Just completed my ikea kitchen remodel. Watched a lot of videos on “how to” and I got to tell you this one is the most that makes sense to me! Great tips, very detailed explanation. Totally underrated video in my opinion. Thank you so much for taking your time and posting this!
This video is REALLY well done! Definitely appreciate the additional tips you provide that go well beyond what can be found in the installation manual. Thank you.
I must say, this is perfect, I wish I had this a couple days ago when doing a ikea island. It was like watching a movie, very descriptive, perfect speed . thank you
Excellent clear, and detailed information about a kitchen reno, using the equipment created by Ikea, and offering an alternative and simple option to their types of spacers for starters...
Much appreciation for a well done video! The details and pro tips will make my upcoming installation so much better. Thank you for taking the time to post this!
at 3:43 the clips shown are the clips when not using a hanging rail, the hanging rail clips have a hole that looks like a large coma, they are meant to slide sideways so you can fine tune your hanging rail level before tightening down on the coma clips; also the rail should be presented to the wall to insure the stud locations have rail holes lined up on their locations
Hi there, with regards to your Puk lights, why not purchase additional end panels and fit underneath the cabinets? You can router out channels for those wires/ lights and cut out the hole; therefore you do not need an extra shelf and it does away with the hole in the cabinet. Also, you keep the door fittings in the same place. That is how I have fitted all of my lights. No wires are showing.
Thank you a ton, this is extremely useful. I'm a bit confused with your explanations concerning the wages & shimmers adjustment. I don't understand at what time you replace these, with the 5.8" piece of plywood, and also since you're adjusting the shimmers & wages, how can the plywood reflect these changes then (meaning at the time you remove the wages and put the plywood alone)? Sorry for my misunderstanding, the answer is likely quite obvious! Also could you please specify the references of the screws & bits you use to attach the bottom of the frames to the bottoms, to fix the frames together, and to fix the plywood behind the frame? Thank you again for all your advices!
This guide was just superb. Exactly what i needed. Got one question though. In a straight kitchen (no corner cabinets), is it possible to deinstall the end base cabinet without removing the countertop. This is vital for my ikea kitchen plans, since these cabinets would be right next to some pipes, which would potentially require maintenance. Ideally I would like to design the kitchen in such a way that won't require complete reinstallation if something happens to those pipes
This is a very well done VIDEO. Really helps a lot. At IKEA we've been told that the legs of the cabinet s not supposed to support the weight therefore we have to build a frame that the cabinets all sit on. I have watched a lot of videos and nom of the have mentioned anything about it. So my question is can the vab legs support the weight or not? Cheers
Given that the the base units are hung onto the rail, and also with extra screws into the studs, most of the weight is on the studs. Therefore some weight going onto the legs won’t be an issue.
Please explain why exactly you put the block of plywood on the back not the plastic bit? Because it would be possible to lift up the cabinet by accident?
Great video...excellent teacher voice! 😂😂😂 i couldve used this video when installing my ikea cabinets. Can you please partner with Ikea to make their directions easier to understand? I got them in but had a bit of a learning curve, back tracking a bit as i figured it out. But overall no major issues....installing trim has me nervous....hoping this video covers that...still watching....cutting trim today. Wish me luck. 😅
Just watch the toe kick section....darn not as helpful as i was hoping. Im pretty handy but have zero experience in this area wish it was bit more detailed step by step....including different scenerios. I have no uppers only several lowers to fit in between two walls . Beside each end cabinet i have gaps one at about 2 inches.....other at roughly about 4 inches. Walls are not straight. So whats 4 inches at bottom is probably closer to 5 inches toward the top. 🤯🤦♀️ wall scribing is out of my comfort zone. 😢
How did you reinforce the drawer slides? You mentioned that you were going to show how you did after the cabinet was installed but I didn't see that shown later but maybe I missed it. Thanks for the tips!
once all the cabinets are installed and put together you can pre drill a 3mm hole in a few of the remaining holes in the drawer slide and screw in a screw, 1 1/4" if two frames are side by side . This will give great strength to especially 15" high drawers. If a drawer frame is at the end of a run of frames you can still screw in some extra 3/4" screws that would need to be purchased from hardware store ( #8 3/4" countersunk wood screws)
I didn't quite understand the shim/block of ply procedure at the back of the cabinet to achieve the 90°. You appeared to be putting a screw through the back of the cabinet into the ply block and the large shim into the stud. We didn't get to see it but did you saw that large shim off after screwing???
