom style: ua-cam.com/video/B6wGeUdM44Q/v-deo.html
Or you could create a triple trunk:
ua-cam.com/video/PBOT9B7AkII/v-deo.html
(And this is how it looks now: ua-cam.com/users/shortsy-ZbmA2a5sU?feature=share )
Or you could turn it into a small forest:
ua-cam.com/video/XJzK02HGUAs/v-deo.html
Or you could separate the trees and make three separate styles? E.g. informal upright can be created by a series of trunk chops over about ten years: ua-cam.com/video/_wsGWXRfhNA/v-deo.html
Or you can form the bends much quicker by wiring the trunk, but I don't like doing that because it usually leaves horrible wiring scars.
Very informative. Many thanks.
Thanks for watching! Glad you found it informative.
Thanks! Liked and subscribed! Awesome clear cut video, I am starting to understand how Bonsai grows now.
Question: Does your energy chart applies to indoor Bonsai? I uses artificial UV light as well.
Indoor bonsai are generally tropical species and they don't follow the same energy calendar. For example ficus can be pruned any time of year, and repotted any time as long as they are kept in high humidity for a few days after.
But Chinese elm are not really indoor species, even though they grow ok indoors, its safest to treat them as an outdoor tree, and follow the energy calendar.
Thanks for the like & sub!!
@@BlueSkyBonsai Thanks!
Great videos, just getting into Bonsais for the first time now with a Blue Holly :)
Thanks! Enjoy your Blue Holly. Bonsai is a hobby that will stay with you even if a few of your trees fall along the way!
Your voice is so relaxing! I have a question about mine ficus. I've been growing it for 3 months now (i started from branch with 2 small leaves) and now it has 8 big leaves and it is about 20cm tall. How long should i let it grow before first trimm and how much should i trim? Thank you!
Thanks! I have 3 ficus retusa cuttings from last year, about 30-40cm tall, and I'm not going to prune them at all until next year. Every time you prune them you slow the process of thickening the trunk, so you need to decide the right time when to slow the growth. Bonsai is a lot about waiting and patience.
One thing to consider, now would be a good time to wire the trunk, if you want to, to add some movement. Consider: Peter Chan might do that, for the typical bonsai S-shape. Nigel Saunders would not; he would do many trunk chops over a long time to get the tree to naturally grow in interesting directions. Me--I'm tending towards the Nigel way, using more time and patience, and trunk chops to direct the growth. In the end you're the artist, you have to decide on your tree's future! Whatever you do, enjoy it!
Do you explain in your videos close up of what 2 leaves is? I'm an absolute beginner. Tks Tony
Hi Tony, yes basically you keep two leaves on each stem, cutting half way between the second and third leaf. That way you always allow every stem to bifurcate. This is more important at the top of the tree, but you can keep branches longer lower down the canopy, for a more natural appearance. I recently did a more up-to-date video on this here: ua-cam.com/video/AGkLb16Oqag/v-deo.html
Excellent explanation.
Thank you! 😊
Ok, another targeted question for you: these shoots that I’ve let grow very long on my forsythia...let’s say for the sake of discussion that I let them be for another growing season, maybe two. At some point, do you think the tree would abandon the smaller scale, weaker growth (the stuff preferable for a bonsai) and put all its energy into the more major growth?
Excellent question! So you have to make a decision: grow the trunk (fatter, taller) OR accept the girth of the trunk as-is and work on your branch structure. They are separate development stages and if you're working on trunk growth you can't expect to refine the branches at the same time. If you let them it grow wild for a couple of years, then you could already consider a few of the branches as the basis for your future primary branch structure "the skeleton", and you could even wire some of those young branch bases into shape already but at this stage you cannot contemplate compact foliage pads and fine ramification because you want to pack as much energy as possible into the trunk. Which means large, unrefined branches and bigger leaves until you're ready to start refining again.
Blue Sky Bonsai thanks for breaking it down so logically once again. There’s so much info in this hobby to keep an organized, coherent strategy in order. Cheers!
