I have searched many times over the years for NES repair tutorials. Today this one just pops up in my recommended. I see its from 2016! Your tutorial also goes into more than just how to clean the cartridge pins or disable the lockout chip. None of my searches ever found this excellent tutorial. Thanks. Subscribed.
Hey I just wanted to thank you for making these videos. I have pretty decent soldering skills but I'm not super good at reading schematics. I'm definitely a visual learner and it iis really great to see someone walking through the process. I have a big pile of NES consoles that I'm getting ready to attempt to recap/refurbish. Thank you again!!!
Left a front loader running The Lone Ranger for a couple hours today and when I got back to it the video was black and white! I get weird scrambled color graphics at boot that seem to stabilize as the color fades out and it turns to B&W (looks almost like it's melting off the screen). I'm going to try swapping caps with another good NES I have because both it and the top-loader still have color.
Can you explain more about what you said about using the new cap leg as a trace? I think my big caps positive pad is screwed. What do I trace to? Another positive?
I bought a lot of nes of 40 systems off of ebay a few years back, and ran across some 2 and 3 versions of the mother board, I found those though really old but the picture and sound quality was much better looking than any of the versions of 7 and on... I had more issues with the version 7 than with any others and most of those was from 1987. 2 years ago I sent you my nes that was version 1 mother board from 1985 and had you do the RGB mod with the 3-D printed connector, very awesome mod just had to play around with the connector sometimes but looked great
I realize it's a 4 year old video, but Adam, I found it a lot easier to remove the module from the main board first. It's especially easy with a desoldering gun. It easier that working through a 1/2" hole.
@@ctg8563 Actually if you do it a lot then you need to get one of the expensive ones like you see used here on youtube. They go for around $300. I don't do much so I buy the cheap little solder suckers on ebay for about $5. They work okay if you only need it occasionally and are disposable but the one I have is still in use after a year. I've done about 10 of these cap replacements using it.
Just note that it is recommended to desolder the pins from from the side of the board you need to desolder the caps from, not at the bottom. There is information online about how you can easily damage the vias or board by disordering from the bottom.
spelling error in the thumbnail. Also, just wanted to say thanks for posting that video showing how to use a solder pot. I got one a few weeks ago and it's been a life saver. I build mic cables and patch panels for mobile dj rigs.
I usually use high quality Nichicon and Rubycon caps sourced from the usual suspects. Pay attention to the lifespan in hours, along with the diameter and height of the capacitor packages in the drill down menus. There are several different 25v 100μF capacitors made by Nichicon with 5,000 hour lifespans. I have 10mm & 5mm diameter 25v 100μF packages on my bench. The 10mm packages will not fit in one location next to the 2,200μF smoothing cap on my ALPS RF/Power board. IMHO I'd stick with the original rated voltages to get the best picture you can manage. Yes you can use capacitors from China but I want repairs like this to last a long long long time. Cheap Chinese capacitors barfing their corrosive guts onto the boards tends to ruin your day. Heat is your enemy when you're desoldering. Lifted pads when you're using a 40W iron with a large tip and solder braid is common for inexperienced techs. A decent vaccum desoldering setup makes it easier to limit thermal damage to the board... lifted pads for instance or damaged ICs. The Chinese knockoffs of the Hakko F300 are fairly easy to find for around one Benjamin. If you have patience you can sometimes find the Hakko 470 series in pretty good nick... 471, 472, 472D etc. You can pull the power board fairly easily with a proper vacuum desoldering station that has a larger 2.3mm tip. The 2.3mm vacuum tip will remove almost all the solder from the shield connections on the motherboard without heating it up as much as braid. Obviously switch back to the 1.3mm or so tip to suck the solder off the capacitors. Remove the solder from the 5 pins on the PS board and not the motherboard. Leave the pins attached to the motherboard. The plating on the PS board is a little heavier so it's a little less likely to separate. A decent inexpensive but quality 9VAC 1.2A power pak is fairly easy to find. You can tack one onto your order to get over the magical $25...
Replaced 7 caps and still ain't working. 72 pin was already replaced. Darn. Think I got solder too big and touching something it shouldn't near the caps?
Could bad caps also be contributing to garbled video? I have a couple NES boards that have garbled video on any game I've used on them. If I use the same 72 pin cartridge connector on another NES that doesn't have trouble (and I've replaced the caps) the same carts work beautifully. I've gone through and cleaned the card edge connectors as well as tinned all of the pins on one of the system's to make sure they're making good connection with the cartridge connector, but the problem remains.
is there any way to desolder and detach the entire module for accessibility? I mean, it seems like taking it off would make life a lot easier, is there something about it that makes it more trouble than the wffort you save slipping caps in and out the hole?
I desoldered the RF module from an NES motherboard once. Getting those big tabs out is a nightmare. I couldn't get all of the solder out using either a desolder pump or braid, so the process was, melt the solder on one tab, pry the motherboard up an almost imperceptible fraction of a millimeter with a screwdriver, let it harden, move on to the next tab. After several hours, the RF module very slowly got worked off the motherboard, and eventually it came off. I imagine that getting it back on would be much easier (I wanted to use the RF module by itself for a project), and it would also probably have been easier if I had been using a decent soldering iron at the time. Maybe a hot air gun would have worked better too. Or ChipQuik but that stuff is crazy expensive.