I did wonder, by not using the L shaped back cabinet spacer, replacing it with a block of plywood, would that not put all of the pressure on block then transferring pressure to the somewhat flimsy back panel. While i like your idea for transferring load to the stud, the plastic spacer also puts load on the hardboard frame. Just curious!!
It s help full and a god video. My problem is that I m not good in english... its much better if we can translate. Så it wil be easy for all pr a lot People. Thankyou
I’m am currently doing a full section kitchen and I did not get those same istruction booklets…just the same exact basic booklet for each box…ugh no wonder it’s a mess. I’m just guessing at which drawer front goes with which back..and I have mostly bottom drawers!.Why don’t they just give one big instruction book😒
In the Ikea suspension rail(602.615.27) instruction manual (AA-1054038-6) it says to hang the rails 32 3/16" from the floor but in your video you say 34 1/2" from the floor, why is your measurement different to Ikeas? Similarly your measurement is 94 1/2" whereas iKea instruction manual says 92 3/126" and 84 1/2" vs 82 3/16"
He might be going from the top of the rail? In any case it's definitely 32 3/16" from the bottom of the rail. Lots of people on these IKEA instructional videos coming up with other numbers when it's very clearly stated by IKEA.
Most quartz counters are 3cm thick which is the most widely used counter material. Our measurement reflects this to have your finished counter height 36" Good luck with the install.
@@switchdoor2011 you explained that perfectly in the video but, no one pays attention anymore. It all depends on the thickness of the counter top you’ll be using
You can do it. Find a trusted friend who is patient and do this together. Rent the tools you need at the time you need them and methodically go through the stages step by step. Good luck and enjoy
@@switchdoor2011 Thank you for not being offended 🙂 "Incorrect" may not describe what I meant to, but certain things don't make sense at all. My comments below are based on Ikea's own instructions and best practices from installing 200+ Ikea kitchens personally. Did I learn something from your video? Yes, opening the boxes with a putty knife. Good idea. RAILS: Measurements for the rail. It is not 34 1/2" to the top of the rail, but 32 3/16" to the bottom. The top of the rail is not at the same height as the top of the cabinet, but a bit lower. The same goes for the pantry cabinets. Not 94 1/2" and 84 1/2" but 92 3/16" and 82 3/16". Also, when hanging the rails it is important to mention that if the floor goes in after the kitchen, the rails should be offset with the thickness of the rail. Drilling holes in the rails for screws take away any option to adjust the rails in height. Not needed and a waste of time if you ask me. CABINETS: Drilling holes for screws into the cabinet cables is pointless. Not needed. The lock nut/disc is doing a great job and when cabinets are sitting shoulder to shoulder, they cannot come apart. Measuring the diagonal before nailing...pointless as you use the back as a square (as described by Ikea too). Alternatively use a carpenter's square. Cabinet assembly can be done in many ways. Yours are not great IMHO. DRAWER ASSEMBLY: There's a much better way of putting the hardware together, and countings holes for positioning the hardware inside the cabinet is not needed as well. Counting is so time-consuming. I am not going to explain why and how I do it as it will become too long a story. Securing an island to the floor. Why not use the island kit? Your process "must be done over a couple of days"....wow... Black/yellow screws for securing cabinets together. Seriously? I agree that the plastic things at the bottom of the wall cabinets are poop but going through the whole ordeal with the wooden strips. Phew....makes me exhausted. And forever and ever, the client has to look at a screw at the back inside the wall cabinet. Not cool. Potlights with a double bottom/shelf? I am flabbergasted. It must take you forever to install a kitchen, based on what I see. Handdriven screwdriver for drawer hardware. Counting holes. Waiting for the glue to cure and so on. 80% of my kitchens are installed in four days. Top job.
Sorry to hear that your experience with Ikea was not a good one. Our company just uses their frames and drawer hardware. Then we install our own doors and panels. We have over 300 styles to choose from. This video also shows you how to make the Ikea frames much stronger.
