Hi-Lift combination or bottle jack combination?
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- Опубліковано 28 лип 2020
- #hilift #jacking
We all need to change wheels, and the OEM jack often isn't good enough. So you need something better, and one principle is that every tool should be multi-functional. But, you also need to minimise weight and space...so which jacking solution is best for you? Here's a look at some options.
Post questions as comments!
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![ПОЛНАЯ ИСТОРИЯ ЭКЗОРЦИЗМА [Топ Сикрет]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qBySr6Bt0B8/mqdefault.jpg)
I need to point out that the attachment point of the Lift-Mate that you demonstrate is a safety hazard. The hooks of the Lift-Mate must be positioned above the level of the axle to ensure stability. If the attachment points are below the centeline of the axle and the vehicle shifts forward or backward it can cause the wheel to spin and dump the vehicle off of the jack.
But also the higher you go the harder it is to lift, and if the wheel is prevented from turning, then that's ok?
How often are you using a Hi-Lift on flat solid ground while wheeling? It's not worth the risk.
3:05 While I prefer the Pin type stand myself - there is a tab you're supposed to knock in, that is visible here, once assembled. It's near the top. Take a punch and knock it inward and it won't come apart anymore.
This was quite informative and I particularly liked the safety tips you provided.
I carry two to three jacks . The standard scissor that comes with the Nissan , a genuine Hi-Lift across the spare tyre well , and a small hydraulic bottle jack in my trailer box that can easily lift either the car or the trailer. Sometimes one jack just can't do the job because of the varying environmental conditions . High Lift is good for getting out of bogs but not so useful for changing tyres on most vehicles unless you have a stand as shown and it has to be fairly high as the wheel will drop down on the suspension quite a bit as the High Lift jacks is lowered .
On my High lift I have a short length of cord tied to one hook shaft and I past the cord through the wheel spokes and tie the other hook in. Then I lift . Avoids the difficulty of keeping the hooks engaged while trying to raise the jack .
The HiLift jack has a caacity of 7,000 pounds or 3.5 tons, and having used one since 1972, I have lifted many loads with mine, including the rear bumper of a 32 passenger school bus whose dual wheels were over a water bar cutout and the bumper was on the high point. Lifted it and filled the gap with rock and proceeded. Continuing on, I had to use the jack to push a 1000 pound boulder over the edge on the inside of a corner where it had jammed me up.
Hi Lift jacks made ONLY here in Bloomfield Indiana USA. Just walked by the factory today. Small town of around 2,000 people.
Good video!
Yep!
I use a mate and a high lift jack for 15 years - can be such a good recovery tool when bogged: just lift the wheel that lost traction up and chuck some rocks, timber....what ever you find under it that would give you enough traction....then lower it and most of the time you will find that it worked....
winching with a jack is a PITA so ...I use a standard hand winch that allows me to winch in every direction needed...
My only two (new) Jack's are the two types you compared in your video. You refer to them as high lift and bottle, here in the USA we call them farm jacks but also sometimes high lift, and the other type is a hydraulic, piston or bottle. Thanks for your videos and also thanks very much for including safety tips.
I used a hi lift jack to lift my F150 by the tow hook on the front bumper to reseat a tire, in the middle of a blizzard. not a fun day, and i found out I only just had enough lead in my pockets to work the lever.
Jack-mate straps attached to a wheel are great, but as you point out Robert you have extra work now if that's the wheel you want to change. Well built and fitted rock sliders can support the weight of the vehicle. There are now adaptors made to cup under the rail of a rock slider to be used in conjunction with the high lift jack. These are designed to stop the high lift jack sliding along under the rail if it's off the true vertical axis.
A separate larger than standard jack base plate is an inexpensive worthwhile addition. Another top tip is to open any car door the jack is climbing beside, so if the jack does start leaning in you have more clearance before expensive door contact....!
Good tips like them 👍
Really enjoying your videos. I typically carry my OE scissor jack with AEV base/chock and my Hi-Lift as well. I like having options.
I find a scissor jack is really useful too as with a flat tyre the bottle jack doesn't have enough room underneath the axle. So the scissor can lift the axle enough to get the bottle jack under and lift higher.
Great info! Have used high lift jacks quite a bit but have since migrated to carrying a floor jack and a bottle jack. But high lift is better if you are traveling alone (nobody to pull you out of a stuck).
Great vid, there's too much negative press about the hi-lift. If you spin the offset base around (You might need to remove the split pin on that model and replace it with a cotter pin) you'll get the standard's base closer to the wheel, it decreases the tendency of the standard to lean toward the car.
I replace the split pin with a hi-tensile bolt as I remove the base for storage, and the pin is too much hard work to remove.
Nice presentation Robert, never used a hi lift, that wheel attachment is a bit tricky as you don't have to compensate for suspension travel, l don't have a use for one day to day, but would now definitely pack one for an expedition.
Chears Nige, 👍👍
By far the best bottle jack I have ever come across was the factory Land Rover hydraulic jack. Not only did it have a cradle which fits just about every live axle under the sun, but it also has a remarkably high lift. The jack is still available from Britpart stockists complete with the very nice handles under Part No. ANR4489, but it's not cheap!