+Adam Zey They do make really big tips for such obstacles, but it has to be on a high wattage machine and yeah getting heat to all the tabs at once it hard to do...
2.3mm tip in a Hakko 472D set at 840F will pull the solder fairly easily. You need that tip to desolder all five interconnect terminals from the PS board.
I have two NES systems, both original 1985 nes-001, one had a DC power brick bypassing the internal adapter because a cap leaked, the second one the internal adapter looks fine but it doesn't power on, may try just swapping the power adapter internally between the two of them, I added a "stereo" sound mod for the second ones power module (added on a second mono output for the right audio channel as my TV can already match up two mono l and r channels into stereo
I really could've used this video about a month or two ago. I swapped out the caps on my girlfriends' NES, and I went through the trouble of desoldering the entire power/RF unit from the main board. It was a huge pain, and this looks like a much better way to go about it. Also, Console5 has a wiki page with 4 different revisions of the power/RF board shown. console5.com/wiki/Nintendo_NES-001
+GameTechUS Console5 is my go to when doing component replacements. Fast shipping and extremely reasonable pricing without the hassle of having/finding each individual cap you need. If you are doing a mass amount of consoles at once I would just buy my own caps in bulk but their kits are great for repairing a single unit.
+Nicholas Siple I desoldered one about a month ago too. Uhhh what a pain. And now I find out I didn't have to remove it at all. Worse yet, it won't power on now. It's the first one I've broke. I'll get it going some day.
Plugged in my old NES system and it’s constantly popping through RF connection could this be that faulty capacitor as I have a clear picture in between the constant popping sound
I have one of the blue caps on the main board that has green corrosion on rhe flat end but I can't see the others I'm having sprites flashing in and out and blocks appearing on the right side of the screen on some games not sure if a recap would help also I don't have a desolder gun just an soldering iron and a manual cheap solder pump, will a recap fix it or is my nes dying?
it seems like it would be easier to just start by desoldering the block from the board, and then removing the cover. Is there a reason you dont do it this way?
The issue I read is that unless you do it properly, from the top of the module and not in the obvious place, it could be a problem. There is information on how to do it properly.
I just got an old NES and all is does is show a white screen. I replaced the 72 pin connector and cleaned it but it still just shows a whitish/greyish screen. What is the problem??
I found an old NES which was home to roaches a long time ago and the power module is covered with corrosion on both sides of the box. I've never really soldered before but I'm thinking of getting an iron and going about trying this. In my case I want to open the whole box and clean inside there as I suspect there are roach remains still inside.
I have an alps with the 1uf 50v, I was wondering when replacing the gap, I guess any of the caps, what's the safest volt rating to use on the replacement caps? My original cap volt rating is 50 25 16 6.3 volts. i know i dont need to match them or go higher rating. if i was to replace them all with 10uf what volt rating should i go with?
First off, all aluminum electrolytics should be replaced if they're over 25 years old. Especially the decouplers (10uF), regardless of their quality. Should I replace the caps in all my cartridges too? I noticed the ones requiring battery changes, I probably should replace those caps while I have the cartridge open and I'm soldering anyway. But should I open them all and replace the caps? Plan to use tantalums so nobody will ever need to again. Will it decrease their value? Also if you look closer at the NES mainboard, there are a few other places you could install a capacitor for decoupling (10uF), that they appear to not install to save money. I would install caps at those locations too because it was designed that way before the cost-cutting team stepped in. I'd probably also replace the 7805 with a 78SR for better efficiency, which means less heat, more available current, less load on the supply, longer life in general.
I just completed recapping a NES but put the main cap in backwards. Now it won’t turn on at all. I put in a new main cap he correct direction and still have no power. The 7805 and voltage rectifier are good. Any ideas?
hi my pal nes is only showing a black and white picture no colour both with rf and av cable tryed a few tvs nad its the same on all of them. Would a problem with the caps and corresion in the video power module be the most likely whats wrong?
Thanks for the video. My board doesn't look like any of those in your pictures at the end. Found a 2200, 100, 10 and a 1µF. Far in the back there is a last one for the HF audio which I didn't get to. If you like, I can send you the picture with my notes. cheers Alex
@@TehHijack Properly using braid is an art. Inexperienced techs with braid can cause a lot of damage very quickly. Vacuum stations are easier to use and make it a little harder to Bork boards and components. When you factor in the cost of board damage and having it fixed... assuming it can be fixed... Or... Farming out the work the price is more attractive. Also keep in mind that It's not a single use tool. Depending on how much you use it the approximately one Benjamin becomes cheap in comparison to farming out the work.
@@TehHijack I'm with TheOcculus on this one, over the years I've gotten much better at soldering, I still find a braid extremely hard to use, and I seem to do well (or at least okay) with a manual pump. However, the two borked boards of mine from a braid would like to have a talk with you about the Benjamin not being a justifiable cost.