@@James-dy6zh I am talking about the Fake product that is being sold in US market. I have spent over $8K on their kitchen cabinet which worth nothing, the laminated cover on the doors and drawers near by the kitchen sync pilled off after the fist few months. Their customer service is next to poor. By the way learn how to talk to people online before being reported!!! I mean it!
Excellent, but missing the piece I was really looking for. You can see a gap from the top of the wall cabinets to the ceiling. I wanted to see some solutions for that. To me that gap just does not look good at all. I watched another video after making the above comment and discovered IKEA recommends fixing the wall cabinet rail no closer than 3/4" distance from the ceiling. That 3/4" is the exact thickness of the IKEA Decor strip. So I am assuming the decor strip will fill that gap completely as long as I take the time to level the ceiling with plaster mortar or mud as they call it.
The best solution here is after you have installed all your uppers and hung the doors so everything looks good. Remove the doors and install a piece of primed material shaping it to fill the gap between the cabinets and the ceiling. Caulk any gaps and paint this piece same colour as your ceiling. This is the best solution I I found over the 35 years of installing kitchens.
CUIDADO CON IKEA, a mi madre le iban a instalar la encimera el martes 20/12/2022, el 19 le llegó el pedido de IKEA y retiramos la encimera antigua que estaba rota. Nadie la llamó el martes 20, llamé para preguntar y me dijeron que todo estaba correcto y no había ningún problema que la instalarían el miércoles 23, tampoco se la colocaron ese día, ni nadie la llamó. Hoy jueves 23 ha recibido en SMS, dándole una nueva cita para el 27/12/2022. Teníamos previsto celebrar la comida de navidad con ella en su casa, tiene 80 años, pero cocina muy bien y le gusta cocinar. IKEA nos ha roto las navidades, me parece inhumano, injusto y cruel. Sentimos una tremenda impotencia, ya está todo pagado y no podemos costearnos otra encimera. Por favor a quien lea esta reseña que la difunda lo máximo posible para que nadie vuelva a quedarse otra vez sin NAVIDAD. Gracias.
Congrats for the video, it is really helpful, I´m installing the kitchen but I did not find the studs, it is possible that the complete wall is built of concrete, should I use dowels / anchors to fix the rail?
The best IKEA cabinet install guide found on UA-cam.
Wow, thanks! Hope your installation goes well.
By FAR, the best IKEA furniture install video I found. Great job!
Just completed my ikea kitchen remodel. Watched a lot of videos on “how to” and I got to tell you this one is the most that makes sense to me! Great tips, very detailed explanation. Totally underrated video in my opinion. Thank you so much for taking your time and posting this!
Thank you, very pleased to help you complete your project
That is so great to hear!!! IKEA KITCHENS ARE THE BEST, 25 YR WARRANTY!
This is THE BEST video I’ve watched about Ikea! Thanks so much!
This was the most professional and detailed video I have found on the web.
This video is REALLY well done! Definitely appreciate the additional tips you provide that go well beyond what can be found in the installation manual. Thank you.
This is the most helpful IKEA kitchen install video I’ve seen thus far. Thank you for the clear and detailed tips!!
I must say, this is perfect, I wish I had this a couple days ago when doing a ikea island. It was like watching a movie, very descriptive, perfect speed . thank you
Excellent clear, and detailed information about a kitchen reno, using the equipment created by Ikea, and offering an alternative and simple option to their types of spacers for starters...
Absolutely the best demonstration video. Thank you
Hi from US...Best video I have seen on this subject. Thank you!
Why is it that all the cool stuff that I find on youtube, the companies are in Canada and the UK
Much appreciation for a well done video! The details and pro tips will make my upcoming installation so much better. Thank you for taking the time to post this!
at 3:43 the clips shown are the clips when not using a hanging rail, the hanging rail clips have a hole that looks like a large coma, they are meant to slide sideways so you can fine tune your hanging rail level before tightening down on the coma clips; also the rail should be presented to the wall to insure the stud locations have rail holes lined up on their locations
best video yet! thank you
Hi there, with regards to your Puk lights, why not purchase additional end panels and fit underneath the cabinets? You can router out channels for those wires/ lights and cut out the hole; therefore you do not need an extra shelf and it does away with the hole in the cabinet. Also, you keep the door fittings in the same place.
