To stop a crack from expanding, drill a hole at the end of the crack. This is a plugging/patching technique from the military. Thank you for the review. Looking for something to fix a small nick on a PVC elbow that is a drain pipe (at the top of a run)... so zero pressure. It might do the trick.
daniel, thanks for the reminder, have used the drill hole technique on quite a few piece with the military back in the day. I just finished filming a follow on video where I used plastic welding which seems to have worked better than anything else. Stay tuned for that video coming out soon.
The problem could be the flexibility of the plastic barrel. The Flex Paste is flexible, but only up to a certain limit. With water in the barrel, it likely bulged more than the Flex Paste could stretch. Not necessarily a product failure, just asked to do more than it could. You might try plastic welding to fix the barrels. You can get a plastic welder from Harbor Freight, though it does take practice.
Great advice I'm working on buy some flex paste, instead of using for barrels, I want it to stop the rain drops from the roof😅. The roof has a waterproof thermal seal, however, in Mexico the sun burns as hell all day long, then the night is too cold, this conditions have made a thin but large crack, this year I started to suffer leaks cause of that. As you say plastic barrels are deformed cause water pressure. In this case, I will not contain water, I just want, rain flow and pass freely and do not pass trough the crack. I will make the prove, I expect works for me.
Cid, You might want to use a roofing caulk instead. I've have the flex paste peal on me on several applications. The dark tape might be better if you want to use a flex product. Or the Gorilla Tape version... Get the dark tape. The clear tape also broke down on me over a year or so...
The plastic that the tank is made out of is HDPE which is extremely difficult to bond to. I’d recommend learning how to plastic weld because it’s really the only “true” way, unfortunately, to repair HDPE. Even specialty glue companies struggle to develop HDPE glues.
I wish you had drilled the ends of the cracks before commencing your fix attempt. This MUST be done, otherwise, it doesn't matter how you attempt to fix existing crack. If not drilled, crack will progress, once water pressure builds inside. Learned the hard way.
Robert, as it turned out it was more like 72 hours when I tested with water from the hose, then removed the water, dried them out for another 48 hours before it rained. Thanks for your comment. I was assuming the "fry" was a typo.
u may have made out better with applying a thin layer to make sure the seal was sealed n then another layer. but all in all I think u would of made out better with the liquid flexseal.
Interesting, in this case it would be difficult to apply in a 4 ft deep water barrel full, do you have experience with this approach? In the end I plastic welded both barrels and they're working like champs now: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
Luke, interesting suggestion. I've used holes like that on other projects, but never thought about doing that on this challenge. Stay tuned for an update here, I think I've finally solved this one.
Make It or Break It -- LOVE you in Philadelphia. Just a friendly comment here. Perhaps a trade to a proper wooden barrel like those used in NYC for over 100 years is in order? Betcha this winter will see carpenters everywhere looking for something interesting to do and a wooden water tower is not the same old same old. Anywho Be the Light in the war against the Dark, Jack Harrowgate, Phila., PA ---- USA ----
I used flex paste to stop water leaking around my kitchen window, I have recently replaced the gutters on the house no more rain coming in. My problem I have now, is how do I remove the built up paste. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
a solvent like Acetone should loosen it up, but try to ventelate the area as best as possible, the fumes are bad...Then a putty knife or scraper and carefully dig in...
STOP! throw the barrel out man! if you must do this with a plastic garbage can... place several metal bands from new please google water towers and design before you resume. And come see why you are failing so much.
I ended up using plastic welding, and embedded a wire mesh and now the barrels are working good as new, here's the video:ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
oh also did u clean it and also it was to thick. it tells u to not so thick and to let sit for 24 hrs in between coats. how long did the barrel actually sat for to dry with it that thick
Thanks for the great video. I'll be sure to check out others you've made. 🙌 As a full time cruser I always use Sikaflex 291 but lately it's been hard to find. I'm seeing flex past everywhere so I'm thinking of giving it a try. Unfortunately I haven't seen any comparison videos on the two. Oh and just a suggestion. Drill a small hole at the end of you cracks to keep them from growing.
