Hey VOG, thank you for all of your videos. I just got over a nasty cold too. I hope you feel better in a jiffy! By the way, you 100% sold me on the Photon D2 as my first resin printer, and I've been using it as a complete newcomer to the hobby with over an 80% success rate over the last 2 weeks. Most, if not all, of the failures I've had are related mistakes attributed to the learning curve. Dialing in exposure times, proper supports, resin temperature etc. Thank you for the high quality work you put into reviewing and providing great content!
80% is excellent in your first 2 weeks. In truth I'm not sure anyone ever get 100% as different models bring different challenges, but you're learning that I'm sure. The D2 was an excellent choice. The quality is excellent 😁
I live about 20 miles from Mount Moriah Cemetery where Wild Bill and Calamity Jane are buried. I love the style of this ring! Definitely fits the feel of how Deadwood is now.
The burnout seems to be okay. The loss of some detail, and the sprues causing some imperfections is so so. Well i guess its when you really have to show an already printed and fixed one to someone, and the cast has to be perfect. Otherwise im not too sure if this is the first print resin i will buy. Still thinking about starting fluid 3D printing a lot. But i have to first finish my PID heat controller for kilns first before i will buy one. And that is only writing the code for Arduino.... The controller has to be fully working with ramping up temperature, holding it at certain heat levels, and ramping down again. For everything from clay, to steel heat treatment, to glass, to burn outs of molds, to melting bronze. I am looking into melting glass into molds. Thinking about producing a fluid 3D printed, burned out mold. Putting the glass in a pot with a hole above the cast, and heating the kiln up so the glass can sag into the mold. That should be able to produce some very high detail glass work. Maybe too for rings, who knows. I dont know how fluid it will be. "Stephen Pon, Lost Wax for GLASS , Kiln cast glass, sculpture Solis Dies" shows the deal done. Ive heard glass needs to be fluid, but not as hot that it will include the mold into the work. Im new to the topic of melting glass in a kiln. Thinking about getting books about it. Greetings, Jeff
They had a few bottles in stock when I checked just now, so I quickly nabbed one of them! Looking forward to trying it out, thank you for yet another informative and helpful video!
Gah, only if I had some decent access to Siraya Tech... VOG, as a miniature enthusiast, I'm trying to get a 3D printer. Your Photon D2 review set me on the right path, but Photon Mono 4K is trying to take me away. Would you say D2, or is either of them a good printer for someone who is completely new to the 3D printing world? While keeping a few hundred bucks in my wallet can't hurt, a DLP printer indeed sounds charming. Plus, get better soon, my good man!
The D2 is by far the better printer BUT if you've never tried 3D resin printing, I think the Mono 4K is a better option. Not everyone can get on with the smells, the mess, the cleaning, the clipping, etc. It's not as bad as I'm making it sound here, but I'd hate you to spend nearly $700 on something you didn't enjoy. The Mono 4K will wow you and get you started affordably. By the time you feel you've outgrown it, maybe there'll be a D3 available 😁 bit.ly/3CUokNZ ( ua-cam.com/video/dwZWu7Yggr0/v-deo.html )
my good man vog. set your bottom layers to 3 for the tests when using the flat calibration tests as 6 will effect the test. :) i still dont have the photon dlp printer yet. you would think they would send there moderator a unit lol. :) keep up the good work matey and hope you get better soon look after yourself :)
I've had very good results with the purple after properly curing.... but I agree with the purple being hard to see flaws. Can't wait to try the new blue
Hello, Vogman. I know you are using Any Cubic Wash and Cure Plus, which product did you use for curing in this video? I'm using Wash and Cure 2.0, but it doesn't harden even if I spin it for hours. Please give me some advice.
Any chance you can comment on this resin, using an MSLA printer. My understanding of ACs DLP printers is that you are unable to control the brightness of the the light source, which may be the setting tweak you are missing out on.
