So I just failed a fillet weld test today! I'm a seasoned MIG welder and just diving into the TIG realm. I'm hooked and can't wait to expand my abilities! Dusty, you have really helped me out buddy and I watch all of your videos and love your dynamic of positivity! Thank you!
Thanks! Yeah I’ve not really seen anyone do it, just figured out it worked better for using a smaller rod for dexterity, but I can get enough fill that way. Cheers and I appreciate you checking out the vid!
Hey there Brother. I just found you on UA-cam, as I just got my first TIG Welder. While I find your videos very informative, honestly, my favorite part is the end when you talk about doing random acts of kindness for people... I love that sentiment, and you videos are pretty darn good too...hahahah. Thank you.
Great video, along with great explanations of everything you do! Love the end of all your vids!!! Positivity! I will definitely try the double stuff method. Thanks again Dusty!!
just had to submit my tig welding papers for mechanical engineering level 3 in NZ... 3mm LCMS butt, filet and lap joins, 1.5mm stainless butt and filet join, and 3mm aluminium butt and filet join, and learning the characteristics of them has been cool!, You have had a huge influence on how ive been doing with my grades. thank you
As always wonderful job! Instructional ones getting better and better bud, nice job with the voice over doing the welding! ;) starting to hang with the big dogs! Lol
I am not familiar with the gas lenses using the screens and I noticed in this video it looked like you had about two or three of the screens in the lens and I'm wondering why so many and what is it actually accomplishing using so many instead of just one? I've got to say that I just found your UA-cam channel and have been TIG welding for over 30 years all self taught and you've taught me some new things and I appreciate that.
idk why i was taught to do a fillet 2:09 flat like that, seems so much harder to even see your puddle moving almost backwards toward yourself.. a good skill to have i guess, but seems so much harder.
I want to try out tig welding and have been looking at the Yeswelder 250p ac/dc welder. I have never tiged before so would I be better off just starting with their 205 tig welder that can't do Aluminum??? It isn't that much money for the unit and I can at least get my feet wet????? Your help is needed. B
Thank you bro! If you could answer a couple of basic questions for me I would appreciate it! Can I adjust my stickout so that I can ride my cup along both pieces of material and I didnt catch the filler rod size. Thank you in advance
Might be tricky, but I guess you could. I never like to do that personally, because my cup always seems to get caught on something :-) the Filler rod size was 1/16 of an inch :-) thanks so much for watching!
Thank you so much, and don't know why youtube has been unsubscribeing me off of some of my favorite channels, but just a thought you might want to ask people to check and make sure that they are sub'd cuz I know that its happening to a lot of people
I know this is just for test but shouldn't you use 308 rod for SS304 otherwise? 316 contain molybdenum and other stuff which 304 doesn't and the dissimilarity can cause problems as I understand it.
I usually use 332 for almost everything, just to keep it simple, as well as I have everything in my shop set up for this size electrode. I appreciate you watching!
My only welding experience from earlier is migwelding. Whats your opinion about ac/dc tigwelding maschines in the pricerange of around 1000 us dollars. Is it just a waste of money or can it work. This is on a purely non professional basis. My first project is stainless material, a woodgasifier. thats why i am researching for a tig maschine now. But the thought of beeing able to do aluminium welding at some point later on is also of interest for me. How would you rate the capability of a new cheap,(the pricerange i mentioned above), ac/dc tig machine in the respective material stainless and aluminium.
From australia my thoughts are dont go below 200 amps , most 200 amps are big enough , for handy man work, my saying is what you pay for is what you get , go cheap , get crap , spending that bit more you wont regret it hope i help , to answer your question ? Regards from australia
@@timothyrouse2853 Hello from snowy and cold Sweden. Yes i think you´re right there. Probably a good idea to stay away from the absolutely cheapest maschines. Just after i watched this clip, i saw in the video list to the right, he had a review of a canweld maschine. That one looked really fine to me, and at a very good pricelevel. Unfortunately it seems like there is no sales representation for that brand outside of US and Canada.
Complete newbie here. Is it possible not to penetrate all the way through? If you didn’t want too of course. I am welding SS exhaust tubing. I do not want to penetrate into the backside
Hello! I’m new to your videos, but after seeing another gentleman who is quite informative also, they use Furick cups almost exclusively. Through your vids and instagram, I now see the clear edge cups. What are the pro’s and con’s of each cup vs each other? By chance can you do a video on each?
