I read the comments about all the bad things that can happen doing this. I looked at brush blade kits for my trimmer and found they were expensive and I wasn't sure I'd be that much safer. I had an old 7.25 inch circular saw blade and tried that. It was a plain metal blade so no issues with carbide teeth falling off. It was rated for 7500 rpm. My trimmer output 10,000 rpm with no string and about 7500 rpm with the string head loaded. Also I didn't run the trimmer at max. rpm. I experienced kick back running the trimmer left to right against thick trunks so I avoided that. Cutting right to left I was able to take down up to 3" trunks easily. This worked really well for honey suckle bushes, brambles, etc. Much easier than my previous method of using a chainsaw. Thanks for putting this out there.
@@snakeplissken3021 It's your legs ... shop for mobility products like a wheel chair when (it's not a matter of if) the blade regardless if it had carbide cutter soldered in place or is just a plain blade slings apart. They have a 3,000 to 3,500 blade tip speed, after that they are a hand grenade just waiting to go off ... both type will will sling apart, hitting a rock hidden in the grass will do the job quicker. A man from my home town killed his co-worker with a standard saw blade cutting small tree limbs. The blade flew apart and sliced the man to bits who was catching the limbs as they fell, Mr. Turlington had to live with the fact he killed someone that till the day he passed away.
Don't Do This ... I owned a mower shop over 40+ years. Standard circular saw blades are made to run at about 3,500 RPMS ... the Echo (sold hundredds of them) turns up on the PTO end upwards of 9,000+ RPMS ... a circular saw blade, especially those with carbide cutters WILL SLING ITSELF APART. One customer tried this and killed his helper in the late 1980's ... bottom line let the UA-cam fools have the blade come apart at ruin his health ... not yours.
Horrible idea! Just buy a blade that’s made for a trimmer. Even with a manufacturers blade, it can be nerve racking, but I had faith in Echo and their engineers.
Dang thank for this. I was going to try Harbor Freight to save 💰. I will Just use an official blade. Mine is electrical Ryobi and w try one like a Forester or Ryobi. 🙏 ..
I've done this for over two decades with the Echo 410U brush cutter. I take off the blade guard too which makes the job easier and I think safer. I've cut trees up to 6" down with it. I've cut 1000's of saplings down to the ground. Some of the carbide tips have come off so be aware. I only know this from looking at the blades after using them awhile. I've never had one hit me.
Same. I use cheap chinese 40 tooth discs with carbide tips and they're great. Excellent value for money. They cut grass, bushes and small trees. Only when tooth gets round then it doesn't want to cut wood, but still cuts tall grass...
@Christina R I have only seen Wisteria as vines. A method of getting rid of these plants is cutting a chunk about half way through the vine about 4 or 5 feet up. Coat that with full strength CrossBow. Keep on doing that every couple of days with a paint brush. You can use roundup but doesn't work as well. Once the vine show some real sickness, spray as much of the vine you can with a strong solution of Crossbow. About 6%. Be sure to add spreader to you mix. This works real well with poison oak and Ivy. This method kills the roots and all.
So, knowing that teeth come off, and knowing how fast that blade is spinning at the outer edge, you still think it's a good idea..........like I'm gonna trust your judgement.
Thank you. You just answered my question. I have several circular saw blades that I don't use, and don't want to spend more money on a "brush cutter" blade. So I am now going to try using my circular saw blades on my Echo trimmer!
I have cleared brush and grass with this on a large lot twice a year. Took me a week each time. I used the larger blade with 40 or 42 teeth. My grasscutter has a big yoke style handle. That helped imensly with the kickback. And it does. I cut brush as thick as my arm. I never had an accident and I was always by myself. You want to be very careful and never forget that with a sawblade on that end it's a very dangerous tool.
I use dedicated brushcutter blade for this. More convenient and with no doubt SAFER option. You can sharpen it and even bend align teeth on the spot in a minute! Mine is husqvarna scarlett, but I'm pretty sure there is same ones from other brands incl. echo too. So far I have managed to seriously damage only one of them by stucking in larger tree (it had a small crack near one of teeth)
In England we use these things called 'Chainsaws' for cutting down trees and pruning. You want to try one, they are much better than what you are doing there and don't ping off into the stratosphere slicing limbs as they go.
One consideration you didn't mention was a trimmer can reach speeds of 7,000 rpm's which exceeds the recommended rotational speed of that carbide blade and promote the carbide cutters to fly off.
@@DavidSmith-fr1uz I am sure you have, but the possibility of it happening is still there, so wear eye protection & maybe some high boot while using it just in case. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
@@alfredocuomo1546 And permanent disability or chronic pain for you, a family member or innocent passerby - of course, they will cease using that off label after that first remarkable accident.
Met someone who put a saw blade on a disc cutter, guess what it ran up his leg practically splitting it in two and it was the bolts through his leg and the scaffold surrounding that held the leg together. He by the way removed the guard to facilitate this idiotic action.
You are forgetting the gear reduction in the "foot" of the string trimmer, so 2/3 of 7,000 is 4,620. I've done this too - you're not supposed to have a trimmer come to an abrupt stop from full throttle. Good way to ruin parts.
While living 33 years in the high desert of central Nevada I ran 10 inch saw blades on my trimmer to keep the sage brush under control. Never had a problem, but you had to watch for any type of kick out of the blade every now and then..
When I worked clearing/brushing trails around the Condon District, MT we had brush saws that were purpose made for cutting brush/saplings somewhat similar in build. But again, they were specifically designed for the purpose.
Happy to use a circular saw blade in a very dodgy practice that could cause shrapnel from too high a rpm, or even cutting off a limb, but makes sure to use earplugs incase his hearing is damaged. Got to love this.
