Congrats! Very nice EVSE. I was considering building my own Arduino based EVSE but eventually went the Open-EVSE route, mainly because of lack of time. Yours looks very good too. Keep up the good work!
Bruno, the pcb's were just purchased on ebay. If you go on ebay and search for pcb manufacturing, you will find many services for sale and look for one that meets your requirements. I would highly recommend this over an expensive service if its just some small project your working on. You can buy them really cheap from china or a little more pricey to be made in USA.
Hey Jacob I'm thinking of building my own level 3 dc fast charger for my final year engineering project. Can you make a video on it and guide me, please. Thank you
Just wanted to say that it's awesome that you made this and are looking to help others. I'm still in the dreaming/research phase of getting an EV. I need a minimum 100 miles of real world (a/c or heat on) range or a Model S closer to half price to consider it.
For a 30A draw you need a 40A circuit... running at 100% for the extended time a car charger draws will overheat the breaker. For a 30A breaker the max continuous draw is 24A.
Um no your wrong a 30A breaker will supply 30A all day every day because that's it's max continuous rating... also 10AWG or 6mm2 is the correct size cable too
@@rjac001 It will work, but it's against code. It's legal for a non continuous loads. But for continuous loads 3 hours or longer the 80% rule applies. 210.19(A)(1).
Jason Kates The circuit breaker is only there to protect the cable, the 10 gauge wire is rated at 32A continuously and so there’s no risk of damage or fire to the cable, also it’s a fast charger so I doubt it will be delivering maximum current for very long
Finally! I've been looking for this particular video for a week now. This is encouraging. If you have a schematic video, I don't know yet, but this explanation was great!
Jacob, This is a really awesome project! I currently have a 3.3kWh charger and would like to move up to a 6.6 kWh charger. I'd love to build a charger that had a timer so that it only charged to 80%. This project rocks! Ready to start when you are.
It would be nice to be able to buy just the finished control board and then adding the other less sensitive components to it, like relays, power supply, etc. It would make building one of these chargers an order of magnitude easier.
Great idea on open source. I see a Jordi Munoz or a Chris Anderson here. Who knows it can regulate the charging industry mate. Keep doing what you do and in future once you make a name for yourself,, you can just settle into a reliable hardware company like netgate does for pfsense. Keep up the good work and sure buddy you have got the brains to make your hobby work. Do post the project on UA-cam so you will get a community.... I will be sure in it
michael patterson my 2014 Smart has the same ESVE. I've been running it on 240 volts. Same with my Chevy Volt. I think they built them 120/240 for USA/Europe/Asia. I just made a 120 to 240 adapter.
of course I'm interested! I'm riveted and would love to see your behind the scenes build and coding. I understand your time is valuable but I would love to build one similar even though I like the juicebox 40 there is nothing like doing it yourself for control and comprehension of the technology. Sorry to request you work more to show how you coded your arduino it's just really well done and I know I could not do this without some guidance, I don't mean to seem unappreciative of it. Thank you for making this video I am grateful
Hi Jacob .... very well done video, long time back I used to do projects with micro-controllers, this was a good refresher. I bought prius prime and it came with a 110V cable. I saw another video on youtube where it says you use NEMA 10-30 to 5-20 converter and you can use same cable that came with Car to charge at 240V. Do you see any issues using it 110V cable that Toyota provided to use with 240V ? BTW have you assembled the PCB that you shoed towards the end?
Jacob, I am a retired EE. The control panel lacks an interlock safety that can easily be part of your key lock like a lock/service and run (easily just a 12VDC shut off). I don't know if your software uses a sense circuit before it sends 240VDC to charge your FIAT 500 EV. BTW, back in the late 60's I had a FIAT 600D 1.1 litre gas engine. It was a suicide car (backward opening doors, etc. The new FIAT 500s are a class above those FIATs.
There is no need for that as the relay never closes till the vehicle is connected. Because I built this charger for myself it wouldn't be necessary to add an interlock to shut off the power when the door is opened. The voltage is 240VAC not DC but that doesn't matter much. Why would an interlock be necessary?