That is how I have fitted all of my lights. No wires are showing.
some very good tips there, thank you
Thank you a ton, this is extremely useful. I'm a bit confused with your explanations concerning the wages & shimmers adjustment. I don't understand at what time you replace these, with the 5.8" piece of plywood, and also since you're adjusting the shimmers & wages, how can the plywood reflect these changes then (meaning at the time you remove the wages and put the plywood alone)? Sorry for my misunderstanding, the answer is likely quite obvious! Also could you please specify the references of the screws & bits you use to attach the bottom of the frames to the bottoms, to fix the frames together, and to fix the plywood behind the frame? Thank you again for all your advices!
Extremely informative and detailed. Thanks for all the tips.
Very well done. I was able to successfully complete my kitchen install with your help. Thank you....
That's awesome Stephen, send some pictures of your new space , it would be great to see. Robert
Thank you for taking the time to put this instructions together. Very very helpful.
Thank you. Your tips were very helpful.
thank you for all the tips!
Great video, pleasant to watch
This was great - thank you!
This guide was just superb. Exactly what i needed. Got one question though. In a straight kitchen (no corner cabinets), is it possible to deinstall the end base cabinet without removing the countertop. This is vital for my ikea kitchen plans, since these cabinets would be right next to some pipes, which would potentially require maintenance. Ideally I would like to design the kitchen in such a way that won't require complete reinstallation if something happens to those pipes
Super video thankyou
THE BEST VIDEO !!
This is a very well done VIDEO. Really helps a lot. At IKEA we've been told that the legs of the cabinet s not supposed to support the weight therefore we have to build a frame that the cabinets all sit on. I have watched a lot of videos and nom of the have mentioned anything about it. So my question is can the vab legs support the weight or not? Cheers
Given that the the base units are hung onto the rail, and also with extra screws into the studs, most of the weight is on the studs.
Therefore some weight going onto the legs won’t be an issue.
Please explain why exactly you put the block of plywood on the back not the plastic bit? Because it would be possible to lift up the cabinet by accident?
Great tips
Thank you! That was excellent!
Great video...excellent teacher voice! 😂😂😂 i couldve used this video when installing my ikea cabinets. Can you please partner with Ikea to make their directions easier to understand? I got them in but had a bit of a learning curve, back tracking a bit as i figured it out. But overall no major issues....installing trim has me nervous....hoping this video covers that...still watching....cutting trim today. Wish me luck. 😅
Just watch the toe kick section....darn not as helpful as i was hoping. Im pretty handy but have zero experience in this area wish it was bit more detailed step by step....including different scenerios. I have no uppers only several lowers to fit in between two walls . Beside each end cabinet i have gaps one at about 2 inches.....other at roughly about 4 inches. Walls are not straight. So whats 4 inches at bottom is probably closer to 5 inches toward the top. 🤯🤦♀️ wall scribing is out of my comfort zone. 😢
How did you reinforce the drawer slides? You mentioned that you were going to show how you did after the cabinet was installed but I didn't see that shown later but maybe I missed it. Thanks for the tips!
once all the cabinets are installed and put together you can pre drill a 3mm hole in a few of the remaining holes in the drawer slide and screw in a screw, 1 1/4" if two frames are side by side . This will give great strength to especially 15" high drawers. If a drawer frame is at the end of a run of frames you can still screw in some extra 3/4" screws that would need to be purchased from hardware store ( #8 3/4" countersunk wood screws)
great. nice video. helped me alot
Thank you so much, this is so helpful 👏👏👏
Great detailed video!! Thanks
Thank you. We hope that your kitchen has turned out well and you are enjoying your new space
Excellent Video.
Upper Cabinet what are the size required and show Video for installation.
Thanks
I didn't quite understand the shim/block of ply procedure at the back of the cabinet to achieve the 90°. You appeared to be putting a screw through the back of the cabinet into the ply block and the large shim into the stud. We didn't get to see it but did you saw that large shim off after screwing???
Same here. I wanted to see if he removed it or sawed the exposed portion off.
@switchdoor2011 Exactly the only part I really needed to see. Has this been addressed?
I did wonder, by not using the L shaped back cabinet spacer, replacing it with a block of plywood, would that not put all of the pressure on block then transferring pressure to the somewhat flimsy back panel. While i like your idea for transferring load to the stud, the plastic spacer also puts load on the hardboard frame. Just curious!!
