I like that this showed failing to even establish on the first few tries. Problems like that are really discouraging but so much more rewarding when you get them.
Can see potential for a sit start, plus a low right and low left version. With the lake/river situ it's basically Rubicon. Which can only be applauded. Effort.
The crazy thing to me is that this looks like a normal boulder. Idk how to say it better, but it doesn't look like a V16 with any crazy sequences or linking a set of hard boulders. No standout obvious single moves. It looks like a normal, beautiful boulder problem but just next level difficulty. Absolutely stunning.
Probably V16 in the sun. Someone needs to tell Nomura to stop trying boulders in full sun (-; Joking aside, the moves look totally heinous and 2-4 more crash pads could come in useful too.
Pahaha funny how people are commenting that it's not? V16, is that based on your actual climbing knowledge or ability? Or just your prejudices? Do you think mellow would post a video of in your eyes 'a random Japanese guy doing a v5'? Nomura is a beast. And all these comments prove is that we need more coverage of the Japanese scene in the climbing media. Props to mellow for putting them In the spotlight. Also I reckon there's a future sitstart extension to that.
doing an FA is at least 1 grade harder than repeating a climb. That’s why pretty much every climb gets downgraded, because the first ascentionist assigns the grade they personally felt, which is fair. A way to correct this is to simply give one grade lower than it honestly felt
Aged nicely...jokes aside Nomura said he thinks it with get downgraded (gets down twice) plus Tomoa does a sitting start (Ashurado) and thinks it's V15
I know right, Aidan is the crimp Goat. So physched to listen on his podcast he's training for Burden of dreams 9a/v17. Hope he sends it. Guy is a beast
crazy send! I don't even understand how he was able to stick the crux move on the FA. He was so incredibly controlled. From the tries before, it looks like the worst kind of movement, even on good holds, and we all know that whatever kind of hold he's aiming for will be complete shit. I agree that it doesn't really "look like" a V16 but who can tell from a video anyway, we all can see it was tough as nails. This was a sick send and a sick video!
IMO the send is the only time he is using good technique. 2:47 he looks gassed. Doesn't lock off or engage the right arm at all, doesn't engage the toe and cuts his feet for no reason. Looks like a normal system board movement, once he had the energy for it.
Aged nicely...jokes aside Nomura said he thinks it would get downgraded (gets downgraded twice) plus Tomoa flash it, and then does a sitting start (Ashurado) and thinks it's V15 but not 100% sure!
The boulder is beautiful. The moves look brutal. And this video is excellent. I can't help being a tad sceptical on the grade though. 3 moves from a stand start? Easy to say from an armchair critic though. Huge congrats on the FA anyway!
This climb was an open project for 21 years. The first move was considered to be difficult but the crux move where you throw out with your left hand was considered to be virtually impossible to hold. Nomura proposed the grade v16 with the assumption that it will get downgraded eventually but decided to give it a v16 due to the subtleties of the crux move, the fact that it was a project for 21 years, and that he had climbed over a dozen v15s in just a little over a year. Unrelated but Ryuichi, is now starting to believe that Floatin, the v16 he put up a couple moths ago, might be v15. Looks can be deceiving, only time will tell.
My thoughts exactly Carl. That’s a v11. Locking on a 45d edge to a throw to a jug finish? Lmao, get real grading this a V16 FA. Lactose intolerance doesn’t jack your grace up 5. Those crimps are generous, he had the opportunity to lock in the crimp. Maybe the sloper could bump to V12 but a V16 here is a huge stretch. The sheer amount of generous negative grabs after a tough move, lol. Even the overhang for a two move set doesn’t push this into V16 territory. East-asian climbers trying to grade creep, lmao
The boulder looks really technically challenging and not physically demanding.. the left hand looks so good I can’t really understand how this is harder than witness the fitness (V14/+)
3 move V16? It would be interesting to see some other V16 climbers try to repeat this. Those individual moves have to be unimaginably hard (for any body shape) to make this a V16.
@@averykruger4019 Wow. Very interesting context, thank you :) Amazing how easy extremely hard things can look, but I guess that is what dialling the moves is all about.
@@shawnington I don't know where my comment went, but I know for a fact Toshi Takeuchi tried it for a while and said the crux hold was one of the worst he's felt in his life.
I know right! That crux move when he's throwing the left hand and his body is almost horizontal... insanely hard. A bloc does not need 20 moves to be V16.
You're missing the fact that Mellow has completely dropped the ball. This climb is peanuts and big ego pros think they can flex on us and make us feel stupid. They think we can't tell the difference. But we'll show them.
