@@vzmax I needed to hear that. Thanks. I’m trying to decide which saw is right for me. Everyone around me says Stihl…… it’s got to be a Stihl. My buddy is a dealer even. But my heart says 550xp!!! The 550 seems like a beast.
@@halfdollar86 Pro fellers either choose Stihl or Husqvarna, nothing else. But I much prefer Husqvarna, their chainsaws are nicer and have a better finish (caps, handle,...). Yes, this is an important point for me and I take care of my tools. Using a nice saw that you trust is much more pleasant.
The formula for horsepower is (torque x rpm)/5252. So since the saws RPM range doesn't change much, mathematically an increase in torque causes a commensurate increase in HP at a given RPM.
Love your channel. Would be curious to see a 545 before and after with 550 side plates. Then ported with both side plates. Then compared to these results! Keep up the good work.
I have a 550xp mk2 I built for climbing and I will not chunk a stick without it now. The mods are, 3/8 sprocket- 24 inch light bar w a square ground skip tooth x cut chain- 3 point wcs dogs and chain catch- a slightly modified 562 3/4 wrap handle- muffler mod and timing advance. I highly recommend the 562 3/4 wrap and 3 point wcs dogs, it keeps you from walking around the tree or back baring and the dogs are a must bc the stock dogs are garbage.
Big number for a stock 50cc saw not far off the 562 stock pretty impressive donny walker build a 550 mk2 for me it rips.love your videos thanks for sharing
Have a 550 and 572 on order at Walkers. Donny did up a 565 for me last year. It’s an animal running a 28. Walker’s does fantastic work and are great to deal with. Win-Win
I LOVED this. thank you I own a 545 mark 2, which "they say" is mildly destuned"? from the 550 sure are a badass stock. Love to see ya get a 545 to confirm the rumors on similar power. thanks Joe!!!
I just LOVE Husqvarna lungs! I can’t believe this thing is only 50cc! I thought it was 55. I love a 359 but they’re not common or needed much where I’m at (it’s practically all soft wood and under 120’ pine where I am plus most tree utility/,companies I’ve seen use Stihl) but this thing is a great comparison to one if you’re like me and can’t put your hands on a lovely 359. Wow.. I can’t believe this thing is only 50cc… my 261 is great but it doesn’t rip like when I fired the old bosses shelved 550 up. My 261 must need rings.. this or a triple nickle.. I guess I’m gonna have to start showing some leg to get one of these…
What’s the difference in the 550xp port and the 545? I had you port my 545 and it came out to be 5.30 hp and I see that your550xp ported came out to be 5.40 hp. What’s the difference? Thanks
I want to say the coil/ignition curve is the big difference. I didn't compare part numbers but tha t seems to be 1 of the ways to "tame" the 545 along with the non full circle crank.
The 550 has crank stuffers,, slightly larger transfer, and slightly different ignition tuning for "rev boost", but all that is really only marginally useful, that is, if you can move along that quickly surefooted in the field. The 550 runs hot and heat kills saws. It's important a saw run reliably well in many environments and during hot weather or on the coldest days, dirty, or when it stays hot for hours of cutting. I opted for the 545 for that reason, good balance of factors and good factory autotuning out of the box. I expect to have a strong saw for years in the wood and plenty fast and nimble for limbing. And I don't have as much $ in it as my factory 70 cc bracket saw. The factory does a good job. My personal choice is if I want more saw, then I buy a bigger factory saw.