It s help full and a god video. My problem is that I m not good in english... its much better if we can translate. Så it wil be easy for all pr a lot People. Thankyou
beautiful!
Thank you
When hanging the uppers, do you screw through the plywood block and shims together? Do you then cut the excess shim off at the base of the cabinet?
Yes, You've got it. This really helps secure the box to the wall
Yes, that is correct
I’m am currently doing a full section kitchen and I did not get those same istruction booklets…just the same exact basic booklet for each box…ugh no wonder it’s a mess. I’m just guessing at which drawer front goes with which back..and I have mostly bottom drawers!.Why don’t they just give one big instruction book😒
In the Ikea suspension rail(602.615.27) instruction manual (AA-1054038-6) it says to hang the rails 32 3/16" from the floor but in your video you say 34 1/2" from the floor, why is your measurement different to Ikeas? Similarly your measurement is 94 1/2" whereas iKea instruction manual says 92 3/126" and 84 1/2" vs 82 3/16"
He might be going from the top of the rail? In any case it's definitely 32 3/16" from the bottom of the rail. Lots of people on these IKEA instructional videos coming up with other numbers when it's very clearly stated by IKEA.
@@AC-cg6op Yeah that’s probably it, measuring in reference to the top of the rail. Thanks
Most quartz counters are 3cm thick which is the most widely used counter material. Our measurement reflects this to have your finished counter height 36"
Good luck with the install.
@@switchdoor2011 you explained that perfectly in the video but, no one pays attention anymore. It all depends on the thickness of the counter top you’ll be using
Could you please write the company name of the blue/red plastic spacers you use for hanging rails? Tnx
They are found at most tile stores and Home Depot in tile supply section
I agree very nicely done. Where can i get those shims for the wall rail?
Any tiling supplier inc Home Depot
Would love to have a new kitchen but I would need IKEA to install it
You can do it. Find a trusted friend who is patient and do this together. Rent the tools you need at the time you need them and methodically go through the stages step by step. Good luck and enjoy
How much the total cost for this project?
Please contact us and we can chat about that
Please ask your company in singapore is recruiting people to work I want to join the job I have experience in doing this job thank you
Very detailed but, unfortunately, incorrect in so many places. Watched all of it.
Please let me know where you feel we went wrong. Always willing to learn
@@switchdoor2011 Thank you for not being offended 🙂 "Incorrect" may not describe what I meant to, but certain things don't make sense at all.
My comments below are based on Ikea's own instructions and best practices from installing 200+ Ikea kitchens personally.
Did I learn something from your video? Yes, opening the boxes with a putty knife. Good idea.
RAILS: Measurements for the rail. It is not 34 1/2" to the top of the rail, but 32 3/16" to the bottom. The top of the rail is not at the same height as the top of the cabinet, but a bit lower. The same goes for the pantry cabinets. Not 94 1/2" and 84 1/2" but 92 3/16" and 82 3/16". Also, when hanging the rails it is important to mention that if the floor goes in after the kitchen, the rails should be offset with the thickness of the rail.
Drilling holes in the rails for screws take away any option to adjust the rails in height. Not needed and a waste of time if you ask me.
CABINETS: Drilling holes for screws into the cabinet cables is pointless. Not needed. The lock nut/disc is doing a great job and when cabinets are sitting shoulder to shoulder, they cannot come apart. Measuring the diagonal before nailing...pointless as you use the back as a square (as described by Ikea too). Alternatively use a carpenter's square. Cabinet assembly can be done in many ways. Yours are not great IMHO.
DRAWER ASSEMBLY: There's a much better way of putting the hardware together, and countings holes for positioning the hardware inside the cabinet is not needed as well. Counting is so time-consuming. I am not going to explain why and how I do it as it will become too long a story.
Securing an island to the floor. Why not use the island kit? Your process "must be done over a couple of days"....wow...
Black/yellow screws for securing cabinets together. Seriously?
I agree that the plastic things at the bottom of the wall cabinets are poop but going through the whole ordeal with the wooden strips. Phew....makes me exhausted. And forever and ever, the client has to look at a screw at the back inside the wall cabinet. Not cool.
