The problem is that the load is distributed across a couple of small brackets resulting in cracking at the transition and flex points. Every yak is different & Boondox cannot customize brackets for each boat. I like the Boondox product but the load needs to be reinforced and distributed across a greater surface area in order to avoid this issue. I would recommend you contacting Boondox and Hobie, open a case and giving them feedback /pictures so they can lab this up and improve their products.
its why i doubled up the brackets in hull with an extra 1/4" starboard pieaces 2x2 and an aluminun plate on top.... my pa14 was often overloaded as well.. no issues with boondox
Would like to say , when it comes to plastic welding , heating the work area to be filled as well as the material to fill with and putting together both at same time is necessary as you will have a cold joint that will fail fairly quickly if you are not careful. Should have heated the hole first then back to the patch , back and forth till both warm enough and same temperature to put together. Holds much better that way.
Ive heard of this happening to other people with other brands of kayaks as well. I thought about putting them on my kayak at one time but decided against it for this reason.
I too was a big fan the Boonedox landing gear and it seemed to work well on my OB and Nucanoe Pursuit. Then I tried it on the thinner gunnels of the Bonafide and the kayaks weight caused the hull to deform at the backing plate mounting position. That’s when I realized this and potential cracking could occur on any kayak depending on the amount of accessory weight and air temperatures. I opted for a Wilderness Systems HD cart and later purchased a Hobie HD scupper cart, choosing piece of mind over convenience.
@@TexasFishingForce I had a set of Wheeleez from a Boonedox landing gear so I ordered an HD Hobie scupper cart frame and Wheeleez 1/2” hub kit so as to assemble a 300$ HD scupper cart for less than 140$ (and sold my Wilderness cart) for eventual use on a PA 14, main reason being portability, otherwise it would be hard to beat the load capacity, ease of use and dependability of the heavy duty Wilderness cart.
6:58 The larger holes were not patched right. YOU MUST HEAT BOTH SURFACE AND PATCH MATERIAL! otherwise the patch may release... Might be a month or a year later but it won't hold. The cracks were not fixed they were just cosmetically hidden. To cool the plastic just keep a spray bottle handy.
Unfortunately the cracks are still there just the surface was repaired with this method, that’s why it’s important to drill the ends of the crack. If he twisted filler rod into the cracks it would make a stronger repair but it would be noticeable because the color would be hard to match. Still good repairs so don’t think I’m saying otherwise.
I was going back and forth on whether to get the BooneDox or wilderness system cart, I went with the wilderness cart and built a storage system in the back of my yak with a couple rod holders. So far, so good.
Nicolas warned me about this product. The plastic of the new Hobies are not that great and said that would happen. Good thing he was able to fix it. Great guy.
But he didn't actually bond the entire crack all the way threw. How structurally sound will that be. He just sealed or covered the crack. To me I don't know if it would be considered a repair. But if it works great. I have a native titan 12 and I have the Boondox HD version and I watch for cracks or track distortions because mine mount to the tracks
When he heated up the cracks the topside would have started flowing together instantly, and then the more he worked it the bottom would have flowed together and it's as strong as ever, I've made a few plastic welding repairs on tanks and such and you can look inside see how well the inside bonds just by working the outside. I think Mike will probably be ok with the repair for the lifetime of the yak. Just my .02 from my experience, tight lines!