I actually waited for at times over a week and still had the same issues. I solved this one by plastic welding: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
Good test overall. I like the tips in the comment to drill a hole to stop a running split. I came here as was looking for reviews on the Gorilla (or any "paste") product. I don't trust it for strength, it just seems like it's a glorified smear-able rubber. I'm trying to repair a gaping hole on the wall of an OLD pool skimmer. Used clear primer and cement to layer 3 sheets of fiberglass fabric. At the point of deciding whether to bondo over then paste, or just paste or just bondo :) In your case, not sure bondo is a potable option.
to your point prep can always be better. Plastic welding is what did the trick here ultimately... Here's the video: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
I gave it 2 to 3 times as long as what the lable recommended. The Flex products do not last. Now Gorilla Tape, that's another matter... Here's what worked best for me: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
You gotta stop the crack before you put anything on there. Just like a crack in something steel you gotta drill the ends of the cracks and then weld the seam. They make plastic weld also. They do it to automotive plastic bumpers everyday
I want to use this on the top of my badly aged wood pergola slats. 2x4's. Thought it might protect them from any further rot. I dont want to use the liquid for fear of all the dripping down the sides of slats. What do you think??
All my experiences with Flex products has been disappointing. But I am a fan of Gorilla Tape, which has worked well for me in several applications. amzn.to/44Yf3jk It comes in white, black and clear.
@@MakeItorBreakItNow also, why not high grade silicone? Silicone has low toxicity and excels in adhering to plastics. ua-cam.com/video/G-aQzoHqM80/v-deo.html silicones- different cure agents are key- acidic cure (vinegar smell) is cheap garbage, alcohol or water cure are far better, silicone is particularly good at sealing and adhering to plastics, including new plastics which are leaching oils. lexan or plexiglass should only be sealed with silicone. You can never paint over silicone or silicon hybrids. polyurethane are supposedly more vulnerable to chemical attack, but then silicone the supremely resistant to everything if that's what you're comparing it to. boatlife life seal is a hybrid sealant which combines silicone and polyurethane. new class: 3M 4000 uv new poly ether sealant butyl tape
@@MakeItorBreakItNow My basic approach to doing repairs on plastic like that would be to find a decent adhesive and sealant to use with a sturdy patch piece but not rely on the sealant for adhesion, but knock some holes in it for some kind of screw, pop rivet or fastener which would also be put in with the same adhesive as a sealant.
I understand a rain barrel not working, because it's standing water.... what about the frame of a sloped skylight window, where the water will be running off, and then the roof will be drying out?
Derrick, no doubt it works under many circumstances just not this one, although I have an idea about adding some structure I might try soon. Stay tuned.
I may never know what I'm gonna see, Mike, but one thing's for certain, I know I'll always get an honest opinion on the items you review on this channel. So with that said, I certainly didn't think you were harsh in not recommending a product that ultimately failed to do what it was supposed to do. BTW, I have a question that's not relating to this product, but one that's somewhat similar. One of my nephew's dinosaur toy got dirty, so I decided to wash it. I removed it's rubber neck from its plastic body and filled the neck with water to flush out the gunk inside. What happened was I squeezed the neck too much and the thinnest part of the dinosaur neck formed a bubble that expanded and eventually burst. So now the dinosaur neck has a hole on it and my nephew is none too pleased, heh. What kind of a glue can I use to fix and to patch up the hole on this thing? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and all.
Ghost, that's a tough question to answer, given I can't see the toy. If its a fairly straight cut or small hole a standard super glue might work. A waterproof tape similar to what you'd repair a tent with might also work. You have less options if the "void" can be seen vice hidden somewhere. And a rough surface can be just as much a challenge as a smooth one. Some folks swear by making a past of superglue and making soda, but I haven't had a chance to test that out yet. Thanks for your comments, always interesting.
@@MakeItorBreakItNow My little nephew won't let anyone near the "injured" dinosaur, hahaha, so his parents can't take pics when I asked. They got it overseas, but the rubber is akin to those squeeze (almost stress toys) apparatuses, except not as resilient, as this one burst at its weakest point. So yeah, nephew is not too happy, and I can't find a replacement, so am looking to fix it for him. Still, thanks for your time and advise, Mike. Appreciated, as always!
