Thanks man ! Glad the videos are helpful 👍. When I first started having issues with mine years ago, I couldn’t find any info on how to fix them so I figured I would make videos each time I had to work on it to help others. Turns out, I refer back in them from time to time as well when checking things, lol. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
Hey Steve, thanks so much for all your helpful videos. I purchased a 05 645ci with my rear back window will not go up. ( but it was working at time of purchase) I have all the lights working on my window switch on drivers door . I hear a clicking sound from all window buttons once pressed but I do not hear a clicking sound when I access the button with the green light on to activate the rear window. I tried manually but to no avail..stripped ! If it's stripped..does that mean the motor needs to be replaced or do I have options? Ps.. I watched the vid on releasing the tabs in trunk to release catches for my convertible top(does not work) and I pulled those tabs . I got the error on dash for open top. I may or may not have relocked the catches in trunk. Will this error have anything to do with my rear glass issue? Thanks again
Hey man ! It does sound like there’s an issue with the rear window as it should go up and down with the green led lit on the door module that operates the windows (or at a minimum you should hear the rear window’s motor trying) as long as the convertible top was not faulted. If it was blinking a fault when the button to open or close the soft top were pressed, the rear window wouldn’t have worked though as the car disabled it. When the latches are pulled to be able to manually move the top, it actually disables all window movement (and errors that the top is not locked) so probably even the side windows stopped functioning when those were pulled. Here’s a link to another video on the channel on how to push the latches in the trunk back to lock them again...that way you’ll know you got them latched back: ua-cam.com/video/3Qucuw9_DKw/v-deo.html . If your side windows start working again or are working, then the latches in the trunk should be latched back 👍. For the stripped motor for the rear window, it will actually still function and raise and lower the window even though the Allen key hole is stripped or broken if there are no errors or issues with the window module. Some good news is that if the smaller side rear windows were working, that means the Convertible top electronic module is still working (it controls those as well as the soft top) so it sounds like it is a hall sensor, something out of position, or something mechanical going in with the rear window mechanism. If you haven’t found them, there are several other videos on how to open/close the soft top manually (to work on it for example) and also a video on removing the rear window module to repair it. The video on removing the rear window module was actually to fix a corroded hall sensor that was preventing the top from working (and also the rear window) which sounds a lot like what you are experiencing. Sorry for the long reply, but hopefully it helps some. After watching some of the other videos on the channel, if you have some more questions, just give me a shout. All the best and hopefully you get it going again 👍. Steve
I have a 2012 bmw 650i the convertible does not work I scan it and I do not have communication with the module of the convertible, where is located in which part of the car is the module that controls the convertible soft top
I need your help have a 645Ci my rear window is stuck down, I hear the switch I hear click I try my tool and it won't move it's stuck how can I get the glass up because it's raining.
Hey (again) Skilled Tech Steve, this question is totally as to your norm, BUT were sure your answer would be the best! We discovered after a used car purchase (02 Mit.Montero Sports 3.0L) from private seller, the heater did not work ..in Ft.Laud FL, we probably wouldn't need it beyond few day a year, none the less we discovered the heater core was totally missed and just sitting as a heater core by-pass kit had been installed. Question: is it possible we can change the location of heater core and simply mount outside factory inter dash board? It's a horror to fish the original out..no links or short cuts exist as to heater core replacement 00-03 Montero Sports..the unit overall condition is amazing and we may consider a up north road trip this coming up holidays... hypothetically, we are thinking a modification that fits in glove box? engine fire wall and or interior mount at passengers upper floor board ajacent center console? In any event nothing exist on line we have found to aide in this horror replacement. lastly does size matter as far as the actual heater core? as plenty exist on line we could modify. Thanks again Kim
Hey man ! That is a bit of a different question, but I actually have done something similar on an old Chevy truck I had once, lol 😜. It’s definitely a “do at your on risk” kind of thing since it involves modifying the vehicles system, but I can tell you what I did. I used two small motorcycle radiators (they come with fans) and stuck them in the foot wells above where the driver and passenger feet are. The coolant gets pretty hot and is under pressure so I wanted to use something that is normally used for coolant systems to make it as safe as possible. I just put a 1/4 turn valve in the line and a switch to turn the fans off and on and connected them in series. The heat was controlled by adjusting the flow of the coolant with the valve. Actually worked pretty good to heat the cab of the truck, lol. For a Montero it might be different as your feet may get really hot in order to heat the entire vehicle, but putting one somewhere else like you said might work. Just remember that the coolant gets really hot. All the best ! Steve
Hey there ,4 years after you making this video lol..not sure if you ll respond..But I just a 2007 M6 Convertible..Imwasnt sure if the rear window moved up or down..your video popped up..and watch you use the door buttons..Walk into the garage..yup it went down! Great..Left it for a week..went out this am..put the top up..Now the roof dont want to latch at windshield ! All the windows including the rear glass function while it moves..But I bought the car few weeks ago, zero issues w top working but the rear window was always up! Is there a way to rest it? Thanks Mike in Boston
Hey man ! Sorry…been away from the shop for a couple of weeks for work. You may have already got it going again, but just in case, the rear window does need to be all the way down for the top to operate, but if it’s moving for any portion of the movement, then the rear window sensor that detects it is down is working. The latching to the top of the windshield is done by the motor that’s in the compartment that is part of the last small section of the soft top up front. In order for the motor to pull the last small section down and then engage the latches, the soft top controller needs to know that the triangular wings in the back are fully down and touching top of the soft top storage compartment (where the soft top goes when retracted). Most times it’s an issue with the sensor that detects when the driver wing is full in position so if it’s stopping at any point in the cycle, most times you can give the triangular wings a bonk or wiggle and then it will continue on its cycle. If the sensor is going bad or is way off on its position detection, one person can wiggle it while another is pushing the button and it will respond at least enough so you’ll know it is this sensor that’s giving the problem. The soft tops are very sensitive to temp changes or getting wet and then drying out as the fabric tightens and loosens which makes the wing sensors get pulled out of position so many times it’s just an issue with these wing sensors. If the motor in the soft top front that does the latching is making a grinding sound when the button is pressed to close or open it, then that’s a completely different problem and the motor will need to be replaced. Hope this helps a bit and all the best ! Steve
Hello, here’s a link to another video on the channel where I had to replace the relays that run the pump. At about the 10:00 minute mark I show removing the housing where the pump is. Inside of it is also the reservoir that holds the hydraulic fluid: ua-cam.com/video/zJMn4XWGgok/v-deo.html. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Hello, i have some water in the trunk and i need to open the convertible top trunk, i cant do that since the top isnt working. I know where the manual release is for the top compartment, but i don't know how to raise the wings which are resting on the top compartment. Any ideas?