@@duck-n-cover477 I have a lot of saws and my mark 2 550 is definitely one of my favorites. But if a saw is ported right it is more fun to use and doesn't run as hot. It's just more efficient. The power to weight ratio becomes a big factor also. Where a factory saw is lacking in my opinion is caused mostly by EPA regularly people having to stick their 2 cents in lol. I wasn't a believer in ported saws until I started having pro porters do saws for me. Now there is no way I'd ever go back. Stock saws are turds compared to the same saw in a well ported version. Only down side I can see is warranty work. The fun factor and pure enjoyment from running ported saws is worth it tho for about every single person I know that messes with saws
I have a completely factory husqy 450 rancher, aside from piping it, is there and fairly simple mods not straying too far from stock to it. It does ok cant complain with it but I cant leave well enough alone, it's my only stock saw and I actually use it probably more than my big boys, never messed with stratified saw, all mine are old but the rancher
You could do a muffler mod and advance the timing. You could also sell it and buy a 353 husky, same specs(that's why the 450 is my favorite stock plastic cased saw), then when you want to add more power you could put a 346 piston and cylinder kit on it, after that you could have it ported 😃
@@brettblack7049 yeah I know I build myself, just haven't screwed around with that saw in particular, dont really want to port it, if I did I'd do it myself, probably build another ironhorse pipe out of aluminum and stick it on there
@@brettblack7049 it was give to me broken, I fix it I can have it, said good enough, no spark, picked up a coil from TC and shes good to go, it's a good little saw, quiet, light
@@brettblack7049 oh and the wife uses it when she uses one so I really dont want to port it, not aggressively anyway shes a little lady, probably just pipe it giveva little intake duration and call it good, cant have the wife lopping a arm off
She isnt about the 372 bb ported, cant start it to begin with or really carry it it would be murder to give her one of my big boys, 372bb ported piped, 390 same, 046 same. I cant stress mild enough with this lil rig just wouldnt mind stretching the power band out a little and flattening the curve. I got 40 bucks in it and it's like new
@@dynojoemods2764 thankyou.. I'll keep my eye out on your website and see about another 550 or 562. My 550 is great with just the muffler mod but a ported 550 or 562 I think would be the best saw a man could have and it's definitely what I want
I have a 555 autotune. They are a strong light saw. Use mine for firewood, a tank will almost fill up a pickup box. Took out the spark arresting screen from muffler. no other mods. run a 24” bar.
Nice gains on an already hot saw! Have you ever measured exhaust gas temps (EGT’s) on your builds? It’d be interesting to see if the tighter squish/quench and a tune to match improves upon factory settings. If so, that would indicate your work builds could survive better on 87 than stock.
I think that sometimes the dyno does not give an exact absolute number for HP. Having that saud what i'm looking for is the amount of torque and HP gained relatively to the original saw, which is accurate.
echo 4910/ 501s get 5.5 pretty easily ported. Brisco has one that put out 6hp. id say the echo would be more torquey though as its non strato. though here in uk we have a lot of stock mkIIs blowing up. obviously they run on the lean side so I'm assuming a dull chain and you can pop them pretty easy is my guess🤷♂️
@@Dolmar-Rick I agree dull chain and heat transfer to the hideous nylon caged bearings kills these saws most of the time. We have had 3 562 have bearing failure within weeks couple within days out of the box. That’s not even giving to a greenhorn that’s experienced men working them. I’m not a fan of the proprietary bearings
@@jennpage3976 I agree nylon caged bearings is blows my mind. Not to mention the price. The 550markII uses the same bearing on both sides so your looking at $70-$100 just to replace them
I have had some of the 562 come in with a large range in power output discrepancies. Some a bit higher and others a bit lower. The 550s are just stout little saws too.
How do you control even and consistent braking force for the dyno? I know on most car/motor dynos one can manipulate it to get different numbers. I'm wondering if there is something out there that you could use on the dyno that is controlled by rpms, more rpms = increasing drag. Like a beefy servo at the opposite side of the bar... Don't mind me, it's early Monday and my coffee hasn't kicked in yet.
I try to keep all the runs the same about of time. 8-10 seconds works out very well, and is very repeatable. I watch the readings and try and pull the rpm down smooth and steady for the full 10 seconds. A servo would be nice but "tuning" it for all the different sizes would be a nightmare. Takes a whole lot more valve to slow a 880 vs a 2511 etc. Hope that makes sense.
@@dynojoemods2764 gotcha... I was just thinking utilizing electrical current/potentiometer and a servo for braking force... something that can instantaneously adjust to the load applied... whether it's instant (torque) or prolonged (hp). 🤔 then again... I'm just rattling off from the top and not thinking things through... the more I sit and purge this cabbage the more I realize I don't like electronics and it would be a nightmare to get all of that in running order and dialed in. 🤣
@@RichFife I do have an auto load valve with my other dyno setup. But after talking with a few other operators they did not work well with 2 stroke powerband. But work great for 4 stroke pulls
What do you mean "opened up below the factory". My understanding is that modifing the mufflers to the point of gutting out the baffels (but opening up the exhaust to the atmosphere), on the 562/550 series has zero effect on power. This is counterintuitive, but would like to see your analysis on this topic!
