Excellent video. What makes you stand out from the rest is your sharing of the 'non textbook' DIY difficulties and your thoughts and experience on how to tackle them. As a keen DIYer for many years, your challenges echo and most of all, I am still learning from your generous sharing of knowledge. Thank you
Thanks so much Paul. Making mistakes is reality isn't it. There was a time when I would edit them out thinking it was a mark of failure but I quickly realised they were essential 😉 Thanks so much for that. You have no idea how valuable heart felt comments like this are in an industry where it's often hard to keep up the mojo! 👊
Nice tips there. Another tip if you have countersunk/panne screws and you want to hang say a large painting or heavy mirror, use some washers. The wire/hanging loops can then sit behind the washer so can't be easily pulled off by kids/knocks etc.
Hey Charlie - I used the brass clips with the plugs you mentioned on this video to hang a 21kg mirror and it's changed my life ! Four hooks fastened to the back of the mirror and they then so simply slip onto the brass hooks. Absolute genius. I'd attach a photo but I don't think you can
Tried a few of the plasterboard fixings with no luck, watched this video and bought the wall plugs and the hooks and was done in minutes and solid! Thank you
Thank you, Charlie. FInally managed to get a bracket fixed on our 1970s honeycomb studded wall without hours of frustration, several holes with plasterboard pull out, or eventually putting it on a solid wall and out of place! I am now totally confident my glass fronted bookcases are robustly secured on the wall. These Fisher Duo plugs are fantastic.
Just moved house and had quite a few heavy mirrors / pictures to hang. Those Fischer Duopower fixings are awesome. Never come accross a stronger fixing into a plasterboard wall. Yet again thanks Charlie.
Great Video. It’s so helpful and thoughtfully put together. I particularly like the way you show what’s happening behind the plasterboard. I actually don’t agree with you that you need a fixing tool to use the anchor fixings. You can anchor it to the wall by simply using the flathead screw provided and screwing the anchor fixing tight. That’s why the flathead comes with the washer; so that it can turn freely while you’re anchoring the fixing. Then you simply undo the screw and fix whatever you want onto the wall. Voila and the best fixing into 12mm plasterboard by a country mile.
really helpful - will use this to hang a heavy mirror. we had the problem of the plasterboard fixings coming out continuously with the baby stair gate. so will try this for that aswell.
We moved into an old Victorian home and struggled with the plasterboard and the old original slat/plaster walls when it came to hanging things. At the end, we found it best to scrape out the built up paint on the picture moldings and use those again. I put up more picture moldings in the rooms in which they had been removed. For really heavy objects, I strongly recommend putting up even a thin strip of wood that straddles two struts behind the wall and then use that as your surface to drive through the hook or screw.
I feel so silly. A year ago your video helped me so much. This year I forgot about the tool, ended up damaging the wall. Now ordered the setting tool on amazon and cant wait to fix it tomorrow. Many thanks
Well done. The setting tool is a game changer. Sorry to hear about that. Still, you can repair the damage very easily using Easi-Fill. ua-cam.com/video/6Omsv5-NN9k/v-deo.html Buy the pack that has the 1kg sachets in it.
Bravo Charlie! That's the first succinct, cogent & professional DIY video I've ever seen. I've just moved to a new-build so will be following this advice. Many thanks .....
The metal anchor type fixings are my favourite, use them all the time for hanging all sorts of picture frames. You do not need the fixing gun, all you do is insert them into your drilled hole and tighten the screw up, you will feel the anchor opening up as it gets tighter, snug it down then back the screw out enough to hang your frame. they are great.
Hi charlie, stumbled on your channel yesterday. used the smaller rawl plug and picture hook technique, brilliant advice and now have a heavy pic on a plasterboard wall with zero movement, thanks so much.
I have been commissioned to make a large heavy framed mirror (2"x4") , Nice to see my options, thanks Charlie. I already have the anchor fixings and the setting tool, but will add a more positive 'hooks' to hang onto. I have used flush mount fittings in the past, but split the pair, and use each part as a hook. As a benefit, you can use a couple of screws in each plate.
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. Help support me by Buying me a Coffee ☕ bit.ly/3xuQ3zb and unlock a host of benefits - thanks so much 🙏.
Charlie DIYte hi! This video was great thank you! I was wandering if you have any advice for me.. I’ve recently bought a new build with ‘dot and dab’ plasterboard so the breezeblocks are very close... I’ve found there’s no room for long plugs when I drill my pilot hole.. should i drill a hole in the block behind? I’m looking to put shelving up too but don’t know how to get around this? Many thanks, Dave
Charlie DIYte I found your dot & dab video!!! 😂 would you say for anything smaller / lighter... would you drill a deeper hole through to the block and use the UX6?
Hi Charlie, great video, especially for beginners. I just had a question as to how much load a plasterboard can take vertically as I want to hang a pull bar in a loft conversion but I have never hung anything on a plasterboard wall.
Charlie. Good info. I hung two 5ft by 4.5ft pictures that are close to 15kgs the other day. I went through all of these options in my head and tried a couple on the first picture. I was using 3 heavy duty j hooks with 2 screws on each, for each picture. New Fischer plugs worked best, however when using two in close proximity, they can twist so much that the pressure on the board that it pops in between them causing a nice big hole. Found hand tightening worked very well after this !
Hi Nick. Thanks for this - and great work! Yes, plasterboard is so brittle you want to spread out the holes as much as possible - but I see what you were thinking - trying to double up on the screws to increase the strength. I'd say going forward that if you get the right fixing, one screw should more than suffice.
Excellent. I bought a heavy mirror a few days ago, and I've been looking for some guidance on the best way to make it sure it behaves itself when I hang it up.
Thank you. This was exactly the advice I needed to put up a heavy mirror on a plasterboard wall. I went with the Fischer Duopower plugs, and used the tip about putting a screw through the stronger hangers, and that seems very solid.
Glad to hear that, Steve. They're great fixings those Duopowers. I tend to use the 8x40s rather than the 6x30s. There's a full plasterboard fixings update here is you have a moment ua-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/v-deo.html 👍
This was so brilliant and cannot thank you enough. It was eye opening to understand how the different fixings behave on the other side. My many failed attempts of the past all make sense now 😂 thank you again 😊
Great video Charlie 👍 I've seen many fixture comparison videos bit yours is far and away the clearest with the plasterboard mock up. Interesting to see how the fixtures bunch up behind the wall.
Useful information with great tips. With this video I really knew what I was going to buy (and what was needed for some anchors; anchor setting tool) to hang an heavy mirror with confidence! Thanks Charlie for your video its was a great help!
Thx for this video. The screw threw the middle of the standard picture hook works just brilliantly and I have just hung a heavy mirror using this method and now don’t have to worry that it will fall of the wall at some point in the future. Thank you.
Great work! You're welcome and here's my update video ua-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/v-deo.html The spring toggles are very good. The snap toggles are even better 👍😉
Thank you Charlie, just bought a 5kg wall art and was wondering how to hang it as it is landscape 110cm and has a wire. Your explanation came in handy. Now I am off to get some hooks. Thank you 👍
I watch this multi times as I've been putting up all my mirrors and pictures that require them. I'm putting a heavy statue head on my wall in a bit so watched this again 😁
Thanks so much for the comment Anna. So chuffed you're finding my vids useful. You might check out this one if you've got stuff to fix up into plasterboard ua-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/v-deo.html
This is an amazing video, knowing what’s going on behind the plasterboard gives me a lot more confidence. Gonna grab some of those duopower plugs tomorrow and finally hang some stuff up :)
Fantastic video and detailed explanation. I have just purchased the Anchor fixing and tool. I know the video is 4 years ago nearly, but glad I came across it. Will update if I succeed in hanging my clock!