mini gamer , hello, there’s another video out on my channel that shows how to manually move the convertible top that might be helpful. If your convertible top is up, the first thing you’ll have to do is unlock the catches above the front window by using the hex tool (or Allen wrench) at the center front in between the sun visors. Once you release the front latches and the top pops up slightly, you’ll then be able to pick the wings up at the same time you are pulling the front of the top up (having two people is very helpful). Hope this helps. Once you get the front latches free and push up on the top a little at the front of the car, you should see that the wings have raised up a bit too...then lift both the front of the top and the wings at the same time until the wings stand all the way up.
Hey ! If the battery is still connected, the motor will resist being turned…I would try disconnecting the negative from the battery and then trying to turn the motor with the manual tool. If it still won’t raise with the battery disconnected then there must be something wrong with the lift cables for the window so it will need to come out to be repaired.
Okay both of my lights come on on my door panel when I touched the back window button to raise it but I don't know what to do after I see the two green lights , what do I push
Hey man ! You may have figured it out already, but after pressing the lower right button for the rear window to light up the two green leds, you’ll then use the up/down switch immediately above the lower right button (it’s actually the passenger side quarter window up/down button) that has the led lit above it in the finger pocket. Also (just for reference), if you press the lower left button to light up the two leds on the left side then push down or pull up the left quarter window button, it will raise or lower all of the 4 windows all at the same time. Hope this helps a bit and all the best ! Steve
Hi do you still have the old motor, do you have a model number for this as I cant find it online, and need to buy one before stripping the car down. Thanks in advance 👍👍🏴🏴🏴
R100WYN , hello, yep they are kinda hard to track down for a part number for sure so I made another video showing it and also what’s inside. Turns out they are used on several BMW models for the sun roof as well so they aren’t hard to find now. Here’s a link to the other video: ua-cam.com/video/c8HggTncRDA/v-deo.html . All the best 👍, Steve
Hi Steve. I have a same problem with the back window not opening. When I press the switch to lower window, it goes down about 2” and then it no longer goes down with a grinding sound. Help me if you know a solution. Please..😢
Hello, yes, it sounds like there is an issue with the motor’s gears that lower the back window. Here’s a link to another video on the channel on how to remove the rear window module in order to repair it: ua-cam.com/video/MfV_Ta8G6ds/v-deo.html. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Hello, Steve Thanks to your advice before, I was able to complete the replacement of the rear window motor. But the rear window still doesn't work even though the motor has been replaced. When I activate the rear window button, the button turns green but it doesn't work. And I found a red light flashing on the convertible Active button. So I looked up other videos of your, such as hall sensor segment position, Re-Loking Convertible lid. But I still couldn't solve the problem, and after connecting my e64 to INPA as a last resort, I found that the vsw 4.1 sensor was always recognized. I think the convertible storage lid position sensor is broken, Could you tell me the location of this sensor? Or is there another cause or solution? I always appreciate your help, Steve
Hi Steve I have a problem with the back window also when i try to open or close it,either with the roof down/up button or the door switch it will only move 2” then I have to push the button again an again for the window finally come down. it is the same when i try to raise the window it takes 3 or 4 goes to get it to close Last week after washing the car the back window wouldn’t move which meant I couldn’t take the roof down so i left it in the garage for a few days and it started to work again but still intermittent Could this be the relays in the back or maybe hall sensor?
Dave Barry , hey man ! When it moves the 2” or so then stops, does it make a grinding noise after stopping or does it just stop without noise and then you have to release the button and press it again?
