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NEVER buy a car with these issues! The CAR WIZARD shares what to lookout for when buying a used car
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- Опубліковано 7 сер 2024
- Let the CAR WIZARD 🧙♂️ show you what to lookout for when inspecting a used car. Let his years of experience save you from buying a potential time bomb of a car.
See the Fleetwood one last time before its new owner picks it up.
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One trick an old mechanic taught me: start the car and remove the cap where you pour the oil in. Then, put your hand over the opening. In a new car, you will feel no air puffing out. The worse the engine, you will feel light puffs of air in time with the combustion. A dying engine will actually have oil spitting out with the strong puffs of air. Hope this helps someone.
Many 4 cylinder engines have excessive crank case pressure though so keep that in mind too.
That bs don't work anymore this ain't 1950 anymore all these new motors spit back
Moral of the story: Hoovie violated every one of the warnings.
No suprise there
He could have saved everyone 20 minutes and just said, "don't do what Tyler does".
The biggest and best warning Wizard gave is no title. If you don't have a title all you have is a very big paper weight that rolls. Unless your intended use is strictly off road or for parts and even then some scrap yards will not haul away the carcass unless there is a title to ensure it's not a stolen and stripped car. Make sure the name on the title matches the name on the sellers drivers license and also do a quick check to match up the I.D. number to the number on the title too. DMV's have made mistakes on titles and when you go to register and the I.D on the car is off by one digit you have a whole new nightmare to go through with your local DMV.
Hoovie is a warning to all car groupies. :)
Well he has a reputation to maintain
Never buy a car with these issues:
-It's an old Bentley
-It was once "imported" to Russia
-It's selling for a suspiciously low price
A Hooptie in the making.
@@davidjacobs8558 It's a joke about hoovies russian bentley.
...or it´s an VW/Audi (T)FSI oder TDI Engine.... ^^
Or the car comes back as stolen.
The Bentley is great car for baller status:
Me: nah, hard pass
Don't tell a seller you have cash in your pocket. Scams posing as cars for sale to rob the shopper upon arrival
I also ask about titles first. "I don't have it..."
Then you don't own the car.
Or that there isn't a lien holder listed...
Unless you’re planning on trailering that car to a track or using it on a farm or something there’s not a whole lot you can do without a title because you can’t get tabs and will get pulled over when you try to drive it on any Public road
Being upfront with the issues on a car pretty much made people wanna buy my car more lol. Honesty really pays off.
Yes, I have sold used cars to the first person who came to see them, by having a recent pre-purchase inspection from a honest repair shop...
I have bought and sold many cars in my lifetime. I would rather lose the sale instead of trying to hide any issues. I do my best to disclose any issues. I could never be a used car salesman, lol....
opposite for me. Had a very detailed ad. Sat for 3 months. Made a shit ad and was up front with the guy when they came to look and it sold right away. People dont want to read a novel and the average buyer has no Idea what a e60 545i n62 4.4 v8 is. Just had to post as bmw 5 series and away she goes.
Same thing a while back my buddy got a 2010 WRX & it spun a bearing a cpl months afterwards...he was up front about that and any other possible issues on it and a guy came hauling a trailer & with cash n all the necessary things within a day or 2 to buy the car haha.
I gave the guy post accident pictures showing him the damage and he bought it and was happy with the purchase. Another time I sold a car, when at the dmv doing the title transfer I put the car in the ON position to check the mileage and forgot to turn it off (push button start). It was a cold February morning with an old battery so it drained. By the time he got in to drive away the car wouldn't crank. I had already left. I told him to change the battery and I wrote him a check for the price of the battery and put it in the mail. He cashed it a week later.
My dad was a good old time mechanic. One tip he gave me for checking head gasket health, with a warm engine use the dipstick to put a drop of engine oil on the hot exhaust manifold. The oil should smoke, not boil. If it boils even a bit there’s water intrusion into the oil.
You need to look under the car and make sure the frame and under carriage isn't rusted away. Lots of gorgeous looking cars are absolutely totaled underneath.
If you use a center puch for wood working, by pushing it only with your palm, it will go right thru rust that was undercoated...
I remember when I was about 20 years old, and my younger sister asked me to look at a car on a used car lot for her. When we got there, I looked over the body and then knelt down to look underneath. Floor totally rusted out , and the carpeting hanging down through the big hole. left right away.
WELCOME TO THE RUST BELT
Right? Swapping in a used engine/transmission would be cheaper than trying to restore a rough rust bucket
@@Mike-vi9do I saw a 1990 f150 for sale for 1200...manual too and those things are tanks
Too bad I could poke a hole into the frame with a flat head 😂😂😂
It most likely came from out of the area because rust really isn’t an issue in the Seattle area
Mrs. Wizard should be infront of the camera more! Not many people are able to speak that freely on UA-cam. She's doing a good job
Yea. She has that annoying teacher voice 😆
I’m with A.Z., she’s doing a good job
I like her voice. Mr. and Mrs. Wizard compliment each other.
Hottie
@@lancairw867 lol same, I'm like noooo shit
If i turned up at a Car for sale and it doesn't start i would simply walk away.
If i show up to another deal and the ad says clean car theres nothing wrong and teh thing doesnt start, Im dropping their key in a snow pile because im getting real sick of this shit lol.
