COMMON CAUSE OF ROUGH IDLE, LEAK IN AIR INTAKE FAULTS ON AUDI 2.0TFSI
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- EXPLAINING COMMON CAUSE OF ROUGH IDLE, LEAK IN AIR INTAKE FAULTS ON AUDI 2.0TFSI
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Thank you and thanks for watching
just carefully remove the pcv valve round cover and install new diaphragm guys problem solved
ok what if it stil idles after should replace whole assembly?
than a run a obd scanner and problem will show … usually high fuel pressure pump , crank sensor, throttle body needs cleaning, or intake manifold run flap sensor, if you dont have a obd scanner just goto autozone or orelieys ask them to run a scan on your car its free and go from there
I believe you just answered my question with my 2010 CC. I thought it was a bad PCV valve but I recently installed an Amazon PCV valve ( not the best but at least would see if it fixed the issue) it did not solved the issue. Every time I take off the hose to the intake manifold and I put my thumb over it. The car idled perfectly fine. It also is leaking oil form the bottom pretty badly.
What did you do to fix it?
@@anthonyh.1512 plugged both holes with pcv caps. Car runs perfect now.
@@ivanvega2821so just blocked the pipe you took off from intake and just simply put a cap on it and same with intake?
@@ivanvega2821
Did you still have to replace the rear main seal?
@@5272paul to fix the oil leak, yes. Replace main rear seal. But if you just need a car to drive. Plug valve and intake holes with caps.
Great explain great video helpful thanks.
I notice the pcv valve has the white body vs. the all black body. The white body is an updated pcv fix they did with an Audi level 1 fix. It is not the proper pcv for an the 2.0 2012 or prior to 2012 unless they have done the level 1 consumption updtae from audi. They replace the main seals with updated heavier seals and they flash the pcu with new codes to get it to idle properely. That engine should have an all black pcv unless the level 1 oil consumption update was made by audi.
But on the old Pcv the engine would run ok and no difference when oil cap removed, now it still runs okay but the engine idles rough with the cap removed which I believe is the correct response from the engine
@@joelucas6601 I am not a mechanic, I have an a4 2012 and have been forced to learn a lot about it. My understanding is excess vacuum is causing the rear mains to implode. I outlined what audi's oil consumption fix was, including the updated pcv and updated main seals. There are different pcv units that fit the same footprint but are indeed different and cause different internal pressures based on if it is a gen 1 or gen 2. Gen 1's are up to 2011 and 1/2 .They updated the seals and the cars pcu has to be reprogrammed to use the later pcv. Different pcv's are not exactly cross compatible without the updated program from Audi. On my a4 at idle when I pull the cap it has a very slight positive pressure and there is no notable difference in its idle. I have seen some videos that say that is normal and I have seen videos that say the same as you say. I don't know for sure, but if that is the vacuum at idle and it increases with rpm, it will suck the seals in according to Audi. That is exactly what they do. I would check that pcv for being the correct one. The best fix and work around for these engines will be a catch can, with or without a fresh properely matched factory pcv, some catch cans replace the pcv using a milled billet plumbed directly to the can. All the issues are tied to dirty valves, dirty air and dirty oil choking the engine out plugging the rings with carbon and consuming oil. Those that have installed catch cans have seen an immediate improvement. Its popular in the performance community, but works great on those engines for cleanliness and longevity. You have to drain the catch can, but it is less mantenance than adding oil, both in costs and aggravation. I have also found that a chemical flush helped restore my rings, improved cold startup and consumption. I just used sea foam, but berrymans and 502 are rated better, if you have aggressive oil consumption on a direct injection such as the 2.0T, it may help loosen the gunk out of the lower rings allowing the oil to better drain from the cylinder reducing consumption. Many have had great results with Berryman's piston soak reversing oil consumption. Another add on fix to keep this engine clean is methanol water injection, it is suprisingly simple to install and has great benefits of cleaning the valves and combustion chamber. These engines with a few add ons to keep them clean and proper oil changes are reliable engines.
