I thought I'd remembered this, but I had to check first with a couple other techs I know - but for future reference, you don't have to attack the tuner board from underneath. With the front panel removed, the entire tuner assembly, including the front end, dial scale, etc all comes out just by removing about six screws, then lifts out, and tilts back. Easy peasy. Next time, eh? Love your work!
A note for folks working on a 9090 A or B rcvr if you do a refurb on these units check the Lamp board that the dial lamps go into they are prone to cold solder joints that will cause intermittent dial lamps. I have seen it on 5 out of 10 units and I do quite a few of these.
FOCUS YOU... Fine Camera! That had me laughing for a good minute. I converted the lighting on my old oscope to LED and with the phase shift it still flickered, my guess was they were too far apart. I had to toss in two diodes and a small filter cap. I also had an issue with the LEDs still glowing from the charge of the filter cap when it was off so I had to toss in a 4.7K ohm resister to bleed off the filter cap. That was the oddest conversion I've done and it looks like I might have to do it to my TrueTone D2626 I am restoring. I live in Florida but it still gets below 32 degrees in the winter. When a freeze snap is about to happen I'll turn on the water to a slight trickle and open the cabinets so with the heater running it will keep some of the pipping warm. However with below 0 temps I doubt that would work.
Very informative videos. Do not forget to change the capacitors across the transformer & power switch with some X/Y caps. Also, I see that one side of the power cord is connected to the chassis via a 1.5g resistor. If you replace the power cord with a polarized cord, you can make that grounding resistor to always connected to the neutral line.
Luv this! Grew up in the Bronx on Sansui monster pieces. I still have my 9090db, and my AU-20000 from when I was 22 years old. Please help me, as I'm in dire need of restoration of my 9090-DB and my AU-20000.
BTW, I found that I like to view LED polarity as this. When you look inside, one lead looks like a fine wire, that is the anode. The other lead attaches to what kind of appears to be a "cup". So I taught myself that cup is cathode. Cup/Cathode...and remember that cathode is negative or zero. I've had a few people say they liked that tip. Just putting it out there.
Thank you for your videos, very well done! My dad gave me a working Sansui 2000x that he hand carried from the ship overseas. He had given it to my grandpa who used it on a limited but often basis. It actually works just fine as is now that it has been passed on to me. I would be interested in your knowledge of this amp and what mods were likely done or should be done. I have seen some information on this in forums but would love to see somebody do a video on it. If you did a video of what should be looked at and or done, I could add some footage of doing the job. Just wondering. Thank you again for all of your knowledge that is so well shown on your videos.
Hey there. I think first time here, kinda like. Have always wanted me a good older Sansui amp or receiver. Here is what I consider a WARNING. DANGER WILL ROBINSON... LOL. The smaller through hole capacitors, largely used for filtering, audio boards and the like are being marked as NOT FOR NEW DESIGNS. I suspect that means that very soon these through hole components as well are going to be going to the wayside. Stock up now.... Cool video.
i had the black death on my akai 635d reel to reel transistors ,,it would drop out one channel ..found out they bought parts from dif suppliers..so all did not go bad
Just a word of caution -- the long/short lead can't always be used to identify cathode and anode (I have several hundred examples in stock with a long anode lead) on an LED. However, the flat or notch on the case always indicates the cathode.
Less a correction than a warning that all manufacturers don't adhere to the de facto standard. One of my favorite quotes: "The nice thing about standards is that there are so many of them to choose from." - Andrew S. Tanenbaum BTW - Thanks for doing these videos. I've been in electronics for 40+ years, but still manage to pick up tips from you on these 70s restorations.
Nice video as always! Veeery nice channel, love your contents! By the way, just checked at Mouser, first batch of the ksc1845 arrives on the 22nd jan..
Arrow has the KSC1845 in stock. Out of stock happens at the end of the year I have noticed, starting in September. The black stuff on the legs is non-conductive paint to prevent arching between the legs (early solid state). I don't know why people started to think it was corrosion as copper and zinc don't corrode black.
No, that black stuff isn't paint, it is most likely silver oxide or similar. Transistors did not have black leads when they were brand-spanking-new. Whatever those leads are plated with, it oxidizes and turns black. As noted in the video, this oxidation will climb up into the device and cause intermittent action and noise and eventually destroy it. I work on vintage stereo equipment for a living full-time, and the owner of the shop is an engineer and ham radio operator , with electrical degrees hanging all over the place. He has been repairing audio equipment since the early 1970s, and when he tells me it's oxidation, I believe him. Always best to replace any black legged transistors, especially in the tone control and output amplifier circuits, as that is where we see them cause lots of problems.
