I appreciate that! I hope my videos can take the guesswork out of some things. I’ve broken too many parts trying to figure them out instead of asking someone who knew! Thanks for reaching out and for watching!
Thanks for the video. I’ll need to take my cluster out sooner than later, and the how to on removing each knob(why couldn’t they just make them the same??) will help tremendously.
Thank you! I couldn’t tell you why they made so many different parts to pretty much do the same thing!! I will have a cluster video out sometime soon as well! I appreciate you reaching out and thanks for watching!
Chad, good information but on any much less older, have folks use a dab of dielectric grease. It is sold at home improvement stores usually next to epoxy's and mirror adhesive. Also, if someone wants to add a theft deterrent, have them look for the ignition 10 gage purple which activates the start solenoid. For $10 or less online, purchase a 40 amp relay with connector. Solder and shrink tube the purple to terminals 30 & 87 as marked on "ISO" relays. A toggle switch can control ground or power to the relay on 85 & 86. This energizes the coil to complete cranking. The relay needs power when cranking. GM uses PINK wires for B+ during these operations. Check with a test light to make power is there in the crank key position. They are fused and the relays coil is 90 ohms at best so no chance of getting hot. Many are B+ while crank and key on, either is fine as it take a key to twist and turn the cranking motor. Many bolts and screws behind the dash can be used for bracket mounting, just place where it's easy to reach. The easy is switch position! Up is on, down is off. Keeps it simple. Reach under, feel the switch, push up to crank and off you go! Just a thought for those who want to keep there hard earned truck where they left it. If equipped with cruise (Aftermarket is common / LS swaps are common) but use the "SET" signal instead of PINK. No worry about cranking while running as it takes a key twist, if LS swapped, hitting set just turns relay on, nothing happens. Many may not know, but if wired the starter like factory, the PCM denies a crank request if RPM's are above 450 anyways. Have a good 2023 now in Dec, safe holidays! DK, ASE Master since 78.
This is excellent info! I hope several guys read your comments! I love learning new tricks. I hate to hear when one of these trucks get stolen! Keep spreading your knowledge and thanks for sharing!
@@C10TruckNerd Chad Another way To Do A Theft Deterrent - is If you Installed A HEI Distributor For Example- you Can Unplug the Wire to the HEI ( Hot )- Fuse Block . & Of Course Vehicle Won’t Start. FYI 👍🏻
@@jimmysapien9961sorry Jimmy I've looked through all my emails and spam and can't find an email from you. Can you try again or let me know your email? Thanks
1967 to 1972 C10 chevy truck was so easy to work on and now you can buy a new cab with doors and fenders and the best bed to use on this truck is the 190 to 1996 flare side bed
You are right. You can buy an entire truck online now. A brand new cab alone cost more than all of my trucks I bought this year put together though. It would sure speed up a build!
Love the depth. More informative than brothers and lmc
I appreciate that! I hope my videos can take the guesswork out of some things. I’ve broken too many parts trying to figure them out instead of asking someone who knew! Thanks for reaching out and for watching!
I'm working through all your 67-72 videos. Good stuff man. 👍🏼
I really appreciate the support! Make sure you watch the Bolt lock video for your chance to win one for free!
Thanks for the video. I’ll need to take my cluster out sooner than later, and the how to on removing each knob(why couldn’t they just make them the same??) will help tremendously.
Thank you! I couldn’t tell you why they made so many different parts to pretty much do the same thing!! I will have a cluster video out sometime soon as well! I appreciate you reaching out and thanks for watching!
It’s Called $$$$$$$
Excellent tips, and great job showing the detail.
Thank you! I hope it can help you in the future.
Chad, good information but on any much less older, have folks use a dab of dielectric grease. It is sold at home improvement stores usually next to epoxy's and mirror adhesive.
Also, if someone wants to add a theft deterrent, have them look for the ignition 10 gage purple which activates the start solenoid. For $10 or less online, purchase a 40 amp relay with connector. Solder and shrink tube the purple to terminals 30 & 87 as marked on "ISO" relays. A toggle switch can control ground or power to the relay on 85 & 86. This energizes the coil to complete cranking. The relay needs power when cranking. GM uses PINK wires for B+ during these operations. Check with a test light to make power is there in the crank key position. They are fused and the relays coil is 90 ohms at best so no chance of getting hot. Many are B+ while crank and key on, either is fine as it take a key to twist and turn the cranking motor.
Many bolts and screws behind the dash can be used for bracket mounting, just place where it's easy to reach. The easy is switch position! Up is on, down is off. Keeps it simple. Reach under, feel the switch, push up to crank and off you go!
Just a thought for those who want to keep there hard earned truck where they left it. If equipped with cruise (Aftermarket is common / LS swaps are common) but use the "SET" signal instead of PINK. No worry about cranking while running as it takes a key twist, if LS swapped, hitting set just turns relay on, nothing happens. Many may not know, but if wired the starter like factory, the PCM denies a crank request if RPM's are above 450 anyways.
Have a good 2023 now in Dec, safe holidays! DK, ASE Master since 78.
This is excellent info! I hope several guys read your comments! I love learning new tricks. I hate to hear when one of these trucks get stolen! Keep spreading your knowledge and thanks for sharing!
@@C10TruckNerd Chad Another way To Do A Theft Deterrent - is If you Installed A HEI Distributor For Example- you Can Unplug the Wire to the HEI ( Hot )- Fuse Block . & Of Course Vehicle Won’t Start. FYI 👍🏻
Shicogo....I just learned a new cus word.....just like son of a biskit eater or Fire trUCK....
I will keep them coming!
Been there done That 🙃
What wire/harness did you connect to the back of the wiper switch? My wiper switch is missing so was hoping to see what it connected to.
If your shoot me an email I can send you a pic. My address is on my channel page. Thanks
@@C10TruckNerd what is your Email I would like a pic too I’m having Some Problems with my Wiper Swith 😳
@@jimmysapien9961 itsthechad71@gmail.com let me know what year as well.
Chad I sent you an Email .. I haven’t heard From you yet . 🤔(. And pictures too )
@@jimmysapien9961sorry Jimmy I've looked through all my emails and spam and can't find an email from you. Can you try again or let me know your email? Thanks
Phew! I have comments on now :) Thanks for the video!
Thank you and I’m glad you got it worked out!
1967 to 1972 C10 chevy truck was so easy to work on and now you can buy a new cab with doors and fenders and the best bed to use on this truck is the 190 to 1996 flare side bed
How bout a 92 short box on a 67 c10 short? Does that combo work and look good
You are right. You can buy an entire truck online now. A brand new cab alone cost more than all of my trucks I bought this year put together though. It would sure speed up a build!
I think they fit pretty dang well. I have never done one myself but have a buddy that has. I am too old school to change it up!
@@C10TruckNerd i hear ya but i cannt find a box
Good stuff! First time Ive had “The Chad” experience 😅
Buckle up! It’s a wild time!