@@CharlieDIYte Not bad. I purchased hollow wall anchor M5x52mm (not sure what the M5 stands for). Used an 8mm drill bit (more of a guess but it fit nicely). Bought the tool and messed up the first one but the second one was great. And yes, pretty darn solid. Thanks again!
Fantastic Video!! I just bought a metal framed mirror weighing 40 LBS (yes, USA here!), and I was worried I could not hang it securely, but after viewing your video here, I'm feeling confident. I like the metal anchor the best and so I am off to purchase those with the setting tool you used here. Thank you for this great tutorial - I just now 'LIKED' and 'SUBBED'! Anxious to see more of your videos!!
Hi Charlie, great video as usual. I mounted a very large and relatively heavy mirror over the mantelpiece in our sitting room and used the helter-skelter fittings with no problems. I used 4 to be sure to be sure! I also spaced them out to share the load as evenly as possible. I was unaware of the problems and issues you’ve identified with them which has made me consider the actual loading on the fittings I use now in the future eg is the loading vertical or horizontal? The mock ups you use are very educational and if you ever give up the day job you’d make a great teacher! 😉
Hi Mike, sorry I missed this! Many thanks for the comment. Yes absolutely, for vertical loads you're fine with the helter skelter, and you're spot on using 4 just in case , but for horizontal loads I'd avoid it like the plague 🙂
The Fischer Dupower are fantastic. Tried to buy some at Leyland SDM and the bloke I asked said, "I used to work for Fischer & they are the best we don't stock them but Screwfix up the road do'.
Yes they're brilliant. I use them all the time in place of the UX6 I used to use. The 6x30 is too small though in my opinion so the 8x40 is my preferred plug. Just wish they had made a direct replacement for the 6mm dia UX6. A Duopower 6x40 would have removed the need and confusion of having two sizes.
Thanks for the great video, we're new to the UK, coming from South Africa, where everything is brick, so this is very helpful when trying to DIY on a modern build over here!
I have just hung a huge mirror with a very large ornate frame on a plasterboard wall using 2 pieces of laminate flooring that lock together, you could literally hang a lorry off a plasterboard wall using this method which I saw on TikTok, well worth a try if you have really heavy mirrors etc to fix.
Hi, I have just fixed my led tv to a bracket on the wall and after watching your videos I opted for the grip it tv bracket kit. I drilled the huge hole for the blue grip it fixing, just one thank goodness and realised that my wall is double plasterboard thickness of 20mm so I couldn’t use the gripits. I hurriedly repaired the hole and then made my way to b&q for an alternative. I ended up with Fischer wallboard anchors, an awesome choice I have to say, very easy to fit with a 12mm drill but I’m still really confused when u mention the fixing tool in all of your videos. Neither the Fischer or the diall ones had any fixing tools ready to buy with them and when I asked about it in b&q they hadn’t a clue what I was talking about. I simply used my power drill with a screwdriver attachment and kept drilling the screw in until it was fixed which is how it shows to do it on the back of the pack. Please can u clarify I’m really worried that I have missed a step and that the tv is going to somehow fall off the wall?!?
Hi there. Sounds like you've got nothing to worry about! Excellent choice going for the wall anchors, and sorry if I've confused you in my vids. There are two ways to fix wall anchors - see my video here where I outline what those are ua-cam.com/video/e3hjzPNe5wk/v-deo.html. Basically you can do it like you did manually, which is fine when you're screwing through a bracket like you did, and crucially, you have to keep turning the screw until it goes really tight (like you did), because it's only at that point that the anchor umbrella has opened tight behind the plasterboard. The other way to do it is by using the setting tool that you saw in my video. The setting tool is great if you're installing a lot of wall anchors, but for a one off application it's not necessary - which is why I did the video I linked to above. To tighten the fixing like you did, you have to have a turn stop (ie the bracket) between the screw and the anchor itself, otherwise if you try and simply tighten the screw straight into the fixing it will spin around without tightening and make a mess of the wall. The setting tool removes that worry, because it pulls open the anchor behind the plasterboard by levering the screw forward, whereas the way you did it, you were relying on the thread action of the screw to tighten the anchor. Hope that makes sense...
I've hung art professionally for over 25 years and I'm glad you made it look complicated for folks... it's not but that allows me to have a robust work schedule... P.S. Using protruding screws in a wall for a heavy mirror is negligent.. you need a Z-bar.(french cleat)
We use french cleats in the soft furnishings industry to hang headboards so I'm familiar with them. It's a neat idea but you can't always attach them to the rear of the thing you're hanging.
Nice video - just subscribed. I've been fixing stuff up for ages but am always wary of problems. I tend to drill an initial small test hole (say 4mm) if I'm unsure exactly what's behind before doing the correct size hole. Also for some of the more basic plastic type fixings I've sprayed the screw with silicon spray before screwing in to help reduce the likelihood of the fixing spinning in the wall.
Thank you for this excellent, informative video. Showing either side of the wall really helps understanding. I'm about to hang my wife's new, heavy vanity mirror on a freshly painted plasterboard wall. I'm going with the two picture hook approach with UX6 fixings. 😊
Thank you do much have watched many videos and yours seems to be the only 1 that makes sense It can be so daunting learning from scratch things I took for granted my Dad would do 😢
Charlie. Thanks just moved into a house with lots of plaster board walls. These videos extremely helpful on best approach. About to use the use the Fischer duo to secure some Jonaxel (Ikea) wardrobe units to the wall.
Great video and love your channel. But I’m afraid I’m such a beginner that I need something even more basic. I live in a 30s house with... walls. But when you are talking about how to hang a picture on “plasterboard” you’re already assuming I know what plasterboard is. Are all walls plasterboard? They’ve certainly been “plastered”. I’d love a video on “what different kinds of wall are there” so I can even begin to start with videos like these!
Thanks Dan! You'll know your wall is plasterboard, because when you tap it with your knuckles, you'll hear a hollow noise. You have two sorts of plasterboard wall 1) where the plasterboard has been screwed to studwork, and 2) where the plasterboard wall that has been "dot and dabbed" or glued to the solid brickwork behind. A solid wall that has a plaster skim on it will generally have a solid rather than hollow sound. You're not the first person to say that, so I'll bear that in mind!!
Charlie DIYte thanks for that reply. Yep i think in my case it’s plaster directly onto brick - old 1920s house - so this video doesn’t apply but I’ve filed it away in my mind somewhere just in case
I appreciate your video It really help me get a better understanding of what I needed to do to hand my heavy mirror. I decided to create a video list and I will be watching more of your videos.
Thanks Chris. For heavy stuff on plasterboard walls where you can't anchor into the brickwork behind, those metal wall anchors are hard to beat, but watch this vid if you're going to buy them ua-cam.com/video/e3hjzPNe5wk/v-deo.html The Geefix is also a superb fixing for hanging heavy stuff ua-cam.com/video/aeFyQS2NGVM/v-deo.html 👍🏻
Thanks Ben. Check this one out for a definitive run though of fixings and it'd be great to have you subscribe if you haven't already ua-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/v-deo.htmlsi=TaWCzIuj3yRgFGOT 👊
Provided excellent advice as to how to fix a 5.5kg clock to my plasterboard wall. I will be being extra careful and will probably seek out one of those Duo fittings.
Guess I'm a bit late here, from experience I would always use the metal expansion by hand screwing it - I've never seen that tool you have. I run in all the way in with the screw to expand it on the back, then back out the screw and use the hook metal part on the front - at least two sharing the load like you mention. For light pictures the plastic ones seem fine. Great work and a good explanation of how they work.