Dave Barry , 👍. Good that there are no grinding noises for sure. It might be the hall sensor starting to give a false reading and making the window think it is all the way down, but it also might be that the motor is getting enough load that it thinks it’s reached the end of the travel as well. Inside the motor housing is a little circuit board that senses when the motor spikes on the load to let the controller know it’s reached top or bottom. If the window slides, cables, or track lubrication has dried out, it causes the motor to think it has hit the end of the travel so it just stops. Hitting the button makes it try again till it reaches the load limit again. Putting new lube in the tracks, cables, etc...still requires removing and opening up the window module (like one of the other videos on the channel), but you could do a little test by putting some petroleum jelly in the side edges of the glass and cycling it a few times to see if reducing the friction on the glass seal improves things. If it does, then it’s probably just reaching the load to turn the motor off. It also could be the motor is getting weak and reaching the load limit too early, but if it was me I would lube the guides and rails and cables first with some non-hardening lube (like Sil-glyde) before spending the money to replace the motor. Hope this helps some 👍, Steve
nick tran , thanks man 👍. Yep, I probably should have put something at the first of the video for the time stamp on actually moving the window for folks that are more familiar with the car.
@@StevesDIYs on another subject. do you know anyone who repairs the logic 7 amp. I had mine repaired 5 years ago. it went bad again. even thought it's not wet
jose barahona , I haven’t had any issues with the side windows yet, but I did have to take the right side inner door panel off to access the rear window module to fix it. I would say that if any of the side windows won’t go down, it will prevent the top from moving. Here’s a link to the video...at about the 3:50 min time mark I pull the panel off...the left side one should be similar if it helps any to access the rear side window system 👍. ua-cam.com/video/MfV_Ta8G6ds/v-deo.html . All the best, Steve
Hello, a Hall Effect Sensor is basically a sealed non-contact switch that is used to tell when it’s metal pickup is near it. It’s kinda like a push button switch, but nothing has to press it to make the switch…it just needs to sense that it’s metal pickup is in front of it. The soft top mechanism uses several of these (where it latches to the front window at the top, on the hydraulics that lift the soft top compartment, and inside the rear window module) to detect that the window glass is fully lowered. Here’s a link to the video on removing the rear window module to fix it’s corroded (damaged) hall sensor. If you skip to the 18:00 minute mark in the video, you’ll see the hall sensor for the rear window and how it works: ua-cam.com/video/MfV_Ta8G6ds/v-deo.html . Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Hello, not 100% sure, but I believe the 2012 and up models have a very similar window module design so it’s probably very close. If you have a look at the location in the videos on my car (e64 model) and it’s similar in design to the newer ones it may have this feature with the manual crank hole as well. All the best ! Steve
Hi Steve - or should i call you Jedai master mechanic - feels more appropriate from all your content! Just acquire a beaut of a 2010 one owner, 60K for my better half to complete the His n Hers in the garage with my 07 M6 55k - both same color. Anyhoo - it needs a double valve cover job (which im quite comfortable doing mechanical stuff not not so much the zapping stuff). The top works mostly - opens fine mechanically though windows don't go up on completing the cycle but do with the buttons. Closes to a couple of inches from latching - you hear the pumps trying to complete but it does not reach. Closed manually per your other video - thx. Close button flashes and icon comes up on dash. All windows don't close per normal cycle but do with button except back window which does not raise - no doubt it knows something is a miss! I'm assuming that as all electricals work, it may be due to low fluid - what say the master to the apprentice? Any pointers would be most appreciated. (Enjoy the coffee or beer.)
Hey again ! …definitely not a Jedi, but I’m very persistent and love a challenge so having BMWs fits the bill perfectly, lol. Just a heads up for the valve cover gasket job (just in case you haven’t done one yet), when you take off the Valve Timing Servos that are on top of the valve covers, they will release the cams and they will make a scary sounding slap. No worries if you’ve disconnected the battery prior to disconnecting the electrical connections on the motor as the car does not know the position changed. Once you put it all back together and connect the battery back, be sure to just put the key in and hit the button and not touch the brake pedal. You’ll hear the servos slap to home, then go to the full position, then come back. Let i5 sit there (probably making a faint whining sound like it upset) then press the button to turn the car off, take the key out, then put it back in and start the car up. Most times it won’t even throw a code that way. For the soft top issue, sounds like it could be the flex shafts that drive the latches may have gotten out of sync (they jump the teeth in the ends if they get into a bind) so both sides aren’t making the sensors at the same time. The very last part of the top coming down and grabbing the top of the window is actually done by the latching motor as it cranks two arms that tighten cables along the sides to make it come down as well as moving the latches. The hydraulic pump should cut off when the the hall sensor that’s up in the compartment in the front section of the soft top detects that the latch motor has moved the arms that pull the cables. I’d probably start by popping the plastic cover off the latching mechanism (it’s the big front plastic piece where it has the lock hole in it in the middle) and checking to see if the hall sensors are being made as the flex cables are rotated. To take it off, you’ll see the screws along the seal, but there are also two small screws (on on each side) that hide under the side seal rubber of the plastic compartment cover. The mechanism will operate without the cover being on so you’ll be able to see how it moves and how far the motor needs to turn to get to the hall sensors at the ends. Once you have the cover off and can see the mechanism, if you keep turning the latching motor (or turning the flex cables if you pull them loose from the motor), when the hall sensors make the pickups towards the end of the travel, the car should indicate that it’s locked if there are no other issues (like with segment sensor that tells the car where the triangular wings are). At that point, you should be able to put the rear window up by first pressing the rear window button that’s on the door handle to illuminate the led, then pull up on the passenger side quarter window button. If, once you give this a look, if you don’t see an issue, let me know and we can walk through the mechanism a bit further 👍. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
@StevesDIYs -Wow - much appreciate your exhaustive instruction. I had a look at your video which goes over the top front latch flex shafts - but i'll have to watch it a couple more times!!! Good thing i don't have to go diving under panels to look at the hydraulic pump. Will keep you posted. As for the valve cover, only done E90s, which admittedly are pretty simple - thanks for that, much help but will be a couple months before i get round to it, too much other regular maintenance to carry out on other three cars. BTW - do you have a English version of INPA, German version is driving me nuts? Cheers.