@@chancescustomfabfishing6946 I sure that his yak will keep on ticking or until jaws comes a calling lol. The reason why is the way they stopped the crack was done the proper way. I'm just not sold that what he did penetrated threw to the inside to make it a good bond. But I've never seen it done before it just didn't look right to me. I know the plastic isn't real thick so it may have done better than I think. Maybe I need to visit FTU and see it in person and get a better perspective on it or find a old yak and try it myself and see how or what it does
I agree. The drilling stopped the crack but "repair" was cosmetic. If you can get a camera inside the hull you will probably still see a crack on the other side. Really should have used a dremel or something similar to make a V grove along the crack and then fill it much like he did with the holes. Would have also considered melting some wire mesh over the area as this will continue to be a weak point. Of course, it is easy to sit back and play Monday morning quarterback with someone's videos. In the end, it will most likely be fine so long as the area doesn't get crazy amounts of stress (be careful with tightening any straps over that area when transporting). Keep watching that area, and if the crack re-appears, just try repair again using a V groove and mesh. The Boonedox is a gamble, always has been, with any kayak. No kayak was designed to support it's weight from the top of the hull. I would never recommend it but if used, be sure you have a large flat surface for both the plastic plates they offer now, and the metal plates they always included. If you don't have the surface area for both, don't install it. Hobie doesn't recommend it and Boonedox tells you to use at your own risk.
What's up fellas Definitely just cosmetic stuff it's nothing structural about it. I don't normally do structural repairs it's mainly all cosmetic. I have done some other structural stuff for people I did know not just everyday customers. I do stand behind my work if something does fail I always offer to fix it again (luckily hasn't happened) Video doesn't do it justice there is some things missing during the "repair" if you will that is left out. We are only seeing one side of the kayak as well. I will say I do work with what I have and I use tools recommended by the kayak manufacturers not high end welding tools we do not get because we just do small repairs are we by any means a big time welding repair shop. From over a year ago I have also adapted my ways of welding now. I haven't read any comments until just now. Very much interested in learning more ways of doing this type of work from more skilled professionals who do it for a living.
Very informative video, thank you for letting us know and not hiding the issue to safe face for a product that could cause issues , my respect to you sir .
I had a billion ponds on a 19 outback and no cracks. I have had them on almost all of my kayak with no issues fullllllllyyy loadedddd. I would definitely keep using them and just unload the yak then drag it? Those outback’s had seat cracking issues as well right? Way thinner then the pre 19 outback’s. Good video tho
A c-tug is what I use on my Topwater 120 PDL.....had to put 3" pvc tubes on it to keep the tunnel hull ON the cart....the kick stand is extremely FRAGILE and broke off.... not super pleased with it.....plus the Topwater needs the cart really close to center of kayak lengthwise (being somewhat older and not as "strong" as I used to be.. the closer to center the easier the carry/pull) and the curvature of the hull lets the tiedown belt slip.....try to find someone with "whatever" you chose and test it out on your kayak.....before you buy...
use heavy pool noodle attached with bungee instead of PVC- easy to take off to use with other kayaks. Been using my c-tug with Ride135 like this for 8 years I think? Not sure why you think the kickstand is fragile, unless you had it way too tight or put some side load on it somehow. Never an issue here- it just flip up out of the way and that's it.
Looks like there is no penetration to the crack 'weld'. Just a paper thin patch across the crack. I am thinking about installing some outriggers on my Hobie. This has me rethinking the mounting system.
i have a bonafide ss127 i put boondox were thay told me to. with there backer plates and all wound up with and fixing my self 7 cracks total both sides.now i use the aluminnum cross bar for rod holders . now i use the ctug cart .
Great video, really nice of him to let you record this... Excellent information. Thanks. Yep, Boondock has "jumped the shark" so to speak... Interesting to see what emerges to take it's place at the top.
Nice repair, good video! It appears that different kayak manufacturers use slightly different plastic formulations, maybe thicknesses vary, too. Hobie's polyethylene seems thicker and more brittle compared to, say, a Native's plastic. The latter is known for what I guess one would call "oil canning" where the plastic will give a bit if you press a fist into an open area of plastic. Native plastic seems more flexible. No last name here, but some of you in the Houston area know Tony S. and I recall his old PA 14 cracked somewhere below his seat. It was replaced by warranty as I recall. He's a big guy at around 250 lbs. but I was surprised his kayak cracked where it did. Agreed with a post below that this is not a Landing Gear issue, this is most kayak mfgrs. not beefing up the area to accept it. Same thing for many mfgrs not beefing up scupper holes to safely allow for scupper-based cart systems. Hobie does this, most don't.