If used with common sense about limitations flex paste it works great, performed without issue on my 200 gallon pond liner with small holes and cracks.. Sadly availibility of higher end stuff is a problem lately too.
kristopher, makes sense it would work on the pond liner, because you're pushing up against terra firma, the flexing plastic is what did this one in. I did you plastic welding and that worked.
I wonder if this would work to just seal without the job being under pressure. That is what I want it for. Has anybody tried this. I would be using it to seal a leak from water on a vertical wall.
Julie, working on an update to this video using plastic welding. I think the tape works better than the paste or glue. A year later all my paste applications have pealed off on several surfaces but in most cases the tape i still in place...
@@MakeItorBreakItNow It will depend how well silicon will stick to the plastic, seems some plastics need priming to get glues to stick. Silicon sticks very well to glass and withstands a lot of pressure.
Try there Pool Kit. I also saw an "hack,, where they used to put the glu on the tape or the paste on the tape and pressd them really hard on it. Worked for them on the cheap pkastic Pool
I have a question. I bought my mom an automatic soap dispenser for her shower. The shower walls are covered in tile so you can't screw the dispenser to the wall.Can i use flex paste to attach the dispenser to the wall
Last weekend, I tried plastic welding. Testing the barrels now, I think that's going to the solution that finally works for me. Stay tuned for the follow on video coming out soon...
H. you're welcome, I think I solved this problem, finally, using plastic welding. Stay tuned for the video, I'm testing out a couple approaches to see which one works best.
Jeff, yes I did. Thinking about the test a bit more, I guess I could have put it on a couple inches thick and it might have work, but then to me that's not a patch, its a slab. The used a portion of a smaller wooden barrel that really doesn't have much water in it.
@@MakeItorBreakItNow I purchased the clear spray instead as I think it's a better application between my roof and skylight because it will seep into every crack. I DON'T like how bloody toxic it is compared to their other products, but I'll be well-protected.
The problem you're having is, none of those products were designed to work on plastic. I would have to say, your review is only honest in that it failed to patch a material it wasn't designed to patch in the first place.
@@leahrichards2013 The company was NOT deceptive. They never claimed their products would work for this application. This is why we read labels and research products BEFORE purchasing.
@@donaldthomas3173 After taking I sure didn't mean to cause such upset but in all you'd have to at least admit it's implied. There are far more things I'd rather be doing than reading every $20 label. All my comment was referring to was the Morel end of business and how that is lacking in this day. Truly I haven't the time to pick people apart. Do go for it though! God Bless
![FLEX TAPE vs. Gorilla Tape: which one is better? [9]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ro-7sAkVB3s/mqdefault.jpg)
To stop a crack from expanding, drill a hole at the end of the crack. This is a plugging/patching technique from the military. Thank you for the review. Looking for something to fix a small nick on a PVC elbow that is a drain pipe (at the top of a run)... so zero pressure. It might do the trick.
daniel, thanks for the reminder, have used the drill hole technique on quite a few piece with the military back in the day. I just finished filming a follow on video where I used plastic welding which seems to have worked better than anything else. Stay tuned for that video coming out soon.
Blue monster leak tape😎 your welcome👍
The problem could be the flexibility of the plastic barrel. The Flex Paste is flexible, but only up to a certain limit. With water in the barrel, it likely bulged more than the Flex Paste could stretch. Not necessarily a product failure, just asked to do more than it could. You might try plastic welding to fix the barrels. You can get a plastic welder from Harbor Freight, though it does take practice.
Funny you mention plastic welding, here's a follow on video: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
Great advice I'm working on buy some flex paste, instead of using for barrels, I want it to stop the rain drops from the roof😅. The roof has a waterproof thermal seal, however, in Mexico the sun burns as hell all day long, then the night is too cold, this conditions have made a thin but large crack, this year I started to suffer leaks cause of that. As you say plastic barrels are deformed cause water pressure. In this case, I will not contain water, I just want, rain flow and pass freely and do not pass trough the crack.
I will make the prove, I expect works for me.
Cid, You might want to use a roofing caulk instead. I've have the flex paste peal on me on several applications. The dark tape might be better if you want to use a flex product. Or the Gorilla Tape version... Get the dark tape. The clear tape also broke down on me over a year or so...
was there an ultimate solution to fix the barrels?