Also important to mention when looking at the gauges, when you turn the ignition into accessory the dash tests itself, lighting up every single warning light. If one or more dont light up, probably someone disconnected them to hide a check engine light or god knows what else.
Nah not disconnected. pull the cluster, remove the needles and you can take of the instrument “plate”. A little dap of putty over the LED light and put everything back together.
I checked a car for a friend once, everything looked fine. And one year later he found that ABS light was soldered to Check engine light so they went on and off together xD He found out when he went to service for regular service and they found error code for ABS, but light was off, so they investigated.
I own a Volkswagen, my engine light will always be on. If it's not, I worry.
Do you ever get any Honda S2000's in your shop. I had a 2007 and it was one of the funnest, easiest to maintain cars I have ever owned. Maybe you can do a segment one of those. Thanks Wizard.
Depends on the car...best bet is to own an autel scan tool. At $120 it pays for itself the first time you avoid a diagnostic fee.
Don't forget to check to see if someone took the check engine light bulb out to hide problems. When you start the car, the light should come on briefly and turn off. If it doesn't light up at all, run away!
Either that or the check engine light was burned out from being on all the time 😂
Check engine light on the dashboard can be cheap to expensive repairs.
There is a time when the Check engine light will go out like normal but go on when you get it on the highway. Example, my 1981 Bonneville. The Check engine light comes on when the car gets above about 40 miles an hour. Below that it goes out and doesn't come on. It has an issue at least according to the code with the Vehicle speed Sensor.
Determining whether it has a clean title or not is the FIRST thing you do, not the last. Can save you from wasting a whole lot of time.
First thing out of your mouth "would you show me the title, please".
More Mrs. Wizard please! She's great on camera and obviously knows her stuff!
Dont play radio during test drive
Solid advise! Test the radio out during test drive to check for interference and all but only briefly.. the test drive should be done with no noise !
And always be suspicious if the seller switches it on. The sound can and will hide a multitude of sins.
The title stuff is so, so important. I'm astounded at the number of "no title" ads on Facebook marketplace.
That's usual because they have a title loan or some other BS against the title or it was abandoned, so they say! Happens a lot here in Arizona...
The one I've seen a lot here is, it needs a key programmed because I lost the key! If they aren't willing to buy a $200 key to make thousands more then there's more to the story...
But they will give you a bill of sale. Like that means anything.
Whoever has the title, owns the car.
Without a title it's a parts vehicle. Even then in my state you can't sell the remains to a salvage yard unless you cut the thing in two
This dude knows cars! One of the best car channels on youtube! I use a program on my laptop ua-cam.com/video/3LUayHH1yZA/v-deo.html to manage the maintenance and keep a detailed vehicle maintenance log for all my vehicles. When I am buying a used car I love it if the owner can provide that type of information so that I know the vehicle was properly maintained. I also check the brake pedal. If the pedal shows little wear even if the vehicle has high mileage I know most of the miles are highway driving which is much easier on a vehcile.
The Automotive Wolf software is excellent. It makes managing my vehicles A LOT easier.
Thanks for the tip on that software. I really like it :)
"I cant afford this anymore and I got something new"
If everyone in the US was as honest and hardworking as these people, America would be great again!
Turning MAGA into MEGA *thumbs up emoji*
Also, make sure the vehicle VIN matches the VIN on the title.
I would buy a service manual for particular car that I'm looking at or call the dealer to ask besides the dashboard, what other locations on the car would the vin number be. I know on the engine block, The fire wall on the engine, drivers side door sill and other places.
Like car Wizards Motto
No title, turn around and walk away.
@@supreme1096 --This happened to a friend of mine, the Title Vin did not match one under windshield...
@@randybeard6040 The 1st thing I ask before I go out and look at the car is the title. Do you have the title? Is the title in your name or are you selling the car for someone else? If you are selling the car for someone else, is the owner's signature on the back of the title? Is the title in your possession? If not, can you get a copy of the title from the DMV where you are located? Listen to his answers, That will tell you whether or not you would take a look at the car.
Should you go? Take a friend with you. Get this product called fixd for your OBD2 & download the app it's awesome. it will tell about any service codes even when they disconnect the battery for a day or longer. If it's older than 1996 bring the car to a mechanic and pay $100.00 give or take.
Go with your gut, if it's not right, walk away
Also if you have a scanner pull the vin out of the computer and make sure that matches too. Even most of the cheap scanners do it.
“My mechanic said” guys are the worst. Or “ten minute fix” but they are “so busy” they can’t get to it. Then goes on to say how they can meet anytime. Last but not least is the old “check engine light is on needs an O2 sensor”.
You missed out some major things wizard. Panel gaps, mismatched paint, knocking on body parts to check for filler, checking if the window glass is matching and consistent, checking for overspray, opening the trunk and lifting the carpet... All these things can indicate if a car was in an accident and potentially structurally compromised
On cars with front & rear registration plates it's a good idea to check they match too.
@@drunkenhobo8020 A good dodge with wheel trims is put matching front and rear wheel, they don't necessarily need to match nearside and offside
I can't fathom how anyone would buy a vehicle on the promise the engine is fine yet it can't be started.
People do it all the time.
I work in auto parts and I heard story after story about how ... this car was a great deal on it ... and it turns out to be a Euro, Cadillac, or other former high end car with HIGH mileage or a car that smokes just a little, it seems to lose antifreeze every few days ... etc. etc.
