I don't know why I watch these videos, there's a very small chance I'll ever again see an M in the twilight of my life, let alone owning or working on one. It's just very relaxing to watch you work, kind of like going fishing to relieve the stresses of the day.
Hey Squatch on those galvanized parts taking paint. Give them a wash in vinegar, then rinse with distilled water, allow to dry and they will be ready for paint. This should improve paint adhesion about 50%! Great video as usual, really looking forward to seeing the "H" all together and running again!
Excellent video your making progress that is the main thing. Apparently international harvestor had a problem with people turning up the engine rpms because the serial number tag states Do Not Overspeed they definitely gained a bunch of power at a higher engine rpms then factory settings the one neighbor here when I was a kid would turn the speed up they really sounded strong but sometimes the connecting rods decides to come out of the block. Keep up the great videos
Gidday from Downunder. Love the attn to detail in your builds and follow with the utmost respect for your work. I feel my OCD is playing a part to this comment as i cant get over the Gen Belt being on backwards with writing pointing to engine and not radiator fan. I couldnt sleep and feel i have to point it out :P so i can relax please turn it. Cheers Keep up the good work cheers.
We had an F20 with steel wheels, a B John Deere, and then hit the big time with an AC WD45. I joined the army in 66 and my parents sold everything and moved to Arizona. I don't miss those tractors much but It would be nice to have them to fix up.
If you’re wanting all the correct details on the H all hose clamps should be the Witteks tower clamps Steiner has them. That’s what I’m putting on my A. Finding all dot stamped bolts is hard to do these days. People replace them with standard bolts if they loose one or have to cut one out. And I sure hope your going with a Steiner Restoration quality factory correct H muffler for the correct sound and look. And original style clamp for the muffler.
😊😊👍👍👍👍they used to lighten the governor weights so the governor would open up faster and a bit farther 😊😊 We had a old M that they did that to !! And the governor would bounce a bit when you opened it up 😮😊😊👍👍
Maybe it's just me but seeing you work on the governor reminded me that these Farmalls seem ridiculously complicated compared to other tractors of the era. A Ford is about as simple as a rock. A Deere is about as simple as a rock with two fewer cylinders. International seemed intent on cramming as much complication as possible into the space available. Did the theoretical advantage of a separate throttle butterfly for the governor outweigh the practical disadvantage of one more mechanism to get misadjusted, stuck or broken?
Hey Toby. Have you ever seen one of those governors scatter? The M that I grew up driving did a runaway on me and I had to do an emergency shutdown that included throwing it in fifth gear and popping the clutch because it was dieseling. The governor had literally ripped the weights off with enough force to dent the cover plate. I was running a silage chopper at the time and she was pretty well warmed up and I always would let her idle for a few minutes to let her cool down the manifold before I shut her down. I actually heard the manifold crack about 5 minutes after the emergency shutdown. The inside of that governor looked like someone set off a stick of dynamite inside it. Even the shaft was bent. I think one of the weights snapped off the ear that went against the thrust bearing and swung out against the cover plate and the party was on.
You and your Sr are doing a fantastic job. The attention to detail is so precise. Said it before, I'll say it again. It's been Squatched,,therefore it's better.
16:49 A stack of rubber infused cork, high density way wiper felt, and another rubber infused cork "washer" makes for a good replacement. My uncle used to have a leather washer instead of the felt, but buying a whole leather slab just to get a single piece it's kinda 'eh' so we used rubber infused cork instead. Works really well. The whole stack is slightly oversized, the cover stands spaced (because of it) by at least a mm or two extra, before being cinched down. I did the last replacement and used two longer bolts with nuts to bring it in, then swapped them with the regular ones once it settled down.
Are you thinking about installing shutters on the radiator? I think they had them originally but most have been removed and hanging on the shed wall. Not necessary with thermostats and since it’s a gasoline tractor, our super h had them and it’s a gasoline so I don’t know the timeframe when they were omitted.
Clamps are about as bad as heat shrink! If you don’t put them on immediately your going to forget and have to take it all apart again. Keep up the great videos tractor is looking fantastic!