Fair point, and you obviously found the importance of using a turning stop (possibly the thing you're actually fixing to the wall). The setting tool makes it so much easier though.
thank you very straight forward and illustrative - I am placing a suspension gal frame fora n ikea cabinet which will stick out 60cm from the wall -I will place two wcrews into vertical joists and 3 into the plasterboard using the aussie version of the duopower or the metal ones - it depends on what my local hardware store has!! I will fix one side of the cabinet to the adjacent pantry and the otherside will hang free cheers from Bob down under
Thanks. Some have a clever design whereby you can snap off the front sand push them into the wall. Failing that you can gently drill the front off with a large HSS drill bit and then push it through and fill the hole. 👍
I would advise against banging in the pins on the picture hook either before or after the screw fixing as this will weaken the integrity of the plasterboard and compromise what solidity has been achieved. If you're going through plasterboard there should be a gap of at least an inch between screws but preferably more than that depending on the density and thickness of the board and how carefully you drill and fix. To be honest, for a mirror or heavy picture, I'd designate the area of the wall to be obscured and cut away a large enough square to fit timber patresses behind. You can then refit the chunk removed and make good. if you do this well enough, the repair will be invisible but even if you scrimp on the quality of repair, it'll be hidden behind the mirror anyway. respect nonetheless for the advice given in this vid.
Ive used both the plugs, you cant beat them. Ive also found they work even better dropping the piolot hole down a size and tapping the plugs in with a hammer. You do have to be very carefull. You can even do this with a normal raw plug as long as the plasterboard is new and in good order and load is fairly light. Ie 15mm copper pipe, talon clips. Just have to get the hole size right. 6mm hole, brown raw plug and 2" 10 screw, give it a go.
Hi, just found your channel and wanted to say how fantastic I think your videos and replies to specific questions are - really helpful and much appreciated, thanks
Thanks Paul, I really appreciate that. I try and reply to as much as I can. I think it's an important part of the process, but inevitably there are some that I miss. Many thanks for watching my vids 👍
Good video l personally use anchor fixings and for heavy items drill hole in plasterboard spray into hole with cavity foam fit anchor fixing when set makes a strong job
great vid thanks, however, can I just point out you don't need a setting tool for anchor fixings. At least not on plasterboard. Providing you push it flush to the wall so that it bites into the plaster first (to stop it turning)and then screw the screw the whole way in, the screw itself will collapse the "umbrella" and it will grip exactly as its supposed to. Then just loosen the screw to the desired position.
Hi Charlie, I remember my comment a good while back about the cheaper, more economical plasterboard self drill fixings that you commented on being a poor product. Whilst the instructions for these self feed fixings would lead you to believe the correct method is to whack them straight into the plasterboard with a drill or even by screwdriver, the best method is pilot hole with a 4/5mm drill bit and then screw the fixing in by hand with a flat head screwdriver. This creates less disturbance in the structure of the plasterboard and ensures a snug fix with no butchering. Please try this method, then try the exact same thing that you demonstrated a 3:20 in on this video after. I can appreciate the method explained on most brand instructions for this fixing do not show optimal installation instructions for heavy loads horizontally, the way i've explained above does work, especially for the cost conscious DIYer. I appreciate that in your circumstances as a blind/curtain fitter the cost of say 250 fixings @ £18 from Screwfix vs Anchors (super solid and best fixing available in the UK market for plasterboard fixings) @ £10 for a 20 pack is negligible and can be offset by installation labour but it can be a decent amount saved for the DIYer at home. Again to re-iterate as long as you pilot hole at 4/5mm bit and screw these fixings in by hand flush to the board with a flat head they can be bulletproof for the money they cost and i'd love to see the video footage of the comparison of you drilling the self feeding bit in with a drill with no pilot hole (no criticism this is what the instructions say) vs a little pilot hole and screwing in with a flat head flush. It really is night and day. I'm the proof of the pudding as I have had a 50" sony 2 year old tv held up by 4 of these fixings in my method explained, as well as a 32" tv and 3 x 10ft wide approx picture frames wide with decent thick glass in which I think is a fair representation of what people want to hang up themselves @ home into plasterboard. I can appreciate though that a cost saving of £10/£20 on fixings cannot warrant you worrying about having to go back to a job because the fixing mechanism has failed the application scenario, so anchors are your "go-too" so you never have to visit a job twice. It's just that you're videos are geared towards people that are out of your city so can't hire you and are perhaps looking to install/maintain their own projects. Big thumbs up as I can see the effort that goes into your channel all whilst carrying out your day job and I know how much time it can take. Cheers, love to hear your feedback and take into account the bits I mentioned if you film this subject again. Ryan
That's really interesting, Ryan, and you've reminded me that this is exactly what I used to do (drill a pilot hole rather than self drill) when using these fixings. Don't get me wrong, these fixings work fine when they're taking a purely vertical load - I used them to great effect once, fitting floating shelves in a recess, as all the force of the fixing is pushing down into the plasterboard, so it's not going anywhere. I wonder - are your TVS on flat wall brackets, with the load therefore predominantly vertical, rather than on swing arms? HOWEVER I still wouldn't rely on them when the force is pulling out of the plasterboard, because I still maintain, that when the force is horizontal, not vertical, you've only got 3-4mm of screw thread in plasterboard, which can still shear away given plasterboard is so brittle, whereas something that knots behind the board is much stronger. THAT SAID, as ever, I massively value all the comments on my Channel as they are the source of so much wisdom and useful info, so I WILL do a video comparing the two approaches. I'll give you a shout out, and let you know when I've posted it!! Cheers, Ryan!
Charlie DIYte Hi Charlie, thanks for the response. To confirm my tvs are on flat wall brackets and not extending/swing arm brackets so the load is on the wall flush as opposed to potentially being say 1/4 or 1/2 a metre away from the wall. I see what you are saying, even after applying best practice method of keeping the self feed screw in the board the actual screws included in the box can fail/pull out or bore out the thread of the self feed bit as the load of the item hanging comes further from the wall. I can agree with that as the bits don't have a proper machine thread to screw into like for example the wall anchors. As always theres different applications for different scenarios. I will still use these very good value plasterboard fixings for light duty flush to wall weighted applications but will be using the anchors for when the weigh is further away from the wall. A great use of this is the black piano glass shelves that can be mounted to a wall with the cabling from say a ps4 and sky box hidden if mounted close enough to the bottom of the tv. Because of being glass these things can get heavy with units on them too. Cheers
For those looking for Fischer Duo Power in the US - You can go to Amazon and get a kit for $35+ and it's shipped from Germany or the UK. In the US they are manufactured under the name Hillman. Hillman DuoPower. You can get them on Amazon or at your local Home Depot, at around $8-$16 (for a kit). They even have the Fischer name stamped on the anchor.
Awesome video. I was looking for a vid which demonstartes what a wall fixing does behind the scene and how to properly install the screw into 1. This did the job and more 👌
Thank you so much! Very helpful video as I have a few very heavy mirrors to hang and one picture with a heavy antique frame. I was thinking that I would have to attach a piece of wood to the plaster board as reinforcement (A frame or X frame) but you've made it look a lot simpler!
About 16 years ago I hung a 4 foot x 3 foot 6 ornate mirror using anchors with the brass picture hooks and its still as sound now as it was then. Now I'm looking at another large mirror (about 10kg I would say), supplied with welded chains, and that's why I'm here looking at this video 'cos I wasn't sure about the chain hanging. Having watched this video I'll be using two again and putting each screw through a link.
This video has helped us so much! We are in our first house and don't have a clue what we're doing 😂 who knew it would be so hard to hang things up on the wall!! Another problem we have is that we want to put up some large metal decorative hooks to the wall and we were going to use the duo power anchors. However the 2 screw hole openings on the hook are too narrow to fit a screw that would fit the duo power hooks! Eeek what do we use now?! 🤷♀️🤷♀️😬
We also wanted to put up a coat hook rack, but the only place it can go - as we have a small hallway, has supposedly electrical cables there 😭 we are having no luck at the moment
The visual proofs are great. 2 minutes into the vid, have to say, best video I've ever seen on wall hanging. So many questions answered I've had over the years. Questions: What torque level did you use for the Ryobi drill on the drywall? What is the hand-held setting tool called? Is there an official name for the metal, anchor facing you used? Do you have a grippit fixing video?
