Seeing and reading up on this issue, I ordered the Hitchcock replacement relays all the way from the UK to Burma. Today when I replaced both of them, I noticed that they were packed in lashings of what I suppose is dielectric grease. The stock relays are 20 amps. The HMC ones are 30/40. Bike started a bit snappier and lost its lag.
As an update, I just had the idea to check on the Harley sites for stalling at idle. Seems they are suffering from the same problem and no one seems to have a clear answer over there either.
I recently purchased an abused Himmie that I've spent way more money on than I should or would have had it not been purchased by my son from a DIY enthusiast who really didn't have a clue. I bought it from my boy to help him financially but told him it's still his to ride whenever he wants. it's a great little bike but I fear the clutch is next since although not slipping and with a new cable I'm almost at the end of adjustment and the previous owner told my boy he had replaced it ?? any ideas Himmie fans. ?
Thanks for all the tips my friend. I actually just ordered the upgraded relays yesterday from hitchcocks, and will replace them asap. I'm virtually certain that the relays were what was causing my sporadic stalling issues.
My himmy was the same, stalling cold and in traffic. It did it from the time I bought it new in 2021. I went to an automotive store and bought two 30 amp relays and replaced the old 20 amp relays under the seat. I remember that I was in the city when I did the swap out and the bike tried to stall twice but recovered at about 800 rpm. So it is now hiccuping as On Two Wheels Ben calls it. As far as the TPS voltage goes, I found mine at 0.6v and boosted it up to 0.68v and honestly I saw no improvement in the stalling issue. My next step will be to remove the EVAP system as Ben suggests in order to eliminate the hiccups as he calls them. It seems that the relay change out gets you from dying to hiccuping and the root cause seems to be eliminated by removing the EVAP system. These environmental systems are mandated by government bureaucrats who know nothing about engineering and the corporations respond the best they can by damaging performance, efficiency, fuel economy and life of the vehicle. We saw this in the 1980's cars in the US. It took a decade for US companies to begin to produce good vehicles again. I suggest that efficiency and long engine life produces less damage to the environment because the longer the vehicle lasts, the less mining and polluting we have to do to replace them. Just a little common sense. Anyhow, I am bringing the bike to the dealership to get the firmware updated to the new Scram CPU mapping. Pub Runner in Australia had it done and he said the change was fantastic performance. If that does not work out I will install the FuelX CPU and keep following Ben's advice.
Wouldn't it stall due to the air cooling? Instead of fluid? That why in Florida old school Harleys have to wait on the side of the road because they're over heating
My BS4 Himalayan would stall after I had been on the highway for a while in 5th gear and when I slow down to get ready to stop, if I put it in neutral it tends to lose engine power and stall.
Yep...mine was doing the exact same thing. Since I re-seated the relays and had the throttle position sensor slightly adjusted, I have not stalled once in over 2000 miles. Even on cold starts. I'm absolutely certain the random cut-out stalls were caused by the fuel pump cutting out due to the faulty relay connection.
Check the actual spade connectors in the relay block they aren't retained all that well and vibrate out of the housing or can be pushed out when you plug the relays in. I melted one in the first 300 miles, they are under rated for their duty. Fit higher current ones. Then.... Remove the evap cannister, that will smooth out the idle and warm stalling And Make sure the tank vent pipe (the right hand one with the clip) is clear, if that gets pinched you will gave all sorts of strange running and interesting stalling and loss of power events
I haven't had a stall since re-seating the relays...so I think that was probably the cause of my random stalls. As far as cold start stalls, since I had the Throttle Position sensor adjusted, I've had not stalls there either (and it idles better). I did check the hose out of the tank for kinks, and it's good....but I opted not to remove the evap cannister just yet.
@@On2Feet fair enough, I find that evap vent line kinks very easily when refitting the tank, it can be a real pain. Glad the issues have gone away , hopefully it was just the relays
I think on the new 21 US/North American model, this no longer works. Regardless, it eventually did go off, and has been off for the past 8 months...so I guess I don't need to worry about it for now. :-)
@@On2Feet On the Indian domestic models we have in Burma we turn on key then hold the 2 mode/select buttons down for 10 seconds and the wrench symbol goes away...will relight in 5000km. Supposed to be done each time oil is changed.
I don't....but I have been wondering that exact thing myself as I see different recommendations in different videos. I might just use my multimeter to find out.
@@On2Feet Thanks for the reply. Mine was 0.65v from the factory. Changed it to 0.68v but still having starting issues. Will not idle without stalling. Bi-starter "choke" results in immediate stalling.
