i was under the assumption that the coldplate itself is also acting as a thermometer (changes conductivity across it as the temperature changes) but that would conduct to the IHS and the ground plane so i guess this is the closest we can get to 'cold plate' temp measuring
Correct. It also seems rather inefficient to place the thermistor any closer as it would interfere with either conduction or cooling flow or both. In the end of a X vs X comparison, the ultimate comparison is the final temps of either the CPU or GPU depending on which you are testing.
Quality acrylic should not crack under hand tightening. People who crack acrylic when tightening a fitting are usually using a hand tool and applying way too much torque.
agree to that too, and thats facts! Acrylic should not be tightened with too much torque, same with the lid for the oilfilter on a motorbike, you cant just torque the fuck out of it because the threadings are gonne break on you and then you get a big problem with the preassure and thats not even acrylic but aluminum threads @@paskowitz
Given that you have a flow sensor, and you know the flow of a given test loop, you could create a flow drop percentage chart (flow impedance chart) for any individual component that can be added to a loop, and then that could be a usable tool for users who want to buy components, or could at least explain why certain parts perform differently to others
Yeah, the alalysis of the design of the flow plate, seing on microscope the level of details in machining and such gives such a good idea of the quality of the product. Most useful review
With regards to the manual, there is a QR code on the box that takes you to download the manual for the block. It tells you the input/output ports in the manual
I like this channel a lot. As to the QD's (I use the latest Koolance QD3 version). I find it convenient to orient QD's such that QD junctions are arranged to be uniformly flow oriented. I find this helpful for maintenance and to ensure that I reconnect the loop correctly. One possible convention is the QD;s are arrange such that coolant always exits the male connector and always enters the female connection. I have a many such junctions and found this helpful. I construct a loop from scratch, I tend to create a diagram indicating the orientation of the various connectors. This helps assess what connectors may need to be ordered.
Built-In cold plate temperature sensor is correctly advertised. It does not advertise that it is "built into" just "built-in". Putting the sensor directly into the plate would create an inconsistency in thermal spread due to a void created by the pocket drilled out for the sensor. Sorry if I'm coming off as a grammar goblin, its an OCD thing.
"built-in cold plate thermal sensor" tells me that it's supposed to measure the temperature of the cold plate. You know, like a useful measurement point in between the CPU temperature and the water temperature. But the way it's set up, it's not going to be an accurate measurement at all. It's not a water temp sensor, because it will conduct some heat from the cpu. It's not a cold plate sensor because it's like 3cm away from the heat source. That means it's useless marketing garbage, just like everything else Corsair makes
Flow rate is measured as a maximum (directily proportional to pipe diameter), in order to measure a restriction it would require a pump flowing water at its the control loops maximum speed, and then adding something to the loop in-order to observe a restriction. An example of this for memory would be: a single drop of water can move through a 1mm tube and a 30mm tube at the same speed, but a LAKE cannot move through tube at the same speed as another tube.
At the control loops maximum speed* (//refering to the flow all the fittings and pipes and sustain(not dictated by the pump (//besides the diameter restrictions on a pump inlet&&outlet))
So if your pump is pushing like 20000000l/h, then a block is attached the rlow meter might display like (256l/h). The exact physical maximum flow of the lowest diameter (volume of area) in the loop.
Hey Derbauer, it would be really neat if you did a "here's some great starting items that are good bang for your buck items for beginner watercooling"! I've been wanting to give my hand at doing a full custom loop but honestly i don't know if I'd want to spend nearly $1000 on something like that just yet.
Well it's not supposed to be cheap if you want to fit it, and forget about it. It's expensive to get into, because you're paying for reliability. Ease of installation seems to be a secondary consideration for even the best open loop custom water-cooling solutions, so don't expect much from entry level! And expect to make mistakes.
Just get an AiO to start, with how big the coolers of modern GPUs are, they are cold enough. Or get a Hybrid card if you have the room in your case. You should plan your build with watercooling in mind, like how many rads you can have in your case vs how many you actually need, most Waterblock comes down to which one you like more visually as they all perform good enough, 1 - 5 degrees from eachother, don't cheap out on watercooling stuff either, no need to buy the most expensive either. Don't need Dozens of fitting nor hard tubbing either. Though if you are just cooling the CPU with it, jist get an AiO like I mentioned, they are good enough, cheap vs custom, easy to install, no need to refill unless it is a crappy one... just set and forget kind of deal. Make sure the pump block is not the highest in the loop, same with custom, always have the pump at lowest part or right next to the water reservoir and don't mix metals either if you are doing custom, copper block with copper rads or aluminum block with aluminum rads, aluminum parts are usually cheaper... though is up to you, EK starter pack is aluminum based and is very cheap, decent startin point, don't know if that is available yet as it has been a while...
Another advantage to that mounting type also is that you can change it from say intel to amd without having to drain the loop if you're not running QDC's for that :P
Although depending on when you changed your coolant last time, it might be time to change it... I have mine in for ~1,5y and starting to get yellowy-green (definitely needs to be switched out...)
@@cromefire_ I run ZMT tubing typically and change mine every 2 years on average and it's fine, though if you run clear soft tubing this isn't recommended, I'm more thinking as I change hardware frequently for fun to play with a new platform so that's actually pretty handy for me haha
For future videos, it might be a good idea to buy/build a dummy heater so that you can increase the precision of the heat load being put into the block. I think that Peltier modules might be an economical way to do this, but you might have to strap a heatsink onto the cold side to give it good access to fresh heat.