@@StevesDIYs Update - while crawling forums for more pointers - mostly E46 soft top maintenance (given there's more content) i came across a give away one liner lost among deep discussions of hall sensors mentioning top not latching with a marginally low battery - in my case 11.7v, which is surprising! Trickle charged battery which killed the charger - paid it no attention thinking it was a dud charger, but i think i have a battery issue. Anyhoo cycled the top with full charge and engine running - and you guess it! Top worked just fine. Tracked on INPA for a clean mechanical close - however cycle failed to put windows up - but buttons worked - any ideas?. Car has only 3 DTC codes; A37C Telematics (will ignore), 9C55 fogging sensor and apparently the bane of the top issue a 2DED - parasitic drain! I'm keeping in mind that the two codes above may be causing the drain - will measure tomorrow. So moving onto planning the gasket replacements - and everything that goes with a 60K service. Again, much appreciate your videos. All the best and look forward to more of them.
@rulebraking hey man ! Great to hear it was just something simple like the battery was just low 👍. These are a bit rough on the batteries (I usually end up getting a new one about every three years and I keep the cars in trickle chargers). If these are left unlocked, they don’t ever go into their sleep mode I’ve found. If it’s like mine, once you lock it, the Park led stays lit for 15 mins or so then turns off to show that it went to sleep…if it’s not doing that, then it will keep the electronics all ready to go and will drain the battery. They also have some comfort settings like turning the cabin fans to cool the interior off (accessed by the center display and menu button) that, if enabled, will keep it from going to sleep. These settings weren’t a big deal with the super heavy duty (and quite expensive lol) OE BMW battery, but aftermarket ones just can’t take the constant drain. For the windows not going back up after the top closes, if it gives the all complete gong and the led on the soft top movement button is green, then it should go ahead and lift the windows like you said. If yours has never done this step, it might be that it was coded out of the coding. If it was doing it before, but now won’t, I’m not really sure as to why it would no longer do it unless they programmed it so that a button can be pressed to enable or disable it (like sliding the mirror adjustment button to the passenger mirror and leaving it there makes the passenger mirror tilt down when backing up). Glad you got it headed in the right direction and all the best !
@@StevesDIYs Hey Steve - many thanks for those pointers - i removed the key from the car and - as you well say, it was keeping it awake as it were. Have since locked the car (so i don't steal it from myself in the garage!) and bingo no drain. Call me simple stupid! You make a good point about the top's complete cycle gong, didn't engage the brain, the M6 does it but not the 650! Will work on that post valve cover gaskets - still don't know if i have a alternator bracket seal leak - simply can't tell but the fact there is a bigger leak on the passenger side bodes well - says he wishful thinking!!! I hear alternator bracket seal can be done by lifting the engine instead of dropping the subframe - have you done this or know any good videos? As always much appreciate your contribution. All the best.
Jonathan Martinez , hello...I believe the P0021 code is for the variable valve timing for the engine. From what I’ve seen it could be caused by several things: a failing or bad connection to the cam position sensor (near the firewall on the valve covers of the motor), a broken chain guide, or a bad vanos solenoid. For the broken chain guide or bad solenoid, the motor should be making bad noises I think...for the cam position sensor it should sound relatively normal. I haven’t had this code yet or had to work on the vanos system on mine yet so I don’t have first hand knowledge of this particular issue though. Maybe check on the “Bimmerfest” forum on the internet to see if others have encountered and fixed this issue. Sorry I couldn’t be much help on this, Steve.
Jonathan Martinez , hey again...our N62 engine is used in several BMW models....here’s a video of another UA-camr changing he cam position sensor on the same motor. Maybe this will help with the location of them...there are two on each valve cover, one for each intake and one for each exhaust cam: ua-cam.com/video/C5kln7rKfDM/v-deo.html
Hey thanks Steve, all of your convertible tips have been on point for me...
Thanks man ! Glad the videos are helpful 👍. When I first started having issues with mine years ago, I couldn’t find any info on how to fix them so I figured I would make videos each time I had to work on it to help others. Turns out, I refer back in them from time to time as well when checking things, lol. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
Its a little different on my model 645c8 but the video helped a tonne
Thanks man ! Steve
Thank you!
Gabriel Hernandez , no problem...glad the video helped 👍
Thanks!