Hi I have a STIHL FS-40 string weed 'whacker'. Took a 5/8 deep socket (the drive nut, on the trimmer, is this size) and ground down the socket, on that nut end, so as not to bind with housing mount of the wacker drive) . Then, centred an old 7 1/4 inch blade onto the other end, welded 'er up. Belt sanded it down some, and used a spacer nut, and washer, then screwed nut on drive threads. Cuts like a damn, just gotta balance it a bit more. Next project, is maybe a 10 inch blade, same idea. BE SURE the socket fits snugly on the drive-end.
6:00 You might, consider rotating the guard, about 3 inches more clockwise; this will help you gain CONTROL of the saw. Having it 'pull toward you '' allows for ALOT BETTER CONTROL. HAVE the branches, on the right side, as blade is controlled by your body weight.
As a landscaper with my own small business.. I can tell you from personal experience that this is one of the dumbest things you can do. I used that chainsaw chain for the Stihl weed eater head replacement and I had to leave a customers yard half way done because I needed some stitches
I used one a long time ago, it was made for cutting brush and had a much bigger blade, I told everybody on my crew to stay at least 20 feet or more away from me when I was using it, because if it hit something and kicked out, they could end up a foot shorter in a hurry.
I did this with my Stihl a few years back (still do, pun intended 😜). Used an old dewalt 10” and festool 7 1/4” blade at different times. Works brilliantly for bamboo but because there’s more teeth, it can bog down on thick cuts, as you experienced too. You need to watch for kick back as you also showed happening. The Stihl doesn’t use a cotter pin though as the thread is reversed so that the spinning action will tighten the bolt. Thanks for the video.
I bought a blade built for this purpose. It absolutely destroyed the clutch in my Troybilt. I'm talking shredded springs, warped "pressure plate", fragged one of the actual clutches.
Have used 10 inch blades before on week whackers, but they were plywood blades. I ground off every other tooth so it wouldn't "Load-Up" when cutting green wood. Cuts through 2-1/4" green saplings like butter, but it takes longer (and it's a LOT safer, too!).
Thanks for your reply ! I'm looking at this thinking a 10" blade would fit and Yup ! someone already did it. My thoughts, are to use a less aggressive blade as well. WISH ME LUCK to keep at least ONE leg !! I've got one ear, one eye and 9 fingers. My wife calls me lucky !! LOL !! Just kidding, these tools are NO JOKE. Stay safe my friend !
Been doing this for years. Old, dull circular saw blades make great brush cutters on the weed whacker. I still have all my extremities. Fingers, toes, wrists and ankles still all intact. Taking the guard off gives a deeper cutting capacity, but more dangerous. Use your own judgment. Be safe. Ill be trying the 10 inch blade off my table saw when it gets to dull for woodworking. If you’re an idiot, don’t do this. You might hurt yourself.
Hi, Dan. i found that using the guqrd, as a stabilizier, works good. i always have the 'branch' (etc) being cut, on the 3 pm side of the clockwise spinning blade; using the guard as a type of '' backstop ''. The blade turning, always pulls you away, from the branch. Alot more control, rather than having it 'push' you away.
I recently found a two-pack of cheap 7.25” circular saw blades on sale at the home center. These were cheap, low quality blades, but they were carbide tipped. I bought them just for the weed whacker. Sharper than anything I had ever used on the weed whacker. First time out and I got a little to close to my chain link fence. I broke off two of the carbide teeth, and cut right through two of chain link wires. I add this simply as a warning. That saw blade went through chain link in an instant. It’ll go through flesh and bone faster than that. Be safe!
I did this to my Ryobi 40volt trimmer. My teeth are much closer and I use a 6inch handheld chainsaw to gut any thing over 2 inches, but my Ryobi whacks right through smaller trees, takes down brush like it's nothing. Way better then those 3 bladed brush blades. Adding my own upgrade (just a blade) saved me over $100 and still getting a 3 blade brush cutter.
I would worry the weed eater motor is spinning faster than what the manufacture recommends. The blade could fail causing a lot of damage and or injuries.
The teeth on the circular saw blade have quite a bit more rake than those on the Echo blade. (The "rake" is the amount of hook on the teeth.) More rake means that the blade will grab & pull more. This doesn't mean that it's unusable, just that it will be harder to control. This can be seen in the video. If you're using a non-carbide circular saw blade the teeth can be re-ground to have less rake, but it might not be worth the trouble.
MAKE sure, whatever number of teeth on your blade, THAT ALWAYS HAVE AT LEAST 3 TEETH, BITING INTO WHATEVER NEEDS TO BE SAWED. THIS APPLIES TO ALL SAWS.....ANY FORM, SIZE AND TYPE ! examples: 24 teeth, for large branches, trees. 32 for smaller stuff, and smaller ones, for even just large weeds. This makes sure, that the teeth, don't '' lock / grab and hold '' the item, being sawed.
You should use a blade with a negative hook, they don't pull into the cut. All of the non ferrous metal cutting blades have a negative hook and work great.
I did the same thing with the same kit and the same trimmer. After about a year I removed the guard, it’s gets caught up a lot. I tried bigger blades, but the trimmer lacks power for that and if you use a bigger trimmer the weight becomes an issue. This thing works great. We have a plethora of azaleas on the property and they spread like mad. This tool beats everything I have tries when it comes to cleaning them up for the mowers to get close. It’s fun too.
I can give you a suggestion on using a saw blade. I have been experimenting with all sorts of setups for years. First, don’t use a grass trimmer, use an edger. You take a standard edger blade and weld two saw blade teeth on each end of the edger blade. You get more ripping action with that setup. I purchased a commercial Echo edger with a metal guard. I cut all kinds of surface roots in the ground. Really works great. I have been doing this for years. Thanks.
I have a cordless strimmer that takes blades with 10 millimetre hole, do i require a flange put on first with other parts ive got to put 20 millimetre hole blade on ?
Thanks for a good vid. Only thing I can think of not to use a carbide tipped blade. Since you are moving the blade around stuff, like small rocks you could fling off one of the tips at a very high speed. Other that that, cheap way to go.