Would be interesting to see those angled connectors impact on flow rate, I remember since the early days when I started with watercooling in about 02, 03, many many ppl on forums (sound old right) were telling that those are really restrictive... Maybe that had an impact back in the days when not all blocks were that low flow restrictive and I can still remember a guy telling that running D5 from koolance on 12V at 600l/h is a waste and you need to pull 24V from ATX connector to get 1200l/h :DD
Well I hope this sets a trend, losing a display like this is one thing I miss from moving from my old AIO (the ROG RYUO) to full custom cooling. Love if EK started putting these on monoblocks.
I feel like a zig-zag pattern would be more ideal for coldplates. But that is more difficult to mass-produce. This time of thin structure is easier, since you can just make a 'shaving comb' to manufacture the fin-stack once you've milled down the surroundings to right depth. How ever, I do believe their water distribution is quite good. But I think their current design is more suited for lower flow rates than higher. A higher flow rate in such a non-restricting CPU block simply harms its performance, I reckon. It would be interesting if you added a 'valve' before the flow sensor. So you can play around with the flow rates and see what happens if you start on low flow rates and increase.
@@MyklCarlton I am taking a bit of inspiration from the Aquarium hobby and how people look at the use of UV bulbs. Light transmission and Heat Transmission isn't too different. Generally, in Aquariums, you want slower moving water across a heating or UV bulb because it provides more time for the energy to attach itself to the water column. In Aquariums, the complexity is less but the flow is generally unhindered through the components. The current design of this Corsair block is similar in that it doesn't really restrict flow. Therefore, I believe a slower moving water across the CPU block might be better for it. In fact, I believe it would be better if there was a slower moving water current over the CPU with a pass-through, that just returns to the radiator. Basically, high flow through Radiator, Low flow through CPU.
I'm surprised Corsair hasn't taken Aquacomputer's business, they already have desktop software so the hard part is already done. Temp sensors are dirt cheap, they could put one at water inlet, one at outlet, and include a few air temp sensors, and feed it all into their USB hub. Mid-tier motherboards don't include a temp sensor input anymore so Aquacomputer's market got bigger. With the latest hardware using so much power it seemed like water cooling might start making sense, but instead of innovating they've just raised prices. Rather than do maintenance on my loop I recently got a $40 Thermalright air cooler and my 13900K gets 40K Cinebench vs ~40.5K on water.
Hmmm on the notion of measuring the cold plate, could it be extrapolated through the use of: * The temperature probe that's as near as the cold plate and effectively measures the water temperature * Use the temperature of the CPU cores and assume that the IHS is mounted with the prescribed mounting pressure Then use a parametric temperature model of the cold plate, that is gathered through the use of thermal simulations/material properties and real-world simulation. Thus be-able to proactively estimate the temperature of the cold-plate real time. I think the use of such data can be used to more effectively tune the necessary flow rate and fan speed. On the other hand, it may be overengineering as the thermal conduction of heat ,for such a concentrated component such as a CPU is constrained by physics.
My personal flow is between 1-1,5 L/min with 3 thick 360 radiators and it's more than enough. Zero noise and I have a 3090 and 13700k with very low temperature.
The cold plate spot to spot delta is presumably going to be quite minimal since it is metal. Having the sensor in the middle would be incredibly stupid since the cooling finstack/coldplate etc would have to be altered in ways that would negatively affect the one task it has, cooling the cpu it's mounted on. The point of a sensor like this is NOT to measure the CPU temp or have some actually accurate scientific measurement of objective reality, the point is to know when something in your loop is malfunctioning like the pump for the most part but potentially some other gunked up or messed up component restricting the flow to the CPU block, which would cause the temp to go up and ideally trigger some kind of alarm and/or system shutdown and notifying whoever is responsible that a malfunction or degradation of some sort has occurred in the cooling system. In my opinion anyway. That is how I look at it, this has now become a contender for the spot as cooling block in my system but I'm likely going to go with another block that does VRM's too.
Wow, those labeling (flow direction) and instruction (GeForce 7900 XTX) mistakes seem rather glaring coming from a company as big as Corsair. Thank you for the review!
I probably sound like an old man saying this but Corsair to me feels like the car equivalent of those brands that make cosmetic vents and hub caps with spinning LEDs. It’s hard to take them seriously :P
A minimal flow rate can be estimated based on the max sustained CPU heat output, the heat capacity of the block, the heat capacity of the water in the loop, the radiative heat of the cooler equipment, the ambient temp, and some other variables I am forgetting! Or find it empirically 🎉
If I’m buying a water block, I don’t give a crap about anything but performance, I don’t want any little screens or RGB, all I want is the best thermals
I feel like this RGB game won't stop until Luther Corp designs a 10000000 Lumen batman projector, which you can put in your PC for those (completely burning out eyes) RGB fanciness...
perfect for a test bench but if your not going to build a high end pc to show it off its not worth it cause you cant see it anyways like you o11 dynamic case the motherboard is on the right side so if you have it on a desk it has to be on the right side of you to be able to see it so its one spot to put it and if you have it in a computer desk that has the desktop tower holder on the bottom left you cant see it anyway. so what im saying is for the price u can get it without the screen and just get a flow meter like what der8auer has then u can run the line were u can see it.
not usually. depending on the radiator you' may end up having more fans especially if you do push-pull setup and then you got to add the pump noise in to the equation. water coolers being quieter is a myth. edit: and air cooling is way less maintenance. i got in to water cooling for a while and still the one i built with custom loop as a second pc. but i went back to air on my latest build. noctua d15s no regrets
I'm in the process of shopping for CPU blocks, so the overall comparison you did + adding to it as new blocks come through has been super helpful. I'm still waiting to see what direct die blocks come available for Intel 13th Gen (der8auer micro?), but right now running a GPU only loop looks a little funny haha.