Now the free cars ... you should know better ... but so many people only look to the status that a particular type of car will exude to others.
I've had people that had purchased higher end (high milage or high age) Porsche, BMW, Cadillacs, Mercs, etc ... that have NO IDEA how much is cost to maintain said vehicles.
Knew a poor ... poor ... guy who bought his dream car at auction through a dealer he worked at. A 2010 Porsche 911 (turbo with about 50k miles) for around 30k ... great price right ... until he found out it needed brakes. The vehicle had the Ceramic Disk Brake rotor option ... he quickly discovered WHY it was at the auction for such a low price.
Front brakes ... (current prices rounded up)
-----Rotors $6,000 each
-----Calipers $1,000 each
-----Pads $500
Rear Brakes ....
-----Rotors $5,300 each
-----Calipers $700 each
-----Pads $500
Total $27,000
Somehow he was able to get his money back ...
Needless to say ... DO YOUR RESEARCH ... You have a portable computer that you carry with you pretty much everywhere you go (your smart phone silly) the internet IS NOT just for pron and social media ... the breath of human knowledge is at your fingertips ... use it.
I bought two like that last week. One was runs fine but not right now, the other was ran when parked. I’m a sucker for punishment and don’t really like paying more than $400 for my DD.
I've bought cars completely sight unseen before. Sometimes you gotta gamble
@@getchasome6230 When buying over the Internet, always pay for an inspection by a ASE Master Mechanic first...
Back in 2007, I went to a Chrysler dealer to check out a 1989 New Yorker. I'd had one, wanted another. Red flag #1 - "the car's in the shop for brake work." I go over there, they have it on the lift, and I can see major rust all over the underside. Red flag #2 - "it's done, you can drive it but the brakes are weak." Red flag #3 - BAD misfire, and yes the brakes were real, real bad. I had to drive hours to even go see that car... I was absolutely livid.
These Chrysler New Yorker's are not good vehicles anymore. There are no longer on the road.
Chrysler New Yorker???? Those are junk
@@diablocls55 I already agreed with your answer.
Mark Dumagpi did I ask?
@@diablocls55 No, you just made a comment about the New Yorker.
Basically ask yourself "Would Hoovie buy this car?" If the answer is yes, don't buy it.
he did buy a land cruiser once, only money spent was on upgrades lol , maybe the only good one to buy
Got it. Don't buy anything.
Another tip is to take the oil cap off and put your hand over it. Easy way to find excess blowby. Old mercedes diesels like a 300D would even float the oil cap above the engine if the motor was worn out.
Me: "the engine is running a bit rough."
Seller: "oh that's a cheap fix it just needs some new spark plugs."
If someone ever tells you something is a "cheap fix," ask yourself: then why haven't they fixed it?
My rule of thumb is "don't buy trouble."
Used-car-only lot salesman told me I could change the supposedly bad MAP sensor myself, and that I could fix the squealing serp belt with some kind of spray. I politely declined to go any further at that point.
I always ask that question if it's that cheap then why don't you fix it... Then they're like oh well it's going to cost $1,000 more lol...
Unless it has no body issues
when you first get there, start the car. let it idle the ENTIRE time you're there. make sure you chat them up for a while. you REALLY want that car to idle for 30 minutes minimum. if it has a head issue or busted block it will overheat while running. then it blows up before you buy it.
Never buy a car with these issues:
It was Hoovies.
Unless the Wizard can vouch for it
Tarvish was doing the car wizard a big favor.
unless for $5
well... actually he probably sunk $3k into the car minimum, so maybe wouldnt be bad to buy
Back in the days when cars were fun to fix, my dad used to say: you can fix every thing but body, so make sure that the body is in good condition when buying a used car.
He was right! Rust and bad bodywork is very expensive to fix. Painting alone will kill most budgets.
Wizard needs to buy a fubar XJS to just have as a shop ornament. Seeing one in the background is just clickbait for me
Xjs LS swap is the bomb tho....
XJS's have no head room, so it is right out for Da Wizz.
Or put one on a plinth out in front of the shop, a la Top Gear.
The shop ornament is the Bentley Turbo R
And make sure it's a 12 cylinder. Unlimited number of videos. Any 12 cylinder Jag from that time will do. Any condition. They broke when new. As a kid went to a shop with friend. They had a 12 cylinder Jag there. Hood was open and they were working on some electrical problem. I know. Shocking. I had never seen so many wires in a car engine. I had no idea how they knew where everything went.
It will sound obnoxious, but I try to avoid buying from smokers. The car will smell like an ashtray and they seem to neglect maintenance. You’llknow, because the car will be dirty when you go to see it.
This one ! Sooo true !! Smokers cars are an INSTANT turn off for me . You're so right in saying that they don't seem to care for maintenance of the car and I 100% agree. I work as a mechanic and I've had so many smoker cars that come in filthy with old beer bottles still in the cup holders... and the car is just a mess...
Same with buying a house owned by smokers. Every inch of that house needs to be cleaned and painted including inside cabinets otherwise it will always smell of smoke.
I fell for the aftershave down the defroster trick.hides the antifreeze smell leaking from the heater core. my younger years so don't fall for it.
