I have a serious amount of play on my 6R Polo and keep putting off this job. Thanks for the video, it has given me a bit more confidence to bite the bullet on this. I might also just replace the entire shafts rather than go through the hassle of pulling the CV joints apart as I should be able to get replacements from China pretty cheaply as they have the same model there and parts should be easy to get hold of. They Haynes manual also recommends you replace the axle nut each time you remove it although I know many mechanics just re-use the old one. I guess the tolerances for these are pretty high so probably overkill but wonder if anyone has any thoughts on this. If the nuts are cheap and readily available, might as well do that just for extra peace of mind.
Thanks for this vid. Everything nicely explained and some good tips there, e.g. jamming spanner into brake disc to lock rotation. Showed me how to remove the driveshaft from the hub, which was holding up my strut replacement job.
Just a note on this. That joint that didn't move properly had been put together incorrectly. On the inner and outer parts of the joint you will see grooves that the balls run in? You'll notice that some have a wide space between them, and some a narrow space between them. A wide space on the outer should be adjacent to a narrow space on the inner. You'll see that by chance, the first was like this, and worked, but the other, the narrow gaps on inner and outer were facing each other. Also, there is a groove around the outside of the joint, that is USUALLY the gearbox side of the joint. Refit them as they come off though. These were correct.
Great informative video. One part you did skip over though was how you freed off the binding cv joint after you installed all the ball bearings. Can you remember how you managed it? Thanks.
When they bind you just need to twist it in the opposite direction, or pry out one or more of the abll bearings until it frees up and sometimes I'll hammer on it gently with a deadblow or brass hammer to get it moving again
That joint had been put together incorrectly. On the inner and outer parts of the joint you will see grooves that the balls run in? You'll notice that some have a wide space between them, and some a narrow space between them. A wide space on the outer should be adjacent to a narrow space on the inner. You'll see that by chance, the first was like this, and worked, but the other, the narrow gaps on inner and outer were facing each other.
@@garycrofts1421 thanks for the comment and the info, everyday is a school day even when you've been at it a long time. I didn't flip it over which may surprise you i just tapped it very gently with a plastic hammer and fitted the last ballbearing and fitted it up to the car, been a long time since I did this job and it's still working fine with zero issues So you think it would cause issues down the line?
Planning to do my mk4 tdi boots, while in there i want to change the oil seals on the gearbox, cars originals still on 18 years old, oil sweating oit little bit now. One boot teared so im replacing all 4.
The screwdriver in brake disc method is not a good idea as all the force is placed on the little countersunk set screw. In my case it sheared the screw before it came loose.
Thanks for the comment 😁 yes sadly they are known for snapping and rounding out, ive never personally had the issue you've had and thanks to you I won't have to either 😁👍🏼
Can anyone tell me what size socket I need for the outer driveshaft retaining nut,and what size Torx for the 6 inner bolts? Thanks in advance! Great video,thanks for posting!👌
Has anyone here had problems with a steering wheel vibrations at higher speeds?? I've been through all the likely culprits but nothing has changed yet. Im wondering if this will fix my problem...
Once you know you are going to cut off boots, you might as well dip the assembly in your favourite parts cleaner and rinse the black grease away. That's what I do at least. Then I'm working on clean parts and I can see what I'm doing.
Thanks for the comment yes you’re right the driveshaft bolt is torque to yield and the manufacturer says it should be replaced but the balljoint nuts are not torque to yield and are reuse able
For what it's worth I think it's worth getting an entire set, they aren't very expensive and a single socket often costs not much less. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-8pcs-1-2-Impact-Spline-Socket-Bit-Set-M5-M18-Bits-Cr-Mo-78mm-length-B1690/274277445430?hash=item3fdc35af36:g:PcsAAOSwGAheTPw3
On this car I don’t think that is possible since the inner section of the shaft stub is held into the gearbox with a single long bolt. Some polos have a different driveshaft that just pushes in and has no bolts
Excellent demonstration and also step by step illustration. Talks through exactly what he does. Brilliantly presented. 5 star rateing
Thanks for the comment!!
Very good video. I will do this job this week, alongside one gearbox seal.
Hope it goes well !
I have a serious amount of play on my 6R Polo and keep putting off this job. Thanks for the video, it has given me a bit more confidence to bite the bullet on this. I might also just replace the entire shafts rather than go through the hassle of pulling the CV joints apart as I should be able to get replacements from China pretty cheaply as they have the same model there and parts should be easy to get hold of.
They Haynes manual also recommends you replace the axle nut each time you remove it although I know many mechanics just re-use the old one. I guess the tolerances for these are pretty high so probably overkill but wonder if anyone has any thoughts on this. If the nuts are cheap and readily available, might as well do that just for extra peace of mind.
If you replace the entire shaft it will likely come with a new axle nut. J&R driveshaft are very good, and cheap.
All the best!
@@maxautouk Thanks for getting back to me on this. I'll make sure they supply the nut when I order the part.
😀
Did he put the new ones??. My customers gets the new ones
Why do you mean?
Thanks for this vid. Everything nicely explained and some good tips there, e.g. jamming spanner into brake disc to lock rotation. Showed me how to remove the driveshaft from the hub, which was holding up my strut replacement job.
Thanks for the comment, glad you got it done
Thanks for the comment im glad the video helped... If you have any tips or your own you found helpful post them here in the comments
Just a note on this. That joint that didn't move properly had been put together incorrectly. On the inner and outer parts of the joint you will see grooves that the balls run in? You'll notice that some have a wide space between them, and some a narrow space between them. A wide space on the outer should be adjacent to a narrow space on the inner. You'll see that by chance, the first was like this, and worked, but the other, the narrow gaps on inner and outer were facing each other. Also, there is a groove around the outside of the joint, that is USUALLY the gearbox side of the joint. Refit them as they come off though. These were correct.