What brand and style of hose clamps do you like? Talking general purpose screw type like on that small coolant hose. I like the Gates heavy duty stainless.
In Australia We call that wedge thing in the waterpump dogbone a cotter pin & those things you call cotter pins We call a split pin. That Permatex non-hardening also works wonders on rubber radiator hoses and makes them easier to remove later
@@stevebloke5455 Yep as soon as Toby pushed the pin in I thought "now that's a cotter pin". Or should I say "That's not a cotter pin, now this is a cotter pin".
Toby, I'm greatly enjoying your Preparation H (LOL) series and learning a lot about my favorite letter series Farmall tractor - thanks! An off topic comment, if it's OK - I just finished your terrific content on Senior's Farmall Super M rebuild as you suggested in an earlier reply. In it you rightly mentioned that the solid red front wheels just didn't look "right" without the silver rims. I felt the same about a '51 Cub I did a few years ago (even though the Cub always had solid red front wheels - I've since seen the light on my current Cub). I'd like to send a photo of the '51 to you showing how it looked with silver front rims. It was an easy "upgrade" that would look great on you dad's Super M. How can I send that picture to you?
Thanks for the update Toby! She’s coming along nicely! Will be great to see that all filled in and ready for the sheet metal! Can’t wait for the next video!
Where did you find the rubber grommets that insert into the battery box lid ? I lost mine when a friend wanted to show me how powder paint would look. Thank you.
20:54 i'll try to find it, and if i do, i'll post it here, but there's at least one picture of a cover that goes on top. Round holes for the belts, stamped to fit around the edges with two little "legs" that stand on the rails. Didn't look homemade to my eye, but some people go above and beyond sometimes and it being one picture... you never know. That particular H was painted a very dark cerulean blue, almost sapphire blue, no markings on it other than the classic decal letters and if someone's seen it, another detail, the front wheels were 3 rib Firestones. Stood out to me because the owenr had painted the lettering white.
I heard somewhere that the castings, drawings, permissions to manufacture h's and m's were sold to somewhere in south america to continue to make the tractors but were painted blue to differentiate from the US versions. I think it was a man who moved to Honduras that had seen a blue tractor and was told they were made down there. maybe that is where the cover was made for the ones down there. does anyone know if that is true?
@davidvogel6359 I've heard nothing about production parts being made down there, but that doesn't mean it's not true. HOWEVER IHC would in my opinion paint their tractors any color you wanted for a price. A dear departed friend watched a BLUE M being unloaded at a dealership from the factory. It was delivered a bit westof Chicago and he was a teenager when he seen it. Struck him so much he restored an M and put it back to blue. As it is, it's not that difficult to find yellow, orange, white, and green letter series. Their was also a farmer in California that had every piece of equipment in white. He bought a handful of 1066's new and each was painted white for him by IHC.
@stevestrohacker8436 I saw a gleaner combine painted a camouflage with brown, black, green etc when the plant was in Independence, mo. I also realize that most companies would paint their machines what ever color you wanted to pay for. that is not what I am asking about. this was when h and m were no longer made in the US but were made by a different company not ih and were painted blue.
@@davidvogel6359 I didn't understand your message that way, sorry. I'm completely unaware of any replicant H and M tractors ever being made. In the F series there was a replicant made in Europe but that's all I'm aware of.
Glad I read all the comments as I was just about to write the same thing! ( From Northern Ireland ). And we'll not go into Fenders, Trunks, Mufflers, Transmissions, Rotors, Rockers, Valve Lash and wrenches! 😂
Where did you get the parts manual from? I'm looking for one but don't really know where to get it from. Good work on the H, I'll be following your steps very shortly!
It's coming together nice! I've been meaning to ask to, do you ever let visitors stop by? I've got to head over that way later this summer to deliver some parts and could meet up with you if you're interested.
I can't believe I herd you refer to that monstrosity connecting the governor to the carb as "slick". When you're in the field fighting with a cantankerous carb in failing light and you spend what feels like forever trying to get the butterfly rod properly engaged with that governor rod, and you climb up on the tractor and start the engine, and realize you have no throttle control and it all has to be taken apart again, it's enough to make a man turn on the pto and let it grab some loose clothing..... seriously, what's wrong with a simple bent rod that's, you know, actually accessible?, you know, like every other manufacturer used?