Ooooooh good idea! Honestly I find no difference between the two. Each take a little bit of tinkering with the gas level to get perfect, but I find performance the same for each of them. I do have a Furick cup, but it’s a ceramic one, so not glass. I definitely prefer to see through, that’s why I always use the glass ones :-)
@@PacificArcTigWelding awesome!!! I just got some 8 cups and a fupa 12 go go with the Miller multimatic 215 my dad gave me. I’m just getting started, but more of a hobbyist is what I may be towards later once I get it all down. Had a crash course in use of the machine and technique this past week from my dad who has been welding since he was 14...now 71y/o.
This was cool, and I learn a lot from your content, but it would have been more helpful to show it being welded upright and how to deal with that. Very rarely are you going to get the chance to tilt your work like this.
I was disappointed you totally blew off shielding of the back side with either Argon or Solar Flux. I know that sugaring is no big deal for artwork, but in the real world, stainless is used for its corrosion and strength properties. If you fail to shield the back side, your work is doomed to poor performance in both these areas.
@@egSmith-sp9gl - not everyone is as knowledgeable as you and I. You gotta crawl before you can walk, and casual viewers will not be aware of this critical aspect of stainless that needs to be addressed before you ever put on the hood. If Dusty trains people, I would expect him to wipe down each joint (and maybe the filler too) with acetone degreaser and hit aluminum with a stainless brush to remove the oxide layer. If he's just showing how to get pretty oxide colors in SS, I would agree with you, but if he's teaching noobs how to weld stainless, he needs to at least mention the critical prep work in passing. I'm OK if we disagree on this. That's what makes the world go 'round. I've been welding since 1970, and there's always more to learn.
So, one must always shield the back on stainless? Dumb question… I’m guessing if another bead is required on the opposite side, it does not need to be shielded due to the first bead on the first side - correct?
@@YT-User1013 - The chromium in stainless is highly reactive and an oxide layer creates its "stainless" properties, much like aluminum. Molten SS reacts with air to create an ugly porous black chromium oxide (resembling burnt sugar, hence the term "sugaring") and in so doing depletes the underlying alloy of this essential element. At this point, the damage is done and another pass on the back side will not even be possible. IF you are able to limit penetration such that the surface of the back side remains solid, you can often squeak by without shielding it from ambient air. This is the case, for example, with welding a sensor bung into an exhaust pipe. The strength is not an issue so you can just kiss the pipe wall with your bead and get by without shielding on the back side. If it were food service piping, you would need to purge all the air out of the pipe with argon and make a full penetration weld so the back side would be smooth, with no cracks to trap bacteria. If you're welding up a stainless exhaust system where resistance to fatigue cracks is important, a cheaper and simpler alternative to argon purging is Solar Flux (a military secret during WW-II) which is a powder you mix with methanol and paint onto the inside of the tubing. It creates a protective film like molten glass over the molten stainless and enables full penetration welds. It's a bi*ch to remove so it's not used where contaminants are a concern. One other property of SS that gives you fits in welding projects is thermal distortion because its coefficient of thermal expansion is very high but its thermal conductivity is fairly low.
Thanks SO MUCH for checking this vid out. See my latest ART PROJECT here🔥🔥🔥 ua-cam.com/video/xzS-g7HPBaE/v-deo.html
So I just failed a fillet weld test today! I'm a seasoned MIG welder and just diving into the TIG realm. I'm hooked and can't wait to expand my abilities! Dusty, you have really helped me out buddy and I watch all of your videos and love your dynamic of positivity! Thank you!
Short videos are my preference.
Every video you do is quality, helpful stuff. Keep up the positivity!
Good to know:) Happy to contribute! Cheers Kevin!🤙
Great video, first time ever seeing the double dipping method too.
Thanks! Yeah I’ve not really seen anyone do it, just figured out it worked better for using a smaller rod for dexterity, but I can get enough fill that way. Cheers and I appreciate you checking out the vid!
Hey there Brother. I just found you on UA-cam, as I just got my first TIG Welder. While I find your videos very informative, honestly, my favorite part is the end when you talk about doing random acts of kindness for people... I love that sentiment, and you videos are pretty darn good too...hahahah. Thank you.
You’re the man! We need the positivity and clean education on UA-cam! Keep up the great work buddy!!
My students enjoyed watching your video. Keep the content coming! Thank you.