Can't remember but I believe it was associated with a cookie times test on a 562 on UA-cam. The had zero reduction in times by completely gutting the muffler after he had done all the other mods to the saw. I know that the 592's muffler is a box without baffels and all guys are doing is opening up the exhaust port to the atmosphere. I recently had a 562 ported by a well known and respected member of the saw community and the muffler came back stock - except the exhaust to the atmosphere was opened up a bit. It seems to me that opening up the baffels inside the muffler would help. Only one way to confirm Dyno Joe!
I'm really curious about the 5 series for the lack of a better explanation(they end with a five) the 545,555 and 565. They're the only saws that the second number isn't what cc the engine is and I hear that the 545 and 550 are so close you really can't tell them apart while running them. The 545 is a xtorq I believe and the same engine as the 550, so I want to know how they stack up against their brothers and what's the real difference? They are supposed to be work saws also. Thanks if you can clear that up I think a lot of guys would like to see that video/answer.
Ive put my 550 mkii through the absolute gauntlet in all weather conditions and a variety of wood types and sizes. With proper maintenance its held up very well starts easy. Glad I payed a bit more over the ranch models.
@@dynojoemods2764 interesting. I run the same. Do you have any videos talking about different oil ratios and why? I looked quick last night didn’t see any.
Have you tried a new socket with breaker bar to limit the flex? Grind the head off the bolt and remove the muffler, then use heat and knipex or vise grips on the remaining screw
I’ve tried impact rated bit in impact drill, socket bits in 1/2 drive impact, socket bits with ratchet they all snap. I’ve heated it smacked with hammer , vise grips, small pipe wrench everything. I’m just going to leave it in and split the case with muffler attached. Luckily it’s on the flywheel side and the clutch side thread hole for break handle is wallowed out supper bad. Yes I could put a thread saver in but I have several other cases already split I can use. Thanks for the advice guys and keep grinding!!!!!
Surprised that Husqvarna says stock is 4hp and your dyno says so much more! Why do you think that is? I've had mine for a year now and I couldn't imagine needing more power! Sucker has a lot of grunt as it is.
Sorry forgive me but why change an already superb saw in its standard factory spec!! Ive had one of these for 2years with no real problems apart from a tank vent! Also all the pro arborists ive worked with just go about their daily work with standard machines! These saws are perfectly ok without any mods!!! Any comments?
Nothing wrong with stock at all. But most that get them modified enjoy the extra power and chain speed of the modified saw. Same way some people cannot leave anything stock.
I have a 550xpg MK2 you ported and that thing is alittle animal, I absolutly love that saw.
Awesome! Hope it is treating you well
@@dynojoemods2764 Oh yeah its my most used saw.
@@coreycorp7048 There is nothing a 562 can do that a 550 can't.
@@vzmax I needed to hear that. Thanks. I’m trying to decide which saw is right for me. Everyone around me says Stihl…… it’s got to be a Stihl. My buddy is a dealer even. But my heart says 550xp!!! The 550 seems like a beast.
@@halfdollar86 Pro fellers either choose Stihl or Husqvarna, nothing else. But I much prefer Husqvarna, their chainsaws are nicer and have a better finish (caps, handle,...). Yes, this is an important point for me and I take care of my tools. Using a nice saw that you trust is much more pleasant.
I love how you gain equal torque and horsepower typically. I believe you build a great work saw!
The formula for horsepower is (torque x rpm)/5252. So since the saws RPM range doesn't change much, mathematically an increase in torque causes a commensurate increase in HP at a given RPM.
Good job I love doing those saws they rock
Thank you, they are fun builds for sure
Would love to see a walker port only saw on the dyno.
Love your channel. Would be curious to see a 545 before and after with 550 side plates. Then ported with both side plates.
Then compared to these results! Keep up the good work.
Man that extra bottom end would be awesome !
Wow. Was not expecting that little bugger to have that much power out of the box! Im impressed! Especially after the port work, Joe
Impressive numbers and she sounds like a mean machine!
