I can truly respect going the extra step to prepare the fasteners. It can make or break a restoration as paint in most cases, doesn’t last long enough to install it the torque in place. Just think, if you wash it, drive it and it rains or heaven forbid you drive to a show and shine and the weather man is wrong, it does rain, painted bolts will last weeks we’re as a chemical coating is what the requested from the supplier by the manufacturers specs. Who is right, rattle can from the dollar store, or an actual magnesium or phosphate coating, threads and heads! I would go with “Door #2” every time. After all, that I pride in your work. Great job and excellent choice of how to finish your products the best way! Congrats! NIASE Master Tech since 1978, Retired.
Thanks Wes. Yes the other vid is a real in depth video. Not alot of folks are going to watch it due to its length. That reminds me, I need to link this video to that one.
Love this video! Very helpful as I was just about to spray paint the heads of the bolts on my project 72 Firebird Formula suspension parts. Now I have a much better looking, durable option thanks to you. Also thanks for the link
Glad it helped! I love this process. It has made such a difference in my resto work. You can buy kits from places like AMK Products, but I still find that there are several fasteners used from the factory that are not exact in these kits.
Hey Russell your videos are awesome. I enjoy them very much especially this one on restoring hardware. However, I did notice that when you were heating up the solution your propane stove there was very close to the wall Insulation at your workbench and I'm sure it was just an oversight like we all have done from time to time but I would hate to see that bottle tip over by accident and catch that paper on fire. I just wanted to help you avoid a major disaster there. Maybe there is something I'm not seeing but I just want you to able continue making these videos because you do a great job. Thanks
I ran across this video after I finished a batch of nuts n bolts. The instruction states "heat tank to 180 F." Right before the sentence that states "Condition by immersing a pad of steel wool.." I took this to mean the steel wool goes in the hot solution. I noticed you put your steel wool in a cold solution. My bolts look fine, your bolts also look fine. I am puzzled whether conditioning involves a hot solution or cold? Any thoughts?
I'm not sure to be honest. I do remember contacting the manufacturer about the steel wool, but its been awhile and I don't remember the conversion details. I also use Palmetto's solution which is selling again. They are very similar, but nothing in their instructions on the steel wool. So far I have been very happy with the results though.
I don't have a sand blaster but I do have an awesome wire wheel on a bench motor that takes it down to bare metal, only difference is my bolts are shinny and more smooth. do you think this process will do or does the metal have to be blasted for the parkerizing to stick.
I think it should still work. I know some guys used to run a wire wheel over the bolts after the blasting. It would be worth a try. If I get a chance this week, I'll give it a try and let you know.
Hi, we've been back in business for a while. Our website is www.palmettoenterprisesparkerizing.com. We'd love to serve your parkerizing needs once again. No steel wool needed!
I would think so, its just a chemical process to change the color of the metal. Obviously if you mar the metal with a tool, the coating will also be compromised. Saying that though, I have installed several using tools and they still look new. Thanks.
great video and product it looks fairly easy going to have to try it I just bought a bridgestone 100 to restore would like to find something to do white cad plating that would be really helpful
That would be cool Chris. I have never tried any cad stuff. If you do try this process let me know how it goes. Feel free to ask me any questions you may have. I'll help you get started.
I think it does really well. I have let parts sit outside for as long as 6 months before. The trick is to let a good coat of oil dry on them and your set.
Russ, great review on a great product.. I do however have one question which is are you going to have to degrease/deoil the bolt heads from the last wd mix that you put on there?
Darrin, I usually just dry them with a paper towel. If there is some left over wd on there before coating with the Boeshield it wont hurt. I know some folks only used the wd. The Boeshield is just another type of oil that I have found holds up to the elements really well.
No smell that I could tell. I usually wear a mask, but for the purpose of the vid I didn't. I would think a fan blowing away from you would also be a good idea. This mix is 4:1, so you figure its 80% water. Always good to think about safety. Thanks for watching.
No it doesn't work on stainless. I use a stainless pot to heat the solution before I drop in the bolts. The chemical doesn't stick to the stainless pot. Great question and thanks for watching.
I can truly respect going the extra step to prepare the fasteners. It can make or break a restoration as paint in most cases, doesn’t last long enough to install it the torque in place. Just think, if you wash it, drive it and it rains or heaven forbid you drive to a show and shine and the weather man is wrong, it does rain, painted bolts will last weeks we’re as a chemical coating is what the requested from the supplier by the manufacturers specs. Who is right, rattle can from the dollar store, or an actual magnesium or phosphate coating, threads and heads! I would go with “Door #2” every time. After all, that I pride in your work.
Great job and excellent choice of how to finish your products the best way! Congrats!
NIASE Master Tech since 1978, Retired.
Thank you Dean!
*high five* on a really clear and concise presentation. Thanks for the info!
Thank you and thanks for watching
"It's all in the details" as they say and those fasteners will really add to the project. Nice explanation of the process.
wyattoneable Thanks Wyatt.
Bolts look awesome Russ. Nice video to go along with your old vid that shows the blasting process as well. Good info.
Thanks Wes. Yes the other vid is a real in depth video. Not alot of folks are going to watch it due to its length. That reminds me, I need to link this video to that one.
good idea Russ
thats a cool process. i just dont like messing with chemicals lol. they turned out great
Thanks Rod. Yep. I hear ya. Got to be careful.
Love this video! Very helpful as I was just about to spray paint the heads of the bolts on my project 72 Firebird Formula suspension parts. Now I have a much better looking, durable option thanks to you. Also thanks for the link
Glad it helped! I love this process. It has made such a difference in my resto work. You can buy kits from places like AMK Products, but I still find that there are several fasteners used from the factory that are not exact in these kits.