I think plastic welding is the solution, did some trial runs on both barrels which were very successful. Stay tuned.
because u should of used liquid or the spray for that rather than paste and or tape and went up a quarter or halfway of the barrel I would think
This my third attempt, I've tried the tapes and sprays. See this video: ua-cam.com/video/vAzigceofv4/v-deo.html
silicone is the best
Angy Antar, thanks for the suggestion, I might try that next along with some plastic welding.
How can you have 400 pounds of pressure? Pound is not a unit of pressure.
Greg, 400 pounds force of the weight of the water, not really pressure.
PSI (pounds per square inch) is pressure.
@@Aussienessful yup, pressure is a force...
@@MakeItorBreakItNow Yes every square inch of the surface will have 400 pounds pushing against it.
The plastic that the tank is made out of is HDPE which is extremely difficult to bond to. I’d recommend learning how to plastic weld because it’s really the only “true” way, unfortunately, to repair HDPE. Even specialty glue companies struggle to develop HDPE glues.
Funny you mention it, I did learn to plastic weld, here's the video where I fixed them: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
I wish you had drilled the ends of the cracks before commencing your fix attempt. This MUST be done, otherwise, it doesn't matter how you attempt to fix existing crack. If not drilled, crack will progress, once water pressure builds inside. Learned the hard way.
Justin, great idea, I ended up plastic welding mine, hold up great several months later, plan to shoot the follow up video soon, stay tuned.
Read the directions. Says to let fry 24 to 48 hours. I've used it to fuse two rubber liners together. Let dry 48 hours and no problems.
Robert, as it turned out it was more like 72 hours when I tested with water from the hose, then removed the water, dried them out for another 48 hours before it rained. Thanks for your comment. I was assuming the "fry" was a typo.
u may have made out better with applying a thin layer to make sure the seal was sealed n then another layer. but all in all I think u would of made out better with the liquid flexseal.
Put the paste on when barrol is FULL to avoid crack growth. You put paste on when empty, w/o considering 8 pounds for every gallon you add to it.
Interesting, in this case it would be difficult to apply in a 4 ft deep water barrel full, do you have experience with this approach? In the end I plastic welded both barrels and they're working like champs now: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
City water's no good, but it's okay to have your rainwater sitting in a barrel with toxic adhesive pasted on the inside wall lol.
That's why I ultimately solved this one with plastic welding. Here's the video: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
Drill holes at the end of the cracks that will stop that cracks getting bigger
Luke, interesting suggestion. I've used holes like that on other projects, but never thought about doing that on this challenge. Stay tuned for an update here, I think I've finally solved this one.
Make It or Break It --
LOVE you in Philadelphia.
Just a friendly comment here. Perhaps a trade to a proper wooden barrel like those used in NYC for over 100 years is in order? Betcha this winter will see carpenters everywhere looking for something interesting to do and a wooden water tower is not the same old same old. Anywho
Be the Light in the war against the Dark,
Jack
Harrowgate, Phila., PA ---- USA ----
Thanks, a wooden barrel would be cool, thanks for teh suggestion, I;ll look around.
I used flex paste to stop water leaking around my kitchen window, I have recently replaced the gutters on the house no more rain coming in. My problem I have now, is how do I remove the built up paste. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
a solvent like Acetone should loosen it up, but try to ventelate the area as best as possible, the fumes are bad...Then a putty knife or scraper and carefully dig in...
STOP! throw the barrel out man! if you must do this with a plastic garbage can... place several metal bands from new please google water towers and design before you resume. And come see why you are failing so much.
I ended up using plastic welding, and embedded a wire mesh and now the barrels are working good as new, here's the video:ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
oh also did u clean it
and also it was to thick. it tells u to not so thick and to let sit for 24 hrs in between coats. how long did the barrel actually sat for to dry with it that thick
About a week, it was completely dry. BTW teh commerical pus it on fairly thick...
Had nothing but great results with the flex paste. I'm not sure your prep work was really all there. Have you considered plastic welding?
Yes, here's the video the video that solved what flex Paste couldn't: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
Any of Flex Seal products are all false claims, they do not work to reseal my rain barrel.