There is also something called a solder sucker it's fairly inexpensive. It works just like the soldering gun but without powered suction.it heats and then uses a spring loaded plunger to suck the solder out of the joint
OK, HELP. I bought the rebuild kit and the cap kit. Perfect video. Plug in the audio rca and vid dies for good. Coax (the one that needs the grey inline box) still works. SECOND MACHINE THIS HAPPENS TO! Is there a fix or im stuck with fuzzy vid from vhf ish method? Thanks.
I'm investigating that as well (no conclusions yet as I'm an amateur :p ). But It's also a matter of counterfeits in the market. Test them with a multimeter before installing them.
@@gam85191 Thank you, I only knew about Rubycon (and it was my assumption as people always say that the caps on NES consoles are good, and they are Rubycon)
My NES crapped out last summer and am only now getting around to trying to fix it. I myself get it to turn on, but no video or audio. If I have no game in the LED blinks. If I have a game in it's solid! One day it worked, the next day it didn't. I've replaced the caps and the 7805 is fine as I swapped it from my working Super NES (it slipped my mind to simply check it's voltage). I even put the NES into the Super NES since they're interchangeable and the Super NES booted up just fine, so the 7805 was good and the one now in the NES gives off a 5.3v reading. My only course of action now, and I've already placed the order, is to replace the diodes housed in the power module. My board is an NES-CPU-08 so, these boards have the 4 individual diodes. If replacing them doesn't work then I'm at a dead end. I can't imagine the CPU or PPU being bad as the board is clean and they look "good as new".
Will this help any interference in video signal? I have diagonal lines using scart csync from retro gaming cables and weird fuzzy flickering using hdretrovision component. Just had the console modded by voultar for multiout and replaced the psu with a triad which didn't fix the issues with either set of cables hooked directly to any of the 3 televisions, or with retrotink2xpro, or ossc. Another thing about the flicker is it's not always there and it is only in small portions of the screen, and seem to be horizontal but they move around, top, bottom, middle, left right etc. The triad power supply might have helped it but it's hard to tell if any change was made. Nes front loader, expansion audio, tims rgb board, and the power filter cap was replaced. If anyone can help I would definitely appreciate it.
+GameTechUS Your probably right. That's really the only area that console would generate any real heat. Guess that the voltage regulator should have been placed a bit further away from the module.
+Robert NES816 Also, if a higher than necessary voltage is sent to the 7805, like using a 12v power supply, the more heat the 7805 will give off creating even more heated air movement.
Why would someone want to replace those caps? I have an NES that I think has water damage. It's been well cleaned and the 72-pin has been replaced. It won't play any games or send any input tot the television, but the LED flashes. Might this correct that problem?
after a cap replacement my unit doesn’t power up. The power board gets power past the rectifier however it’s not getting 13v out of the power regulator 7805 chip. But I am getting 13v at other points on the board. But nothing on the main cpu. Is it possible I may have damaged the printed circuit board where those 5 long pins join together?
Update. I mistakingly removed the boards by unsoldering the leads at the cpu board. And when I put it back together no power. I desoldered it again and realized the pads on the other side of the Motherboard had to be soldered too. Now it works.
hello there is a cap that is flat and light blue on the front of the board that is 2L47727. MINE DOESNT put out any readings on the o meter, do you know where i can find one or a replacement kind, and how much do you charge for the kit of caps for all the caps for the nes front load
Joseph Powell I don't know about your 1st concern but you can buy cap kits from Console5.com. Front loader kits are $4 and they have other stuff there too.
BTW Nintendo didn't make those RF modules, they were made by Alps Electric, here's their web site: www.alps.com/e/ when I made a portable NES in 2001 I removed that unit as it is completely unnecessary if you only want composite video. you just have to send the board 5v DC instead of the 9VAC that the module takes.
***** I have, but it seems like you're more likely to run into units using Alps modules. And, one could joke that the sound in an NES is powered by Alpine. ;-)
Marc-Antoine I personally wouldn't attempt it unless you have an electronic desoldering iron. Otherwise it will drive you nuts just to remove the solder.
Starsfallx I ended up selling it for parts about a week ago. It was an extra one I had anyways. But think it might be the resistors that they basically gave what they had.
I've been watching some of your videos kind sir. I'm just amazed on the dedication and professional service that you provide to the public! Will you be doing any Neo-Geo repair uploads in the near future? Anthony...
I screwed up and pulled caps from my Mitsumi Power & Modulator PCB and i thought I knew what caps were installed where but the list I had wasn't correct. I currently have C2, C6, C26 (25v 2200uf), c29, C31, and C32 (16v 10uf 6mm high). Left over I have 10v 100uf (10 mm high),2x 16v 10uf (10mm high), and 16v 100uf. Anyone have a placement list? (UPDATE) Went out to this fine gentlemen's website and looked at his layout and I think it helped me figure it out. C2 (16v 10uf) C6 (16v 10uf) C26 (25v 2200uf) C29 (10v 100uf) C31 (16 100uf) C32 (16v 10uf 6mm high) Now, I'll probably go up one voltage rating on each but how does that look?