Set up a patreon and make this opensource. You could sell diy kits on ebay. One kit option could be just the arduino with sw, relays, pcb. Often DIYers have auto ranging 12V power supplies lying arround and the bulky heavy stuff can be sourced locally. Also using github allows collaboration and sw vetting and improvements. Kick starter is unnecessarily expensive. Use PayPal which gives buyer protection. OSH park does low volume pcb cheaply.
Hello! Very nice video, everything well explained! It's been 5 year since you made the video. Do you still have this project traceback? I want to build one.Do you still have the data? Pcb file? Code line? Parts list? Thank you in advance!
Hello Jacob, Thanks for the video. It is informative and helpful. I don't know if you have made any chargers or kits to sell but I would be interested. I like how you can vary the charge and how you built in those capabilities.
hey jacob - you should add a amp meter to the charger showing how much power the car is using - giving an indication on the battery charge level without having to go into the car and check!? - also do you have solar on your roof? - it would be an awasome addition - even if you were to use some Ebay solar panels and the Ebay micro Grid Tie inverters - they work alright aslong as if its rated for 500w you only put 400w thru it!
looks really great .use the basic principle of the EV charger，but there maybe a issue about the TYPE B RCCB or something breaker for the safe，hope the upper level have that breaker. and i come from a EV charger company which form China.
@@chris2pherrea that's not true for microinverters or power optimizers. A typical central system varies from as little 250V up to 1000V on the DC side at a residence. The Tesla powerwall operates around 400V for the purposes of charging Tesla EV cars through solar sources. The output is usually single phase 240VAC.
@@edwardruiz8920 Right, but as I have the option to install a new system on my house as 25Kw, I can choose to make them 500v strings, and could them use them directly into the DC charge port of my leaf ??
Wonderful video, thank you for making it. You should make this open source. So let me get this straight. I'm new to all of this. So the charger (AC to DC conversion) is really located in the car, why do they call the thing they call a charger for $500 to $1,000? Seems to me it's not a charger but a micro controller to control the amount of AC being delivered to the charger in the car. When you refuse the current being delivered tot he batteries are you just cycling the power relay to reduce the amperage/wattage? If so, seems to me the relay contacts would burn out in no time. Any idea why they did not put all of the charger circuitry into the car? So to charge it, all one would have to do is use an extension cord and plug into a 120vac or 220vac outlet?
I made a series of videos explaining how all that works in much greater detail and actually show how to make one. To limit current it is not the power relay but rather the charging unit in the car regulates the power electronics within it to decrease the current.
***** That makes sense. So what's the purpose of the external $500-$1,000 "charger" circuitry if the charger is already in the car? Why not use a 120 v or 240 v extension cord to the charger in the car? What am I missing? Can you provide the links to your videos? Thanks for making them.
I explain it in my first video about how to make the charger. My fit charger video has nothing but details about this charging standard and how it works. The primary purpose is to de-energize connectors until the car is ready to charge and also to tell the car how much power the specific charging station it is plugged into can supply.
It a very good idea. I am interested to make my own EV Charging Station. Could you give me more detail about the component you used and the coding of Arduino. Thank you.
I would like to try and make the one you have on the PCB at the end of your video. Do you have the schematic or the board layout, I would get one made and start playing with it to learn more. Great video thanks
Awesome video. Just got a 2014 spark ev. I wonder what the max amps in 240volt charge mode my car would draw? As Im just learning the cars have onboard chargers that limit the max amp charge, so getting the biggest amp 240 charger might be a waste of money if your car won't use the power. But I'm looking to make my own charger and help others make there ev,s more affordable here in New Orleans its the oil mans land.
very good job, i am interesting in making charger like that if you can help me with more details and diagram, i hope you have the time to help.awesome work
Hi Jacob i m interested to know more about it like how to use this PCB board and build the components. or if you have a kit or if you have list of items that we have to solder on this PCB board.
I'm thinking of getting my own 500e to zip around in and mod. I'll definitely be building one of these as part of that. Do you still have your 500e? Did you do anything else to it?
Recardo Poole I have been very busy recently with school but hope to get some new videos up soon. That video is on my list but will be a longer video to produce. subscribe to see it when it does come out. I hope to get started on it soon.