I’m a plastic fabricator. Have been for 30 years. I can weld HDPE plastic which is what the kayak is made of. The repair was not done correctly. If you really need a solid repair call Plastek Werks. We will do it one hundred present correctly.
wow, i have always had a debate with people about the boonedox system and how they don't see it prone to fail. the only way to carry a kayak, is from below. i did my own system and works perfect. imagine the boonedox system but with pads carrying the kayak from below. and the axle is free to rotate so it doesn't cause any stress on the upper fixing point (doesn't even need to be drilled into the kayak, can be fixed on the rails.)
Nothing to do with fishing or kayak, but couldn't help but notice your house has same brick as mine. Just thought it odd being 400 miles from each other.
What location is this? Area wise, I live in Katy Texas, and can’t find which one this is just from looking at the background stores. I have a 2020 hobie outback and have a small dent in it from literally GENTLY SETTING IT on a rock. Very disappointed at how easy it was to dent it especially since I spent $3400 on the dang thing, it’s very small but I want to get it fixed due to it just being an eye sore.
Thanks man, side note- there’s a good sized meet up/tournament in matagorda on the 24th, sponsored and what not, meet at entrance to the beach at 6:30am then go to 3rd mile cut. Be cool to see you there!
I’m sorry to hear about your Boonedox issues..! But I’ll tell ya what..!!! I fish outa a Predator PDL and I love them!!! Wouldn’t own the boat without them.!!
Do you use the boonedox with anything in your tank well during transport. I’ve had the boonedox on all my kayaks and haven’t even noticed flex. I’m sure every kayak is either a bit thinner or thicker in those areas. I only use mine for about 50ft with no weight in rear tank and so far so good on 2 hobie’s and my Coosa. I’m just curious if it’s extra weight or luck of the draw in manufacturing.
@@TexasFishingForce The hobie cart is very inconvenient but serves its purpose... I seen a guy online who created an ingenious tool to apply and detach it on the water...
Called it Dude.... told ya back then, it was gonna do that. Just like the T-Bone... Boondox has a neat design just poorly executed in em. Then they dont back when their own products break and wanna charge you $20 to ship a $6 piece of plastic. Done with Boonedox.
You must be a more recent hobie owner. They only seem to Crack the camo Hobie boats. Hobie uses a weaker formula for their camo hulls. I've used boonedox landing gear on my Hobies for many years with no issues. And that about opening valves to store is complete bullshit.
Forgot to mention.... I have the Gen 2 version. And mine is ROCK SOLID... I dono.. like I said worth every penny...!!! After I spent $$$$ trying to find an easier way..
@@TexasFishingForce the location was a bad idea man. You had less than an inch width there. But hobies do crack a lot. The #1 most recycled kayak due to cracks. I've had the landing gear on my native for years and no problem. I ousted mine to a flat spot wide enough to hold the plate though.
Simple solution. Stop overloading your kayaks, why do every yak I see have six poles and loads tackles boxes and etc...... I take one tackle box, two poles, extra clothes and something to munch on while fishing.
What does loading your kayak while fishing have anything to do with this? When the kayak is in the water, the wheels are up. This isn’t from overloading a kayak, it’s from stress points while rolling the kayak, unloaded.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
The problem is that the load is distributed across a couple of small brackets resulting in cracking at the transition and flex points. Every yak is different & Boondox cannot customize brackets for each boat. I like the Boondox product but the load needs to be reinforced and distributed across a greater surface area in order to avoid this issue.
I would recommend you contacting Boondox and Hobie, open a case and giving them feedback /pictures so they can lab this up and improve their products.
Thank you, that’s what I was trying to say.
its why i doubled up the brackets in hull with an extra 1/4" starboard pieaces 2x2 and an aluminun plate on top.... my pa14 was often overloaded as well.. no issues with boondox
Would like to say , when it comes to plastic welding , heating the work area to be filled as well as the material to fill with and putting together both at same time is necessary as you will have a cold joint that will fail fairly quickly if you are not careful. Should have heated the hole first then back to the patch , back and forth till both warm enough and same temperature to put together. Holds much better that way.