I've used 24 tooth carbide tip for over 30 years never a problem, had a lot of rocks stuck in my shins over the year don't see a tip hitting any harder than a rock may have had a few I thought were rocks. got good at not hitting rocks or chain link fences though. wouldn't really recommend any blade for a novice.
I have a Homelite st-200 . It is a string trimmer with a blower attachments and an includes guard for the 9" circular saw blade. It wiIl cut down 3-1/2"+ trees. I use the saw blade for saplings and triarc blade for big weeds and small trees. It's 30 years old and I still use it lots.
A 12 inch miter saw blade works great. Clears a pretty big area in one pass since its so big and you can get them with carbide teeth and a big range in the amount of teeth you can get. They already have the perfect arbor for most stihl trimmers too.
@@scottgelow6238I don't want to squat or bend for a couple of hours at a time with a heavy chainsaw. I have used this method for years without a problem. I have even accidentally hit T posts and it didn't destroy the blade. Everyday we take chances with our lives.
A 12" on a trimmer? Yeah, most people even with a decent mid-range are going to be putting immense strain on the motor, trans and powered 'rod' with a 10" blade. Anyone with an average-mid grade trimmer should stick with a 7" circular blade. And if you're going to take advice from the internet, take it from someone who's actually done this. Use a cheap, all-steel blade, that means no carbide. Although soldered/brazed on, those carbide teeth will come off, and they'll make a nice little hole in you especially when hitting a rock, concrete or pipe/fencing.
Glad to find this information. The plastic brush flails that come with the cordless Ryobi string trimmer are useless, so I'm working out how to fit a circular saw blade on the edger that came with it. Haven't yet gotten the blade to stay centered so I can't use it, for fear of destroying the bearings.
Stihl do a range of blades now, some with chisel teeth and some carbide tipped ones. I saw a video before of a guy using one of them chisel tooth ones and it went through what looked like a 3 or 4 inch branch in a fraction of a second without kicking back at all. I have a Kawasaki strimmer but I only buy Stihl stuff and it fits. My bolt doesn't have a hole for a cotter pin and I have had a blade go loose on me, but it's never come off, it just stops turning. I guess you don't have to buy Echo stuff just for an Echo strimmer as long as it fits. It might be that a normal mitre saw blade might shatter if it got forced sideways in a cut, I don't know. I got the Stihl 8 tooth blade, but only use it for tall grass and thick weeds, but it does go blunt after a while. I also got the scratcher blade with lots of small teeth, which is handy, but does jam and kickback on anything thicker then a finger, but it's gone really blunt now after cutting down a few blackthorn (prunus spinosa) suckers which are really hard wood and grow like weeds here in the UK.
Zip tie the trigger down. But I wouldn’t recommend it with a circular saw blade on there. If it grabs into something it could pull out of your hands. Then you have a spinning rogue saw blade flying around you. I’d avoid that one.
@Burl Rodgers@@extremedrivr Bent Shaft trimmers use a "spring" like core to drive the line-head because it must bend. So it is weak. RPM can exceed 10,000 some run at 12000 - spped of gasoline motor. Straight Shaft Brush Cutter have a straight solid core to drive a reduction gear. So the head RPM is slower to increase torque to allow use of metal blade. Metal Brush Cutting Blade are steel only and have max RPM of 10,000. Circular Saw blade have lower max RPM because "brazed-on" Tunsten Carbide teeth can break off at very high RPM and hurt someone.
MAKE sure, whatever number of teeth on your blade, THAT ALWAYS HAVE AT LEAST 3 TEETH, BITING INTO WHATEVER NEEDS TO BE SAWED. THIS APPLIES TO ALL SAWS.....ANY FORM, SIZE AND TYPE ! examples: 24 teeth, for large branches, trees. 32 for smaller stuff, and smaller ones, for even just large weeds. This makes sure, that the teeth, don't '' lock / grab and hold '' the item, being sawed.
Very nice. I would suggest integrating something to prevent the end from kicking which can lead to an injury. Also, suggest not using carbide tipped blade since carbide is brittle and can chip. You can always hand file plain steel blades.
Nah. I've used carbide saw blades for years with no problems. Steel blades are more dangerous in my experience because chunks can break and be thrown off. I know this for certain. And no as far as the end kicking. Yeah, it will kick if you're back cutting. Which I do. Again, no problem. You just have to practice, go in slowly, and if it does kick have it gripped so the saw can kick out easily. I've had numerous kick backs and didn't remotely have a chance of injury. You can break the head gear if you have a cheap saw though.
Been doing that for 40 years, never used a guard on a weedeater with string or blade. The sweet spot to avoid kickback is 9 to 12 and 3 to 6 also guard off gives you more blade width and better control and visibility, thick boots, long pants and eye protection, gloves help also for the occasional flying branch. also watch cutting 2" or bigger already cut branches they can fly back at you. Cut all briars, vines and rose bushes with the new blade first.
I haven’t read all the comments but would like to say that if that blade shatters I wouldn’t like to be in the vicinity. Not being negative, just super cautious, take care ppl ✌️🌻
Been doing this for a long time. When you have miles of fencing you have to trim it makes it a lot faster just by not having to refill the spool all the time.
you can get a circular blade that's made specially for that. It has a tooth profile similar to a chainsaw that can be sharpened with a regular chainsaw file. It's a solid blade, not one of those sketchy carving ones sold for an angle grinder.