Thanks man ! Much appreciated 👍
Hey Steve, thanks so much for all your helpful videos. I purchased a 05 645ci with my rear back window will not go up. ( but it was working at time of purchase) I have all the lights working on my window switch on drivers door . I hear a clicking sound from all window buttons once pressed but I do not hear a clicking sound when I access the button with the green light on to activate the rear window. I tried manually but to no avail..stripped ! If it's stripped..does that mean the motor needs to be replaced or do I have options?
Ps..
I watched the vid on releasing the tabs in trunk to release catches for my convertible top(does not work) and I pulled those tabs . I got the error on dash for open top. I may or may not have relocked the catches in trunk. Will this error have anything to do with my rear glass issue?
Thanks again
Hey man ! It does sound like there’s an issue with the rear window as it should go up and down with the green led lit on the door module that operates the windows (or at a minimum you should hear the rear window’s motor trying) as long as the convertible top was not faulted. If it was blinking a fault when the button to open or close the soft top were pressed, the rear window wouldn’t have worked though as the car disabled it. When the latches are pulled to be able to manually move the top, it actually disables all window movement (and errors that the top is not locked) so probably even the side windows stopped functioning when those were pulled. Here’s a link to another video on the channel on how to push the latches in the trunk back to lock them again...that way you’ll know you got them latched back: ua-cam.com/video/3Qucuw9_DKw/v-deo.html . If your side windows start working again or are working, then the latches in the trunk should be latched back 👍. For the stripped motor for the rear window, it will actually still function and raise and lower the window even though the Allen key hole is stripped or broken if there are no errors or issues with the window module. Some good news is that if the smaller side rear windows were working, that means the Convertible top electronic module is still working (it controls those as well as the soft top) so it sounds like it is a hall sensor, something out of position, or something mechanical going in with the rear window mechanism. If you haven’t found them, there are several other videos on how to open/close the soft top manually (to work on it for example) and also a video on removing the rear window module to repair it. The video on removing the rear window module was actually to fix a corroded hall sensor that was preventing the top from working (and also the rear window) which sounds a lot like what you are experiencing. Sorry for the long reply, but hopefully it helps some. After watching some of the other videos on the channel, if you have some more questions, just give me a shout. All the best and hopefully you get it going again 👍. Steve
I have a 2012 bmw 650i the convertible does not work I scan it and I do not have communication with the module of the convertible, where is located in which part of the car is the module that controls the convertible soft top
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I need your help have a 645Ci my rear window is stuck down, I hear the switch I hear click I try my tool and it won't move it's stuck how can I get the glass up because it's raining.
Hey (again) Skilled Tech Steve, this question is totally as to your norm, BUT were sure your answer would be the best!
We discovered after a used car purchase (02 Mit.Montero Sports 3.0L) from private seller, the heater did not work ..in Ft.Laud FL, we probably wouldn't need it beyond few day a year, none the less we discovered the heater core was totally missed and just sitting as a heater core by-pass kit had been installed.
Question: is it possible we can change the location of heater core and simply mount outside factory inter dash board? It's a horror to fish the original out..no links or short cuts exist as to heater core replacement 00-03 Montero Sports..the unit overall condition is amazing and we may consider a up north road trip this coming up holidays... hypothetically, we are thinking a modification that fits in glove box? engine fire wall and or interior mount at passengers upper floor board ajacent center console? In any event nothing exist on line we have found to aide in this horror replacement. lastly does size matter as far as the actual heater core? as plenty exist on line we could modify.
Thanks again Kim
Hey man ! That is a bit of a different question, but I actually have done something similar on an old Chevy truck I had once, lol 😜. It’s definitely a “do at your on risk” kind of thing since it involves modifying the vehicles system, but I can tell you what I did. I used two small motorcycle radiators (they come with fans) and stuck them in the foot wells above where the driver and passenger feet are. The coolant gets pretty hot and is under pressure so I wanted to use something that is normally used for coolant systems to make it as safe as possible. I just put a 1/4 turn valve in the line and a switch to turn the fans off and on and connected them in series. The heat was controlled by adjusting the flow of the coolant with the valve. Actually worked pretty good to heat the cab of the truck, lol. For a Montero it might be different as your feet may get really hot in order to heat the entire vehicle, but putting one somewhere else like you said might work. Just remember that the coolant gets really hot. All the best ! Steve
Thanks!! Mr.Steve, we got your point.
Hey there ,4 years after you making this video lol..not sure if you ll respond..But I just a 2007 M6 Convertible..Imwasnt sure if the rear window moved up or down..your video popped up..and watch you use the door buttons..Walk into the garage..yup it went down! Great..Left it for a week..went out this am..put the top up..Now the roof dont want to latch at windshield ! All the windows including the rear glass function while it moves..But I bought the car few weeks ago, zero issues w top working but the rear window was always up! Is there a way to rest it?
Thanks
Mike in Boston
Hey man ! Sorry…been away from the shop for a couple of weeks for work. You may have already got it going again, but just in case, the rear window does need to be all the way down for the top to operate, but if it’s moving for any portion of the movement, then the rear window sensor that detects it is down is working. The latching to the top of the windshield is done by the motor that’s in the compartment that is part of the last small section of the soft top up front. In order for the motor to pull the last small section down and then engage the latches, the soft top controller needs to know that the triangular wings in the back are fully down and touching top of the soft top storage compartment (where the soft top goes when retracted). Most times it’s an issue with the sensor that detects when the driver wing is full in position so if it’s stopping at any point in the cycle, most times you can give the triangular wings a bonk or wiggle and then it will continue on its cycle. If the sensor is going bad or is way off on its position detection, one person can wiggle it while another is pushing the button and it will respond at least enough so you’ll know it is this sensor that’s giving the problem.