True, But plastic welding does, chek out this follow up video: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
I feel like this is just a caulking/sealant, and a polyurethane construction adhesive would serve you better, at least on the outside for rigidity!
agreed, there's nothing special about the Flex products, they're kind of a rip off, at least that's what I've found...
I've never seen anything that 5200 would not fix
I ended up fixing the barrels using plastic welding, here's the video: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
Would this work on a crack of a fiberglass bathtub?
I wouldn't trust it...
I'd bet superglue would work well as that welds the plastic rather than a 2nd material trying to fill the gap
Actually, I used a better method: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
Everything flex tape never worked on anything I have used it on
Interesting. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the great video. I'll be sure to check out others you've made. 🙌
As a full time cruser I always use Sikaflex 291 but lately it's been hard to find. I'm seeing flex past everywhere so I'm thinking of giving it a try.
Unfortunately I haven't seen any comparison videos on the two.
Oh and just a suggestion.
Drill a small hole at the end of you cracks to keep them from growing.
OGGventures chris, thanks for the hole suggestion. I'm not giving up here, I have an idea about laying in some structure, we'll see how that goes.
But directions said wait 24 to 48 hours to let it seal and swell up
I actually waited for at times over a week and still had the same issues. I solved this one by plastic welding: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
Drill a small hole each end of the crack to stop the crack spreading.
Great idea, I ended up doing this and the fix is still going strong: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
Your work is Slappy .😂😂😂 10 minutes all talk .
Thanks for the feedback. Ultimately plastic welding solved this challenge...
You are suppose to let it dry 24 hours before filling!
yes, let it dry for three times that and it still didn't work.
Did you try plastic welding?
I did here's the video where I solved this challenge with plastic welding: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
Good test overall. I like the tips in the comment to drill a hole to stop a running split. I came here as was looking for reviews on the Gorilla (or any "paste") product. I don't trust it for strength, it just seems like it's a glorified smear-able rubber.
I'm trying to repair a gaping hole on the wall of an OLD pool skimmer.
Used clear primer and cement to layer 3 sheets of fiberglass fabric. At the point of deciding whether to bondo over then paste, or just paste or just bondo :)
In your case, not sure bondo is a potable option.
May not be, but plastic welding finally solved my problem, here's the video: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
Use an epoxy first. Then patch.
I ended up plastic welding the cracks, now I have a permenant solution: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
A better preparation next time bro
to your point prep can always be better. Plastic welding is what did the trick here ultimately... Here's the video: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
A/B epoxy work always
Great tip! I'll have to try it, so far my plastic weld repair is still holding: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
But u didn't give it enough time to cure
I gave it 2 to 3 times as long as what the lable recommended. The Flex products do not last. Now Gorilla Tape, that's another matter... Here's what worked best for me: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
You gotta stop the crack before you put anything on there. Just like a crack in something steel you gotta drill the ends of the cracks and then weld the seam. They make plastic weld also. They do it to automotive plastic bumpers everyday
Agreed, I ultimately did plastic weld them. Here's the video: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
may have to do plastic welding
werewasyo, agree, that's what I did, just been testing the results for a while, stay tuned for the plastic weld video coming soon.
JB Weld Marine Weld Stick
Thanks, also plastic welding ultimately worked, here's the video: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
I want to use this on the top of my badly aged wood pergola slats. 2x4's. Thought it might protect them from any further rot. I dont want to use the liquid for fear of all the dripping down the sides of slats. What do you think??
All my experiences with Flex products has been disappointing. But I am a fan of Gorilla Tape, which has worked well for me in several applications. amzn.to/44Yf3jk It comes in white, black and clear.
I would have sanded some of the plastic down, just scuffed it some, to get a good contact with the flex seal
I did all that, plastic welding was ultimately solved the challenge, here's the video: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
My first attempt would be Vulkum. Especially the smooth (untextured) version. Priming the surface with alcohol or something would be important.
Johan, thanks for the suggestions, will look into these.