ALSO, make sure the engine in the car you are looking at is cold when you start it. If the engine is warm, it might not show problems the engine has when cold. It might knock, tick, smoke, or run terrible when cold. I bought a car that ran great when I looked at it, but when I went to start it up the next morning I found out that it ticks when cold.
especially hemis lol I've seen so many 5.7s that ticked like crazy when cold but sound fine once warmed up
Ticking when cold is normal for some engines.
@Byron Manza only if it ticks when cold and it starts slowly fading away as engine warms(~5min+). Also when the engine has warmed up to working temp remember to test a warm start also! So shut it down and see how engine starts and idles hot. Sometimes even in newer cars(2010+) some of the seals have weakened, and when engine gets hot and expands it might leak and lose compression. It is most noticeable when you turn the engine over hot and then keep an eye on the rpm how it fluctuates.. In a good engine it should immediately settle at ~750-900rpm and hold steady.
Good video. I have also heard that if the seller will not let you take the car you are considering to your trusted mechanic for checkout-DO NOT BUY. Also, if you buying one of those old cars, like the Cadillac, you might want to take a magnet. I live in Texas, and years ago, I knew a person who brought an old Buick down from Michigan. The car had rust where you might think rust could never occur. Nothing like a Texas car. He finally filled it full of Bondo, got a cheap paint job and sold it!
When the wizard opened up that audi hoood... bad memories suddenly rushed into my mind... audi...never again...
If you want to spend a lot of money on endless repairs, get a used Audi
Ya especially the petrol car's
@@JoeyP322 just the thought of dismantling the front area of the car to work on common maintenance stuff...
Do not buy an Audi or any German vehicular brand, ever.
@@md2k8 that is so true
Get/use/have someone with a scan tool that can check the “live”‘data, and look for engine misfires, and whatnot. Cause seller may have cleared the codes before u got there. Need to always scan LIVE data. Also, on cars with digital/electronic mileage indicators, compare the scan tool mileage reading with what the vehicle is showing.
A '92 Paseo I bought 10 years ago, I checked out as much as I could underneath the hood. Checked the fluids, checked the backside of the oil filler cap for water/ oil residue, etc. Wasn't for another year that I realized the hood underneath was a different color, and one of the fenders had been repainted. I lucked out 'tho, the car served me fine for years.
Another issue that you must check. Make sure the Airbag light comes on when you start the car, and then goes off. Airbags are very expensive to replace, and a lot of cars that have been in an accident and are fixed, the seller does not want to spend the thousands of dollars to replace the airbag, and disconnects the airbag light instead.
People have died because of this, where they get into an accident and the airbag is missing. This is far more common than people realize.
I’m semi-retired after 30 years in the car business. In my experience there are by far more crooked private party sales vs. dealers. All the time we had new customers bringing in a just purchased private party car with major problems. I felt sorry for their expensive mistakes that cost them way more than what they “saved” by avoiding dealer markup. The basic issue with private party sales is they only have to sell this one car with no concerns of repeat business. A lot of people are morally challenged and feel no pain when dumping a dying car on an unsuspecting buyer. They want YOU to take the loss.
There are some pretty shady major dealerships out there too. I've walked way from a couple of deals because what the salesman had said about the vehicle did not make sense. Desperate for his commission? Manager put him on notice for that month? Perhaps. I've dealt with both and all I've got to say is if your are going to buy, do your homework first. Don't get sucked into the pitch. Leave your emotions at home. If you are dealing with a private seller, again, do your homework. Get AAA to look it over. Get a mechanical inspection done. Get it up on a hoist and LOOK at it. And make sure you can get title for it too. It's unfortunate but some people are their own worst enemy.
@@codyluka8355 no doubt it goes both ways - its just that I saw more bad private party cars than bad dealer cars. I only worked for reputable dealers - one of my criteria when looking at changing dealerships was how well the dealer performed after the sale customer care.
@@Thomas63r2 Absolutely the aftercare of a customer is the bigger part than the sale itself. The dealership does not make very much on the sale of itself but on the service of the vehicle in the service department. Buying a used vehicle from a dealership (reputable), used to be relatively hassle free with the inventory being mostly trade ins. Now inventories are sourced through auctions and commercial lease returns with little of its history known. Some dealers, like many private sellers, will try to sell you anything but you need to fully check the vehicle before writing that check. If you are buying a 10 year old vehicle with high mileage (most dealerships wont), you're going to go to a private seller, hoping for the best. But you have to do your homework or you're going to buy someone else's nightmare. I'm glad you have a conscience...most do not unfortunately. It's very easy to get caught up in the moment.
What kinda dope you smoking? There's a reason they're called stealerships
The best advice I ever got, if someone is Selling a car, 90% of the time it’s because something is wrong with it and they’re tired of fixing it. The best used car to buy is from someone who doesn’t want to sell their car. Usually such a car is well-maintained, and you have to convince the person to give it up, because they know it’s good also
Absolutely correct.
yep , people sell cars when something is wrong and theyd rather buy another newer car isntead of wasting a *payment * on fixing the old one
The other 10% have the new replacement in the driveway. A lot of people also sell their cars after 4-7 years to get a brand new one. But they are easy to spot. Usually well off, cars are clean, the new one is in the driveway next to it (estate sale/grandma who just passed away cars aside). Then there is the never-ending pile of hoopties and oddballs past the first owner... Almost not worth bothering with unless it's just a beater to get to work and back.
good cars are passed down the family or friends.