Im so happy to see you still using ZBrush. Awesome software, but its a bit sad that its no longer owned by "Pixel Farm" anymore and no longer has unlimited updates. That being said, who cares that last free version is so incredible, it would take years to learn everything its capable of. I have Loved your videos from close to the start of your channel, and its been amazing to see how you've flourished. I have not yet purchased or made a furness, but I can only dream that day will come. : )
What does putting the casting in a vacuum accomplish? Is there some vent holes going through the casting to suck the gold in? I didn't see anything like that but maybe I missed it. Is the plaster supposed to be porous enough to suck in the air? that seems unbeliveable. I'd really appriciate someone with that wisdom to share with me. I see this used in alot of casting videos, but no one explains 'how' the vacuum is supposed to help the casting?
Hi VOG. I’ve been quite influenced by your vids about making jewellery. 😇 I wanted to ask you about the cost of an average burnout of the resin casting from the plaster? The massive price increases in electricity does worry me somewhat but does this process have significant costs? I’d love to hear your thoughts on this as I’m reluctant at the moment to purchase a kiln, it’s somewhat made me put the brakes on perusing it further.☹️👌
@@vogman I thought so. Then I will give you potentially helpful tip - I am buying soldering rods without flux, around £15 per kilo when buying 3-5 kilos. Especially brass is amazing, but you need to buy small portion first to test as some are not liquid enough. The only issue is that you cut them, I buy 1,5mm and 2mm rods, mostly from ebay. But wanted to find grain instead. I am guessing will continue to use rods then... thank you for reply!
Good question. The clue is is the chemical make up H2O. There's Oxygen in water, so any that's shed through curing can be re-absorbed through water. This doesn't matter with ordinary resins, but with castable resins you need to get it cured perfectly. Vegetable Glycerine doesn't contain oxygen, allowing the curing process to remove that already trapped in the print 😁
Hi mate appreciate you for what are you doing I have one question, we do gold and sliver printing the problem is when we cast it the weight comes too much i want to ask how much wax should be in resin for gold and silver Wax constant Gold 25% silver 30% kindly looking forward
I calculate by volume. If you have the STL, any slicer will tell you how many ml of resin are used to print it. Apply this to the specific gravity of your metal, and you're there. For example, this ring used 1.96ml of resin (volume), which worked out at 17.2g of Ancient Bronze, or 20.3g of Sterling Silver, or 30.2g of yellow 18K gold 😁 If you consistently use the same resin, you could then apply this technique to the weight of the print.
@@vogman 21k gold the problem is that when I order the resin they ask me how much content do I need in resin wax percentage what u want know that how much percentage of wax content will work the ratio I'm looking for is 1gram resin = gold 14grm silver 1 gram = to 10gram
thanks for the vid :) according to Siraya "do not submerge the parts in alcohol for more than 30 seconds" also Siraya: "We recommend putting print in glycerine to speed up curing without getting water on the print." what do you think of this?
If you're reading the Amazon instructions, remember there's two resins listed on the same page, Cast and True Blue. I think just about every resin says don't submerge in alcohol, simply because details can be lost 😁
Hi Vog, just purchased a Photon D2 after watching your reviews so thankyou for your videos and knowledge. I noticed that you are using the Lychee slicer, but I thought it was not supported on the D2 at the moment. are the printer spec files the same as the photon ultra, as this one seems supported. Thanks for your videos again, Mark
Thanks Mark. Right now I'm just preparing my prints using Lychee, exporting this as an STL and then slicing with Anycubic Workshop. Soon Lychee will have an update and this won't be necessary anymore 😁 I've just posted a video about my D2 tray ua-cam.com/video/vz4Z9E8wpRw/v-deo.html - don't be put off as mine could be a one off. But keep an eye on your tray.
Hello, vogman. I'm your subscriber. I'm watching all the videos and introducing them around. What is the best thing about jewelry casting resins when using Anycubic d2 model regardless of price? Can you tell me the setting price? Thank you.
Sorry if this has been asked already, what 3d modelling software was you using to make the ring? I have been trying to get to grips with blender, but it is driving me nuts haha
This is awesome and made me want to tk look into casting. I havent checked your channel out for further casting vids, but I will. But in the meantime, it would be awesome if you had tutorials on everything. If you already do, thank you!
Silly question - but what software where you using to bend the cards over your ring blank like that? I stupidly lost my master files and need to bend a 3d model accross a ring but don't want to re model it.
the wax content is interesting, and worth consideration for some models. price was ok on amazon. My biggest complaint with purple is the smell during burnout. Was the blue less vile? nice video as allways!