Good to know. Hopefully this holds up well.
Nick knows his stuff. Great guy.
Ive heard of this happening to other people with other brands of kayaks as well. I thought about putting them on my kayak at one time but decided against it for this reason.
I too was a big fan the Boonedox landing gear and it seemed to work well on my OB and Nucanoe Pursuit. Then I tried it on the thinner gunnels of the Bonafide and the kayaks weight caused the hull to deform at the backing plate mounting position. That’s when I realized this and potential cracking could occur on any kayak depending on the amount of accessory weight and air temperatures. I opted for a Wilderness Systems HD cart and later purchased a Hobie HD scupper cart, choosing piece of mind over convenience.
I’ve heard good things about the wilderness cart. You like that better than the hobie scupper cart?
@@TexasFishingForce I had a set of Wheeleez from a Boonedox landing gear so I ordered an HD Hobie scupper cart frame and Wheeleez 1/2” hub kit so as to assemble a 300$ HD scupper cart for less than 140$ (and sold my Wilderness cart) for eventual use on a PA 14, main reason being portability, otherwise it would be hard to beat the load capacity, ease of use and dependability of the heavy duty Wilderness cart.
I’m glad I watched this. I have a predator xl. I was about to get the boondocks. I appreciate you putting this video out!
Looks like the area in which you mounted it wasn’t wide enough to accept the backing plate. I’m sure that is what caused the cracks.
That is where the instructions and the under side insert were designed for.
6:58 The larger holes were not patched right. YOU MUST HEAT BOTH SURFACE AND PATCH MATERIAL!
otherwise the patch may release... Might be a month or a year later but it won't hold.
The cracks were not fixed they were just cosmetically hidden.
To cool the plastic just keep a spray bottle handy.
Unfortunately the cracks are still there just the surface was repaired with this method, that’s why it’s important to drill the ends of the crack. If he twisted filler rod into the cracks it would make a stronger repair but it would be noticeable because the color would be hard to match. Still good repairs so don’t think I’m saying otherwise.
I have the boonedox and the Wilderness system cart. I am also taking mine off but no cracks
Probably a good idea before it happens.
I was going back and forth on whether to get the BooneDox or wilderness system cart, I went with the wilderness cart and built a storage system in the back of my yak with a couple rod holders. So far, so good.
That’s great to hear!
Nicolas warned me about this product. The plastic of the new Hobies are not that great and said that would happen. Good thing he was able to fix it. Great guy.
Definitely! Nic is great.
But he didn't actually bond the entire crack all the way threw. How structurally sound will that be. He just sealed or covered the crack. To me I don't know if it would be considered a repair. But if it works great. I have a native titan 12 and I have the Boondox HD version and I watch for cracks or track distortions because mine mount to the tracks
When he heated up the cracks the topside would have started flowing together instantly, and then the more he worked it the bottom would have flowed together and it's as strong as ever, I've made a few plastic welding repairs on tanks and such and you can look inside see how well the inside bonds just by working the outside.
I think Mike will probably be ok with the repair for the lifetime of the yak. Just my .02 from my experience, tight lines!