Do you know the part number for the pre 2012 2.0t TFSI PCV system?@@TheAngeloMichael
That is the most DIY loom I’ve ever seen on top of this engine lmfaooo 😂
Hahah yeah I don’t think I’ve seen worse. Maybe if they used wire nuts lol
Hi. I have audi a6 2.0 tfsi CAED quattro. Idle is a bit rough sometimes, especcialy in colder weather. Also every time i come to a stop the revs drop to 650-700 for a splitsecond and then immediatly back up to 780-800. Car shakes for a second and it feels like its about to stall. I have changed the chain, injectors, coils, spark plugs, pvc valve. I have looked pretty much everywhere. Also checked for air leak by smoke generator. The fault i am getting is too lean at idle bank 1 and check engine light every so often. Any idea what it could be?
Do you see any oil leakage around the bellhousing? Sounds like a possible rear main seal issue
I have the same problem on a CPMA engine, so flex fuel with metal intake, still can't fix the issue, new in tank fuel pump, fuel pump module, coil packs, sparkplugs, pcv, im thinking about changing the purge valve, have you found your issue?
@@christenpro Issue seems to be that the factory idle is around 750. I found on some russian forums that people bump up the idle to 800 via VDS and issue is gone
My 1.8 TSI works perfectly fine, but consumes a bit of oil (within normal margin as per VW). Tried opening the oil cap for a sec while engine was runing, and as soon as I open the cap, engine stalls and almost dies. Is that a problem?
That is pretty normal, it basically creates a large vacuum leak
My 1.8 cdhb consumes a bit more than a 1lt a 1000km and it's the oil rings😢
Love the videos bro!! Keep them coming!! ✌🏽 yo what’s ur favorite car to work on? Audi’s?
Thanks man! Yeah I’d have to say Audis I think
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
What do you mean pulling vacuum away from your intake?
where is that crank case seal, i still have the air intake leak issue after replacing the cam shaft magnet, pcv valve, cam shaft position sensor, coils and spark plugs. i hear the air leak but i cant locate it. replacing the pcv valve did stop the rough idle but the code still there .thanks!
You don’t have the intake manifold flap arm pivot leaking do you, you can reach it with your finger with the car idling all the way down on the manifold next to wear it connects to the cylinder head on the drivers side, if you put your finger in that hole where the pivot is and it sucks it in you that’s what you have going, the rear main seal is between engine and transmission. Transmission out job
Hey man, got a passat b7 2.0 tsi that kinda has the same issue. Rough idle, sometimes even stalling and i noticed the same thing placing my thumb there smoothens the idle. However, my issue only comes when the outside temperature is above 10 degrees celsius. When it's winter, like sub zero degrees, everything runs perfectly. Any ideas?
Hi, my Audi A6 rough idle and rev counter can't go over 4000. Please assist
Audis and bmws never rev past 4K when in park. Try In neutral.
I jus bought a aftermarket 2012 audi a4 2.0T it gives me a low oil pressure warning whenever the car idles and won’t give me a read on my oil on the screen, it has oil everywhere on the bottom any ideas what turns those oil pressure lights on the most?
The mechanic changed the oil separator when I was having those issues on the same 2012 Audi A4.
Oil 'filter'/gauze in the cam bridge for the cam gears could be clogged, Audi say to remove the filter/gauze when doing timing chain replacement as it's a known fault
I have no leaks and I put it in a new pcv that was recommended by the dealer and the rough idle is still there. I’m thinking it’s because I have the clear top version will it fix it if I buy the all black top again?
I got a p2279 and p0507 a day after an oil chnage could it be an oil leak or the oil lid not being secure that causes these codes?
Did you figure out the misfire?