Thank you very much for that. This is the video you want to watch for the setting tool bit.ly/2Fa0C36 The metal fixings are called wall anchors (M5 x 52mm is the typical one for 12mm plasterboard). This is my Gripit review bit.ly/3pzx6HF but I never use them as the hole you have to drill is too big, considering the comparatively tiny size of the wing that opens up to secure it in place.
@@CharlieDIYte What setting-tool BRAND do you use? You said you hang curtains for a living. Then you know your stuff. I want the brand you trust the most. I want to use something I can keep for years. Thanks for the responses! BTW. Have you tried the E-Z Anchor 100? ua-cam.com/video/lHb-Tcvkn7M/v-deo.html
Excellent video, thanks Charlie. Thanks for not adding music and an intelligent and comprehensive review. Is there an additional benefit to the Fisher Duopower fixing over the anchor fixing. If you want to remove the fixing it is a lot easier with the Duopower?.
Brilliant video as I was looking a strong fixing to hold coats on a stairway that has drywall so I will try the new fisher, Duopower many thanks Charlie
Thanks Joseph! Yep, the Duopower is going to be my fixing of choice going forward. It was the UX6 - which has got a lot of my subscribers out of trouble with their plasterboard walls, but the Duopower is great because if their marketing is to be believed, you no longer have to worry what you're fixing into, because it works with brick or plasterboard. Make sure your screws are 4mm or 4.5mm diameter - no wider - as you want the fixing to open properly, which it might not do with chunkier screws. Also make sure that the screw is long enough that it goes right through the fixing and out the back, as again, it needs to do this to open up properly.
You're very welcome Robin, thanks for the comment. If you have a small void and then brickwork these are brilliant bit.ly/2RvkVxb For a really heavy load where there's nothing behind the wall to screw into, these are fantastic bit.ly/352tcwB
Great video. I should watched this a long time ago. I dont have a setting tool. Granted I could go pick one up but before I do can you suggest an alternative tool for the job?
Jake check out the video I've just published a few minutes ago. You can do it without the tool but you need to put the bracket on before you tighten the fixing otherwise it will spin around in the hole.
I think I used fixings from Ramset (Universal Anchor) when I mounted the toilet paper holder (after episodes with the kids ripping it off the wall when it was justgthe screws included in the pack). It's nylon and bunches up behind in big twists and is nice and secure.
Those "anchor fixings" are known as "Mollies" in the US. I've been using them for 30 years and never saw a "setting tool" for them before your video. It looks handy, but it's not really needed. You put the anchor in the wall, tighten the screw fully, and that expands the anchor. Then you remove the screw and mount your hook, or back it out partly and hang your wire on it. I've also been hanging things by two (rather than one) anchor points, for years. Not only does it give better support but -- so long as you're careful to keep the two points on a level -- it keeps your picture, mirror, or whatever from being knocked askew.
I was thinking of using these for a bracket for a Smart TV, fairly light so I expect these will work. I used these to fix support brackets onto plasterboard walls for beams that in turn support a clothes horse that support 30-40 lbs I guess of wet washing no problem
Check this out Greg for a comprehensive run through ua-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/v-deo.html You'd probably be best with a snap toggles or for the strongest, a Geefix.
I use a French cleat system for hanging heavy mirrors but I'm a cabinet maker and add the required void to the frame. I didn't bother at home because I like the floating look that it creates with a flush back... If that's not possible then metal keyhole fixings are set into the back of the frame and hook on that way. Cleaning is much easier when you remove the wobbly wire idea.
Hello Charlie this is very useful, may I know what screws/fixings did you use to fix that mirror, I have similar DYI task and thinking what 2 fixings shall I use. Please advise. Many thanks. Marian
That was such an informative video! Great detail on products, such as drill sizes, raw plugs sizes and all their comparisons. Perfect for the occasional DIYer such as myself who has no clue. I can just follow your instructions :-)
Molly metal anchors from esselle or fischer, no doubt the best and strongest in all weather temperature , the fischer plastic can easily spin and loose its grip. Cheers from Stockholm, good show!
Not removable but you can drill the front off with a large HSS bit, and push it into the wall and fill the hole. Also, you don't necessarily need a special tool although it's easier if you do bit.ly/2Fa0C36
@@CharlieDIYte Yer Probably just use holesaw without Pilot Center Drill and bore around anchor. use same holesaw to cutout Plaster piece for patch job also
This video just saved my wife's heavy mirror that I was about to hang, and therefore my life too!! Thanks mate.
Glad to hear it, Alfonso. What did you use in the end?
😆😆
Thank you man. This is inspiring. I hope you are alive.
You can always f26 it lol
🤣🤣 I know tht feeling! I had to do the same today
Excellent video. What makes you stand out from the rest is your sharing of the 'non textbook' DIY difficulties and your thoughts and experience on how to tackle them. As a keen DIYer for many years, your challenges echo and most of all, I am still learning from your generous sharing of knowledge. Thank you
Thanks so much Paul. Making mistakes is reality isn't it. There was a time when I would edit them out thinking it was a mark of failure but I quickly realised they were essential 😉 Thanks so much for that. You have no idea how valuable heart felt comments like this are in an industry where it's often hard to keep up the mojo! 👊
Nice tips there. Another tip if you have countersunk/panne screws and you want to hang say a large painting or heavy mirror, use some washers. The wire/hanging loops can then sit behind the washer so can't be easily pulled off by kids/knocks etc.
Hey Charlie - I used the brass clips with the plugs you mentioned on this video to hang a 21kg mirror and it's changed my life ! Four hooks fastened to the back of the mirror and they then so simply slip onto the brass hooks. Absolute genius. I'd attach a photo but I don't think you can
Hi,
Do you mean you used the picture hook with the ux6 fixing?
I need to hang a 20KG mirror above a staircase and not sure what fixing to use.
Tried a few of the plasterboard fixings with no luck, watched this video and bought the wall plugs and the hooks and was done in minutes and solid! Thank you
Really glad to hear it Sharon. Great work, and thanks for letting me know 👍🏻
Thank you, Charlie. FInally managed to get a bracket fixed on our 1970s honeycomb studded wall without hours of frustration, several holes with plasterboard pull out, or eventually putting it on a solid wall and out of place! I am now totally confident my glass fronted bookcases are robustly secured on the wall. These Fisher Duo plugs are fantastic.
Just moved house and had quite a few heavy mirrors / pictures to hang. Those Fischer Duopower fixings are awesome. Never come accross a stronger fixing into a plasterboard wall. Yet again thanks Charlie.
Great Video. It’s so helpful and thoughtfully put together. I particularly like the way you show what’s happening behind the plasterboard. I actually don’t agree with you that you need a fixing tool to use the anchor fixings. You can anchor it to the wall by simply using the flathead screw provided and screwing the anchor fixing tight. That’s why the flathead comes with the washer; so that it can turn freely while you’re anchoring the fixing. Then you simply undo the screw and fix whatever you want onto the wall. Voila and the best fixing into 12mm plasterboard by a country mile.
really helpful - will use this to hang a heavy mirror. we had the problem of the plasterboard fixings coming out continuously with the baby stair gate. so will try this for that aswell.
Hi Vanessa, so glad you found it useful and thanks for taking the time to comment!
Vanessa KanbifAw
We moved into an old Victorian home and struggled with the plasterboard and the old original slat/plaster walls when it came to hanging things. At the end, we found it best to scrape out the built up paint on the picture moldings and use those again. I put up more picture moldings in the rooms in which they had been removed. For really heavy objects, I strongly recommend putting up even a thin strip of wood that straddles two struts behind the wall and then use that as your surface to drive through the hook or screw.