The soft tops are very sensitive to temp changes or getting wet and then drying out as the fabric tightens and loosens which makes the wing sensors get pulled out of position so many times it’s just an issue with these wing sensors.
If the motor in the soft top front that does the latching is making a grinding sound when the button is pressed to close or open it, then that’s a completely different problem and the motor will need to be replaced.
Hope this helps a bit and all the best ! Steve
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How do I check the fluid for my convertible top on my 650i? Thanks
Hello, here’s a link to another video on the channel where I had to replace the relays that run the pump. At about the 10:00 minute mark I show removing the housing where the pump is. Inside of it is also the reservoir that holds the hydraulic fluid: ua-cam.com/video/zJMn4XWGgok/v-deo.html. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Hello, i have some water in the trunk and i need to open the convertible top trunk, i cant do that since the top isnt working. I know where the manual release is for the top compartment, but i don't know how to raise the wings which are resting on the top compartment. Any ideas?
mini gamer , hello, there’s another video out on my channel that shows how to manually move the convertible top that might be helpful. If your convertible top is up, the first thing you’ll have to do is unlock the catches above the front window by using the hex tool (or Allen wrench) at the center front in between the sun visors. Once you release the front latches and the top pops up slightly, you’ll then be able to pick the wings up at the same time you are pulling the front of the top up (having two people is very helpful). Hope this helps. Once you get the front latches free and push up on the top a little at the front of the car, you should see that the wings have raised up a bit too...then lift both the front of the top and the wings at the same time until the wings stand all the way up.
@@StevesDIYs thank you, that's very helpful.
The tool to raise the back window starting to bend. Is there any way to get that back glass up!
Hey ! If the battery is still connected, the motor will resist being turned…I would try disconnecting the negative from the battery and then trying to turn the motor with the manual tool. If it still won’t raise with the battery disconnected then there must be something wrong with the lift cables for the window so it will need to come out to be repaired.
Okay both of my lights come on on my door panel when I touched the back window button to raise it but I don't know what to do after I see the two green lights , what do I push
Hey man ! You may have figured it out already, but after pressing the lower right button for the rear window to light up the two green leds, you’ll then use the up/down switch immediately above the lower right button (it’s actually the passenger side quarter window up/down button) that has the led lit above it in the finger pocket. Also (just for reference), if you press the lower left button to light up the two leds on the left side then push down or pull up the left quarter window button, it will raise or lower all of the 4 windows all at the same time. Hope this helps a bit and all the best ! Steve
Hi do you still have the old motor, do you have a model number for this as I cant find it online, and need to buy one before stripping the car down. Thanks in advance 👍👍🏴🏴🏴
R100WYN , hello, yep they are kinda hard to track down for a part number for sure so I made another video showing it and also what’s inside. Turns out they are used on several BMW models for the sun roof as well so they aren’t hard to find now. Here’s a link to the other video: ua-cam.com/video/c8HggTncRDA/v-deo.html . All the best 👍, Steve
@@StevesDIYs top man, thanks for your help my friend 👍😉🏴🏴
Hi Steve. I have a same problem with the back window not opening. When I press the switch to lower window, it goes down about 2” and then it no longer goes down with a grinding sound. Help me if you know a solution. Please..😢
Hello, yes, it sounds like there is an issue with the motor’s gears that lower the back window. Here’s a link to another video on the channel on how to remove the rear window module in order to repair it: ua-cam.com/video/MfV_Ta8G6ds/v-deo.html. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Hello, Steve
Thanks to your advice before, I was able to complete the replacement of the rear window motor.
But the rear window still doesn't work even though the motor has been replaced.
When I activate the rear window button, the button turns green but it doesn't work.
And I found a red light flashing on the convertible Active button.
So I looked up other videos of your, such as hall sensor segment position, Re-Loking Convertible lid.
But I still couldn't solve the problem, and after connecting my e64 to INPA as a last resort, I found that the vsw 4.1 sensor was always recognized.
I think the convertible storage lid position sensor is broken, Could you tell me the location of this sensor?
Or is there another cause or solution?
I always appreciate your help, Steve
Hi Steve I have a problem with the back window also when i try to open or close it,either with the roof down/up button or the door switch it will only move 2” then I have to push the button again an again for the window finally come down.
it is the same when i try to raise the window it takes 3 or 4 goes to get it to close
Last week after washing the car the back window wouldn’t move which meant I couldn’t take the roof down so i left it in the garage for a few days and it started to work again but still intermittent
Could this be the relays in the back or maybe hall sensor?
Dave Barry , hey man ! When it moves the 2” or so then stops, does it make a grinding noise after stopping or does it just stop without noise and then you have to release the button and press it again?