A three move v16? In theory, the moves on this boulder should be comparable to the moves on Burden of Dreams, a v17 with 5 consequential moves. Seems unlikely to me. Probably still quite hard, but might be jumping the gun with the grade.
Huge effort. I am sorry to break it for the guy, but some of the guys out there will do this one after a couple of attempts, therefore no way this is v16
@@rdtarcade7644 it was graded V16 u dumbass and now it's V15. I don't know a single V16 put up in 3 sessions. It's definetely possible and maybe has been done but you're a fucking beast if you can do that.
@@elooouan yeah it was downgraded but the amount of sessions has nothing to do with it bouldering at this level works a little different than you think it does
That’s a v1. Locking on a 45d crimp to a throw to a razor finish? Lmao, get real grading this a V16 FA. Beanie doesn’t jack your grace up 15. Those crimps are generous, you had the opportunity to lock in the crimp. Maybe the sloper could bump to V2 but a V3 here is a huge stretch. The sheer amount of generous negative grabs after a tough move, lol. Even the overhang for a forty-seven move set doesn’t push this into V4 territory. Mellow redditors trying to grade creep, lmao
I rolled my ankles just looking at that pad setup on session 2
Right? I'll be recovering for a week.
one of the cooler backdrops for a boulder problem. sending with a river to your back must be quite the experience 🤙
Immaculate vid. Perfect music, beautiful line, nothing but rock sounds for the FA attempt. This was a joy to see, well done.
After he completed it I was just staring at the water expecting him to jump in.
5:27 No hesitation on the dangerous dyno. Impressive send. Great video.
Nice track, good edit, crazy send, 10/10.
Love seeing footage from the Japanese scene!
Tomoa flash 💀💀💀
I love seeing the projecting from start to finish. Great send.
Team ROKDO are the goats
The music on this is so damn good. Listening in my car absolutely fucking vibing
Seen this guy on Insta, defo one of the strongest guys out there
Holy crap man! That first sequence and then that last move 👌👌🙌🏾
in 3 sessions!
really tough and proud looking problem. well done! now get this man some pads - taking whippers on ridgerests and tarps. damn.
I like that this showed failing to even establish on the first few tries. Problems like that are really discouraging but so much more rewarding when you get them.
Can see potential for a sit start, plus a low right and low left version. With the lake/river situ it's basically Rubicon. Which can only be applauded. Effort.
Great video. Really nice edit. Like the closeup of the holds
The crazy thing to me is that this looks like a normal boulder.
Idk how to say it better, but it doesn't look like a V16 with any crazy sequences or linking a set of hard boulders. No standout obvious single moves.
It looks like a normal, beautiful boulder problem but just next level difficulty. Absolutely stunning.
V6 in my gym
Yeah idk the crimps at that angle tends to make me disagree lol
maybe the slab section makes the grade lol
Craziest thing is, there's a clear sit start extension to this monster...
Probably V16 in the sun. Someone needs to tell Nomura to stop trying boulders in full sun (-; Joking aside, the moves look totally heinous and 2-4 more crash pads could come in useful too.
Another brilliant climb and brilliant Mellow video! Would like to see Aiden on this one
anyone downgrading in the comments is a certified dweebus
Pahaha funny how people are commenting that it's not? V16, is that based on your actual climbing knowledge or ability? Or just your prejudices?
Do you think mellow would post a video of in your eyes 'a random Japanese guy doing a v5'?
Nomura is a beast. And all these comments prove is that we need more coverage of the Japanese scene in the climbing media.
Props to mellow for putting them In the spotlight.
Also I reckon there's a future sitstart extension to that.
They doesnt say its not V16, they say that in the video seems easy for the grade. It seemed to me too. But this is not like saying is not the grade.
v6 in my gym
doing an FA is at least 1 grade harder than repeating a climb. That’s why pretty much every climb gets downgraded, because the first ascentionist assigns the grade they personally felt, which is fair. A way to correct this is to simply give one grade lower than it honestly felt
@@kockarthur7976 that's my approach - especially when setting on woody boards and the moonboard
Aged nicely...jokes aside Nomura said he thinks it with get downgraded (gets down twice) plus Tomoa does a sitting start (Ashurado) and thinks it's V15
All these crazy japanese problems look so Aidan Robertsable. Mellow, make it happen
Aidan isn’t flying anymore for climbing trips. Check his podcast, careless talk, if you want his perspective on this
I know right, Aidan is the crimp Goat. So physched to listen on his podcast he's training for Burden of dreams 9a/v17. Hope he sends it. Guy is a beast
@Marcus L. Why not
@@marcusl.200 If Aidan tries hard enough he can easily jump from Sheffield to Japan. Facts.