@@On2Feet I have not. When I increased my TPS voltage, it seems to idle a bit higher now. Somewhere around 1400 rpm. I'm trying to get to 300 miles as soon as I can, so I can check my valve clearances and see if they are way off.
Is there any way I could contact you? An email to reach out, or a WhatsApp number? I would like to ask you some questions. My Himalayan is really beat down, and the dealership I got it from sucks and doesn’t know much of anything about the bike. You and two wheel Ben are my main sources of information. You do great work. Thank you.
I was pretty much sure you were from Flagstaff. The tip off was the pine trees in the back ground and your statement of being a climate scientist. The ultimate causes of the poor running condition of the Himalayan is that it is a poor use of lean burn tech. This was very apparent in cars made during the seventies. The real cure would be a new control module based on something like the raspberry pi. with a custom fuel map. Head on over to your universities computer department. The relays are a real source of trouble because R. E. made them cheap. You are wrong about the dielectric grease. The socket that they go in does not have enough spring tension to force out the excess grease. Most of the electrical connections are cheap in that they lack proper water protection, so be careful when you wash it. A quick trip out to my own Himalayan showed me that the oxygen sensor had only two wires meaning that the whole thing was yesterdays fuel injection tech. Maybe I am wrong as it was hard to see in there.
Ha ha...yep...I'm a Flagstaffer (Flagstaffian?)...guilty as charged. For me, what remedied all of my stalling problems was two simple things: I replaced the 2 relays with better ones from Hitchcock's, and I had the Throttle Position Sensor voltage adjusted at my dealership. I have not had a single cold-start stall or random cut-out stall since.
Seeing and reading up on this issue, I ordered the Hitchcock replacement relays all the way from the UK to Burma. Today when I replaced both of them, I noticed that they were packed in lashings of what I suppose is dielectric grease. The stock relays are 20 amps. The HMC ones are 30/40. Bike started a bit snappier and lost its lag.
As an update, I just had the idea to check on the Harley sites for stalling at idle. Seems they are suffering from the same problem and no one seems to have a clear answer over there either.
I recently purchased an abused Himmie that I've spent way more money on than I should or would have had it not been purchased by my son from a DIY enthusiast who really didn't have a clue. I bought it from my boy to help him financially but told him it's still his to ride whenever he wants. it's a great little bike but I fear the clutch is next since although not slipping and with a new cable I'm almost at the end of adjustment and the previous owner told my boy he had replaced it ?? any ideas Himmie fans. ?
YES... 25 instead of 20 on the relays and the TPS if you have an irratic idle.. I have the same issue.. on the TPS go for 0.57
its also advisable to change a higher ampere relay..either 25 or 30 .The stock comes with 20 amps .its available with Hitchcock motorcycles , UK
Thanks for all the tips my friend. I actually just ordered the upgraded relays yesterday from hitchcocks, and will replace them asap. I'm virtually certain that the relays were what was causing my sporadic stalling issues.
My himmy was the same, stalling cold and in traffic. It did it from the time I bought it new in 2021. I went to an automotive store and bought two 30 amp relays and replaced the old 20 amp relays under the seat. I remember that I was in the city when I did the swap out and the bike tried to stall twice but recovered at about 800 rpm. So it is now hiccuping as On Two Wheels Ben calls it. As far as the TPS voltage goes, I found mine at 0.6v and boosted it up to 0.68v and honestly I saw no improvement in the stalling issue. My next step will be to remove the EVAP system as Ben suggests in order to eliminate the hiccups as he calls them. It seems that the relay change out gets you from dying to hiccuping and the root cause seems to be eliminated by removing the EVAP system. These environmental systems are mandated by government bureaucrats who know nothing about engineering and the corporations respond the best they can by damaging performance, efficiency, fuel economy and life of the vehicle. We saw this in the 1980's cars in the US. It took a decade for US companies to begin to produce good vehicles again. I suggest that efficiency and long engine life produces less damage to the environment because the longer the vehicle lasts, the less mining and polluting we have to do to replace them. Just a little common sense. Anyhow, I am bringing the bike to the dealership to get the firmware updated to the new Scram CPU mapping. Pub Runner in Australia had it done and he said the change was fantastic performance. If that does not work out I will install the FuelX CPU and keep following Ben's advice.
