Table of Contents: 04:36 - Next motor development? 05:02 - Copy problem and development 07:05 - $129 7" quad with GPS inclued 10:33 - DAL 7056 11:35 - a BUNCH of new antennas 14:56 - New FPV camera from Eachine 16:25 - FPV camera comparisons 18:09 - Nano FPV cam comparisons 19:13 - HQ 3x2 prop 20:32 - HQ 65mm (finally) 23:11 - 76mm Tello prop 25:37 - Toothpick Travel Charger 26:51 - Diatone Toothpick Colab 29:01 - New type of goggle strap? ▼ Things in this video: 2508 (awesome 6", great 7"): bit.ly/2VkLFik 2806.5 (awesome 7"): bit.ly/2OafeF6 $129 7" quad: bit.ly/2yiI3nS DAL 7056: bit.ly/2GwXdKQ Lumenier Axii 2 antennas: bit.ly/2Zj4sNO Eachine Bat FPV cam: bit.ly/2Zeie4c Nano 2 cam: bit.ly/2Yn5Em8 Racer nano cam: bit.ly/2Zez4jj Whoop AIO cam: bit.ly/2YjwZBy Whoop standalone cam: bit.ly/2YBkoy1 HQ 3x3: bit.ly/313IoqL HQ 3x2: Not available yet HQ 65mm: Not available yet New Gemfan 65mm: bit.ly/2GxLJH7 Tello Prop 1: bit.ly/2SHzUCO Tello Prop 2: bit.ly/313IE9d Tello Prop 3: bit.ly/3130h9w 1.4mm drill: bit.ly/2MtHZdx Travel charger: bit.ly/2Zfbgfq XT30 Balance board: bit.ly/2Yoj3GD Diatone Toothpick 2" 2S: bit.ly/2XWAvpd Diatone Toothpick 2" 3S: bit.ly/2XH4zpC Diatone Toothpick 3": bit.ly/32kA8V1 Diatone's new 16x16 stack: bit.ly/2XWCw4L New Goggle strap type: bit.ly/2OjYgE5 2508 motor review: bit.ly/310y8Qo 2608.5 motor review: bit.ly/30XMeSr A toothbrush I'm gonna review when it's back in stock: bit.ly/2K5ZoG8 ▼ COUPON code spreadsheet link: bit.ly/2JWLBBE Some of these codes are made exclusively for my channel and can't be found anywhere else. ▼Join my FB group for more discussion: Kabab FPV facebook.com/groups/379155946182689/ ▼ The 5" quad setup: -Hyperlite Glide Floss (will be re-released soon) -Motor 1750kv/ESC combo: bit.ly/2XAEHXH -WaFL’s Cap Cap: bit.ly/2GUpXxO -Battery: bit.ly/2XXjbwU -FC: bit.ly/2XRc8G8 -FPV Cam: bit.ly/2Q7LfL7 -Vtx: bit.ly/2HsrASs -ND GoPro Mount 30deg: bit.ly/2WC15zc -ND Filter (if used): bit.ly/2WEmQ1j - My favorite battery: bit.ly/2xWjYTJ -An annoying 643g AUW on this quad ▼Notable motors: -Xing 2306: bit.ly/30uYo4Q -Xing 2208: bit.ly/2y3te8R -FANTASTIC 6" motor: bit.ly/2LqghOZ ▼ 5" Sub $200 build that's still good -Frame: goo.gl/EpXQhZ -FC/4in1 Stack: goo.gl/HprVbj -Motors: bit.ly/30uYo4Q -Props: goo.gl/ZnzY2y -Props: goo.gl/VMBiQh -FPV Cam: goo.gl/FDJhYw -Vtx: goo.gl/JNVDMn -Starter goggles: goo.gl/GvJUkT -Batt pad material: bit.ly/2QGWhYb ▼ If you want to solder better: -Fantastic solder: amzn.to/2P5QM2W -Fantastic iron: goo.gl/DqBipa ▼ Tips? -PayPal: www.paypal.me/kababfpv -Bitcoin: 1E4XZXoD4rS6MYWVWuenY7Kw2M1YgyNpoQ -Nano: xrb_1188ek5bd7tb9kw67asnp9o65byuoaxbtpxuznx1ribf75x78awywmakj55f -ETH: 0xD067F93811f2eC31CB1928901002dfdf9A492EF5 -LTC: La2KWYAjp4VT2Lq2M76pbjzXWvRyjpfCtG -Tesla Referal code: ts.la/bob40889 Please use my referral code if you're gonna buy a Tesla. You get some free stuff when you do and I get better status with Tesla.
I really like those toothpick props!!! The toothpick is hands down my favorite size fpv drone out!!!!! I LOVE IT!!! It looks so fun 2 fly!!! Im really sad my jeep just blew the engine and now my money is going towards a crapy car and not a toothpick and some new gear!!!! I'll get one soon i hope!!!!! My fingers are crossed on the Nick Burns giveaway!!!! Man i wish i could win that sweet drone!!! Its not the best toothpick out but its a good one!!!! I know i probably will not win. But i love knowing that there is a chance!!!!! Man that gets me pumped!!! Hope your having a good weekend!!!! Fly a drone for me because im working 9am till midnight all weekend!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Great Channel!!
Hey bob, as a electronics engineer, a 90 degree connector introduces a mere 0.2dB of attenuation, which means 95.5% of the power still passes through it. So it is completely inconsequential losses in this application
Motor Madness also keep in mind that range is not in linear proportion to power out put. It’s the inverse square law. 16x the power= only 4x the range. This means that a small change in power means a practically undetectable change in range. Correct me if I’m wrong
Antenna stuff - have you seen Painless360's Antenna Lab videos? He worked with MenaceRC and their high end RF equipment to test various theories regarding antennas; mounting in TPU, bending the wire, using extension cables/adapters, covering with heatshrink etc. - ua-cam.com/users/results?search_query=painless360+antenna+lab
Well as luck would have it, I was rewinding some 24 turn emax rs 2306 as I watched your video. A larger upper bearing displaces stator volume? And the stator has fixed outer dimensions. So the stator would be have less room for turns/ wire. I guess my point being that re-engineering the stator for larger bearings could really affect power characteristics as well. I know....I’m way down the rabbit hole! Happy flying:-)
So far my only complaint about the toothpick (the original 1s version with the Hyperlite motors, whoop camera, etc) is that it's super sensitive to the props getting dinged up or bent. If they get a tiny bit out of whack it flies really poorly. So if there are more durable props coming out that'll be huge.