I would like to know if you are able to build a charging station that is solar powered. My idea is of solar panels and/or wind turbines that charge a battery bank. That battery bank can then be used to charge your electric car. This way an electric car owner can have their battery bank charged while they are at work during the day. When they get home they can transfer that stored electric power onto their car. Let me know.
You can’t copy the code off your other Arduino that’s in use? Yeah, I’ve wondered why OpenEVSE is so expensive. It must have to do with regulatory compliance and certifications or something.
hey , what happens if we use 120v instead of 230 v in these same circuit. Will the car try to take 30A. Remember we don't change anything in the circuit only the input voltage.
Okay, this is way out in left field coming from a complete novice . I'm building a camper van to go cross country. I'm hoping to use a Tesla model 3 module (slab) as my house battery. Solar will likely not be able to keep up with my power needs. What would it take to be able to use EV power station to top off my battery along the way.
0:55 A DIY EV Charger from $200 of parts? Ummm... a Feyree 7KW charger costs less than $200 . . . But of course THIS VIDEO is about being able to make one.
Although I watched this video lately but i think you're right what i realised is that it's not a charger rather a monitor i have a problem that I would like to ask you about i bought a GE durastation level 2 charger 60hz and i took it outside to Jordan where the 240v are one phase and one neutral and not like it's in the states, also the hz is 50 not 60 it didn't work but i could test it to see the problem which was the hz thing. I wonder if you could help me to convert the charger from 60hz to 50hz thanks.
Damion Litrel you should not have to hook up that wire all the proximity signaling is done between the car and the resistor network in the connector handle.
Also, though that relay is rated for 30A, the QD terminals are not. Fortunately your car is not pulling a full 30A, but if it were, those QD terminals would overheat. I speak from experience.
+J Bishop 30A in general does not mean 30A continuous current for an unlimited time. In general, unless the component specifically says that it's rated for 30A EVSE or continuous duty, you need to derate it by 20% when used for continuous duty service. I haven't ever found QD terminals that work long-term at more than 24A. And even getting them to work at 24A requires using a ratcheting crimping tool, and using it *properly* and with very high quality terminals. The ones I use were something like 75¢ each in Q:100 from DigiKey. The crappy ones you get from Home Depot are no good. And you don't want to solder crimp terminals. Solder actually doesn't conduct nearly as well as copper does, and if you do the math, a resistance of a mere tenth of an ohm at 30A will dissipate 90W of power!
where people like me can get instructions to build the charger I drive the same car but takes too long to charge it with the level 1 charger that comes with the car, please can you publish a guide online?
Do you have a commercial project running on this or a later better design?Would you like one?My company is looking to get involved in the home market fast charge EV sector.Based in UK, but not a problem USA.Please advise status / interest.Thanks P Bentley MD
Hi Jacob . Did you get any of these boards available to buy? I'd love one (or more than one!) Ideally populated with components and the chip already coded. I can build the rest. How can I reach you?
You left out some rather important safety checks that are required by the spec. There's no GFI, there's no stuck relay test or ground continuity monitoring. By itself, this EVSE is not unsafe, but if any of the faults occur that those checks are intended to detect, the result could be very hazardous. Imagine if the car had a ground fault and the ground connection from the car to the premises was not low impedance. The result would be that the entire frame of the car would be energized at 240 VAC. A proper EVSE would detect either of those situations and turn off the power.
+Nick Sayer Good comments, thanks for pointing out those issues. How would you detect stuck relay? A stuck relay could be logically disconnected by means of a MOSFET or similar semiconductor power device, such as IGBJT. The issues you point out are important, but aren'tt a deal-killer for me, as there are workarounds for all these problems.. E.G., changing connector types isn't a big deal. GFCI is pretty easy to add in as well!
+J Bishop The way UL wants you to detect a stuck relay is to detect if there is any voltage between either load side terminal of the relay and ground. It turns out that this is not very different from the ground continuity monitor test they want you to do. In other words, it's an error if there is no potential from at least one load terminal to ground when the relay is supposed to be closed (bad ground), and it's an error if there is any potential from either load terminal to ground when the relay is supposed to be open (stuck relay). Of course, this test involves intentionally leaking current from hot to ground, so it's not at all trivial to implement. My designs use an S1M diode from each leg to a common cathode terminal going to a 150K fusible resistor, a 1 mA current limit, the LED of an opto-isolator, and then ground. Even with all that, it's hard to get it exactly the way UL wants it. They want the threshold to be 100 ohms per volt - so 12K for L1 or 24K for L2. Detecting at that level is really hard when you're talking about limiting a 120 or 240 volt signal to 1 mA.