I have a DeWalt string trimmer. I removed the string trimmer head in order to put on a saw blade, but the saw blade hole is way bigger than the string trimmer threaded shaft. I can't find an adapter
No, bent shaft trimmers use something like a speedometer cable, very thin and flexible, straight shaft use a straight steel shaft which is much stronger
I would not use a small blade on saplings... The best (slow) method is the chain-n-tractor complete removal method, but a quick way is to use a Stihl electric chainsaw. (pull or cut - you have the same disposal issue) I run two Stihl trimmers: the one related to your posting has a 10" x 40-tooth blade. I have removed the guard. This blade dispenses with tall grasses, woody weeds, etc. I used all sorts of string trimmers on a 400' frontage drainage ditch over the 35yrs I have had this place - the blade works best. There is one extra trick when standing atop the ditch: adding a Darwin's Grip. Without bending more than my knees, I can sweep this blade like a scythe and flip a glob of weeds up onto the bank in one motion. Maybe one out of 8 times I have to stop and pull out a glob ...but, this combo is the best! At 79 I have had plenty of practice. Cheers. Jim
Stihl makes about three different types of brush blades for their timmers. Just get the right tool. The saw blade they make is sharpened with the same round file you use for your saw.
Don't the manufacturer recommend their harness anytime using blades? Might check safety recommendations 🤔 Thanks as I'm cutting dried out fall weeds cleaning garden. Thanks and great video
I used 9 3/4 inch blade on mine and used a cup spacer on the bottom of the blade to keep it clear of the ground . Get to full revs before starting the cut and ease back when the revs start to drop .
I have been using this trick for over 15 years. Much cheaper than bush blades.Also metal cutoff blades work good for cutting metal fence or hawg wire. Just be careful about kickback.And. wood chips flying.
This works really well i use a stihl fs 85 brush cutter with a 9 inch tunkstin tip saw blade note you have to file out the inner hole about .5 mm to make it fitt nice but works way better on tee tree thick bush it does flick a lot of shit out i wear chain saw chaps and glasses never had a blade brake and done it for years .
I bought one of those circular Steel wire cutter's, but not only was there no nuts or washer's provided. the Spool & and rear case wont come off ??????????
Circular saw blades are Not rated at as high an RPM or as high of an impact as the brush cutter blade made for the trimmer. It will fit, but not really safe. Saw blade can fracture and fly apart. I have the brush cutter on my Echo and it does everything it is suppose to do.
@@robbirobson7330 That is a very slow trimmer. PLUS,...It's not just the speed. It's the impact. They can explode. They are not designed for that. Use the right blade. They make carbide teeth brush cutter blades for trimmers.
A cotter pint is made with soft weak metal. If it fails the rotating circular blade may come off flying and cut anything in its path. No thanks. I will stick with the nylon wire. I like my legs.
Thank you for good review. Could you do review on the types of weed eaters to which the blades can be attached? Specify the weed eaters and the blades.
Cuts well??? Did you watch your footage lol. It stalls out on anything larger than an inch this might good be good for heavy shrubs or brush but it's not for cutting logs or branches larger than an inch
Been running saw blades on trimmers for 20 years,cleared Akers of brush and trees,just have to know how to operate it safely..never operate without a strap to keep the blade away in case of kickback.
I read the comments about all the bad things that can happen doing this. I looked at brush blade kits for my trimmer and found they were expensive and I wasn't sure I'd be that much safer. I had an old 7.25 inch circular saw blade and tried that. It was a plain metal blade so no issues with carbide teeth falling off. It was rated for 7500 rpm. My trimmer output 10,000 rpm with no string and about 7500 rpm with the string head loaded. Also I didn't run the trimmer at max. rpm. I experienced kick back running the trimmer left to right against thick trunks so I avoided that. Cutting right to left I was able to take down up to 3" trunks easily. This worked really well for honey suckle bushes, brambles, etc. Much easier than my previous method of using a chainsaw. Thanks for putting this out there.
Most people want those course blades but if you use a plywood blade it will cut saplings far smoother without all the bounce back.
That looks super sketchy. I'm going to try it tomorrow.
Me, too. The sketchier, the better. 😂
Sounds like what a guy would say. I keep old saw blades just for that reasom
Don't, the circular saw blade will fly apart, they aren't meant to run at 9,000+ RPMs !
@@bradbarefoot2986 So are you saying they should duct tape some cardboard to their shins?
@@snakeplissken3021 It's your legs ... shop for mobility products like a wheel chair when (it's not a matter of if) the blade regardless if it had carbide cutter soldered in place or is just a plain blade slings apart. They have a 3,000 to 3,500 blade tip speed, after that they are a hand grenade just waiting to go off ... both type will will sling apart, hitting a rock hidden in the grass will do the job quicker. A man from my home town killed his co-worker with a standard saw blade cutting small tree limbs. The blade flew apart and sliced the man to bits who was catching the limbs as they fell, Mr. Turlington had to live with the fact he killed someone that till the day he passed away.
Don't Do This ... I owned a mower shop over 40+ years. Standard circular saw blades are made to run at about 3,500 RPMS ... the Echo (sold hundredds of them) turns up on the PTO end upwards of 9,000+ RPMS ... a circular saw blade, especially those with carbide cutters WILL SLING ITSELF APART. One customer tried this and killed his helper in the late 1980's ... bottom line let the UA-cam fools have the blade come apart at ruin his health ... not yours.
I'm thinking the lower rotating mass of a blade will cause this engine to over rev and cause engine damage.
My old saw says 5,800 rpm, but yeah, i use the blades that are made for my brush saw.
Local guy did this, the blade bust loose bounced off the house and nearly severed his foot above the ankle.
Horrible idea! Just buy a blade that’s made for a trimmer. Even with a manufacturers blade, it can be nerve racking, but I had faith in Echo and their engineers.
Dang thank for this. I was going to try Harbor Freight to save 💰. I will Just use an official blade. Mine is electrical Ryobi and w try one like a Forester or Ryobi. 🙏 ..
When the inevitable Zombie Apocalypse starts,
I'm converting my trimmer to this in short order.