Steve’s DIYs thanks NO grinding or nasty noise Steve just stops and keep pressing to open
Dave Barry , 👍. Good that there are no grinding noises for sure. It might be the hall sensor starting to give a false reading and making the window think it is all the way down, but it also might be that the motor is getting enough load that it thinks it’s reached the end of the travel as well. Inside the motor housing is a little circuit board that senses when the motor spikes on the load to let the controller know it’s reached top or bottom. If the window slides, cables, or track lubrication has dried out, it causes the motor to think it has hit the end of the travel so it just stops. Hitting the button makes it try again till it reaches the load limit again. Putting new lube in the tracks, cables, etc...still requires removing and opening up the window module (like one of the other videos on the channel), but you could do a little test by putting some petroleum jelly in the side edges of the glass and cycling it a few times to see if reducing the friction on the glass seal improves things. If it does, then it’s probably just reaching the load to turn the motor off. It also could be the motor is getting weak and reaching the load limit too early, but if it was me I would lube the guides and rails and cables first with some non-hardening lube (like Sil-glyde) before spending the money to replace the motor. Hope this helps some 👍, Steve
Steve’s DIYs Thanks so much Steve we will have a go and lube it up and keep you updated 👍👍👍
Dave Barry , sounds good 👍. Yep, let me know how it goes. All the best 👍, Steve
Skip to 7:20. Thx for video
nick tran , thanks man 👍. Yep, I probably should have put something at the first of the video for the time stamp on actually moving the window for folks that are more familiar with the car.
@@StevesDIYs on another subject. do you know anyone who repairs the logic 7 amp. I had mine repaired 5 years ago. it went bad again. even thought it's not wet
i need to fix my back left side window look like. not working
jose barahona , I haven’t had any issues with the side windows yet, but I did have to take the right side inner door panel off to access the rear window module to fix it. I would say that if any of the side windows won’t go down, it will prevent the top from moving. Here’s a link to the video...at about the 3:50 min time mark I pull the panel off...the left side one should be similar if it helps any to access the rear side window system 👍. ua-cam.com/video/MfV_Ta8G6ds/v-deo.html . All the best, Steve
What and where are hall sensors?
Hello, a Hall Effect Sensor is basically a sealed non-contact switch that is used to tell when it’s metal pickup is near it. It’s kinda like a push button switch, but nothing has to press it to make the switch…it just needs to sense that it’s metal pickup is in front of it. The soft top mechanism uses several of these (where it latches to the front window at the top, on the hydraulics that lift the soft top compartment, and inside the rear window module) to detect that the window glass is fully lowered. Here’s a link to the video on removing the rear window module to fix it’s corroded (damaged) hall sensor. If you skip to the 18:00 minute mark in the video, you’ll see the hall sensor for the rear window and how it works: ua-cam.com/video/MfV_Ta8G6ds/v-deo.html . Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve
Stee please help me.
Does this work for the 2012- models
Hello, not 100% sure, but I believe the 2012 and up models have a very similar window module design so it’s probably very close. If you have a look at the location in the videos on my car (e64 model) and it’s similar in design to the newer ones it may have this feature with the manual crank hole as well. All the best ! Steve
@@StevesDIYs thank you, Steve
Hi Steve - or should i call you Jedai master mechanic - feels more appropriate from all your content! Just acquire a beaut of a 2010 one owner, 60K for my better half to complete the His n Hers in the garage with my 07 M6 55k - both same color. Anyhoo - it needs a double valve cover job (which im quite comfortable doing mechanical stuff not not so much the zapping stuff). The top works mostly - opens fine mechanically though windows don't go up on completing the cycle but do with the buttons. Closes to a couple of inches from latching - you hear the pumps trying to complete but it does not reach. Closed manually per your other video - thx. Close button flashes and icon comes up on dash. All windows don't close per normal cycle but do with button except back window which does not raise - no doubt it knows something is a miss! I'm assuming that as all electricals work, it may be due to low fluid - what say the master to the apprentice? Any pointers would be most appreciated. (Enjoy the coffee or beer.)
Hey again ! …definitely not a Jedi, but I’m very persistent and love a challenge so having BMWs fits the bill perfectly, lol. Just a heads up for the valve cover gasket job (just in case you haven’t done one yet), when you take off the Valve Timing Servos that are on top of the valve covers, they will release the cams and they will make a scary sounding slap. No worries if you’ve disconnected the battery prior to disconnecting the electrical connections on the motor as the car does not know the position changed. Once you put it all back together and connect the battery back, be sure to just put the key in and hit the button and not touch the brake pedal. You’ll hear the servos slap to home, then go to the full position, then come back. Let i5 sit there (probably making a faint whining sound like it upset) then press the button to turn the car off, take the key out, then put it back in and start the car up. Most times it won’t even throw a code that way.
For the soft top issue, sounds like it could be the flex shafts that drive the latches may have gotten out of sync (they jump the teeth in the ends if they get into a bind) so both sides aren’t making the sensors at the same time. The very last part of the top coming down and grabbing the top of the window is actually done by the latching motor as it cranks two arms that tighten cables along the sides to make it come down as well as moving the latches. The hydraulic pump should cut off when the the hall sensor that’s up in the compartment in the front section of the soft top detects that the latch motor has moved the arms that pull the cables. I’d probably start by popping the plastic cover off the latching mechanism (it’s the big front plastic piece where it has the lock hole in it in the middle) and checking to see if the hall sensors are being made as the flex cables are rotated. To take it off, you’ll see the screws along the seal, but there are also two small screws (on on each side) that hide under the side seal rubber of the plastic compartment cover.