It's weird you could almost attribute the smoothness of that 12mm bearing to the fact that it may hold on to more inertia in 0- low throttle situations. You then have to take into account ESC braking countering this effect, its all very interesting. You could almost draw comparisons with automotive flywheels - different weights alter RPM loss between gear shifts but provide different throttle responses. Lighter flywheels loose more RPM between gear shifts but have better response from 0 throttle. Heavier flywheels loose less RPM between gear shifts but have less response from 0 throttle. You probably already knew this hahaha Love you're videos man many thanks
Ibcrazy showed what little effect SMA connectors and coax extensions have on signal strength/quality. The only problem with the right angle connectors IMO is that it is 2 halves that are press fit together which means they can fall apart when you least want it to. But it can be remedied by soldering the seam of press fit. Alex also shows that in one of his vids.
Bob, I noticed the Diatone toothpick you were holding had a broken motor stem, which seems to be a common problem with the toothpick "class" from what I've heard. I've flown a couple toothpick class quads that other local guys have, but have been holding off on getting one myself due to durability concerns - I do tend to fly somewhat aggressively. Do you know if anyone has looked into using a titanium motor shaft to increase durability?
I'm working on it. New wave of motors coming in about a month. It doesn't happen very often but running into a brick wall at full speed will do that sometimes...
Tello is the name of DJI's 8.5mm brushed hd drone. I'm guessing that those 76mm props knock offs made for it,that's why they are only made for 1mm shafts. I definitely think your right about the bigger bearings being the reason a motor is smoother, also I'd be willing to bet that bigger bearings will be much more durable and will run smoothly longer as well.they will wear out slower because there will be less strain due to the size.
Right angle joints affecting signal performance makes sense as you are sending very delicate analogue signals down a conductor which suddenly meets a dead end, which will cause some signal to reflect. It’s the same reason why you never see right angles on PCB traces. However if you don’t notice a difference, then there’s really no reason to give up your convenience.
Thanks Bob for the info. Am I correct in saying that eachine doesn't actually manufacturer any of it's products. They just go around and find "good" products and brand them eachine and sell them on banggood. Can't wait for the release of your toothpick! I really hope diatones high quality combined with your genius makes for a good flyer! I appreciate all the time you put into these videos! Brian
Image distortion in Falkor micro is so strong that it was barely flyable for me. Have these exchanged for a Ratel 1.66, the image distortion is now gone and it flies great. The Ratel 2.1 has a stronger image distortion with the same FOV, which did you use in the comparison video?
Since you are always having a hard time finding somewhere to fly. I used to live in LA and I had that same problem until I found the Van Nuys RC air field. It was always a blast flying there. You should try it out some time. The drone section is the big field on the south end. Just fair warning to avoid the helipads so yah don't upset the heli freinds ^_^
Hey Kabab, saw your diatone collaboration ultralight coming out - congrats. Tell me tho why wouldn’t you rotate the boards 45deg for improved placement and compact build? Whoops been doing that forever! Cheers mate
I was literally walking out the door to fly a couple packs and had to check tou post,yep interesting...so I will cje k it out when done ripping paks,I actually built a 4"floss style w/2206 2300kv motors and it is a beast with long flite times on 850 s,on 1300 it's a.blast can get almost 10minuye cruise,be back to finish qatchong,jabe a great day😊
The large bearing probably won't hurt power by way of theory. I don't remember core mass actually being a factor. I know magnetic permeability is a factor and permanence is probably a problem for efficiency. But the volume theory doesn't work based on mass as for as I know. I think it has more to do with cylinder area. No need to factor in pi because it's constant, unless you want to use actual units not just make your own unit. Stator volume is really a misnomer because nobody squares the diameter or radius when they talk about the volume theory... Anyway as for the bearings it will limit the winding volume which will mean higher kv and/or limited amp due to smaller wire diameter. This might mean you're looking at 3s and 4s motors or atleast make 6s motors really difficult to make in 22mm stators and make 24mm stators more popular.
A mold doesn't have to be made to test larger bearings. I don't imagine it would be all that expensive to have someone CNC a set of motor cores sized to fit some existing bells. Someone would just have to take the time to wind the motor by hand. I have no idea if the experiment would be worth the effort, though!
the right angle adapter is a loss, but the difference is nothing that you or I would notice at the distances we fly. I don't understand why people put anything other than a dipole on a toothpick. dipole works perfectly fine for me, but i also rarely fly with more than myself, at most 2 other people. I've got that $35 runcam nano, it sucks.
You mentioned that the HQ prop had awful balance. Could you please recommend something decent for 2.5 inchers? I have bad experience with genfans and hqs x3 bladed props - they seem to be poory balanced and a kwad behaves like a boat at mid throttle regardless of pids and filters. King Kongs x4 have no this problem, but they bend too easily
Is it, you know, a balls thing? I'm talking about the bearings :) A larger bearing will have more balls than a smaller bearing of the same distance between inner & outer diameters. I'm guessing more points of contact evenly distributed will keep its alignment better.
Would you say the gtb229(2s) or gtb239(3s) is the best choice for a toothpick? This seems like a better choice than the other stuff out there. Red devil bad camera, sailfly-x only 25mw vtx..
@@Kabab How quiet is the 3inch? That's the main thing I'm going for. Of course performance shouldn't be bad either, but it seems these 2.5inch toothpicks are what I'm looking for.
okay i bought 4 1800 kv kabab style when i should have bought more ...you know were i can find one ....and love when you do these i think i like looking at motors ....
@@NOIZYB message me on FB. For $50 I'll send you all four. They have no accidents on them but they do have a bit of annoying sand in them. This set is not really that used.
Bearings, arguably we should be using roller bearings or needle bearings. BB type bearings are really designed for low to zero load scenarios. Other bearing types are much better at load bearing. I've had a hunt but I can't find any suitable bearing small enough. I'm a big fan of 3s 3", still think the rcx 1304-5000kv is the best micro motor around. I am not a fan of the pod design though, I take your point about the cog but I also need something that doesn't get decapitated when scraggle happens. I've broken a whoop board from stressing it and lost an rx over a couple of attempts with pods recently.
@@jjj25313 meh, it's too heavy and noisy for what I want'. Even if the motors weighed the same I'd still need a 650 4s at minimum vs the 450 3s I run on my 1304s. They'll never compete in speed runs but the 1304s have enough power and huge amounts more control.