I feel so silly. A year ago your video helped me so much. This year I forgot about the tool, ended up damaging the wall. Now ordered the setting tool on amazon and cant wait to fix it tomorrow. Many thanks
Well done. The setting tool is a game changer. Sorry to hear about that. Still, you can repair the damage very easily using Easi-Fill. ua-cam.com/video/6Omsv5-NN9k/v-deo.html Buy the pack that has the 1kg sachets in it.
Hi Charlie, thank you ever so much for this video. My mirrors and pictures were sitting on the floor for over a year. Now they are all up. ☺
Hey, are they heavy as 15kg?
Bravo Charlie! That's the first succinct, cogent & professional DIY video I've ever seen. I've just moved to a new-build so will be following this advice. Many thanks .....
The metal anchor type fixings are my favourite, use them all the time for hanging all sorts of picture frames. You do not need the fixing gun, all you do is insert them into your drilled hole and tighten the screw up, you will feel the anchor opening up as it gets tighter, snug it down then back the screw out enough to hang your frame. they are great.
I have watched your video several times and finally got to hang my heavy mirror!!!. Thanks 😊
Yey! Well done and thanks for the comment 👍
Hey, how heavy are we talking?
Hi charlie, stumbled on your channel yesterday. used the smaller rawl plug and picture hook technique, brilliant advice and now have a heavy pic on a plasterboard wall with zero movement, thanks so much.
I have been commissioned to make a large heavy framed mirror (2"x4") , Nice to see my options, thanks Charlie. I already have the anchor fixings and the setting tool, but will add a more positive 'hooks' to hang onto. I have used flush mount fittings in the past, but split the pair, and use each part as a hook. As a benefit, you can use a couple of screws in each plate.
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. Help support me by Buying me a Coffee ☕ bit.ly/3xuQ3zb and unlock a host of benefits - thanks so much 🙏.
Charlie DIYte hi! This video was great thank you! I was wandering if you have any advice for me.. I’ve recently bought a new build with ‘dot and dab’ plasterboard so the breezeblocks are very close... I’ve found there’s no room for long plugs when I drill my pilot hole.. should i drill a hole in the block behind? I’m looking to put shelving up too but don’t know how to get around this? Many thanks, Dave
Charlie DIYte I found your dot & dab video!!! 😂 would you say for anything smaller / lighter... would you drill a deeper hole through to the block and use the UX6?
Fantastic video, and now even with a link. So useful. Thanks Charlie!!
Hi Charlie, great video, especially for beginners. I just had a question as to how much load a plasterboard can take vertically as I want to hang a pull bar in a loft conversion but I have never hung anything on a plasterboard wall.
Charlie.
Good info.
I hung two 5ft by 4.5ft pictures that are close to 15kgs the other day.
I went through all of these options in my head and tried a couple on the first picture. I was using 3 heavy duty j hooks with 2 screws on each, for each picture.
New Fischer plugs worked best, however when using two in close proximity, they can twist so much that the pressure on the board that it pops in between them causing a nice big hole.
Found hand tightening worked very well after this !
Hi Nick. Thanks for this - and great work! Yes, plasterboard is so brittle you want to spread out the holes as much as possible - but I see what you were thinking - trying to double up on the screws to increase the strength. I'd say going forward that if you get the right fixing, one screw should more than suffice.
Such a friendly, practical and understandable video with absolutely no time-wasting BS! Thank you so much!
You're welcome David. Many thanks for the Comment 🙏
Excellent. I bought a heavy mirror a few days ago, and I've been looking for some guidance on the best way to make it sure it behaves itself when I hang it up.
Thanks for that! If it's into plasterboard you might just take a look at these too ua-cam.com/video/aeFyQS2NGVM/v-deo.html
Thank you. This was exactly the advice I needed to put up a heavy mirror on a plasterboard wall. I went with the Fischer Duopower plugs, and used the tip about putting a screw through the stronger hangers, and that seems very solid.
Glad to hear that, Steve. They're great fixings those Duopowers. I tend to use the 8x40s rather than the 6x30s. There's a full plasterboard fixings update here is you have a moment ua-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/v-deo.html 👍
This was so brilliant and cannot thank you enough. It was eye opening to understand how the different fixings behave on the other side. My many failed attempts of the past all make sense now 😂 thank you again 😊
Great video Charlie 👍 I've seen many fixture comparison videos bit yours is far and away the clearest with the plasterboard mock up. Interesting to see how the fixtures bunch up behind the wall.
Thanks - I really appreciate that. I'm planning a 2020 plasterboard fixings update video at some point, but it won't be for a few months.
Useful information with great tips. With this video I really knew what I was going to buy (and what was needed for some anchors; anchor setting tool) to hang an heavy mirror with confidence! Thanks Charlie for your video its was a great help!
Thx for this video. The screw threw the middle of the standard picture hook works just brilliantly and I have just hung a heavy mirror using this method and now don’t have to worry that it will fall of the wall at some point in the future. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing Charlie. I just hung up a heavy picture frame using the spring toggle. Without this video, I won’t even know it exists. 😊
Great work! You're welcome and here's my update video ua-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/v-deo.html The spring toggles are very good. The snap toggles are even better 👍😉
Thank you Charlie, just bought a 5kg wall art and was wondering how to hang it as it is landscape 110cm and has a wire. Your explanation came in handy. Now I am off to get some hooks. Thank you 👍
Two picture hooks method worked a treat for a heavy mirror- it is a super strong fixing. Great video thanks
I watch this multi times as I've been putting up all my mirrors and pictures that require them. I'm putting a heavy statue head on my wall in a bit so watched this again 😁
So what technique did you use and how did it turn out? Did you buy/use the fixing tool?
As a middle aged woman on my own I find your videos invaluable. Thank you !!
Thanks so much for the comment Anna. So chuffed you're finding my vids useful. You might check out this one if you've got stuff to fix up into plasterboard ua-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/v-deo.html
This is an amazing video, knowing what’s going on behind the plasterboard gives me a lot more confidence. Gonna grab some of those duopower plugs tomorrow and finally hang some stuff up :)
Fantastic video and detailed explanation. I have just purchased the Anchor fixing and tool. I know the video is 4 years ago nearly, but glad I came across it. Will update if I succeed in hanging my clock!
Thanks Tobias. Yes please let me know how you get on 👊🏻
@@CharlieDIYte Not bad. I purchased hollow wall anchor M5x52mm (not sure what the M5 stands for). Used an 8mm drill bit (more of a guess but it fit nicely). Bought the tool and messed up the first one but the second one was great. And yes, pretty darn solid. Thanks again!
Fantastic Video!! I just bought a metal framed mirror weighing 40 LBS (yes, USA here!), and I was worried I could not hang it securely, but after viewing your video here, I'm feeling confident. I like the metal anchor the best and so I am off to purchase those with the setting tool you used here. Thank you for this great tutorial - I just now 'LIKED' and 'SUBBED'! Anxious to see more of your videos!!
Thanks, bud! Have a heavy framed puzzle my mom and I did that I want on a wall. This gave me confidence on what to do to hang it securely.
Glad to hear it. Good luck with the job 👊
It's the first time I've seen this channel and really pleased that I have come across it.
Me too.
This video was incredibly helpful and straightforward. My husband and I are trying to hang heavy pictures and your advice has given us confidence 👍
You're welcome Natalie, thanks for letting me know. Here's my updated video if you have a moment ua-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/v-deo.html 👍
Hi Charlie, great video as usual. I mounted a very large and relatively heavy mirror over the mantelpiece in our sitting room and used the helter-skelter fittings with no problems. I used 4 to be sure to be sure! I also spaced them out to share the load as evenly as possible. I was unaware of the problems and issues you’ve identified with them which has made me consider the actual loading on the fittings I use now in the future eg is the loading vertical or horizontal? The mock ups you use are very educational and if you ever give up the day job you’d make a great teacher! 😉
Hi Mike, sorry I missed this! Many thanks for the comment. Yes absolutely, for vertical loads you're fine with the helter skelter, and you're spot on using 4 just in case , but for horizontal loads I'd avoid it like the plague 🙂
The Fischer Dupower are fantastic. Tried to buy some at Leyland SDM and the bloke I asked said, "I used to work for Fischer & they are the best we don't stock them but Screwfix up the road do'.