Oh my gosh, I'm so happy I found your channel, you've just earned a new subbie. I just got gifted my first ever bonsai and I'm obsessed with it, but i know nothing at all about them. I'm finding your videos so helpful, you really explain things so well! Your drawings really help someone like me who can't get their head around a tree's anatomy and how it all works. You're adorable, thank you! I do have a question for you though. I have a few random branches growing towards the bottom of the trunk. Should I leave those? If not, when is best to prune and should I prune in such a way the cant grow back again? There are also random leaves grieing out of the bottom of the trunk, with no branches. I'm so confused 😂. I live in the UK too 💚🌱
Thanks again Kelly, I'm also so happy you found my channel! 😊 congrats on your bonsai! What species is it? This is important for the "when to prune" question... if it is a deciduous tree you don't want to prune it in autumn, just let the leaves yellow and drop. But if it's a tropical evergreen like ficus or sageretia, you can safely prune these now in early autumn.
The leaves and shoots at the bottom of the trunk are called "suckers", clip them off whenever you see them because you don't want a branch down there, and otherwise they will just take energy away from the rest of the tree.
Low down branches, say in the first one third of the tree; usually you don't want branches that low, but you might consider keeping one or two as sacrifice branches if you want to thicken up the lower trunk to develop more of a taper on your trunk. You let them grow big for several months to fatten up the trunk below the branch, then prune them off before they'll leave too big a scar. Next summer for example.
When pruning, consider the words of Mr Miyagi in the original karate kid film, "Think tree". Go online and find a few pictures of what you'd want your tree to look like in a few years' time, think of it as a 5 year project to slowly prune it in the direction of your image. Hope that helps!
@@BlueSkyBonsai you're so amazing, thank you. It's a 12 year old Chinese Elm. It's one I intend to keep indoors, I'm assuming that's ok? It gets plenty of light (and sun, when UK weather permits 😂). I thought I'd killed it about 3/4 weeks after I got it as 80% of its leaves shed. But I think it was just re acclimatising because the majority has grown back. I did wonder what the super long branches were for, and then I found out they were 'sacrifice branches' on one of your videos. Thank goodness I didn't chop them off when I was going to 😂. I was thinking that maybe I should just leave any pruning til the end of winter, just because of the recent trauma. I dont want to make it worse. Does that sound like a good idea, or will pruning help over winter? Thanks for your responses 💚🌱
@@hells_kells thank you!! Good news: Chinese elm is probably the best species in existence for bonsai.
They survive well indoors or outdoors. They have small leaves so it's easy to imagine them as full-size trees. They are very resilient and nearly always bounce back after root pruning (Spring) or branch pruning (summer and winter). Because they are so resilient, you *could* prune the branches now, if it's becoming really unweildy and out of control. But if not, it's best to wait for winter. During autumn trees start to slow down leaf growth and instead pack down the sugars and store them as starch in the roots ready for winter. So winter is a perfect time to trim branches but not a good time to prune roots. (and spring is the opposite: as the sap moves up the tree again, just as it's budding out is the best time to prune the roots but not the branches).
Thank you very much. I live in Miami, FL and just got my first bonsai. I believe it is a Jasmine of some type. I have it on my balcony. Given it is Miami, will it still go through the season cycles? And what do you recommend for fertilizer, how much and how often? Thank you!
Hi Gary, I thought I had already answered your question but I see it here in my list of unanswered comments so I guess I didn't! basically Jasmine are a broadleaf evergreen, they do go through annual cycle but not as drastic as a deciduous tree in a cold climate. So Jasmine does go dormant in winter, at least mine does here. You can prune the Jasmine in summer, autumn or winter, about once a year or twice at most. Don't prune in spring because thats when all the new shoots and flowers buds are starting to form. So wait until after all the flowers have faded, then prune it back. Fertilize from spring through autumn, about once every 2-3 weeks with a liquid fertilizer diluted to the manufacturers instructions. When it gets really hot in summer, don't use fertilizer - above 35ºC / 95ºF I stop using fertilizer, because the plant just needs more water then without any salts.