@@frasersteen I see. More Noisey? I do notice that. I feel like the emax 1306rs were smoother. I already had a 1407 build, but I do really like using the t style props and shedding that extra 3.5mm of shaft/locknut off of it. makes for a wicked fast 3 inch, that still has some good control. It may seem silly, but "civilians" are blown away when such a small toy punches out like that thing does. It definitely makes people interested in the hobby XD. I already had a few geprc sparrow 4mm bottom plates and 500/850 4s batteries, so I was kinda strapped to the bigger motors. Flight time is amazing though, that was a big priority. 5 min of screaming or 8-10 cruising/technical. I might have to try out a setup like yours though. What do you think about the flywoo 1404s? www.banggood.com/FLYWOO-NIN-TINY-NT1404-1404-3750KV-4850KV-2-4S-Brushless-Motor-for-RC-Drone-FPV-Racing-p-1530395.html?ID=6265724&cur_warehouse=CN
@@frasersteen Oh and any frame recommendations for a lightweight rig like that? meh but maybe id just want a toothpick style at that point, really focus on control. what do you think! :D
@@jjj25313 I really like the flexrc frames, I'm running the slim-x 3" but the tomoquads cs3 looks really nice too. As I said I don't like pods. Tbh I'm not a fan of 11xx motors, the 3" size is probably as quiet as a toothpick with the right props. Same idea basically but without the motors made of cheese. As a bonus those motors really run well on "proper" 2.5" tris and 4s 450. More of a weapon than a freestyle rig though and it will give those 1408s a run for their money.
Maybe if u ever decide to make a tinywhoop style quad? So it would make sense to call it the ‘toothbrush’ since the motors r brushed. Idk just an idea🤷🏼♂️
The Tyro Toothpick will come out for sure, Banggood printer press will do it after URUAV version of sailfly, then after all that will come Tyro probably 49 or 69? haha... any bets? ;)
Cost to manufacture. Sounds dumb, but unless they can crank out thousands of examples with 1000% margins, they are going to do something else entirely.
I haven't even bought my first drone yet I'm still soaking in all the info I want to make a 4s or 6s that is nearly indestructible with inspired technology from the elios flyabilities $80,000 tunnel inspection drone I went to school for advanced blueprinting and engineering and already have 1000 ideas drawn out for fpv I need funded I'm in dept from school
@@Kabab servos??? I was talking about the Video Aerial Systems Ion and minion FPV antennas :D 2.5 and 2.25 dB gain antennas. All those Axii's are 2.2 and the TBS are 1.2... Foxeer Lollipop at least matches the Ion.
I don't know whats wrong with me i have a heap of diffrent sets of motors from cheap to overpriced and i personally really like the aud $35 dys 2008 2300/2550kv, They just feel good especially around really tight tracks like mine and especially come to life on 5s with the higher kv.
While I do agree that hardened steel is completely acceptable over titanium to save some money, I strongly disagree that 6065 is a substitute for 7075. I work in aerospace machining and the difference is night and day. 6065 is way way too soft
I didn't say 6065 was good. I just said that's what they use because tht machining is so much easier 😅. In some sense I'd say it's fine because 7075 isn't going to hold up to hard hits either. I kinda prefer cheap bell replacements. Especially when it's so easy to replace.
Hey brother man I learned a heck of a lot from this little video dude how much does the average price of one of your little drones that you build really did appreciate and like the video though it's just interesting
Edit: yeah, the stator is a stack of plates to reduce eddies. The plates must be stamped from flatstock with cutting dies. Either mold and die were confused or it's also possible that they actually sinter the plates for some reason from a powdered metal. I don't know if this would be a benefit or not but it's a common manufacturing technique to keep part mass consistent and reduce waste. The parts that are cnc are likely only the base and top of the bell and the shaft and likely the ring on the bell for strength.
I know the 9x4x4 nmb are best . I also know good bearings in cheeply machined motors don't work well at all. I replace bearing more then I purchase new motors so just what I've learned along the way . Beware of fake branded bearings as well. Genuine nmb is all I'll buy
@@flo-ridafpv5713 I might have had those before. Not sure but I purchased some from an off site sapposedly nsk I think about year ago and they look just like those your talking about. I checked their website( fushi bearings) . They were good. infact Im still am using two in one tmotor F80. 10 for 6 buchs is not bad. It's worth a shot considering I pay 4 to 6 bucks for two real nmb bearings
@@prrcpor here they are bro, on sale for $5 the abec-5 ;) also I buy 24 of gemfan 5146.6 kabab grey for $12 delivered from store wings rc www.aliexpress.com/item/555002513.html
Kabab....I wouldn't be surprised if Banggood is selling the tyro 129 at close to or at cost just so you would visit the site and buy other items. This marketing tactic is used all the time..think of the rotisserie chicken from Costco...🤔
Until somebody is showing you blackbox logs with A/B comparison on smoothness, it's all just internet forum garbage. There are motors that exist with big thick arc magnets, microscopic air gaps, and good construction that are incredibly smooth and fairly affordable, and they're becoming commonplace, yet people still pay more for different motors that aren't those things. I'll still happily pay a lot less for flat magnet big air gap cheap motors for racing, which is mostly what I race, but good solid 2207-2208 motors with all those work brilliantly and are getting cheaper.
What I'm most surprised by is how 2207-8 is still the racing motor size. I would have assumed it would move to a 2305-6 size for the increased efficiency since that seems to always be what's being fought for in a race these days.
@@Kabab The most efficient motors I've ran are 2207 motors. With the right prop combinations, that's actually efficient at pace. I know that light 2306 motors on paper should be optimal, but it comes back to where that particular hump of torque shows up, and on wide open tracks has more to do with how efficient they are toggling between 60-90% throttle, which happens to be the regime that 2207-2208 does well on. Wider stator is incredibly efficient at the 20-60% throttle regime, and that also has the best control feel there.
@@tehllama42 I am personally not a fan of 2306 either however I do recognize that it is more efficient than 20 to size motors on 5-inch. For the improvement in efficiency, I think pretty much any racer can get used to using 2306 and deal with the annoying throttle. But that's just my take on it and I don't race so I'm just guessing
I found this video of a toohpick quad with the caddx turtle v2 that looks like it flies pretty well and takes decent video too. Thought you might want to see: ua-cam.com/video/-ozswA7KOXM/v-deo.html
Damn that Eachine cam looks fantastic EXCEPT for that distortion. It looks absolutely terrible to me. When you sweep from side to side and the center moves at a different rate than the edges.... 👎
There is a lot to be said for having an 12-14 dollar motor rather than a 22-25 dollar motor that breaks almost as easily. Why have an Emax RSII when you can have an Emax ECO that is almost as good, if you are gonna bash around freestyle wise the price difference does matter.
