I successfully printed the Stearman and I am now printing the Cessna, I can give you following tips, which seemed to be working quite well with my Ender3pro: -modifying the printer to direct extrusion (in my case just one printed part required) -layer hight 0.25mm makes it faster -printing all high and tall parts with a 4mm brim instead of skirt as bed adhesion -extrusion to 105% -printing the fuselage with a double wall-printing the wing tips with 1mm top layer, the motormount with 2mm top layer -bed temperature for 1st layer 70*C then 50*C -nozzle temperature 215*C -travel speed 150 was the maximum with these settings. Last point was to modify the retraction and prime just a tiny bit. (As I modified from bowden to direct extrusion, there was not much required to minimize stringing. All sliced in cura. Even with a doubled outer wall for the fuselage, it was still within the weight limits.
@@deanmyeres4089 my only modification is the direct drive with a printed bracket from Thingiverse . I love the magnetic bed, it makes it so much easier to release the thin and fragile parts. But the most important thing I learned: use PETG instead of PLA, a good PETG makes a extremely durable plane, which even survives harder landings.
I changed my Ender to direct drive (with a Capricorn tube) also and love it. I also added a hardened nozzle. Now I can print with PLA, TPU, and PETG Carbon Fiber. I’m now trying to print the Cessna 152. Thanks for the setting tips.
I don't know if you tried out already but the most impact, or improvement of the surfaces quality has been to set the cura function "outer before inner wall". Suddenly all the inner parts of the plane does not show up anymore on the outer surface.
I got it working on a an anycubic mega s by reducing the layer hight to 0.2, reducing the speed drastically to 35mm/s, retraction 4/4,5, prime -0.1. really decent prints, good bed adhesion no warping. It took me a about a week to tweak. I used the original settings for Cura by 3dlabprints. Then only change one thing at a time so you know what's happening. And start with small parts as wing tips so you don't waste to much. And observing the printer what's going on is also helpful. Done with form futura pla. Very happy with the quality. Greetz
some of your problems can be solved easily. like using a brim, and also you can use CAD software to splice out parts of the prints, so you can print individual pieces instead of sets of pieces
The million dollar question for me is what did you change in the g code to to make the inner supports not stick through the skin of the wing parts. That’s what’s hanging me up. Everything else is good. Really appreciate your videos. Starting to think twice about 3dlabprint stuff.
Yeah been there done that. I had an xyz pronter but have now moved over to the Prusa Mk 3. I had terrible problems with bed adhesion until i bought a new PEI sheet. There is a lot to learn even if you start with a Prusa machine and Simplify 3d. After 3 years I have learnt a lot...do not get a bowden printer for this sort of work!
Well guess what, i bought the recommended Prusa mk3 , colorfabb LW-PLA and the files to print there glider called bungee prop. The only part that printed without a hassle using there G-codes was fuselage part 1, the rest i had to tweak the temp to get the prints right. The wing tips in particular were a nightmare, i wasted almost all my filament just to print them. The eclipson model V on the other hand which does not even recommend the Prusa printer and all the parts came out without any defect or hassle.
I’m very eager to start 3D printing and at the same time After watching this I’m starting to give up. There are so many settings to take care off that I didn’t understand what exactly you were saying. But please don’t take it as an offensive comment, I really admire your work. Do you still recommend the sidewinder SW-X1 for 3D printing or there’s another type of printer? The Prusa is very expensive and I’m not very confident that it’s the type that just download the program and start printing great quality pieces straight away.
im printing a cessna 150 {quite a bit smaller than this} being newish to 3d printing for me its just trial and error no youtube videos help as there specific to other peoples issues but im getting there
Hi Can you tell me please what I am doing wrong? I got files from thingerverse of a wing part and put it to cura and scaled it as it was a bit too big and put preview and it was not printing the outside skin only the inside when I reset scale it was printing everything.
Is there any problem using the Gcodes that they provide with another printer?. I have done that with other project (and seller) that also provides Gcodes with my cr10 V3 direct drive and the only thing that I changed was the retraction settings. If the volume is greater or equal to the prusa they used to generate the Gcodes there should not be problem, or am i wrong?
I suppose by now you have learnt to properly level your bed instead of dupergluing parts. That first layer was so figh up from the bed it was painful to watch, no wonder it didn't stick.
Yes I have learned a lot more about printing this was my first printing project. The bed was not set up right don't need to glue parts to the bed anymore.
How can i buy the stl file for 3 printing..i can not make a payment.. Would please make in application for online shop, e.g. alixpress or amazon or something like that..thank you..
Sounds like it would be better to build a balsa kit instead of 3D printing it. 3D printing is cool though. It just sounds like more work and more money, especially when you have to reprint failed parts. Is it ok to ask how much it cost to build a 3D printed plane?