@@chancescustomfabfishing6946 I sure that his yak will keep on ticking or until jaws comes a calling lol. The reason why is the way they stopped the crack was done the proper way. I'm just not sold that what he did penetrated threw to the inside to make it a good bond. But I've never seen it done before it just didn't look right to me. I know the plastic isn't real thick so it may have done better than I think. Maybe I need to visit FTU and see it in person and get a better perspective on it or find a old yak and try it myself and see how or what it does
I agree. The drilling stopped the crack but "repair" was cosmetic. If you can get a camera inside the hull you will probably still see a crack on the other side. Really should have used a dremel or something similar to make a V grove along the crack and then fill it much like he did with the holes. Would have also considered melting some wire mesh over the area as this will continue to be a weak point. Of course, it is easy to sit back and play Monday morning quarterback with someone's videos. In the end, it will most likely be fine so long as the area doesn't get crazy amounts of stress (be careful with tightening any straps over that area when transporting). Keep watching that area, and if the crack re-appears, just try repair again using a V groove and mesh. The Boonedox is a gamble, always has been, with any kayak. No kayak was designed to support it's weight from the top of the hull. I would never recommend it but if used, be sure you have a large flat surface for both the plastic plates they offer now, and the metal plates they always included. If you don't have the surface area for both, don't install it. Hobie doesn't recommend it and Boonedox tells you to use at your own risk.
What's up fellas
Definitely just cosmetic stuff it's nothing structural about it.
I don't normally do structural repairs it's mainly all cosmetic. I have done some other structural stuff for people I did know not just everyday customers.
I do stand behind my work if something does fail I always offer to fix it again (luckily hasn't happened)
Video doesn't do it justice there is some things missing during the "repair" if you will that is left out. We are only seeing one side of the kayak as well.
I will say I do work with what I have and I use tools recommended by the kayak manufacturers not high end welding tools we do not get because we just do small repairs are we by any means a big time welding repair shop.
From over a year ago I have also adapted my ways of welding now. I haven't read any comments until just now.
Very much interested in learning more ways of doing this type of work from more skilled professionals who do it for a living.
I use a c tug. It's not bad. I hear the Malone cart is good as well
I’ll definitely take a look at them.
Thanks for sharing, I heard stories about this happening and I was about to buy to. I think I'll hold off and look for other alternatives .
Good idea.
great video never seen this proses before thanks for sharing.
Very informative video, thank you for letting us know and not hiding the issue to safe face for a product that could cause issues , my respect to you sir .
Thank you! I dont mind admitting my mistakes and Id rather help others from making the same mistake.
Dang bro! Hope you’re able to get back on the water soon. Tight lines! 🇺🇸🙌🏼🎣
Should be back out there this week.
I had a billion ponds on a 19 outback and no cracks. I have had them on almost all of my kayak with no issues fullllllllyyy loadedddd. I would definitely keep using them and just unload the yak then drag it? Those outback’s had seat cracking issues as well right? Way thinner then the pre 19 outback’s. Good video tho
A c-tug is what I use on my Topwater 120 PDL.....had to put 3" pvc tubes on it to keep the tunnel hull ON the cart....the kick stand is extremely FRAGILE and broke off.... not super pleased with it.....plus the Topwater needs the cart really close to center of kayak lengthwise (being somewhat older and not as "strong" as I used to be.. the closer to center the easier the carry/pull) and the curvature of the hull lets the tiedown belt slip.....try to find someone with "whatever" you chose and test it out on your kayak.....before you buy...
use heavy pool noodle attached with bungee instead of PVC- easy to take off to use with other kayaks. Been using my c-tug with Ride135 like this for 8 years I think? Not sure why you think the kickstand is fragile, unless you had it way too tight or put some side load on it somehow. Never an issue here- it just flip up out of the way and that's it.
Install boondocks on my Hobie pro angler 12 2017 when I bought it no problems at all love it
Looks like there is no penetration to the crack 'weld'. Just a paper thin patch across the crack. I am thinking about installing some outriggers on my Hobie. This has me rethinking the mounting system.
i have a bonafide ss127 i put boondox were thay told me to. with there backer plates and all wound up with and fixing my self 7 cracks total both sides.now i use the aluminnum cross bar for rod holders . now i use the ctug cart .
Yeah. Lessons learned. Never again,lol. Glad you got yours fixed up too.
C tug worked well with my outback. I used the sand track wheels and it worked fine on both surfaces.
I’ll check it out!
Great video, really nice of him to let you record this... Excellent information. Thanks. Yep, Boondock has "jumped the shark" so to speak... Interesting to see what emerges to take it's place at the top.