@@noamamir0942 it is unlikely you are going to see a wide range of motors in the "budget" line. It is highly likely that 1700kv and 2400kv are going to dominate but that isnt all that much different than what you see with the higher priced motors as well. I am not afraid to spend money, I have dropped a metric shit ton on drones in the past 3 years. But what I am growing tired of is wasting money. For instance one of my first moments I started to reflect on motors was with the Emax LS spec. Or the "shaft made of butter" worthless motor that bent a shaft on me with the 2nd maiden ever when I barely tapped the ground with a flat pancake. Shaft bent so badly that the bell contacted wires and broke a phase of the motor. I kissed that trend of aluminum bells with pressed in steel shafts good bye. Then came the RSII. I was glad to see the hollow shafts return. But guess what? The bearings just are not durable and the motors quickly wind up with bent shafts and bearings that sound like shattered glass/sand. Never again. Along come the Eco motors and you know what? They perform well enough that I just dont give two shits about the bells/shafts and bearings because they are 12 bucks which is less than the replacement costs for some makes bells. 1700kv Eco on 4s and 6inches can give you a nice long range cruiser if you choose not to throw 6s at it. The trend towards a more affordable motor is a good thing in my mind. I would love to see a 2306 2000-2200kv motor in the 13-15 dollar range. But 1700kv to 2400kv is likely to be all we get for a long time.
@@dividingbyzerofpv6748 yea you are pretty right, pretty much every motor over 12$ with a solid hollow shaft and 9mm bearing will have the same durability, although in ideal situations a higher end motor should last longer preforming optimally, mainly cause of bearing quality, in hard crashes its really hard to say if a pricey motor is better and those are the main concern, the motors of our quads often break before they wear out. I think range motors are the sweet spot, for example the rcinpower 2306 motor which I bought for 17$ has the best of the best materials and build quality, no need to buy a motor above 20$ unless you want to support some local brand such as rotor riot and such instead of china, it may be impossible for them to compete those prices. china always win at prices and thats pretty bad for any small developer who actually wants to sustain himself doing fpv
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Table of Contents:
04:36 - Next motor development?
05:02 - Copy problem and development
07:05 - $129 7" quad with GPS inclued
10:33 - DAL 7056
11:35 - a BUNCH of new antennas
14:56 - New FPV camera from Eachine
16:25 - FPV camera comparisons
18:09 - Nano FPV cam comparisons
19:13 - HQ 3x2 prop
20:32 - HQ 65mm (finally)
23:11 - 76mm Tello prop
25:37 - Toothpick Travel Charger
26:51 - Diatone Toothpick Colab
29:01 - New type of goggle strap?
▼ Things in this video:
2508 (awesome 6", great 7"): bit.ly/2VkLFik
2806.5 (awesome 7"): bit.ly/2OafeF6
$129 7" quad: bit.ly/2yiI3nS
DAL 7056: bit.ly/2GwXdKQ
Lumenier Axii 2 antennas: bit.ly/2Zj4sNO
Eachine Bat FPV cam: bit.ly/2Zeie4c
Nano 2 cam: bit.ly/2Yn5Em8
Racer nano cam: bit.ly/2Zez4jj
Whoop AIO cam: bit.ly/2YjwZBy
Whoop standalone cam: bit.ly/2YBkoy1
HQ 3x3: bit.ly/313IoqL
HQ 3x2: Not available yet
HQ 65mm: Not available yet
New Gemfan 65mm: bit.ly/2GxLJH7
Tello Prop 1: bit.ly/2SHzUCO
Tello Prop 2: bit.ly/313IE9d
Tello Prop 3: bit.ly/3130h9w
1.4mm drill: bit.ly/2MtHZdx
Travel charger: bit.ly/2Zfbgfq
XT30 Balance board: bit.ly/2Yoj3GD
Diatone Toothpick 2" 2S: bit.ly/2XWAvpd
Diatone Toothpick 2" 3S: bit.ly/2XH4zpC
Diatone Toothpick 3": bit.ly/32kA8V1
Diatone's new 16x16 stack: bit.ly/2XWCw4L
New Goggle strap type: bit.ly/2OjYgE5
2508 motor review: bit.ly/310y8Qo
2608.5 motor review: bit.ly/30XMeSr
A toothbrush I'm gonna review when it's back in stock:
bit.ly/2K5ZoG8
▼ COUPON code spreadsheet link:
bit.ly/2JWLBBE
Some of these codes are made exclusively for my channel and can't be found anywhere else.
▼Join my FB group for more discussion: Kabab FPV
facebook.com/groups/379155946182689/
▼ The 5" quad setup:
-Hyperlite Glide Floss (will be re-released soon)
-Motor 1750kv/ESC combo: bit.ly/2XAEHXH
-WaFL’s Cap Cap: bit.ly/2GUpXxO
-Battery: bit.ly/2XXjbwU
-FC: bit.ly/2XRc8G8
-FPV Cam: bit.ly/2Q7LfL7
-Vtx: bit.ly/2HsrASs
-ND GoPro Mount 30deg: bit.ly/2WC15zc
-ND Filter (if used): bit.ly/2WEmQ1j
- My favorite battery: bit.ly/2xWjYTJ
-An annoying 643g AUW on this quad
▼Notable motors:
-Xing 2306: bit.ly/30uYo4Q
-Xing 2208: bit.ly/2y3te8R
-FANTASTIC 6" motor: bit.ly/2LqghOZ
▼ 5" Sub $200 build that's still good
-Frame: goo.gl/EpXQhZ
-FC/4in1 Stack: goo.gl/HprVbj
-Motors: bit.ly/30uYo4Q
-Props: goo.gl/ZnzY2y
-Props: goo.gl/VMBiQh
-FPV Cam: goo.gl/FDJhYw
-Vtx: goo.gl/JNVDMn
-Starter goggles: goo.gl/GvJUkT
-Batt pad material: bit.ly/2QGWhYb
▼ If you want to solder better:
-Fantastic solder: amzn.to/2P5QM2W
-Fantastic iron: goo.gl/DqBipa
▼ Tips?
