EV Charger Series: Doncaster EV Ultra Armoured Cable
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2024
- Many of our visitors drive electric cars and so it seems a good idea to have an EV charger installed. So, I have decided to make 3 videos - this first one about an innovative form of cable that is ideal for EV charger installation. The second will describe what an EV charger company may ask you, as the house owner, to do as part of the site survey and the final, very short video, will show a couple of clips of my charger being installed.
I am very grateful to Doncaster Cables for supplying the sample of cable used in this video. - Навчання та стиль
Only "our" Peter Parfitt gets it done; where even a wire is interesting. Thank you kind Sir. It is a pleasure to see each video you create; wit yet another "Show us how do it". Wow! Can't wait for episode 2 and 3 dear friend. As always.
Hi Pat, Many thanks for this. I hope you and your family are well and wish you all a very happy and safe Christmas. Peter
Watching you run cable it shows you were an engineer previously. Actually making a template for the radius and all. Watching as an electrician it just makes me chuckle.
As it's often said on the job 'i don't need the engineers opinion'. The radius they often give are rather conservative and you can get them much tighter without issue.
EV Chargers keep changing I remember setting them up 5 years ago and they have so much more tech to them now.
You manage to make the most boring tasks at work for me, be so interesting.
Hi Joe, You are very kind. Cheers. Peter
Good evening a very interesting video. Thanks.
Thank you too. Peter
Hello Peter! As always an excellent step by step tutorial! However, I was taught to drill any external to internal holes by drilling a hole from the external brickwork inward, creating a ‘rising’ hole rather than an horizontal hole. Notwithstanding any capillary action, in the event of a ‘seal’ failure this prevents any rainwater from entering the building!
Hi Len, I remember being instructed in the same way but in 50 plus years of doing things like this I have never seen any evidence of water ingress through a hole like this, especially one where there is a fairly large box on the outside. Many thanks for the reminder and you are right to say that it is good practice. Cheers. Peter
Nice video. Now waiting for the other 2. 😃👍. If the next video doesn’t come before Christmas, have a nice Christmas 🦃 🎄
Hi Rui, Many thanks and I wish you and your family a safe and happy Christmas. Peter
Peter parfitt é daqueles homens que sabe fazer de tudo nessa vida, e muito bem feito, é mestre e ainda ensina e compartilha seu conhecimento com o próximo, eu fico muito feliz por você amigo, ótimo natal pra você e sua família Peter! Muito obrigado pelas informações.
Hi Marcos, You are very kind - thank you. I wish you and your family a very safe and happy Christmas. Peter
Absolutely brilliant.. I've been looking for cable that can power and deliver data so I went to Doncaster cables and found exactly what I'm after.. and it was a great price too!! It'll certainly be used when I come to upgrade to a larger 14x12 shed.
One thing I'd like to know more about if you can help is noise reduction/suppression that I can fit to the structure of a shed before it's lined.. thanks Peter
Hi Mark, Well done on the cable. For noise reduction try and create about 75 - 100 mm of insulation between the outer wall and a new dry lined wall. There are many technical ways of improving it which will not be worth the effort if you are more than 20 m from neighbours. Good luck. Peter
Very interesting video Peter. Too late for me as I have already had a 10mm square armoured cable installed for our supply to the garage (workshop) which is split at a convenient point with a junction box which can then feed a charging point if we decide to install one later. The first short length from the house to the junction box is surface mounted and then it goes underground (moled ) across r the driveway. I didn't realise I might need a data link to the main consumer unit in the house so will need to run a separate one for this if we go ahead with a charging point unless they are made with WiFi links built in which might be a likely development. Did you get a government grant for the installation? Mike
Hi Mike, Our Pod Point and most of the chargers on the market will have WiFi but some need a hard wired connection to a router. The latter can sometimes be overcome if the particular EV charger has a USB socket inside into which a WiFi stick can be inserted. The very best solution is to have data cables within the armoured sleeve which is now too late for you. The problem now arises, similar to friends with electric gates, that a non armoured data cable running outside underground is prone to failure. Government grants are available to anyone in the UK provided they have an EV or can prove that one is to be delivered by 31st March 2022. They also need off street parking on their property. Cheers. Peter
Is armoured cable required as your install is not being buried ?
Hi Gus, Techically no (for the UK) but were it not armoured the cable would need to put into trunking which adds considerable time to the installation process. If you look at videos of EV charger installation you will see that 99% are done with armoured cable. If the work is done for a new build then it would be easy to use normal twin and earth cable as long as it is the right conductor size, inside the building and either within the walls or in trunking. Peter
...and let me make it clear that the work shown is this video will be done by the installer. Peter
You need some ( not all) fireproof fixings for that cable, particularly over the door
I agree, no protection in the existing install against premature collapse in the event of a fire. I believe this is now a requirement post events such a Shirley Towers in Southampton where lives were lost due to cables collapsing in a fire. Something like Screwfix 875HV look much better than those clips you have used and comply with the requirements.