200 bucks USD is 270 bucks cad, ouch so 300 dollars for me. Just for the block. OUCH, not sure if i would go for it at that price. I do like the idea of a LCD screen on the cooler. I'm on the fence. For 300 bucks CAD i can get an AIO with a LCD screen. Hmmm, I'll wait until it goes down in price or on sale if i was going to do a custom loop. Kinda wish it was black, grey kinda looks off for me IMO.
For performance I have i my pump to bairly audible. When I stream I focus on a flow rate of around 100 to 105ish. Find that to be enough for cooling when streaming and it's whisper quiet. Find these days that the performance you get from components these days it doesn't matter much with them temp undervolting and and clocking... Also will note I have a massive amount of surface area on my rads x2 480 alpha monta rads with push pull so the fans don't have to spin up almost at all...
I got the non-LCD version of this block, replaced my corsair xc8 JTC edition, same setup and thermal paste and dropped 5 degrees C, I think it has more to do with the mounting solution in my case as I am on AM5 and my old block was designed before AM5, either way I'm loving the performance of the block, and it looks great in my rig!
@@Personalinfo404 I have mine oriented with the fittings on the right, and my inlet is on the bottom then. So it should be the left side if you have your fittings both on the bottom
TLDR: No. It isn't worth the price tag. For a water block only, nothing is worth more than a 100 bucks. The only exception is if the block is made from precious metals and/or gemstones. Most AIO that are priced at 150 (including fans) will do the job you need it to do.
I normally would never agrue with you Roman, but that temperature sensors is probing the cold plate... so calling it the cold plate probe is fair. Please compare water temp from flow rate sensor to the cold plate temp under load. (It should be different)
I purchased corsairs new h150i icue link aio and it does real well at keeping my 13900k cool. The fans perform real well too like I was really impressed with the performance of the whole unit.
Well done sir. You have so much hands on experience with blocks and cooling. Why dont you put your knowledge to work and see about designing a few prototype water blocks. See if you can get an improvement with all the features and design protocols you deem good and important? It seems this would be the natural progression for you.
I wouldn’t be worried about flow numbers the numbers you should be worried about is what is the actual water temperature is the water temperature actually dissipating the heat or is the water flowing too fast and it’s not dissipating the heat
It'd be nice to see multiple pump speeds. Maybe 30, 60, 100. I run a DDC at 100% because my system is under my desk and the fans are still louder than it. So a D5 at 30% would give me almost no useful info about block choice as my flow rate is much greater.
I recently bought an XD7 RGB. When I took it out of the box to look it over, I noticed an extra port that I had not seen in any pictures or videos. It was not mentioned in any of the included documentation. I emailed Corsair and they sent me an updated user manual that marks the extra port as a "temperature probe port". They are not great at updating the manuals.
I think you'd be better off spending your money on an auxiliary system display to mount in your case. (or elsewhere) That could be used in any new system build and in any configuration, water, air, prayer, magic cooling dust . . . .
I went with Alphacool Core One. Amazing performance per $. Also, could you do a GPU block test comparison? Would be nice to know how the GPU waterblocks aqtually stack up between vendors. 😊
One thing you might want to try and figure out is how much your flow sensor impedes flow. 150l/mn is prob not the kind of flow where it matters a lot, but it might be interesting to compare a block's performance with and without the sensor in the loop
He did mention the optimized flow state, which could allow you to more efficiently connect multiple cooling devices to the same loop, like gpu cooling, without seeing any compromising bottlenecks in the water flow's ability to carry heat away from the components. It can also be things like long-term durability increases and production cost optimization. Lots of small details add up when combined, but not necessarily in a manner that is directly observable for the end user. Either way, it's mostly the display that is driving up the cost.
The marketing on the cold plate temp is fine imo. As you said, it's a small difference and if you're running your pump & fan speeds off that sensor then it just needs to be adjusted relative to that temperature reading and your actual CPU core/package temps. Definitely very overpriced in typical corsair fashion, but also a very sleek design and overall looks to be a quality product. They're really putting a huge premium on their whole new icue ecosystem. Whether it's the new fans with the single connector or this water block, it's all wildly overpriced. Thankfully there's quite a bit of competition.
It will be too slow to run pump speed correctly, and probably too quick for fan speed. If it were closer to the center of the coldplate and bonded to it properly, you could get a delta T vs the die to confirm a good mount, but as it is it does nothing. Meanwhile, if you want a sensor for fan speed, putting it at the radiator inlet is ideal.
It doesn't need to be this real time temp sensor since it's for a custom loop. Custom loops don't need that fast of adjustments, as long as the min pump/fan speeds are reasonable then it's not going to make a difference unless you're doing some crazy OC'ing tests, but at that point you're probably not going with a corsair product in the first place. It's clearly a mainstream product targeted at the gaming crowd.@@concinnus
@@AlexC-ds7ji It adds nothing, because die sense (package temp) is what you'd use for pump speed. And I wouldn't even agree that the temperature or response time difference is insignificant. The sensor is outside the coolant moat and seal, so it's closer to coolant than die temp. Coolant temp is smoothed and laggy vs die by >30s, so it is woefully inappropriate for pump speed.