-PayPal: www.paypal.me/kababfpv
-Bitcoin: 1E4XZXoD4rS6MYWVWuenY7Kw2M1YgyNpoQ
-Nano: xrb_1188ek5bd7tb9kw67asnp9o65byuoaxbtpxuznx1ribf75x78awywmakj55f
-ETH: 0xD067F93811f2eC31CB1928901002dfdf9A492EF5
-LTC: La2KWYAjp4VT2Lq2M76pbjzXWvRyjpfCtG
-Tesla Referal code: ts.la/bob40889
Please use my referral code if you're gonna buy a Tesla. You get some free stuff when you do and I get better status with Tesla.
I really like those toothpick props!!! The toothpick is hands down my favorite size fpv drone out!!!!! I LOVE IT!!! It looks so fun 2 fly!!! Im really sad my jeep just blew the engine and now my money is going towards a crapy car and not a toothpick and some new gear!!!! I'll get one soon i hope!!!!! My fingers are crossed on the Nick Burns giveaway!!!! Man i wish i could win that sweet drone!!! Its not the best toothpick out but its a good one!!!! I know i probably will not win. But i love knowing that there is a chance!!!!! Man that gets me pumped!!! Hope your having a good weekend!!!! Fly a drone for me because im working 9am till midnight all weekend!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great Channel!!
Hey bob, as a electronics engineer, a 90 degree connector introduces a mere 0.2dB of attenuation, which means 95.5% of the power still passes through it. So it is completely inconsequential losses in this application
reference : menacerc.co.uk/sma-adaptors-signal-loss-or-not
Agreed
Motor Madness also keep in mind that range is not in linear proportion to power out put. It’s the inverse square law. 16x the power= only 4x the range. This means that a small change in power means a practically undetectable change in range. Correct me if I’m wrong
a GOOD 90° connector has nominal
I'm still waiting for the Tyro1, a $1 paper plane where the instructions on how/where to fold it are printed on the piece of paper you have to fold :)
30 minutes of great information! Thanks for your time, Bob! 🤘
I still think your original iteration of the toothpick - the super light 1s, safe park ripper is the sweet spot. Get it under 30g, including battery.
For me its a 2s 75gram toothpic, its powerful and fun enough to barely get my 5" out
Love the density of information on these videos. Thank you, very helpful.
Antenna stuff - have you seen Painless360's Antenna Lab videos? He worked with MenaceRC and their high end RF equipment to test various theories regarding antennas; mounting in TPU, bending the wire, using extension cables/adapters, covering with heatshrink etc. - ua-cam.com/users/results?search_query=painless360+antenna+lab
I was going to send him the same exact thing! Good call
Fantastic content, Bob! Thanks a lot for all the tips! 😃
Dead. 😂
Telling the Chinese not to clone a bearing size. Too funny.
The larger bearings must affect the construction of the stator? That would change the operating dynamics of the motor in my mind.
Needs to be re engineered
Well as luck would have it, I was rewinding some 24 turn emax rs 2306 as I watched your video. A larger upper bearing displaces stator volume? And the stator has fixed outer dimensions. So the stator would be have less room for turns/ wire. I guess my point being that re-engineering the stator for larger bearings could really affect power characteristics as well.
I know....I’m way down the rabbit hole!
Happy flying:-)
The tyro 129 is a great drone for it's price. It is amazing that they can even make profit of this drone.
If you get one that works
So far my only complaint about the toothpick (the original 1s version with the Hyperlite motors, whoop camera, etc) is that it's super sensitive to the props getting dinged up or bent. If they get a tiny bit out of whack it flies really poorly. So if there are more durable props coming out that'll be huge.
Thanks for the information. I like that Diatone micro you collaborated on. I will likely add it to my fleet when it is ready :)
It's weird you could almost attribute the smoothness of that 12mm bearing to the fact that it may hold on to more inertia in 0- low throttle situations.
You then have to take into account ESC braking countering this effect, its all very interesting.
You could almost draw comparisons with automotive flywheels - different weights alter RPM loss between gear shifts but provide different throttle responses.
Lighter flywheels loose more RPM between gear shifts but have better response from 0 throttle.
Heavier flywheels loose less RPM between gear shifts but have less response from 0 throttle.
You probably already knew this hahaha
Love you're videos man many thanks
Ibcrazy showed what little effect SMA connectors and coax extensions have on signal strength/quality. The only problem with the right angle connectors IMO is that it is 2 halves that are press fit together which means they can fall apart when you least want it to. But it can be remedied by soldering the seam of press fit. Alex also shows that in one of his vids.
It was very helpful. I will be looking forward to release in the toothpick !
I wish i had a dentist who talked to me about fpv while I was in the chair. Damn, I would pay extra for that service.
Definitely have my eyes on your collab with diatone !
Bob, I noticed the Diatone toothpick you were holding had a broken motor stem, which seems to be a common problem with the toothpick "class" from what I've heard. I've flown a couple toothpick class quads that other local guys have, but have been holding off on getting one myself due to durability concerns - I do tend to fly somewhat aggressively. Do you know if anyone has looked into using a titanium motor shaft to increase durability?
I'm working on it. New wave of motors coming in about a month. It doesn't happen very often but running into a brick wall at full speed will do that sometimes...
Tello is the name of DJI's 8.5mm brushed hd drone. I'm guessing that those 76mm props knock offs made for it,that's why they are only made for 1mm shafts. I definitely think your right about the bigger bearings being the reason a motor is smoother, also I'd be willing to bet that bigger bearings will be much more durable and will run smoothly longer as well.they will wear out slower because there will be less strain due to the size.
Thanks for tip on those BH Avengers. Snagged a set. Huge improvement over a 2208.
I watched whole video, as always lots of interesting stuff! Good content, thank You!
Right angle joints affecting signal performance makes sense as you are sending very delicate analogue signals down a conductor which suddenly meets a dead end, which will cause some signal to reflect.
It’s the same reason why you never see right angles on PCB traces.
However if you don’t notice a difference, then there’s really no reason to give up your convenience.
I missed these kind of videos!
The free space on the esc is cooling area therefore they can run cheaper fets on higher watts
can't wait for those MB1103 motors to be available!
Yes! I've been waiting for this info. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Bob for the info. Am I correct in saying that eachine doesn't actually manufacturer any of it's products. They just go around and find "good" products and brand them eachine and sell them on banggood.
Can't wait for the release of your toothpick! I really hope diatones high quality combined with your genius makes for a good flyer!
