By request, for anyone who is really really interested in how I built this (and if you can follow these directions through to completion, I will be crazy impressed!): Material List: 2 Kura beds: $200 each Trofast storage combination with bins (pine finish): $115 Besta shelf unit (white finish): $40 4 pack of Dioder LED lights: $30 1x4, 2x4s, 4x4 (for the frame of the secret door): $25 Steel rods (for the secret door hinge, and the axle which allows the crane to rotate): $5 Lightweight craft wood (for the ball run): $20 PVC pipe and connectors (for the ball run): $20 Pulleys/rope: $15 Wood paneling: $30 Plywood (for slide support): $10 Whiteboard (for slide surface): $10 Blue contact paper: $50 Blue paint: $15 Clear wood stain: $10 Paint brushes: $10 Various hardware (e.g. nails, screws, hinges, latch): $20 Gorilla glue (i.e. super glue): $20 Kura Hideaway and Play Structure Step-by-Step Instructions: The Kura Hideaway and Play Structure consists of 9 large pieces, which can be constructed separately, and assembled in the bedroom in a relatively brief period of time. (The primary Kura bed - i.e. the one obviously recognizable in the final produce - will be referred to as Kura #1. The secondary Kura bed - i.e. the one which is used for parts throughout the structure - will be referred to as Kura #2) Piece #1: Slide/Toy Storage 1. Assemble Trofast 2. Cut plywood to size and attach it to the the top of the Trofast by nailing it to wedge-shaped pieces of wood that are attached to the top of the Trofast. 3. Cut up extra slats from Kura #2 and attach them together to form the two rails using a combination of wood glue and metal brackets. 4. Paint rails. 5. Attach rails to top of plywood using L shaped brackets. 6. Cut 2 vertical posts for the bottom from a piece from Kura #2, along with a horizontal piece in the front for added stability. ***7. Cut and attach to the very top of the Trofast a well sanded and rounded, horizontal piece of wood with a horizontal groove carved out of it, to help anchor the whiteboard and cover up its top edge, in order to prevent things from getting caught on it on the way down the slide. 8. Cut the whiteboard, slip it into the top groove mentioned in step 7, and then use a couple of finishing nails down the sides to hold it in place to the plywood. 9. Cut mdf board from Kura #2 to match the height of the middle column of the Trofast; cover one side with blue contact paper, and then nail it to the back of the middle column (blue side out). This will prevent someone from peering through the middle column into the secret room. 10. Cut mdf board from Kura #2 to match the height of the left (i.e. tallest) column of the Trofast, cover one side with blue contact paper, and attach it to the back of the leftmost column using hinges. This will serve as the back door to the secret room. A latch can be attached to this door and to the left side of Kura #1 (Piece 5), in order to allow one way travel out of the room only. With the dark blue color, and intervening bins, the back door should not be noticeable from the outside. (Alternatively, this back door could be only 2/3 as tall as described, which would allow one to interrupt 1 less horizontal support in piece #5, for extra stability). Piece #2: Platform support / Lower ball run (ball run is optional) 1. Using wood from Kura #2, create a rectangular structure the same height and depth as the Trofast bins, and of a width to accommodate an mdf board from Kura #2. 2. Take a mdf board from Kura #2, and reduce it's length to match the height of the rectangular structure in step #1. 3. If including the ball run, cut hole in the mdf board for the ball run exit. 4. Cover mdf board with blue contact paper, and slide it into place in the platform support ***5. If including the ball run, use PVC pipe and connectors to form path of your choosing. If desired, an internal ball collecting mechanism can be constructed from lightweight craft wood, with an off center axle that will catch balls midway through the run, and drop the lot of them once a fixed, predetermined number have been collected. The axle for this mechanism can be attached to one of the support posts of the platform support structure, and the lower half (i.e. distal to collecting mechanism) will be attached to the interior of the platform support. 6. If including the ball run, cut a circle into a square piece of wood to match the size of the PVC pipe, sand it, stain it, and attach it to the exterior of the mdf board, framing the exit hole of the ball run. ***7. If including the crane, cut a piece of wood from Kura #2 to be the same height as the 4 supporting legs to the platform support. This will be used as the crane support. Drill a deep hole in the center of this wood, along its long axis. (This will accommodate the steel rod used to rotate the crane.) In order to prevent the crane from wobbling, this hole must be drilled in precise direction and of precise diameter; it may be helpful to actually drill it large enough to accommodate a steel tube that is perfectly matched for the rod that will be attached to the crane.) 