@@MakeItorBreakItNow also, why not high grade silicone? Silicone has low toxicity and excels in adhering to plastics.
ua-cam.com/video/G-aQzoHqM80/v-deo.html
silicones- different cure agents are key- acidic cure (vinegar smell) is cheap garbage, alcohol or water cure are far better,
silicone is particularly good at sealing and adhering to plastics, including new plastics which are leaching oils. lexan or plexiglass should only be sealed with silicone. You can never paint over silicone or silicon hybrids.
polyurethane are supposedly more vulnerable to chemical attack, but then silicone the supremely resistant to everything if that's what you're comparing it to.
boatlife life seal is a hybrid sealant which combines silicone and polyurethane.
new class: 3M 4000 uv new poly ether sealant
butyl tape
@@fieldlab4 thanks again for the suggestions, I'll have to try them out.
@@MakeItorBreakItNow My basic approach to doing repairs on plastic like that would be to find a decent adhesive and sealant to use with a sturdy patch piece but not rely on the sealant for adhesion, but knock some holes in it for some kind of screw, pop rivet or fastener which would also be put in with the same adhesive as a sealant.
I understand a rain barrel not working, because it's standing water.... what about the frame of a sloped skylight window, where the water will be running off, and then the roof will be drying out?
Lewis, Flex Paste should work well for your skylight window application. But then again so should a high quality caulk.
I used flex paste works awesome
Derrick, no doubt it works under many circumstances just not this one, although I have an idea about adding some structure I might try soon. Stay tuned.
I was about to buy the item. What is the best glue to seal stepping stone and gap filler?
Maybe good, ole silicon caulk: amzn.to/3RJi2Xm
I may never know what I'm gonna see, Mike, but one thing's for certain, I know I'll always get an honest opinion on the items you review on this channel. So with that said, I certainly didn't think you were harsh in not recommending a product that ultimately failed to do what it was supposed to do.
BTW, I have a question that's not relating to this product, but one that's somewhat similar. One of my nephew's dinosaur toy got dirty, so I decided to wash it. I removed it's rubber neck from its plastic body and filled the neck with water to flush out the gunk inside. What happened was I squeezed the neck too much and the thinnest part of the dinosaur neck formed a bubble that expanded and eventually burst. So now the dinosaur neck has a hole on it and my nephew is none too pleased, heh.
What kind of a glue can I use to fix and to patch up the hole on this thing? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and all.
Ghost, that's a tough question to answer, given I can't see the toy. If its a fairly straight cut or small hole a standard super glue might work. A waterproof tape similar to what you'd repair a tent with might also work. You have less options if the "void" can be seen vice hidden somewhere. And a rough surface can be just as much a challenge as a smooth one. Some folks swear by making a past of superglue and making soda, but I haven't had a chance to test that out yet.
Thanks for your comments, always interesting.
@@MakeItorBreakItNow My little nephew won't let anyone near the "injured" dinosaur, hahaha, so his parents can't take pics when I asked. They got it overseas, but the rubber is akin to those squeeze (almost stress toys) apparatuses, except not as resilient, as this one burst at its weakest point. So yeah, nephew is not too happy, and I can't find a replacement, so am looking to fix it for him.
Still, thanks for your time and advise, Mike. Appreciated, as always!
@@GhostOdyssey sounds almost like a Stretch Armstrong? Did you try Alibaba? They seem to have everything...
@@MakeItorBreakItNow Yes, stretchy, like Stretch Armstrong. Trying Alibaba is a great idea. Thanks! : )
What a scam!!!
Yeah, I tend to agree with you on this one. here's how I ultimately solved the problem:
ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
Did you wait for the paste to cure I think it is 24 to 48 hours before. Did you read the directions
bingers, thanks for your question. Yes I read the directions. I actually waited 3 days, 72 hours, on this test to ensure it was dry.
If used with common sense about limitations flex paste it works great, performed without issue on my 200 gallon pond liner with small holes and cracks.. Sadly availibility of higher end stuff is a problem lately too.
kristopher, makes sense it would work on the pond liner, because you're pushing up against terra firma, the flexing plastic is what did this one in. I did you plastic welding and that worked.
My question is can you paint over this flex paste Also can you texture over the flex paste and then paint
Miguel, You could but the paint has to be flexible since the finished surface has a "rubbery" textue, kind of like caulk.
I wonder if this would work to just seal without the job being under pressure. That is what I want it for. Has anybody tried this. I would be using it to seal a leak from water on a vertical wall.