@@plektosgaming ive had good luck with high kms vehicules. People who have a long commute have to have the cars in good shape. And highway kms are not as hard on the car than city kms
Here is a good tip! : Check the checking of bulbs before starting the engine. All of the bulbs will flash before starting up the car to check the bulbs themselves. Some people take the bulbs off and mislead the customers to thinking the car does not have that specific problem.
Make sure the title matches the VIN!!! I've been with 3 different friend's buying vehicles where the seller provided the wrong title. It was always the case where they simply grabbed the wrong one, but you never know if someone is trying to scam you because the VIN is one digit different.
Sorry but the odds of having one digit off is next to impossible. I have a 43 yr old C10 that the 4th to the last digit is a 4 instead of 7 on the title. could be a typo error.
@@guitarprepnplus1 I was speaking more towards the possible event of a faked title or stolen/altered vehicle tag. I agree it would be highly unlikely to have a legit title for a vehicle with the vin off by a single digit. And for older vehicles such as yours I would imagine there's countless clerical errors when everything is written by hand in a rush. Hell even today they still make mistakes and screw stuff up
Shipping a classic car to Australia can be a nightmare if the authorities in customs determine the vehicle had any parts that contained asbestos during it's life. Plenty of stories of cars sitting for months at port while the car is stripped down to the frame as it undergoes a thorough examination. Destructive testing can also be used before the car is given the okay to enter the country.
I bought a car really cheap BECAUSE the seller was selling it because the brakes did not work. I checked and the master cylinder was empty I made a very lowball offer he accepted. I came back with a friend to pick up the car so I could drive it home and brought brake fluid. Brakes worked fine on the way home! Tripled my investment.
I’m ready for a run of videos where the wizard goes with fans to buy a used car.
I’m usually more suspicious of a clean engine bay from a private seller than a dusty one. Car lots usually do a full detail including the engine bay for the lot, but private sellers rarely splurge on that unless they’re cleaning up leaks
Or they just hate a dusty engine bay ? My engine bay is clean as a whistle almost all the time BUT my engine is in perfect condition. I just hate dirty cars in and out hhaha
A few more tips: 1. Tell the seller you want to inspect the engine Cold (feel the radiator hose). Helps discover if it has a cold start issue, and some problems disappear once the engine warms up. 2. Before even going to see the car ask who's name the title is in. If its an open title or some "friend, etc" the seller is probably a car flipper. Also make sure the title isn't "Salvage or Reconstructed" which will be a BIG problem when you title it. 3. Beware if the engine and undercarriage look super clean (another car flipper tactic). Better to be a little dirty. Easier to spot leaks. 4. Scan the car an make sure none of the I/M Monitors show "Inc" (incomplete). That means the codes were erased so the check engine light is off (but it will come on again).
5. Make sure the VIN on the car matches the title, and carefully check all info on the title. 6. If the inspection expires in a month or two there is a good chance they are selling it cause it needs repairs to pass. 7. Only exchange money at the title office. 8. Never look at a car at night or in the rain.
It costs a bit, but if you have a good mechanic and can convince the seller to let you have the car checked out, they can catch more than the casual car buyer.
The last car I bought had the title. But it had 2 titles. The guy had thought he lost the title. Applied for a new one and gave me the "lost" one. Went to register it and the title was no good. I was pissed. Luckily it was an honest mistake and he found and brought me the good title to me at the DOL.
Hah, I did that. Lost the title, got a replacement title and sold the car. A few weeks later, found the original title. 😄
The biggest thing to do is to make sure you have it inspected by your trusted mechanic.. If someone has a problem with you taking it to a shop before you buy pace it for the next sucker.. People never buy without going to your shop and if the owner says no say goodbuy have a nice day.. Never buy without a inspection...
As someone whom has bought a used car or two thru the years I generally follow as many of the excellent suggestions that you put forth in your video concerning checking out a used vehicle. I bought a used 2009 Nissan Frontier basic King Cab truck this past May with 165K miles I thoroughly inspected for all the red flags you put forth in your video underhood and underneath and it all looked good on this vehicle. Being near the part of the year when it was long daylight I overlooked to check the lighting systems. This fall I discovered that I have no low beam headlights; after inspection, the body control module has been diagnosed as being bad sending no output signal to the underhood relay box. Lesson learned, $1540 for a new BCM; vehicle was priced for quick sale at $5500 for this reason.
Please make sure there is no red flags for any type of vehicle first, before you plan to buy.
My cheap code reader has an "Emission Ready" light, so if the seller had reset the trouble codes my reader won't illuminate that light. The emission stuff requires a certain number of driving cycles before it thinks things are okay. Not getting the "ready light" indicates a resent code reset condition. You won't see any idiot lights on the dash for some codes that take a while to set..
In states that have smog, the certificate is good for 30 days, typically. Unless it's an old classic or special car you know needs work, any modern car should have the title AND smog certificate ready to go. In most states, it is the seller's financial responsibility to pass smog, and for dealers, it's required.
@@plektosgaming Test certification is good for 6 months in OH but it will fail the emissions test if the codes were cancelled recently. Ohio and most "midwestern" states have no requirement that a used car sold (by a private seller at least) has to pass any test whatsoever or even be safe to drive. Strictly AS-IS...I don't know what states require the seller to fix all that...
The buyer can be exempted if spending a minimum of $400 in an unsuccessful repair attempt.
There is test equipment that will indicate the codes been reset.