I appreciate all the time you put into these videos!
Brian
Yeah while back I learned that the eachine does not actually manufacture anything
Hrm... The ToolkitRC M8 charger appears pretty flawed. Hope the M6 isn't as screwed up.
solid core hollow. big bearing adds a lot of weight
Tbs triumph pro, gives me so clean video. Thank you for the information😎😋
Why does the image of the Bat look stretched vertically? The mountain/hill in the pool view and the hedge at the patio view.
Because it's a little wider aspect ratio that. The others. Random China sensors...
Yeah those mamba motors are good, shaft is missing because c clip on top really nice😂
3:30 dude you got the best inverted yaw ever!! Lol I think I said that on another video too 🙏🙌
If only FPV Goggles companies could also learned from motors companies
So are there any other toothpicks coming from you besides the diatone???
Yeah couple more
@@Kabab now these are what I'm keenly awaiting!
Look forward to finding out what spec these will be.
Great Flying & Great Channel!!!
👍😀👍
Do you like flying the 2 or 3" version of the diatone toothpick better?
I like the 3" better but it's a lot more powerful so it can break much easier if you crash hard.
Image distortion in Falkor micro is so strong that it was barely flyable for me. Have these exchanged for a Ratel 1.66, the image distortion is now gone and it flies great. The Ratel 2.1 has a stronger image distortion with the same FOV, which did you use in the comparison video?
I only use the 1.6mm or whatever the shorter lens on the Ratel is. The other one is awful
Since you are always having a hard time finding somewhere to fly. I used to live in LA and I had that same problem until I found the Van Nuys RC air field. It was always a blast flying there. You should try it out some time. The drone section is the big field on the south end. Just fair warning to avoid the helipads so yah don't upset the heli freinds ^_^
They're actually making that flying field illegal very soon because it's so close to an airport
@@Kabab Whaaaaa >< But it has always been there. Frikin people.
@@bumbleboltfpv3707 it has literally been there for over 50 years and there has not been a single issue. But now, it's dangerous apparently
Hey Kabab, saw your diatone collaboration ultralight coming out - congrats. Tell me tho why wouldn’t you rotate the boards 45deg for improved placement and compact build? Whoops been doing that forever! Cheers mate
working on it and will have a video about it up this weekend probably
I was literally walking out the door to fly a couple packs and had to check tou post,yep interesting...so I will cje k it out when done ripping paks,I actually built a 4"floss style w/2206 2300kv motors and it is a beast with long flite times on 850 s,on 1300 it's a.blast can get almost 10minuye cruise,be back to finish qatchong,jabe a great day😊
The large bearing probably won't hurt power by way of theory. I don't remember core mass actually being a factor. I know magnetic permeability is a factor and permanence is probably a problem for efficiency. But the volume theory doesn't work based on mass as for as I know. I think it has more to do with cylinder area. No need to factor in pi because it's constant, unless you want to use actual units not just make your own unit. Stator volume is really a misnomer because nobody squares the diameter or radius when they talk about the volume theory... Anyway as for the bearings it will limit the winding volume which will mean higher kv and/or limited amp due to smaller wire diameter. This might mean you're looking at 3s and 4s motors or atleast make 6s motors really difficult to make in 22mm stators and make 24mm stators more popular.
HGLRC came out with a new cam also that's around the same price may be the same as Eachine..
Can't wait for the ToothBrush Review 😁😂
More of these types of vids!
A mold doesn't have to be made to test larger bearings. I don't imagine it would be all that expensive to have someone CNC a set of motor cores sized to fit some existing bells. Someone would just have to take the time to wind the motor by hand.
I have no idea if the experiment would be worth the effort, though!
Yep working on it
I been flying the tello prop really wished they came in the 1.5 shaft size. Question I have is do the tello props fly better than the new hq t3x2's?
They are very different props. The Tello is a lower load prop while the 3x2 is more of everything and requires more motor than 1103
the right angle adapter is a loss, but the difference is nothing that you or I would notice at the distances we fly. I don't understand why people put anything other than a dipole on a toothpick. dipole works perfectly fine for me, but i also rarely fly with more than myself, at most 2 other people. I've got that $35 runcam nano, it sucks.
Not sure, but I wanna say the FPV AF 2507 has a pretty beefy size bearing
I believe those are 9mm bearings
Been wondering for a while why no light weight 1204 size motors
Bought 4 emax eco 2207, and 2 of the 4 had noisy bearings out of the box.
You mentioned that the HQ prop had awful balance. Could you please recommend something decent for 2.5 inchers? I have bad experience with genfans and hqs x3 bladed props - they seem to be poory balanced and a kwad behaves like a boat at mid throttle regardless of pids and filters. King Kongs x4 have no this problem, but they bend too easily
The new one is good. The others were prototypes
The 90 degree on antennas create a 14% loss in reception if I remember correctly. I believe I learned that from a painless 360 video.
Nah it's neglible man truth per Hugo and Alex grieve
Is it, you know, a balls thing?
I'm talking about the bearings :) A larger bearing will have more balls than a smaller bearing of the same distance between inner & outer diameters. I'm guessing more points of contact evenly distributed will keep its alignment better.
Bigger balls. Not more 😉
@KababFPV Yes if the inner diameter of the bearing stays small whilst the outer diameter & width are bigger.
Will the Emax eco 2306 1700kv work with a 7 inch prop? I know it is great with a 6 inch prop and 4s!
It'll work. Just not very well
Would you say the gtb229(2s) or gtb239(3s) is the best choice for a toothpick? This seems like a better choice than the other stuff out there. Red devil bad camera, sailfly-x only 25mw vtx..
I personally like the three inch 3s version but it is very powerful and very fast so if you crash a lot it will break much easier
@@Kabab How quiet is the 3inch? That's the main thing I'm going for. Of course performance shouldn't be bad either, but it seems these 2.5inch toothpicks are what I'm looking for.
Btw.... finally picked up a Sonic Care electric toothbrush...lol
Speaking of eco motors have you by any chance had your hands on the iflight xing eco motors? Wondering how they are
On the way
@@Kabab awesome. Looking forward to seeing what's up with them. Ready to ditch these samguk 2207s.
okay i bought 4 1800 kv kabab style when i should have bought more ...you know were i can find one ....and love when you do these i think i like looking at motors ....