Let me know if you have a discord channel for this. I have an NES that likes to dim randomly and go back to normal brightness and was wondering whats causing it to do that.
Dam, my NES-CPU-07 front loader I got for parts for 5$ wouldn't power on, so I recapped everything in the power board box and also the 3 caps on the main mother board just to be safe. Soldered fine, done many life saving recaps such as in my PCE Duo and Game Gear...but lo and behold I still don't get power using a proper AC adapter that DOES work with other NES-es. Every component looks good too and traces are clean, I'm out of ideas unfortunately. Oh and the switch looks good too, have a multimeter if anyone has an other ideas to test/look at.
Erik DeWitt my cpu 8 wont power on either after a capacitor change. It was fine before. Looking at the schematic I get the 10 volts coming out of the transformer. And after the rectifier I’m getting 13volts but at point 5 and 1 just beyond the 2200uf capacitor I’m not getting the 13vdc. That’s where it branches off to the main board to the power switch. Continuity is good. But no voltage is leaving the small power circuit board.
its less then $1 to replace all the can caps when I do it since I buy them in bulk so to be safe and since systems I reair are old I just replace them and i have not yet but have ben thinking about replacing the voltage regulator as well on the nes systems as i have just found my first unit the other day that hade a bad one not sure if i will replace it or sell the system for parts i no the system has damage and like a moron i guess not enuff sleep i installed the big cap back words witch blew right away and them bad boys are not cheap they cost me 40 cents each
Hello friend work you do is really amazing! I have a NES that is with the image without tuning but the audio is perfect, if I change all capacitors and resistors of RF box I can picture perfect again? I will leave a video for you to see how is my NES! I appreciate if you can help me! (Sorry because I used the translator)
Dam, my NES-CPU-07 front loader I got for parts for 5$ wouldn't power on, so I recapped everything in the power board box and also the 3 caps on the main mother board just to be safe. Soldered fine, done many life saving recaps such as in my PCE Duo and Game Gear...but lo and behold I still don't get power using a proper AC adapter that DOES work with other NES-es. Every component looks good too and traces are clean, I'm out of ideas unfortunately. Oh and the switch looks good too, have a multimeter if anyone has an other ideas to test/look at.
Did you test the 5V output from the TO220 LM7805 linear voltage regulator? Good quality 1.5A LM7805 linear regulators can be sourced from the usual suspects along with high hour rating Nichicon and Rubycon caps.
I have searched many times over the years for NES repair tutorials. Today this one just pops up in my recommended. I see its from 2016! Your tutorial also goes into more than just how to clean the cartridge pins or disable the lockout chip. None of my searches ever found this excellent tutorial. Thanks. Subscribed.
Thanks for this I recapped my nes few weeks back using this and it’s working perfect.
Hey I just wanted to thank you for making these videos. I have pretty decent soldering skills but I'm not super good at reading schematics. I'm definitely a visual learner and it iis really great to see someone walking through the process. I have a big pile of NES consoles that I'm getting ready to attempt to recap/refurbish. Thank you again!!!
The single person who thumbed down this video failed maths... However there is still time to correct that.
+Pixel Power I love that Brits (and perhaps others) call it maths. It's just "math" in the US. I love Zed instead of Zee too.
its contagious, there is 4 of them now
Left a front loader running The Lone Ranger for a couple hours today and when I got back to it the video was black and white! I get weird scrambled color graphics at boot that seem to stabilize as the color fades out and it turns to B&W (looks almost like it's melting off the screen). I'm going to try swapping caps with another good NES I have because both it and the top-loader still have color.
Can you explain more about what you said about using the new cap leg as a trace? I think my big caps positive pad is screwed. What do I trace to? Another positive?
I bought a lot of nes of 40 systems off of ebay a few years back, and ran across some 2 and 3 versions of the mother board, I found those though really old but the picture and sound quality was much better looking than any of the versions of 7 and on... I had more issues with the version 7 than with any others and most of those was from 1987. 2 years ago I sent you my nes that was version 1 mother board from 1985 and had you do the RGB mod with the 3-D printed connector, very awesome mod just had to play around with the connector sometimes but looked great
My large cap there, the 2200... the holes it goes into... are they supposed to have continuity between them? Cuz my board doesnt.
I always wondered if they could use the ceramic capacitors just only the main big one but the sound and video caps surfaced mounted capacitors
I did read where you may not want ceramic capacitors on certain places, like sound and video, but you would have to research.
So which one is the audio cap like an example c2 or c3 ect
I really enjoyed this video, thanks, I just started soldering and I'm doing well with it.
When will those front-loaders be available for sale and what kinda price will they command?
I realize it's a 4 year old video, but Adam, I found it a lot easier to remove the module from the main board first. It's especially easy with a desoldering gun. It easier that working through a 1/2" hole.
agreed
What kind of desolding gun is best for this job?
@@ctg8563 Actually if you do it a lot then you need to get one of the expensive ones like you see used here on youtube. They go for around $300. I don't do much so I buy the cheap little solder suckers on ebay for about $5. They work okay if you only need it occasionally and are disposable but the one I have is still in use after a year. I've done about 10 of these cap replacements using it.