@@Kaufeetimevideo Maybe so but any cheap code reader indicating that the emission system is "not ready" kinda proves they reset the code. If it fails it fails, but if it's not ready they reset the code.
You also have to watch out for sellers that lie about Facebook not letting them put the real price on the ad to lure people in
Always keep a copy of the advert. Photograph the car before you take it away from a dealer. Only view it at the owners home if not a dealer. Bit dodgy meeting up half way. Always have a friend who can be more critical or give you a lift back so as not to commit having bus, taxi, trained or flown there.
These days there’s no way I’d meet anywhere but a public place, and a busy one at that. Carrying that much cash is a risk if you show up at someone’s house and turns out they’re a bunch of tweakers.
Good advice. I wouldn't even bother asking a seller what was wrong if the oil was low, the coolant reservoir was dirty or had oil or sludge in it or smelled bad. Just walk away. Plenty more cars out there.
Ms.Wizard is a damn rockstar. The wizards are such a good couple!
I think Mr. Wizard is far superior
Translation: "Ran when parked" means "boat anchor".
yard art
That's the truth. I only pay parts value for "ran with parked" cars
@@locomojo0485 Just having my car sit for almost 3 months due to Covid meant I had to run it about 40 miles to charge the battery and get things working right. Plus some extra gas. Modern cars built since about 2000 really REALLY don't like to be sitting unused for months or years at a time.
@@plektosgaming that's because you just want to jump right in and expect her to run. A little foreplay goes a long way. Maybe some chocolates, my Ford loves chocolate but if she still doesn't like it, i just let her roll down the driveway and pop the clutch and then she knows who's boss. Sometimes though I've gotta bust out the defibrillators and get her going with my Dodge diesel . She really responds to that , cuz she knows I'm about to jump her bones with that big double 12 .
*** no batteries were hurt during this comment ***
I've found some winners gambling on those kind. But by "winner" I mean I got it cheap enough that it was worth fixing it.. they usually do run and drive tho
If you're buying a car in the UK a very simple check can be the MOT history, which is a free service on the Gov website. Can get a quick idea of how well the car has been maintained - i.e. I'd avoid cars that have failed for things like having multiple worn tyres.
Also helps verify the mileage.
I remember when I was about 19 yrs old, before I got married.. I went to this used car dealer, down the street from where, I lived.. I went to look at this nice car, I think a Chevy Caprice. LOL. I went in side to talk to one of these 3 men sitting at a table.. I asked how much such and such car was. Their reply, more than you can afford.. Now I know they were full of crap.. Plus since were I lived, I summed up that they were part of the local organize crime family.
I can't stand that when they say it's more than you can afford. For one thing they don't know my wealth and it's put down insult.
My big thing when buying modern cars in addition to everything the Wizard has detailed is:
2 Keys. It's often a pain to get another key programmed correctly, not to mention expensive.
If the car has 2 keys...check that they both work.
If they say "I lost the 2nd key." do you walk away?
@@dannydaw59 it has been known. When the vendor won't budge on price and there are other cars (mostly Mercedes in my case) it can be a tipping point.
All the cars that I have bought only had one key and I programmed the keys it's not that hard... Especially nowadays that you can just look up on UA-cam on how to program them....
Most cars I've bought only had one key. The new ones I've bought I think I've lost the second key after a few years in every case - because I never used it. I really doubt it is that hard to get a second key. Maybe Mercs are different in that respect.
I don’t hav a problem with having one key,most of the time,unless I feel like something is fishy about the seller coming and stealing the car from u..
I always reccomend to friends and customers to take it to a shop for a pre purchase inspection if possible. Should be wary of an engine compartment thats too clean and shiny too. Seen many that are clean and pretty up top, but an oily mess underneath.
I had one of two exhaust pipes plugged up and two muffler shops were stumped. I took the 53 Caddy back to my mechanic who rebuilt the engine and he found a mouse nest in the one tail pipe! Cars that sit do get critters in them.
Look out for buying a used Cadillac from a guy named Heavy D. AC doesn’t work, just needs a can of Freon. Look out for mismatched tires, milk shake oil dip stick, dirty, rusty, burnt transmission oil on trans dip stick. Are there aftermarket electronics done by bubbas.
Typical Craigslist BS: (1) Runs rough needs new plugs. (2) Selling for a friend. (3) Just needs a head gasket.
"Rebuilt Engine" scam claim, what was actually rebuilt?? .LOL.. its a catch all phrase that sometimes even includes installing a used junkyard motor ... or some minor engine work .. when a real rebuild would include boring cylinders, new pistons, bearings, new valve seats, valves,...and MUCH MORE.
If they say the engine is rebuilt (or transmission) then I ask to see the paperwork. If no paperwork, I assume engine/trans has NOT been rebuilt no matter what seller says.
When checking oil make sure its fairly clean no sludge as well as it not looking like chocolate milk
... and be sure under the oil cap doesn’t look like a latte, extra foam.
12:00 My friend had a Porsche repair shop some years ago and I remember that one particular 928 whose warning lights went perfectly off, after the car was started. In reality. All the wires were cut and revired to a single warning light that really went off and so the others followed suit. I remember that to repair that beautiful machine was more expensive than what it originally cost.