@@willh2822 he's trying to be more environmentally conscious and fly less but will drive everywhere instead (if possible)...
what an unbelievably beautiful boulder
My favourite kind of video, so good! Wouldn’t want to slip off that slab at the top 😬
crazy send! I don't even understand how he was able to stick the crux move on the FA. He was so incredibly controlled.
From the tries before, it looks like the worst kind of movement, even on good holds, and we all know that whatever kind of hold he's aiming for will be complete shit.
I agree that it doesn't really "look like" a V16 but who can tell from a video anyway, we all can see it was tough as nails. This was a sick send and a sick video!
IMO the send is the only time he is using good technique. 2:47 he looks gassed. Doesn't lock off or engage the right arm at all, doesn't engage the toe and cuts his feet for no reason. Looks like a normal system board movement, once he had the energy for it.
Been downgraded to v14, Tomao flashed it this year
Holy fuck. 3 moves for 8C+
Because tonight will be the night that I will fall for you. Overrr againnn…
No rope, no ladder, no fan. Just old school projecting.
Simply a great video!
V16 FA in just 3 sessions, crazy
お疲れ様! マジ強い
3:19 when your mind says I GOT IT but your body says FK DAT
holy this looks insane
Aged nicely...jokes aside Nomura said he thinks it would get downgraded (gets downgraded twice) plus Tomoa flash it, and then does a sitting start (Ashurado) and thinks it's V15 but not 100% sure!
The boulder is beautiful. The moves look brutal. And this video is excellent. I can't help being a tad sceptical on the grade though. 3 moves from a stand start? Easy to say from an armchair critic though. Huge congrats on the FA anyway!
He's done a dozen V15s, that seems like enough experience to reason about V16?
This climb was an open project for 21 years. The first move was considered to be difficult but the crux move where you throw out with your left hand was considered to be virtually impossible to hold. Nomura proposed the grade v16 with the assumption that it will get downgraded eventually but decided to give it a v16 due to the subtleties of the crux move, the fact that it was a project for 21 years, and that he had climbed over a dozen v15s in just a little over a year. Unrelated but Ryuichi, is now starting to believe that Floatin, the v16 he put up a couple moths ago, might be v15. Looks can be deceiving, only time will tell.
lmao thanks for the input Carl
My thoughts exactly Carl. That’s a v11. Locking on a 45d edge to a throw to a jug finish? Lmao, get real grading this a V16 FA. Lactose intolerance doesn’t jack your grace up 5. Those crimps are generous, he had the opportunity to lock in the crimp. Maybe the sloper could bump to V12 but a V16 here is a huge stretch. The sheer amount of generous negative grabs after a tough move, lol. Even the overhang for a two move set doesn’t push this into V16 territory.
East-asian climbers trying to grade creep, lmao
The boulder looks really technically challenging and not physically demanding.. the left hand looks so good I can’t really understand how this is harder than witness the fitness (V14/+)
Beast🔥🔥
Yo that was great!
incredible send! i feel like this track is Jan Jelinek, it sounds exactly like Loop-Finding-Jazz-Records but I can’t find the exact song match
So confusing that the track in the background is also my study music, thought i left it on but then realised it was in the video
Close to be a climbing god
3 move V16? It would be interesting to see some other V16 climbers try to repeat this. Those individual moves have to be unimaginably hard (for any body shape) to make this a V16.
It was a long-standing project for something like 20 years, so plenty of strong Japanese climbers have tried it at the least
@@averykruger4019 Wow. Very interesting context, thank you :) Amazing how easy extremely hard things can look, but I guess that is what dialling the moves is all about.
@@averykruger4019 did they actually try it, or was it that one problem with nothing around that wasn't really worth a trip to?
@@shawnington this is a 3 1/2 hr drive from Tokyo so it's most likely been sessioned by Japan's most prolific climbers over the years.
@@shawnington I don't know where my comment went, but I know for a fact Toshi Takeuchi tried it for a while and said the crux hold was one of the worst he's felt in his life.
V16 in 3 sessions?! Must be one of the strongest boulders in the world!
Apparently Sean Bailey did box therapy in 3 sessions too, also Rustim gelmanov did hypnotized minds in 3 sessions
@@alexantone5532 bunch of beasts!
