Francis, I also would like to thank you so much for passing on all this wisdom. For those of us in North America, & especially those of us that have Irish blood, & may never have the chance to visit it is great to learn this part of our martial history. It also is very helpful for those of us wanting to purchase or collect shillelaghs, & are curious about the techniques for producing a bata both traditional, & modern.
At one time Irish people were not permitted to carry a sword, so they used the stick instead. They also kept them up the chimney all the time when not in everyday use, and were constantly kept very hard. A formidable weapon.
Fascinating stuff Francis! You’ve made my head spin! 😂 I’ll watch as much as I can before I decide on my order! Thankyou for your honesty & integrity 👍
A good video. The type of finish is one of those things for which there is no perfect answer. As a guitar maker, I find finishing to be more taxing than the actual construction. After twenty years, I have two finishes that I really go to now. If I’m making something that I want to have a classical high gloss, I use Mohawk Musical Instrument lacquer. Far and above all other lacquers I have tried, it behaves and ages in a beautiful manner that only lacquer can - I don’t want a twenty year-old finish looking brand new. I prefer the thinning of the finish and the classic checking. I’d recommend this for sticks that do not get used for violence. For an instrument that is more of a working musician’s tool, I like Formby’s Tung-oil which isn’t actually tung oil but rather a wipe-on varnish in which you wipe on/buff many coats. You apply it and then buff it out with steel wool 24 hours later. I like this because it is easily repairable. You can actually achieve a very high gloss if you’re willing to build up enough coats.
Hello Francis, I would have thought the key question a customer would have is, how do I maintain my stick (what products would be most suitable) once I’ve bought it from you and it ages over time? I know that’s the main question I have.
I've thought about what I would ask for in the way of an ideal custom made stick: 39-40" long, 2" knob, 1-1/4" diameter for the first 10" below the handle, then tapering to a little less than 1" at the tip. Weight about 18-20 oz. Leave substantial thorn stubs below that first 10 inches. No finish other than your usual satin clear coat. You have a YT video about a beautiful stick you found in an old cottage, that had a rough natural finish, no black stain. Old school style is appealing to me. One of these days I'll order one like this.
@@FrancisMcCaffrey5 Could have been longer! I enjoyed it and saw the same reflections I experience with the different woods I use. Maintaining the character of the bark and the wood is key. Stay safe!
I'm a Bench-hand joiner by trade (been out of it for a while) kind of embarrassing how many obvious things i didnt even consider when finishing my stick! I've been getting round to re-finishing mine for a while now.....will have a good think about and (hopefully) do a nicer finish on mine (and some repairs) in spring! Really enlightening video, thanks!
It’s all trail and error some times it goes wrong and you start over. Always try to check the manufacturing date on a finish if they have it as they do go off. Once you have time and go slowly I usually get into trouble when I try to rush things
@@FrancisMcCaffrey5 it was mainly rushing and being cheap mainly i think, i bought a small tin of (not so) clear ronseal outdoor varnish and did 2 coats because i was in a rush to get it done and have the final product (you never do realise the importance of patience until you get older haha) for the amount of time i rushed through it does looks good but whereas I'd put one of yours on display, mine would definitely be for a walk up in the mountains getting dirty and bashed about and not worrying about spoiling it. I have 3 sticks seasoned waiting to be worked on so will definitely be doing my homework over winter with straightening, varnishing, experimenting etc
i always like to use one of many oils and then varnish after its drank as much oil as i think is necessary. i tried poly in the beginning and i dont like it personally at all. Francis said in another video that one shouldnt skimp on varnish and he was certainly correct.
Francis I don't have blackthorn yet, I know it takes time to grow. I have a couple quality oak wood sticks an when I have time I will get alot more oak wood sticks because oak is plentiful in the us. Anyways, to my point can I use wood stains on oak I hear the stains really enhance the grain of the wood which I want to do so I'll remove bark can I use stain on oak wood an blackthorn? I will take bark off blackthorn once it's developed an seasoned because I want to show an emphasize on the wood grain of blackthorn as well
I just received my first shillelagh & it was from Denis & Liam. I only just learned of yours, & everyone I have seen is beautiful. I will be adding one of yours to my new collection. One question is I am training in bataireacht, and will use my bata for walking, and self defense if needed so do you offer some that are sturdy , and that would work well with either hand, and do you offer a lead loaded knob?
I have a lot of issues against lead loading, the size and weight is to do with your ability, not too heavy is advice just ask the group you are training with about what they use
Francis also wanted to know an I'm sure you know because you come from a long line of quality shillelaghs makers. Does the stick from years ago have bark on the sticks or did they remove bark. I read somewhere that in the old days they removed the bark, you who come from a line of quality shillelaghs makers is that true that the sticks of the 1800's an early 1900's did they remove bark from shillelaghs. Reason I want to remove bark on some sticks so I can enhance wood grain. Some will have bark, some will not have bark
Sorry I ask so many questions Francis it's just your a quality shillelagh maker an obviously your ancestors passed information down through the family over the centuries
Francis, I also would like to thank you so much for passing on all this wisdom. For those of us in North America, & especially those of us that have Irish blood, & may never have the chance to visit it is great to learn this part of our martial history. It also is very helpful for those of us wanting to purchase or collect shillelaghs, & are curious about the techniques for producing a bata both traditional, & modern.
Thanks for the kind words
You should get one of Francis’s sticks. He’ll get you exactly what you want, and they’re all beautiful real shillelaghs.
I've read somewhere 100 plus years ago they were up in the chimney, for 2 years blackthorn, love this idea, thankful for sharing
Yes some did this they had big wide fire places And chimney.