I've done this for over two decades with the Echo 410U brush cutter. I take off the blade guard too which makes the job easier and I think safer. I've cut trees up to 6" down with it. I've cut 1000's of saplings down to the ground. Some of the carbide tips have come off so be aware. I only know this from looking at the blades after using them awhile. I've never had one hit me.
Same. I use cheap chinese 40 tooth discs with carbide tips and they're great. Excellent value for money. They cut grass, bushes and small trees. Only when tooth gets round then it doesn't want to cut wood, but still cuts tall grass...
@Christina R I have only seen Wisteria as vines. A method of getting rid of these plants is cutting a chunk about half way through the vine about 4 or 5 feet up. Coat that with full strength CrossBow. Keep on doing that every couple of days with a paint brush. You can use roundup but doesn't work as well. Once the vine show some real sickness, spray as much of the vine you can with a strong solution of Crossbow. About 6%. Be sure to add spreader to you mix. This works real well with poison oak and Ivy. This method kills the roots and all.
So, knowing that teeth come off, and knowing how fast that blade is spinning at the outer edge, you still think it's a good idea..........like I'm gonna trust your judgement.
Thank you. You just answered my question. I have several circular saw blades that I don't use, and don't want to spend more money on a "brush cutter" blade. So I am now going to try using my circular saw blades on my Echo trimmer!
I need to put something like this together for the kids to play with while unsupervised.
I have cleared brush and grass with this on a large lot twice a year. Took me a week each time. I used the larger blade with 40 or 42 teeth. My grasscutter has a big yoke style handle. That helped imensly with the kickback. And it does. I cut brush as thick as my arm. I never had an accident and I was always by myself. You want to be very careful and never forget that with a sawblade on that end it's a very dangerous tool.
also if you remove the seat belts and air bags from your vehicle the weight saving will give you improved miles per gallon.
I use dedicated brushcutter blade for this. More convenient and with no doubt SAFER option. You can sharpen it and even bend align teeth on the spot in a minute! Mine is husqvarna scarlett, but I'm pretty sure there is same ones from other brands incl. echo too. So far I have managed to seriously damage only one of them by stucking in larger tree (it had a small crack near one of teeth)
In England we use these things called 'Chainsaws' for cutting down trees and pruning. You want to try one, they are much better than what you are doing there and don't ping off into the stratosphere slicing limbs as they go.
One consideration you didn't mention was a trimmer can reach speeds of 7,000 rpm's which exceeds the recommended rotational speed of that carbide blade and promote the carbide cutters to fly off.
I've done it for years with no problem.
@@DavidSmith-fr1uz I am sure you have, but the possibility of it happening is still there, so wear eye protection & maybe some high boot while using it just in case. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
@@alfredocuomo1546 And permanent disability or chronic pain for you, a family member or innocent passerby - of course, they will cease using that off label after that first remarkable accident.
Met someone who put a saw blade on a disc cutter, guess what it ran up his leg practically splitting it in two and it was the bolts through his leg and the scaffold surrounding that held the leg together. He by the way removed the guard to facilitate this idiotic action.
You are forgetting the gear reduction in the "foot" of the string trimmer, so 2/3 of 7,000 is 4,620.
I've done this too - you're not supposed to have a trimmer come to an abrupt stop from full throttle. Good way to ruin parts.
While living 33 years in the high desert of central Nevada I ran 10 inch saw blades on my trimmer to keep the sage brush under control. Never had a problem, but you had to watch for any type of kick out of the blade every now and then..
Very nice. Can you use this for edging lawns? I am tired of changing trimmer cords
first time you touch concrete the carbide tips go flying.
If you want to eat the concrete then yeah go for it
Cutting is more productive when the material is held steady.
Also, you would be better off using a chain saw. Worth the investment.
I put this kit on my Echo. But I used a light-weight circular saw blade specifically designed for this purpose. It works great!
When I worked clearing/brushing trails around the Condon District, MT we had brush saws that were purpose made for cutting brush/saplings somewhat similar in build. But again, they were specifically designed for the purpose.
Happy to use a circular saw blade in a very dodgy practice that could cause shrapnel from too high a rpm, or even cutting off a limb, but makes sure to use earplugs incase his hearing is damaged. Got to love this.
Done this for 40 years. Cleared 4 acres of brush and poplars on my farm. 8 dollar blade from Lumber yard cheep and affective
Hi I have a STIHL FS-40 string weed 'whacker'. Took a 5/8 deep socket (the drive nut, on the trimmer, is this size) and ground down the socket, on that nut end, so as not to bind with housing mount of the wacker drive) . Then, centred an old 7 1/4 inch blade onto the other end, welded 'er up. Belt sanded it down some, and used a spacer nut, and washer, then screwed nut on drive threads. Cuts like a damn, just gotta balance it a bit more. Next project, is maybe a 10 inch blade, same idea. BE SURE the socket fits snugly on the drive-end.
6:00 You might, consider rotating the guard, about 3 inches more clockwise; this will help you gain CONTROL of the saw. Having it 'pull toward you '' allows for ALOT BETTER CONTROL. HAVE the branches, on the right side, as blade is controlled by your body weight.
As a landscaper with my own small business.. I can tell you from personal experience that this is one of the dumbest things you can do. I used that chainsaw chain for the Stihl weed eater head replacement and I had to leave a customers yard half way done because I needed some stitches
Well I wouldn't expect anything but from a YANKI. 🇦🇺
I saw some of those blades to turn the weed eater into a circular chainsaw... and figured, Nope... the kickback from those has to be hard to control
I've used one for years, no problem. You need good sense, not that common sense y'all got in Texass.
I used one a long time ago, it was made for cutting brush and had a much bigger blade, I told everybody on my crew to stay at least 20 feet or more away from me when I was using it, because if it hit something and kicked out, they could end up a foot shorter in a hurry.
You could always repurpose that guy doing the sides of hills and banks ????
Just kidding...STAY SAFE OUT THERE.