8. Attach the crane support to the remainder of the platform support in a location that is in the corner that will eventually be in the back left of the finished work. Piece #3: Platform / Upper ball run (ball run is optional) 1. Cut a piece of plywood to match the combined size of the upper tier of the Trofast storage system and the platform support (piece #2) 2. Cut slats from Kura 2 in order to fit this plywood, stain them, and nail to the plywood. 3. Using wood from Kura 2, create railing for platform at a height appropriate for the size of the child to be using the bed. 4. Cut additional slats from the Kura 2, paint blue, and attach together to form baseboard around the bottom of the platform 5. If including the ball run, cut a whole through both the plywood and attached, stained slats for the ball run entrance. 6. If including the ball run, cut a circle into a square piece of wood to match the size of the PVC pipe (identical to that in step 6 of piece #2), paint blue, and attach it to the top of the platform, framing the entrance hole. 7. If including the crane, attach a largely decorative piece of square wood that matches the size and design of that in step 6. (This will be the base of the crane). Drill a small hole through the decorative wood, slats, and plywood, in the exact location to match the crane support in step 7-8 of piece #2. (This hole must be drilled precisely, or the crane will not fit). Piece #4: Crane 1. Using wood from Kura #2, fashion an L shaped arm to serve as the crane. 2. Drill a deep hole along the long axis of the vertical component of the L shaped arm ***3. Insert and superglue a steel rod of appropriate length into the hole; the portion of the steel rod which sticks out beyond the wood will be inserted into the hole from step 7/piece #3, and on into the crane support from step 7-8/piece #2. 4. Drill holes in the horizontal component of the L shaped arm and screw into place eye hooks to be used as guides for the pulley. 5. Attach a cleat into the lower part of the vertical portion. This will be where the rope from the crane can be tied. Piece #5: Bed Left Side 1. Construct the left side of Kura #1 using the loft position (ladder on left), largely as described in official instructions. 2. The upper horizontal bar will need to be shortened, with a new vertical post created from Kura #2, in order to create a way of moving between the bed and the plaform 3. The lower 1-2 horizontal bars will need to be interrupted to make space for a back door from the secret room. 4. Cover the relevant mdf board from Kura #1 with blue contact paper before putting into place Piece #6: Bed Rear Side 1. Construct the rear side of Kura #1 using the loft position (ladder on left), identically as described in official instructions, with the exception of covering the mdf board with the contact paper. Piece #7: Bed Right Side 1. Construct the right side of Kura #1 using the loft position (ladder on left), identically as described in official instructions, with the exception of covering the mdf board with the contact paper. Piece #8: Bed Front Side 1. Construct the front side of Kura #1 using the loft position (ladder on left), identically as described in official instructions (including ladder) 2. Using extra wood from Kura #2, create 2 extra horizontal supports. Attach one just above the lower horizontal support on the front size of Kura #1, and the other just below the upper middle horizontal support. 3. Create a new vertical support from Kura #2, which should be placed in between and perpendicular to the extra horizontal supports described in step 2. This will help frame the bookcase on its right. 4. Insert a thin piece of mdf from Kura #2 vertically, just to the right of the ladder. Attach thin, stained wood paneling, in horizontal orientation to the outside of the mdf, using superglue. The width of this overall piece will need to be thin enough to accommodate the Besta/secret door mechanism just to its right. 5. Insert multiple pieces of mdf from Kura #2 vertically, to the right of the vertical support described in step 3. Attach thin, stained wood paneling, in horizontal orientation to the outside of the mdf using superglue, to match that described in step 4. 6. Using a combination of wood slats from Kura #2, mdf from Kura #2, and wood panelling, create a back for the ladder that will hide the secret room behind, while also providing enough extra room for children's toes when climbing the ladder. Piece #9: Secret Door 1. Construct the Besta shelving unit according to official instructions. 2. Scuff sand the shelving unit, and wipe clean, 3. Create a 4 sided frame for the door using a 4x4 for the side on the ground, and 2x4s for the other 3 sides. 4. In order to prevent the door falling inward when opened, attach an additional length of 4x4 horizontally to the left end of the 4x4 used for the bottom side of the frame. 