Hmmm... I have a few problems answering that Perry. Firstly, I've had a cold - so no sense of smell. Next, resin smells tend not to bother me. Lastly, I've got pretty good air extraction. So unfortunately smell is the one thing I can advise on. Sorry. 🙂
No worries. I have my burnout in a shed but it is not ventilated and it is brutal with the purple. I need to put in a air extraction hood to mitigate the issue.
@@vogman Really has, moved from a wanhao i3, to a creality cr10 mini, to a heavily modified cr10mini, to a anycubic photon to a anycubic mono x, next stop a tabletop furnace and oven/kiln
Are you a Poker or Wild West fan Tony? This is one of my favourite tales 😁 The link to my Dead Man's Hand ring is available in the description, but for you buddy it's here... ▶ etsy.me/3DUnlha You asked about a ring from me a few weeks ago. With this STL you can approach Riogrande.com and they'll cast it in silver, gold, or whatever you like. Have a look at this video and you'll see what I mean. ua-cam.com/video/UTmhL8rl5JQ/v-deo.html Just tell them your ring size and they'll adjust the STL file to fit your needs. Top quality work and great prices. If you need ANY help, let me know.
@@vogman No. I've only ever gambled once on a horse. Peter Scudamore was a jokey In the race. I told my mates to put all the cash we had (4 of us) on him! Unfortunately my friends knew more about horse racing than me. We lost the money because Peter Scudamore came 1st Thank you so much for taking the time to set up and sell your stl files. I have metallic resin. I will pretend I made it lol 😜
I don't gamble either. I've played a little 5 card stud purely for pleasure and never for money. I reason that I always lose anyway, so by not gambling I can keep the pleasure and not the pain. As for resin prints, that sounds excellent. In honesty every design I come up with gets printed and worn for a day, even though I'm not a jewellery wearer. But by wearing it, I can tell if it's comfortable or whether it needs more work. I also know people that print with normal resins and spray with metallic finishes. They get an endless supply of cheap jewellery and never have to worry about damage or loss. 😁😁😁
No Deep Purple jokes? Shame on you VOG. I share your issues with seeing flaws on the Sirayatech cast, I don't think it's so much that its purple, but dark transparent purple. I wish you luck resolving issues with this new Blue as it looks great, I'm sure to be trying it myself in the not so distant future. Have you ever tried polishing out wax imperfections with petrol/lighter fluid? I wonder if it works on this stuff.
It's the cold. Blame my cold. Honestly, Deep Purple jokes did enter my mind, but I never followed through. And you're right, opaque is better. Nice idea with the lighter fluid. I'm not sure there's enough wax for that - but who knows. Still, it's better to repair flaws you can see than cast something covered in hidden flaws 😁
If you hollow out the print completely, it could collapse whilst printing. So an in-fill is creating, supporting walls if you like. I tend to stick with walls around 2mm thick and 30% infill. I hope this helps.
I have noticed damage on SOME pieces, but it's rare. The pins shouldn't really be heavy enough to inflict damage but I have noticed very small pitting - sometimes. I wish it was a consistent problem as I could work out what the issue is, but in isn't. For instance... did I burnish too much or too little? Too many pins? Too few? etc
![Liqcreate Wax Castable 3D Printer Resin [HONEST REVIEW]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Qq79uaNOI1E/mqdefault.jpg)
![Liqcreate Wax Castable 3D Printer Resin [HONEST REVIEW]](/img/tr.png)
![Anycubic Photon D2 DLP 3d resin printer [HONEST REVIEW]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q-OoGQfG2wY/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow, that’s dedication, all the printing time plus video production AND fantastic casting. Thanks a lot for you hard work.
Yes mate. I have to stay busy. If I don't my wife finds things for me to do 😁
@@vogman ahaha story of my life. I hate folding laundry.
Hey VOG, thank you for all of your videos. I just got over a nasty cold too. I hope you feel better in a jiffy!
By the way, you 100% sold me on the Photon D2 as my first resin printer, and I've been using it as a complete newcomer to the hobby with over an 80% success rate over the last 2 weeks. Most, if not all, of the failures I've had are related mistakes attributed to the learning curve. Dialing in exposure times, proper supports, resin temperature etc. Thank you for the high quality work you put into reviewing and providing great content!
