Wifi Energy Meter DDS238 - Stripdown and First Use
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
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Stripdown and operational first look.
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Well, coming from my knowledge of isolation transformers, you'd most likely be fine and wouldn't feel a thing since it's floating.
Edit: It's definitely safer to have it floating, but don't recommend trying tho.
IF not mistaken tasmota support Them so you can some proper software on it :) so you can manage it through mqtt and can get some decent data out for graphing too. Just a Little tip ;)
I am planning to look into Tasmota - cheers :)
You might have to do a manual (serial) flashing because flashing via WiFi is not supported on the latest Tuya firmware.
I've been using tasmota and OpenHab for years. It's excellent
@@DrGreenGiant likewise.
The WE part of the WiFi module means it's (W)iFi based on (E)SP chip. Good for being able to re-flash with the tasmota firmware. No need to rely on cloud services to get your data.
Just wondering what would happen if you held the button down then power it up would that reset the counters
You should connect to your house consumer unit. Then you can look at the value being exported to the grid to determine if you should turn your miners on. You don't want to run minors when your oven is on and you are consuming all your solar energy being produced.
Did you tested this? How did you make the scenarios? Most reviews states that the power exported is not properly showed to make a scenario.
This is another TUYA based device. TYWE3S uses an ESP8266 chip. Almost identical to the ESP-12, it can be programmed as an ESP-12, except the flash memory is 1M instead. My light switch came with this chip, and I am so glad I could finally integrate a decent looking light switch into my own automation system.
Now we need some nice 5 or 6 button attractive Tuya light switches!
hey what switch was it? sonoff or?
The title made me think that this was a 2.4 or 5.8 GHz power probe tuned to measure only signals, probably averaged in some way. Somewhat disappointed.
You would feel it, when I was younger I accidentally pulled cables out of a chocolate block by tripping over it (yeah, I know it was silly to use, it wasn't me who did it), and without thinking I twisted the wires to put them back in, did one side fine - but as soon as I touched the other I got a bit of a buzz!! - that was with the Neutral, straight from the mains.. I was sat on a bed at the time I was trying to fix them too, legs crossed!
Why so meny adverts
Good question. Other electronics channels know how to get rid of the mid-roll ads but for some reason they are still used here. Very annoying.
I leave the mid-rolls on because I'm worth it ;)
@@JulianIlett - Actually you are just P. off your long time viewers for $0.001. Other channels know this isn't worth it and ends up costing them subscribers if they persist.
Hi, long press to do an init is probably only for the zigbee version. In the zigbee version it is used to pair the device with the gateway. Do you know what the green pin in the front are for? Pin 5 and 6. The manual say it is for impulse, no idea what does it mean. On a different version of the dds238 it says it is a modbus rs485 connection, which seem more likely.
Can you test for negative "active power" ?
The RS485 version of this meter can do, displays a small minus sign above the number and reports negative over RS485.
The app will not report because it might confuse people, but the data might be there. Would allow a "limiter" function for solar.
One question if the solar panels is generating 0watts the dds238 wifi is still on communicating our turns of until have sun again? great video
when i read the title of this video i thought it meant 'a meter for measuring the power of wifi' - that's why i'm here. never heard of one of them, that's because they don't exist nigel. ffs
Having watched JW and looked at my own mains supply from the grid, it's incorrect to assume that the neutral is earthed at the substation and the earth cable runs to the same place. On a TN-C system, the neutral is split off at the main fuseholder to become the earth (a PEN connection - Protective Earth Neutral) so as the wiring comes into the house neutral is exactly the same as earth. Becomes a problem if the neutral breaks outside as then any connected load acts as a path for all 'earthed' surfaces to become live.
to bad thyt the tuya mcu doesnt send info about all of the info that a shown on the display. especially the reverse power is missing imho. same is with the dts238-7 (3 pahse version), where also just overall statistics are available and not for every phase. :-(
those other 3writings that you saw was in Lithuanian language... its almaost like Latvian ;) how much did this meter cost to you? im asking because i could use it in my solar system ;)
I think it was $20 from Banggood
Current power; current voltage ; current current?
11:48 There's no need for any adjective to describe the three readings on the user interface. They could have just labelled the units as Power, Voltage and Current.
