For clamping the outer tube i made a half clap from a lower triple clamp that i hold in the vice and the clamp holds the fork tube.. Man does it work smooth..
I did this this weekend. I bought heavier fork springs and all the tools and supplies 3 years ago but dreaded trying this. I ended up with a dripping fork last weekend at the track so it was time. It actually went very well I think. Thanks for the vid!
And don't ask me why im watching this.. Lol, guess the cold garage has me killing the day watching bike stuff iv seen a 100 times. This stuff never gets old!
The step at 7:00 i wish you explained a little better, like how much fluid should come out? I did it pushed the rod all the way in but i feel like I just pushed all the fluid out. Overall a fantastic series. Really helped me a lot
I decided to have a crack at replacing 2017 WR450F fork oil seal, guide bush, piston bush etc,.... after disassembly i found the 'Free Piston' on the Base Valve assembly had its lower O ring chipped, about 2 x 2mm missing, also found the thin plastic lip that holds the Base Valve lower wear bush in its place is broken almost all the way around, the pieces of plastic are very brittle, i wonder if oil heat is turning the plastic brittle. Apparently its common for the KYB 48mm AOS fork with plastic piston to suffer cracks or complete failure, im changing over to the alloy type
Good tips Very similar techniques that aircraft engineers use when overhauling undercarriage. We would run our thumb nail all over the fescalised portion and if you felt any ridges or bumps it would be either gently blended out or replaced. Also don't forget to measure that everything is in tolerance. Less of an issue on newer bikes but on older higher hour components definitely worth checking. Good video though - enjoyed it.
Thank you for a comprehensive and simple to follow video. I have a question on the rod when I fill with fluid and screw the cap I noticed fluid is leaking from the bottom and increases when i compress the rod, and losing the pressure what is the problem?
@@tbtracing1308 thank you again for your prompt reply. Sorry for being ignorant but when you say the cartridge seal is it the one on the rod? I have an RM 250 1994 R model can you please specify more details. I really appreciate your help.
nice video i've got a question about inner chamber free piston is in normal that free piston have about 6 mm of free movement along axle?? when whole element is ready for putting in the place i can't find any informations about it bike is 2012 crf 450 it is kyb suspension sorry for language i'm not the best in english
Great instructional video. I have one question. You set the outer bushing and oil seal together. I have always set the bushing first then the oil seal. How do we know the outer busing is fully set in place? Thanks
Hi great video new to the channel! I'm going to look at a YZ250 how do I know if they are the real SSS forks or they are the AOS forks. Is there a way that the insides could be changed with the outer sleeve of the SSS fork? it looks like to my knowledge the SSS forks have like a double ridge where they meet on the fork and the top of the forks would be different but I'm not sure what the AOS would look like. Thanks.
anyone have problems with the fork not rebounding - I follow the procedure, but things go side ways when I fully compress the inner assembly - it won't compress anymore and will actually keep the rod sucked in... I have tried multiple times and nothing seems to work.
Can anyone comment on what to do when the dampening rod adjuster nut is out of spec when it's seated at the end of the threads? The manual calls for .5 to 1mm of space between the adjuster nut and the rebound adjuster piece before tightening. I have about 2mm or more. So, do I shim the adjuster inside with a washer, or is it ok to have the adjuster nut a thread or so up from the end of the threads to bring it into spec? Any help is appreciated! Great video!
Your comment is 3 months old as of me writing this -- How did yours perform? Just finished rebuilding mine minutes ago, and the gap between the rebound adjuster and the lock nut was 1.95mm on one of mine and 2.24mm on the other (before tightening the lock nut up into the adjuster). Both were finger tight as far as they would go. Manual makes it out like it's important, but I just moved past it since I figure maybe the point they were trying to get across, generally speaking, was to make certain that the adjuster was all the way onto the rod and to then hold that position by tightening the lock nut into it.
hello I ask you a question I weigh 106kg with the motorcycle equipment, the motorcycle suspension of my motorcycle is too soft, I wanted to know how much should be the supplement that I can place, I could see what to that suspension of your video you put a supplement .
Anybody-- What is really the reason why we are emptying out oil in the inner cartridge after taking out bubbles? Or How will you know if it is extra???
I dont think Travis is emptying out the oil, he's using this procedure to get the correct amount. He starts by adding too much, then by his procedure sets the correct amount according to it's own volume.
the dealer did this overhauling to my dyatona's forks for no reason under warrenty. but soon after i noticed that on 1 side the there is oil "wetness" below the dust seal. i asked them about it the told me that maybe they overfilled the piston an this residue will go away with usage.. does this make sense
Zy H if they spilt oil while filling the fork upside down like on the 4cs fork oil can easily get behind the dust seal and will ooze out. clean with contact cleaner and it will go away from my experience.
Best rebuild video I have seen so far. Nice.
Thank you TBT Racing. This is the best video for 2009 YZ 450f front fork rebuild. SOOOO simple and easy to follow, I feel like a pro now!
For clamping the outer tube i made a half clap from a lower triple clamp that i hold in the vice and the clamp holds the fork tube.. Man does it work smooth..
I did this this weekend. I bought heavier fork springs and all the tools and supplies 3 years ago but dreaded trying this. I ended up with a dripping fork last weekend at the track so it was time. It actually went very well I think. Thanks for the vid!
And don't ask me why im watching this.. Lol, guess the cold garage has me killing the day watching bike stuff iv seen a 100 times. This stuff never gets old!
Thank you !! Getting the front of the bike put back together now and riding in the morning.
Good job with the video. I enjoyed the technical details. You can tell your experience is keen.
