Control Arm Fabrication... Wratchet Rear Suspension Build #6
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2025
- Hey Guys,
In this video I show you some of the steps involved in putting together and welding up the rear lower control arm for Wratchet.
Here is a link to my shared folder if you need anything in it.
drive.google.c...
Doug is like the Norm Abrams of Buggy Builds. Who Agrees?😊
I agree 100% 😉😁
Loved the shop tour on the last video, i'm watching this video and organizing garage at same time, lol, diggin the fab work
Thanks Mike!
As we say in Australia..."Bloody be-yoo-dy, maaaaaate!"
Enjoying the progress of this build Doug.
Thanks Mate!
Appreciate the comment.
Very nice.
A "coin slot" punch and die would lend itself well for the rosset welds on the internal webbing.
Great video. I find myself trying to be more precise when fabbing because of your videos.
That's a great idea, I'll check to see if they offer that for my punch. 👍
Once again, great work and great video. Thanks for sharing!!!
Thanks!
Lookin Good,,,,that Laser cutting sure does a nice job, ..
It does, it's so clean and straight. Gotta weight it against the cost, but it's nice!
@@DougBugBuilder Talked to "Bend Tech" about you using their Product....see if it goes anywhere. Good Luck!.
@@DJ-yp4kc Thanks, appreciate the support!
I love to see the attention to quality you put in your build!
Thanks!
Very nice piece... everything in order and precise!... Congrats Doug!... Thank you for sharing it!...
Thanks!
Amazing work. The care you take to build an accurate part is impressive. You should be a teacher, you're so far from a non-professional builder !
Thanks, I should reach out to some local schools to see if I can help. That would probably be fun.
Appreciate the comment.
B...E...A...utiful. I would definitely be proud of that. Very nice MIG and TIG work. I may be a slight bit jelly.
Thanks buddy!
I've seen a lot of off road arms with inside bracing, they slot the out side plates so they can weld the bracing, some companies also put tabs or ears on the internal bracing for locating and for the welding thru the slots. Your rosettes work too, but Something to think about for the next version since you have it in CAD.
Thanks for the idea, I'll see if I can get a slot die for my punch. 👍
Wow! Wish I had a 1/4 of your skill and ability....awesome work
Thanks!
Excellent fabrication Doug. See that you are wearing a hoodie, is some what chilli. Ian in G.B
Hello Ian, It's been about -6 to 4deg C here lately. And my garage is not insulated yet. So it not terrible, but the hood keeps my brain warm.
Absolutely brilliant final product!
Thanks!
Haha bugs aren’t really my thing, but I really enjoy these videos. Good luck and keep up the excellent work.
Thanks buddy!
@@DougBugBuilder BTW, my comment was supposed to say Baja Bugs,,,,
Not Haha bugs. Lol
Looks awesome man! Cool to see it go from cad to finished piece.
Thanks!
Man that is awesome! Great job as always!
Thanks dude!
I like seeing how you use that piece to establish your bend starting points.
Yeah, only way I can get even close to the bend being where I want it.
@@DougBugBuilder No shame in that. I need to get better at using them with my round tubing benders.
That is a really nice piece of steel "art work" for sure
Thanks!
Definitely a work of art.
Thanks!
Beautiful work! Thanks for the video
Thanks buddy!
Holy crap that is some beefy stuff lol. Looks great man!
Thank you kind sir.
Definitely a labour of love. Nice work.
Yes! Thank you!
That is one badass control arm I love it
Thanks buddy!
G'day,
Kevin here from Australia.
I know what you mean after constructing something as intricate as you have it's a work of art.
But if it doesn't fit ratchet at least you'll have something awesome to hang on the wall. 😜
Q. I've got a patch to weld into the floor of my 63 beetle which type of weld would be best mig or tig. (I've yet to purchase either )
Anyhoo stay safe man and I'll be watching next week.
✌🏻 peace.
Hello Kevin,
This would be nice wall art. But most people would say, "what is that?" lol.
I don't like using Tig on thin sheet metal. I recommend you Mig it. Not flux core, hard to tack thin metal with those. Make sure it can Mig.
Then clean up the tacks with a grinder and you'll be good.
Stay safe. 👍
@@DougBugBuilder thanks man. ✌🏻
👏👏👏👏indescribable work ! 👏👏👏👏💯💯💯💯👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
P&O is the best!
Great job man, just curious why you decided to put a heim joint on that lower arm instead of a bushing
That heim allows me a little bit of tuning on the arm. If I decide I want a little bit of toe in or toe out I can make small adjustment with it. It's not necessary at all, but I do like the option to adjust things if needed.
@@DougBugBuilder Oh I see, thats a good idea man. Having the option to do that is great!
why no filler rod when tig welding?
With the pieces both being 1/8" and the laser cuts so straight I had lots of landing between pieces to draw together. So I cruised through the straights and only used filler at the ends near the uniballs and bushings for full strength. I know it sacrifices some strength, but they were coming together so much I don't think I lost much.
great work, i have a question, why did you chose to go with a double A arm in the rear instead of trailing arms?
Well, the real answer is that I like A Arms better. I'm not saying one or the other is better.... I'm just saying myself I prefer A Arms.
But mainly because A Arms travel in the same plane as the axle, so I think that works better for travel and axle geometry.