Yes they're brilliant. I use them all the time in place of the UX6 I used to use. The 6x30 is too small though in my opinion so the 8x40 is my preferred plug. Just wish they had made a direct replacement for the 6mm dia UX6. A Duopower 6x40 would have removed the need and confusion of having two sizes.
Thanks for the great video, we're new to the UK, coming from South Africa, where everything is brick, so this is very helpful when trying to DIY on a modern build over here!
Thanks for that. For a comprehensive run through this is the vid you want to watch ua-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/v-deo.htmlsi=HJOp2qDHN3Ygs13y
I have just hung a huge mirror with a very large ornate frame on a plasterboard wall using 2 pieces of laminate flooring that lock together, you could literally hang a lorry off a plasterboard wall using this method which I saw on TikTok, well worth a try if you have really heavy mirrors etc to fix.
Thanks Tony. I'll check that out.
I swear you have a video for every DIY problem I come across. So helpful and informative, thank you so much! Subscribed
Hi, I have just fixed my led tv to a bracket on the wall and after watching your videos I opted for the grip it tv bracket kit. I drilled the huge hole for the blue grip it fixing, just one thank goodness and realised that my wall is double plasterboard thickness of 20mm so I couldn’t use the gripits. I hurriedly repaired the hole and then made my way to b&q for an alternative. I ended up with Fischer wallboard anchors, an awesome choice I have to say, very easy to fit with a 12mm drill but I’m still really confused when u mention the fixing tool in all of your videos. Neither the Fischer or the diall ones had any fixing tools ready to buy with them and when I asked about it in b&q they hadn’t a clue what I was talking about. I simply used my power drill with a screwdriver attachment and kept drilling the screw in until it was fixed which is how it shows to do it on the back of the pack. Please can u clarify I’m really worried that I have missed a step and that the tv is going to somehow fall off the wall?!?
Hi there. Sounds like you've got nothing to worry about! Excellent choice going for the wall anchors, and sorry if I've confused you in my vids. There are two ways to fix wall anchors - see my video here where I outline what those are ua-cam.com/video/e3hjzPNe5wk/v-deo.html. Basically you can do it like you did manually, which is fine when you're screwing through a bracket like you did, and crucially, you have to keep turning the screw until it goes really tight (like you did), because it's only at that point that the anchor umbrella has opened tight behind the plasterboard. The other way to do it is by using the setting tool that you saw in my video. The setting tool is great if you're installing a lot of wall anchors, but for a one off application it's not necessary - which is why I did the video I linked to above.
To tighten the fixing like you did, you have to have a turn stop (ie the bracket) between the screw and the anchor itself, otherwise if you try and simply tighten the screw straight into the fixing it will spin around without tightening and make a mess of the wall. The setting tool removes that worry, because it pulls open the anchor behind the plasterboard by levering the screw forward, whereas the way you did it, you were relying on the thread action of the screw to tighten the anchor.
Hope that makes sense...
You could have used the Gripits, you just have to get the undercut tool.
I've hung art professionally for over 25 years and I'm glad you made it look complicated for folks... it's not but that allows me to have a robust work schedule...
P.S. Using protruding screws in a wall for a heavy mirror is negligent.. you need a Z-bar.(french cleat)
We use french cleats in the soft furnishings industry to hang headboards so I'm familiar with them. It's a neat idea but you can't always attach them to the rear of the thing you're hanging.
This is a very useful information as I have recently moved to Manchester and that solve many of hanging problem. Thx Charlie, you are a life saver.
You're welcome. For a comprehensive run through check out this updated video ua-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/v-deo.html
Nice video - just subscribed. I've been fixing stuff up for ages but am always wary of problems. I tend to drill an initial small test hole (say 4mm) if I'm unsure exactly what's behind before doing the correct size hole. Also for some of the more basic plastic type fixings I've sprayed the screw with silicon spray before screwing in to help reduce the likelihood of the fixing spinning in the wall.
Great presentation. Thank you for the time and effort you took to make this video and share it with us. Greetings from Croatia.
Thank you for this excellent, informative video. Showing either side of the wall really helps understanding. I'm about to hang my wife's new, heavy vanity mirror on a freshly painted plasterboard wall. I'm going with the two picture hook approach with UX6 fixings. 😊
You're welcome. Check this one out for a comprehensive run though if all the options ua-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/v-deo.htmlsi=Cee-y-x9fDKbkMQe
Clear instructions. Thank you. You've ensured my curtain rails don't fall down!
Excellent. Glad to hear it 👍
Thanks for the video. Never knew plasterboard screws could be so interesting
Thank you do much have watched many videos and yours seems to be the only 1 that makes sense
It can be so daunting learning from scratch things I took for granted my Dad would do 😢
Charlie. Thanks just moved into a house with lots of plaster board walls. These videos extremely helpful on best approach. About to use the use the Fischer duo to secure some Jonaxel (Ikea) wardrobe units to the wall.
Great video and love your channel. But I’m afraid I’m such a beginner that I need something even more basic. I live in a 30s house with... walls. But when you are talking about how to hang a picture on “plasterboard” you’re already assuming I know what plasterboard is. Are all walls plasterboard? They’ve certainly been “plastered”. I’d love a video on “what different kinds of wall are there” so I can even begin to start with videos like these!
Thanks Dan! You'll know your wall is plasterboard, because when you tap it with your knuckles, you'll hear a hollow noise. You have two sorts of plasterboard wall 1) where the plasterboard has been screwed to studwork, and 2) where the plasterboard wall that has been "dot and dabbed" or glued to the solid brickwork behind. A solid wall that has a plaster skim on it will generally have a solid rather than hollow sound. You're not the first person to say that, so I'll bear that in mind!!
Charlie DIYte thanks for that reply. Yep i think in my case it’s plaster directly onto brick - old 1920s house - so this video doesn’t apply but I’ve filed it away in my mind somewhere just in case
I appreciate your video
It really help me get a better understanding of what I needed to do to hand my heavy mirror.
I decided to create a video list and I will be watching more of your videos.
Thanks Tony. Here's the most recent update that tells you everything you need to know ua-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/v-deo.html 👊
Thank you! I have a VERY heavy old framed dresser mirror to hang on the wall. I favor using the umbrella anchor.
Yes that'll do a good job.
That was so good. Hanging a really heavy mirror, this advice is superb
Thanks Chris. For heavy stuff on plasterboard walls where you can't anchor into the brickwork behind, those metal wall anchors are hard to beat, but watch this vid if you're going to buy them ua-cam.com/video/e3hjzPNe5wk/v-deo.html The Geefix is also a superb fixing for hanging heavy stuff ua-cam.com/video/aeFyQS2NGVM/v-deo.html 👍🏻
This has been very useful. I love the clear instructions and the visual demonstrations. Thanks for the tips👍🏽
Very nice info. video. Thanks!! I'm going to have my husband watch this, so we can hang shelves easier!
Great vid - its now changed the way I hang up heavy artwork - Thanks, Charlie!
Excellent video. I’m completely new to dyi or even anything related, so this was absolutely ideal. Thank you.
Thanks Ben. Check this one out for a definitive run though of fixings and it'd be great to have you subscribe if you haven't already ua-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/v-deo.htmlsi=TaWCzIuj3yRgFGOT 👊
Provided excellent advice as to how to fix a 5.5kg clock to my plasterboard wall. I will be being extra careful and will probably seek out one of those Duo fittings.