5, Drill a vertical hole through the top and lower sides of the door frame, which will serve as part of the door hinge. 6. Cut short lengths of steel pipe/tubing and superglue them in place within the two aligned holes mentioned in step 5. ***7. Securely attach piece of 2x4 to the left side of the Besta unit, and drill holes into them such that they will be alligned with those in step 5 8. Cut 1x2s or pieces of slats from Kura #2 or similar sized wood and attach it perpendicularly to the left, right, and top sides of the Besta unit. (This will be necessary to hide the fact that the Besta is a door) 9. Paint the Besta shelving unit blue, including additional pieces from step 8 10. Cut a piece of wood from Kura #2 to create another vertical "support" to frame the Besta on the left. This should look symmetric and identical to the vertical support described in step 3/piece #8. "Support" is in quotation marks because it doesn't actually support anything, but is rather attached to the left sided additional wood added to the Besta in step 8. In order for the door to swing cleanly open and shut, this vertical piece of wood will need to be slightly shorter than than described in step 3/piece #8 11. Create a fake book to act as the unlocking mechanism for the secret door. This can be a solid piece of wood, with a fake cover attached. 12. Drill a hole through the bottom of the Besta near the right; and drill a corresponding hole into the 4x4 directly underneath. 13. Drill a hole into the bottom of the fake book, and insert a steel rod just long enough to penetrate into the 4x4's hole when the book is resting on the shelf, but short enough that it clears the 4x4's hole when lifted in place 14. Drill a hole horizontally through the back of the Besta from behind, into the fake book. Widen this hole in the Besta in the vertical direction only. Attach a steel rod to the fake book, after passing through the hole in the back of the Besta. This will allow someone inside the secret room to be able to lift up on the horizontally oriented rod, which will raise the fake book, and raise the vertical rod up and out of the 4x4 hole, just enough that the door can now be opened. 15. Line up holes on side of Besta described in step 7 with those in the frame described in step 5/6. Insert long steel rod through all of these holes, which will now serve as an axis/hinge around which the door can swing. 16. Attach knob to the inner horizontal steel rod and/or handle to the back side of the Besta, in order to aid children opening it from inside. Assembly of the 9 pieces together is intuitive. Be sure to securely fix the secret door and frame (piece #9) to the front side of Kura #1 (piece #8) to prevent the door/frame from migrating to the left or right, and to prevent it from falling inward. Also, be sure to securely fix the platform (piece #3) to the platform support (piece #2) and slide/toy storage (piece #1). SAFETY NOTE: The crane will NOT support a child's weight, and will almost certainly break if a child attempted to hang from it. Also, if a child attempted to climb on the platform railing, it is possible that either the railing would break off, or the entire combination of pieces #1-3 would tip over (if it's not securely attached to piece #5)
No, actually not. Here's some kickass pre-made beds: www.sweetretreatkids.com/twd-theme-beds.html Besides, there's also the fact that the revenue from the ads on this video have already paid for the bed, and then some!
+Eric Strong I guess that is good but I can't wrap my head around the idea that anyone would pay 600-2000 dollars for a kid a bed that he'll grow out of in a few years. To each his own but even if I had the money I don't think I would do it. I'm getting ready to pay 120 for a loft bed and I already feel that is to much since it's gonna break me
Haha holy crap I clicked off of the videos tab and clicked back on and a new video appeared! Talk about luck! I'd like to take this opportunity to say, oh my god, I want to become a father like you. Your bed design is actually incredible, I'm so jealous!
I know you didn't post a reaction video, but what was your son's reaction? Did he love it? This would have been awesome to have as a kid! Way to be a great Dad!
I love the bed that you made for your child. I wish UA-cam and ideas like yours were available when my child was young. 🙂 I'm glad you decided not to put your child on YT. There are way too many weirdos out there. Better to be safe than sorry! I realize this was years ago, but still....🙂
+Geforcelivingit He definitely liked it, and still does. The slide ended up being a little on the fast side. In retrospect, would have either changed the angle, or used a different surface that the whiteboard. (Though he's fine with it now.) He also hasn't expressed much interest in decorating the inside. Every time I ask him he wants to draw on the walls, or put up pictures, he says something like "I want to keep it plain". But that thing makes for killer hide-and-seek the first time a new friend comes over!