+J Bishop Oh, and the MOSFET getting stuck isn't the issue. A stuck relay usually means that high current has welded the contacts closed. That can happen if something shorts one or both hot lines out. It takes a lot of current and a (relatively) long time for a 40A circuit breaker to open, and in the meantime...
Nick Sayer OK, I think I see now what you are referring to as "stuck relay"! You mention your own designs, do you build charge controllers (EV chargers) for business?
+J Bishop No, I actually do it for fun (I know, right?). I do sell my boards online, but it's a hobby rather than a livelihood. My proudest achievement is the J1772 Hydra. It was the world's first two-headed EVSE (two headed meaning two J1772 plugs on a single input power circuit - not like some commercial units that just put two EVSEs in one chassis).
Hey ! I have a Dell Poweredge 2950 but sadly i dont have any harddrive trays. I was wondering if you could figure out the dimensions of the tray so i can print it off on a 3d printer. or, if you can could you make me a file so i can print it off ? Thanks !
Have you done anymore with this project? I'd like to figure this out , however some of your terminology is over my head.:( However, if it is broke down I can put it together.
Congrats! Very nice EVSE. I was considering building my own Arduino based EVSE but eventually went the Open-EVSE route, mainly because of lack of time. Yours looks very good too. Keep up the good work!
Bruno, the pcb's were just purchased on ebay. If you go on ebay and search for pcb manufacturing, you will find many services for sale and look for one that meets your requirements. I would highly recommend this over an expensive service if its just some small project your working on. You can buy them really cheap from china or a little more pricey to be made in USA.
Hey Jacob
I'm thinking of building my own level 3 dc fast charger for my final year engineering project.
Can you make a video on it and guide me, please.
Thank you
I would be interested in developing my own EV charger. Do you have a list of parts/vendors and instructions on how to create one?
Just wanted to say that it's awesome that you made this and are looking to help others. I'm still in the dreaming/research phase of getting an EV. I need a minimum 100 miles of real world (a/c or heat on) range or a Model S closer to half price to consider it.
For a 30A draw you need a 40A circuit... running at 100% for the extended time a car charger draws will overheat the breaker. For a 30A breaker the max continuous draw is 24A.
Not just the breaker. He needs to run 8 gauge wire to pull 30 ams. As you state 24amp max.
Um no your wrong a 30A breaker will supply 30A all day every day because that's it's max continuous rating... also 10AWG or 6mm2 is the correct size cable too
@@rjac001 It will work, but it's against code. It's legal for a non continuous loads. But for continuous loads 3 hours or longer the 80% rule applies. 210.19(A)(1).
Jason Kates The circuit breaker is only there to protect the cable, the 10 gauge wire is rated at 32A continuously and so there’s no risk of damage or fire to the cable, also it’s a fast charger so I doubt it will be delivering maximum current for very long
@@rjac001 Have you looked up 210.19(A)(1). I agree it's likely to be very safe. It just doesn't make code.
This awesome a lot of good information! Great work!
Excellent introduction, looking forward to seeing the schematics and the Arduino code
Excellent video. Explains the charging process quite well. Thanks.
Finally! I've been looking for this particular video for a week now. This is encouraging. If you have a schematic video, I don't know yet, but this explanation was great!
Please continue to make videos about this topic, I will be so thankful towards you sir. :)
Jacob, This is a really awesome project! I currently have a 3.3kWh charger and would like to move up to a 6.6 kWh charger. I'd love to build a charger that had a timer so that it only charged to 80%. This project rocks! Ready to start when you are.
I would be interested in developing my own EV charger. Do you have a list of parts/vendors and instructions on how to create one?
It would be nice to be able to buy just the finished control board and then adding the other less sensitive components to it, like relays, power supply, etc. It would make building one of these chargers an order of magnitude easier.