Guess I'm a bit late here, from experience I would always use the metal expansion by hand screwing it - I've never seen that tool you have. I run in all the way in with the screw to expand it on the back, then back out the screw and use the hook metal part on the front - at least two sharing the load like you mention. For light pictures the plastic ones seem fine. Great work and a good explanation of how they work.
Fair point, and you obviously found the importance of using a turning stop (possibly the thing you're actually fixing to the wall). The setting tool makes it so much easier though.
@@CharlieDIYte omg what is that setting tool and screw called I cannot find it anywhere
thank you very straight forward and illustrative - I am placing a suspension gal frame fora n ikea cabinet which will stick out 60cm from the wall -I will place two wcrews into vertical joists and 3 into the plasterboard using the aussie version of the duopower or the metal ones - it depends on what my local hardware store has!! I will fix one side of the cabinet to the adjacent pantry and the otherside will hang free cheers from Bob down under
Sounds like a good plan Doc. Good luck 👍
Perfect timing on this vid! I have a large, very heavy picture to hang and this gave me the BEST info on how best to do the job!
This is so helpful, i have a really heavy wall mirror that needs to be put up. But was scared it falls down. These offer me a bit of security 😁
I've been using duo power from fischer for a few years n its amazingly strong. Bit more expensive but does the trick.
Also remember🤔 that once you install those anchor fixings, they are in for good! There is no removing them. Great Vid! Thanks so much👍😉🇨🇦
Thanks. Some have a clever design whereby you can snap off the front sand push them into the wall. Failing that you can gently drill the front off with a large HSS drill bit and then push it through and fill the hole. 👍
I would advise against banging in the pins on the picture hook either before or after the screw fixing as this will weaken the integrity of the plasterboard and compromise what solidity has been achieved. If you're going through plasterboard there should be a gap of at least an inch between screws but preferably more than that depending on the density and thickness of the board and how carefully you drill and fix. To be honest, for a mirror or heavy picture, I'd designate the area of the wall to be obscured and cut away a large enough square to fit timber patresses behind. You can then refit the chunk removed and make good. if you do this well enough, the repair will be invisible but even if you scrimp on the quality of repair, it'll be hidden behind the mirror anyway. respect nonetheless for the advice given in this vid.
Really cool to see how the Duopower performed. I have the fixings with the setting tool, but nice to see other options.
Ive used both the plugs, you cant beat them. Ive also found they work even better dropping the piolot hole down a size and tapping the plugs in with a hammer. You do have to be very carefull. You can even do this with a normal raw plug as long as the plasterboard is new and in good order and load is fairly light. Ie 15mm copper pipe, talon clips. Just have to get the hole size right. 6mm hole, brown raw plug and 2" 10 screw, give it a go.
Hi, just found your channel and wanted to say how fantastic I think your videos and replies to specific questions are - really helpful and much appreciated, thanks
Thanks Paul, I really appreciate that. I try and reply to as much as I can. I think it's an important part of the process, but inevitably there are some that I miss. Many thanks for watching my vids 👍
Good video l personally use anchor fixings and for heavy items drill hole in plasterboard spray into hole with cavity foam fit anchor fixing when set makes a strong job
great vid thanks, however, can I just point out you don't need a setting tool for anchor fixings. At least not on plasterboard. Providing you push it flush to the wall so that it bites into the plaster first (to stop it turning)and then screw the screw the whole way in, the screw itself will collapse the "umbrella" and it will grip exactly as its supposed to. Then just loosen the screw to the desired position.
Hi Charlie,
I remember my comment a good while back about the cheaper, more economical plasterboard self drill fixings that you commented on being a poor product.
Whilst the instructions for these self feed fixings would lead you to believe the correct method is to whack them straight into the plasterboard with a drill or even by screwdriver, the best method is pilot hole with a 4/5mm drill bit and then screw the fixing in by hand with a flat head screwdriver. This creates less disturbance in the structure of the plasterboard and ensures a snug fix with no butchering.
Please try this method, then try the exact same thing that you demonstrated a 3:20 in on this video after.
I can appreciate the method explained on most brand instructions for this fixing do not show optimal installation instructions for heavy loads horizontally, the way i've explained above does work, especially for the cost conscious DIYer.
I appreciate that in your circumstances as a blind/curtain fitter the cost of say 250 fixings @ £18 from Screwfix vs Anchors (super solid and best fixing available in the UK market for plasterboard fixings) @ £10 for a 20 pack is negligible and can be offset by installation labour but it can be a decent amount saved for the DIYer at home.
Again to re-iterate as long as you pilot hole at 4/5mm bit and screw these fixings in by hand flush to the board with a flat head they can be bulletproof for the money they cost and i'd love to see the video footage of the comparison of you drilling the self feeding bit in with a drill with no pilot hole (no criticism this is what the instructions say) vs a little pilot hole and screwing in with a flat head flush. It really is night and day.
I'm the proof of the pudding as I have had a 50" sony 2 year old tv held up by 4 of these fixings in my method explained, as well as a 32" tv and 3 x 10ft wide approx picture frames wide with decent thick glass in which I think is a fair representation of what people want to hang up themselves @ home into plasterboard.
I can appreciate though that a cost saving of £10/£20 on fixings cannot warrant you worrying about having to go back to a job because the fixing mechanism has failed the application scenario, so anchors are your "go-too" so you never have to visit a job twice.
It's just that you're videos are geared towards people that are out of your city so can't hire you and are perhaps looking to install/maintain their own projects.
Big thumbs up as I can see the effort that goes into your channel all whilst carrying out your day job and I know how much time it can take. Cheers, love to hear your feedback and take into account the bits I mentioned if you film this subject again.
Ryan
That's really interesting, Ryan, and you've reminded me that this is exactly what I used to do (drill a pilot hole rather than self drill) when using these fixings. Don't get me wrong, these fixings work fine when they're taking a purely vertical load - I used them to great effect once, fitting floating shelves in a recess, as all the force of the fixing is pushing down into the plasterboard, so it's not going anywhere. I wonder - are your TVS on flat wall brackets, with the load therefore predominantly vertical, rather than on swing arms?
HOWEVER I still wouldn't rely on them when the force is pulling out of the plasterboard, because I still maintain, that when the force is horizontal, not vertical, you've only got 3-4mm of screw thread in plasterboard, which can still shear away given plasterboard is so brittle, whereas something that knots behind the board is much stronger.
THAT SAID, as ever, I massively value all the comments on my Channel as they are the source of so much wisdom and useful info, so I WILL do a video comparing the two approaches. I'll give you a shout out, and let you know when I've posted it!!
Cheers, Ryan!
Charlie DIYte Hi Charlie, thanks for the response.
To confirm my tvs are on flat wall brackets and not extending/swing arm brackets so the load is on the wall flush as opposed to potentially being say 1/4 or 1/2 a metre away from the wall.
I see what you are saying, even after applying best practice method of keeping the self feed screw in the board the actual screws included in the box can fail/pull out or bore out the thread of the self feed bit as the load of the item hanging comes further from the wall.
I can agree with that as the bits don't have a proper machine thread to screw into like for example the wall anchors.
As always theres different applications for different scenarios. I will still use these very good value plasterboard fixings for light duty flush to wall weighted applications but will be using the anchors for when the weigh is further away from the wall. A great use of this is the black piano glass shelves that can be mounted to a wall with the cabling from say a ps4 and sky box hidden if mounted close enough to the bottom of the tv. Because of being glass these things can get heavy with units on them too.
Cheers
Ryan Cooper Exactly! Great plan Ryan.
Great video. Plus you've given me a great idea for hanging a 6kg picture using the Fischer Duo Power. Thank you.