How so?@@helium5912 If the pump speed is pwm controlled. The pump setting is a percentage of max rpm if I am not mistaken. This means that with resistance to the flow, the pump will work harder to maintain the same rpm/flow, and thus draws more power.
Good review/breakdown 🤙🏻 Random question tho, why have the male part of the QDC on the block? All the pressure from the disconnecting is put on the male end, the female end pushes it away, I always thought that’s a way to eventually crack something cuz of the pressure on the blocks/plexi/etc. just a thought.
roman, can you show how you would go about delidding a 7800x3d? that's something I want to do but have no confidence in cutting/filing the direct die frame.
How come you're not a fan of that type of mounting der8auer? Does it have any disadvantage? Edit: So, you don't think it applies enough mounting pressure?
Do they have a screen flow indicator that doesn’t have rgb vomet on it? I don’t need another program bogging down my computer just so the rgb doesn’t look like garbage
The sensor mounted in this way could not measure precisely flow rate, if you read manual it says you have to keep at least 20-30cm (i don't remember the number precisely) of straight pipe to read flow correctly
I also remember this from their old sensors but with this one I checked the manual prior to installation and it doesnt say this. "integrate the sensor into your cooling system, directions of flow can be freely chosen. For optimum performance and minimum noise, the buttons and the white illuminated area of the sensor should be facing upwards." aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/high_flow_NEXT_en.pdf
Since he measured both the block in the same setup the flow difference will be the same......he measured the DIFFERENCE between the blocks.... Zzzz.....
Hi derBauer as you say there are no flow indicators for the block could you show the difference for the block if it was wrongly connected. Also can you show how many Millilitres of water each block holds - that will be a good indicator of the thermal capacity of the block.
I had a client wanting a CPU block with LCD screen, but there was nothing on the market other than the ugly Thermaltake one. That would have been a great choice for him.
I have a 14900K stock with no lapping. Would it be better to run the Velocity2 without a contact frame or something like the Heatkiller with a contact frame? I see EK offers a contact frame for the velocity2 but at a hefty price. I should mention I have never done a custom loop I have always ran AIO's and I'm running a 1/4 HP chiller with no rads or fans in this new setup. I guess I'm asking what block would work well for me? I'm still not sure on what pump to use because the chiller requires 1000 L/H and to get that out of a D5 would be too loud if at all possible from my limited understanding.
flow sensors in fuel systems on aircraft have to be calibrated in a long process after installing them, is that type calibration not needed in the flow sensor you bought?
Since thermistor is somewhere on the periphery on the cold-plate they can market it as built-in because it's integrated into the block
i was under the assumption that the coldplate itself is also acting as a thermometer (changes conductivity across it as the temperature changes) but that would conduct to the IHS and the ground plane so i guess this is the closest we can get to 'cold plate' temp measuring
Correct. It also seems rather inefficient to place the thermistor any closer as it would interfere with either conduction or cooling flow or both. In the end of a X vs X comparison, the ultimate comparison is the final temps of either the CPU or GPU depending on which you are testing.
Yeah, from a semantic English standpoint "Built-in coldplate temperate sensor" isn't inaccurate; it's built-in and measures the coldplate.
Make sure to ask Corsair before you auction it
Don’t forget to keep the names of the buyers
Ouch 😂
Ohh no.....ohhh nooooooo
(lets make @sparkymotive comment the top comment)
Damn.... brutal, but deserved
😂
I appreciate the inclusion of a flow meter. Thank you very much.
block looks pretty slick but i wouldnt use any part with acrylic threading, personally
Agree to that, even tho Acryl is all good in the hood, used it a lot in aquariums but there is a but when it comes to computer :)
I feel like acrylic is just waiting to break on you
Quality acrylic should not crack under hand tightening. People who crack acrylic when tightening a fitting are usually using a hand tool and applying way too much torque.
agree@@tomppeli.
agree to that too, and thats facts! Acrylic should not be tightened with too much torque, same with the lid for the oilfilter on a motorbike, you cant just torque the fuck out of it because the threadings are gonne break on you and then you get a big problem with the preassure and thats not even acrylic but aluminum threads
@@paskowitz
Given that you have a flow sensor, and you know the flow of a given test loop, you could create a flow drop percentage chart (flow impedance chart) for any individual component that can be added to a loop, and then that could be a usable tool for users who want to buy components, or could at least explain why certain parts perform differently to others
Nice blocks and performance but the most chill on the table is the cat.
Thanks for the in depth testing. Need more of this.
Yeah, the alalysis of the design of the flow plate, seing on microscope the level of details in machining and such gives such a good idea of the quality of the product. Most useful review
With regards to the manual, there is a QR code on the box that takes you to download the manual for the block. It tells you the input/output ports in the manual
I like this channel a lot. As to the QD's (I use the latest Koolance QD3 version). I find it convenient to orient QD's such that QD junctions are arranged to be uniformly flow oriented. I find this helpful for maintenance and to ensure that I reconnect the loop correctly. One possible convention is the QD;s are arrange such that coolant always exits the male connector and always enters the female connection. I have a many such junctions and found this helpful. I construct a loop from scratch, I tend to create a diagram indicating the orientation of the various connectors. This helps assess what connectors may need to be ordered.