I like that the curves are very much like stock but much better output. Very good work!
That's a impressive saw
Very nice saw
Great video, bought a 550 xp mark ii when they 1st got to the Husqvarna shop by me, 1 of my favorite saws ever, probably my favorite
Damn stout little saws!
I did a muffler mod on my 550 and it pulls a 24 inch bar very well if you go easy on the rakers, perfect climbing saw for after the top handle
I have a 550xp mk2 I built for climbing and I will not chunk a stick without it now. The mods are, 3/8 sprocket- 24 inch light bar w a square ground skip tooth x cut chain- 3 point wcs dogs and chain catch- a slightly modified 562 3/4 wrap handle- muffler mod and timing advance. I highly recommend the 562 3/4 wrap and 3 point wcs dogs, it keeps you from walking around the tree or back baring and the dogs are a must bc the stock dogs are garbage.
That sounds awesome.
Does the 562 handle fit well?
Yes the stock dogs are anemic lol
I have a 550 stock. It's my favorite saw. I also have a ported 7310p. Both are my go to saws for bucking logs
Nice job Joe.
Big number for a stock 50cc saw not far off the 562 stock pretty impressive donny walker build a 550 mk2 for me it rips.love your videos thanks for sharing
Have a 550 and 572 on order at Walkers. Donny did up a 565 for me last year. It’s an animal running a 28. Walker’s does fantastic work and are great to deal with. Win-Win
@@MrHuntermikey yes he sure does he done a 357 and 372oe for me as well
Great video I am having my new 550 ported as well.
perfect timing picking 1 up this week first auto tune little nervous heard good fuel sharp chain good to go
You should be pleased dude, i've had one a few years now no problem with autotune so far (I was a lil nervous bout that too) she rips.
You will love it , i use mine more than any other saw.
Been waiting for this one !!! HELL YEA!
If you heat the muffler bolts up with your little crack pipe torch it release s the locking agent the factory uses
Nice saws!
I LOVED this. thank you
I own a 545 mark 2, which "they say" is mildly destuned"? from the 550
sure are a badass stock. Love to see ya get a 545 to confirm the rumors on similar power. thanks Joe!!!
Great build great vid I'll get my mild 550 mark1 out to you some day see what it's doing
surprised you dont get more of them to work on
More fun thanks Joe!!!!
I love my 550 mark2
That muffler bolt is insane holy cow man, dang
Have one and did a muffler mod…love this saw.
Nice job.
I just LOVE Husqvarna lungs! I can’t believe this thing is only 50cc! I thought it was 55. I love a 359 but they’re not common or needed much where I’m at (it’s practically all soft wood and under 120’ pine where I am plus most tree utility/,companies I’ve seen use Stihl) but this thing is a great comparison to one if you’re like me and can’t put your hands on a lovely 359. Wow.. I can’t believe this thing is only 50cc… my 261 is great but it doesn’t rip like when I fired the old bosses shelved 550 up. My 261 must need rings.. this or a triple nickle.. I guess I’m gonna have to start showing some leg to get one of these…
Thing rips for how many cc it is. Well done!
I need one of those .
Pffft, Wild Thing 4 life😎
Love ya Joe😁
I ran one of those today
@@dynojoemods2764 I heard😎
You made me piss my pants I laughed so hard.😂😂
@@austindenotter19 gotta have a little humor mixed in every once in awhile😆
Nice gains considering you gave up zero tq and kept the same rpm range as stock!
Thank you
What’s the difference in the 550xp port and the 545? I had you port my 545 and it came out to be 5.30 hp and I see that your550xp ported came out to be 5.40 hp. What’s the difference? Thanks
I want to say the coil/ignition curve is the big difference. I didn't compare part numbers but tha t seems to be 1 of the ways to "tame" the 545 along with the non full circle crank.
The 550 has crank stuffers,, slightly larger transfer, and slightly different ignition tuning for "rev boost", but all that is really only marginally useful, that is, if you can move along that quickly surefooted in the field. The 550 runs hot and heat kills saws. It's important a saw run reliably well in many environments and during hot weather or on the coldest days, dirty, or when it stays hot for hours of cutting. I opted for the 545 for that reason, good balance of factors and good factory autotuning out of the box. I expect to have a strong saw for years in the wood and plenty fast and nimble for limbing. And I don't have as much $ in it as my factory 70 cc bracket saw. The factory does a good job. My personal choice is if I want more saw, then I buy a bigger factory saw.