Prototype governor???????? Wire keepers for the fly weights? Linkage is different. Brass plug and ball bearings for the arm. Should be only 3 screws for the tamper proof..
Okay, other than the way you carry yourself there's the work ethic. That way you bent the cotter key over the top and flattened it against the shaft screams military, when and who served?
The simplicity of these older tractors are such a welcome sight compared to the over complicated stuff they are selling today.
I don't know why I watch these videos, there's a very small chance I'll ever again see an M in the twilight of my life, let alone owning or working on one. It's just very relaxing to watch you work, kind of like going fishing to relieve the stresses of the day.
Your not alone I'm 81
I'm 80.
I enjoy all of your videos. Your attention to detail is great. Keep the videos coming
Looking good all along. You are just too good at what you do!!
Getting in the short rows, it's been quite a project.
it's the small pieces that matter. thanks again. stay safe.
The inner workings of the Governor would almost fill a complete episode. I am looking forward to seeing your method of adjusting them.
Hey Squatch on those galvanized parts taking paint. Give them a wash in vinegar, then rinse with distilled water, allow to dry and they will be ready for paint. This should improve paint adhesion about 50%! Great video as usual, really looking forward to seeing the "H" all together and running again!
Excellent video your making progress that is the main thing. Apparently international harvestor had a problem with people turning up the engine rpms because the serial number tag states Do Not Overspeed they definitely gained a bunch of power at a higher engine rpms then factory settings the one neighbor here when I was a kid would turn the speed up they really sounded strong but sometimes the connecting rods decides to come out of the block. Keep up the great videos
As much as I like patina, that new paint sure is pretty!!!
Good Job.
The tapered wedge is what we, in the UK, call a cotter pin......
Your meticulous planning is truly an inspiration. I can't wait for the next episode. Also, I haven't forgotten about the rock crusher! 😉
I also looking forward for the rock crusher rebuild
Gidday from Downunder. Love the attn to detail in your builds and follow with the utmost respect for your work. I feel my OCD is playing a part to this comment as i cant get over the Gen Belt being on backwards with writing pointing to engine and not radiator fan. I couldnt sleep and feel i have to point it out :P so i can relax please turn it. Cheers Keep up the good work cheers.
We had an F20 with steel wheels, a B John Deere, and then hit the big time with an AC WD45. I joined the army in 66 and my parents sold everything and moved to Arizona. I don't miss those tractors much but It would be nice to have them to fix up.
How can he remember all that? I talk off the the head and I forget how to put it back together. 😂
Interesting...I never once thought about paint type on a radiator.
If you’re wanting all the correct details on the H all hose clamps should be the Witteks tower clamps Steiner has them. That’s what I’m putting on my A. Finding all dot stamped bolts is hard to do these days. People replace them with standard bolts if they loose one or have to cut one out. And I sure hope your going with a Steiner Restoration quality factory correct H muffler for the correct sound and look. And original style clamp for the muffler.
Another great video Squatch! Cheers
😊😊👍👍👍👍they used to lighten the governor weights so the governor would open up faster and a bit farther 😊😊
We had a old M that they did that to !! And the governor would bounce a bit when you opened it up 😮😊😊👍👍
Great job, my 1952 Super M had a M&W governor on it. What a big difference that governor made to my tractor.
Little details... Little tiny details... But it will make all the difference in the world! Looking forward to the final product!
Maybe it's just me but seeing you work on the governor reminded me that these Farmalls seem ridiculously complicated compared to other tractors of the era. A Ford is about as simple as a rock. A Deere is about as simple as a rock with two fewer cylinders. International seemed intent on cramming as much complication as possible into the space available. Did the theoretical advantage of a separate throttle butterfly for the governor outweigh the practical disadvantage of one more mechanism to get misadjusted, stuck or broken?
Looking good! Do you have a video on how you make the fold-over locks? Tried searching for one but couldn't come up with anything.