Great video as always! Thank you! Can you show how you did the source LED light replacement? I can't figure out how to remove them from the board as it appears the board is connected to the plastic housing unit. I'm afraid if I pull too hard, I'm going to break it.
Thank you for addressing the use of the Wima caps!! Just so happens I'm doing my first recap of a Kenwood KA-7100. I read that I could replace electrolytic caps
You are correct. Those are rated as automotive grade, which means that they can withstand wide temperature and humidity changes without affecting their value. They are very stable and accurate. That's why I use them. Thanks for watching!
Around the 38 minute mark, when you run a wire from the ground post up to the chassis screw, there looks to be another wire coming off the screw next to the capacitor common point. Could you tell me what that is? I have a 60hz hum at any volume and I think this could help. Really appreciate you posting these videos. They've been really helpful in repairing my 8080.
Hi Sam. That is a very important wire. It connects the ground point of the capacitors to the chassis ground. All other grounds in the amp are connected to this "star ground". Without that wire, the main filter capacitors won't be grounded to the rest of the circuit. Hope this helps.
Thanks so much! I see it now. I didn't realize that wire was running into the same piece of heatshrink as the capacitor ground, but that appears to be what's happening. Thanks again for all of the info.
-12 degrees? Here in San Antonio Texas it went down to 30 one time...I nearly needed a jacket...lol 112 in the summer though...I'm a former Detroiter, so I hate the heat.
Had a friend that lived in Houston. While I was visiting, I noticed a dial-faced thermometer on the front of his garage. The plastic dial melted!! Never did figure out the actual temperature that day :) At least you don't have to shovel heat!!!
What's the benefit of using a Nichicon Fine Gold cap on the protect relay board? Just something you had in stock, or are you expecting audio quality improvements?
It makes the relay sound much better as it's clicking in and out ;) All kidding aside, just ran out of the standard caps of that value so I used what I had. I try to wait until I have a big order before restocking to save on shipping. Thanks for watching!!
Love your videos Tony. My favorite subject, retrofitting leds into old equipment. By the way, are you a ham as well? I reckon you are. 73 de EI7KO in Ireland 🇮🇪
I have a Sansui 1000x and am fascinated watching how knowledgeable you are at reconditioning recievers you are. As say premeditative Maintenance, how much does it cost for doing the service your doing on this unit? Just curious about the refurbishment cost for a relative unit. Thank you for the general reply in advance I know its all varies but just looking at roundabout costs.
i have a yamaha cr-420 i got new blub s for it the wires are red and white and the dial light is 2 red wires but i can't get the meter blub s to work please help thanks
HI Tony, would you give the specs of the led you put in it ? Would be really helpfull i got the same problem with a SE09 and the original bulbs looks the same (8v 150ma)
I have an au 7700 amp, I brought in to have it repaired but the fellow told me it was starting to go bad, the switches and input board are failing and perhaps more but I wonder if it's possible to replace or repair these parts or if the unit can be restored properly etc..?
You could use an SSR circuit that's specifically designed for audio applications hifisonix.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Speaker-Relay-V1.03.pdf but modifying an existing circuit to add it wouldn't be cost-effective. Replacing with a mechanical relay costs only a few dollars, is pin-compatible, and reliable enough to last another 30+ years.
ebay has them just a bit too much & i ordered them from aliexpress so much cheaper don't forget to ask for 8V 'cause the seller doesn't list it ...good luck & gave fun! www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001800910880.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.77824c4d0lBtEB www.aliexpress.com/item/32857157571.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.77824c4d0lBtEB
I thought I'd remembered this, but I had to check first with a couple other techs I know - but for future reference, you don't have to attack the tuner board from underneath. With the front panel removed, the entire tuner assembly, including the front end, dial scale, etc all comes out just by removing about six screws, then lifts out, and tilts back. Easy peasy. Next time, eh? Love your work!
A note for folks working on a 9090 A or B rcvr if you do a refurb on these units check the Lamp board that the dial lamps go into they are prone to cold solder joints that will cause intermittent dial lamps. I have seen it on 5 out of 10 units and I do quite a few of these.
FOCUS YOU... Fine Camera! That had me laughing for a good minute.
I converted the lighting on my old oscope to LED and with the phase shift it still flickered, my guess was they were too far apart. I had to toss in two diodes and a small filter cap. I also had an issue with the LEDs still glowing from the charge of the filter cap when it was off so I had to toss in a 4.7K ohm resister to bleed off the filter cap. That was the oddest conversion I've done and it looks like I might have to do it to my TrueTone D2626 I am restoring.