@@ripmax333 That pretty good price considering 40 Euros is worth $59.64 Canadian. we pay $150.00 dollars for a cheep Styrofoam plane. and the cheapest balsa kit rubber band power any where between $25 and $50 CAD. or 16.77 to 33.53 Euros.
@@Shadow-Hawk that the beauty of 3D printing and why I’m tempted to try it. Plus if something breaks you can easily print parts again. You can even do your own rubber Wheels with the 3D printing! The one big problem is that some materials are a bit too brittle but I’m sure something will improve in the future.
who did you say has different techniques that they want you to use to cut the 3D pieces out????? 3D lab print? I couldn’t understand quit what you said (1:43)
Why couldn't they just save you the headache and just send you a kit in the mail of already printed out pieces and all you have to do is just assemble the damn thing?
I just finished the F-86 on ender 3V2 with zero issues. Made my own programs with cura and printing at 80mm with layer height of .12. Check my videos uploaded and can share settings
This was so painful to watch. You should really have just found someone who really knows 3D printing to help you get started. It would have been so much better in the long run. Like those ailerons really should have just been sliced with a brim so they adhered to the build plate without any fooling around. Ouch.
Out of 14,000+ views, I know (as a 3d printer owner / Robo3D original) you helped THOUSANDS of people. Thanks!
Thank you
I successfully printed the Stearman and I am now printing the Cessna, I can give you following tips, which seemed to be working quite well with my Ender3pro: -modifying the printer to direct extrusion (in my case just one printed part required) -layer hight 0.25mm makes it faster -printing all high and tall parts with a 4mm brim instead of skirt as bed adhesion -extrusion to 105% -printing the fuselage with a double wall-printing the wing tips with 1mm top layer, the motormount with 2mm top layer -bed temperature for 1st layer 70*C then 50*C -nozzle temperature 215*C -travel speed 150 was the maximum with these settings. Last point was to modify the retraction and prime just a tiny bit. (As I modified from bowden to direct extrusion, there was not much required to minimize stringing. All sliced in cura. Even with a doubled outer wall for the fuselage, it was still within the weight limits.
I thinking of a ender 3 with ditect drive how do you like youre for planes
@@deanmyeres4089 my only modification is the direct drive with a printed bracket from Thingiverse . I love the magnetic bed, it makes it so much easier to release the thin and fragile parts. But the most important thing I learned: use PETG instead of PLA, a good PETG makes a extremely durable plane, which even survives harder landings.
Hows the weight if petg
@@deanmyeres4089 if your printer and profile are dialed in well, the weight is the same. The higher specific weight is not noticeable
I changed my Ender to direct drive (with a Capricorn tube) also and love it. I also added a hardened nozzle. Now I can print with PLA, TPU, and PETG Carbon Fiber. I’m now trying to print the Cessna 152. Thanks for the setting tips.
I don't know if you tried out already but the most impact, or improvement of the surfaces quality has been to set the cura function "outer before inner wall". Suddenly all the inner parts of the plane does not show up anymore on the outer surface.
usually everything is single wall..
I got it working on a an anycubic mega s by reducing the layer hight to 0.2, reducing the speed drastically to 35mm/s, retraction 4/4,5, prime -0.1. really decent prints, good bed adhesion no warping. It took me a about a week to tweak. I used the original settings for Cura by 3dlabprints. Then only change one thing at a time so you know what's happening. And start with small parts as wing tips so you don't waste to much. And observing the printer what's going on is also helpful. Done with form futura pla. Very happy with the quality. Greetz
Get a glass print bed and spray it with a thick layer of hair spray before starting your print. Works like a charm
some of your problems can be solved easily. like using a brim, and also you can use CAD software to splice out parts of the prints, so you can print individual pieces instead of sets of pieces
Even some slicers will let you save out individual pieces from a set in G-Code. I think Slic3r will do that.
The million dollar question for me is what did you change in the g code to to make the inner supports not stick through the skin of the wing parts. That’s what’s hanging me up. Everything else is good. Really appreciate your videos. Starting to think twice about 3dlabprint stuff.
Yeah been there done that. I had an xyz pronter but have now moved over to the Prusa Mk 3. I had terrible problems with bed adhesion until i bought a new PEI sheet. There is a lot to learn even if you start with a Prusa machine and Simplify 3d. After 3 years I have learnt a lot...do not get a bowden printer for this sort of work!
Hey there Troy. Great video series. Compliments from Turkey.
Thanks for sharing!