Is it possible if DerCat can get his own YT channel ?
*DerKadse
@@Malicex666x that'd be DieKatze
@@Malicex666x *DerKatze
derKatz3
Built-In cold plate temperature sensor is correctly advertised. It does not advertise that it is "built into" just "built-in". Putting the sensor directly into the plate would create an inconsistency in thermal spread due to a void created by the pocket drilled out for the sensor. Sorry if I'm coming off as a grammar goblin, its an OCD thing.
"built-in cold plate thermal sensor" tells me that it's supposed to measure the temperature of the cold plate. You know, like a useful measurement point in between the CPU temperature and the water temperature. But the way it's set up, it's not going to be an accurate measurement at all. It's not a water temp sensor, because it will conduct some heat from the cpu. It's not a cold plate sensor because it's like 3cm away from the heat source. That means it's useless marketing garbage, just like everything else Corsair makes
Flow rate is measured as a maximum (directily proportional to pipe diameter), in order to measure a restriction it would require a pump flowing water at its the control loops maximum speed, and then adding something to the loop in-order to observe a restriction.
An example of this for memory would be: a single drop of water can move through a 1mm tube and a 30mm tube at the same speed, but a LAKE cannot move through tube at the same speed as another tube.
At the control loops maximum speed* (//refering to the flow all the fittings and pipes and sustain(not dictated by the pump (//besides the diameter restrictions on a pump inlet&&outlet))
Can*
This is why flow meters are known to "restrict" flow rate, because they take up some of the area available for water to flow through at one time.
My apologies for phone thumb typing, big fan, hope you get everything figured out
So if your pump is pushing like 20000000l/h, then a block is attached the rlow meter might display like (256l/h). The exact physical maximum flow of the lowest diameter (volume of area) in the loop.
Hey Derbauer, it would be really neat if you did a "here's some great starting items that are good bang for your buck items for beginner watercooling"! I've been wanting to give my hand at doing a full custom loop but honestly i don't know if I'd want to spend nearly $1000 on something like that just yet.
Bykski and/or barrow for everything but quick disconnects.
Well it's not supposed to be cheap if you want to fit it, and forget about it. It's expensive to get into, because you're paying for reliability. Ease of installation seems to be a secondary consideration for even the best open loop custom water-cooling solutions, so don't expect much from entry level! And expect to make mistakes.
Just get an AiO to start, with how big the coolers of modern GPUs are, they are cold enough. Or get a Hybrid card if you have the room in your case. You should plan your build with watercooling in mind, like how many rads you can have in your case vs how many you actually need, most Waterblock comes down to which one you like more visually as they all perform good enough, 1 - 5 degrees from eachother, don't cheap out on watercooling stuff either, no need to buy the most expensive either. Don't need Dozens of fitting nor hard tubbing either. Though if you are just cooling the CPU with it, jist get an AiO like I mentioned, they are good enough, cheap vs custom, easy to install, no need to refill unless it is a crappy one... just set and forget kind of deal. Make sure the pump block is not the highest in the loop, same with custom, always have the pump at lowest part or right next to the water reservoir and don't mix metals either if you are doing custom, copper block with copper rads or aluminum block with aluminum rads, aluminum parts are usually cheaper... though is up to you, EK starter pack is aluminum based and is very cheap, decent startin point, don't know if that is available yet as it has been a while...
Another advantage to that mounting type also is that you can change it from say intel to amd without having to drain the loop if you're not running QDC's for that :P
Although depending on when you changed your coolant last time, it might be time to change it... I have mine in for ~1,5y and starting to get yellowy-green (definitely needs to be switched out...)
@@cromefire_ I run ZMT tubing typically and change mine every 2 years on average and it's fine, though if you run clear soft tubing this isn't recommended, I'm more thinking as I change hardware frequently for fun to play with a new platform so that's actually pretty handy for me haha
For future videos, it might be a good idea to buy/build a dummy heater so that you can increase the precision of the heat load being put into the block. I think that Peltier modules might be an economical way to do this, but you might have to strap a heatsink onto the cold side to give it good access to fresh heat.
I forget how much Steve paid for the one GN uses but I'm sure he would be happy to help Roman if he decides to get one too.
15:25 i love this Bond Villain style summary...
thumbs up for the kitty!
when you pay for aesthetic you don't pay for performance, always remember it
Would be interesting to see those angled connectors impact on flow rate, I remember since the early days when I started with watercooling in about 02, 03, many many ppl on forums (sound old right) were telling that those are really restrictive... Maybe that had an impact back in the days when not all blocks were that low flow restrictive and I can still remember a guy telling that running D5 from koolance on 12V at 600l/h is a waste and you need to pull 24V from ATX connector to get 1200l/h :DD
Well I hope this sets a trend, losing a display like this is one thing I miss from moving from my old AIO (the ROG RYUO) to full custom cooling. Love if EK started putting these on monoblocks.
I feel like a zig-zag pattern would be more ideal for coldplates. But that is more difficult to mass-produce. This time of thin structure is easier, since you can just make a 'shaving comb' to manufacture the fin-stack once you've milled down the surroundings to right depth.
How ever, I do believe their water distribution is quite good. But I think their current design is more suited for lower flow rates than higher. A higher flow rate in such a non-restricting CPU block simply harms its performance, I reckon. It would be interesting if you added a 'valve' before the flow sensor. So you can play around with the flow rates and see what happens if you start on low flow rates and increase.