80% is excellent in your first 2 weeks. In truth I'm not sure anyone ever get 100% as different models bring different challenges, but you're learning that I'm sure. The D2 was an excellent choice. The quality is excellent 😁
I live about 20 miles from Mount Moriah Cemetery where Wild Bill and Calamity Jane are buried. I love the style of this ring! Definitely fits the feel of how Deadwood is now.
Many thanks 😁
The burnout seems to be okay.
The loss of some detail, and the sprues causing some imperfections is so so.
Well i guess its when you really have to show an already printed and fixed one to someone, and the cast has to be perfect. Otherwise im not too sure if this is the first print resin i will buy.
Still thinking about starting fluid 3D printing a lot. But i have to first finish my PID heat controller for kilns first before i will buy one. And that is only writing the code for Arduino.... The controller has to be fully working with ramping up temperature, holding it at certain heat levels, and ramping down again. For everything from clay, to steel heat treatment, to glass, to burn outs of molds, to melting bronze.
I am looking into melting glass into molds. Thinking about producing a fluid 3D printed, burned out mold. Putting the glass in a pot with a hole above the cast, and heating the kiln up so the glass can sag into the mold. That should be able to produce some very high detail glass work. Maybe too for rings, who knows. I dont know how fluid it will be. "Stephen Pon, Lost Wax for GLASS , Kiln cast glass, sculpture Solis Dies" shows the deal done.
Ive heard glass needs to be fluid, but not as hot that it will include the mold into the work. Im new to the topic of melting glass in a kiln. Thinking about getting books about it.
Greetings,
Jeff
Sorry to hear you were unwell. I love that ring. "I want that!"
Thanks Tony. I have to admit, the idea has been in my mind for months... but having that cold worked wonders. It just came to life 😁
They had a few bottles in stock when I checked just now, so I quickly nabbed one of them! Looking forward to trying it out, thank you for yet another informative and helpful video!
Luck must be on your side 😁
Hope you enjoy them.
Great video! Every time I watch a casting video of yours I get the urge to build a home foundry.
It's an expensive hobby, but it's fun.
Gah, only if I had some decent access to Siraya Tech...
VOG, as a miniature enthusiast, I'm trying to get a 3D printer.
Your Photon D2 review set me on the right path,
but Photon Mono 4K is trying to take me away.
Would you say D2, or is either of them a good printer for someone who is completely new to the 3D printing world?
While keeping a few hundred bucks in my wallet can't hurt, a DLP printer indeed sounds charming.
Plus, get better soon, my good man!
The D2 is by far the better printer BUT if you've never tried 3D resin printing, I think the Mono 4K is a better option. Not everyone can get on with the smells, the mess, the cleaning, the clipping, etc. It's not as bad as I'm making it sound here, but I'd hate you to spend nearly $700 on something you didn't enjoy.
The Mono 4K will wow you and get you started affordably. By the time you feel you've outgrown it, maybe there'll be a D3 available 😁
bit.ly/3CUokNZ ( ua-cam.com/video/dwZWu7Yggr0/v-deo.html )
my good man vog. set your bottom layers to 3 for the tests when using the flat calibration tests as 6 will effect the test. :) i still dont have the photon dlp printer yet. you would think they would send there moderator a unit lol. :) keep up the good work matey and hope you get better soon look after yourself :)
Nice one Geoff! Hopefully Siraya Tech will sort out and publish the settings for the True Blue soon.
I'll hopefully sort it as soon as my head cold clears 😁
I've had very good results with the purple after properly curing.... but I agree with the purple being hard to see flaws. Can't wait to try the new blue
It's easy on the eye and casts great. You'll find it harder to dial in than the purple, but if you're an experienced printer, you'll manage 😁
Interesting results... I hope they reach out to give you the appropriate settings since this one looks a bit tricky to dial in.
I'm sure I'll dial it in better when my head clears a little 😁
Amazed by the design!
How do I set up Chitubox?I'm using Anycubic Mono X.😊
Thanks alot for your great videos! im wondering what kind of furnage you use and can it melt cast iron ?