I"m pretty happy with my used car purchase. I work in auto parts, bought a 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis LSE off a coworker. It had a cold start issue that I diagnosed as a bad IAC Valve and it's perfect now. It was using oil but switching to 5w-30, which it originally used before Ford changed it, fixed that. We rebuilt the front suspension and had 4 new tires put on it after an alignment. The only other thing I might do is convert from air springs to coil springs, but it rides so smoothly on air.
Nice find!
Craigslist is a cesspool when it comes to used cars.
It absolutely is, and that’s true for honest sellers, too. Was selling a Jeep (XJ) and I think 60% of respondents to the ad were liars/scammers, 20% were flakes, and only the remaining 20% seemed like earnest people.
Crackhead-list is a cesspool for everything anymore.
Thanks for the pointers,
My uncle knows a small dealer who sells cars, has been buying from for years.
Can't wait to get my car.
soooooooooooooooooooooooo right about blend door issues and hvac routing servos being the ultimate p.i.t.a.
Another trick to check temps on modern cars without those gauges is a bluetooth obd2 adapter and your phone. You'll have to research the appropriate temps beforehand though.
It's ALWAYS easier and often cheaper by far to walk away than to assume you can cheaply fix things - UNLESS you're an experienced mechanic!!
My 02’ 525i sport. The transmission liked to go into failsafe mode but you Could get it out by shifting to neutral and starting. I bought the car any way and ended Up fixing it by checking the transmission position switch connector. It is a black connector with male and female pins that can rotate if it comes loose which will send incorrect signals between computer and trans. The bmw was great even after I rebuilt it from a crash, so I learned everything about the e39! Would consider an m5 because of it. Every car has a hidden story. How much of the book can you speed read? You’ll never know everything. Sometimes a bit of smoke off a valve cover is normal for some cars esp. European. I have the SL500 now and it’s a much faster and better car, just had it serviced for 280$ they corrected my abc suspension, changed my oil, filters etc. and did a general reset of the computer. I hope it becomes a collectible one day. I’ll never get rid of it
I always watch these at 1.5x speed. when Mrs. Wizard is on I have to go back to normal.
Mr. and Mrs. Wizard: So appreciated this particular video. Am an old guy, retired builder and carpenter. After over 40 years as a builder, I joke that I know everything their is to know about houses (not really true). But I admit I don't know much of anything when it comes to buying a quality used that doesn't surprise me with major hidden defects after I get it home, and I think I must have bought 50 or more, over my lifetime, between myself, my kids, my former business. At the moment I'm looking to replace my 1993 Toyota T-100 with another older model Tundra. My budget is 10k tops. Most all of what I can find for sale, be it on autotrader or wherever, are from used car dealers. I've not found many if any that are completely honest about what they're selling. Any advice or tips from anyone or where to look, would be much appreciated. Car Wizard, I know what you mean about titles-in-hand, as they say. I once bought and paid for a used car at a very reputable dealer, on a promise that they were getting the title soon. I returned the car for a full refund after two weeks and no title yet. Thanks again for this video!
Everytime I see Audi’s like that now I think “engine out, engine out, engine out”
Still not a BMW lol
It's not that bad. Sometime I will make an hour long video about my audi. I've gotten to the core of the audi''s (and german car in general) engineering issues.
Yep. I had this exact model Audi. Timing chain jumped and guess what - engine out
Well... buy a 2,5TDI 02-04. They run forever...
My 1984 Audi 4000 Quattro is the most reliable car I have ever owned, but modern Audi's suck to own. VW Group also sucks at supporting their products due to the price & availability of OEM parts.....
Take a magnet with you and put it up against the parts of the bodywork that are most likely to be hit in accidents. Magnet doesn't stick= panel bogged and repainted.
This works with most cars, but some have considerably more fiberglass than others (think Saturn). Have a Carfax and note the color of the car, unless it's been repainted, repaired panels stick out like a sore thumb. Not always bad, but it depends on who repaired them and why - that repair should show up on the Carfax history report.
I bring a bluedriver scanner when i test drive a car i want to buy ..i bring someone to read the bluedriver while i drive. I look under the car and on top and around .check all fluids...make sure its a clean title no salvage or rebuilt titles .
I've had pretty good luck with used car purchases. And it's all based on basic mechanical knowledge like this.
Like back in 2008 I got a really good deal on a 1994 Buick Park Avenue, the seller said that the car wouldn't go into overdrive, but also didn't accelerate very well. I figured worst case scenario, GM used to put in that really crappy transmission fluid and it throws the overdrive gear, so I negotiated a really reasonable price with the price of the repairs calculated in, brought it to the shop, found out it was a throttle positioning sensor. Retired that car in 2020.
I also bring my code reader with me, which can also see the code history on vehicles.
SOLD AS IS *UNTESTED*
Ebay speak for "we tested it and it did not work."
I recently bought a tape recorder on ebay listed as working. The belt had so much slip it couldn't drive the reels properly, and even if it could, there's no sound even when using a tape adapater, so something is caput in th head or amplifier. At least I got a refund on it.
I’ll tell you another thing that I learned about switching from a professional mechanic to a body man. Sunroofs may function and they may look great on the outside but if somebody hasn’t taken the time to clean the drains, wait till the rains come! Then you’re going to see something really fantastic inside of what should be a closed space. It’s easily done by yourself in most cases. But that light mold smell up near the headliner. I always used to say “why would somebody cut a hole in a perfectly good roof?”. But they do in cars with sunroofs I would just completely steer away from if you don’t want to eventually have a problem with it. But then again I love them in another aspect because they damn sure flow a lot of money into the body shop!