Nice video you got! thanks for all the explanation! I just had a doubt, you say that you shouldn't prune the branches when you prune the roots because the plant needs the leaves to create energy and boost the growth of roots, but on the other hand we should prune the branches so that there aren't too many leaves for the amount of roots right? Too many leaves and too few roots increase the energy quotient, and the roots cannot bring the water and nutrients needed for all the leaves to properly photosynthesize, which will result in the plant's natural selection of the branches it wants to feed and thus allow others to dry out.
Could you explain if my perspective is logical?
Much Thanks!
did you refer to being able to prune just a few branches in order to achieve this balance?
@@DC140495 thanks for your comments!
The main idea is to keep the energy level high in the tree in general, so prune branches when all the energy is in the roots, prune roots when all the energy is in the branches. But ultimately this "rule" can be broken in many scenarios.
E.g. vigorous tropical species like ficus seem to bounce back easily if you prune roots and branches at the same time (but not Carmona - they die too easily).
If the tree is a really vigorous species AND is in a healthy state, then there is not a huge risk to prune roots and branches at the same time, as you said because less leaves draw up less water from the temporarily depleted roots. But there is a trick you can do to minimize or stop the tree shedding leaves after root-pruning: just put a clear plastic bag over the whole tree & pot, with misted water inside for 100% humidity, in shade for a week or so. That reduces transpiration for a time so the leaves stay green but don't suck up much water.
In any case a deciduous tree can shed many of its leaves in summer and leaf out again before autumn so depending on the species it's not a major problem if it does lose a lot of leaves. Of course coniferous trees are different, if a pine branch loses all its needles the branch will die...
Did I answer your question?? 🤔
@@BlueSkyBonsai Yes, thank you very much for the clarification! The art of bonsai is a world of knowledge! Your explanation makes sense! And I didn't know about that bag trick, I just use it to grow cuttings. Keep up the videos, they are very good and very enlightening!
@@BlueSkyBonsai Root pruning when all the energy is in the branches means that you should prune in summer? Right?
@@Junky_Monkey yes you can still safely prune the branches in August. It's getting a bit late for root pruning now though, I wouldn't prune the roots now until next spring.
Thank u sir...u are just awesome....keep going🙌
Thanks, I appreciate your kind words 🙏🏻🌳
Hi - very helpful indeed. But I can't see if you mentioned anywhere when to prune, and when not to, evergreen bonsai which was left unmarked on your whiteboard. And for that matter, succulent bonsai such as portulacaria, jade, etc. Would appreciate your advice please. Thanks!
Thanks Sergy! Good question, when I published this I just ran out of time and planned to come back to the evergreens. For coniferous trees I would recommend either mid winter or mid summer, but not at the same time as root pruning. And leave a stub like in this video: ua-cam.com/video/TROnvlE4JF4/v-deo.html
For tropicals that you would keep indoors from autumn through to spring, you can prune them really any time of year.. at least I have never managed to kill a portulacaria or ficus or sageretia by pruning them. I have killed a Carmona Fukien Tea I think by pruning the roots at the same time as a large branch. So now I stick to the principle of never prune roots at the same time as a major branch - for all my trees. And for older or more special trees I will only do one major "insult" in a year. My main goal is to keep them alive and healthy forever, whereas looking like a "perfect" bonsai can always wait...
I believed that the principles you expound on timing of pruning bonsai is applicable to gardenia and azalea pruning in my yard, thank you. By the way why are bonsai cutters without springs in them like regular pruners?
Thank you, great question! What I can tell you about these bonsai tools is they have enormous amount of leverage - the very long handles compared to the small distance from the pivot to the blade. Maybe the strong leverage is the reason that they don't need a spring.
Maybe for simplicity too... Springs break easier than pivots I guess.
I love azaleas and gardenia, I will do a video about azaleas soon.
I always like your videos
Thanks so much!
I was given a Chinese elm as a gift and am just learning about it. Your pruning videos are very helpful but I need to know when to fertilize please.
Congrats on the Chinese elm! They are the best type of tree to start with. I suggest a liquid fertilizer and you dilute a tiny amount in your watering can, the instructions will you tell you how much to dilute for how much water. The rule of thumb is: fertilize every 14 days in spring and autumn, but you can stop fertilizing in the two hottest months of summer and coldest two of winter. It's okay to under-fertilize but not good to over-fertilize, so if you miss one feed, don't add more to try to make up for it.