Potlights with a double bottom/shelf? I am flabbergasted.
It must take you forever to install a kitchen, based on what I see. Handdriven screwdriver for drawer hardware. Counting holes. Waiting for the glue to cure and so on.
80% of my kitchens are installed in four days. Top job.
Inches, cm's and mm's...why !! ?
You are a handsome young boy 🥰
Jakie zacofanie! Czemu nie wykorzystacie systemu "PRO" i wtedy każda szuflada pasuje, nie ma znaczenia czy dolna czy środkowa? Średniowiecze.
So much more helpful than IKEA and their stupid instructions.
4:33 oh boy, 30 years of experience and this guy uses the smallest screw heads I have ever seen 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
not even a washer under the head 😂😂😂😂
Cabinets are garbage
extremely bad quality for kitchen. Mine didn't even last 6 months! Their customer service is even worse than the quality of their product! No to Ikea
Sorry to hear that your experience with Ikea was not a good one. Our company just uses their frames and drawer hardware. Then we install our own doors and panels. We have over 300 styles to choose from. This video also shows you how to make the Ikea frames much stronger.
IKEA has a 25 year warranty on their cabinets and 5 year install warranty, wtf r u talking about
@@James-dy6zh I am talking about the Fake product that is being sold in US market. I have spent over $8K on their kitchen cabinet which worth nothing, the laminated cover on the doors and drawers near by the kitchen sync pilled off after the fist few months. Their customer service is next to poor. By the way learn how to talk to people online before being reported!!! I mean it!
Can you support the channel please?
@khossrov Mate sort yourself out, you're all over the place. Hope you're ok.
.
.
.
Cheers.
.
.
Excellent, but missing the piece I was really looking for. You can see a gap from the top of the wall cabinets to the ceiling. I wanted to see some solutions for that. To me that gap just does not look good at all.
I watched another video after making the above comment and discovered IKEA recommends fixing the wall cabinet rail no closer than 3/4" distance from the ceiling. That 3/4" is the exact thickness of the IKEA Decor strip. So I am assuming the decor strip will fill that gap completely as long as I take the time to level the ceiling with plaster mortar or mud as they call it.
The best solution here is after you have installed all your uppers and hung the doors so everything looks good. Remove the doors and install a piece of primed material shaping it to fill the gap between the cabinets and the ceiling. Caulk any gaps and paint this piece same colour as your ceiling. This is the best solution I I found over the 35 years of installing kitchens.
Simply fantastic video!.. Thank you.
Incredibly well detailed video. Thank you. I feel like I can put together and install IKEA cabinets. This gives me hope : )
Words of the moment:
"Actually" and "Actual"...........
Other than teeth grindingly irritating for that reason, good video.
Did not show fitting of the kitchen top.........
CUIDADO CON IKEA, a mi madre le iban a instalar la encimera el martes 20/12/2022, el 19 le llegó el pedido de IKEA y retiramos la encimera antigua que estaba rota. Nadie la llamó el martes 20, llamé para preguntar y me dijeron que todo estaba correcto y no había ningún problema que la instalarían el miércoles 23, tampoco se la colocaron ese día, ni nadie la llamó. Hoy jueves 23 ha recibido en SMS, dándole una nueva cita para el 27/12/2022. Teníamos previsto celebrar la comida de navidad con ella en su casa, tiene 80 años, pero cocina muy bien y le gusta cocinar. IKEA nos ha roto las navidades, me parece inhumano, injusto y cruel. Sentimos una tremenda impotencia, ya está todo pagado y no podemos costearnos otra encimera. Por favor a quien lea esta reseña que la difunda lo máximo posible para que nadie vuelva a quedarse otra vez sin NAVIDAD. Gracias.
Yikes ---- that was incredible. Thank you!!!
Badass level I've seen!
This does not tell you how far down from ceiling the rails should be located when hanging upper cabinets.
wish he showed how he pushed up the plywood piece behind at 24:48, because his shim pieces are there already.
Congrats for the video, it is really helpful, I´m installing the kitchen but I did not find the studs, it is possible that the complete wall is built of concrete, should I use dowels / anchors to fix the rail?
You would need to use concrete anchors in this situation
really good tips. Thank you
Thank you so much this is a good video
A very good video. Clear and easy to follow.
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