Hello, Vogman. I know you are using Any Cubic Wash and Cure Plus, which product did you use for curing in this video? I'm using Wash and Cure 2.0, but it doesn't harden even if I spin it for hours. Please give me some advice.
Any chance you can comment on this resin,
using an MSLA printer. My understanding of ACs DLP printers is that you are unable to control the brightness of the the light source, which may be the setting tweak you are missing out on.
Im so happy to see you still using ZBrush. Awesome software, but its a bit sad that its no longer owned by "Pixel Farm" anymore and no longer has unlimited updates.
That being said, who cares that last free version is so incredible, it would take years to learn everything its capable of.
I have Loved your videos from close to the start of your channel, and its been amazing to see how you've flourished.
I have not yet purchased or made a furness, but I can only dream that day will come.
: )
Once again great stuff. Hope you feel better now
Thank you!
What does putting the casting in a vacuum accomplish? Is there some vent holes going through the casting to suck the gold in? I didn't see anything like that but maybe I missed it. Is the plaster supposed to be porous enough to suck in the air? that seems unbeliveable. I'd really appriciate someone with that wisdom to share with me. I see this used in alot of casting videos, but no one explains 'how' the vacuum is supposed to help the casting?
Get well soon Geoff all the best mate
Hi VOG. I’ve been quite influenced by your vids about making jewellery. 😇
I wanted to ask you about the cost of an average burnout of the resin casting from the plaster?
The massive price increases in electricity does worry me somewhat but does this process have significant costs?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on this as I’m reluctant at the moment to purchase a kiln, it’s somewhat made me put the brakes on perusing it further.☹️👌
hello. Love the video. Noob question coming. What was the 3d modelling program VOG used to model the ring? thanks :)
Hello. Which casting resin would you recommend for very small designs on jewelry?
How do you prevent porosity in your castings, mine always seem to have bubble pockets
Where do you buy casting grain? Bronze and brass,in UK. There are only expensive like £80-100 for kilo on the market.
The UK is hopeless. I buy from Riogrande.com and pay the shipping. I bought in bulk to make postal cost worthwhile.
@@vogman I thought so. Then I will give you potentially helpful tip - I am buying soldering rods without flux, around £15 per kilo when buying 3-5 kilos. Especially brass is amazing, but you need to buy small portion first to test as some are not liquid enough. The only issue is that you cut them, I buy 1,5mm and 2mm rods, mostly from ebay. But wanted to find grain instead. I am guessing will continue to use rods then... thank you for reply!
What software are you using in the scene with the ring and cards? bending the cards around the ring?
Seconded! I would live to know as well!
That's ZBrush. He's using one of the deformers in the gizmo (bend or arc?) there.
Dang, that is one lovely ring design.
Thanks Tony. I've never seen a ring about the Dead Man's Hand, but I have a feeling we'll see them popping up all over the place now 😁
Hello VOG. Great vid again. You mentioned curing in vegetable glycerin at the beginning of the video. Why not water?
Good question. The clue is is the chemical make up H2O.
There's Oxygen in water, so any that's shed through curing can be re-absorbed through water. This doesn't matter with ordinary resins, but with castable resins you need to get it cured perfectly.
Vegetable Glycerine doesn't contain oxygen, allowing the curing process to remove that already trapped in the print 😁
Thanks for clearing that up for me. Keep up posting great vids
If it’s a castable resin who cares what color it is. At the end of the day it’s going bye-bye. Love your contact.
Hi mate appreciate you for what are you doing I have one question, we do gold and sliver printing the problem is when we cast it the weight comes too much i want to ask how much wax should be in resin for gold and silver
Wax constant Gold 25% silver 30% kindly looking forward
I calculate by volume. If you have the STL, any slicer will tell you how many ml of resin are used to print it. Apply this to the specific gravity of your metal, and you're there.
For example, this ring used 1.96ml of resin (volume), which worked out at 17.2g of Ancient Bronze, or 20.3g of Sterling Silver, or 30.2g of yellow 18K gold 😁
If you consistently use the same resin, you could then apply this technique to the weight of the print.