Thanks for the explanation! I got a similar problem. When purchasing the car (1.8 TSI), the seller told me to change the PCV. I switched it to the new one (both are not original ones). After this, idle RPM became really bad (when idle RPM decreases slowly after rising up to 1.5k). I switched it back to the old PCV, but it did not get back to normal state. I have an oil leak below the car - crankshaft rear oil seal, exactly as shown on the video. My question is: can the problem be because of this leak from below only? As I installed new PCV from Hengst (this manufacturer produces original OEM PCVs for VAG). Or shouls I also try installing original PCV?
Many times the high vacuum from the torn diaphragm in the oil separator damages the rear main seal by separating it off the plate and the high vacuum keeps the leakage to a minimum, when you replace the oil separator and correct the crankcase vacuum the oil leak seems to get bigger
@@EuropeanAutoRepair thank you again! Let me please rephrase. It means that I have opened a hole for extra air through the rear main seal by installing a new working separator (and correcting a vacuum) AND I cannot return back the normal RPM and idle (by re-installing the old separator) mainly for the reason that the rear main seal leak got too big now. Is it correct?
@vitaliisaltykov8214 that is probably the case
Hello, Thank you for your Video.
I would like to ask you about the part name of the pipe (( covered with silver anti hit ) at the second 00:16 in the video? the pipe is going from the 3rd coil to the Air filter. could you please help me and tell me what is the name of that pipe? i found it broken in my Audi A4 B8 2008 and I need to buy it online. also if you have any advice will be nice. Thank you!
Are you referring to this one? www.urotuning.com/products/breather-hose-audi-2-0t-a4-a5-a4-a5-a6-quattro-q5-allroad-06h103213j?currency=USD&variant=31496474198071&Google%20Shopping&stkn=334b6bf4d9c9&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwj9-zBhDyARIsAERjds3rVjQnlRtx-GHvv0dbWr8UtJkW2TU7zHukkYuRtP3-DR2x27BRtJUaAmOKEALw_wcB
Audi a6 c6 tfsi cod error P0171 The engine trembles at idle.. Thanks
Question,my 2013 Audi A4 2.0 there is no Check engine light or anything but if I put the obd scanner on it it give me code P2279 the car drives and idle perfect i recently changed the high pressure fuel pump also and the air filter,there is no warning light still P2279 air intake leak but no code,could that was cause by the bad high pressure fuel pump I recently changed,I use the tool to erase the code but it keeps coming back and says permanent
It’s more likely a intake air leak or something with the crankcase, check for any oil leaks and check for excessive crankcase vacuum from a failed oil separator
Hey all.
Have a 2012 GLI with CBFA 2.0TSI.
Car starts and dies immediately. With codes P1927 (Relay for Aux Coolant Pump. - Open Circuit) &
P0101 (Mass Air Flow Sensor - Implausible signal).
I found that disconnecting maf sensor allows car to start and drive but low power. After getting up to temperature or driving some distance if car is turned off it starts and dies immediately with MAF still disconnected.
Once temperature goes down after an hour it starts and drives again.
Timimg chain and tensioners done, new plugs and coils, tried 2 new OEM MAF sensors and nothing changed. Also did new OEM MAP sensor.
Any Ideas? Please help.
Check if you have a massive boost leak, I’ve seen the intercooler break right where it mounts to the radiator or also commonly the boost hose the runs right in front of the crank pulley will sometimes disconnect
Hi, my 2007 audi a4 b7 has very weak rev at idle. I stepped on the gas and the rpm just slowly goes up. Before it revs up nice and strong. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Any fault codes stored?
Thanks for your reply. This just happened after I cleaned the MAF with crc. And prior to this problem I got P0459 and P0299.
@@EuropeanAutoRepairI have the same with codes p2004 and p3004 multiple cylinder misfire. After doing some fuel injector service myself. Maybe I installed something wrong ?