Hey Toby. Have you ever seen one of those governors scatter? The M that I grew up driving did a runaway on me and I had to do an emergency shutdown that included throwing it in fifth gear and popping the clutch because it was dieseling. The governor had literally ripped the weights off with enough force to dent the cover plate. I was running a silage chopper at the time and she was pretty well warmed up and I always would let her idle for a few minutes to let her cool down the manifold before I shut her down. I actually heard the manifold crack about 5 minutes after the emergency shutdown. The inside of that governor looked like someone set off a stick of dynamite inside it. Even the shaft was bent. I think one of the weights snapped off the ear that went against the thrust bearing and swung out against the cover plate and the party was on.
You and your Sr are doing a fantastic job. The attention to detail is so precise. Said it before, I'll say it again. It's been Squatched,,therefore it's better.
The governor for my M has three weights. Made by M & W Gear Company. I suppose an add on at the time. Ellis
Great work!! Thank you for sharing!!!!
Hope to see you back he says every video 🤔 think that we are all like bees round a honeypot 🙄😁
Excellent work!
Amazing attention to the small details Squatch!
Awesome
Great! The governor work was almost as an advanced surgery in my opinion.
Lots of handy hacks with Toby
Love the way all the tapped and died threads go back together.
16:49 A stack of rubber infused cork, high density way wiper felt, and another rubber infused cork "washer" makes for a good replacement. My uncle used to have a leather washer instead of the felt, but buying a whole leather slab just to get a single piece it's kinda 'eh' so we used rubber infused cork instead. Works really well. The whole stack is slightly oversized, the cover stands spaced (because of it) by at least a mm or two extra, before being cinched down. I did the last replacement and used two longer bolts with nuts to bring it in, then swapped them with the regular ones once it settled down.
I wish you long heathy life BUT when you do pass make sure they know to put fold over locks on your casket !!!!!
And some Cosmoline!
Are you thinking about installing shutters on the radiator? I think they had them originally but most have been removed and hanging on the shed wall. Not necessary with thermostats and since it’s a gasoline tractor, our super h had them and it’s a gasoline so I don’t know the timeframe when they were omitted.
You've a good balance between explanation while showing/doing. Nicely done!
Clamps are about as bad as heat shrink! If you don’t put them on immediately your going to forget and have to take it all apart again. Keep up the great videos tractor is looking fantastic!
What brand and style of hose clamps do you like? Talking general purpose screw type like on that small coolant hose. I like the Gates heavy duty stainless.
In Australia We call that wedge thing in the waterpump dogbone a cotter pin & those things you call cotter pins We call a split pin. That Permatex non-hardening also works wonders on rubber radiator hoses and makes them easier to remove later
You beat me to it, The pin war continues....
@@stevebloke5455 Yep as soon as Toby pushed the pin in I thought "now that's a cotter pin". Or should I say "That's not a cotter pin, now this is a cotter pin".
Toby, I'm greatly enjoying your Preparation H (LOL) series and learning a lot about my favorite letter series Farmall tractor - thanks! An off topic comment, if it's OK - I just finished your terrific content on Senior's Farmall Super M rebuild as you suggested in an earlier reply. In it you rightly mentioned that the solid red front wheels just didn't look "right" without the silver rims. I felt the same about a '51 Cub I did a few years ago (even though the Cub always had solid red front wheels - I've since seen the light on my current Cub). I'd like to send a photo of the '51 to you showing how it looked with silver front rims. It was an easy "upgrade" that would look great on you dad's Super M. How can I send that picture to you?
That tractor is a work of Art.
Thanks for the update Toby! She’s coming along nicely! Will be great to see that all filled in and ready for the sheet metal! Can’t wait for the next video!
Toby.
Where did you find the rubber grommets that insert into the battery box lid ?
I lost mine when a friend wanted to show me how powder paint would look.
Thank you.
20:54 i'll try to find it, and if i do, i'll post it here, but there's at least one picture of a cover that goes on top. Round holes for the belts, stamped to fit around the edges with two little "legs" that stand on the rails. Didn't look homemade to my eye, but some people go above and beyond sometimes and it being one picture... you never know. That particular H was painted a very dark cerulean blue, almost sapphire blue, no markings on it other than the classic decal letters and if someone's seen it, another detail, the front wheels were 3 rib Firestones. Stood out to me because the owenr had painted the lettering white.