I've got four if you really need
@@Kabab omg yes i have the money on the first i only need one but whatever is easier for you i will friend request on FB or how i give information
@@NOIZYB message me on FB. For $50 I'll send you all four. They have no accidents on them but they do have a bit of annoying sand in them. This set is not really that used.
@@Kabab done thank you
Bearings, arguably we should be using roller bearings or needle bearings. BB type bearings are really designed for low to zero load scenarios. Other bearing types are much better at load bearing. I've had a hunt but I can't find any suitable bearing small enough.
I'm a big fan of 3s 3", still think the rcx 1304-5000kv is the best micro motor around. I am not a fan of the pod design though, I take your point about the cog but I also need something that doesn't get decapitated when scraggle happens. I've broken a whoop board from stressing it and lost an rx over a couple of attempts with pods recently.
Check out the new emax and xing 1408 T style prop mount motors.
@@jjj25313 meh, it's too heavy and noisy for what I want'. Even if the motors weighed the same I'd still need a 650 4s at minimum vs the 450 3s I run on my 1304s. They'll never compete in speed runs but the 1304s have enough power and huge amounts more control.
@@frasersteen I see. More Noisey? I do notice that. I feel like the emax 1306rs were smoother.
I already had a 1407 build, but I do really like using the t style props and shedding that extra 3.5mm of shaft/locknut off of it. makes for a wicked fast 3 inch, that still has some good control.
It may seem silly, but "civilians" are blown away when such a small toy punches out like that thing does. It definitely makes people interested in the hobby XD.
I already had a few geprc sparrow 4mm bottom plates and 500/850 4s batteries, so I was kinda strapped to the bigger motors. Flight time is amazing though, that was a big priority. 5 min of screaming or 8-10 cruising/technical.
I might have to try out a setup like yours though.
What do you think about the flywoo 1404s?
www.banggood.com/FLYWOO-NIN-TINY-NT1404-1404-3750KV-4850KV-2-4S-Brushless-Motor-for-RC-Drone-FPV-Racing-p-1530395.html?ID=6265724&cur_warehouse=CN
@@frasersteen Oh and any frame recommendations for a lightweight rig like that? meh but maybe id just want a toothpick style at that point, really focus on control.
what do you think!
:D
@@jjj25313 I really like the flexrc frames, I'm running the slim-x 3" but the tomoquads cs3 looks really nice too. As I said I don't like pods. Tbh I'm not a fan of 11xx motors, the 3" size is probably as quiet as a toothpick with the right props. Same idea basically but without the motors made of cheese. As a bonus those motors really run well on "proper" 2.5" tris and 4s 450. More of a weapon than a freestyle rig though and it will give those 1408s a run for their money.
Hey bob what do you think of the name toothbrush?
I dunno what to use it for 🤷🏻♂️
Maybe if u ever decide to make a tinywhoop style quad? So it would make sense to call it the ‘toothbrush’ since the motors r brushed. Idk just an idea🤷🏼♂️
The Tyro Toothpick will come out for sure, Banggood printer press will do it after URUAV version of sailfly, then after all that will come Tyro probably 49 or 69? haha... any bets? ;)
😂 $15 toothpick
Heya kabab, do you know what happen to the zmx motors company? Can't find the website anymore
Long gone bro, had the finx23 and finx 30s sold em cuz no spares anymore
Yeah I'm not sure either
Can't they just make stator with CNC ? If they make like 10 prototypes it would be possible and it wouldn't cost anywhere near 10k
Cost to manufacture. Sounds dumb, but unless they can crank out thousands of examples with 1000% margins, they are going to do something else entirely.
What mic do you use? 😀
I just use my phone. One plus 6. Nothing special. I'm sitting behind the phone too.
I haven't even bought my first drone yet I'm still soaking in all the info I want to make a 4s or 6s that is nearly indestructible with inspired technology from the elios flyabilities $80,000 tunnel inspection drone I went to school for advanced blueprinting and engineering and already have 1000 ideas drawn out for fpv I need funded I'm in dept from school
It's so much fun to think about all this stuff.
Why'd eachine call it the bat? Aren't they almost blind?
😂
VAS Ion and Minion have the best specs. I don't know why anyone messes with the others.
Ya I've seen those. I just really hate servos
@@Kabab servos??? I was talking about the Video Aerial Systems Ion and minion FPV antennas :D 2.5 and 2.25 dB gain antennas. All those Axii's are 2.2 and the TBS are 1.2... Foxeer Lollipop at least matches the Ion.
@@pkvillager ah. Thought this comment was on a different video. Ya I see now
Also kabab please test Antennen Freund antennas. Basicly the best antennas in the world handmade in Germany :)
Better than trueRC?
I don't know whats wrong with me i have a heap of diffrent sets of motors from cheap to overpriced and i personally really like the aud $35 dys 2008 2300/2550kv, They just feel good especially around really tight tracks like mine and especially come to life on 5s with the higher kv.
Wow!! Thanks for sharing good information!!😀👍 and your voice is really cool! My friend! 😆🤩👍
While I do agree that hardened steel is completely acceptable over titanium to save some money, I strongly disagree that 6065 is a substitute for 7075. I work in aerospace machining and the difference is night and day. 6065 is way way too soft
I didn't say 6065 was good. I just said that's what they use because tht machining is so much easier 😅. In some sense I'd say it's fine because 7075 isn't going to hold up to hard hits either. I kinda prefer cheap bell replacements. Especially when it's so easy to replace.
Hey brother man I learned a heck of a lot from this little video dude how much does the average price of one of your little drones that you build really did appreciate and like the video though it's just interesting
The little ones range from about $80 to $150 or so. They're not so expensive.
@@Kabab one more question what's the range on those
what do they mean by mold!? in a 99% CNC manufacturer motor? Do they mean the die cut mold to get the laminated sheet of steel for the rotor?
Edit: yeah, the stator is a stack of plates to reduce eddies. The plates must be stamped from flatstock with cutting dies. Either mold and die were confused or it's also possible that they actually sinter the plates for some reason from a powdered metal. I don't know if this would be a benefit or not but it's a common manufacturing technique to keep part mass consistent and reduce waste. The parts that are cnc are likely only the base and top of the bell and the shaft and likely the ring on the bell for strength.
daniel dimitri instead of investing in making a die, they could laser cut the stator stack for prototyping that motor.