Just note that it is recommended to desolder the pins from from the side of the board you need to desolder the caps from, not at the bottom. There is information online about how you can easily damage the vias or board by disordering from the bottom.
Yeah on the voltage regulator what compound is best for the voltage regulator all I have is thermal pad Arctic silver pad would this work for it
spelling error in the thumbnail. Also, just wanted to say thanks for posting that video showing how to use a solder pot. I got one a few weeks ago and it's been a life saver. I build mic cables and patch panels for mobile dj rigs.
+George Moore
Thanks, fixed! And you're welcome! It is a great tool in the right situation.
I'm going to upload a series of videos on how I make my unique patch panels. I'll make sure I'll give you a shoutout
I usually use high quality Nichicon and Rubycon caps sourced from the usual suspects. Pay attention to the lifespan in hours, along with the diameter and height of the capacitor packages in the drill down menus. There are several different 25v 100μF capacitors made by Nichicon with 5,000 hour lifespans. I have 10mm & 5mm diameter 25v 100μF packages on my bench. The 10mm packages will not fit in one location next to the 2,200μF smoothing cap on my ALPS RF/Power board.
IMHO I'd stick with the original rated voltages to get the best picture you can manage.
Yes you can use capacitors from China but I want repairs like this to last a long long long time. Cheap Chinese capacitors barfing their corrosive guts onto the boards tends to ruin your day.
Heat is your enemy when you're desoldering. Lifted pads when you're using a 40W iron with a large tip and solder braid is common for inexperienced techs. A decent vaccum desoldering setup makes it easier to limit thermal damage to the board... lifted pads for instance or damaged ICs. The Chinese knockoffs of the Hakko F300 are fairly easy to find for around one Benjamin. If you have patience you can sometimes find the Hakko 470 series in pretty good nick... 471, 472, 472D etc.
You can pull the power board fairly easily with a proper vacuum desoldering station that has a larger 2.3mm tip.
The 2.3mm vacuum tip will remove almost all the solder from the shield connections on the motherboard without heating it up as much as braid.
Obviously switch back to the 1.3mm or so tip to suck the solder off the capacitors.
Remove the solder from the 5 pins on the PS board and not the motherboard. Leave the pins attached to the motherboard. The plating on the PS board is a little heavier so it's a little less likely to separate.
A decent inexpensive but quality 9VAC 1.2A power pak is fairly easy to find. You can tack one onto your order to get over the magical $25...
Thanks the new power adapter worked for me
Replaced 7 caps and still ain't working. 72 pin was already replaced. Darn. Think I got solder too big and touching something it shouldn't near the caps?
Where can I go to replace caps I have a cdi 910 n it only shows a blue screen digital press won't touch it would a tv tech or PC tech fix it?
I’m jealous of how many NES front loaders you have, and this is coming from somebody that has 5-10 at a time lol
Could bad caps also be contributing to garbled video? I have a couple NES boards that have garbled video on any game I've used on them. If I use the same 72 pin cartridge connector on another NES that doesn't have trouble (and I've replaced the caps) the same carts work beautifully. I've gone through and cleaned the card edge connectors as well as tinned all of the pins on one of the system's to make sure they're making good connection with the cartridge connector, but the problem remains.
i used a "genesis" RF cord and my god did it clear the picture with no waves or that annoying static..... made a HUGE difference!!!!
is there any way to desolder and detach the entire module for accessibility? I mean, it seems like taking it off would make life a lot easier, is there something about it that makes it more trouble than the wffort you save slipping caps in and out the hole?
Trust me makes it a WHOLE LOT EASIER......fishing caps out of a hole.....not the way to go. It is VERY, VERY simple to unsolder that box.
How many NES's do you have?
2.
YOOO!!! this vid was great cant wait for the next one!!:)
I desoldered the RF module from an NES motherboard once. Getting those big tabs out is a nightmare. I couldn't get all of the solder out using either a desolder pump or braid, so the process was, melt the solder on one tab, pry the motherboard up an almost imperceptible fraction of a millimeter with a screwdriver, let it harden, move on to the next tab. After several hours, the RF module very slowly got worked off the motherboard, and eventually it came off.
I imagine that getting it back on would be much easier (I wanted to use the RF module by itself for a project), and it would also probably have been easier if I had been using a decent soldering iron at the time. Maybe a hot air gun would have worked better too. Or ChipQuik but that stuff is crazy expensive.
+Adam Zey
They do make really big tips for such obstacles, but it has to be on a high wattage machine and yeah getting heat to all the tabs at once it hard to do...
+Adam Zey I've done it w/ a hot air station; worked pretty well
2.3mm tip in a Hakko 472D set at 840F will pull the solder fairly easily.
You need that tip to desolder all five interconnect terminals from the PS board.
