I just inherited post-war (just after WW2) Gunline Tools and Dem-Bart checkering tools from dad. I do woodworking, mostly softwood architectural projects, some hardwood projects. Also got a Sears rifle that was hacked shorter, so I reprofiled the stock (video posted), and am thinking about doing this. I build plastic scale models that win awards, so I ought to be able to do this. Q: I wanted to see how the stock is held in place. Looks like you keep the barrel connected, and have a bearing pivot at each end, wood beam on a stand?
I imagine you will be able to do just fine checkering. The barrel on this is not connected, I have made a holding fixture using an old barrel so that it can mount solidly. That checkering cradle does not use any sort of bearings actually, it just has two sections of all thread on each end that put pressure on each end of the holding piece. This gives it enough resistance to hold it in place. The cradle is made out of 2x4s and is similar to the one brownells used to sell.
The ones I show at the end are all Ullman Precision made and are carbide which I prefer. The sizes are 5/8", 3/8", and right angle handle 3/16" all 90 degree cutters except for the 5/8" which is 75 degree. Also a LPI cutter will be needed.
I started checkering about a year ago. I’ve learned to check my lines for parallel often. Question: When you discover that your lines are not remaining straight, how do you start making a correction to slowly bring them back to parallel with the master line? Specifically, how do you hold and move the cutter to “steer” your lines?
Constant checking for parallel is essential! Especially around a pistol grip area. I use a wide piece of painters tape to guide my checkering tool. When going around a grip area where I know I'll have problems, I'll sometimes leave the last 3/4" uncut and then do that all at once at the end using tape for nearly every line. Hope that helps!
@@kurtthegunsmith thanks for the quick reply! Do you ever find you have gotten out of parallel and then have to bring them back? How does one make that correction?
Thank you! Very helpful. It is a lot of work but strangely satisfying.
I just inherited post-war (just after WW2) Gunline Tools and Dem-Bart checkering tools from dad. I do woodworking, mostly softwood architectural projects, some hardwood projects. Also got a Sears rifle that was hacked shorter, so I reprofiled the stock (video posted), and am thinking about doing this. I build plastic scale models that win awards, so I ought to be able to do this.
Q: I wanted to see how the stock is held in place. Looks like you keep the barrel connected, and have a bearing pivot at each end, wood beam on a stand?
I imagine you will be able to do just fine checkering. The barrel on this is not connected, I have made a holding fixture using an old barrel so that it can mount solidly. That checkering cradle does not use any sort of bearings actually, it just has two sections of all thread on each end that put pressure on each end of the holding piece. This gives it enough resistance to hold it in place. The cradle is made out of 2x4s and is similar to the one brownells used to sell.
Thanks for the tutorial.
Would you mind telling what exactly each of the 4 workhorse tools are called?
The ones I show at the end are all Ullman Precision made and are carbide which I prefer. The sizes are 5/8", 3/8", and right angle handle 3/16" all 90 degree cutters except for the 5/8" which is 75 degree. Also a LPI cutter will be needed.
How do I get into a tight corner right at the end of the pattern ?
A very short checkering tool cutter that works on the pull stroke
I started checkering about a year ago. I’ve learned to check my lines for parallel often. Question: When you discover that your lines are not remaining straight, how do you start making a correction to slowly bring them back to parallel with the master line? Specifically, how do you hold and move the cutter to “steer” your lines?
Constant checking for parallel is essential! Especially around a pistol grip area. I use a wide piece of painters tape to guide my checkering tool. When going around a grip area where I know I'll have problems, I'll sometimes leave the last 3/4" uncut and then do that all at once at the end using tape for nearly every line. Hope that helps!
@@kurtthegunsmith thanks for the quick reply! Do you ever find you have gotten out of parallel and then have to bring them back? How does one make that correction?
I also drink carbonated water, copious amounts actually