I understand that shaved is less thermally efficient than milled for fins, some change in the electro-mechanical structure under shaving.
@@MyklCarlton I am taking a bit of inspiration from the Aquarium hobby and how people look at the use of UV bulbs. Light transmission and Heat Transmission isn't too different. Generally, in Aquariums, you want slower moving water across a heating or UV bulb because it provides more time for the energy to attach itself to the water column. In Aquariums, the complexity is less but the flow is generally unhindered through the components. The current design of this Corsair block is similar in that it doesn't really restrict flow.
Therefore, I believe a slower moving water across the CPU block might be better for it. In fact, I believe it would be better if there was a slower moving water current over the CPU with a pass-through, that just returns to the radiator. Basically, high flow through Radiator, Low flow through CPU.
I'm surprised Corsair hasn't taken Aquacomputer's business, they already have desktop software so the hard part is already done. Temp sensors are dirt cheap, they could put one at water inlet, one at outlet, and include a few air temp sensors, and feed it all into their USB hub. Mid-tier motherboards don't include a temp sensor input anymore so Aquacomputer's market got bigger.
With the latest hardware using so much power it seemed like water cooling might start making sense, but instead of innovating they've just raised prices. Rather than do maintenance on my loop I recently got a $40 Thermalright air cooler and my 13900K gets 40K Cinebench vs ~40.5K on water.
Hmmm on the notion of measuring the cold plate, could it be extrapolated through the use of:
* The temperature probe that's as near as the cold plate and effectively measures the water temperature
* Use the temperature of the CPU cores and assume that the IHS is mounted with the prescribed mounting pressure
Then use a parametric temperature model of the cold plate, that is gathered through the use of thermal simulations/material properties and real-world simulation. Thus be-able to proactively estimate the temperature of the cold-plate real time. I think the use of such data can be used to more effectively tune the necessary flow rate and fan speed.
On the other hand, it may be overengineering as the thermal conduction of heat ,for such a concentrated component such as a CPU is constrained by physics.
My personal flow is between 1-1,5 L/min with 3 thick 360 radiators and it's more than enough. Zero noise and I have a 3090 and 13700k with very low temperature.
Not sure which is worse, Asus tax or the Corsair tax. As long as people keep splashing the cash prices will continus to rise.
Actually the Finnish site is not inside the city limits of Helsinki. It's located a bit north from Helsinki in the city Tuusula.
Came for the cat. Stayed for the tech review. Danke.
The cold plate spot to spot delta is presumably going to be quite minimal since it is metal. Having the sensor in the middle would be incredibly stupid since the cooling finstack/coldplate etc would have to be altered in ways that would negatively affect the one task it has, cooling the cpu it's mounted on. The point of a sensor like this is NOT to measure the CPU temp or have some actually accurate scientific measurement of objective reality, the point is to know when something in your loop is malfunctioning like the pump for the most part but potentially some other gunked up or messed up component restricting the flow to the CPU block, which would cause the temp to go up and ideally trigger some kind of alarm and/or system shutdown and notifying whoever is responsible that a malfunction or degradation of some sort has occurred in the cooling system.
In my opinion anyway. That is how I look at it, this has now become a contender for the spot as cooling block in my system but I'm likely going to go with another block that does VRM's too.
Wow, those labeling (flow direction) and instruction (GeForce 7900 XTX) mistakes seem rather glaring coming from a company as big as Corsair. Thank you for the review!
Would like to see perf differential of these blocks with higher vs lower flow rates
I probably sound like an old man saying this but Corsair to me feels like the car equivalent of those brands that make cosmetic vents and hub caps with spinning LEDs. It’s hard to take them seriously :P
Are research job made into a tech video, you have to love this!
That is a super nice looking water block.
Any update on the Thermal Grizzly Direct Die Waterblock for 13th gen?
A minimal flow rate can be estimated based on the max sustained CPU heat output, the heat capacity of the block, the heat capacity of the water in the loop, the radiative heat of the cooler equipment, the ambient temp, and some other variables I am forgetting!
Or find it empirically 🎉
no.
If I’m buying a water block, I don’t give a crap about anything but performance, I don’t want any little screens or RGB, all I want is the best thermals
You can keep the test system for all future waterblock tests :)
We mortals have RTX 4000 series, Corsair already got RTX 7000 series .... daaaamn 😂😂😂.
Need to measure the resistance/load on the pump motor when testing. The flow can stay the same but the load on the motor could be much higher?
I just noticed you are a Stargate fan. I have all the episodes for SG1, Atlantis and Universe along with the 3 movies.
I feel like this RGB game won't stop until Luther Corp designs a 10000000 Lumen batman projector, which you can put in your PC for those (completely burning out eyes) RGB fanciness...
That water block on the end...what? They had XT/X versions of the 7900, not just GT, GTX? Hope it fits on the Ultra!
perfect for a test bench but if your not going to build a high end pc to show it off its not worth it cause you cant see it anyways like you o11 dynamic case the motherboard is on the right side so if you have it on a desk it has to be on the right side of you to be able to see it so its one spot to put it and if you have it in a computer desk that has the desktop tower holder on the bottom left you cant see it anyway. so what im saying is for the price u can get it without the screen and just get a flow meter like what der8auer has then u can run the line were u can see it.
Video idea: How flow affects temperatures.