Thank you so much, very informative. In regards to seasonal pruning, I have a Chinese Privot that I keep indoor year round with a grow light. I've read that in this scenario it can be pruned any time of year, is that accurate?
Glad you found it informative! Re. Indoor Chinese Privet, yes you can prun at any time of year. I have one in the kitchen windowsill and prune it about 4 or 5 times a year.
Love the way you explain "basic" tree growth; just "simple enough for even me to understand!! However, PLEASE use a better coloured marker on your whiteboard; maybe BLACK? I can see very little of what you draw!!!
Thanks ! Glad you found it helpful.
These two videos were in 2020. since then I have adopted a "virtual whiteboard" so the pens never squeak and never dry out! I hope this video will be good for your next view- The 3 keys to Bonsai Health: ua-cam.com/video/a_vYCvQL5iE/v-deo.html
Hi Dave - thanks for a clear and informative video! I am very new to bonsai and I have a few questions about pruning. I have a Chinese Elm that I am wintering at a nursery and an Australian Brush Cherry that I keep indoors. First, should I do a major pruning twice a year(winter and summer) or more frequently? I read that since the brush cherry is a hedge-like tree it needs to be pruned often. Second, my brush cherry just had a mealy bug infection that was successfully treated last month. How long should I wait to prune it? I already did a pruning in November. Lastly, I read that "you should never prune all the new growth at once". What does that mean? Can I harm the tree if I take off too many leaves? After you have pruned a branch to two leaves, do you have to let the next two branches grow and prune them back to two leaves, meaning that you need to let the tree get gradually bigger? Is it possible to keep the tree the same size or do you always need to let it grow slowly? Sorry for all the questions - I started bonsai in the middle of the pandemic so I was never able to have in-person conversations with experts.
Hi Celia, congrats on starting into thos wonderful journey, it will stay with you for the rest of your life even if some of your mini trees come and go. I normally give straight hortucultural answers to these questions but in this case I think it might help to think of bonsai on a meta level, what is all about underneath the branches, roots and pruning decisions. Bonsai can be an artistic expression of the continual struggle between the harsh elements of the environment and the need to grow, flower and reproduce. This is represented artistically by maintaining a balance between beautiful harmony and the visually jarring. So back to your questions: the chinese elm is very resilient and could easily take pruning 5 or 6 times a year, like you are the "harsh environmental elements", however you also need to let it grow out sometimes and let branches break out of that beautiful harmonic silhouette that you create when you prune it. So twice a year, summer and winter, is really the best regime in my opinion. You can prune back all the new growth on a *vigorous* plant or tree. If you see it is vigorous then it is also (generally speaking) in good health. If it's not doing so well, don't prune, give it some TLC and keep a close eye to avoid reinfestations.
Yes, prune back branches to 2 leaves then prune back the resultant secondary branches to 2 leaves, then tertiary and so on. That's how you get beautiful ramification, a realistic looking twigginess to the tree. Back to the "balance" point. You the artist have to make the judgement, between tree size and realistic natural looking tree: that is the balance between the organism's need to grow to absorb light, against the forces of nature impeding its growth. Does that help??
I also recommend this video on essential bonsai health - this one is purely horticultural: ua-cam.com/video/a_vYCvQL5iE/v-deo.html
@@BlueSkyBonsai Thank you so much for all this wonderful information! I think now I can plan my pruning for each tree with a better understanding of how to do it safely and aesthetically. I appreciate the other video too! Thanks again! Hope you are staying healthy :)
@@celiadances2147 thanks! And enjoy your mini trees 🌳👍🏻
Sir, if the stem has no buds yet under the leaves, then we don't prune. Is that right?
Hi Adrian, good question! When each leaf has fully grown it should have a tiny bud in its stem pit at the base of the petiole, even if you can't see it. So if the leaves have hardened (not growing more) then they should have buds and you can prune down to just above those leaves.
Only the first leaf on any branch stem may lack the bud.