Every car I’ve ever owned had a sunroof (not that I wanted one, the cars I bought just happened to have one). Never had a problem with the sunroofs, but I’m sure other people do
When I was a young punk and didn't know a whole lot about buying cars.. I test drove a used car with a broken brake line.. it was a 2003 mustang.. it was hard to stop.. I didnt know about the broken brake line... the used car dealer didnt tell me anything about it, the dealer was off a highway so I took it on the highway driving fast.. I look down to check my speed and there is a red brake light.. I'm having trouble stopping so I drive slow back to the dealership.. I call him out on it and he fixed it.. I bought it like a young dumb kid wanting a fun hot rod.. it had an oil leak, coolant leak.. neither of which I knew about til after I had bought it.. the car was a total POS.. I learned alot from that experience.. I've bought a lot of cars since and I've done a great job on what to look for
One time I wanted to by a 2000 or 2001 Volvo S70. Had about 166,000 miles and seemed to be in a decent shape. Contacted the seller, set up a test drive. They turned out to be some shop doing general car repair. Told me they've fixed a few things here and there on the Volvo and now are selling it for some old lady. The price was $1,200. Claimed nothing is really wrong with it. Well, that's interesting I thought. On the drive I noticed a screeching and grinding noise coming from the front end while turning right. The guy immediately jumped in with "don't worry this noise will go away the more you drive it. We didn't find anything wrong with it." Well to me, if a car makes any unusual noise like this, there's definitely a problem, right? So I asked if I could take to my mechanic to check it out which is btw a reputable Volvo shop just a couple of miles from these guys' shop. The guy: "No we don't allow that. I had a friend selling his car and they took to a mechanic who dropped it from their lift and the car was totalled. We're sorry we can't let you take it for a prepurchase inspection." "Have a good day" I said. Later, my quick Google search showed that it could be an issue with the subframe which could be a $2,500 fix.
i usually go to dealers by law in Missouri they usually have it inspected but that's not 100%. i trust no one. my friend bought car on Facebook 1500$ a mitsubishi outlander wound up paying more get worked on. and i research parts prices on vehicles ask my mechanic whats it like get it worked on don't be like hoovie he got money most people don't
Another common "dupe" to a seller that I've seen being in the trade is cooked brakes but the brake reservoir is full. The seller knew the brakes were used up but topping up the reservoir makes it look like the pistons are still shallow in the caliper bores. Also, some sellers and cheesy lots will replace the brake/clutch pads on the legs to make them look newer and hide mileage.
Mrs. Wizard should get an academy award. This actress is amazing.
I actually had a guy misplace his title, and understood when I wouldn't buy. He actually came from an entire house move after a house fire. Had the title only 2 days later and THEN I was willing to look at the car.
Been driving the car for 2.5 years with only oil changes and some filters! Also had to get a new rim but that's because a cheaper tire I got myself blew out and hurt the rim.
Great point about the engine oil.
Yes especially nowadays when there's zero actual physical connected to the engine gauges they all go through a computer first then the whatever is the threshold get sent to you
You should also tell the seller that you want the engine to be cold when you arrive so that you can see how it starts cold. He could be having problems starting the engine cold that go away when it is warm.
Excellent tip man ! So very true
I've said this before, I'll say it again.... I once bought a motorcycle without the title being ready, the friend of a friend said he'd get it to me later. He did, so it worked out in the end, but it took a couple of months with this bike sitting in my garage, that I couldn't do anything with. Listen to the Wizard! No title, no deal.
Remember you are buying the TITLE. The car is just an add-on to the deal.
This is a valuable episode that is a real keeper. Thanks Car and Mrs Wizard.
I love the videos where you both are involved it's way cooler.
you forgot one thing RUST... look under the car if you see rust more then a patina of it then run
rocker panels, frame strut mounts. if its freshly painted in areas beware. push comes to shove take it to a shop during test drive.
Dont sell a car unless you do it at the police dept .they have a better way to do it safely .i listed a very nice van and the first test drivers redlined it and blew it up with myself and my kid in the car! We met at a kangaroo gas station with video for safety. Did it in the daytime. It was horrible and vetu scary and trashed my car. 4 people wanted to ride during test drive. .
17:43 Yes Wizard I agree with you. You want to make sure a car’s background is clean as in clean title, no major wreck, has seevice record, etc before you inspect the mechanical and physical condition of a car. And if I’m looking at a car the first thing I ask to see is the title and verify the vins and seller’s ID.
Very well done. You two are a great team. Thank you.
Note on checking the reservoirs Make sure that they have not just been emptied out and topped off with new fluid.
Especially the coolant one and that the line hasn't been plugged so the muck coming out of the engine doesn't mix and spoil the illusion.
Good advice. Also, several empty oil or antifreeze bottles in the trunk (also some like to toss them on the floor behind the seats) will tell you that motor is end of life.
Thank you Mr. and Mrs. Wizard for taking your time and trouble to give us these awesome tips.
Very timely Wizard! I'm in the market for a used car right now and this is great advice to remember.
Yes! I love the Starion and Conquest TSI! Euro-Asian Bob has good taste! :)
You must live in a better place than I do, with no mention of rust in this video!
The location is Newton, Ks