I live in Florida but it still gets below 32 degrees in the winter. When a freeze snap is about to happen I'll turn on the water to a slight trickle and open the cabinets so with the heater running it will keep some of the pipping warm. However with below 0 temps I doubt that would work.
Very informative videos. Do not forget to change the capacitors across the transformer & power switch with some X/Y caps.
Also, I see that one side of the power cord is connected to the chassis via a 1.5g resistor. If you replace the power cord with a polarized cord, you can make that grounding resistor to always connected to the neutral line.
You almost used the AvE patented camera auto focus method. haha
Luv this! Grew up in the Bronx on Sansui monster pieces. I still have my 9090db, and my AU-20000 from when I was 22 years old.
Please help me, as I'm in dire need of restoration of my 9090-DB and my AU-20000.
Nice video again tony
I liked the VU meter upgrade method you did I will need to remember that trick thanks again
Colin from Scotland UK
BTW, I found that I like to view LED polarity as this. When you look inside, one lead looks like a fine wire, that is the anode. The other lead attaches to what kind of appears to be a "cup". So I taught myself that cup is cathode. Cup/Cathode...and remember that cathode is negative or zero. I've had a few people say they liked that tip. Just putting it out there.
Great tip! Thanks!
Frozen pipes may burst. We had this problem in Belgium in the winter of 1997. That was not a joke. Take care.
greetings from the Philippines, I have one of these Sansuis and try those things you did, thanks a lot man!
Thank you for your videos, very well done! My dad gave me a working Sansui 2000x that he hand carried from the ship overseas. He had given it to my grandpa who used it on a limited but often basis. It actually works just fine as is now that it has been passed on to me. I would be interested in your knowledge of this amp and what mods were likely done or should be done. I have seen some information on this in forums but would love to see somebody do a video on it. If you did a video of what should be looked at and or done, I could add some footage of doing the job. Just wondering.
Thank you again for all of your knowledge that is so well shown on your videos.
Hey there. I think first time here, kinda like. Have always wanted me a good older Sansui amp or receiver. Here is what I consider a WARNING. DANGER WILL ROBINSON... LOL. The smaller through hole capacitors, largely used for filtering, audio boards and the like are being marked as NOT FOR NEW DESIGNS. I suspect that means that very soon these through hole components as well are going to be going to the wayside. Stock up now.... Cool video.
Very good. Thanks to share your experience
The KSC1845FTA is in stock at Mouser as of 12/3/2018 part number 512-KSC1845FTA .08 each for 100 pieces.
i had the black death on my akai 635d reel to reel transistors ,,it would drop out one channel ..found out they bought parts from dif suppliers..so all did not go bad
Just a word of caution -- the long/short lead can't always be used to identify cathode and anode (I have several hundred examples in stock with a long anode lead) on an LED. However, the flat or notch on the case always indicates the cathode.
Thank you for the correction on that!
Less a correction than a warning that all manufacturers don't adhere to the de facto standard. One of my favorite quotes:
"The nice thing about standards is that there are so many of them to choose from." - Andrew S. Tanenbaum
BTW - Thanks for doing these videos. I've been in electronics for 40+ years, but still manage to pick up tips from you on these 70s restorations.
Nice video ! try minus 35 with the wind chill here in New Brunswick Canada !!
you're an einstein & thank you! NYC
Great video as always, even for so long ago😂
Nice video as always! Veeery nice channel, love your contents! By the way, just checked at Mouser, first batch of the ksc1845 arrives on the 22nd jan..
Arrow has the KSC1845 in stock. Out of stock happens at the end of the year I have noticed, starting in September.
The black stuff on the legs is non-conductive paint to prevent arching between the legs (early solid state). I don't know why people started to think it was corrosion as copper and zinc don't corrode black.
No, that black stuff isn't paint, it is most likely silver oxide or similar. Transistors did not have black leads when they were brand-spanking-new. Whatever those leads are plated with, it oxidizes and turns black. As noted in the video, this oxidation will climb up into the device and cause intermittent action and noise and eventually destroy it. I work on vintage stereo equipment for a living full-time, and the owner of the shop is an engineer and ham radio operator , with electrical degrees hanging all over the place. He has been repairing audio equipment since the early 1970s, and when he tells me it's oxidation, I believe him. Always best to replace any black legged transistors, especially in the tone control and output amplifier circuits, as that is where we see them cause lots of problems.
Great video as always! Thank you! Can you show how you did the source LED light replacement? I can't figure out how to remove them from the board as it appears the board is connected to the plastic housing unit. I'm afraid if I pull too hard, I'm going to break it.