+Eric Strong maybe if you want to further upgrade it you could add whiteboard around the insides of it, or you can use the whiteboard paint. That way he could draw on the inside of it, would be rather cool!
Eric, this is Julie Iannuzzi at USA Today.. we'd love to take a few snippits of your video and show the transformation you did. We think it's really great & would love to share it with readers on USA Today and across Gannett
+Julie Iannuzzi Julie, that would be great! My only request is that you include a link to the original video. Please send me an email if you would like some high-res still pictures.
+AladinTECH There are electrical outlets in the other rooms in our home too. Our son may be 5, but he is old enough to have consistently demonstrated enough personal responsibility and understanding that we trust him to not stick things in the outlets.
You should always negotiate with your kids. They shouldn't always expect to get what they want, but they also shouldn't be taught to settle. My parents always gave me a choice; they told me the pros and cons, and consequences of each choice, but they always let me choose. Learning sacrifice for your family is good, but it's also pretty unfair to make your child give up something for their siblings without getting something they might love equally.
Hi Eric! I'm going to build something similar for my 3 year old son and was wondering what did you use for the slide. I am buying 2 Kura beds ( one bed on top of the other, so he has 2 spaces he can play in) and making him a "tree house" in his playroom. I want to use the Trofast as storage below and slide on top. I was considering buying a Linnmon table top to use as the slide but didn't know if it was necessary. Thanks!
UR R SOO TRULY COOL ! VERY SMART,CARING PERSON ,FATHER (AS I) . ALSO, HUSBAND .. WILL CHECK OUT ,UR OTHER CHANNEL . ONCE ,I REVIEW THIS VIDEO . GOD BLESS U AN UR FAMILY .! PLEASE ,KEEP BOTH .. CHANNELS .! TU. SIR .!
Eric Strong can you show explain how to do the secret door ? I would like to add that part to my kids bed. How is the system of that door ? I appreciate more information about that.
A sheet of whiteboard, purchased from Home Depot (I don't remember the cost, but it was cheap). It ended up being a little smoother (i.e. faster) than I was hoping for, but he got used to the speed after a few weeks.
+tyler gillentine I could try to write it out, but I think it will be extremely confusing without pictures. (And unfortunately, for some insane reason, I only took 1 during the construction - excluding the time lapse)
Can I suggest, adding some photos, (suitable annotated), to your instructions, to highlight each step. You have inspired me to build a bed along these lines for my nephew, only building from scratch, as it's much cheaper to buy the lumber rather than buying IKEA furniture.
By request, for anyone who is really really interested in how I built this (and if you can follow these directions through to completion, I will be crazy impressed!):
Material List:
2 Kura beds: $200 each
Trofast storage combination with bins (pine finish): $115
Besta shelf unit (white finish): $40
4 pack of Dioder LED lights: $30
1x4, 2x4s, 4x4 (for the frame of the secret door): $25
Steel rods (for the secret door hinge, and the axle which allows the crane to rotate): $5
Lightweight craft wood (for the ball run): $20
PVC pipe and connectors (for the ball run): $20
Pulleys/rope: $15
Wood paneling: $30
Plywood (for slide support): $10
Whiteboard (for slide surface): $10
Blue contact paper: $50
Blue paint: $15
Clear wood stain: $10
Paint brushes: $10
Various hardware (e.g. nails, screws, hinges, latch): $20
Gorilla glue (i.e. super glue): $20
Kura Hideaway and Play Structure Step-by-Step Instructions:
The Kura Hideaway and Play Structure consists of 9 large pieces, which can be constructed separately, and assembled in the bedroom in a relatively brief period of time.
(The primary Kura bed - i.e. the one obviously recognizable in the final produce - will be referred to as Kura #1. The secondary Kura bed - i.e. the one which is used for parts throughout the structure - will be referred to as Kura #2)
Piece #1: Slide/Toy Storage
1. Assemble Trofast
2. Cut plywood to size and attach it to the the top of the Trofast by nailing it to wedge-shaped pieces of wood that are attached to the top of the Trofast.
3. Cut up extra slats from Kura #2 and attach them together to form the two rails using a combination of wood glue and metal brackets.