Did you ever find the issue
I had a bad turbo; with a hole but I was about to hit 100mph and still hear my turbo. But I just can’t my turbo, and now I can’t event hit 40mph. It sounds like something is clogged it
Great videos ! Sadly i have another problem on my 2006 Audi A6 2,0 TFSI BPJ. I bought the car with the knowledge of it having a P0121 bad throttle body. (Ran god when i bought it) Then i was overtaking a car and the car started misfiring. I cheked the codes and there was 3 codes P0123, P0222 and P0304 cyl 4 misfire. So i swapped and calibrated the throttle body with a known good part. started it, checked the codes again and only the misfire was present. Im wondering if the throttle body switch freaking out could have caused the misfire ? I managed to move the misfire to cyl 1 by swapping coils. It just seams strange that the misifre aperad at the same time as the throttle body gave up ? Maybe i fouled a plug ?, Injectors and pcv is (supposed) to be new. Some light on the subject would be nice.
(Edit) i started the car with the suspected bad coil unplugged and it ran much worse. I know the evidence suggests a bad coil but maybe im just overthinking it to be another problem
Haha I do the same thing sometimes, put some new coils on that things clear faults and see what you got!
@@EuropeanAutoRepair Hey man, i just threw a known good coil in cyl 4 with no avail. Checked the plugs and the cylinder 1 plug was completley black. Think i found my smoking gun maybe.
I also tried unpluggin the evap from the oil separator to the intake and plugging it. It ran the same. Gonna by a set of plugs for it, and i hope it fixes my issue cause after buying this pos im running out of funds.
I also wasnt able to clear the codes today cause i didnt have accses to a obd reader so maybe that still plays a role in it. But theres no check engine light with the "Missfire" still going on so
@motokid1492 strange! I hope the spark plugs get you going again. Sometimes them coming out black like that isn’t a great sign but hopefully once you get it firing again it’ll be good for a while
@@EuropeanAutoRepair I just replaced the plugs with new ones. And it ran alot better now but it still misfired.
When i gave it under 25% throttle it ran fine with no misfires. But when i gave it some more throttle it started to missbehave. and on the test drive it was the same more or less. The enginge light also started flashing on me, but would not stay on.
Edit: it also had a EPC light but that went away during the test drive
Do you think a small leak on the dipstick tube gasket into the oil pan could cause rough idle? I've done the PCV assembly and the RMS. I'm pretty sure it's leaking oil there at second stage pressure. 2012 2.0T B8 with dealer-updated pistons. Been chasing EPC and idle issues for months 😮💨
It’s possible, they can be pretty sensitive, do you have a smoke test machine?
@EuropeanAutoRepair Unfortunately not. Just need to replace the tube, I guess, but wanted some confirmation before I throw even more money at it. I've been playing parts replacer for a while, but I'm definitely not a mechanic. 😂
@AngusMcDangus I understand man, if you know it’s leaking replace it anyway, hopefully it’ll resolve issue, keep me updated I’m curious
@@EuropeanAutoRepairWill do. I tried cleaning up the area and spreading some RTV around to test my theory but it's still leaking. I'll have the new tube next week.
@@EuropeanAutoRepair New metal dipstick tube is on and still running rough. As soon as it gets gas and revs over 1k it smooths out. Maybe a vacuum leak somewhere? Have seem some threads about checking fuel trims at idle vs driving. Need to dig in with my Ross Tech. Any other suggestions, or other values to check? Thanks again.
I freaked out because I could not find what was going on with my car, and I kept failing spark plugs and throwing my motor into EPC mode… I was so scared… Turns out that my turbo inlet hose clamp had come loose. I also cleaned my throttle body put APR coils new spark, plugs gap them to 28 because I have a stage one tune Just went around and checked for vacuum leaks and tightened all the screws that had rattled loose overtime
Now she purrs like a kitten again at 159,000 miles and 300 hp
Nice!! Good find
please help think i have same issue
I replaced my old pcv and now I’m
Getting a rough idle and sometimes it stutters when I put it in to drive and let go of the brake. Any solutions as to why? ( it never had a rough idle with the old pcv)
Have you noticed any oil leaks?
@@EuropeanAutoRepair just on the drain plug but that’s because I haven’t replaced my crusher washer yet.