@@duck-n-cover477 I have a lot of saws and my mark 2 550 is definitely one of my favorites. But if a saw is ported right it is more fun to use and doesn't run as hot. It's just more efficient. The power to weight ratio becomes a big factor also. Where a factory saw is lacking in my opinion is caused mostly by EPA regularly people having to stick their 2 cents in lol. I wasn't a believer in ported saws until I started having pro porters do saws for me. Now there is no way I'd ever go back. Stock saws are turds compared to the same saw in a well ported version. Only down side I can see is warranty work. The fun factor and pure enjoyment from running ported saws is worth it tho for about every single person I know that messes with saws
Could you explain in more precise details what did you do for the muffler?
How much do you charge?
😳 holy smokes! The thing rips stock; can’t imagine almost 5 1/2 hp….
I have a completely factory husqy 450 rancher, aside from piping it, is there and fairly simple mods not straying too far from stock to it. It does ok cant complain with it but I cant leave well enough alone, it's my only stock saw and I actually use it probably more than my big boys, never messed with stratified saw, all mine are old but the rancher
You could do a muffler mod and advance the timing. You could also sell it and buy a 353 husky, same specs(that's why the 450 is my favorite stock plastic cased saw), then when you want to add more power you could put a 346 piston and cylinder kit on it, after that you could have it ported 😃
@@brettblack7049 yeah I know I build myself, just haven't screwed around with that saw in particular, dont really want to port it, if I did I'd do it myself, probably build another ironhorse pipe out of aluminum and stick it on there
@@brettblack7049 it was give to me broken, I fix it I can have it, said good enough, no spark, picked up a coil from TC and shes good to go, it's a good little saw, quiet, light
@@brettblack7049 oh and the wife uses it when she uses one so I really dont want to port it, not aggressively anyway shes a little lady, probably just pipe it giveva little intake duration and call it good, cant have the wife lopping a arm off
She isnt about the 372 bb ported, cant start it to begin with or really carry it it would be murder to give her one of my big boys, 372bb ported piped, 390 same, 046 same. I cant stress mild enough with this lil rig just wouldnt mind stretching the power band out a little and flattening the curve. I got 40 bucks in it and it's like new
I didn't realize how strong these were! Is the 346 still the king or is it the 550xp mkll?
I still need to get my 346 build done. But they should end up very close as a regular work build.
I'd love to have a 562 mark2 built like you did the 550. Do you build and sell them?
We can port your saw, sometimes we have saws listed for sale on the website
www.worksaws.com
@@dynojoemods2764 thankyou.. I'll keep my eye out on your website and see about another 550 or 562. My 550 is great with just the muffler mod but a ported 550 or 562 I think would be the best saw a man could have and it's definitely what I want
I want a 550 4 a good firewood saw i think theyd be a good firewood saw
They make a very nice firewood saw
@@dynojoemods2764 i think so 2
Tanks sir!
I have a 555 autotune. They are a strong light saw. Use mine for firewood, a tank will almost fill up a pickup box. Took out the spark arresting screen from muffler. no other mods. run a 24” bar.
Totally different saws
@@steppoffaith8426 10 more cc with the 555, but similar features, like the autotune. like it after three years
@@jimhofoss9982 it's also a small bar mount like the 550, which I like.
I've got an 034 like to know what is would cost to port it
Do you toss the base gasket, Joe?
Yes
Gotta get you a 3/8" millwaukee impact
Nice gains on an already hot saw! Have you ever measured exhaust gas temps (EGT’s) on your builds? It’d be interesting to see if the tighter squish/quench and a tune to match improves upon factory settings. If so, that would indicate your work builds could survive better on 87 than stock.
I wonder how much of the gain was from the muffler mod versus all the cylinder work? Was the juice worth the squeeze?
Muffler mod is normally the first 5-8% gains.
Классное видео
I would love to see a stock mark 1 vs. mark 2 550 xp and see if all the hype about the 2 is real.