4. Paint rails.
5. Attach rails to top of plywood using L shaped brackets.
6. Cut 2 vertical posts for the bottom from a piece from Kura #2, along with a horizontal piece in the front for added stability.
***7. Cut and attach to the very top of the Trofast a well sanded and rounded, horizontal piece of wood with a horizontal groove carved out of it, to help anchor the whiteboard and cover up its top edge, in order to prevent things from getting caught on it on the way down the slide.
8. Cut the whiteboard, slip it into the top groove mentioned in step 7, and then use a couple of finishing nails down the sides to hold it in place to the plywood.
9. Cut mdf board from Kura #2 to match the height of the middle column of the Trofast; cover one side with blue contact paper, and then nail it to the back of the middle column (blue side out). This will prevent someone from peering through the middle column into the secret room.
10. Cut mdf board from Kura #2 to match the height of the left (i.e. tallest) column of the Trofast, cover one side with blue contact paper, and attach it to the back of the leftmost column using hinges. This will serve as the back door to the secret room. A latch can be attached to this door and to the left side of Kura #1 (Piece 5), in order to allow one way travel out of the room only. With the dark blue color, and intervening bins, the back door should not be noticeable from the outside. (Alternatively, this back door could be only 2/3 as tall as described, which would allow one to interrupt 1 less horizontal support in piece #5, for extra stability).
Piece #2: Platform support / Lower ball run (ball run is optional)
1. Using wood from Kura #2, create a rectangular structure the same height and depth as the Trofast bins, and of a width to accommodate an mdf board from Kura #2.
2. Take a mdf board from Kura #2, and reduce it's length to match the height of the rectangular structure in step #1.
3. If including the ball run, cut hole in the mdf board for the ball run exit.
4. Cover mdf board with blue contact paper, and slide it into place in the platform support
***5. If including the ball run, use PVC pipe and connectors to form path of your choosing. If desired, an internal ball collecting mechanism can be constructed from lightweight craft wood, with an off center axle that will catch balls midway through the run, and drop the lot of them once a fixed, predetermined number have been collected. The axle for this mechanism can be attached to one of the support posts of the platform support structure, and the lower half (i.e. distal to collecting mechanism) will be attached to the interior of the platform support.
6. If including the ball run, cut a circle into a square piece of wood to match the size of the PVC pipe, sand it, stain it, and attach it to the exterior of the mdf board, framing the exit hole of the ball run.
***7. If including the crane, cut a piece of wood from Kura #2 to be the same height as the 4 supporting legs to the platform support. This will be used as the crane support. Drill a deep hole in the center of this wood, along its long axis. (This will accommodate the steel rod used to rotate the crane.) In order to prevent the crane from wobbling, this hole must be drilled in precise direction and of precise diameter; it may be helpful to actually drill it large enough to accommodate a steel tube that is perfectly matched for the rod that will be attached to the crane.)
8. Attach the crane support to the remainder of the platform support in a location that is in the corner that will eventually be in the back left of the finished work.
Piece #3: Platform / Upper ball run (ball run is optional)
1. Cut a piece of plywood to match the combined size of the upper tier of the Trofast storage system and the platform support (piece #2)
2. Cut slats from Kura 2 in order to fit this plywood, stain them, and nail to the plywood.
3. Using wood from Kura 2, create railing for platform at a height appropriate for the size of the child to be using the bed.
4. Cut additional slats from the Kura 2, paint blue, and attach together to form baseboard around the bottom of the platform
5. If including the ball run, cut a whole through both the plywood and attached, stained slats for the ball run entrance.
6. If including the ball run, cut a circle into a square piece of wood to match the size of the PVC pipe (identical to that in step 6 of piece #2), paint blue, and attach it to the top of the platform, framing the entrance hole.
7. If including the crane, attach a largely decorative piece of square wood that matches the size and design of that in step 6. (This will be the base of the crane). Drill a small hole through the decorative wood, slats, and plywood, in the exact location to match the crane support in step 7-8 of piece #2. (This hole must be drilled precisely, or the crane will not fit).
Piece #4: Crane
1. Using wood from Kura #2, fashion an L shaped arm to serve as the crane.
2. Drill a deep hole along the long axis of the vertical component of the L shaped arm
***3. Insert and superglue a steel rod of appropriate length into the hole; the portion of the steel rod which sticks out beyond the wood will be inserted into the hole from step 7/piece #3, and on into the crane support from step 7-8/piece #2.