I have two NES systems, both original 1985 nes-001, one had a DC power brick bypassing the internal adapter because a cap leaked, the second one the internal adapter looks fine but it doesn't power on, may try just swapping the power adapter internally between the two of them, I added a "stereo" sound mod for the second ones power module (added on a second mono output for the right audio channel as my TV can already match up two mono l and r channels into stereo
I really could've used this video about a month or two ago. I swapped out the caps on my girlfriends' NES, and I went through the trouble of desoldering the entire power/RF unit from the main board. It was a huge pain, and this looks like a much better way to go about it.
Also, Console5 has a wiki page with 4 different revisions of the power/RF board shown.
console5.com/wiki/Nintendo_NES-001
+Nicholas Siple
Wish i'd have seen that page before making this vid, great tip of module removal and looks like I missed a couple caps...
Thanks!
+GameTechUS Console5 is my go to when doing component replacements. Fast shipping and extremely reasonable pricing without the hassle of having/finding each individual cap you need. If you are doing a mass amount of consoles at once I would just buy my own caps in bulk but their kits are great for repairing a single unit.
+Nicholas Siple I desoldered one about a month ago too. Uhhh what a pain. And now I find out I didn't have to remove it at all. Worse yet, it won't power on now. It's the first one I've broke. I'll get it going some day.
@@billschlafly4107 I don't get it.....it's not a pain, and if you find THAT difficult, just buy another board!
Plugged in my old NES system and it’s constantly popping through RF connection could this be that faulty capacitor as I have a clear picture in between the constant popping sound
I have one of the blue caps on the main board that has green corrosion on rhe flat end but I can't see the others I'm having sprites flashing in and out and blocks appearing on the right side of the screen on some games not sure if a recap would help also I don't have a desolder gun just an soldering iron and a manual cheap solder pump, will a recap fix it or is my nes dying?
Touched up the input jack wires and now I got no power. Tried again, still no power. Dangit.
it seems like it would be easier to just start by desoldering the block from the board, and then removing the cover.
Is there a reason you dont do it this way?
The issue I read is that unless you do it properly, from the top of the module and not in the obvious place, it could be a problem.
There is information on how to do it properly.
What does the rectifier do and how do I know if I need to replace it?
I bought a cap kit, but it doesn’t come with one.
I just got an old NES and all is does is show a white screen. I replaced the 72 pin connector and cleaned it but it still just shows a whitish/greyish screen. What is the problem??
I found an old NES which was home to roaches a long time ago and the power module is covered with corrosion on both sides of the box. I've never really soldered before but I'm thinking of getting an iron and going about trying this. In my case I want to open the whole box and clean inside there as I suspect there are roach remains still inside.
I have an alps with the 1uf 50v, I was wondering when replacing the gap, I guess any of the caps, what's the safest volt rating to use on the replacement caps? My original cap volt rating is 50 25 16 6.3 volts. i know i dont need to match them or go higher rating. if i was to replace them all with 10uf what volt rating should i go with?
Will this correct issue of getting no power? Everything so far checks good. Just don't have a way to test the capacitors
And? Did you fix it
My audio from RF is missing thanks to point the cap for that part :) !
hi do u know why my nes dont have any sound ? the video works perfect but no sound ...
First off, all aluminum electrolytics should be replaced if they're over 25 years old. Especially the decouplers (10uF), regardless of their quality.
Should I replace the caps in all my cartridges too? I noticed the ones requiring battery changes, I probably should replace those caps while I have the cartridge open and I'm soldering anyway. But should I open them all and replace the caps? Plan to use tantalums so nobody will ever need to again. Will it decrease their value?
Also if you look closer at the NES mainboard, there are a few other places you could install a capacitor for decoupling (10uF), that they appear to not install to save money. I would install caps at those locations too because it was designed that way before the cost-cutting team stepped in.
I'd probably also replace the 7805 with a 78SR for better efficiency, which means less heat, more available current, less load on the supply, longer life in general.
I just completed recapping a NES but put the main cap in backwards. Now it won’t turn on at all. I put in a new main cap he correct direction and still have no power. The 7805 and voltage rectifier are good. Any ideas?
What is the lead spacing for these capacitors?
Can changing the caps fix a NES that doesnt output video but turns on perfectly fine?
hi would u have a video on how to check power or a Nintendo NES ?
hi my pal nes is only showing a black and white picture no colour both with rf and av cable tryed a few tvs nad its the same on all of them.
Would a problem with the caps and corresion in the video power module be the most likely whats wrong?
Thanks for the video. My board doesn't look like any of those in your pictures at the end. Found a 2200, 100, 10 and a 1µF. Far in the back there is a last one for the HF audio which I didn't get to. If you like, I can send you the picture with my notes. cheers Alex
So much useful information again. Cant thank you enough! Thank you
I really need a de-soldering gun, it looks so much easier.
+Alan Ross unles you do this often enough to justify the $100+ cost of it id stick with braid or a handheld pump.
@@TehHijack Properly using braid is an art. Inexperienced techs with braid can cause a lot of damage very quickly. Vacuum stations are easier to use and make it a little harder to Bork boards and components.
When you factor in the cost of board damage and having it fixed... assuming it can be fixed... Or... Farming out the work the price is more attractive.