I did this with my Stihl a few years back (still do, pun intended 😜). Used an old dewalt 10” and festool 7 1/4” blade at different times. Works brilliantly for bamboo but because there’s more teeth, it can bog down on thick cuts, as you experienced too. You need to watch for kick back as you also showed happening. The Stihl doesn’t use a cotter pin though as the thread is reversed so that the spinning action will tighten the bolt.
Thanks for the video.
I bought a blade built for this purpose. It absolutely destroyed the clutch in my Troybilt. I'm talking shredded springs, warped "pressure plate", fragged one of the actual clutches.
Have used 10 inch blades before on week whackers, but they were plywood blades. I ground off every other tooth so it wouldn't "Load-Up" when cutting green wood. Cuts through 2-1/4" green saplings like butter, but it takes longer (and it's a LOT safer, too!).
Thanks for your reply ! I'm looking at this thinking a 10" blade would fit and Yup ! someone already did it. My thoughts, are to use a less aggressive blade as well. WISH ME LUCK to keep at least ONE leg !! I've got one ear, one eye and 9 fingers. My wife calls me lucky !! LOL !! Just kidding, these tools are NO JOKE.
Stay safe my friend !
7.10.22 Question: Does anybody happen to know if this saw blade idea will work on an electric 56v EGO ST1502LB string trimmer?
Keep looking, there is a video with a saw blade on an ego
Been doing this for years.
Old, dull circular saw blades make great brush cutters on the weed whacker.
I still have all my extremities. Fingers, toes, wrists and ankles still all intact.
Taking the guard off gives a deeper cutting capacity, but more dangerous.
Use your own judgment. Be safe.
Ill be trying the 10 inch blade off my table saw when it gets to dull for woodworking.
If you’re an idiot, don’t do this. You might hurt yourself.
Hi, Dan. i found that using the guqrd, as a stabilizier, works good. i always have the 'branch' (etc) being cut, on the 3 pm side of the clockwise spinning blade; using the guard as a type of '' backstop ''. The blade turning, always pulls you away, from the branch. Alot more control, rather than having it 'push' you away.
I think you're wrong. If you do this, you're an idiot. Not the other way around. Sooner or later things can go wrong.
I recently found a two-pack of cheap 7.25” circular saw blades on sale at the home center. These were cheap, low quality blades, but they were carbide tipped. I bought them just for the weed whacker. Sharper than anything I had ever used on the weed whacker. First time out and I got a little to close to my chain link fence. I broke off two of the carbide teeth, and cut right through two of chain link wires. I add this simply as a warning. That saw blade went through chain link in an instant. It’ll go through flesh and bone faster than that. Be safe!
I did this to my Ryobi 40volt trimmer. My teeth are much closer and I use a 6inch handheld chainsaw to gut any thing over 2 inches, but my Ryobi whacks right through smaller trees, takes down brush like it's nothing. Way better then those 3 bladed brush blades. Adding my own upgrade (just a blade) saved me over $100 and still getting a 3 blade brush cutter.
I would worry the weed eater motor is spinning faster than what the manufacture recommends. The blade could fail causing a lot of damage and or injuries.
The teeth on the circular saw blade have quite a bit more rake than those on the Echo blade. (The "rake" is the amount of hook on the teeth.) More rake means that the blade will grab & pull more. This doesn't mean that it's unusable, just that it will be harder to control. This can be seen in the video.
If you're using a non-carbide circular saw blade the teeth can be re-ground to have less rake, but it might not be worth the trouble.
You could use a blade with more teeth if you are concerned with it grabbing
MAKE sure, whatever number of teeth on your blade, THAT ALWAYS HAVE AT LEAST 3 TEETH, BITING INTO WHATEVER NEEDS TO BE SAWED. THIS APPLIES TO ALL SAWS.....ANY FORM, SIZE AND TYPE ! examples: 24 teeth, for large branches, trees. 32 for smaller stuff, and smaller ones, for even just large weeds. This makes sure, that the teeth, don't '' lock / grab and hold '' the item, being sawed.
You should use a blade with a negative hook, they don't pull into the cut. All of the non ferrous metal cutting blades have a negative hook and work great.
I did the same thing with the same kit and the same trimmer.
After about a year I removed the guard, it’s gets caught up a lot. I tried bigger blades, but the trimmer lacks power for that and if you use a bigger trimmer the weight becomes an issue.
This thing works great. We have a plethora of azaleas on the property and they spread like mad. This tool beats everything I have tries when it comes to cleaning them up for the mowers to get close. It’s fun too.
I was wondering if a 10" would of worked. You said they don't huh? Any idea how well it cuts down tall grasses? Like around our pond, etc. Thanks.
I can give you a suggestion on using a saw blade. I have been experimenting with all sorts of setups for years. First, don’t use a grass trimmer, use an edger. You take a standard edger blade and weld two saw blade teeth on each end of the edger blade. You get more ripping action with that setup. I purchased a commercial Echo edger with a metal guard. I cut all kinds of surface roots in the ground. Really works great. I have been doing this for years. Thanks.
I have a cordless strimmer that takes blades with 10 millimetre hole, do i require a flange put on first with other parts ive got to put 20 millimetre hole blade on ?
Every time I put in my trimmer PAS-225 up comes the SRM? So i guess the PAS-225 was not designed for add ons?
Thanks for a good vid. Only thing I can think of not to use a carbide tipped blade. Since you are moving the blade around stuff, like small rocks you could fling off one of the tips at a very high speed. Other that that, cheap way to go.
many trimmer brush cutting blades also use carbide tips. But you are right, they can break off if you hit something.
I've used 24 tooth carbide tip for over 30 years never a problem, had a lot of rocks stuck in my shins over the year don't see a tip hitting any harder than a rock may have had a few I thought were rocks. got good at not hitting rocks or chain link fences though. wouldn't really recommend any blade for a novice.
