@@MelissaShields I don't believe this comment is correct. If you mirror your fabric, EACH cut will be a mirrored image. You are simply rotating your tool (tip pointing up for one pair, tip pointing down for the next cut, each aligned with the last cut angled edge, so there is no waste, v flipping the tool rightside to backside to achieve a mirror on a single layer of fabric.
There are many ways to skin the quilt cat. I have to make many of 3" finished blocks, and I was figuring out my production method to put these in a 9 patch with an economy block at the center. I have a some maker's notes. (Block is called a V block by Deb Tucker, Peaky and Spike (it's old fashion name). This ruler is a great investment. You can make the square blocks as demonstrated here as well as proportional rectangle blocks (2 x tall as wide). Note 1: A helper ruler butted on the left hand side allows for an easy cut on that end without reaching around (and the triangle for the sides, and the sides for the triangle make the perfect butt!). I always use stable ruler to help with those angled cuts (hexagons, triangles etc). Note 2: If you have many of these units to do, consider the following which I believe is a real time saver. The sides can be cut from a rectangle of fabric (maximize your time by stacking 2 layers right/wrong sides together to get 2 mirrored pairs for each cut). For example, a 3" finished unit (cut from a 3.5" strip) requires a 2 5/8" rectangle (Itty Bitty Eighths ruler works well when dealing with eighths has it has a line to easily follow.) There is NO wasted fabric using this method, and I'm unclear as to the comments stating that there is in your response to others noting same. For just a few sides, simply cut a smaller piece of fabric; you don't have to work with a full strip. Often several of these blocks need to be made. It also avoids awkward turns of the ruler. To figure out the rectangle that you might need to cut, you can cut two out and shove them together and measure (or use the ruler on paper and measure). Using the rectangle method--I worked backwards! I cut the strip at 2 5/8ths (wrong sides together). I then used my Stripology ruler to subcut the strip into 3.5" rectangles. I then took the side ruler and line up one side and made one cut. Make corner nicks to make matching points easier. This is quite fast and accurate. This cutting coupled with glue basting (note 4) would make Henry Ford envious of your production rates. Note 3: I have a corner cutting tool (Marti Michell's Deluxe Corner Trimmer) that has a corner for the peaky/spike block--which is what this block is also known as. It cuts the top tip so that it aligns perfectly across the top (v. the bottom). (It's a fab tool that has many uses! It's an observation and a work preference. The little knick on this tool allows perfect alignment. Note 4: Glue basting is a great way to produce a lot of blocks, in addition to the cutting methods noted above. Glue baste one side to the triangle (run a bead of glue, place the side to the triangle, and quickly heat set. You can stack up a number of these, and then chain piece. Press open, and then rinse and repeat on the other side. This method also has the advantage of stabilizing the bias on both pieces. (I use the method for Diamond Rectangles as well). Note 5: When working with triangles (regardless of the tool), some tools have a flat tip, some have a pointy tip. Accordingly, block construction/strip widths WILL (not may) vary if you use a pointy v. a blunt tip without modifying your strip width. Marcie Baker has a great video on this. As a newer quilter a couple of years ago, I did not understand how rulers differed in this regard.
You could but if you aren't using the whole strip then you are wasting fabric. Since I only needed a few I swapped back and forth to save as much as possible.
But if you fold the fabric with wrong sides touching you will only use the same as cutting them separately but your saving time you do not have to cut the whole strip in pieces. And the side pieces are not meeting the bottom of the triangle when sewn. I am a little confused by your directions.
If you fold it in half you will have to ends of the strip with odd angles that have to be squared up in order to use what is left. My method takes just a few minutes longer but saves fabric when you only need a few units. IMO, cutting fabric from a folded piece leads to waste or scraps that won't get used so I don't show others to do it that way. My goal is to save as much fabric as possible or to provide a way to use what is cut off. Since I don't have a way to utilize the scraps from squaring up the leftover piece I don't show it that way. The side pieces don't meet the bottom of the triangle so that you have points when you sew them into the block.
Guess it is just up to each quilter how they want their fabric cut and to match up as it should. I am for saving fabric and time consumption. What works for some does not work for all.
If you fold the "recs" fabric in 1/2 you cut the right & left at the same time & don't have to use the untaped side...
Yes, but you'll end up wasting fabric. Unless you need the whole strip going back and forth is the best way to save fabric.