Also keep in mind that It's not a single use tool. Depending on how much you use it the approximately one Benjamin becomes cheap in comparison to farming out the work.
@@TehHijack I'm with TheOcculus on this one, over the years I've gotten much better at soldering, I still find a braid extremely hard to use, and I seem to do well (or at least okay) with a manual pump. However, the two borked boards of mine from a braid would like to have a talk with you about the Benjamin not being a justifiable cost.
@@TehHijack Albeit I was probably around 13 (not 23 like I am now) when I borked those boards. So there *is* that.
There is also something called a solder sucker it's fairly inexpensive. It works just like the soldering gun but without powered suction.it heats and then uses a spring loaded plunger to suck the solder out of the joint
OK, HELP. I bought the rebuild kit and the cap kit. Perfect video. Plug in the audio rca and vid dies for good. Coax (the one that needs the grey inline box) still works. SECOND MACHINE THIS HAPPENS TO! Is there a fix or im stuck with fuzzy vid from vhf ish method?
Thanks.
when u say a good quality capacitor , do u have any brands to suggest ?
I'm investigating that as well (no conclusions yet as I'm an amateur :p ). But It's also a matter of counterfeits in the market. Test them with a multimeter before installing them.
Try Rubycon, Nichicon, ELNA, they are the best you can get but there's lots of counterfeit
@@gam85191 Thank you, I only knew about Rubycon (and it was my assumption as people always say that the caps on NES consoles are good, and they are Rubycon)
Yeah where can I get the caps on the nes power supply and what is the best one to get and where can I get it
Yeah it powers on the red light doesn’t blink it stays on but no video or sound would this be the capacitor problem with my NES
My NES crapped out last summer and am only now getting around to trying to fix it. I myself get it to turn on, but no video or audio. If I have no game in the LED blinks. If I have a game in it's solid! One day it worked, the next day it didn't. I've replaced the caps and the 7805 is fine as I swapped it from my working Super NES (it slipped my mind to simply check it's voltage). I even put the NES into the Super NES since they're interchangeable and the Super NES booted up just fine, so the 7805 was good and the one now in the NES gives off a 5.3v reading. My only course of action now, and I've already placed the order, is to replace the diodes housed in the power module. My board is an NES-CPU-08 so, these boards have the 4 individual diodes. If replacing them doesn't work then I'm at a dead end. I can't imagine the CPU or PPU being bad as the board is clean and they look "good as new".
Will this help any interference in video signal? I have diagonal lines using scart csync from retro gaming cables and weird fuzzy flickering using hdretrovision component. Just had the console modded by voultar for multiout and replaced the psu with a triad which didn't fix the issues with either set of cables hooked directly to any of the 3 televisions, or with retrotink2xpro, or ossc. Another thing about the flicker is it's not always there and it is only in small portions of the screen, and seem to be horizontal but they move around, top, bottom, middle, left right etc. The triad power supply might have helped it but it's hard to tell if any change was made. Nes front loader, expansion audio, tims rgb board, and the power filter cap was replaced. If anyone can help I would definitely appreciate it.
I'm guessing you'd have audio and video issues if any of those caps decided to leak in that module? I've noticed that module accumulates dust quickly.
+Robert NES816 That's mostly because there is venting ports directly above it on the top half of the shell.
+GameTechUS No like packed with dust inside it. The other areas near or under the vents don't seem to attract dust as quickly.
+Robert NES816
It could be the box is acting like a chimney from the heat of the 7805.
+GameTechUS Your probably right. That's really the only area that console would generate any real heat. Guess that the voltage regulator should have been placed a bit further away from the module.
+Robert NES816
Also, if a higher than necessary voltage is sent to the 7805, like using a 12v power supply, the more heat the 7805 will give off creating even more heated air movement.
i have a NES 001, i have a feeling the cpu is done, could i email in person regarding repair?
if i damage c2 will it not power on?
Is there anyway I can pay you to do this for my nes?
Why would someone want to replace those caps? I have an NES that I think has water damage. It's been well cleaned and the 72-pin has been replaced. It won't play any games or send any input tot the television, but the LED flashes. Might this correct that problem?
flashing LED indicates that the PCB on the cart isnt making full contact with your 72 pin. Id replace it with the Blinking Light Win if I were you
after a cap replacement my unit doesn’t power up. The power board gets power past the rectifier however it’s not getting 13v out of the power regulator 7805 chip. But I am getting 13v at other points on the board. But nothing on the main cpu. Is it possible I may have damaged the printed circuit board where those 5 long pins join together?
Update. I mistakingly removed the boards by unsoldering the leads at the cpu board. And when I put it back together no power. I desoldered it again and realized the pads on the other side of the Motherboard had to be soldered too. Now it works.
hello there is a cap that is flat and light blue on the front of the board that is 2L47727. MINE DOESNT put out any readings on the o meter, do you know where i can find one or a replacement kind, and how much do you charge for the kit of caps for all the caps for the nes front load
Joseph Powell I don't know about your 1st concern but you can buy cap kits from Console5.com. Front loader kits are $4 and they have other stuff there too.