Great info, thanks dude
Great informative video. One part you did skip over though was how you freed off the binding cv joint after you installed all the ball bearings. Can you remember how you managed it? Thanks.
When they bind you just need to twist it in the opposite direction, or pry out one or more of the abll bearings until it frees up and sometimes I'll hammer on it gently with a deadblow or brass hammer to get it moving again
That joint had been put together incorrectly. On the inner and outer parts of the joint you will see grooves that the balls run in? You'll notice that some have a wide space between them, and some a narrow space between them. A wide space on the outer should be adjacent to a narrow space on the inner. You'll see that by chance, the first was like this, and worked, but the other, the narrow gaps on inner and outer were facing each other.
@@garycrofts1421 thanks for the comment and the info, everyday is a school day even when you've been at it a long time. I didn't flip it over which may surprise you i just tapped it very gently with a plastic hammer and fitted the last ballbearing and fitted it up to the car, been a long time since I did this job and it's still working fine with zero issues
So you think it would cause issues down the line?
Planning to do my mk4 tdi boots, while in there i want to change the oil seals on the gearbox, cars originals still on 18 years old, oil sweating oit little bit now. One boot teared so im replacing all 4.
Good thinking
My bolts have snapped off and now the axle is hanging off , can I take the whole thing out of the gearbox?
Yea there is a bolt in the middle of the flange where the splined section goes into the gearbox
Hello
Do you drain the gearbox before removing the transmission? THANK YOU
No, it is not necessary to drain the gearbox to perform this repair.
@@maxautouk Great, thank you
😀
Great video many thanks!!
عمل متقن شكرا لك
Thank you
Hi there at 17:49 is that gasket broken or they always look like that I jus removed mine and it looks like that please don’t say I have to replace it
In an ideal world you would replace it but you an easily make your own out of gasket paper if yours is broken
@@maxautouk mine looks exactly how it is in the video is that broken? Or they always have a cut in them like tht
No it should be a solid piece, I have seen them fitted without them at all and they are fine but I always prefer to make my own if needed
The screwdriver in brake disc method is not a good idea as all the force is placed on the little countersunk set screw. In my case it sheared the screw before it came loose.
Thanks for the comment 😁 yes sadly they are known for snapping and rounding out, ive never personally had the issue you've had and thanks to you I won't have to either 😁👍🏼
Can Just put one or two hub bolts straight in too before trying this and it won’t put all pressure on the small screw.
Good idea! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment
Can anyone tell me what size socket I need for the outer driveshaft retaining nut,and what size Torx for the 6 inner bolts? Thanks in advance! Great video,thanks for posting!👌
M8 spline, not torx
@@paulmckenna7718thanks for that Paul!👌
And I believe the socket need is a 12point but I can’t recall the size - sorry
Would that driveshaft fit a Seat 2007 Cordoba 1.4 TDI?
If it has the BNM Engine then yes, it's likely to be the same
Has anyone here had problems with a steering wheel vibrations at higher speeds?? I've been through all the likely culprits but nothing has changed yet. Im wondering if this will fix my problem...
I assume you’ve balanced the wheels?
@maxautouk multiple times. I've had them balance and aligned.
Once you know you are going to cut off boots, you might as well dip the assembly in your favourite parts cleaner and rinse the black grease away. That's what I do at least. Then I'm working on clean parts and I can see what I'm doing.
Thanks for the comment, good idea
Good video but you should use new bolts on the ball joint and, a new hub nut.
Thanks for the comment yes you’re right the driveshaft bolt is torque to yield and the manufacturer says it should be replaced but the balljoint nuts are not torque to yield and are reuse able
How to remove boot rubber for driving shaft for Toyota harrier Old model
I’m not sure I know that exact model my apologies
Is it the same idea for an A2?
Yes on the ones I have seen they are the same, the torque for the bolts on the A2 is 10nm stage 1 and 40nm stage 2
@@maxautouk Thank you!
😀
really interesting video max.Thanks, Tony uk
Thanks Tony, try my best to show all the information!
What size spline for the inner bolts?
For what it's worth I think it's worth getting an entire set, they aren't very expensive and a single socket often costs not much less.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-8pcs-1-2-Impact-Spline-Socket-Bit-Set-M5-M18-Bits-Cr-Mo-78mm-length-B1690/274277445430?hash=item3fdc35af36:g:PcsAAOSwGAheTPw3
My mechanic removed it from under the car without removing the 6 screws. I dont know how he did it.
On this car I don’t think that is possible since the inner section of the shaft stub is held into the gearbox with a single long bolt. Some polos have a different driveshaft that just pushes in and has no bolts
So you didn't need to take the track rod end off ..👍👍👍👍👍
Nope, it's not necessary but it might make it easier
@@maxautouk nice one got to change the boot today so your video was a help 👍👍👍👍👍
Hope you got on OK
Cheers 😎 my daughter's car needs one done
All the best with it! Hope the video helps
@@maxautouk 😎 been decades from I last did one 😬🤣🤣 Video was a godsend mate 😎
Let me know how you get on 😄
@@maxautouk Done and dusted 😉😎 cheers for the help 😎
Top man!
Why are the driveshafts on each side different thicknesses?
Good question, I'm not one hundred percent sure myself but my guess would be to ensure they are weight balanced to avoid drivetrain vibrations
@@maxautouk Ok thanks
😀