I heard somewhere that the castings, drawings, permissions to manufacture h's and m's were sold to somewhere in south america to continue to make the tractors but were painted blue to differentiate from the US versions. I think it was a man who moved to Honduras that had seen a blue tractor and was told they were made down there. maybe that is where the cover was made for the ones down there. does anyone know if that is true?
@davidvogel6359 I've heard nothing about production parts being made down there, but that doesn't mean it's not true. HOWEVER IHC would in my opinion paint their tractors any color you wanted for a price. A dear departed friend watched a BLUE M being unloaded at a dealership from the factory. It was delivered a bit westof Chicago and he was a teenager when he seen it. Struck him so much he restored an M and put it back to blue. As it is, it's not that difficult to find yellow, orange, white, and green letter series. Their was also a farmer in California that had every piece of equipment in white. He bought a handful of 1066's new and each was painted white for him by IHC.
@stevestrohacker8436 I saw a gleaner combine painted a camouflage with brown, black, green etc when the plant was in Independence, mo. I also realize that most companies would paint their machines what ever color you wanted to pay for. that is not what I am asking about. this was when h and m were no longer made in the US but were made by a different company not ih and were painted blue.
@@davidvogel6359 I didn't understand your message that way, sorry. I'm completely unaware of any replicant H and M tractors ever being made. In the F series there was a replicant made in Europe but that's all I'm aware of.
The guy who designed that governor must have been a mechanical genius!
Good stuff !!!!
Good video
That “wedge pin” is what we in Commonwealth countries call a ‘Cotter Pin’. What you call a cotter pin, we call a ‘Split Pin’.
Glad I read all the comments as I was just about to write the same thing! ( From Northern Ireland ). And we'll not go into Fenders, Trunks, Mufflers, Transmissions, Rotors, Rockers, Valve Lash and wrenches! 😂
Top of the steering tower would be wonderful place for a bird bath. It was probably on the secret dealer option list anyway. Think about it
WOOOOT FOLD OVER LOCKS!!!!
That ball bearing behind the gear. On the governor should be a slight press fit??????????????
Where did you get the parts manual from? I'm looking for one but don't really know where to get it from. Good work on the H, I'll be following your steps very shortly!
Im curious on if IH had different governer weights or where they all the same for the H?
It's coming together nice! I've been meaning to ask to, do you ever let visitors stop by? I've got to head over that way later this summer to deliver some parts and could meet up with you if you're interested.
Just thinking Toby, you're not an expert... you're where the experts go to learn!
Wait a minute! That dog bone link does WHAT!?
It would be cool to see you build a ""hot rod"" tractor
A one wire alternator is the Squatch version of a hot rod. 😂
Just like eating an elephant...one bite atta time.
I can't believe I herd you refer to that monstrosity connecting the governor to the carb as "slick". When you're in the field fighting with a cantankerous carb in failing light and you spend what feels like forever trying to get the butterfly rod properly engaged with that governor rod, and you climb up on the tractor and start the engine, and realize you have no throttle control and it all has to be taken apart again, it's enough to make a man turn on the pto and let it grab some loose clothing..... seriously, what's wrong with a simple bent rod that's, you know, actually accessible?, you know, like every other manufacturer used?
if only they made a hose clamp that could be fully unthreaded... ;)
👍
Quickly!
Prototype governor???????? Wire keepers for the fly weights? Linkage is different. Brass plug and ball bearings for the arm. Should be only 3 screws for the tamper proof..
❤
Okay, other than the way you carry yourself there's the work ethic. That way you bent the cotter key over the top and flattened it against the shaft screams military, when and who served?
First?
Well it has been raining off and on here but it dont mean much for there
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🍻🍻🍻🥃🥃🥃👀👀👀☕️☕️☕️👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Toby what camera do you use? Again thank you for taking us along with you on this adventure.
✋🏼🇦🇺👍🏼
View #524!!!