Yep working on it for testing at least
Love these vids
I know the 9x4x4 nmb are best . I also know good bearings in cheeply machined motors don't work well at all. I replace bearing more then I purchase new motors so just what I've learned along the way . Beware of fake branded bearings as well. Genuine nmb is all I'll buy
Save some money bro, look up specs on Fushi bearings on aliexpress been using the 9x4s for over year they are excellent... $6 for 10 ;) YW
@@flo-ridafpv5713 cool I'll definitely Check them out. 10 for 6 bucks is a good deal.
@@prrcpor yea try em, I've had nmb they all make noise after a few good hits anyway
@@flo-ridafpv5713 I might have had those before. Not sure but I purchased some from an off site sapposedly nsk I think about year ago and they look just like those your talking about. I checked their website( fushi bearings) .
They were good. infact Im still am using two in one tmotor F80. 10 for 6 buchs is not bad. It's worth a shot considering I pay 4 to 6 bucks for two real nmb bearings
@@prrcpor here they are bro, on sale for $5 the abec-5 ;) also I buy 24 of gemfan 5146.6 kabab grey for $12 delivered from store wings rc www.aliexpress.com/item/555002513.html
I do know and that is true. 90 degree connector hinders performance. I will make a video on this.
Didn't realise there is lawn the other side of the pool. Can't fly there?
It's really small
Great vid
Kabab....I wouldn't be surprised if Banggood is selling the tyro 129 at close to or at cost just so you would visit the site and buy other items. This marketing tactic is used all the time..think of the rotisserie chicken from Costco...🤔
Until somebody is showing you blackbox logs with A/B comparison on smoothness, it's all just internet forum garbage. There are motors that exist with big thick arc magnets, microscopic air gaps, and good construction that are incredibly smooth and fairly affordable, and they're becoming commonplace, yet people still pay more for different motors that aren't those things. I'll still happily pay a lot less for flat magnet big air gap cheap motors for racing, which is mostly what I race, but good solid 2207-2208 motors with all those work brilliantly and are getting cheaper.
What I'm most surprised by is how 2207-8 is still the racing motor size. I would have assumed it would move to a 2305-6 size for the increased efficiency since that seems to always be what's being fought for in a race these days.
@@Kabab The most efficient motors I've ran are 2207 motors. With the right prop combinations, that's actually efficient at pace. I know that light 2306 motors on paper should be optimal, but it comes back to where that particular hump of torque shows up, and on wide open tracks has more to do with how efficient they are toggling between 60-90% throttle, which happens to be the regime that 2207-2208 does well on.
Wider stator is incredibly efficient at the 20-60% throttle regime, and that also has the best control feel there.
@@tehllama42 I am personally not a fan of 2306 either however I do recognize that it is more efficient than 20 to size motors on 5-inch. For the improvement in efficiency, I think pretty much any racer can get used to using 2306 and deal with the annoying throttle. But that's just my take on it and I don't race so I'm just guessing
360p?
It's still processing. It'll go up to 4k in 10 min probably
@@Kabab oh okay, cool. Good info btw. Thanks
I found this video of a toohpick quad with the caddx turtle v2 that looks like it flies pretty well and takes decent video too. Thought you might want to see:
ua-cam.com/video/-ozswA7KOXM/v-deo.html
Yeah I've seen it. It flies but not as well as without the HD weight
Damn that Eachine cam looks fantastic EXCEPT for that distortion. It looks absolutely terrible to me. When you sweep from side to side and the center moves at a different rate than the edges.... 👎
I've seen much much worse. I'm gonna try other lenses on it if I use it on a quad
KababFPV yeah it’s not the worst I’ve seen but I am definitely sensitive to that in an fpv cam
There is a lot to be said for having an 12-14 dollar motor rather than a 22-25 dollar motor that breaks almost as easily. Why have an Emax RSII when you can have an Emax ECO that is almost as good, if you are gonna bash around freestyle wise the price difference does matter.
Not really true but we're coming closer to that, also the main problem with the emax eco is that there are only low kv options for 4s and 6s
@@noamamir0942 it is unlikely you are going to see a wide range of motors in the "budget" line. It is highly likely that 1700kv and 2400kv are going to dominate but that isnt all that much different than what you see with the higher priced motors as well.
I am not afraid to spend money, I have dropped a metric shit ton on drones in the past 3 years.
But what I am growing tired of is wasting money. For instance one of my first moments I started to reflect on motors was with the Emax LS spec. Or the "shaft made of butter" worthless motor that bent a shaft on me with the 2nd maiden ever when I barely tapped the ground with a flat pancake. Shaft bent so badly that the bell contacted wires and broke a phase of the motor.
I kissed that trend of aluminum bells with pressed in steel shafts good bye.
Then came the RSII. I was glad to see the hollow shafts return. But guess what? The bearings just are not durable and the motors quickly wind up with bent shafts and bearings that sound like shattered glass/sand.
Never again.
Along come the Eco motors and you know what? They perform well enough that I just dont give two shits about the bells/shafts and bearings because they are 12 bucks which is less than the replacement costs for some makes bells.
1700kv Eco on 4s and 6inches can give you a nice long range cruiser if you choose not to throw 6s at it.
The trend towards a more affordable motor is a good thing in my mind.
I would love to see a 2306 2000-2200kv motor in the 13-15 dollar range. But 1700kv to 2400kv is likely to be all we get for a long time.
@@dividingbyzerofpv6748 yea you are pretty right, pretty much every motor over 12$ with a solid hollow shaft and 9mm bearing will have the same durability, although in ideal situations a higher end motor should last longer preforming optimally, mainly cause of bearing quality, in hard crashes its really hard to say if a pricey motor is better and those are the main concern, the motors of our quads often break before they wear out.
I think range motors are the sweet spot, for example the rcinpower 2306 motor which I bought for 17$ has the best of the best materials and build quality, no need to buy a motor above 20$ unless you want to support some local brand such as rotor riot and such instead of china, it may be impossible for them to compete those prices. china always win at prices and thats pretty bad for any small developer who actually wants to sustain himself doing fpv
Ahaha I also bought the FALKOR because of videos but in the goggles looks like a coloured mess.
Yep. Falkor is one of the worst small CMOS cameras I've seen in a long time
Compared to the DAL7056 every other 7" prop is just crap!
Maybe on your quad. On mine neither is very good.
Don’t produce the motor and let them copy and spend the money so you can test it and then you can improve on your motor :)
Right that's what I usually do
lol
second :Ç
I HATE THIS HOBBY! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
What? Why? XD😂😂
But i love flying 🤣 hahaha
Damn... Firstn't. 😐
First :)