MAF Sensor needs replacing
Greetings from Greece, thanks for the video. I have an Audi A4 B8 1.8 tsi caba engine with 4007 and 4219 fault codes. The pcv and air intake manifold and rear main seal are new original and there is no any oil leaks. Any idea?
Check your upper timing cover gasket, you might need to pull the belly pans off and clean it all real good to figure it out, my parents are heading to Greece next week to visit family, Nafpaktos area
@@EuropeanAutoRepairThanks for quick response, i had replaced this cover a year ago. Nafpaktos is a beautiful place to visit.
@@Giorgos_M don’t rule out a rear main seal installation issue either, the updated one requires the lip to be folded opposite way of the older style, I’ve seen people screw that up and just push it on like the old style
@@EuropeanAutoRepair mechanic said me that replace the rear main seal with the original one and he had use the tool for this job. Now it remains to check if he did it correctly. Thanks for your time. Have a nice day.
Can you tell me about the code P0171 check engine lit in the dashboard, what would be the problem? Thanks
what about newer 2.0 tfsi, like 2018 q5? I don't see any tubes like that going into the intake.
I would just check for high vacuum at oil filler cap with engine at idle
@@EuropeanAutoRepairHey I'm not OP but I have high vacuum from the oil fill cap as well from oil dipstick cap. What does that mean? How do I fix my vacuum leak?
It’s likely a issue with your oil separator
@@EuropeanAutoRepair I replaced it, but the issue remains. Occasional bad idle. Typically felt on colder days. In the past, the engine has stalled on occasion, but rare, even with a warm engine.
When my car is somewhat warmed up and I start it again the idle is ok for the most part but 30 seconds or so it like stutters hard and shakes for a split second then back to normal… no obvious issues no CLE or codes. Any ideas ?
Hmm, I’m not sure really, without any faults it becomes pretty tricky to figure stuff like that out
@@EuropeanAutoRepair maby I have a lot of carbon build up then?
@sweetandsour6521 usually carbon build up gives you a rough idle at cold start and smooths out once you get a little heat
@@EuropeanAutoRepair ya mine is kinda the opposite it’s not to bad but sometimes I get some funny shutters 🤷♀️
Have you fixed this issue?
I always hear you saying that you have problems with non oem parts with VW/Audi, is it always like that?
Are BMW or Mercedes more forgiving regarding that?
Their are a lot of reputable brands that are available in the aftermarket world it’s just sometimes difficult to differentiate with the market being so flooded with cheap junk, so I usually just say factory to keep things simple, I’d recommend just doing some quick research before purchasing anything from a brand you’ve never heard of
Hi all!
I have an Audi A6 2.0T
When I turn on the car on a cold start, the engine starts shaking roughly. Ok, so I have changed the coils, spark plugs, changed the evap hoses, replaced the camshaft brand new, cleaned and reprogrammed the throttle body and cleaned all of the valves and fuel injectors.
Then, I did a check and I got these codes although I have tested the battery and the generator and they are good.
Guys it’s so annoying!! I need some help please..
Btw, the rough is only on cold stary. When the engine goes warm, I feel nothing shaking.. please help me guys
So the only fault you are getting is a leak in air intake system fault?
How do I check? I mean I have changed the hoses of the oil bump, but I am still having the issue. Are there any other leaks in the intake system?
Do you have any oil around your bellhousing area? I’ve seen rear main seals cause this
@@EuropeanAutoRepair I was having oil all around the engine, but that was caused by the cut hoses I dunno what to call them lol but they are for oil which attached to the manifold. So, I replaced them and I’m not getting any oil anymore. So, it turned out that my mechanic said I should clean my MAF sensor. Does that have to do anything with a engine shaking at cold start?
Btw, how can I send you diagnosis I did for the car? They might help..
Why do Americans always quote the year before they say the car model?
Good question, I have no idea, just feels right
Because the generation of the engine is different a lot here.
I’m having this same problem no mechanic seems to help