Discus Breeding Best Practices | Tips To Keep Your Discus Pair Happy

Kelvin gives us some helpful tips and tricks to keep your Discus breeding pair happy. Learn whether it's possible to raise fry in a community tank and how to transfer your Discus pair and their eggs safely into their own tank.
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[@MagesC4]

Thank U

[@sandipahirrao1]

Excellent!!🎉❤

[@albosmum5210]

Good general advice.
A couple of other things I have found in my experience. New young parents sometimes need a few practice sessions to get their act together. eg they freak out at each new stage of development and must learn with experience ie some will eat their eggs immediately after spawning, or when they first become wringlers, when the babies start to be free swimming and try to swim to the parents who want to put them back where they were. In my experience, once the babies have bonded with and attached to the parents, they are pretty well right. Let the parents feed and look after them for the first two weeks, then they will gradually wean themselves on to smaller bits of whatever you are feeding the parents. Keep up the water changes and filtration....100 rapidly baby discus eat a lot but also create a lot of waste. Keep their little bellies full and offer them a wide variety so they don't get too fuzzy or only stuck on one type of food. Happy baby discus should be active and little gobble -gutz.
One other tip I would question Kelvin on : obviously a separate easy to clean breeding tank is best, but if you have a pair that are nervous and constantly eat their eggs/fry, try a small cheap dither fish like a zebra danio ( nothing that could harm the parents or even wipe out a whole clutch of babies. ) The urge to protect the nest/eggs/babies can sometimes can reinforce the bond between the parents and distract them from self destroying their sprawn, sort of like a united common enterprise. Baring all that, remember, some pairs never get their act together and are duds. ( Some have been line bred so far from wild stock, they have lost the inane instincts allowing them to naturally do the job. Also some pairs simply don't like each other} Throw those back into a group and maybe they will reform a more productive pairing.
Final tip: be patient.
Cheers from Col in Cairns.

[@Infomaticx]

Discuss Fish Laying EGGS Video : ua-cam.com/video/2H2AirEg-Z0/v-deo.html

[@alejandrodelreal5525]

Hello, greetings from Mexico. Excelent content. I would like to know your point of view about the fact that I had a clutch with a high fertilization rate, without fungus, but on the third day, prior to free swimming, the hatched fry detached themselves from the cone, falling and dying (or perhaps they died first and then fell). Thank you.

[@tushar21]

When the fry are free swimming with the parents, how to feed the parents? I am scared the parents will mistakenly eat the fry. Also what light do you keep at night? White or yellow and how powerful?

[@OZDiscus]

No light needed. Parents are much more intuitive than you think. (Good parents). Feed the parents as usual but make sure you dont overfeed and fouls the water.

[@christopherk7920]

I have been breeding discus for many yrs (but I have stopped). My typical setup is 1.5 x 1.5 x 1.5 ft for a pair. Add a small filtration pump just to keep the water clean and clear with occasional water change of 30-40%.
Usually, all my pairs have been conditioned on 1-1.5mm Otohime pellets (48% protein) and fortified with amino acid, probiotic & vitamins. The said nutrients are usually pre-mixed in liquid form and can be lightly sprayed on the pellets via an atomizer (which you can get very cheaply fr China). Allow it to soak in the fridge and after 2-3 days, it will dry off. They are fed 3 times a day and I do give them treats like frozen Mysis shrimp fr time to time (I do not feed blood worms at all).
All my fries, once free swimming and able to consume BBS (while with their parents), will be transferred to a nursing tank (2ft x 1ft x 1ft). They will be fed 4-5 times a day with BBS until they reach about 1.5-2 weeks old.
By this time, I will switch to a mixture of BBS and Otohime micro pellets (75-350 microns). Allow the pellets to soak in the mixture for few minutes to prevent the fries fr getting tummy issues like bloating.
The down side is you will need to stir the water fr time to time to allow the pellets to stay in the mid column of the water. Eventually the fries will start consuming the pellets. That's when I will switch exclusively to pellet only diet.

[@OZDiscus]

Thank you for sharing your method for breeding and feeding preparation.

[@christopherk7920]

@@OZDiscus welcome & I hope everyone benefits fr my experience cos discus can grow just as big as those fed exclusively on beefheart

[@OZDiscus]

Thank you. Absolutely. We use Seafood mix instead of beefheart and have excellent and in many cases better result

[@Fishingaround420]

Question: I have a pair of yellow pigeon bloods that went crazy pairing up stressed my other discus to death 😢 they been allone for 3 months but there afraid verry stressed done treatments illness is out of question there are no other fish in the tank kept verry clean is it because there on there own I might sell them for a better life if I can’t fix

[@christopherk7920]

@@Fishingaround420 if you have a passion for breeding discus, perhaps you should try to be patient and give them the best water quality and environment possible + good quality food. Usually when my discus is not feeling well, I would usually minimize the stress by providing clean water, sufficient space and no frozen live food.

[@thericansnowboarder5510]

My pair grew their fry and i removed them from the parents. Now they have not spawned again. Its been 3 months since i removed the fry and still no spawn. How can i stimulate them to spawn again. I have done big water changes, lowered the temps a little. I recently moved them back to the community tank and now i am seeing some spawn behavior but still no spawn. Thank you in advance any advice will help.

[@albosmum5210]

Why lower the temperature? I tend to raise the temp. min 28C, even sometimes they get up to 32C I realise an influx of slightly cooler freshwater can be a trigger for some species like corydoras, simulation the onset of a monsoon. but not so with discus.

[@michelhaineault6654]

ph tds ???

[@OZDiscus]

We’re breeding in ph 7.6 and tds is about 150

[@michelhaineault6654]

@@OZDiscus Merci