@@DougBugBuilder thank you
One down one to go. Haha. Cool video man, learning alot on how much goes into these rad machines. I noticed you weren't mostly using filler rod why is that?
Excellent question. First let me state that if I did use filler rod on it all the entire arm would be a little bit stronger. However, this pickled steel being laser cut was so straight and clean most of the edges they were just falling together and I was getting great penetration. So seeing that I decided adding filler along the edges wasn't needed. I only used filler in areas that I thought needed maximum strength.
But the short answer is I'm lazy. 😁
Perfection as always.
Thanks!
Are you leaving any kinda landing for weld with the sides or are they just flush to the top and bottom
The pieces only overlap enough for me to hold everything together. This gives me the most landing as possible.
Having them flush gives very little penetration. But by asking this question I can tell you already know this. 👍
@@DougBugBuilder yes I own a fab shop building 4x4 lol love you’re work man keep up the good work
Nice Work!
Thanks!
What are you bending your plate with?
This little bender here. It's perfect for pieces like this.
amzn.to/2N1dk9u
@@DougBugBuilder ah ok that's cool. Looked clean and precise! Doing a great job 😃
Just curious why you choose not to use filler rod?
The laser cut pieces were so clean and straight when I was putting them together I had a large ledge to draw the pieces together. So they fused really easy. So I decided that on the long straights I didn't need filler. Although not using filler will make those welds not as strong, I'm not worried about it. I used filler at the uniballs where I needed the most strength, but that's about it.
Excellent work Doug. Now that I have seen the extra stuff you put on I'll have to model it all :) What uniballs are you using?
They are 7/8" uniballs. I attached links as I know you like details. 😁
These are the uniballs www.kartek.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?&Store_Code=KT&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FKB-AIN14T770
And the cups www.kartek.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?&Store_Code=KT&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=KTK-9042
@@DougBugBuilder Awesome thanks Doug :)
Opa muito bom seus vídeos sou fã gosto muito de projetos assim também tenho uma oficina fabriquem uma gaiola 4x4 motor traseiro na dianteira e duplo A qual o grau de caster vc coloca nos seus projetos
Olá, obrigado pelas amáveis palavras. O rodízio é de 8 graus e o AOI é de 10 graus.
@@DougBugBuilder
Muito obrigado! Perguntei para vários sites aqui do Brasil mais ninguém me ajudou a minha gaiola está dando tranco no volante quando passo com uma das rodas num buraco tem 8 graus de kpi vou colocar caster era zero
Hey, can you tell me where to get the parts at? And what kind of steel do you use on your frame?
I get most of these parts at KarTek. www.kartek.com/
The base and where suspension connects is 1.5" x .095 DOM, everything else is ERW.
Great job. How come you didn’t use 4130 on the suspension?
The yard I go to and the company I get some parts laser cut from doesn't have chromoly. So I haven't gotten that serious yet. But I'll get there.
this looks very good! do you know how heavy the wishbone is?
It feels about 25-30lbs. It's got some weight to it, but for it's size it's not ridiculously heavy.
What is the weight of the arm?
Also, keep adding the doggos at the end, that's what all the good UA-cam channels do.
It probably weighs about 25-30lbs. It's not light but not bad for its size.
I'm trying to get the dogs in there more. 🐕
Thanks for the response. And take my advice on the doggos as atleast a closer.
Awesome stuff.
Is it ok to ask you a Ecm / wiring question via T?
Sure thing, hit me up.
Man I don’t want to be rude but should you be welding a main structure like a control arm with filler rod and not just fusing it together? I have worked in a fabrication shop as a welder and never would we ever fuse a structural piece and never mild steel. You can get away with fusing stainless at times but mild steel needs filler rod. I would think twice before I trusted them.
You're not being rude, you're calling me out on something I did that was a bit sketchy.
No good excuse why I didn't use filler. I guess I thought it would be strong enough because there is so much linear welding there. But at this point I wish I did use filler. I'll keep an eye on it.
But I appreciate the call out, I need it from time to time. 😁
@@DougBugBuilder best response you could give. Awesome of you not to get all rude. It’s just that when you fuse the corners like that they end up thinner the rest of the meterial which leaves a weak point. Also can’t wait to see you ripping in the car. Good luck finishing and enjoy the hard work when you’re done.
I too found it interesting that no filler rod was used, great way to question by the way, wasn't rude and was very informative.
Sick
Thanks!
next time put anti-seize on the slug before you put it in and put the C-clip in the groove to help transfer the heat from the cup to the slug
Interesting you say that. I heard that from someone else years ago. I always figured the anti-seize would just bake the slug in there. But hearing it again I'll give it a go.
Thanks for the tip!
Top top👍👏👏
✌ Thanks!
👽👍
Thanks! ✌
Like I always say. Air Time is expensive. It's such a battle between weight and strength.....
It's either to light or to heavy, it's never just right.
Any concern about rusting from the inside?
Not until you brought it up. ;-)
Actually didn't think about it. I think it's airtight. But if any water does get in there I doubt it could get out.
Maybe I'll add some holes on the bottom. Thanks for the head scratcher. 😁
First!
You earned it!
#when the rod end is the weakest link!
#hopefully.... 😁
first and last time watching so boring