Great idea on open source. I see a Jordi Munoz or a Chris Anderson here. Who knows it can regulate the charging industry mate. Keep doing what you do and in future once you make a name for yourself,, you can just settle into a reliable hardware company like netgate does for pfsense. Keep up the good work and sure buddy you have got the brains to make your hobby work. Do post the project on UA-cam so you will get a community.... I will be sure in it
Excellent bro
I hope you carried on with this project. I would definitely be interested in buying from you.
This will be great when you are combining 2 120v outlets and use one of these to regulate the current.
nice job! love to figure things like this out,but in nursing school so busy busy I would like to put one with a plug into 220 outlet Campground etc
michael patterson my 2014 Smart has the same ESVE. I've been running it on 240 volts. Same with my Chevy Volt. I think they built them 120/240 for USA/Europe/Asia. I just made a 120 to 240 adapter.
Fantastic!!! PLEEEEEASE share schematics and code (if no code available, just the logic and values to input and output. Thanks!!!
Cool. Think I'll make one for my van and carry it in the back with a generator
of course I'm interested! I'm riveted and would love to see your behind the scenes build and coding. I understand your time is valuable but I would love to build one similar even though I like the juicebox 40 there is nothing like doing it yourself for control and comprehension of the technology. Sorry to request you work more to show how you coded your arduino it's just really well done and I know I could not do this without some guidance, I don't mean to seem unappreciative of it. Thank you for making this video I am grateful
Hi Jacob .... very well done video, long time back I used to do projects with micro-controllers, this was a good refresher. I bought prius prime and it came with a 110V cable. I saw another video on youtube where it says you use NEMA 10-30 to 5-20 converter and you can use same cable that came with Car to charge at 240V. Do you see any issues using it 110V cable that Toyota provided to use with 240V ? BTW have you assembled the PCB that you shoed towards the end?
very cool.I like your attitude. Keep up the good work.
very impressive.
Great job Jacob, I wonder if you can come up with a portable DC charger project.
Open source it. Then you could offer customers a range of choices from just the plans, to key parts, to a full kit, to a built unit.
Jacob, I am a retired EE. The control panel lacks an interlock safety that can easily be part of your key lock like a lock/service and run (easily just a 12VDC shut off). I don't know if your software uses a sense circuit before it sends 240VDC to charge your FIAT 500 EV.
BTW, back in the late 60's I had a FIAT 600D 1.1 litre gas engine. It was a suicide car (backward opening doors, etc. The new FIAT 500s are a class above those FIATs.
There is no need for that as the relay never closes till the vehicle is connected. Because I built this charger for myself it wouldn't be necessary to add an interlock to shut off the power when the door is opened. The voltage is 240VAC not DC but that doesn't matter much. Why would an interlock be necessary?
Very nice!
Set up a patreon and make this opensource. You could sell diy kits on ebay. One kit option could be just the arduino with sw, relays, pcb. Often DIYers have auto ranging 12V power supplies lying arround and the bulky heavy stuff can be sourced locally. Also using github allows collaboration and sw vetting and improvements. Kick starter is unnecessarily expensive. Use PayPal which gives buyer protection. OSH park does low volume pcb cheaply.
Now we need to make CCS chargers for home
Very nice project
Thank you
very nice and informative.
thanks for the video
Hello! Very nice video, everything well explained! It's been 5 year since you made the video. Do you still have this project traceback? I want to build one.Do you still have the data? Pcb file? Code line? Parts list?
Thank you in advance!
Love the video. Would love to chat. Have you built a bidirectional charger?
Hello Jacob, Thanks for the video. It is informative and helpful. I don't know if you have made any chargers or kits to sell but I would be interested. I like how you can vary the charge and how you built in those capabilities.
What is your budget and how many kw?
hey jacob - you should add a amp meter to the charger showing how much power the car is using - giving an indication on the battery charge level without having to go into the car and check!? - also do you have solar on your roof? - it would be an awasome addition - even if you were to use some Ebay solar panels and the Ebay micro Grid Tie inverters - they work alright aslong as if its rated for 500w you only put 400w thru it!
looks really great .use the basic principle of the EV charger，but there maybe a issue about the TYPE B RCCB or something breaker for the safe，hope the upper level have that breaker. and i come from a EV charger company which form China.