Very nice and easy. I've always just zinc plated bolts but may have to give this a try.
Thanks. Yes, really easy. If you do give it a try, let me know what you think. I think you will like it.
Fantastic! Thank you for sharing this. I'm restoring a car and this is going to be so much better than painting the hardware.
You will love it. It works great and is alot better than paint imo.
Merry Christmas to you and your family. Kerp up the good work
Thanks Anthony, Merry Christmas
Hey Russell your videos are awesome. I enjoy them very much especially this one on restoring hardware. However, I did notice that when you were heating up the solution your propane stove there was very close to the wall Insulation at your workbench and I'm sure it was just an oversight like we all have done from time to time but I would hate to see that bottle tip over by accident and catch that paper on fire. I just wanted to help you avoid a major disaster there. Maybe there is something I'm not seeing but I just want you to able continue making these videos because you do a great job. Thanks
Hey Anthony, yes I need to finish the wall covering to cover the insulation for sure. Thanks for the kind words about the vids.
Nice, I was just thinking about this the other day. Thanks for the video, bolts look like new.
Thanks man. Its a cool process. I have used it on all kinds of hardware even some not auto related.
I ran across this video after I finished a batch of nuts n bolts. The instruction states "heat tank to 180 F." Right before the sentence that states "Condition by immersing a pad of steel wool.." I took this to mean the steel wool goes in the hot solution. I noticed you put your steel wool in a cold solution. My bolts look fine, your bolts also look fine. I am puzzled whether conditioning involves a hot solution or cold? Any thoughts?
I'm not sure to be honest. I do remember contacting the manufacturer about the steel wool, but its been awhile and I don't remember the conversion details. I also use Palmetto's solution which is selling again. They are very similar, but nothing in their instructions on the steel wool. So far I have been very happy with the results though.
I've never thought about doing that. Looks great!
Thanks. You would like it Jay. Doesn't take alot to get started, other than the blaster / compressor.
I don't have a sand blaster but I do have an awesome wire wheel on a bench motor that takes it down to bare metal, only difference is my bolts are shinny and more smooth. do you think this process will do or does the metal have to be blasted for the parkerizing to stick.
I think it should still work. I know some guys used to run a wire wheel over the bolts after the blasting. It would be worth a try. If I get a chance this week, I'll give it a try and let you know.
This is a great video, Russ. I can see we will be using this process. Thanks for the links too.
indyme2 Thanks Indy!
Fasteners look awesome. Great vid. Thanks Russ.
Thanks rindress!
So therapeutic! I do have to do some bolts myself. I hope they turn out even half as nice as yours :)
Thank you. I'm sure you will do fine Niamh. This process seems to hold up well.
Good video.
Thank you
Hi, we've been back in business for a while. Our website is www.palmettoenterprisesparkerizing.com. We'd love to serve your parkerizing needs once again. No steel wool needed!
Glad to hear. Always loved your product. I'll defiantly be ordering some more.
Hi Russ. Good video. Looks like a great product.
Thanks Wiley. I really like it.
Great video and review Russ!
Thanks Jon.
That is a very good video as usual Russ. that stuff could be used on a lot of things. Thanks for the video.
It sure can. Thanks Roger.
Is this stonger than a black oxide finish?
I would think so, its just a chemical process to change the color of the metal. Obviously if you mar the metal with a tool, the coating will also be compromised. Saying that though, I have installed several using tools and they still look new. Thanks.
I think it did a nice job. Thanks for sharing the information with us.
Thanks Stan.
Awesome review Russ.
Thanks Gonzo
great video and product it looks fairly easy going to have to try it I just bought a bridgestone 100 to restore would like to find something to do white cad plating that would be really helpful
That would be cool Chris. I have never tried any cad stuff. If you do try this process let me know how it goes. Feel free to ask me any questions you may have. I'll help you get started.
How does this stand up to zinc plating?
I think it does really well. I have let parts sit outside for as long as 6 months before. The trick is to let a good coat of oil dry on them and your set.
Good looking stuff Russ
Thanks Jeff.
Great video! How many times can you reuse the solution?
Thank you. Several, you will lose a little each time, but it still last awhile. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the update, I am coming up on having to do some of this.
If you have a blast cabinet / compressor, it doesn't take a lot to get started.
Russ, great review on a great product.. I do however have one question which is are you going to have to degrease/deoil the bolt heads from the last wd mix that you put on there?
Darrin, I usually just dry them with a paper towel. If there is some left over wd on there before coating with the Boeshield it wont hurt. I know some folks only used the wd. The Boeshield is just another type of oil that I have found holds up to the elements really well.
Its called MAN GAN NESE
Everything looks great and I like not having to use electricity in the process.. But seeing the steam coming off made me wonder if it smells bad?
No smell that I could tell. I usually wear a mask, but for the purpose of the vid I didn't. I would think a fan blowing away from you would also be a good idea. This mix is 4:1, so you figure its 80% water. Always good to think about safety. Thanks for watching.
I’m definitely going to be picking some of this up for use on my hardware, great video thanks!
Looks like great stuff
Thanks Huck. I really like it.
Thanks for sharing this info Russ
Thanks John. I actually first learned about this a long time ago on the nasty Z site.
wow! awesome stuff!!!
juiced71 Thanks
Does this stuff work on stainless steel?
No it doesn't work on stainless. I use a stainless pot to heat the solution before I drop in the bolts. The chemical doesn't stick to the stainless pot. Great question and thanks for watching.
cool stuff
Thanks Matt