@@FrancisMcCaffrey5 a true craft respect lynn Yorkshire, England
At one time Irish people were not permitted to carry a sword, so they used the stick instead. They also kept them up the chimney all the time when not in everyday use, and were constantly kept very hard. A formidable weapon.
Cheers
Fascinating stuff Francis! You’ve made my head spin! 😂 I’ll watch as much as I can before I decide on my order! Thankyou for your honesty & integrity 👍
A good video. The type of finish is one of those things for which there is no perfect answer. As a guitar maker, I find finishing to be more taxing than the actual construction. After twenty years, I have two finishes that I really go to now. If I’m making something that I want to have a classical high gloss, I use Mohawk Musical Instrument lacquer. Far and above all other lacquers I have tried, it behaves and ages in a beautiful manner that only lacquer can - I don’t want a twenty year-old finish looking brand new. I prefer the thinning of the finish and the classic checking. I’d recommend this for sticks that do not get used for violence. For an instrument that is more of a working musician’s tool, I like Formby’s Tung-oil which isn’t actually tung oil but rather a wipe-on varnish in which you wipe on/buff many coats. You apply it and then buff it out with steel wool 24 hours later. I like this because it is easily repairable. You can actually achieve a very high gloss if you’re willing to build up enough coats.
Thanks for sharing wow so much to know interesting Francis and the amount of work goes into making a genuine shillelagh 👍
Thanks Tony
Hello Francis, I would have thought the key question a customer would have is, how do I maintain my stick (what products would be most suitable) once I’ve bought it from you and it ages over time? I know that’s the main question I have.
Thanks for that great info Francis . Dennehy over and out
I've thought about what I would ask for in the way of an ideal custom made stick: 39-40" long, 2" knob, 1-1/4" diameter for the first 10" below the handle, then tapering to a little less than 1" at the tip. Weight about 18-20 oz. Leave substantial thorn stubs below that first 10 inches. No finish other than your usual satin clear coat. You have a YT video about a beautiful stick you found in an old cottage, that had a rough natural finish, no black stain. Old school style is appealing to me. One of these days I'll order one like this.
Great info again .
THANKS for sharing !!!!
It is a tough topic to explain to any without experience. Nicely done.
Yes near 10 minute answer to question on finishing. There are so many variables and factors to take into consideration
@@FrancisMcCaffrey5 Could have been longer! I enjoyed it and saw the same reflections I experience with the different woods I use. Maintaining the character of the bark and the wood is key. Stay safe!
I'm a Bench-hand joiner by trade (been out of it for a while) kind of embarrassing how many obvious things i didnt even consider when finishing my stick! I've been getting round to re-finishing mine for a while now.....will have a good think about and (hopefully) do a nicer finish on mine (and some repairs) in spring! Really enlightening video, thanks!
It’s all trail and error some times it goes wrong and you start over. Always try to check the manufacturing date on a finish if they have it as they do go off. Once you have time and go slowly I usually get into trouble when I try to rush things
@@FrancisMcCaffrey5 it was mainly rushing and being cheap mainly i think, i bought a small tin of (not so) clear ronseal outdoor varnish and did 2 coats because i was in a rush to get it done and have the final product (you never do realise the importance of patience until you get older haha) for the amount of time i rushed through it does looks good but whereas I'd put one of yours on display, mine would definitely be for a walk up in the mountains getting dirty and bashed about and not worrying about spoiling it. I have 3 sticks seasoned waiting to be worked on so will definitely be doing my homework over winter with straightening, varnishing, experimenting etc
Keep rambling away Francis 👍🏴
i always like to use one of many oils and then varnish after its drank as much oil as i think is necessary. i tried poly in the beginning and i dont like it personally at all. Francis said in another video that one shouldnt skimp on varnish and he was certainly correct.
Francis I don't have blackthorn yet, I know it takes time to grow. I have a couple quality oak wood sticks an when I have time I will get alot more oak wood sticks because oak is plentiful in the us. Anyways, to my point can I use wood stains on oak I hear the stains really enhance the grain of the wood which I want to do so I'll remove bark can I use stain on oak wood an blackthorn? I will take bark off blackthorn once it's developed an seasoned because I want to show an emphasize on the wood grain of blackthorn as well
I just received my first shillelagh & it was from Denis & Liam. I only just learned of yours, & everyone I have seen is beautiful. I will be adding one of yours to my new collection. One question is I am training in bataireacht, and will use my bata for walking, and self defense if needed so do you offer some that are sturdy , and that would work well with either hand, and do you offer a lead loaded knob?
I have a lot of issues against lead loading, the size and weight is to do with your ability, not too heavy is advice just ask the group you are training with about what they use
Francis can you use a polyurethane finish on a stick after you apply Danish oil or general finish to enhance the grain?
That would be a bit overkill
Francis also wanted to know an I'm sure you know because you come from a long line of quality shillelaghs makers. Does the stick from years ago have bark on the sticks or did they remove bark. I read somewhere that in the old days they removed the bark, you who come from a line of quality shillelaghs makers is that true that the sticks of the 1800's an early 1900's did they remove bark from shillelaghs. Reason I want to remove bark on some sticks so I can enhance wood grain. Some will have bark, some will not have bark
Bark stays on the blackthorn
Hi Francis how do you manage to make the bark that blackish purple colour finish
Experience
@@FrancisMcCaffrey5 I'm only a young lad starting out trying to make a few blackthorn sticks.. that's very much for your encouraging answer 👍
Sorry I ask so many questions Francis it's just your a quality shillelagh maker an obviously your ancestors passed information down through the family over the centuries
Keep asking I’ll catch up over the Christmas
Do you ever use boiled linseed oil
Not really is better on a large wood grain area like a cricket bat
Francis how were the Shillelagh’s finished off say in mid 17th century. Just curious
Thanks