Make a video on level 3 dc fast chargers.
most fast chargers are 300V-480V or 3-phase lower voltages. Not available at a house easily. You need lots of extra equipment beyond this.
@@edwardruiz8920 except that every solar system on every house produces power at 500v
@@chris2pherrea that's not true for microinverters or power optimizers. A typical central system varies from as little 250V up to 1000V on the DC side at a residence. The Tesla powerwall operates around 400V for the purposes of charging Tesla EV cars through solar sources. The output is usually single phase 240VAC.
@@edwardruiz8920 Right, but as I have the option to install a new system on my house as 25Kw, I can choose to make them 500v strings, and could them use them directly into the DC charge port of my leaf ??
Impressionnant. Un travail formidable. Même en kit a monter soit même, ca serait cool.
Futur proprio d'un Fiat 500e
Isn't the charger itself actually in the car and this is simply a control circuit for the charger input?
Yes, its main job is to tell the car the max amperage of the supply circuit and to turn power on and off when the car asks.
Have you ever done a Solar Panel(s) to j1772? For portable charging applications.
you should make kits to sell with full hookup instructions
Hey Jacob,
I would be interested in developing my own EV charger. Do you have a list of parts/vendors and instructions on how to create one?
Thanks!
Wonderful video, thank you for making it. You should make this open source.
So let me get this straight. I'm new to all of this. So the charger (AC to DC conversion) is really located in the car, why do they call the thing they call a charger for $500 to $1,000? Seems to me it's not a charger but a micro controller to control the amount of AC being delivered to the charger in the car.
When you refuse the current being delivered tot he batteries are you just cycling the power relay to reduce the amperage/wattage? If so, seems to me the relay contacts would burn out in no time.
Any idea why they did not put all of the charger circuitry into the car? So to charge it, all one would have to do is use an extension cord and plug into a 120vac or 220vac outlet?
I made a series of videos explaining how all that works in much greater detail and actually show how to make one. To limit current it is not the power relay but rather the charging unit in the car regulates the power electronics within it to decrease the current.
***** That makes sense. So what's the purpose of the external $500-$1,000 "charger" circuitry if the charger is already in the car?
Why not use a 120 v or 240 v extension cord to the charger in the car? What am I missing?
Can you provide the links to your videos? Thanks for making them.
I explain it in my first video about how to make the charger. My fit charger video has nothing but details about this charging standard and how it works. The primary purpose is to de-energize connectors until the car is ready to charge and also to tell the car how much power the specific charging station it is plugged into can supply.
It a very good idea. I am interested to make my own EV Charging Station. Could you give me more detail about the component you used and the coding of Arduino. Thank you.
And thanks for the great video!
Great video, great controller, especially the feature of regulating the charging current. Did you ever sell this kit ?
Badass
Hi. Nicely explained.
Is the PCB available to buy from you?? If so let me to know
I would like to try and make the one you have on the PCB at the end of your video. Do you have the schematic or the board layout, I would get one made and start playing with it to learn more. Great video thanks
Sir can you put a detailed vedio about all its schematics and coding as quick as possible, please
Awesome video. Just got a 2014 spark ev. I wonder what the max amps in 240volt charge mode my car would draw? As Im just learning the cars have onboard chargers that limit the max amp charge, so getting the biggest amp 240 charger might be a waste of money if your car won't use the power. But I'm looking to make my own charger and help others make there ev,s more affordable here in New Orleans its the oil mans land.
very good job, i am interesting in making charger like that if you can help me with more details and diagram, i hope you have the time to help.awesome work
I would really like to see all of the code and how to build one of these chargers in detail. Thank Jacob
Jacob, is this an AC charger or DC fast charger?fast forward to 2021..do u have Schematic diagram of your design? Can I use arduino uno?
Hi Jacob i m interested to know more about it like how to use this PCB board and build the components. or if you have a kit or if you have list of items that we have to solder on this PCB board.
I'm thinking of getting my own 500e to zip around in and mod. I'll definitely be building one of these as part of that. Do you still have your 500e? Did you do anything else to it?
Awesome! Subbed!
Very nice Project. I would like to buy from you the charger , if it's for sale. Just let me know and we have a deal. Thank you
I'd LOVE to learn how to build an EV Charging module. When can we expect a vid that explains the process?