The mechanism will operate without the cover being on so you’ll be able to see how it moves and how far the motor needs to turn to get to the hall sensors at the ends. Once you have the cover off and can see the mechanism, if you keep turning the latching motor (or turning the flex cables if you pull them loose from the motor), when the hall sensors make the pickups towards the end of the travel, the car should indicate that it’s locked if there are no other issues (like with segment sensor that tells the car where the triangular wings are). At that point, you should be able to put the rear window up by first pressing the rear window button that’s on the door handle to illuminate the led, then pull up on the passenger side quarter window button.
If, once you give this a look, if you don’t see an issue, let me know and we can walk through the mechanism a bit further 👍. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve
@StevesDIYs -Wow - much appreciate your exhaustive instruction. I had a look at your video which goes over the top front latch flex shafts - but i'll have to watch it a couple more times!!! Good thing i don't have to go diving under panels to look at the hydraulic pump. Will keep you posted. As for the valve cover, only done E90s, which admittedly are pretty simple - thanks for that, much help but will be a couple months before i get round to it, too much other regular maintenance to carry out on other three cars. BTW - do you have a English version of INPA, German version is driving me nuts? Cheers.
@@StevesDIYs Update - while crawling forums for more pointers - mostly E46 soft top maintenance (given there's more content) i came across a give away one liner lost among deep discussions of hall sensors mentioning top not latching with a marginally low battery - in my case 11.7v, which is surprising! Trickle charged battery which killed the charger - paid it no attention thinking it was a dud charger, but i think i have a battery issue. Anyhoo cycled the top with full charge and engine running - and you guess it! Top worked just fine. Tracked on INPA for a clean mechanical close - however cycle failed to put windows up - but buttons worked - any ideas?. Car has only 3 DTC codes; A37C Telematics (will ignore), 9C55 fogging sensor and apparently the bane of the top issue a 2DED - parasitic drain! I'm keeping in mind that the two codes above may be causing the drain - will measure tomorrow. So moving onto planning the gasket replacements - and everything that goes with a 60K service. Again, much appreciate your videos. All the best and look forward to more of them.
@rulebraking hey man ! Great to hear it was just something simple like the battery was just low 👍. These are a bit rough on the batteries (I usually end up getting a new one about every three years and I keep the cars in trickle chargers). If these are left unlocked, they don’t ever go into their sleep mode I’ve found. If it’s like mine, once you lock it, the Park led stays lit for 15 mins or so then turns off to show that it went to sleep…if it’s not doing that, then it will keep the electronics all ready to go and will drain the battery. They also have some comfort settings like turning the cabin fans to cool the interior off (accessed by the center display and menu button) that, if enabled, will keep it from going to sleep. These settings weren’t a big deal with the super heavy duty (and quite expensive lol) OE BMW battery, but aftermarket ones just can’t take the constant drain.
For the windows not going back up after the top closes, if it gives the all complete gong and the led on the soft top movement button is green, then it should go ahead and lift the windows like you said. If yours has never done this step, it might be that it was coded out of the coding. If it was doing it before, but now won’t, I’m not really sure as to why it would no longer do it unless they programmed it so that a button can be pressed to enable or disable it (like sliding the mirror adjustment button to the passenger mirror and leaving it there makes the passenger mirror tilt down when backing up). Glad you got it headed in the right direction and all the best !
@@StevesDIYs Hey Steve - many thanks for those pointers - i removed the key from the car and - as you well say, it was keeping it awake as it were. Have since locked the car (so i don't steal it from myself in the garage!) and bingo no drain. Call me simple stupid! You make a good point about the top's complete cycle gong, didn't engage the brain, the M6 does it but not the 650! Will work on that post valve cover gaskets - still don't know if i have a alternator bracket seal leak - simply can't tell but the fact there is a bigger leak on the passenger side bodes well - says he wishful thinking!!! I hear alternator bracket seal can be done by lifting the engine instead of dropping the subframe - have you done this or know any good videos? As always much appreciate your contribution. All the best.
Can you please tell me how to fix engine code p0021 please
Jonathan Martinez , hello...I believe the P0021 code is for the variable valve timing for the engine. From what I’ve seen it could be caused by several things: a failing or bad connection to the cam position sensor (near the firewall on the valve covers of the motor), a broken chain guide, or a bad vanos solenoid. For the broken chain guide or bad solenoid, the motor should be making bad noises I think...for the cam position sensor it should sound relatively normal. I haven’t had this code yet or had to work on the vanos system on mine yet so I don’t have first hand knowledge of this particular issue though. Maybe check on the “Bimmerfest” forum on the internet to see if others have encountered and fixed this issue. Sorry I couldn’t be much help on this, Steve.
Steve’s DIYs I want to change the cam position sensor can you make a video showing where is located please
Jonathan Martinez , hey again...our N62 engine is used in several BMW models....here’s a video of another UA-camr changing he cam position sensor on the same motor. Maybe this will help with the location of them...there are two on each valve cover, one for each intake and one for each exhaust cam: ua-cam.com/video/C5kln7rKfDM/v-deo.html
Steve’s DIYs thank you 🙏🏽