Question: is water-cooling really quieter than a Noctua air cooler?
not usually. depending on the radiator you' may end up having more fans especially if you do push-pull setup and then you got to add the pump noise in to the equation. water coolers being quieter is a myth. edit: and air cooling is way less maintenance. i got in to water cooling for a while and still the one i built with custom loop as a second pc. but i went back to air on my latest build. noctua d15s no regrets
I'm in the process of shopping for CPU blocks, so the overall comparison you did + adding to it as new blocks come through has been super helpful. I'm still waiting to see what direct die blocks come available for Intel 13th Gen (der8auer micro?), but right now running a GPU only loop looks a little funny haha.
Do you know if this can be used for direct die 13th gen cooling?
a water cooler should cool a computer and the main focus should not be a lot of unnecessary functions!
I’m watching with bated breath. I just bought one alongside your contact frame for 13th gen
200 bucks USD is 270 bucks cad, ouch so 300 dollars for me. Just for the block. OUCH, not sure if i would go for it at that price. I do like the idea of a LCD screen on the cooler. I'm on the fence. For 300 bucks CAD i can get an AIO with a LCD screen.
Hmmm, I'll wait until it goes down in price or on sale if i was going to do a custom loop.
Kinda wish it was black, grey kinda looks off for me IMO.
For performance I have i my pump to bairly audible. When I stream I focus on a flow rate of around 100 to 105ish. Find that to be enough for cooling when streaming and it's whisper quiet. Find these days that the performance you get from components these days it doesn't matter much with them temp undervolting and and clocking...
Also will note I have a massive amount of surface area on my rads x2 480 alpha monta rads with push pull so the fans don't have to spin up almost at all...
I got the non-LCD version of this block, replaced my corsair xc8 JTC edition, same setup and thermal paste and dropped 5 degrees C, I think it has more to do with the mounting solution in my case as I am on AM5 and my old block was designed before AM5, either way I'm loving the performance of the block, and it looks great in my rig!
If the block is oriented with both G1/4 fittings on the bottom, is the left or right one the inlet?
@@Personalinfo404 I have mine oriented with the fittings on the right, and my inlet is on the bottom then. So it should be the left side if you have your fittings both on the bottom
TLDR:
No. It isn't worth the price tag. For a water block only, nothing is worth more than a 100 bucks. The only exception is if the block is made from precious metals and/or gemstones.
Most AIO that are priced at 150 (including fans) will do the job you need it to do.
I normally would never agrue with you Roman, but that temperature sensors is probing the cold plate... so calling it the cold plate probe is fair. Please compare water temp from flow rate sensor to the cold plate temp under load. (It should be different)
I purchased corsairs new h150i icue link aio and it does real well at keeping my 13900k cool. The fans perform real well too like I was really impressed with the performance of the whole unit.
Well done sir. You have so much hands on experience with blocks and cooling. Why dont you put your knowledge to work and see about designing a few prototype water blocks. See if you can get an improvement with all the features and design protocols you deem good and important? It seems this would be the natural progression for you.
And send the prototype to LTT for testing! 😂
@@acidcrow4051 Um NO! :D
Quick-disconnect fittings are so restrictive, they're worse than the block
I wouldn’t be worried about flow numbers the numbers you should be worried about is what is the actual water temperature is the water temperature actually dissipating the heat or is the water flowing too fast and it’s not dissipating the heat
Hook it up to a Volkswagen Golf III water loop for a better flow rate.
It'd be nice to see multiple pump speeds. Maybe 30, 60, 100. I run a DDC at 100% because my system is under my desk and the fans are still louder than it. So a D5 at 30% would give me almost no useful info about block choice as my flow rate is much greater.
I recently bought an XD7 RGB. When I took it out of the box to look it over, I noticed an extra port that I had not seen in any pictures or videos. It was not mentioned in any of the included documentation. I emailed Corsair and they sent me an updated user manual that marks the extra port as a "temperature probe port". They are not great at updating the manuals.
I think you'd be better off spending your money on an auxiliary system display to mount in your case. (or elsewhere)
That could be used in any new system build and in any configuration, water, air, prayer, magic cooling dust . . . .
I went with Alphacool Core One. Amazing performance per $. Also, could you do a GPU block test comparison? Would be nice to know how the GPU waterblocks aqtually stack up between vendors. 😊
LOL, just by seeing the title, I KNEW it was a Corsair product... I wonder why
One thing you might want to try and figure out is how much your flow sensor impedes flow. 150l/mn is prob not the kind of flow where it matters a lot, but it might be interesting to compare a block's performance with and without the sensor in the loop
So how long until we see a der8auer silent pump with build-in water temperature meter and flow meter?
can't wait to get my hands on geforce 7900 xtx
Compared to stupid prices of EK block, that corsair block looks quite reasonable(even with their crap iCue bloatware).
best waterblock launching soon - Optimus Signature V3, this will worth $200
but definetly not Corsair's junk
Built in means it should be one piece, enclosed. "It makes contact" isn't the same.
"Is This Water Block Really Worth $200?" No. No, it's not.
Do they tell you how much torque to tighten the fittings? Need to be careful with those acrylic threads.
If they charged $800, people would be mounting them to the wrong chips.
improvements in technology have plateaued nothing is new
Maybe, the difference is seen with a little higher flow? The changes might need that to do better.
these water blocks not have a motherboard backing plate?
That's a pretty big cat.