4. Drill holes in the horizontal component of the L shaped arm and screw into place eye hooks to be used as guides for the pulley.
5. Attach a cleat into the lower part of the vertical portion. This will be where the rope from the crane can be tied.
Piece #5: Bed Left Side
1. Construct the left side of Kura #1 using the loft position (ladder on left), largely as described in official instructions.
2. The upper horizontal bar will need to be shortened, with a new vertical post created from Kura #2, in order to create a way of moving between the bed and the plaform
3. The lower 1-2 horizontal bars will need to be interrupted to make space for a back door from the secret room.
4. Cover the relevant mdf board from Kura #1 with blue contact paper before putting into place
Piece #6: Bed Rear Side
1. Construct the rear side of Kura #1 using the loft position (ladder on left), identically as described in official instructions, with the exception of covering the mdf board with the contact paper.
Piece #7: Bed Right Side
1. Construct the right side of Kura #1 using the loft position (ladder on left), identically as described in official instructions, with the exception of covering the mdf board with the contact paper.
Piece #8: Bed Front Side
1. Construct the front side of Kura #1 using the loft position (ladder on left), identically as described in official instructions (including ladder)
2. Using extra wood from Kura #2, create 2 extra horizontal supports. Attach one just above the lower horizontal support on the front size of Kura #1, and the other just below the upper middle horizontal support.
3. Create a new vertical support from Kura #2, which should be placed in between and perpendicular to the extra horizontal supports described in step 2. This will help frame the bookcase on its right.
4. Insert a thin piece of mdf from Kura #2 vertically, just to the right of the ladder. Attach thin, stained wood paneling, in horizontal orientation to the outside of the mdf, using superglue. The width of this overall piece will need to be thin enough to accommodate the Besta/secret door mechanism just to its right.
5. Insert multiple pieces of mdf from Kura #2 vertically, to the right of the vertical support described in step 3. Attach thin, stained wood paneling, in horizontal orientation to the outside of the mdf using superglue, to match that described in step 4.
6. Using a combination of wood slats from Kura #2, mdf from Kura #2, and wood panelling, create a back for the ladder that will hide the secret room behind, while also providing enough extra room for children's toes when climbing the ladder.
Piece #9: Secret Door
1. Construct the Besta shelving unit according to official instructions.
2. Scuff sand the shelving unit, and wipe clean,
3. Create a 4 sided frame for the door using a 4x4 for the side on the ground, and 2x4s for the other 3 sides.
4. In order to prevent the door falling inward when opened, attach an additional length of 4x4 horizontally to the left end of the 4x4 used for the bottom side of the frame.
5, Drill a vertical hole through the top and lower sides of the door frame, which will serve as part of the door hinge.
6. Cut short lengths of steel pipe/tubing and superglue them in place within the two aligned holes mentioned in step 5.
***7. Securely attach piece of 2x4 to the left side of the Besta unit, and drill holes into them such that they will be alligned with those in step 5
8. Cut 1x2s or pieces of slats from Kura #2 or similar sized wood and attach it perpendicularly to the left, right, and top sides of the Besta unit. (This will be necessary to hide the fact that the Besta is a door)
9. Paint the Besta shelving unit blue, including additional pieces from step 8
10. Cut a piece of wood from Kura #2 to create another vertical "support" to frame the Besta on the left. This should look symmetric and identical to the vertical support described in step 3/piece #8. "Support" is in quotation marks because it doesn't actually support anything, but is rather attached to the left sided additional wood added to the Besta in step 8. In order for the door to swing cleanly open and shut, this vertical piece of wood will need to be slightly shorter than than described in step 3/piece #8
11. Create a fake book to act as the unlocking mechanism for the secret door. This can be a solid piece of wood, with a fake cover attached.
12. Drill a hole through the bottom of the Besta near the right; and drill a corresponding hole into the 4x4 directly underneath.
13. Drill a hole into the bottom of the fake book, and insert a steel rod just long enough to penetrate into the 4x4's hole when the book is resting on the shelf, but short enough that it clears the 4x4's hole when lifted in place
14. Drill a hole horizontally through the back of the Besta from behind, into the fake book. Widen this hole in the Besta in the vertical direction only. Attach a steel rod to the fake book, after passing through the hole in the back of the Besta. This will allow someone inside the secret room to be able to lift up on the horizontally oriented rod, which will raise the fake book, and raise the vertical rod up and out of the 4x4 hole, just enough that the door can now be opened.