If a leaf is still tender and growing, (not yet hardened), then probably the bud is not yet developed.
Hi, with what you said about pruning deciduous trees when their energy levels are high within the tree, does this also apply to air layering? Could I for instance, air layer an oak this winter since all its leaves have fallen off? Or is air layering to be done when there's hardened foliage to allow for photosynthesis?
Thanks again. Great videos.. been binge watching your channel!
Thanks - glad to hear you're enjoying my videos!
I would definitely wait until the sap is flowing in spring to do the air layer. You *can* do it when the first leaves are unfurling, but there's no major time advantage (especially if there's still a chance of frost harming the first leaves as they unfurl)... in other words, yes I would wait till the first flush of leaves has hardened.
how do you get the primary branch at the bottom to be so thick? do you also prune it back to 2 leaves each time it grows?
Ultimately you need to let that primary branch grow out for 3 or so years. Prune it only once a year to keep it manageable. But if you keep pruning it into shape several times a year it will keep its nice shape but it will take longer to thicken up. So be patient, and be prepared to let it grow out a LOT before you cut back each year...
I've recently started using zeolite substrate, lot's of pummice and other stone sorts. I wonder whether acadama might be a substrate I should mix that with. What do you think?
Zeolite looks excellent- I've never used it but might give it a try. As long as I can get it in granules of 2-4mm here in Spain.
Akadama is my primary bonsai soil ingredient, I add other components to the mix (pumice or kiryuzuna for holding soil structure better than akadama, and pine bark for best water retention) all seived to remove the dust and get uniform granule size.
Akadama is a great compromise between good water retention and structure-holding for about 2 years.
But if you have severe winters where you live with many months of freezing temperatures, akadama might not be best because repeated freeze/thaw cycles can break up the akadama granules. A few frosty mornings won't cause the issue (it's not a problem here in Spain) but three months of freeze/thaw each winter could turn your akadama into a mush.
Zeolite apparently holds its structure so should go well mixed with akadama.
One big advantage of akadama is that it changes colour/darkness a lot when wet so you can see immediately when the soil surface is dry and needs watering. This advantage is also true of kiryu, but not for pumice.
Does Zeolite change colour when wet?
Thanks
Thanks so much!!
Have just watched the two linked videos - that was so instructive, simplified and helpful. Thank you. With regard to ‘Evergreens’ does the pruning cycle differ from the ‘Deciduous’ one ?
Thanks Peter.
Coniferous evergreens - always outdoors - I use the same calendar as for deciduous trees.
Outdoor broadleaf evergreens - like olives, almost the same but you *can* still prune in early autumn if really necessary.
Tropical evergreens like ficus - indoors from autumn to spring - can prune any time of year. HTH.
@@BlueSkyBonsai Thank you for the clarification. Can I ask if you ever done any videos on pruning Pines as I have struggled to find one that covers this ?
@@petercalbraith6226 I have not done any videos about pruning pines.. sorry!
Dear Dave, thanks a lot for the video, I just subscribed your channel! Could you please explain the "energy circle" for the evergreen trees as well?
Thanks for now and best regards from Germany!
Hi Marion, thanks!
Evergreens are very varied, that's why I didn't put them in this video.
Conifers - same energy calendar as deciduous. But it's less obvious when they're starting to go dormant in autumn, and starting to wake up in spring.
Tropical broadleaf evergreens - no energy calendar... as long as they stay warm all year round, you can prune them any time of year.
Temperate broadleaf evergreens (olive, holm oak, shrubs like laurel/bay, boxwood) can be pruned in s autumn instead of winter, since they don't throw off their leaves.
Hope that helps.
@@BlueSkyBonsai dear Dave, thanks for your answer, I'll keep watching your great videos! Kind regards from Germany
Hello Blue Sky Bonsai, did you use an RF 85mm f2 lens to record this video? I want to buy these lenses !! Are they ?
Hi, I shot this particular video before I bought the RF 85/2.