Great video, along with great explanations of everything you do! Love the end of all your vids!!! Positivity! I will definitely try the double stuff method. Thanks again Dusty!!
just had to submit my tig welding papers for mechanical engineering level 3 in NZ... 3mm LCMS butt, filet and lap joins, 1.5mm stainless butt and filet join, and 3mm aluminium butt and filet join, and learning the characteristics of them has been cool!, You have had a huge influence on how ive been doing with my grades.
thank you
Another great video, and love your positive attitude!
Thanks Glenn! I appreciate you watching!
Short and to the point is great.
Another top video dusty, always pick up little gem's of knowledge from you 😉🤝👍
Dang dude. You are really good.
You da man Fyfe
As always wonderful job! Instructional ones getting better and better bud, nice job with the voice over doing the welding! ;) starting to hang with the big dogs! Lol
I appreciate it bro🙏 Just trying to level up and learn more:)
Nice and clean work as always Dusty💯💯💯
Cheers my bro!🙏🙏🙏
Great videos as always!!!🤙🤙
Nice video! Thank you
Have u tried doing a moc test for getting tig certified like as a doing this this and this can help
I would be interested in a short video about fillet weld of 1mm thick plates. :)
Thanks LARRYMOORE
Nice tips, as always!
I would buy a t-shirt with your logo, front and back!!
I hope it will happen one day.
Thanks! And shirts will happen sooner than you think...!🙏🙏🙏
@@PacificArcTigWelding
I can't wait 😁🙌
I will buy 2 for sure!!!
I am not familiar with the gas lenses using the screens and I noticed in this video it looked like you had about two or three of the screens in the lens and I'm wondering why so many and what is it actually accomplishing using so many instead of just one?
I've got to say that I just found your UA-cam channel and have been TIG welding for over 30 years all self taught and you've taught me some new things and I appreciate that.
idk why i was taught to do a fillet 2:09 flat like that, seems so much harder to even see your puddle moving almost backwards toward yourself.. a good skill to have i guess, but seems so much harder.
What about thin to thick t joints like .035 to .063 316L stainless steel?
Great video Dusty. I've been curious how to determine when something needs weld on both sides vs just one side?
Very situational really, depends on what it is, what’s on the backside, what loads required, etc. Usually boils down to me asking an engineer 😂🍻
@@PacificArcTigWelding Ha. I guess I'll have to become good friends with an engineer.
Beautiful ❤️🕉️❤️
I’d like to see a shot of the actual welding current. I know you’re on 70amps max but just how much of that do you use with the pedal?
What tungsten did you use ?
Great work by the way !!
I want to try out tig welding and have been looking at the Yeswelder 250p ac/dc welder. I have never tiged before so would I be better off just starting with their 205 tig welder that can't do Aluminum??? It isn't that much money for the unit and I can at least get my feet wet?????
Your help is needed.
B
Do you do any TIG tube welding like roll cages? Any tips?
Thank you bro! If you could answer a couple of basic questions for me I would appreciate it! Can I adjust my stickout so that I can ride my cup along both pieces of material and I didnt catch the filler rod size. Thank you in advance
Might be tricky, but I guess you could. I never like to do that personally, because my cup always seems to get caught on something :-) the Filler rod size was 1/16 of an inch :-) thanks so much for watching!
Thank you so much, and don't know why youtube has been unsubscribeing me off of some of my favorite channels, but just a thought you might want to ask people to check and make sure that they are sub'd cuz I know that its happening to a lot of people
please make a video on how to clean contaminated tungsten.
He did…ua-cam.com/video/SwdREabxSgE/v-deo.html
What do you use to remove the discoloration?
I know this is just for test but shouldn't you use 308 rod for SS304 otherwise? 316 contain molybdenum and other stuff which 304 doesn't and the dissimilarity can cause problems as I understand it.
Dusty, how do you determine the tungsten size that you use?
Thanks these videos help alot.
I usually use 332 for almost everything, just to keep it simple, as well as I have everything in my shop set up for this size electrode. I appreciate you watching!
My only welding experience from earlier is migwelding. Whats your opinion about ac/dc tigwelding maschines in the pricerange of around 1000 us dollars. Is it just a waste of money or can it work. This is on a purely non professional basis. My first project is stainless material, a woodgasifier. thats why i am researching for a tig maschine now. But the thought of beeing able to do aluminium welding at some point later on is also of interest for me. How would you rate the capability of a new cheap,(the pricerange i mentioned above), ac/dc tig machine in the respective material stainless and aluminium.