@@vogman 21k gold the problem is that when I order the resin they ask me how much content do I need in resin wax percentage what u want know that how much percentage of wax content will work the ratio I'm looking for is 1gram resin = gold 14grm silver 1 gram = to 10gram
thanks for the vid :) according to Siraya "do not submerge the parts in alcohol for more than 30 seconds" also Siraya: "We recommend putting print in glycerine to speed up curing without getting water on the print." what do you think of this?
If you're reading the Amazon instructions, remember there's two resins listed on the same page, Cast and True Blue.
I think just about every resin says don't submerge in alcohol, simply because details can be lost 😁
@@vogman lol it’s a good thing that they don’t say “don’t use”
@@vogman so no glycerin for uv the true blue
Hi Vog, just purchased a Photon D2 after watching your reviews so thankyou for your videos and knowledge. I noticed that you are using the Lychee slicer, but I thought it was not supported on the D2 at the moment. are the printer spec files the same as the photon ultra, as this one seems supported. Thanks for your videos again, Mark
Thanks Mark. Right now I'm just preparing my prints using Lychee, exporting this as an STL and then slicing with Anycubic Workshop. Soon Lychee will have an update and this won't be necessary anymore 😁
I've just posted a video about my D2 tray ua-cam.com/video/vz4Z9E8wpRw/v-deo.html - don't be put off as mine could be a one off. But keep an eye on your tray.
Hello, vogman. I'm your subscriber. I'm watching all the videos and introducing them around. What is the best thing about jewelry casting resins when using Anycubic d2 model regardless of price? Can you tell me the setting price? Thank you.
Sorry if this has been asked already, what 3d modelling software was you using to make the ring? I have been trying to get to grips with blender, but it is driving me nuts haha
This is awesome and made me want to tk look into casting. I havent checked your channel out for further casting vids, but I will. But in the meantime, it would be awesome if you had tutorials on everything. If you already do, thank you!
Well, this channel is my journey, so hopefully you'll find everything you need to know right here 😁
nice! well done VOG!
Do you think we will see a water washable casting resin any time in the future???
So Vog what resin would you say has the best burnout?
Great design. You've gotten quite good with Zbrush.
Thank you! Cheers!
Silly question - but what software where you using to bend the cards over your ring blank like that? I stupidly lost my master files and need to bend a 3d model accross a ring but don't want to re model it.
That was ZBrush 😁
the wax content is interesting, and worth consideration for some models. price was ok on amazon. My biggest complaint with purple is the smell during burnout. Was the blue less vile?
nice video as allways!
Hmmm... I have a few problems answering that Perry. Firstly, I've had a cold - so no sense of smell. Next, resin smells tend not to bother me. Lastly, I've got pretty good air extraction.
So unfortunately smell is the one thing I can advise on. Sorry. 🙂
No worries. I have my burnout in a shed but it is not ventilated and it is brutal with the purple. I need to put in a air extraction hood to mitigate the issue.
grande VOG!
What investment did u use?
Nice Ring, one of my favorite hands in poker.
I specialise in Losing hands 😁
Get well soon 😊
Thanks Paul.
3D printing works so well in other hobbies, i need to get into casting metal ha
It's an amazing hobby. 3D printing has come so far so fast 😁
@@vogman Really has, moved from a wanhao i3, to a creality cr10 mini, to a heavily modified cr10mini, to a anycubic photon to a anycubic mono x, next stop a tabletop furnace and oven/kiln
Have you tried the cones of calibration?
Never heard of it. Sounds like an adventure game 😁😁😁😁😁😁
Was the grey prototype better in any respects?
It printed easier, that's for sure 😁
Did you ever find the best settings for this resin with the Photon D2 DLP?
Not yet, no. But I plan on revisiting it soon 😁
@@vogman That would be awesome. Would love to see your findings!
Hi, could you please tell me which brand of investment you use with siraya tech resin? Love your videos btw 😍
Honestly, any good powder should work. But have a look here vegoilguy.co.uk/equipment.php 😁
what software where u sing to do the ring and cards
I initially made the cards using Fusion 360 I think, but after that I moved into ZBrush to add a bit of life to the design 😁
@@vogman thanks for that
What 3d program are you using to edit the ring at 04:00?
Zbrush
Me again Mr Vog. Do you have a link for that stl file please mate?