In any case, my preferred jack is a 48" Hi-Lift All-Cast HL485 which is securely mounted and locked to my swing-away wheel carrier with a purpose designed bracket. I also have a bumper lift because that way I can lift directly from my rear recovery point without having to remove one of my spare wheels. I don't have the Lift-Mate as it doesn't work with the standard Series III wheel as it has no spokes, so it would be fairly useless!
I will definitely look for the Bahco axle stands though, when something like that folds away so neatly, it's stupid not to have one for safety sake! With a 2500 kg capacity, a pair will support my entire 88" Series III at GVW with 380 kg to spare.
Thanks great information !
Thanks for the video.
Hi Robert, you can secure the vertical adjustment of the 4 leg axle stand by bending the tabs in. This stops then them from falling out. love the presentation.
Thanks good point.
Have a look at lock your hubs and the oz trail 24watt camp light. So make a handle extension with lock pins. Cut one end at 45 degrees. Now easy winching or hammer into ground and put light on anywhere the cable reaches. Think car broken. Now you have light in full work area.
Nice summary. But I am surprised by the prices you post. Looking online in the U.S. on October 2021, the going rate for the 1260mm lift variant (most common size in the U.S.) is between $100 and $130. Using the current exchange rate, this would correspond to between $135 and $176 in Australian dollars. Yet you posted $400. Should I assume that price includes both the 'Jack Mate' and the axle stand?
Correct, all 3
I own both. Just made an axle cradle for the bottle jack like yours. It's been incredibly handy not only for lifting axles, but for lifting at the frame to un-snag a vehicle hung up on a rock. Sometimes I just bring the handle of the hi lift and leave the rest at home because I use it a lot more than the jack itself anymore.
Got any photos? Sounds interesting !
@@L2SFBC
photos.app.goo.gl/Yk4aLRyH8Ud1ze897
Nothing special really, just a few scraps I found in the garage. It works much better than trying to balance an axle or frame on the top of the bottle jack without it though.
The fact that a vehicle can "fall off" a Hi-Lift jack can be an advantage in certain situations if you know what you're doing and doing it intentionally. For example, let's say you have a vehicle whose engine will not start, but you need to move over to the side. You can use the Hi-Lift jack to lift it a couple of inches at the receiver hitch and then push the vehicle to the side that you want it to fall... For the front, it helps if you have an bumper that is actually made for jacking (unlike all the factory bumpers these days)...
I've probably used Hi-Lift jacks for tasks OTHER THAN changing tires a lot more than for changing tires... They are great for pulling 4x4 fence posts that have been set in concrete... Each type of jack has it's advantages and disadvantages... I have Hi-Lift, hydraulic bottle, hydraulic floor, scissor, and screw type bottle jacks and each get used for various tasks, often not even vehicle related... For example, I find the screw type bottle jack to be especially useful when I need to change the kitchen under sink garbage disposal... The scissor type jacks are great when you have a vehicle that you need to lift which have very little ground clearance and a floor hydraulic jack will not roll under it...
Also, keeping some 2x4 pieces cut for cribbing will help for lifting or as a jack stand or as a platform to sit your hydraulic bottle jack on when lifting at the axle... With cribbing, as you are jacking up the axle, you keep adding cribbing pieces as you are jacking up the axle as space becomes available for the next cribbing piece, so if you are using 2x4s, then the furthest that the vehicle could drop would be 1.5" (since a 2x4 is actually 1.5"x3.5")... Some people prefer to use 4x4 pieces instead of 2x4s...You can combine them, of course, as long as you don't mix and match on a single level of cribbing...
Thanks, great post!
@@L2SFBC -- Thanks... Of course, the PERFECT jack for the task at hand is usually the one that you DON'T have with you at the time... :)
Great Video's, love your content. Keep up the great work. Particularly love your videos on X # of ways to winch with snatchblocks and without etc.
Thanks! Please share 👍
Great video I used something similar. But a better idea I found was to use a strop that wraps around the wheel and attachment the the jack works a treat
Great tip!
Hi Lift user for many, many years, I recently got my hands on a bottle jack/jack stand. Very hand piece of gear.
Yes I've seen them in the USA but not in Australia!
Thanks
Thank you for the Super Thanks!
Great content. And a great channel. Could you please link or give the name / model of the collapsible Jack stand? Couldn’t find it anywhere
Thank you! Bahco 2T Alloy Jack Stands
Great video. I have looked at several jack stands like the one you showed that are available in the U.S., but they did not seem to provide the height necessary. Is there a general minimum height needed for a jack stand for a stock Tacoma?
I would make sure it can raise the wheel at least 2 inches above the ground. Offroad surfaces are uneven.
Any opinions about the ARB Hydraulic Jack? Although it is very expensive, but I think it can replace both Hi Lift Jack and Bottle Jack
I prefer the Hi Lift. Can do more than the ARB and is cheaper.
read the manual for the high lift winch yes 4000kg but jacking good for 4000kg for the first 30 to 32 cm not the full height
Excellent points thanks should have added them!
Hi lift jacks ARE dangerous unless your very familiar with their use. I’ll use a bottle jack 9 times out of ten. Your strap to the tire and hilift will cause many to get hilift into fender. I live on a farm and we have both and wont use hilift unless absolutely the last resort.
If you have to still use a jackstand why not just have a bottle Jack then
Because the jackstand is safer, and the hi-lift has many other uses.
Thanks
Please share
@@L2SFBC thanks again, I will.