@Alex Antone ye but this is a FA. Completely different
There's an article in Rock and Ice from 2018 talking about how he did two V15's and one V14 in a single day. I'd say the dudes fairly strong
@@thisis27characters and his fingers are just insane(nearly clear one arm pull up on 6 mm)
That was mega!!
Best climbing channel out 🔥
Did he change the boulder from session 1 to 3? I Thought he was going straight up instead of right to the edge. If so, i could be harder still?
Sick! どこにありますか？
動画の最初で書いてあったが、福祉だという
So many armchair boulderers calling this soft in the comments haha
I know right! That crux move when he's throwing the left hand and his body is almost horizontal... insanely hard. A bloc does not need 20 moves to be V16.
Nomura-san does say there's a high possibility of it being downgraded in his interview.
@@imxd9698 Interesting. Very humble of him! Either way, V15 or V16 - it's a sick boulder and a great send.
Lol it just got flashed by tomoa and called v14. I'm with Tristan Chen on this one, armchair climbers are very often right
The same type of people who are "projecting" a V3 at their local climbing gym..
Yep
nice
Where's the sit start?????
anyone got the song name?
Whats the track nameeeeee
V3 in my gym
Who downgraded this thing? I know Ryuychi repeated it and kind of pointed to a possible downgrade but didn't do it himself.
what shoes are those
帅
Top
song?
13?
Fukushima looks rad.
🏇🇹🇷🌹
V16 FA in 3 sessions?
This guy is crazy strong, I wouldn’t doubt it. I guarantee the strongest boulderers in the world probably don’t go on UA-cam
Seems weird to me as well
This guy had the world record for a 1 arm pull-up on the smallest edge
@@callumchater9750 I’ll be back in 3 months when it gets downgraded
Départ sur deux ou trois crash pad...et en deux sessions...soit...je m interroge.
Ça n enleve pas le talent du grimpeur!
De ce que jai compris il a deja fait deux 8c et un 8b+ dans la meme session
If you don't know who he is or his accomplishments then don't question his grading.
v16? I mean, I know everything looks easy on video, but compared to other v16s on video, this doesn't look nearly as hard. What am I missing?
You're missing the fact that Mellow has completely dropped the ball. This climb is peanuts and big ego pros think they can flex on us and make us feel stupid. They think we can't tell the difference. But we'll show them.
you miss climb v16 experience
And the bonus is that you get your yearly dose of radiation in one session!
I’d be curious to see Charles Albert flash it feet first drunk blindfolded.
Moments where armchair graders were right lol
I'll be the first to say it, doesn't look like an 8c+ (when compared other 8c+'s around the world)
A three move v16? In theory, the moves on this boulder should be comparable to the moves on Burden of Dreams, a v17 with 5 consequential moves. Seems unlikely to me. Probably still quite hard, but might be jumping the gun with the grade.
I think you're right bro. I swear there was a v3 in my local real climber gym that looked exactly like this.
nice. the way its solved in the end doesnt look like V16 tbh
Why didn't he just one arm campus it with gloves on??!🥺🥺
Huge effort. I am sorry to break it for the guy, but some of the guys out there will do this one after a couple of attempts, therefore no way this is v16
What’s the hardest grade you’ve sent
not even a couple, just one...
downgraded from V16 to V15. You don't FA V16 in 3 sessions unless you're next level.
please stfu about things you have no idea of
you cant even begin to understand this difficulty or any of the cahllenges that come with it
@@rdtarcade7644 it was graded V16 u dumbass and now it's V15. I don't know a single V16 put up in 3 sessions. It's definetely possible and maybe has been done but you're a fucking beast if you can do that.
@@elooouan yeah it was downgraded but the amount of sessions has nothing to do with it
bouldering at this level works a little different than you think it does
I think its V14 now... Tomoa came and just flash it!
@@androgynousmaggot9389 yeah lmao. Tomoa is goated tho
I can easily imagine Jimmy doing this in one sesh callin it v13
V16? We just throwing that grade out now?
So sorry but its not v16. Look like v10 or max v12.
lmao
That’s a v1. Locking on a 45d crimp to a throw to a razor finish? Lmao, get real grading this a V16 FA. Beanie doesn’t jack your grace up 15. Those crimps are generous, you had the opportunity to lock in the crimp. Maybe the sloper could bump to V2 but a V3 here is a huge stretch. The sheer amount of generous negative grabs after a tough move, lol. Even the overhang for a forty-seven move set doesn’t push this into V4 territory.
Mellow redditors trying to grade creep, lmao
Really awesome showing the whole process, thought there was a better send though