Very informative! Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
The step at 7:00 i wish you explained a little better, like how much fluid should come out? I did it pushed the rod all the way in but i feel like I just pushed all the fluid out. Overall a fantastic series. Really helped me a lot
What worries me is I did the “purge” at 9:00 and nothing came out
Wonderful video! Pleasure to see you working. Thanks for your explanations. I will use it for my YZ forks.
I decided to have a crack at replacing 2017 WR450F fork oil seal, guide bush, piston bush etc,.... after disassembly i found the 'Free Piston' on the Base Valve assembly had its lower O ring chipped, about 2 x 2mm missing, also found the thin plastic lip that holds the Base Valve lower wear bush in its place is broken almost all the way around, the pieces of plastic are very brittle, i wonder if oil heat is turning the plastic brittle. Apparently its common for the KYB 48mm AOS fork with plastic piston to suffer cracks or complete failure, im changing over to the alloy type
Great video, thank you
Great video! Easy to follow and understand..
Good tips
Very similar techniques that aircraft engineers use when overhauling undercarriage.
We would run our thumb nail all over the fescalised portion and if you felt any ridges or bumps it would be either gently blended out or replaced.
Also don't forget to measure that everything is in tolerance. Less of an issue on newer bikes but on older higher hour components definitely worth checking.
Good video though - enjoyed it.
Very nice glad I found this last time I did this forks were a bit different. Going to check out your fork rebuild kit now!
Thank you for a comprehensive and simple to follow video. I have a question on the rod when I fill with fluid and screw the cap I noticed fluid is leaking from the bottom and increases when i compress the rod, and losing the pressure what is the problem?
The cartridge seal Tech touch has available Need a big Allan and tube clamp
@@tbtracing1308 thank you again for your prompt reply. Sorry for being ignorant but when you say the cartridge seal is it the one on the rod? I have an RM 250 1994 R model can you please specify more details. I really appreciate your help.
man that was a really good video
Great video. Thanks.
Hi, i have the same forks but they are locked. what it depend on? I changed the oil but after mounting them they are still locked. Thank you
Great video. Thank you. This was very helpful.
nice video i've got a question about inner chamber free piston
is in normal that free piston have about 6 mm of free movement along axle?? when whole element is ready for putting in the place
i can't find any informations about it
bike is 2012 crf 450 it is kyb suspension
sorry for language i'm not the best in english
Great instructional video. I have one question. You set the outer bushing and oil seal together. I have always set the bushing first then the oil seal. How do we know the outer busing is fully set in place? Thanks
It's set in place when the oil seal goes in all the way.
great video!
Nice video, thanks for all the tips.
great informative vid but you forgot to protect the seal with the bullet... no biggy
Jared Conville I'm sure he doesn't need it, He probably rebuilds 100s of forks a year and knows how to put them on without damaging the seal.
Lol i noticed thet also
Do a video on an innercartridge seal, and rebound piston ring, on kyb, sss forks. Please lol
Hi great video new to the channel! I'm going to look at a YZ250 how do I know if they are the real SSS forks or they are the AOS forks. Is there a way that the insides could be changed with the outer sleeve of the SSS fork? it looks like to my knowledge the SSS forks have like a double ridge where they meet on the fork and the top of the forks would be different but I'm not sure what the AOS would look like. Thanks.
anyone have problems with the fork not rebounding - I follow the procedure, but things go side ways when I fully compress the inner assembly - it won't compress anymore and will actually keep the rod sucked in... I have tried multiple times and nothing seems to work.
Is there any way to remove the lower fork leg ?
Can anyone comment on what to do when the dampening rod adjuster nut is out of spec when it's seated at the end of the threads? The manual calls for .5 to 1mm of space between the adjuster nut and the rebound adjuster piece before tightening. I have about 2mm or more. So, do I shim the adjuster inside with a washer, or is it ok to have the adjuster nut a thread or so up from the end of the threads to bring it into spec? Any help is appreciated! Great video!
Your comment is 3 months old as of me writing this -- How did yours perform? Just finished rebuilding mine minutes ago, and the gap between the rebound adjuster and the lock nut was 1.95mm on one of mine and 2.24mm on the other (before tightening the lock nut up into the adjuster). Both were finger tight as far as they would go. Manual makes it out like it's important, but I just moved past it since I figure maybe the point they were trying to get across, generally speaking, was to make certain that the adjuster was all the way onto the rod and to then hold that position by tightening the lock nut into it.
Great Video thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help :)
how do you know which side is the right one in the fork seal
Great Video !!
is it possible to take the lugs out?
hello I ask you a question I weigh 106kg with the motorcycle equipment, the motorcycle suspension of my motorcycle is too soft, I wanted to know how much should be the supplement that I can place, I could see what to that suspension of your video you put a supplement .
Check out RACE TECH website they have s calculator that will help you
Were are the shim stacks?
Anybody--
What is really the reason why we are emptying out oil in the inner cartridge after taking out bubbles?
Or
How will you know if it is extra???
I dont think Travis is emptying out the oil, he's using this procedure to get the correct amount. He starts by adding too much, then by his procedure sets the correct amount according to it's own volume.
@@michaelpinkston4628 thank you! so whatever it takes thats the amount it should be.
the dealer did this overhauling to my dyatona's forks for no reason under warrenty. but soon after i noticed that on 1 side the there is oil "wetness" below the dust seal. i asked them about it the told me that maybe they overfilled the piston an this residue will go away with usage.. does this make sense
Zy H if they spilt oil while filling the fork upside down like on the 4cs fork oil can easily get behind the dust seal and will ooze out. clean with contact cleaner and it will go away from my experience.
Most informative. Thank You
Has any one had problems compressing their forks and inserting that H-tool to hold the bottom of the cartridge shaft out the end of the casing?
Try putting the axle back in
@@michaelpinkston4628 Thxs ...
I broke the mount to the disk brake
Show de video!!!
Fork seal circlip lost !!!!!!!!!!