The first video I used the 85/2 was this:
ua-cam.com/video/TROnvlE4JF4/v-deo.html
It is an excellent lens for photography, and quite good for video but not brilliant. The AF is a bit slow so if you walk around while shooting then sometimes your fous can stray a bit. But, the quality is astounding so if you can shoot in manual focus then you get fantastic results. If you look at my most recent videos, nearly all the close-up filming was done on the 85/2 with camera on a tripod focussed manually. For close-up work I stop down to f/4 or even smaller aperture, otherwise only one tiny slither of the tree is in focus.... but for longer distance work - like across the garden - aperture f/2 is absolutely stunning.
I'm kinda confused with sacrificial branch. I thought that when you cut a vigorous branch then ther resources to maintain that branch will go to other branch that has less vigor.
The only purpose of a sacrifice branch is to generate extra sugars that will help fatten the trunk below the branch. Then you chop off the sacrifice branch as soon as it appears to be getting too big at the trunk, so you want to avoid getting too big a scar when you chop it. Does that help?
Hi I have recently inherited two bonsai trees that have seen better days they were donated by a bad owner they came with very few leaves and some branches that have no leaves at all and some leaves that are brown and yellow and falling off.. is there any hope of me reviving them
If so how would you start Think your videos are great very informative and easy to watch and understand
Hi Paul, thanks for your comments and question. I think there is a reasonable chance of bringing the trees back to life, ultimately it depends on a few factors: do you know what species of tree they are? How long did they go without water? If they are Chinese elm , which may be the most common species used for bonsai, then you have got a good chance of reviving them. Even a few weeks after they lose all their leaves, they usually start budding again and leaf out nicely. Just keep watering them and keep them outdoors in daylight without letting the strong direct sunlight at them. As soon as any sign the soil is drying then water them. Do you know what species of tree they are?
@@BlueSkyBonsai hi thanks for the reply i am pretty sure the trees are one of the ficus species as they have the same type oval leaves and the tree stands up on its roots. the problem with the trees was that they were allowed to dry out in the recent heatwave and most of the leaves fell off. Now they do have some leaves but are sparse and look a little small. i have put them outside where they get sunlight for only part of the day and kept them moist for now. lets hope they make it through as they wasn't cheap when they were purchased three months ago and if they do i get to keep them anyways .
@@paulmacdonald2284 i think you have hit the "jackpot" for one of the best species of bonsai to survive drought. The tree naturally throws off all the older and larger leaves that it cannot supply enough water to, and retains the younger smaller leaves that don't demand as much water and can still supply some energy back into the branches from the light/photosynthesis. Long-story short: keep giving them the treatment as you are, and the first sign of cold at night bring them indoors to your brightest window. Where in the world are you??
Blue Sky Bonsai I am located in the West Midlands uk
@@paulmacdonald2284 ok so look out for night time temperature of below 10° and then the ficus needs to be indoors. On a windowsill but not just above a radiator. Will be interested to hear how they recover 👍🏻
excellent!!!
Thanks! 😊
I just got my first bonsai. I'm hesitant to prune because it says it can lose up to 20% of leaves adjusting to new environment. Also, mine grows upwards so I'm unsure. Any advice helps. Thank you!
Hi, what species of tree is it? Definitely a good idea to allow it to acclimatise to the new environment for a couple of weeks. Do you have it indoors or outdoors? If it's indoors, make sure it's next to a bright window. And don't let the roots get dry... ever! Please see my video "the 3 keys to bonsai health": ua-cam.com/video/a_vYCvQL5iE/v-deo.html
@@BlueSkyBonsai I have a ficus bonsai. I have had it for about a week. It needs to be trimmed back but I'm waiting. It has some roots coming out near the bottom of the trunk but they are black. I don't know whether they are healthy or just covered in dirt. I have my bonsai indoors in front of my sliding door but I bought an indoor grow light for it...will that be sufficient? Thank you for your reply and I love your knowledge of this majestic plant. Maybe our paths will meet someday! Take care my friend
@@marybisson2411 thank you, wow 3 hours of my videos? Thank you... I didn't even know I had published that much 😂
You have acquired a very good species as a first bonsai; ficus look good and they are difficult to kill!