This vid was invaluable...many thanks! Had to hang a relatively heavy mirror in our new house. Curtain poles next ... 🙄
Cheers Dan. Glad you found it useful.👍🏻
For those looking for Fischer Duo Power in the US - You can go to Amazon and get a kit for $35+ and it's shipped from Germany or the UK. In the US they are manufactured under the name Hillman. Hillman DuoPower. You can get them on Amazon or at your local Home Depot, at around $8-$16 (for a kit). They even have the Fischer name stamped on the anchor.
That's incredibly valuable advice. Thanks for sharing 🙏👍🏻
Awesome video. I was looking for a vid which demonstartes what a wall fixing does behind the scene and how to properly install the screw into 1. This did the job and more 👌
Thank you so much! Very helpful video as I have a few very heavy mirrors to hang and one picture with a heavy antique frame. I was thinking that I would have to attach a piece of wood to the plaster board as reinforcement (A frame or X frame) but you've made it look a lot simpler!
No you should be fine, particularly with one of those metal hollow wall anchors.
About 16 years ago I hung a 4 foot x 3 foot 6 ornate mirror using anchors with the brass picture hooks and its still as sound now as it was then. Now I'm looking at another large mirror (about 10kg I would say), supplied with welded chains, and that's why I'm here looking at this video 'cos I wasn't sure about the chain hanging. Having watched this video I'll be using two again and putting each screw through a link.
This video has helped us so much! We are in our first house and don't have a clue what we're doing 😂 who knew it would be so hard to hang things up on the wall!! Another problem we have is that we want to put up some large metal decorative hooks to the wall and we were going to use the duo power anchors. However the 2 screw hole openings on the hook are too narrow to fit a screw that would fit the duo power hooks! Eeek what do we use now?! 🤷♀️🤷♀️😬
We also wanted to put up a coat hook rack, but the only place it can go - as we have a small hallway, has supposedly electrical cables there 😭 we are having no luck at the moment
The visual proofs are great. 2 minutes into the vid, have to say, best video I've ever seen on wall hanging. So many questions answered I've had over the years. Questions: What torque level did you use for the Ryobi drill on the drywall? What is the hand-held setting tool called? Is there an official name for the metal, anchor facing you used? Do you have a grippit fixing video?
Thank you very much for that. This is the video you want to watch for the setting tool bit.ly/2Fa0C36 The metal fixings are called wall anchors (M5 x 52mm is the typical one for 12mm plasterboard). This is my Gripit review bit.ly/3pzx6HF but I never use them as the hole you have to drill is too big, considering the comparatively tiny size of the wing that opens up to secure it in place.
@@CharlieDIYte What setting-tool BRAND do you use? You said you hang curtains for a living. Then you know your stuff. I want the brand you trust the most. I want to use something I can keep for years. Thanks for the responses! BTW. Have you tried the E-Z Anchor 100? ua-cam.com/video/lHb-Tcvkn7M/v-deo.html
Excellent video, thanks Charlie. Thanks for not adding music and an intelligent and comprehensive review. Is there an additional benefit to the Fisher Duopower fixing over the anchor fixing. If you want to remove the fixing it is a lot easier with the Duopower?.
Brilliant video as I was looking a strong fixing to hold coats on a stairway that has drywall so I will try the new fisher, Duopower many thanks Charlie
Thanks Joseph! Yep, the Duopower is going to be my fixing of choice going forward. It was the UX6 - which has got a lot of my subscribers out of trouble with their plasterboard walls, but the Duopower is great because if their marketing is to be believed, you no longer have to worry what you're fixing into, because it works with brick or plasterboard. Make sure your screws are 4mm or 4.5mm diameter - no wider - as you want the fixing to open properly, which it might not do with chunkier screws. Also make sure that the screw is long enough that it goes right through the fixing and out the back, as again, it needs to do this to open up properly.
Great video, very helpful. Interesting to see how the fixings work behind the scenes!
Thanks!
Found this, and your other video helpful. Realised one could use a hollow wall anchor, employ a screw driver to secure it and add a picture hook.
Glad you found it useful. 👍
You are quite simply giving me piece of mind on my new build plaster walls fixings etcs thank you thank you thank you
You're very welcome Robin, thanks for the comment. If you have a small void and then brickwork these are brilliant bit.ly/2RvkVxb For a really heavy load where there's nothing behind the wall to screw into, these are fantastic bit.ly/352tcwB
Great video. I should watched this a long time ago. I dont have a setting tool. Granted I could go pick one up but before I do can you suggest an alternative tool for the job?
I went out and bought one. Life changing 👍👍
Jake check out the video I've just published a few minutes ago. You can do it without the tool but you need to put the bracket on before you tighten the fixing otherwise it will spin around in the hole.
Thank you so much for these terrific videos - you are a complete hero!
Aw thanks so much Linda - and thank YOU for taking the time to get in touch - it's the life blood of my channel 👏👏
I think I used fixings from Ramset (Universal Anchor) when I mounted the toilet paper holder (after episodes with the kids ripping it off the wall when it was justgthe screws included in the pack). It's nylon and bunches up behind in big twists and is nice and secure.
Those "anchor fixings" are known as "Mollies" in the US. I've been using them for 30 years and never saw a "setting tool" for them before your video. It looks handy, but it's not really needed. You put the anchor in the wall, tighten the screw fully, and that expands the anchor. Then you remove the screw and mount your hook, or back it out partly and hang your wire on it.
I've also been hanging things by two (rather than one) anchor points, for years. Not only does it give better support but -- so long as you're careful to keep the two points on a level -- it keeps your picture, mirror, or whatever from being knocked askew.
Excellent video, very cool idea using the conventional picture hook in that way. Big fan of those Fischer duo’s also!
I was thinking of using these for a bracket for a Smart TV, fairly light so I expect these will work. I used these to fix support brackets onto plasterboard walls for beams that in turn support a clothes horse that support 30-40 lbs I guess of wet washing no problem
Check this out Greg for a comprehensive run through ua-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/v-deo.html You'd probably be best with a snap toggles or for the strongest, a Geefix.
I use a French cleat system for hanging heavy mirrors but I'm a cabinet maker and add the required void to the frame. I didn't bother at home because I like the floating look that it creates with a flush back... If that's not possible then metal keyhole fixings are set into the back of the frame and hook on that way. Cleaning is much easier when you remove the wobbly wire idea.
Hello Charlie this is very useful, may I know what screws/fixings did you use to fix that mirror, I have similar DYI task and thinking what 2 fixings shall I use. Please advise. Many thanks. Marian
Thanks Marian. Are you drilling into brickwork or plasterboard?
@@CharlieDIYte This time to plasterboard, perhaps before doing it I shall buy ‘stud finder’ any recommendations?
@@CharlieDIYte Also mirror is only 5kg, 40cm s 120cm so I assume 2 x Fischer UX-6 will do 👌
That was such an informative video! Great detail on products, such as drill sizes, raw plugs sizes and all their comparisons. Perfect for the occasional DIYer such as myself who has no clue. I can just follow your instructions :-)
Molly metal anchors from esselle or fischer, no doubt the best and strongest in all weather temperature , the fischer plastic can easily spin and loose its grip. Cheers from Stockholm, good show!
A Really Well done video. I will likely go with the old fashioned silver metal anchors. Thank you so much !!!!
Good demo. The metal anchor that needs a special tool to fit to wall are they removable if you say don’t need a mirror hung there anymore?
Not removable but you can drill the front off with a large HSS bit, and push it into the wall and fill the hole. Also, you don't necessarily need a special tool although it's easier if you do bit.ly/2Fa0C36
@@CharlieDIYte Yer Probably just use holesaw without Pilot Center Drill and bore around anchor. use same holesaw to cutout Plaster piece for patch job also
Thank you. I need this information to hang heavy decorations inside of my manufactured home. It’s only a quarter inch drywall
You're welcome. Here's my comprehensive run through ua-cam.com/video/Jdu9RId7m90/v-deo.htmlsi=0IlDd9MibxK_YOyt