Recardo Poole I have been very busy recently with school but hope to get some new videos up soon. That video is on my list but will be a longer video to produce. subscribe to see it when it does come out. I hope to get started on it soon.
Cool. Nice video. Learned a lot. How can I reach out to get one of kit?
I need to make one!
Superb project I need the product prototype or if possible share the circuit for me in India
I would like to know if you are able to build a charging station that is solar powered. My idea is of solar panels and/or wind turbines that charge a battery bank. That battery bank can then be used to charge your electric car. This way an electric car owner can have their battery bank charged while they are at work during the day. When they get home they can transfer that stored electric power onto their car. Let me know.
excellent Job!!!!!!!!
Pls can you give me more info how to fix it ? I have an opel ampera and I need to make one charger!
Hello sir, could you please tell me what ist the type of the power relay that you have used.
thanks in advance
hay jaacob,
i was also planing to make my charger, can you please upload a circuit diagram
You can’t copy the code off your other Arduino that’s in use? Yeah, I’ve wondered why OpenEVSE is so expensive. It must have to do with regulatory compliance and certifications or something.
What's the danger in just plugging a Nema directly to 240v from a solar inverter.
J Bishop has got it right. I like your LCD Display, and controllable AMP's and Wattage. Please post a Website or Email for communication.
Awesome... I'm looking to buy a wallbox for my e-golf ...but this video might turnme towards DIY :P hmmm
make it, 3D print it, sell it.
Curious why you didn’t go with a heavier duty solid state relay? How many amps are you drawing?
hey ,
what happens if we use 120v instead of 230 v in these same circuit.
Will the car try to take 30A.
Remember we don't change anything in the circuit only the input voltage.
Okay, this is way out in left field coming from a complete novice . I'm building a camper van to go cross country. I'm hoping to use a Tesla model 3 module (slab) as my house battery. Solar will likely not be able to keep up with my power needs.
What would it take to be able to use EV power station to top off my battery along the way.
0:55 A DIY EV Charger from $200 of parts?
Ummm... a Feyree 7KW charger costs less than $200 . . .
But of course THIS VIDEO is about being able to make one.
really interresting! Can i have your arduino code, list of things and the circuit plan please?
Although I watched this video lately but i think you're right
what i realised is that it's not a charger rather a monitor
i have a problem that I would like to ask you about
i bought a GE durastation level 2 charger 60hz and i took it outside to Jordan where the 240v are one phase and one neutral and not like it's in the states, also the hz is 50 not 60
it didn't work but i could test it to see the problem which was the hz thing.
I wonder if you could help me to convert the charger from 60hz to 50hz
thanks.
Have you made Video Series.
Where did you printed those prototype PCBs?
I'm looking for cheap places to try make my first PCB.
Thanks.
where do yoou install the Prox detection wire cause My dostar cable has a 5th wire as well as the control pilot.
Damion Litrel you should not have to hook up that wire all the proximity signaling is done between the car and the resistor network in the connector handle.
Also, though that relay is rated for 30A, the QD terminals are not. Fortunately your car is not pulling a full 30A, but if it were, those QD terminals would overheat. I speak from experience.
+Nick Sayer It looks like he soldered and shrinkwrapped the connections, that should be good enough for 30 Amps!
+J Bishop Yeah, no. Been there, done that.
Nick Sayer If the relay is rated for 30 Amps how can the connections on the relay not be 30 A?
+J Bishop 30A in general does not mean 30A continuous current for an unlimited time. In general, unless the component specifically says that it's rated for 30A EVSE or continuous duty, you need to derate it by 20% when used for continuous duty service.
I haven't ever found QD terminals that work long-term at more than 24A. And even getting them to work at 24A requires using a ratcheting crimping tool, and using it *properly* and with very high quality terminals. The ones I use were something like 75¢ each in Q:100 from DigiKey. The crappy ones you get from Home Depot are no good. And you don't want to solder crimp terminals. Solder actually doesn't conduct nearly as well as copper does, and if you do the math, a resistance of a mere tenth of an ohm at 30A will dissipate 90W of power!