Hope you told JLo hi. If you aren’t breaking your boat, you aren’t trying!
That’s the truth, and you definitely know a little about breaking a boat, lol.
Nice repair, good video! It appears that different kayak manufacturers use slightly different plastic formulations, maybe thicknesses vary, too. Hobie's polyethylene seems thicker and more brittle compared to, say, a Native's plastic. The latter is known for what I guess one would call "oil canning" where the plastic will give a bit if you press a fist into an open area of plastic. Native plastic seems more flexible. No last name here, but some of you in the Houston area know Tony S. and I recall his old PA 14 cracked somewhere below his seat. It was replaced by warranty as I recall. He's a big guy at around 250 lbs. but I was surprised his kayak cracked where it did. Agreed with a post below that this is not a Landing Gear issue, this is most kayak mfgrs. not beefing up the area to accept it. Same thing for many mfgrs not beefing up scupper holes to safely allow for scupper-based cart systems. Hobie does this, most don't.
nick should have his own channel, great stuff...
I agree, he is a character!
I’m a plastic fabricator. Have been for 30 years. I can weld HDPE plastic which is what the kayak is made of. The repair was not done correctly. If you really need a solid repair call Plastek Werks. We will do it one hundred present correctly.
I’d love to see the process, I have to admit I am not knowledgeable enough to know the difference.
Those Boondock wheels seemed like a terrible idea to me. Support from the bottom.
Bummer!.... I just bought Boonedox landing gear. I really don't like the hobie wheels but I guess I'm going to deal with it.
I recommend the Wilderness Systems Heavy Duty Kayak Cart. In fact I also switched from Boondox to this cart.
It's on Amazon.
I’ve been looking at those this week. I’m really thinking that is the route I’m going to go. Thank you!
It looks great but it takes so much room
wow, i have always had a debate with people about the boonedox system and how they don't see it prone to fail. the only way to carry a kayak, is from below. i did my own system and works perfect. imagine the boonedox system but with pads carrying the kayak from below. and the axle is free to rotate so it doesn't cause any stress on the upper fixing point (doesn't even need to be drilled into the kayak, can be fixed on the rails.)
FTU is awesome! It’s hard not to drop a couple hundred in there 👍🏼.
I use the Malone WideTrak MPG521. Awesome Cart!
Awesome, I'll definitely check that out.
The kid was worth every penny you paid him. Has a friend win a limited edition Kraken in an auction and had the same issue.
Glad you were able to get it repaired.
Any chance you’d be selling your landing gear? I could put it to use.
I would definitely sell it but I wouldn’t recommend it on a kayak.
@@TexasFishingForce I have a different project I’d use it for.
Feel free to hit me on ig pm. Gentleman Jim’s Beard Oil.
Shit my PA 12 just did the same thing the other day with the same setup. I’ve been trying to figure out how to fix an I just gave up.
It’s definitely fixable.
Great vid Mike, I dropped the Reed cap off at your shop
Man, I appreciate it. You should of hung out for a bit. I could’ve taken a break and chatted with you for a sec.
This was cool to watch. I’m glad he could fix your kayak. 💙
Me too!
What was the price they charged to repair the kayak? Thanks
I don’t remember off the top of my head but it was super cheap. Like under 40.00
Can you ask Nick what the make and model number is on that heat gun?
Much appreciated.
Yes, I’ll ask him.
Looks like a Leister
Hey Nick here and it's a spot welder it's Harbor Freight
If you can get your hands on a Wildy Cart is a win for those heavier kayaks
Really, I’ll check it out.
@@TexasFishingForce super hard to come by... but they are hands down the best
Those Wildy carts look pretty stout! Would be good for transporting a loaded down kayak for sure
Nick sure knows about kayaks.
Nothing to do with fishing or kayak, but couldn't help but notice your house has same brick as mine. Just thought it odd being 400 miles from each other.
Really? That’s interesting.
What location is this? Area wise, I live in Katy Texas, and can’t find which one this is just from looking at the background stores.