Are you a Poker or Wild West fan Tony? This is one of my favourite tales 😁
The link to my Dead Man's Hand ring is available in the description, but for you buddy it's here...
▶ etsy.me/3DUnlha
You asked about a ring from me a few weeks ago. With this STL you can approach Riogrande.com and they'll cast it in silver, gold, or whatever you like. Have a look at this video and you'll see what I mean. ua-cam.com/video/UTmhL8rl5JQ/v-deo.html
Just tell them your ring size and they'll adjust the STL file to fit your needs. Top quality work and great prices.
If you need ANY help, let me know.
@@vogman No. I've only ever gambled once on a horse. Peter Scudamore was a jokey In the race. I told
my mates to put all the cash we had (4 of us) on him!
Unfortunately my friends knew more about horse racing than me.
We lost the money because Peter Scudamore came 1st
Thank you so much for taking the time to set up and sell your stl files.
I have metallic resin. I will pretend I made it lol 😜
I don't gamble either. I've played a little 5 card stud purely for pleasure and never for money. I reason that I always lose anyway, so by not gambling I can keep the pleasure and not the pain.
As for resin prints, that sounds excellent. In honesty every design I come up with gets printed and worn for a day, even though I'm not a jewellery wearer. But by wearing it, I can tell if it's comfortable or whether it needs more work.
I also know people that print with normal resins and spray with metallic finishes. They get an endless supply of cheap jewellery and never have to worry about damage or loss. 😁😁😁
What software are you using for designs?
Fusion 360 for the basic cards, then ZBrush for all the shaping and sculpting 😁
amazing work !
Thanks a lot! 😁
Doing an updated vid for this variant soon dude? :)
Will be 😁
@@vogman awesome, looking forward to it 😍😊😎
Please make a video on rose go3d printer . (Rose go 3d vs anycubic photon d2) 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
It's that an FDM printer?
@@vogman yes And 0.02mm
have you tried anycubic castable resin?
No Deep Purple jokes? Shame on you VOG. I share your issues with seeing flaws on the Sirayatech cast, I don't think it's so much that its purple, but dark transparent purple. I wish you luck resolving issues with this new Blue as it looks great, I'm sure to be trying it myself in the not so distant future. Have you ever tried polishing out wax imperfections with petrol/lighter fluid? I wonder if it works on this stuff.
It's the cold. Blame my cold. Honestly, Deep Purple jokes did enter my mind, but I never followed through.
And you're right, opaque is better.
Nice idea with the lighter fluid. I'm not sure there's enough wax for that - but who knows. Still, it's better to repair flaws you can see than cast something covered in hidden flaws 😁
@@vogman Amen, I'd rather be able to see something so I can fix it, or worse case scenario, reprint.
yess
😁😁😁
sup VOG whats your thought on lychee and there hollowing system?
Well, I use Lychee when I hollow, so I guess I'm okay with it. Are you having some problems?
@@vogman im new to 3D printing been learning from you, so im using lychee but not understanding the infill part or the hollow 3D feature
If you hollow out the print completely, it could collapse whilst printing. So an in-fill is creating, supporting walls if you like. I tend to stick with walls around 2mm thick and 30% infill. I hope this helps.
@@vogman it does thanks
Nice stuff
Thanks for watching
What is "castable" resin?
It's resin which, once printed, can be burned away to leave a void within casting plaster. This void is then filled with liquid metal 😁
Cool
Thanks 😁
Ooh
Thanks 😁
@@vogman Does using the magnetic pin tumbler ruin your details, surface finish on a casting?
I have noticed damage on SOME pieces, but it's rare. The pins shouldn't really be heavy enough to inflict damage but I have noticed very small pitting - sometimes. I wish it was a consistent problem as I could work out what the issue is, but in isn't. For instance... did I burnish too much or too little? Too many pins? Too few? etc
@@vogman Perfect, thanks! Pin tumblers are the most attractive way of finishing in my opinion
All sold out already 😢 😢
I don't think they had many. Hopefully they'll restock soon 😁
I think youre Thunderfoot ....
Hope covid wasn't too bad
Ooh
Dent? Arthur Dent?
Sorry... couldn't resist. I'm a big Douglas Adams fan 😁😁😁
@@vogman you are not alone 👍