Wouldn't it stall due to the air cooling? Instead of fluid? That why in Florida old school Harleys have to wait on the side of the road because they're over heating
I had a couple of engine lights on my Himy after messing with the engine. After turning the bike on and off again 10 times or so it always disappeared
My BS4 Himalayan would stall after I had been on the highway for a while in 5th gear and when I slow down to get ready to stop, if I put it in neutral it tends to lose engine power and stall.
Yep...mine was doing the exact same thing. Since I re-seated the relays and had the throttle position sensor slightly adjusted, I have not stalled once in over 2000 miles. Even on cold starts. I'm absolutely certain the random cut-out stalls were caused by the fuel pump cutting out due to the faulty relay connection.
@@On2Feet Awesome information thanks. I should look into these things.
Check the actual spade connectors in the relay block they aren't retained all that well and vibrate out of the housing or can be pushed out when you plug the relays in. I melted one in the first 300 miles, they are under rated for their duty. Fit higher current ones.
Then....
Remove the evap cannister, that will smooth out the idle and warm stalling
And
Make sure the tank vent pipe (the right hand one with the clip) is clear, if that gets pinched you will gave all sorts of strange running and interesting stalling and loss of power events
I haven't had a stall since re-seating the relays...so I think that was probably the cause of my random stalls. As far as cold start stalls, since I had the Throttle Position sensor adjusted, I've had not stalls there either (and it idles better). I did check the hose out of the tank for kinks, and it's good....but I opted not to remove the evap cannister just yet.
@@On2Feet fair enough, I find that evap vent line kinks very easily when refitting the tank, it can be a real pain. Glad the issues have gone away , hopefully it was just the relays
Related video on TPS adjustment ua-cam.com/video/BNYGt2RW8pM/v-deo.html and idle screw ua-cam.com/video/VhkReLSSIfs/v-deo.html
hi..if you have that engine check light...switch On & off Key 3 times...that light will GO
I think on the new 21 US/North American model, this no longer works. Regardless, it eventually did go off, and has been off for the past 8 months...so I guess I don't need to worry about it for now. :-)
@@On2Feet On the Indian domestic models we have in Burma we turn on key then hold the 2 mode/select buttons down for 10 seconds and the wrench symbol goes away...will relight in 5000km. Supposed to be done each time oil is changed.
this happened everytime you remove the fuel pump connection...
Do you know what voltage the shop changed your TPS to?
I don't....but I have been wondering that exact thing myself as I see different recommendations in different videos. I might just use my multimeter to find out.
@@On2Feet Thanks for the reply. Mine was 0.65v from the factory. Changed it to 0.68v but still having starting issues. Will not idle without stalling. Bi-starter "choke" results in immediate stalling.
Did you also try upping your idle speed slightly?
@@On2Feet I have not. When I increased my TPS voltage, it seems to idle a bit higher now. Somewhere around 1400 rpm.
I'm trying to get to 300 miles as soon as I can, so I can check my valve clearances and see if they are way off.
@@Sherlock_Ohms ua-cam.com/video/VhkReLSSIfs/v-deo.html He has an in depth video on this & others too. Setting his to 0.56v
Is there any way I could contact you? An email to reach out, or a WhatsApp number? I would like to ask you some questions. My Himalayan is really beat down, and the dealership I got it from sucks and doesn’t know much of anything about the bike. You and two wheel Ben are my main sources of information. You do great work. Thank you.
I was pretty much sure you were from Flagstaff. The tip off was the pine trees in the back ground and your statement of being a climate scientist. The ultimate causes of the poor running condition of the Himalayan is that it is a poor use of lean burn tech. This was very apparent in cars made during the seventies. The real cure would be a new control module based on something like the raspberry pi. with a custom fuel map. Head on over to your universities computer department. The relays are a real source of trouble because R. E. made them cheap. You are wrong about the dielectric grease. The socket that they go in does not have enough spring tension to force out the excess grease. Most of the electrical connections are cheap in that they lack proper water protection, so be careful when you wash it. A quick trip out to my own Himalayan showed me that the oxygen sensor had only two wires meaning that the whole thing was yesterdays fuel injection tech. Maybe I am wrong as it was hard to see in there.
Ha ha...yep...I'm a Flagstaffer (Flagstaffian?)...guilty as charged. For me, what remedied all of my stalling problems was two simple things: I replaced the 2 relays with better ones from Hitchcock's, and I had the Throttle Position Sensor voltage adjusted at my dealership. I have not had a single cold-start stall or random cut-out stall since.
@@On2Feet I am going to start with the simple things that you suggest. I own a volt ohm meter so I will adjust the tps myself. Thanks.