Hi Matt, Many thanks for that and for the Screwfix product code. Peter
Or a couple of bits of fixoband if it's not on show. Also,if not a specific requirement of the install, the hole in the wall would be better sloping down from inside to out
Would all of this work not usually be done by the installer?
Yes, and I said so many times. Peter
I wish I could switch to an EV but I can't seem to find one which can match the trunk volume my Toyota RAV4 has. And sadly Toyota has no plans to make a genuine electric RAV4 any time soon (only hybrid because they're still in bed with big oil).
The max charging power for a Tesla home charger in Canada/USA is 48amps at 240VAC which requires a minimum of a #8 copper conductor which I think would be 10 mmsq. When running cable in this type of situation, I favor going larger than the minimum calculated load.
Reasons:
If the cable is particularly long, voltage drop may become an issue, but is mitigated by using a thicker conductor.
Labor to route and install the cable is usually greater than the cable cost and significantly more than difference in price between, for example, #10 and a #8 conductor sizes hence allowing the for a bigger load to be installed on the cable in the future.
A larger cable allows the installation of a circuit breaker panel at the load end of the cable from which the primary load (car charger, or welder, or hot tub, etc.) can be used in conjunction with ancillary loads such as lighting or ventilation or convenience outlets.
That said, in this case where the cable is quite short, yes, put in just what is needed for the load to be installed.
Hi Chee, The max current here for a single phase EV Charger is 32 amps (at 240 volts). Technically that means a 4 sq mm cable would suffice but with my run being 12 m I have gone for 6 sq mm cable to minimise voltage drop. It happens that almost all UK installers will use 6 sq mm cable to add a bit of future proofing as well. Cheers. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Is the 32 amps max a legislated maximum or is that the maximum for some other reason?
Hi Chee, In the UK the charging power for home use is either 3.6 kw, 7 kw or 22 kw. The 22 kw solution needs 3 phases in the property. For normal houses the options are therefore 3.6 or 7 kw. I do not know how these figures were decided but that is what we have. The power available with high power DC charging units can be much higher of course. So, 7 kw on a 240 v supply is just under 30 amps. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop In the uk most properties have a 100amp fuse going to the meter, some very small or older properties maybe only 50 amps, therefore a sustained 30amp load is all that can realistically be catered for allowing for other significant loads like an electric oven/or shower. In this specific situation there could be a workshop machine running.
What I don’t understand why the charging point needs to be linked to the internet? A simple point to point data connection is all that should be required to connect the charging point to the household power monitor.
Hi Andrew, On your first point the Pod Point (in this case but most other makes are the same) has a current clamp that fits around the incoming live supply to the property. That measures the overall current being drawn at the property and is relayed, via the shielded pair of data wires in the armoured cable, to the charger which then ensures that the amount of current that goes to the car is such that the 100 amp fuse is not blown. On the second point, the Pod Point can be controlled either by the car or via an app on a mobile phone. In order for the phone and the charger to talk to each other the charger has to be connected, usually via wifi, to the internet. Also, the charger will get software updates over the internet. Peter
One phase?
Yes, in most UK homes only one phase is brought in. In a street the houses will take their load from different phases in order to provide a rough balance. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Thank you for the explanation Peter. You also have mains cables with a fuse in the plug, and 110V and 230V. Maybe you could do a video about that? Good stuff anyway
We only have 110 volts for equipment on building or renovation sites. Our mains plugs do have 13 amp fuses with wiring designed to allow up to just over 3kw per socket. Normally out sockets are wire in a ring with the start and end meeting back at the consumer unit (fuse board). We also have residual current devices (circuit breakers) at the consumer unit to detect any leakage to earth in which case the circuit is broken in order to protect people. Cheers. Peter
Hi Peter, sorry for being a bit off topic here but I think you will like this. I know you like the Kapex as much as I do, and that you made a video about how to make a zero clearance fence for it, but have a look at this product from a small company called Colliflower. This is their demo video ua-cam.com/video/COqBxTyuO4E/v-deo.html
(but perhaps you had already seen it.)
I'll be installing this system on my Kapex this weekend. 👍
Hi Muru, Many thanks - I will look at this. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop After using it for a couple of days I can confirm that, while extremely convenient to use, the dust collection suffers if using the tall block provided. I made new blocks which are 1/2 and 3/4 of the height of the original one and it improve the dust collection a lot. However, as with any fence obstructing the dust inlet, it's far from ideal. Nevertheless I would recommend it to anyone looking for a zero-clearance fence which doesn't take up extra space (and has the money for it. It's not cheap).
Hi Muru, I thought that would be the case when I saw it. Cheers. Peter
OK, I'm done. One too many mentions of, uh, Doncaster Cables.