Nice one Joe , my dream saw 😍
No basegasket only sealant?
Correct.
Do you offer porting work? Id love for you to work on my 550 xp mkii
Nice.
Does the dip due to the autotune change much if you extend the run over a longer time?
It is better after some "normal" usage on a saw. Say after cutting a full tank worth, then throwing it on the dyno. Smoother tuning is all
Great job Joe, pretty smooth curve, much better than the Echo CS-501P. I wonder why the stock 562xp has less max power than the 550xp.
I think that sometimes the dyno does not give an exact absolute number for HP. Having that saud what i'm looking for is the amount of torque and HP gained relatively to the original saw, which is accurate.
echo 4910/ 501s get 5.5 pretty easily ported. Brisco has one that put out 6hp. id say the echo would be more torquey though as its non strato. though here in uk we have a lot of stock mkIIs blowing up. obviously they run on the lean side so I'm assuming a dull chain and you can pop them pretty easy is my guess🤷♂️
@@Dolmar-Rick I agree dull chain and heat transfer to the hideous nylon caged bearings kills these saws most of the time. We have had 3 562 have bearing failure within weeks couple within days out of the box. That’s not even giving to a greenhorn that’s experienced men working them. I’m not a fan of the proprietary bearings
@@jennpage3976 I agree nylon caged bearings is blows my mind. Not to mention the price. The 550markII uses the same bearing on both sides so your looking at $70-$100 just to replace them
What can you get out of a ported ms261?
I seen a Mastermind's 261 @ 5hp.
My local husky dealer says I need this saw next in my corral. Since you just ported it with no owner, do you port and sell these saws?
Did you have to remove some material from the flange to do a base gasket delete? Love your channel by the way.
I think just a gasket delete, these are a bit too tight. Yes you have to shave the extension.
Joe, do your work saw builds run on 89-90 octane, basically marina fuel, or is it best to run 93 long term?
They will run on regular fuel. I normally use the 90 octane ethanol free.
The hard decision is who to send my 550xp MK2 for porting. Buxton, Brisco, or Dyno Joe.
Ported 550 or a ported 261???
I do have a video comparing those 2.
@@dynojoemods2764 thanks I’ll check it out
I'm not sure how your Dyno is in contact with the saw .
Bar and chain spins the dyno
@@dynojoemods2764 what exactly is the difference between the 545 and the 550 EXP ?
@@jeffreyhagelin3672 I do not know all the difference, but the stock 545 is down on power vs the 550. But once ported they both end up very close.
I notice the stock saw is supposed to have 4 HP when it has nearly 5 !
What do you use for sealant
Hylomar blue
Joe i just compared this graph to your 562xp graph and it looks like the 550xp has more power in a stock vs stock match up. What is going on here???
I have had some of the 562 come in with a large range in power output discrepancies. Some a bit higher and others a bit lower. The 550s are just stout little saws too.
How do you control even and consistent braking force for the dyno? I know on most car/motor dynos one can manipulate it to get different numbers. I'm wondering if there is something out there that you could use on the dyno that is controlled by rpms, more rpms = increasing drag. Like a beefy servo at the opposite side of the bar...
Don't mind me, it's early Monday and my coffee hasn't kicked in yet.
I try to keep all the runs the same about of time.
8-10 seconds works out very well, and is very repeatable.
I watch the readings and try and pull the rpm down smooth and steady for the full 10 seconds. A servo would be nice but "tuning" it for all the different sizes would be a nightmare. Takes a whole lot more valve to slow a 880 vs a 2511 etc. Hope that makes sense.
@@dynojoemods2764 gotcha... I was just thinking utilizing electrical current/potentiometer and a servo for braking force... something that can instantaneously adjust to the load applied... whether it's instant (torque) or prolonged (hp).
🤔 then again... I'm just rattling off from the top and not thinking things through... the more I sit and purge this cabbage the more I realize I don't like electronics and it would be a nightmare to get all of that in running order and dialed in. 🤣
@@RichFife
I do have an auto load valve with my other dyno setup. But after talking with a few other operators they did not work well with 2 stroke powerband. But work great for 4 stroke pulls
@@dynojoemods2764 Nice! And definitely interesting!!!