Considering the number of changes to the design, I'm surprised you didn't find much difference in the temperature
He did mention the optimized flow state, which could allow you to more efficiently connect multiple cooling devices to the same loop, like gpu cooling, without seeing any compromising bottlenecks in the water flow's ability to carry heat away from the components.
It can also be things like long-term durability increases and production cost optimization. Lots of small details add up when combined, but not necessarily in a manner that is directly observable for the end user. Either way, it's mostly the display that is driving up the cost.
The marketing on the cold plate temp is fine imo. As you said, it's a small difference and if you're running your pump & fan speeds off that sensor then it just needs to be adjusted relative to that temperature reading and your actual CPU core/package temps. Definitely very overpriced in typical corsair fashion, but also a very sleek design and overall looks to be a quality product. They're really putting a huge premium on their whole new icue ecosystem. Whether it's the new fans with the single connector or this water block, it's all wildly overpriced. Thankfully there's quite a bit of competition.
It will be too slow to run pump speed correctly, and probably too quick for fan speed. If it were closer to the center of the coldplate and bonded to it properly, you could get a delta T vs the die to confirm a good mount, but as it is it does nothing. Meanwhile, if you want a sensor for fan speed, putting it at the radiator inlet is ideal.
It doesn't need to be this real time temp sensor since it's for a custom loop. Custom loops don't need that fast of adjustments, as long as the min pump/fan speeds are reasonable then it's not going to make a difference unless you're doing some crazy OC'ing tests, but at that point you're probably not going with a corsair product in the first place. It's clearly a mainstream product targeted at the gaming crowd.@@concinnus
@@AlexC-ds7ji It adds nothing, because die sense (package temp) is what you'd use for pump speed. And I wouldn't even agree that the temperature or response time difference is insignificant. The sensor is outside the coolant moat and seal, so it's closer to coolant than die temp. Coolant temp is smoothed and laggy vs die by >30s, so it is woefully inappropriate for pump speed.
Perhaps you should measure power draw on the pump as well as flow rate. If power draw increases on the pump, it could indicate restriction.
Not how that works.
How so?@@helium5912 If the pump speed is pwm controlled. The pump setting is a percentage of max rpm if I am not mistaken. This means that with resistance to the flow, the pump will work harder to maintain the same rpm/flow, and thus draws more power.
good day! Thanks for the video.
which pump is used to provide a flow of 150 l/h?
and what is the pressure at the same time?
Corsair also said the new water blocks cover 30 series but so far I do not see any 30s available yet.
Finally a good LCD CPU block
Good review/breakdown 🤙🏻
Random question tho, why have the male part of the QDC on the block? All the pressure from the disconnecting is put on the male end, the female end pushes it away, I always thought that’s a way to eventually crack something cuz of the pressure on the blocks/plexi/etc. just a thought.
Nice water block, but $200 is too much...
roman, can you show how you would go about delidding a 7800x3d? that's something I want to do but have no confidence in cutting/filing the direct die frame.
secret tip: dont
@@quintit that seems to be the consensus
How come you're not a fan of that type of mounting der8auer? Does it have any disadvantage?
Edit: So, you don't think it applies enough mounting pressure?
Do they have a screen flow indicator that doesn’t have rgb vomet on it? I don’t need another program bogging down my computer just so the rgb doesn’t look like garbage
It says nylon on the website, is it different from acrylic?
RX Nvidia GeForce 7900 XT(X) .. just can't wait to see first benchmarks ;) ( corsair is testing printing on stickers ? )
The sensor mounted in this way could not measure precisely flow rate, if you read manual it says you have to keep at least 20-30cm (i don't remember the number precisely) of straight pipe to read flow correctly
I hope someone tests this to confirm, would be an interesting watch
I also remember this from their old sensors but with this one I checked the manual prior to installation and it doesnt say this.
"integrate the sensor into your cooling system, directions of flow can be freely chosen. For optimum performance and minimum noise, the buttons and the white illuminated area of the sensor should be facing upwards."
aquacomputer.de/handbuecher.html?file=tl_files/aquacomputer/downloads/manuals/high_flow_NEXT_en.pdf
Since he measured both the block in the same setup the flow difference will be the same......he measured the DIFFERENCE between the blocks.... Zzzz.....
Hi derBauer as you say there are no flow indicators for the block could you show the difference for the block if it was wrongly connected. Also can you show how many Millilitres of water each block holds - that will be a good indicator of the thermal capacity of the block.
Well the whole product built-in.. its not saying cold plate built-in temp sensor.
I would spend 200$ only for an Aquacomputer block, not a Corsair one.
I had a client wanting a CPU block with LCD screen, but there was nothing on the market other than the ugly Thermaltake one. That would have been a great choice for him.
I would understand that as.. built in sensor FOR the cold plate
I prefer an all metal block. The plastic threads look especially fragile on this one.
Great video
I have a 14900K stock with no lapping. Would it be better to run the Velocity2 without a contact frame or something like the Heatkiller with a contact frame? I see EK offers a contact frame for the velocity2 but at a hefty price. I should mention I have never done a custom loop I have always ran AIO's and I'm running a 1/4 HP chiller with no rads or fans in this new setup. I guess I'm asking what block would work well for me? I'm still not sure on what pump to use because the chiller requires 1000 L/H and to get that out of a D5 would be too loud if at all possible from my limited understanding.
flow sensors in fuel systems on aircraft have to be calibrated in a long process after installing them, is that type calibration not needed in the flow sensor you bought?
BTW is your cat on valium?