15. Line up holes on side of Besta described in step 7 with those in the frame described in step 5/6. Insert long steel rod through all of these holes, which will now serve as an axis/hinge around which the door can swing.
16. Attach knob to the inner horizontal steel rod and/or handle to the back side of the Besta, in order to aid children opening it from inside.
Assembly of the 9 pieces together is intuitive. Be sure to securely fix the secret door and frame (piece #9) to the front side of Kura #1 (piece #8) to prevent the door/frame from migrating to the left or right, and to prevent it from falling inward. Also, be sure to securely fix the platform (piece #3) to the platform support (piece #2) and slide/toy storage (piece #1).
SAFETY NOTE: The crane will NOT support a child's weight, and will almost certainly break if a child attempted to hang from it. Also, if a child attempted to climb on the platform railing, it is possible that either the railing would break off, or the entire combination of pieces #1-3 would tip over (if it's not securely attached to piece #5)
that sounds really expensive to me. you could just buy a pre-made awesome bed for what you spent on all that.
No, actually not. Here's some kickass pre-made beds: www.sweetretreatkids.com/twd-theme-beds.html
Besides, there's also the fact that the revenue from the ads on this video have already paid for the bed, and then some!
+Eric Strong I guess that is good but I can't wrap my head around the idea that anyone would pay 600-2000 dollars for a kid a bed that he'll grow out of in a few years. To each his own but even if I had the money I don't think I would do it. I'm getting ready to pay 120 for a loft bed and I already feel that is to much since it's gonna break me
The solution to your dilemma is simple - just have more kids! That way, you can keep passing down the bed for years and years, justifying the cost. ;)
+Eric Strong
Haha! GREAT response!:)
Creative building skills, good video making skills, and medical expertise? Ultimate badass. You rock.
From one Super-Dad to another...Great Job, very inspiring.
Haha holy crap I clicked off of the videos tab and clicked back on and a new video appeared! Talk about luck! I'd like to take this opportunity to say, oh my god, I want to become a father like you. Your bed design is actually incredible, I'm so jealous!
you and your wife seem to be very good parents
I just found that video and conveniently a follow up was just released. Awesome.
your kid is super lucky ^^ I wish my dad can build me a bed like you
I just love this guy for being so nice.
It is obvious to me that you are a great dad! Congrats on a fantastic design and build!
I like how calmly you say impaled XD
Ah-HA! I could tell that you had a significant amount of on-camera experience! :)
I know you didn't post a reaction video, but what was your son's reaction? Did he love it? This would have been awesome to have as a kid! Way to be a great Dad!
I love the bed that you made for your child. I wish UA-cam and ideas like yours were available when my child was young. 🙂 I'm glad you decided not to put your child on YT. There are way too many weirdos out there. Better to be safe than sorry! I realize this was years ago, but still....🙂
You must make a video teaching people how you made the kura bed!
Awesome!
Quick question, how did your son react to it? Is it the awesome bed that he wanted? Great little project!
+Geforcelivingit He definitely liked it, and still does. The slide ended up being a little on the fast side. In retrospect, would have either changed the angle, or used a different surface that the whiteboard. (Though he's fine with it now.) He also hasn't expressed much interest in decorating the inside. Every time I ask him he wants to draw on the walls, or put up pictures, he says something like "I want to keep it plain". But that thing makes for killer hide-and-seek the first time a new friend comes over!
+Eric Strong maybe if you want to further upgrade it you could add whiteboard around the insides of it, or you can use the whiteboard paint. That way he could draw on the inside of it, would be rather cool!
Geforcelivingit That's a great idea! Thanks!
Eric, this is Julie Iannuzzi at USA Today.. we'd love to take a few snippits of your video and show the transformation you did. We think it's really great & would love to share it with readers on USA Today and across Gannett
+Julie Iannuzzi Julie, that would be great! My only request is that you include a link to the original video. Please send me an email if you would like some high-res still pictures.
jiannuzzi@gannett.com
Awesome Dad, awesome bed! :D
Best thing i had ever built was out of lego
You beat me :(
nice
How did u build the door
Show us what it looks like now
Did he love the bed I did :-) my kids would have loved this bed when they were smaller :-)
How do you open the door from the inside?