I have a 2020 hobie outback and have a small dent in it from literally GENTLY SETTING IT on a rock. Very disappointed at how easy it was to dent it especially since I spent $3400 on the dang thing, it’s very small but I want to get it fixed due to it just being an eye sore.
This is the beltway/45 location.
Thanks man, side note- there’s a good sized meet up/tournament in matagorda on the 24th, sponsored and what not, meet at entrance to the beach at 6:30am then go to 3rd mile cut. Be cool to see you there!
@@jordanshepherd6514 that would be fun.
@@jordanshepherd6514 where can I find info on it?
Just emailed you the info, it’s coming from jshep92595@gmail.com.
I’m sorry to hear about your Boonedox issues..! But I’ll tell ya what..!!! I fish outa a Predator PDL and I love them!!! Wouldn’t own the boat without them.!!
you know that they are covering to top cracks, inside is still there the crack, just take that in consideration.
Do you use the boonedox with anything in your tank well during transport. I’ve had the boonedox on all my kayaks and haven’t even noticed flex. I’m sure every kayak is either a bit thinner or thicker in those areas. I only use mine for about 50ft with no weight in rear tank and so far so good on 2 hobie’s and my Coosa. I’m just curious if it’s extra weight or luck of the draw in manufacturing.
I’ve had it loaded down while moving to the truck a handful of times but not many.
Just was there yesterday!
Hopefully not for a repair.
Nah dude, dropped off my reels. Unexpected tide came in and got sand all in my reel.
WOW nice too know and see as a kayaker
Gracias very good advice great videos.
Thank you!
Great video thanks for sharing
Exactly why I didn’t get the boomdox...
Good call!
@@TexasFishingForce The hobie cart is very inconvenient but serves its purpose... I seen a guy online who created an ingenious tool to apply and detach it on the water...
Called it Dude.... told ya back then, it was gonna do that.
Just like the T-Bone... Boondox has a neat design just poorly executed in em.
Then they dont back when their own products break and wanna charge you $20 to ship a $6 piece of plastic.
Done with Boonedox.
which FTU?
The one by beltway 8 and I-45
You must be a more recent hobie owner. They only seem to Crack the camo Hobie boats. Hobie uses a weaker formula for their camo hulls. I've used boonedox landing gear on my Hobies for many years with no issues. And that about opening valves to store is complete bullshit.
I sold my yak that had the landing gear. I won't buy another set. I'll buy a C-Tug cart.
Forgot to mention.... I have the Gen 2 version. And mine is ROCK SOLID... I dono.. like I said worth every penny...!!! After I spent $$$$ trying to find an easier way..
They are nice but just not worth the issues it may cause.
Don't use a cart for the scupper-holes either there bad news
Are they? Haven’t used one so I wasn’t aware. I’ll definitely do some research.
When mine cracks, I’ll just tell my wife I need a new kayak (360) cuz mine broke, lol
If only that worked...
Ohhhhhh mmmmmmyyyyyyyy g000000000dddddnessssssssss that dude is the Michael Angelo of plastic
Haha, he definitely did a great job,
There is no way you added a backing plate under that landing gear. Not trying to be a prick but that's 100% your fault for mounting location.
Lol, I 100% mounted it properly with the directions provided.
@@TexasFishingForce the location was a bad idea man. You had less than an inch width there. But hobies do crack a lot. The #1 most recycled kayak due to cracks. I've had the landing gear on my native for years and no problem. I ousted mine to a flat spot wide enough to hold the plate though.
Simple solution. Stop overloading your kayaks, why do every yak I see have six poles and loads tackles boxes and etc...... I take one tackle box, two poles, extra clothes and something to munch on while fishing.
What does loading your kayak while fishing have anything to do with this? When the kayak is in the water, the wheels are up. This isn’t from overloading a kayak, it’s from stress points while rolling the kayak, unloaded.
Boonedox hit the thumbs down on your video
Lol, probably.