Edit: Just spotted the mysterious quantity Ele which is measured in units of kelvin watt hours.
Yeah, the user interface on some of these devices is just horrible :/
Interesting. Is it WIFI? If this is for the shed complex weight could be a concern maybe?
yep it's wifi
This is the stupid version od DDS238-2. The smart one is IVAP.
Just bought one of these to use as a main meter, kind of dissapointed that the app doesn't show positive or negative power, I have solar power and I'm interested in knowing if my power is being exported or consumed by my loads. Also if you are using this as a main meter I strongly recommend disconnecting the coil wires, last thing one needs is accidentally switching off your main power by pressing a huge ass button without any confirmation. Make sure the relay is in the on position if you disconnect the coil as it's indeed a latching relay. The software of these meters is horrible BTW.
It would depend on your resistance to ground. Ton of resistance = little shock.
No you wouldn't feel it. Same with if you touch one wire coming from a bathroom shaver socket. But that's the problem, you have no way of knowing it's live so accidentally touching the other wire would give you a dangerous shock
Lets not but say we did touch it
You can buy the standard WIFI Tuya Plug Socket with same monitoring functions.
Or even an extension lead so you have more outlets and timers
The difference is that this can control devices or circuits that draw up to 65A (although confusingly the max operating current is specified as 50A to 79A), so you can control and monitor the supply to a whole property.
Many thanks! You convinced me ;).
Just one info: supposing to place it upstream to all my loads - if I switch off it from the app I'll lose the possibility to re-switch it on.... and I would need the restart of the router to be able to switch it back on via the app - is there the possibility to switch on/off via the physical button I do see on the front of the device? Many thanks. Cheers
ups. just reached the end - it is the 3x click right? With that 3x clicl i can switch the device on/off without the wifi right?
Can you access the device from a non-Tuya applications (python library, RESTfull API)?
In my case the breaker is not working. There is a relay noise when activated but output load is always connected. Is mine broken?
You should give it a static IP address (ie:192.168.1.50) and block its wifi in the firewall setting of your router, and not let it get on the internet.
I don't trust Chinese products with apps.
Tuya devices are cloud based, it would not work at all.
If you're gonna go that far, you might as well design your own with a custom pcb and an esp32. Then you don't have to rely on some cloud service and not worry about that data going somewhere you don't want it to. Plus when their servers inevitably go down, you won't be stuck with a paperweight, like with most iot devices.
@@HobkinBoi I did that 3 years ago with a SONOFF and uploaded the Tasmota firmware. It's more powerful and has more features, with a local WEB GUI, but with a regular relay.
@@gabest4 That's why I'll never buy one. The Chinese will sell your data just like Google does.
@@piconano github.com/krikk/Hiking-DDS238-2-WIFI-Din-Rail-Energy-Meter-flashing-Tasmota
you can put Tasmota on it btw
How to factory reset?
Wow amazing. Thanks for sharing this latest information.
Would this be able to measure consumption of 2phase 400V water heater? At least they claim it is 400v and not 2x 230V.
no
_"treble click"_ ? You sure talk funny sometimes, Julian!
Yes joke, he will drag you to the nearest water source, and just drown you.
I was waiting for you to turn it off and not be able to turn it on again. Ha ha.
Hi
Can I reset it to zero
What's the green terminal block used for?
What's the difference using app to check?
If only they brought out the connection between the relay and shunt, then the one unit could work for both solar monitoring and switching on some miners. Or more commonly, allow two large loads to share a circuit by turning one off if the total current goes above a user set value.
Waiting for fitting into your consumer unit to monitor your solar production will be interesting.
Hello! Nice video. I'm not an electrician, but I have a doubt: at t=1:01 in its housing the device states its rated for 5 to 65 Amps. But when you dismount the pieces, the "Live AC" wires seems to be around 10 AWG gauge. Can these wires work with 65 amperes steady, as stated? According to manuals, for 65 Amps it should be 6 AWG gauge with copper wires. Am I missing something with the specs? Thanks!
Very interesting point
Have you managed to find an answer?
Extremely amazing product
thank you alot
👍 Danke!
👍 Thank you Julian!
I would not touch them because your main outlet is also not connected with ground and you get a shock when you touch the live wire because the electrons are going to ground through your body why should this be different?