@@MelissaShields I don't believe this comment is correct. If you mirror your fabric, EACH cut will be a mirrored image. You are simply rotating your tool (tip pointing up for one pair, tip pointing down for the next cut, each aligned with the last cut angled edge, so there is no waste, v flipping the tool rightside to backside to achieve a mirror on a single layer of fabric.
@@notesfromleisa-land Yes, Melissa is mistaken.
Gorgeous fabric.
There are many ways to skin the quilt cat. I have to make many of 3" finished blocks, and I was figuring out my production method to put these in a 9 patch with an economy block at the center. I have a some maker's notes. (Block is called a V block by Deb Tucker, Peaky and Spike (it's old fashion name). This ruler is a great investment. You can make the square blocks as demonstrated here as well as proportional rectangle blocks (2 x tall as wide).
Note 1: A helper ruler butted on the left hand side allows for an easy cut on that end without reaching around (and the triangle for the sides, and the sides for the triangle make the perfect butt!). I always use stable ruler to help with those angled cuts (hexagons, triangles etc).
Note 2: If you have many of these units to do, consider the following which I believe is a real time saver.
The sides can be cut from a rectangle of fabric (maximize your time by stacking 2 layers right/wrong sides together to get 2 mirrored pairs for each cut). For example, a 3" finished unit (cut from a 3.5" strip) requires a 2 5/8" rectangle (Itty Bitty Eighths ruler works well when dealing with eighths has it has a line to easily follow.) There is NO wasted fabric using this method, and I'm unclear as to the comments stating that there is in your response to others noting same. For just a few sides, simply cut a smaller piece of fabric; you don't have to work with a full strip. Often several of these blocks need to be made. It also avoids awkward turns of the ruler. To figure out the rectangle that you might need to cut, you can cut two out and shove them together and measure (or use the ruler on paper and measure).
Using the rectangle method--I worked backwards! I cut the strip at 2 5/8ths (wrong sides together). I then used my Stripology ruler to subcut the strip into 3.5" rectangles. I then took the side ruler and line up one side and made one cut. Make corner nicks to make matching points easier. This is quite fast and accurate. This cutting coupled with glue basting (note 4) would make Henry Ford envious of your production rates.
Note 3: I have a corner cutting tool (Marti Michell's Deluxe Corner Trimmer) that has a corner for the peaky/spike block--which is what this block is also known as. It cuts the top tip so that it aligns perfectly across the top (v. the bottom). (It's a fab tool that has many uses! It's an observation and a work preference. The little knick on this tool allows perfect alignment.
Note 4: Glue basting is a great way to produce a lot of blocks, in addition to the cutting methods noted above. Glue baste one side to the triangle (run a bead of glue, place the side to the triangle, and quickly heat set. You can stack up a number of these, and then chain piece. Press open, and then rinse and repeat on the other side. This method also has the advantage of stabilizing the bias on both pieces. (I use the method for Diamond Rectangles as well).
Note 5: When working with triangles (regardless of the tool), some tools have a flat tip, some have a pointy tip. Accordingly, block construction/strip widths WILL (not may) vary if you use a pointy v. a blunt tip without modifying your strip width. Marcie Baker has a great video on this. As a newer quilter a couple of years ago, I did not understand how rulers differed in this regard.
So, when you sew them together, how do they keep the points? The colored points go all the way to the end.
The seam allowance creates the points both at the top and the bottom. That is why the tip of the side hangs over the blunted edge by 1/4".
Why couldn't you fold the Fabric for the sides to cut both sides at one time?
You could but if you aren't using the whole strip then you are wasting fabric. Since I only needed a few I swapped back and forth to save as much as possible.
But if you fold the fabric with wrong sides touching you will only use the same as cutting them separately but your saving time you do not have to cut the whole strip in pieces. And the side pieces are not meeting the bottom of the triangle when sewn. I am a little confused by your directions.
If you fold it in half you will have to ends of the strip with odd angles that have to be squared up in order to use what is left. My method takes just a few minutes longer but saves fabric when you only need a few units. IMO, cutting fabric from a folded piece leads to waste or scraps that won't get used so I don't show others to do it that way. My goal is to save as much fabric as possible or to provide a way to use what is cut off. Since I don't have a way to utilize the scraps from squaring up the leftover piece I don't show it that way.
The side pieces don't meet the bottom of the triangle so that you have points when you sew them into the block.
Guess it is just up to each quilter how they want their fabric cut and to match up as it should. I am for saving fabric and time consumption. What works for some does not work for all.
@@MelissaShields Actually, as long as you cut an even number of triangles, the edge ends up straight.