Assuming your sliding door lets through natural light, it should be fine. And with a grow light for darker days, it should do very well.
At some stage, (not urgently) maybe in October or so, you could try slipping the entire root ball & soil carefully out of the pot to inspect the roots. I guess you've seen my recent videos on Reasons to Repot and 25 tips while repotting? But as before, let it get used to its new environment first, and see how it responds to its first trim in a week or two. Ficus drip a small amount of milky sap when you make a cut, that's fine. Think of it as nature's own wood sealant!
Above all, enjoy your small tree!
Thank you! And yes, 3 hours. I want this tree to survive and I have always had a black thumb lol but it's because I didn't have the knowledge of the specific plants. I have another bonsai coming that looks like a weeping willow. I'll be watching and rewatching videos. I also found a older gentleman that owns a bonsai sanctuary in Europe? I believe. I don't know where to start with the pruning. I have yet to see the root ball. I don't want to do too much to it since it's still small. About 6".
Hi, great videos, some great advice here. I have a Chinese Privet (Ligustrum Sinesis) which was gifted at Christmas, it's being kept in indoors in a south facing window with plenty of light, and I'm using a moisture meter to aide watering. The tree has been growing new shoots quite happily, some if which are more than 4cm long, should I prune these? I'm in the UK so we're in the Winter phase. Also, I've noticed there are some tiny green shoots coming from the root base.....should these also be snipped? Any advice would be welcome!
Thank you Jamie! Congrats on your ligustrum, the privet is a great species for bonsai. If you're keeping it indoors you can prune the longer shoots pretty much any time of year because the indoor warmth is similar to an outdoor tree in the tropics. It will be fine. The new shoots from the root base are called suckers, you want to get rid of those as soon as you see them. They are typical for any tree or shrub with a clump- or bush- growth habit. Oaks, olives and pomegranates also do it. The suckers take energy away from your tree's growth so you want to nip them in the bud, literally.
Privets grow roots profusely so be prepared to repot it with root pruning every year in spring.
Brilliant m, thanks for your advice. I’ve also noticed some straggly roots growing up out of the soil at the edge of the pot, is that a sign that it may need re-potting? If so should I want until Spring?
@@jamier6477 yes, wait until spring unless you see all the leaves start to turn half yellowy, because that's the sign that it is potbound and can't supply enough water up the trunk. If you're interested you can see my privet progess here, the first few photos are potbound so you see how bad it can get and still survive fine after repotting. www.flickr.com/gp/davidhseymour/Bpq90s
I have four indoor trees under grow lights elm, bird plun ,brush cherry, and fukien tea how will i now when its the right time prune and how hard
Hi, Sounds like you have a nice selection of bonsai trees. You can essentially prune the trees in summer and winter, but avoid Spring while the tree is flushing out its new leaves and stem growth. Between summer and autumn, you can prune any of the evergreens, but I recommend leaving the deciduous trees (elm, maple and larch) until early winter, or even next summer / late spring. Any trees that are still tiny and growing from seed or cuttings - don't prune those, let them grow unhindered for at least two years, maybe more.
How hard to prune back? at the top of the tree, leave only one or two leaves on each shoot. Lower down, keep each branch longer. In your mind's eye, get an image of a tree in nature than prune to that approximate shape. I did one recently in this video:
ua-cam.com/video/AGkLb16Oqag/v-deo.html
Hope that helps!
8:52 I though i stepped on my dog hahaha
😂😂 sorry about that!
Hi Dave, sorry if this question has been asked, I'm new and have taken 4 3 year old Pohutukawa's and am growing them under lights. It's coming into summer now so I have them on 16 hours of light... but your seasons explanation has me thinking... do you think I should mimic the seasons with my light timing or do I have some advantages of keeping them in certain seasons for longer/shorter? Thanks so much!
Hi! I don't have personal experience of Pohutukawa trees, but in general a young tree of only 3 years can cope with 12-16 hours a day of artificial grow lights without problem. Grow lamps are never as strong as direct sunlight anyway. In summer, 16 hours will be good and in winter you could reduce to 12 if you want.
They look like very pretty trees, I've never seen them in Europe.