From australia my thoughts are dont go below 200 amps , most 200 amps are big enough , for handy man work, my saying is what you pay for is what you get , go cheap , get crap , spending that bit more you wont regret it hope i help , to answer your question ? Regards from australia
@@timothyrouse2853 Hello from snowy and cold Sweden. Yes i think you´re right there. Probably a good idea to stay away from the absolutely cheapest maschines. Just after i watched this clip, i saw in the video list to the right, he had a review of a canweld maschine. That one looked really fine to me, and at a very good pricelevel. Unfortunately it seems like there is no sales representation for that brand outside of US and Canada.
@@rogerhamberg1266 check out the kempi range of welders?
PrimeWeld 225 AC/DC TIG welder. About $800
Complete newbie here. Is it possible not to penetrate all the way through? If you didn’t want too of course. I am welding SS exhaust tubing. I do not want to penetrate into the backside
Well, practice and purge. Purge.....
Double tapping
i like to help another person
🙏🙏🙏🙏
Hello! I’m new to your videos, but after seeing another gentleman who is quite informative also, they use Furick cups almost exclusively. Through your vids and instagram, I now see the clear edge cups. What are the pro’s and con’s of each cup vs each other? By chance can you do a video on each?
Ooooooh good idea! Honestly I find no difference between the two. Each take a little bit of tinkering with the gas level to get perfect, but I find performance the same for each of them. I do have a Furick cup, but it’s a ceramic one, so not glass. I definitely prefer to see through, that’s why I always use the glass ones :-)
@@PacificArcTigWelding awesome!!! I just got some 8 cups and a fupa 12 go go with the Miller multimatic 215 my dad gave me. I’m just getting started, but more of a hobbyist is what I may be towards later once I get it all down. Had a crash course in use of the machine and technique this past week from my dad who has been welding since he was 14...now 71y/o.
Мне такая толстовка нужна очень))
This was cool, and I learn a lot from your content, but it would have been more helpful to show it being welded upright and how to deal with that. Very rarely are you going to get the chance to tilt your work like this.
I was disappointed you totally blew off shielding of the back side with either Argon or Solar Flux. I know that sugaring is no big deal for artwork, but in the real world, stainless is used for its corrosion and strength properties. If you fail to shield the back side, your work is doomed to poor performance in both these areas.
He's just showing some technics for a fillet weld....... You totally miss the point dude.
@@egSmith-sp9gl - not everyone is as knowledgeable as you and I. You gotta crawl before you can walk, and casual viewers will not be aware of this critical aspect of stainless that needs to be addressed before you ever put on the hood. If Dusty trains people, I would expect him to wipe down each joint (and maybe the filler too) with acetone degreaser and hit aluminum with a stainless brush to remove the oxide layer. If he's just showing how to get pretty oxide colors in SS, I would agree with you, but if he's teaching noobs how to weld stainless, he needs to at least mention the critical prep work in passing. I'm OK if we disagree on this. That's what makes the world go 'round. I've been welding since 1970, and there's always more to learn.
@@ralphwaters8905 Make your own video and learn to shut up !
I didn't even read you !!!
So, one must always shield the back on stainless?
Dumb question…
I’m guessing if another bead is required on the opposite side, it does not need to be shielded due to the first bead on the first side - correct?
@@YT-User1013 - The chromium in stainless is highly reactive and an oxide layer creates its "stainless" properties, much like aluminum. Molten SS reacts with air to create an ugly porous black chromium oxide (resembling burnt sugar, hence the term "sugaring") and in so doing depletes the underlying alloy of this essential element. At this point, the damage is done and another pass on the back side will not even be possible. IF you are able to limit penetration such that the surface of the back side remains solid, you can often squeak by without shielding it from ambient air. This is the case, for example, with welding a sensor bung into an exhaust pipe. The strength is not an issue so you can just kiss the pipe wall with your bead and get by without shielding on the back side. If it were food service piping, you would need to purge all the air out of the pipe with argon and make a full penetration weld so the back side would be smooth, with no cracks to trap bacteria. If you're welding up a stainless exhaust system where resistance to fatigue cracks is important, a cheaper and simpler alternative to argon purging is Solar Flux (a military secret during WW-II) which is a powder you mix with methanol and paint onto the inside of the tubing. It creates a protective film like molten glass over the molten stainless and enables full penetration welds. It's a bi*ch to remove so it's not used where contaminants are a concern. One other property of SS that gives you fits in welding projects is thermal distortion because its coefficient of thermal expansion is very high but its thermal conductivity is fairly low.
thx for showing the backside