I have a Homelite st-200 . It is a string trimmer with a blower attachments and an includes guard for the 9" circular saw blade. It wiIl cut down 3-1/2"+ trees. I use the saw blade for saplings and triarc blade for big weeds and small trees. It's 30 years old and I still use it lots.
A 12 inch miter saw blade works great. Clears a pretty big area in one pass since its so big and you can get them with carbide teeth and a big range in the amount of teeth you can get. They already have the perfect arbor for most stihl trimmers too.
you’re gonna lose a foot
@@tseif3713 ok mom…
@@tseif3713 looks very dangerous to me. I would recommend a small chainsaw. Chainsaw will cut better and be a lot safer.
@@scottgelow6238I don't want to squat or bend for a couple of hours at a time with a heavy chainsaw. I have used this method for years without a problem. I have even accidentally hit T posts and it didn't destroy the blade. Everyday we take chances with our lives.
A 12" on a trimmer? Yeah, most people even with a decent mid-range are going to be putting immense strain on the motor, trans and powered 'rod' with a 10" blade.
Anyone with an average-mid grade trimmer should stick with a 7" circular blade. And if you're going to take advice from the internet, take it from someone who's actually done this.
Use a cheap, all-steel blade, that means no carbide.
Although soldered/brazed on, those carbide teeth will come off, and they'll make a nice little hole in you especially when hitting a rock, concrete or pipe/fencing.
Where do you get the flanges?
its great for brush cutting and cutting back shrubs or small bushes
The diablo is carbide tooth blade and tips will break off easy when you wobble around during cut I think this should scare you.
Glad to find this information. The plastic brush flails that come with the cordless Ryobi string trimmer are useless, so I'm working out how to fit a circular saw blade on the edger that came with it. Haven't yet gotten the blade to stay centered so I can't use it, for fear of destroying the bearings.
Stihl do a range of blades now, some with chisel teeth and some carbide tipped ones. I saw a video before of a guy using one of them chisel tooth ones and it went through what looked like a 3 or 4 inch branch in a fraction of a second without kicking back at all. I have a Kawasaki strimmer but I only buy Stihl stuff and it fits. My bolt doesn't have a hole for a cotter pin and I have had a blade go loose on me, but it's never come off, it just stops turning. I guess you don't have to buy Echo stuff just for an Echo strimmer as long as it fits. It might be that a normal mitre saw blade might shatter if it got forced sideways in a cut, I don't know. I got the Stihl 8 tooth blade, but only use it for tall grass and thick weeds, but it does go blunt after a while. I also got the scratcher blade with lots of small teeth, which is handy, but does jam and kickback on anything thicker then a finger, but it's gone really blunt now after cutting down a few blackthorn (prunus spinosa) suckers which are really hard wood and grow like weeds here in the UK.
Hi, is there a way to lock the trigger switch in the "On" position so I don't have to keep it pushed in with my hand while I operate the trimmer?
Zip tie the trigger down. But I wouldn’t recommend it with a circular saw blade on there. If it grabs into something it could pull out of your hands. Then you have a spinning rogue saw blade flying around you. I’d avoid that one.
why should you not use a bent shaft trimmer ? is the drive shaft too flexible and will wear out, or break ?
I would like to know that also.
@Burl Rodgers@@extremedrivr
Bent Shaft trimmers use a "spring" like core to drive the line-head because it must bend. So it is weak. RPM can exceed 10,000 some run at 12000 - spped of gasoline motor.
Straight Shaft Brush Cutter have a straight solid core to drive a reduction gear. So the head RPM is slower to increase torque to allow use of metal blade.
Metal Brush Cutting Blade are steel only and have max RPM of 10,000.
Circular Saw blade have lower max RPM because "brazed-on" Tunsten Carbide teeth can break off at very high RPM and hurt someone.
Where I can get the flanges?
did this back in 2015, works great on Brush but you have to have a lower grip to prevent the trimmer from swinging way out
This attachment has been around for many years. Often used by garden maintenance. Make sure its a straight shaft. Great for pruning shrubs.
As a kid I rented a brush cleare, which is a trimmer with a saw blade... works great!!
MAKE sure, whatever number of teeth on your blade, THAT ALWAYS HAVE AT LEAST 3 TEETH, BITING INTO WHATEVER NEEDS TO BE SAWED. THIS APPLIES TO ALL SAWS.....ANY FORM, SIZE AND TYPE ! examples: 24 teeth, for large branches, trees. 32 for smaller stuff, and smaller ones, for even just large weeds. This makes sure, that the teeth, don't '' lock / grab and hold '' the item, being sawed.
Stihl by example makes a brush blade specifically for this purpose. And the teeth are designed for the job at hand. Most circ saw blades are not.
Very nice. I would suggest integrating something to prevent the end from kicking which can lead to an injury. Also, suggest not using carbide tipped blade since carbide is brittle and can chip. You can always hand file plain steel blades.
Nah. I've used carbide saw blades for years with no problems. Steel blades are more dangerous in my experience because chunks can break and be thrown off. I know this for certain. And no as far as the end kicking. Yeah, it will kick if you're back cutting. Which I do. Again, no problem. You just have to practice, go in slowly, and if it does kick have it gripped so the saw can kick out easily. I've had numerous kick backs and didn't remotely have a chance of injury. You can break the head gear if you have a cheap saw though.
Been doing that for 40 years, never used a guard on a weedeater with string or blade. The sweet spot to avoid kickback is 9 to 12 and 3 to 6 also guard off gives you more blade width and better control and visibility, thick boots, long pants and eye protection, gloves help also for the occasional flying branch. also watch cutting 2" or bigger already cut branches they can fly back at you. Cut all briars, vines and rose bushes with the new blade first.
What's best weedeater to use?? Echo?? I have lots of brush.