Thank you for addressing the use of the Wima caps!! Just so happens I'm doing my first recap of a Kenwood KA-7100. I read that I could replace electrolytic caps
You are correct. Those are rated as automotive grade, which means that they can withstand wide temperature and humidity changes without affecting their value. They are very stable and accurate. That's why I use them. Thanks for watching!
nice work i am doing a recap of the PA board on a Technics SA-8000x should be fun..
Around the 38 minute mark, when you run a wire from the ground post up to the chassis screw, there looks to be another wire coming off the screw next to the capacitor common point. Could you tell me what that is? I have a 60hz hum at any volume and I think this could help.
Really appreciate you posting these videos. They've been really helpful in repairing my 8080.
Hi Sam. That is a very important wire. It connects the ground point of the capacitors to the chassis ground. All other grounds in the amp are connected to this "star ground". Without that wire, the main filter capacitors won't be grounded to the rest of the circuit. Hope this helps.
Thanks so much! I see it now. I didn't realize that wire was running into the same piece of heatshrink as the capacitor ground, but that appears to be what's happening. Thanks again for all of the info.
-12 degrees? Here in San Antonio Texas it went down to 30 one time...I nearly needed a jacket...lol
112 in the summer though...I'm a former Detroiter, so I hate the heat.
Had a friend that lived in Houston. While I was visiting, I noticed a dial-faced thermometer on the front of his garage. The plastic dial melted!! Never did figure out the actual temperature that day :) At least you don't have to shovel heat!!!
What's the benefit of using a Nichicon Fine Gold cap on the protect relay board? Just something you had in stock, or are you expecting audio quality improvements?
It makes the relay sound much better as it's clicking in and out ;) All kidding aside, just ran out of the standard caps of that value so I used what I had. I try to wait until I have a big order before restocking to save on shipping.
Thanks for watching!!
LOL! That's what I was thinking. Great video BTW. Keep up the good work!
Love your videos Tony. My favorite subject, retrofitting leds into old equipment. By the way, are you a ham as well? I reckon you are. 73 de EI7KO in Ireland 🇮🇪
Sir by any chance did you change the selector bulbs to for phono Aux tape ECT. Just was wondering?
Tony, you’re a true professional. Is there anyway to contact you via email? Thanks so much -Ben
I have a Sansui 1000x and am fascinated watching how knowledgeable you are at reconditioning recievers you are. As say premeditative Maintenance, how much does it cost for doing the service your doing on this unit? Just curious about the refurbishment cost for a relative unit. Thank you for the general reply in advance I know its all varies but just looking at roundabout costs.
sorry, what is the resistance value (ohms) that you used for each LED?
There is ac voltage at the lamp. Does the led lit up on ac voltage?
i have a yamaha cr-420 i got new blub s for it the wires are red and white and the dial light is 2 red wires but i can't get the meter blub s to work please help thanks
HI Tony, would you give the specs of the led you put in it ? Would be really helpfull i got the same problem with a SE09 and the original bulbs looks the same (8v 150ma)
I live Florida need a 9090 to be service .any advise?
Did you put non polar caps to the power supply board or polarized caps?
👍👍😎✌️🤟
I have an au 7700 amp, I brought in to have it repaired but the fellow told me it was starting to go bad, the switches and input board are failing and perhaps more but I wonder if it's possible to replace or repair these parts or if the unit can be restored properly etc..?
Doesn't sound right to me. Whats the amp doing ?
I have a whole bunch of those Ksc1845 if you need a bunch, let me know
have ever featured a Carver m1.5t?
2SC2240 can do.
Aye Xray.....
Is there any way to contact you ,need a service for a 9090
To bad you don’t show hot to change the LED lights.
-12F sounds even worse in Centigrade at -24.4...C
Is it better to replace the mechanical relay with solid state electronic relay?
Why didn't you film the tuner alignment would have been interesting to see that, maybe next time.
You can't use those in the audio path. They only work for things like mains power.
You could use an SSR circuit that's specifically designed for audio applications hifisonix.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Speaker-Relay-V1.03.pdf but modifying an existing circuit to add it wouldn't be cost-effective. Replacing with a mechanical relay costs only a few dollars, is pin-compatible, and reliable enough to last another 30+ years.
hello there,,, the main fuse of my sansui blew after light went out,,, whats a good replacement main fuse,, thanks guys
wima is not suitable in signal path it ll make the sound harsh and shrill electrolytic is very soft and make vintage sound
Where can i order the led for the vu meters ?
ebay has them just a bit too much & i ordered them from aliexpress so much cheaper don't forget to ask for 8V 'cause the seller doesn't list it ...good luck & gave fun!
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001800910880.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.77824c4d0lBtEB
www.aliexpress.com/item/32857157571.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.77824c4d0lBtEB