Neutral is connected to ground at the sub in the UK so the live coming out of our sockets would take the path through our bodies to ground. With the mains unit Julian had, there is no reference to ground so no path could be formed.
On a TN-C installation, it's connected earth to neutral at the main fuseholder coming into the house, there is no independent earth feed, just a neutral.
You plugged it in before wiring it up? A braver man than me.
Is this one still functioning? Many people say smart plugs tend to explode, so I was wondering how safe this one is. Thank you
Where is your power going before you switch the miner on?
I presume it feeds back into the grid.
That's just not going to work though, is it Julian? The power meter is measuring the amount of power being consumed, not how much power your solar system can provide. You're not going to be able to use it as a 'The sun is out, and there's more than 800W of 'free power' available' trigger. Your only chance of doing that is if your solar inverter supports throwing a relay itself if *it* determines the conditions to be right to be providing power to an auxiliary circuit. Or is this a grid tie system, meaning it is always loaded because it's trying to export?
It's working now - I put the meter in my distribution box and it turns a miner on at 800W each morning. I have a grid-tied rooftop system.
@@JulianIlett im trying to set up similar automation but find it difficult because tuya doesn't distinguish exported energy from imported. I thought i can trigger an even when amount of exported energy exceed a certain amount but it won't work as it will also trigger the same event in case if energy consumed instead of being exported. How did you work around this?
@@skyeye101 i have the same question. Did you get any luck with this. I hate that the guys from Huawei solar did not make the aps compatible to each oder.
@@ionutoctav87 no luck, still wondering how Julian got it working, but guess it's top secret as he doesn't reply to this comment 😆
@@skyeye101 just ordered a smart meter. I have a space where the old meter was initially. It will be conected directly to the mains.
I hope tuya will see the "
For a European main land board the layout for two live terminals below and two neutral terminals above does not make any sense at all! Is this a specific British thing?
It didn't make much sense when I installed it. I ended up fitting it upside down.
@@JulianIlett In that case the display will give an Australian readout ;)
@@JulianIlett I suspect this unconventional arrangement was to save copper, internally. The EARU RDCBC/TJ-2P is more conventionally arranged, incorporates a double pole relay, is rated up to 90A and is cheaper (no LCD 'though)
@@sailingoctopus1 Also no meter
@@JulianIlett what do you mean? The circuit breaker is between 3 and 4 or between 1 and 2?
@12:06 your screen shows an edit icon. Would that allow you to reset the kwh?
No, just fields for icon, name and location. Disappointingly limited.
@@JulianIlett That's too bad. No way to upgrade the firmware? Like I did with SONOFF and Tasmota?
@@piconano you defn can from what I've read tbh
github.com/krikk/Hiking-DDS238-2-WIFI-Din-Rail-Energy-Meter-flashing-Tasmota
Is this a reliable meter and relay ?
Yes, I'm still using it. I'm only putting 16A through it.
@@JulianIlett Thank you for replying.
Just one more question : Are the reading consistent with other meters ?
So you only switch the miners on when the power is free ?
At the moment, the miners are running at breakeven. So I'm only switching them on when power is free. Problem is, after a few hours, the sheds get so warm I have to switch them back off (or remove the shed walls).
@@JulianIlett pour water on them and hire it out as a Sauna !...interesting stuff...cheers.
@@JulianIlett Up your solar setup and get some air conditioning running with it?
240v will move you across the room (mains or powerbank)
Not really 😁 German Electrician here, speaking of own experience 😅 What makes you fly is the high voltage in an old Tube TV 🤪
No it won't.
Work with 240V every day of my life - still haven't learned to fly. Simple solution, don't touch live wires.
Hi! First impression: Don't need to know inside look, 2nd, near end: Wow, switch can be toggled at device directly, best information, was glad to view the whole video. 😃
Jumped to my DDS238 which looks slightly different, maybe 1 year older, but no way to switch the relay, tried several "codes" up to five presses. Very sad!
But anyway, thank you for this vid!
@Julian Ilett are your plans to use this in the shed for the Antminers on the DC side ??? Or AC side. It wasn't clear. I see that these are AC specified units, in your opinion how would they go handling DC (say ~24v 80-90A) cut off?
I think he has some wifi controlled mains sockets to which the Antminer's AC supply is connected.
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