BTW Nintendo didn't make those RF modules, they were made by Alps Electric, here's their web site:
www.alps.com/e/
when I made a portable NES in 2001 I removed that unit as it is completely unnecessary if you only want composite video. you just have to send the board 5v DC instead of the 9VAC that the module takes.
+Tighe Lory
Alps wasn't the only one whom made modules for Nintendo. There are also modules made by Mitsumi Electric.
+Watcher3223 cool I have never ran into one by them!
*****
I have, but it seems like you're more likely to run into units using Alps modules.
And, one could joke that the sound in an NES is powered by Alpine. ;-)
So you can't take the whole module off in order to work in it ?
Marc-Antoine I personally wouldn't attempt it unless you have an electronic desoldering iron. Otherwise it will drive you nuts just to remove the solder.
I need help, my nes doesn't turn on, cent find the issue. Would it be the part where the power/av wires come in through?
ibiscar06 I have this issue too. Have yet to find the problem..
Starsfallx I ended up selling it for parts about a week ago. It was an extra one I had anyways. But think it might be the resistors that they basically gave what they had.
ibiscar06 you referring to the capacitors in the rf/power module?
Starsfallx yes, that, lol
I've been watching some of your videos kind sir. I'm just amazed on the dedication and professional service that you provide to the public!
Will you be doing any Neo-Geo repair uploads in the near future?
Anthony...
Good video thanks
I screwed up and pulled caps from my Mitsumi Power & Modulator PCB and i thought I knew what caps were installed where but the list I had wasn't correct.
I currently have C2, C6, C26 (25v 2200uf), c29, C31, and C32 (16v 10uf 6mm high). Left over I have 10v 100uf (10 mm high),2x 16v 10uf (10mm high), and 16v 100uf. Anyone have a placement list?
(UPDATE)
Went out to this fine gentlemen's website and looked at his layout and I think it helped me figure it out.
C2 (16v 10uf)
C6 (16v 10uf)
C26 (25v 2200uf)
C29 (10v 100uf)
C31 (16 100uf)
C32 (16v 10uf 6mm high)
Now, I'll probably go up one voltage rating on each but how does that look?
Console5 has good cap diagrams.
i need the lockout chip for nes front loader.
i like to know if you carry it?
and if so how much will it cost?
Thanks.
dan.
dan I can unsolder one from a junk board for $15 and free shipping.
sounds good to me.
Carbunkle56 can i email you directly?
Yes you can email me directly not a problem
I didn't remember me posting this until I saw it again. I can still get one if you like.
should make a discord for posting info such as this
Let me know if you have a discord channel for this. I have an NES that likes to dim randomly and go back to normal brightness and was wondering whats causing it to do that.
Uhhh... take the top plate off dude lol
Dam, my NES-CPU-07 front loader I got for parts for 5$ wouldn't power on, so I recapped everything in the power board box and also the 3 caps on the main mother board just to be safe. Soldered fine, done many life saving recaps such as in my PCE Duo and Game Gear...but lo and behold I still don't get power using a proper AC adapter that DOES work with other NES-es. Every component looks good too and traces are clean, I'm out of ideas unfortunately. Oh and the switch looks good too, have a multimeter if anyone has an other ideas to test/look at.
Erik DeWitt my cpu 8 wont power on either after a capacitor change. It was fine before. Looking at the schematic I get the 10 volts coming out of the transformer. And after the rectifier I’m getting 13volts but at point 5 and 1 just beyond the 2200uf capacitor I’m not getting the 13vdc. That’s where it branches off to the main board to the power switch. Continuity is good. But no voltage is leaving the small power circuit board.
its less then $1 to replace all the can caps when I do it since I buy them in bulk so to be safe and since systems I reair are old I just replace them and i have not yet but have ben thinking about replacing the voltage regulator as well on the nes systems as i have just found my first unit the other day that hade a bad one not sure if i will replace it or sell the system for parts i no the system has damage and like a moron i guess not enuff sleep i installed the big cap back words witch blew right away and them bad boys are not cheap they cost me 40 cents each
Hello friend work you do is really amazing! I have a NES that is with the image without tuning but the audio is perfect, if I change all capacitors and resistors of RF box I can picture perfect again? I will leave a video for you to see how is my NES! I appreciate if you can help me! (Sorry because I used the translator)
Sorry man, don't like this video. I believe that there are MUCH easier ways to do that....just, WOW....MUCH easier way.
Dam, my NES-CPU-07 front loader I got for parts for 5$ wouldn't power on, so I recapped everything in the power board box and also the 3 caps on the main mother board just to be safe. Soldered fine, done many life saving recaps such as in my PCE Duo and Game Gear...but lo and behold I still don't get power using a proper AC adapter that DOES work with other NES-es. Every component looks good too and traces are clean, I'm out of ideas unfortunately. Oh and the switch looks good too, have a multimeter if anyone has an other ideas to test/look at.
Did you test the 5V output from the TO220 LM7805 linear voltage regulator?
Good quality 1.5A LM7805 linear regulators can be sourced from the usual suspects along with high hour rating Nichicon and Rubycon caps.