I haven’t read all the comments but would like to say that if that blade shatters I wouldn’t like to be in the vicinity. Not being negative, just super cautious, take care ppl ✌️🌻
You can mount an 8 or 9in circular saw blade. It clears the guard on mine easily. Echo's blades are too expensive and do not stay sharp.
Oregon make brush cutter blades and they are cheaper too.
Been doing this for a long time. When you have miles of fencing you have to trim it makes it a lot faster just by not having to refill the spool all the time.
you can get a circular blade that's made specially for that. It has a tooth profile similar to a chainsaw that can be sharpened with a regular chainsaw file. It's a solid blade, not one of those sketchy carving ones sold for an angle grinder.
I have a DeWalt string trimmer. I removed the string trimmer head in order to put on a saw blade, but the saw blade hole is way bigger than the string trimmer threaded shaft. I can't find an adapter
My brother does this although he runs the blade backwards for no kickback seemed to work fine
Why would you use that to cut logs???? Seems like that might mess up your saw motor??
Can I use a 10” chop saw blade? Seems like it would. I’d just take the guard off.
Can I trim grass with it?
Why just straight shafted trimmers? Will it work on a bent shaft?
No, bent shaft trimmers use something like a speedometer cable, very thin and flexible, straight shaft use a straight steel shaft which is much stronger
I would not use a small blade on saplings... The best (slow) method is the chain-n-tractor complete removal method, but a quick way is to use a Stihl electric chainsaw. (pull or cut - you have the same disposal issue)
I run two Stihl trimmers: the one related to your posting has a 10" x 40-tooth blade. I have removed the guard. This blade dispenses with tall grasses, woody weeds, etc. I used all sorts of string trimmers on a 400' frontage drainage ditch over the 35yrs I have had this place - the blade works best. There is one extra trick when standing atop the ditch: adding a Darwin's Grip. Without bending more than my knees, I can sweep this blade like a scythe and flip a glob of weeds up onto the bank in one motion. Maybe one out of 8 times I have to stop and pull out a glob ...but, this combo is the best! At 79 I have had plenty of practice. Cheers. Jim
What is with the edit at 5:36? Did you go get the chainsaw?
Stihl makes about three different types of brush blades for their timmers. Just get the right tool. The saw blade they make is sharpened with the same round file you use for your saw.
Has there been cases where the blade shot off like in Tommy Boy?
Don't the manufacturer recommend their harness anytime using blades?
Might check safety recommendations 🤔
Thanks as I'm cutting dried out fall weeds cleaning garden.
Thanks and great video
Safety third!
I been using saw blades for 10yrs. They work just as good on my 27cc-36cc commercial weedwhackers. Quick & easy on brush work
Is the nut left hand thread?
I used 9 3/4 inch blade on mine and used a cup spacer on the bottom of the blade to keep it clear of the ground . Get to full revs before starting the cut and ease back when the revs start to drop .
Can this be used on a Greenworks cordless trimmer?
Nice demo. That Echo arbor nut is reverse thread just fyi for anyone trying this.
Would this work on a wen brand weed eater via trimmer 40v
I have been using this trick for over 15 years. Much cheaper than bush blades.Also metal cutoff blades work good for cutting metal fence or hawg wire. Just be careful about kickback.And. wood chips flying.
This works really well i use a stihl fs 85 brush cutter with a 9 inch tunkstin tip saw blade note you have to file out the inner hole about .5 mm to make it fitt nice but works way better on tee tree thick bush it does flick a lot of shit out i wear chain saw chaps and glasses never had a blade brake and done it for years .
What if you went with the bigger saw blade
Heck ya! Great idea. I want to put a circular saw blade on my push mower. I wonder if it will work on brush?
I bought one of those circular Steel wire cutter's, but not only was there no nuts or washer's provided. the Spool & and rear case wont come off ??????????
Thanks so much,i was wondering if this would work,going to use this also now
Circular saw blades are Not rated at as high an RPM or as high of an impact as the brush cutter blade made for the trimmer. It will fit, but not really safe. Saw blade can fracture and fly apart.
I have the brush cutter on my Echo and it does everything it is suppose to do.
on my trimmer it says 2500 rpm so i think its safe? I use it to cut down some bushes it works well
@@robbirobson7330 That is a very slow trimmer. PLUS,...It's not just the speed. It's the impact. They can explode. They are not designed for that. Use the right blade.
They make carbide teeth brush cutter blades for trimmers.
How did you drill the hole for the cotter pin?
The hole is already in the bolt provided!
I did that in the late 80’s. It works awesome.
I used one to cut bamboo but you have to keep the revery up probley not the safest way
Yeah it works. I have one that I use to cut brush and small trees. Also handy to take out “ jabber bushes” Just be careful of kick back!
You remind me of Richard Karn. A compliment. He's cool,
good vid!
Keep up the good work. And thanks a bunch
My dad mentioned this idea and got me curious. Thanks for the clarification.
Not going to mention the left hand threads?
Have you tried an 8" or a 10" blade ?
All the cutting power of a circular saw with none of the control.
A cotter pint is made with soft weak metal. If it fails the rotating circular blade may come off flying and cut anything in its path. No thanks. I will stick with the nylon wire. I like my legs.
In the late 70’s I used a blue homelite chainsaw converted with a brush blade. It used a circular saw blade. Nothings new!
I have burr weeds in one spot on my yard,and the string trimmer doesn't cut through the plant stem. Something like this would be handy.
Thank you for good review. Could you do review on the types of weed eaters to which the blades can be attached? Specify the weed eaters and the blades.
I have been doing this for 30 years and love it I have cut small trees 3inch diameter,
Cuts well??? Did you watch your footage lol. It stalls out on anything larger than an inch this might good be good for heavy shrubs or brush but it's not for cutting logs or branches larger than an inch
what about using it to edge ur driveway?
Been running saw blades on trimmers for 20 years,cleared Akers of brush and trees,just have to know how to operate it safely..never operate without a strap to keep the blade away in case of kickback.