Nick Sayer I didn't know that either. Are you an engineer?
where people like me can get instructions to build the charger I drive the same car but takes too long to charge it with the level 1 charger that comes with the car, please can you publish a guide online?
Do you have a commercial project running on this or a later better design?Would you like one?My company is looking to get involved in the home market fast charge EV sector.Based in UK, but not a problem USA.Please advise status / interest.Thanks P Bentley MD
Hello Jacob, is this channel still being monitored and responded to?
Goddamit! Get yer fingers outta there! Making me nervous! 😳🫣
Can we connect ..looking for ppl who could create such chargers . Can discuss in detail when we connect
Hi Jacob . Did you get any of these boards available to buy? I'd love one (or more than one!) Ideally populated with components and the chip already coded. I can build the rest. How can I reach you?
Can you post the components/parts used? I would love to make one of these.
I'd be interested in learning more.. kit form ?
Hey Jacob, are you still monitoring this channel?
Make me a type 2 home charger and I’ll pay you to send it to uk
You left out some rather important safety checks that are required by the spec. There's no GFI, there's no stuck relay test or ground continuity monitoring. By itself, this EVSE is not unsafe, but if any of the faults occur that those checks are intended to detect, the result could be very hazardous. Imagine if the car had a ground fault and the ground connection from the car to the premises was not low impedance. The result would be that the entire frame of the car would be energized at 240 VAC. A proper EVSE would detect either of those situations and turn off the power.
+Nick Sayer Good comments, thanks for pointing out those issues.
How would you detect stuck relay?
A stuck relay could be logically disconnected by means of a MOSFET or similar semiconductor power device, such as IGBJT.
The issues you point out are important, but aren'tt a deal-killer for me, as there are workarounds for all these problems.. E.G., changing connector types isn't a big deal.
GFCI is pretty easy to add in as well!
+J Bishop The way UL wants you to detect a stuck relay is to detect if there is any voltage between either load side terminal of the relay and ground. It turns out that this is not very different from the ground continuity monitor test they want you to do. In other words, it's an error if there is no potential from at least one load terminal to ground when the relay is supposed to be closed (bad ground), and it's an error if there is any potential from either load terminal to ground when the relay is supposed to be open (stuck relay). Of course, this test involves intentionally leaking current from hot to ground, so it's not at all trivial to implement. My designs use an S1M diode from each leg to a common cathode terminal going to a 150K fusible resistor, a 1 mA current limit, the LED of an opto-isolator, and then ground.
Even with all that, it's hard to get it exactly the way UL wants it. They want the threshold to be 100 ohms per volt - so 12K for L1 or 24K for L2. Detecting at that level is really hard when you're talking about limiting a 120 or 240 volt signal to 1 mA.
+J Bishop Oh, and the MOSFET getting stuck isn't the issue. A stuck relay usually means that high current has welded the contacts closed. That can happen if something shorts one or both hot lines out. It takes a lot of current and a (relatively) long time for a 40A circuit breaker to open, and in the meantime...
Nick Sayer OK, I think I see now what you are referring to as "stuck relay"!
You mention your own designs, do you build charge controllers (EV chargers) for business?
+J Bishop No, I actually do it for fun (I know, right?). I do sell my boards online, but it's a hobby rather than a livelihood. My proudest achievement is the J1772 Hydra. It was the world's first two-headed EVSE (two headed meaning two J1772 plugs on a single input power circuit - not like some commercial units that just put two EVSEs in one chassis).
Hey ! I have a Dell Poweredge 2950 but sadly i dont have any harddrive trays. I was wondering if you could figure out the dimensions of the tray so i can print it off on a 3d printer. or, if you can could you make me a file so i can print it off ? Thanks !
Would love to build one. Will keep monitoring, can I get the PCB layout so I can get board made? Thanks John
Sorry I no longer have the board layout files I made them many years ago but I recently made a series of videos on how to build one of these chargers.
What is the chip part number you used for the micro controller. Thanks
Im speechless 300 bucks gets a certified level 2 charger why?
do you have the electronic board datasheet and the compenant number thank you
Is it possible to make a fast charger and install it in home ?
Have you done anymore with this project? I'd like to figure this out , however some of your terminology is over my head.:( However, if it is broke down I can put it together.
"Hot phase"? thats a new one