@Tim L. I'm sure there is...
Is exhaust 78 degree?
My Finnish ears dont catch it😁
What do you mean "opened up below the factory". My understanding is that modifing the mufflers to the point of gutting out the baffels (but opening up the exhaust to the atmosphere), on the 562/550 series has zero effect on power. This is counterintuitive, but would like to see your analysis on this topic!
I removed the factory deflector, and opened the baffle to allow better flow.
Most all saws benefit from a muffler mod.
Who said opening the exhaust on a 562/550 has zero effect.
Can't remember but I believe it was associated with a cookie times test on a 562 on UA-cam. The had zero reduction in times by completely gutting the muffler after he had done all the other mods to the saw.
I know that the 592's muffler is a box without baffels and all guys are doing is opening up the exhaust port to the atmosphere. I recently had a 562 ported by a well known and respected member of the saw community and the muffler came back stock - except the exhaust to the atmosphere was opened up a bit. It seems to me that opening up the baffels inside the muffler would help. Only one way to confirm Dyno Joe!
I'm really curious about the 5 series for the lack of a better explanation(they end with a five) the 545,555 and 565. They're the only saws that the second number isn't what cc the engine is and I hear that the 545 and 550 are so close you really can't tell them apart while running them. The 545 is a xtorq I believe and the same engine as the 550, so I want to know how they stack up against their brothers and what's the real difference? They are supposed to be work saws also. Thanks if you can clear that up I think a lot of guys would like to see that video/answer.
is the graph reversed? since the rpm is acctually going down in your tests? You start at full rpm and go down ey?
Yes, read from right to left.
Boy if they could just make the electronics reliable in these!
Have you seen a lot of problems with the electronics?
@@brettblack7049 only on the mk1
Ive put my 550 mkii through the absolute gauntlet in all weather conditions and a variety of wood types and sizes. With proper maintenance its held up very well starts easy. Glad I payed a bit more over the ranch models.
could you build my saw like this
Yes, check out our website for more info.
Www.worksaws.com
Hey Joe, did you go thru the field rest with it after porting, before running it on the dyno?
12.5 ish % gain is decent for sure 😎👍
No, I didn't do the reset.it played mostly nice.
You run 50:1 ?
40:1
@@dynojoemods2764 interesting.
I run the same. Do you have any videos talking about different oil ratios and why?
I looked quick last night didn’t see any.
I have muffler bolt in the front that will not come out. I’ve tried heat EVERYTHING NO LUCK
Have you tried a new socket with breaker bar to limit the flex? Grind the head off the bolt and remove the muffler, then use heat and knipex or vise grips on the remaining screw
It takes about 300 degrees F to melt red Loctite, if that's the problem.
Have not seen one that tight. Are you snapping bits? Possibly one of those hammer screwdrivers could work. Or grind the head off.
Don't grind the head! Get the saw hot from cutting and use an impact rated bit and a hex driver. It will come out.
I’ve tried impact rated bit in impact drill, socket bits in 1/2 drive impact, socket bits with ratchet they all snap. I’ve heated it smacked with hammer , vise grips, small pipe wrench everything. I’m just going to leave it in and split the case with muffler attached. Luckily it’s on the flywheel side and the clutch side thread hole for break handle is wallowed out supper bad. Yes I could put a thread saver in but I have several other cases already split I can use. Thanks for the advice guys and keep grinding!!!!!
Surprised that Husqvarna says stock is 4hp and your dyno says so much more! Why do you think that is? I've had mine for a year now and I couldn't imagine needing more power! Sucker has a lot of grunt as it is.
Ok how much to build my new 545 lol seriously though
Can you test 545 mk2 on dyno?
I'll try next time I get one in. They are close to the 550 just a flatter type powerband. And down 10% or so power stock
Your awesome lol
Can I send you a 550?
Sorry forgive me but why change an already superb saw in its standard factory spec!!
Ive had one of these for 2years with no real problems apart from a tank vent!
Also all the pro arborists ive worked with just go about their daily work with standard machines!
These saws are perfectly ok without any mods!!!
Any comments?
Nothing wrong with stock at all. But most that get them modified enjoy the extra power and chain speed of the modified saw. Same way some people cannot leave anything stock.