Julie, working on an update to this video using plastic welding. I think the tape works better than the paste or glue. A year later all my paste applications have pealed off on several surfaces but in most cases the tape i still in place...
@Make It or Break It thanks for the reply, maybe I will go that way. Once again thanks 😉
@@ooGYPSYoo you're quite welcome, again.
It is probably not flexible enough if the crack is expanding under pressure. Fish tank silicon would be better.
Eric, never thought about using fish tank silicon, I'll have to give it a try. Also thinking about plastic welding the bottom.
@@MakeItorBreakItNow It will depend how well silicon will stick to the plastic, seems some plastics need priming to get glues to stick. Silicon sticks very well to glass and withstands a lot of pressure.
@@MakeItorBreakItNow Also the crack could extend past the glued area.
Try there Pool Kit.
I also saw an "hack,, where they used to put the glu on the tape or the paste on the tape and pressd them really hard on it.
Worked for them on the cheap pkastic Pool
Lucer, thanks for the suggestion, certainly worth trying. How big was the pool?
@@MakeItorBreakItNow it was an ok size not like a mini child Pool.
It's from Jeffreviews4u on UA-cam
@@killy99ln thanks, I'll have to check it out.
I have a question. I bought my mom an automatic soap dispenser for her shower. The shower walls are covered in tile so you can't screw the dispenser to the wall.Can i use flex paste to attach the dispenser to the wall
Donna, maybe. You would have to use the right amount, doesn't the dispenser come with mounting instructions.
@@MakeItorBreakItNow yes but i don't want to drill it into tile. The shower is all tile no easy dry wall
Jb weld would do the trick just get the original
DamStr8, thanks for the suggestion. I have some, and will have to give JB Weld a try.
I did see you clean the area and now what ?
Last weekend, I tried plastic welding. Testing the barrels now, I think that's going to the solution that finally works for me. Stay tuned for the follow on video coming out soon...
What about higher heat resistance ?
Not sure I understand your question. Plastic Welding is what solved my problem on these: ua-cam.com/video/IECD0dVc0aA/v-deo.html
Saved me from wasting my money. Thank you
H. you're welcome, I think I solved this problem, finally, using plastic welding. Stay tuned for the video, I'm testing out a couple approaches to see which one works best.
Nothing too harsh, it is what it is...
True, but I think the commercials oversell the pastes' capabilities. Stay tuned for the final, better solution I plan to post soon.
great job. thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you
you're quite welcome!
Did you FULLY clean the surfaces prior to application?
Jeff, yes I did. Thinking about the test a bit more, I guess I could have put it on a couple inches thick and it might have work, but then to me that's not a patch, its a slab. The used a portion of a smaller wooden barrel that really doesn't have much water in it.
@@MakeItorBreakItNow I'm going to try the spray version on my skylight tomorrow, nice and thick.
@@silverestore best of luck, let me know how it works for you. I've tried all their products some applications work some don't...
@@MakeItorBreakItNow I purchased the clear spray instead as I think it's a better application between my roof and skylight because it will seep into every crack. I DON'T like how bloody toxic it is compared to their other products, but I'll be well-protected.
@@silverestore Thanks for the additional info. Agree on the toxic thing. I'll have to try the clear coating.
The problem you're having is, none of those products were designed to work on plastic. I would have to say, your review is only honest in that it failed to patch a material it wasn't designed to patch in the first place.
Donald, the label says it works on plastic, and if you look at some of the videos, they use it on clear plastic.
@@MakeItorBreakItNow they use it on plexiglass, stone, cement and it's only good on certain plastics per their own website.
@@donaldthomas3173 Either way they ,the company, is being deceptive. I was under the very same impression !
@@leahrichards2013 The company was NOT deceptive. They never claimed their products would work for this application. This is why we read labels and research products BEFORE purchasing.
@@donaldthomas3173 After taking I sure didn't mean to cause such upset but in all you'd have to at least admit it's implied. There are far more things I'd rather be doing than reading every $20 label. All my comment was referring to was the Morel end of business and how that is lacking in this day.
Truly I haven't the time to pick people apart. Do go for it though!
God Bless