Well guess what, i bought the recommended Prusa mk3 , colorfabb LW-PLA and the files to print there glider called bungee prop. The only part that printed without a hassle using there G-codes was fuselage part 1, the rest i had to tweak the temp to get the prints right. The wing tips in particular were a nightmare, i wasted almost all my filament just to print them. The eclipson model V on the other hand which does not even recommend the Prusa printer and all the parts came out without any defect or hassle.
Imagine getting your private license in the future, and the instructor just giving you a website on where to print a new airplane.
I’m very eager to start 3D printing and at the same time After watching this I’m starting to give up. There are so many settings to take care off that I didn’t understand what exactly you were saying. But please don’t take it as an offensive comment, I really admire your work. Do you still recommend the sidewinder SW-X1 for 3D printing or there’s another type of printer? The Prusa is very expensive and I’m not very confident that it’s the type that just download the program and start printing great quality pieces straight away.
Looking at buying a printer I think I will buy the Prusa. From what I read most of these on Amazon are copies of the Pursa but not as good.
I have heard that Prusas are really good, haven't tried them yet! Let me know what you end up getting.
im printing a cessna 150 {quite a bit smaller than this} being newish to 3d printing for me its just trial and error no youtube videos help as there specific to other peoples issues but im getting there
What size is your printing bed? I have a creality ender 3 v3 se and I want to make an RC plane
you print juste one wall thinkness or 2 wall? What kind material you use for firewall petg or pla + but whit much wall ?
Hi
Can you tell me please what I am doing wrong?
I got files from thingerverse of a wing part and put it to cura and scaled it as it was a bit too big and put preview and it was not printing the outside skin only the inside when I reset scale it was printing everything.
Any chance you have stl file for Airbus 350?
I own couple PRUSA MK3S and wish to print a giant Airbus A350 for display
Nice
Hello How many hours are all the parts produced?
Is there any problem using the Gcodes that they provide with another printer?. I have done that with other project (and seller) that also provides Gcodes with my cr10 V3 direct drive and the only thing that I changed was the retraction settings. If the volume is greater or equal to the prusa they used to generate the Gcodes there should not be problem, or am i wrong?
Ok you explained later in the video sorry ^^'' Nice video tutorial thanks!
You are correct that is how I understand it also.
I suppose by now you have learnt to properly level your bed instead of dupergluing parts. That first layer was so figh up from the bed it was painful to watch, no wonder it didn't stick.
Yes I have learned a lot more about printing this was my first printing project. The bed was not set up right don't need to glue parts to the bed anymore.
How can i buy the stl file for 3 printing..i can not make a payment..
Would please make in application for online shop, e.g. alixpress or amazon or something like that..thank you..
You Can use Prusa Slicer it is better
Mac or PC.
Pls tell me How do you make the connection points/ slots
Sounds like it would be better to build a balsa kit instead of 3D printing it.
3D printing is cool though. It just sounds like more work and more money, especially when you have to reprint failed parts.
Is it ok to ask how much it cost to build a 3D printed plane?
If one plane takes about 1kg of PLA roll, every roll is between 30-40 euros.
@@ripmax333 That pretty good price considering 40 Euros is worth $59.64 Canadian. we pay $150.00 dollars for a cheep Styrofoam plane. and the cheapest balsa kit rubber band power any where between $25 and $50 CAD. or 16.77 to 33.53 Euros.
@@Shadow-Hawk that the beauty of 3D printing and why I’m tempted to try it. Plus if something breaks you can easily print parts again. You can even do your own rubber Wheels with the 3D printing! The one big problem is that some materials are a bit too brittle but I’m sure something will improve in the future.
@@ripmax333 30-40€ for 1kg of PLA?? You can get a 1kg spool for 13€ (prints just as good as the 20€ and up PLA and is just as strong)!
@@TheBod76 With that price I was referring to LW-PLA, normal PLA is too heavy, might as well stay with Balsa.
who did you say has different techniques that they want you to use to cut the 3D pieces out????? 3D lab print? I couldn’t understand quit what you said (1:43)
yes, 3d lab print!
PS wath i do is: Make a Plane Body, but the wing i make in wood end cover wit foli like old RC building.
Why couldn't they just save you the headache and just send you a kit in the mail of already printed out pieces and all you have to do is just assemble the damn thing?
I just finished the F-86 on ender 3V2 with zero issues. Made my own programs with cura and printing at 80mm with layer height of .12. Check my videos uploaded and can share settings
This was so painful to watch. You should really have just found someone who really knows 3D printing to help you get started. It would have been so much better in the long run. Like those ailerons really should have just been sliced with a brim so they adhered to the build plate without any fooling around. Ouch.
Way to much of a headache. Would rather make it out of foam board, or just buy a rtf plane.