Push the boxes
It seems like a lot of money for only a couple of years use. My brothers were 6 to 6'3" tall in middle school. This definately wouldn't work for them.
Is there any chance of someone buying it from you?
Sure, when my son outgrows it. He's still a few years away from that though.
Eric Strong does she has a little sibling that would wanna play with it or its completly fine?
I'm sure his little sister will want her own soon, but if so, I'll probably build a new one from scratch, based on her own interests.
Make more vids
And wtf, there is electricity plug in a "secret room" you could put wooden board or somthing to hide it
+AladinTECH There are electrical outlets in the other rooms in our home too. Our son may be 5, but he is old enough to have consistently demonstrated enough personal responsibility and understanding that we trust him to not stick things in the outlets.
+AladinTECH hahahahaha. oh wait, you were being serious???
wow only 2 vids. even I have more vids.
but he has better vids.
+AlienCat7 well yeah
wow... the smartest Dr. i ever see!
thumbs up! especially for the good video design ( animation and stuff)
You should always negotiate with your kids. They shouldn't always expect to get what they want, but they also shouldn't be taught to settle. My parents always gave me a choice; they told me the pros and cons, and consequences of each choice, but they always let me choose.
Learning sacrifice for your family is good, but it's also pretty unfair to make your child give up something for their siblings without getting something they might love equally.
and look where that's got you
Where the link to your other channel it's not in the description...
I like this dude
Can U Make More Building Videos
Yes I wish he could build one for himself
Hi Eric! I'm going to build something similar for my 3 year old son and was wondering what did you use for the slide. I am buying 2 Kura beds ( one bed on top of the other, so he has 2 spaces he can play in) and making him a "tree house" in his playroom. I want to use the Trofast as storage below and slide on top. I was considering buying a Linnmon table top to use as the slide but didn't know if it was necessary. Thanks!
i have the same proble. i only need the slide. how you did it? thanks!
The fact you kept a straight face with all of these questions....video gold!!
Can you come to my house because can you make a bunk bed so even my sister is here and my brother and even I am sick
dad:I estimated about 800 dollars
starts to regret….
2:16
Thank you it actually is the bernstain bears! Something with they changed it then changed it back. But thank you for clarifying!
Will this work for. 6 year old ?
好爸爸。向你学习。🖒🖒🖒🖒🖒🖒
Amazing!
UR R SOO TRULY COOL !
VERY SMART,CARING PERSON ,FATHER (AS I) .
ALSO, HUSBAND ..
WILL CHECK OUT ,UR OTHER CHANNEL .
ONCE ,I REVIEW THIS VIDEO . GOD BLESS U AN UR FAMILY .!
PLEASE ,KEEP BOTH ..
CHANNELS .!
TU. SIR .!
That was a great video. you should really do more creative mod/hacks :)
Eric Strong can you show explain how to do the secret door ? I would like to add that part to my kids bed. How is the system of that door ? I appreciate more information about that.
Eric i have a question about your sons bed and the slide. what did you use for the slide?
A sheet of whiteboard, purchased from Home Depot (I don't remember the cost, but it was cheap). It ended up being a little smoother (i.e. faster) than I was hoping for, but he got used to the speed after a few weeks.
you are an awesome father and doctor (probably husband too)
you should have made a reaciton video from you son...
I already had that bed so this is perfect for me
Same I just saw this after a year
You could have filmed the reaction and blurred/censored his face
then there's no reaction
you're hilarious
awesome dad
This is cool
Good job
Hi
Do you have instructions anywhere so we could build our own?
+tyler gillentine I could try to write it out, but I think it will be extremely confusing without pictures. (And unfortunately, for some insane reason, I only took 1 during the construction - excluding the time lapse)
+abdelaziz hussain If I remember correctly, his response was "yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah" while jumping up and down.
+Eric Strong even if it was confusing, is there any chance you could make a set of instructions, with sketches if need be maybe?
+Etce See above.
Can I suggest, adding some photos, (suitable annotated), to your instructions, to highlight each step. You have inspired me to build a bed along these lines for my nephew, only building from scratch, as it's much cheaper to buy the lumber rather than buying IKEA furniture.