Bruce, what you are doing for the "Lightroom-deficient" photographic community is just astonishing and I cannot thank you enough. It goes without saying that your darkroom tutorial series is by far the best and most in-depth out there. Thank you once again. Are you planning anything special for the 100th episode of the series?
Woah, please excuse my rather lame reply. On a mobile device, I did not realise that you had made a monetary contribution, Liza. Thanks you so much. Greatly appreciated!
Hi Bruce, I bought my first PC in 1996 and have always shot Jpegs but I have taken the plunge and moved to Mac OS which at first was a bit overwhelming but getting to grips. Browsing the internet I came across Darktable and having the facility to shoot RAW images on both my camera and my phone decided to give it a go. Thank you for taking the time to give the clinically ignorant a thorough explanation for starting out in Darktable. I'm sure that my journey through RAW editing will be improved by your unselfish contributions. Thanks again.
Perfect timing for me this, Bruce. I've just been reading through the user manual while working out how best to jump ship from Apple's Aperture to darktable + a self-hosted sharing app like PhotoStructure or PhotoPrism. This series of videos will clearly come in very handy for me, thank you. I'm looking forward to getting back into photography (being without future-proof editing tools has put me off for a few years now)!
Thank you for your commitment to help us newbies. I have no background knowledge of photo editing software which at the present makes darktable a daunting challenge. Without your help I doubt would undertake using this powerful software. Your presentations make all the difference. Thank you.
Changing "folder" and "image' to "add to library" and "copy and import" was a really classy move. It makes the program less intuitive and user friendly for those new users. By all means, we need to confuse them as much as possible. I kid I kid, lopl.
The library is just darktable's way of describing the images that it knows about. That's all. So, yeah, go ahead and add a folder of images to your library. Then, in the collections module, instead of using film roll as the search criteria, drop that menu down and select folder. And voila! You can browse by folder!
Hi Bruce, great videos! Just bought a new PC as my old laptop is about to fall over. What I found was lat my old Lightroom 6 is no longer available to download from Adobe, even though I bought it outright some time ago. Not willing to pay monthly, I've just found darktable, WOW so pleaseed with it. Early days but hey, I'll get there...eventually. Keep up the good work it's much appreciated.
Phil, welcome to the dark side! :) I was in pretty much the same boat 6 years ago. Wanted out of the windoze ecosystem, and was interested in linux. My first thing was to find something which could replace LR. dt was my third exploration (after raw therapee and digikam) and I immediately saw the potential even though I didn't know how to use it then. Dived in, and never looked back.
Great series, Bruce. I am moving away from Lightroom and know now where I am moving to. Thanks for the precise and understandable instruction. Keep it up.
@@audio2u I have an issue with finding the original RAW file once I have converted to B&W and exported. If I want to edit in another way I cannot find that RAW file I only see the B&W jpeg??
You can use the Collections module to search based on all different kinds of criteria, including folder location. Try starting there and see how you go.
Hi Bruce. I'm new to DarkTable (v3.6.2), and I use a Sony RX100VI and don't have a second camera. I'm finding once I import an image and switch over to darkroom, the image is applied a number of module presets which ends up washing out the colors dramatically, details are lost, and the contrast is dialed way down. The thumbnail on lighttable looks good until it's brought into darkroom. From your videos, that doesn't seems to be the case for most. I was curious if you would address, or have already addressed, this issue in one of your videos? Thanks much!
Yes, I've addressed this multiple times in the past! 😃 When you import a RAW file into darktable, the preview in lifestyle is the in-camera jpeg. The moment you open that image in the darkroom, darktable sets the raw file back to its defaults so that you can start developing (from the neg, as it were). And the 8-9 modules you see activated by default are all the steps necessary to turn a RAW file into a viewable image. All other image editing software does this, but only darktable lets you see those steps. Hope this helps.
Thanks Bruce very helpful and easy to understand. Just wanted to find out how to change the color of grid lines I saw it on one of your episodes but not sure which one. eg. Grid lines when you crop and rotate
You're welcome! darktable (ALWAYS lowercase) is a very powerful piece of software, but unlike Lightroom, it won't hold you hand. It expects you to delve into understanding a little bit of colour science. I've likened it in previous videos to the difference between getting under the hood and tweaking the engine of your car vs just hopping in and driving your car. :)
Hi Bruce perfect what are you doing Darktable great thanks a lot. I want to ask if it is possible to compose multiple exposures in Darktable. Thank you very much Jaroslav.
Hello, thank you very much for a nice introduction with a well-chosen sample of the program's many functions - great for a beginner like me. Best regards, Niels, Denmark
Welcome to the dark side! :) Honestly, once you've wrapped your head around what darktable is capable of, you'll wonder why it took you so long to find it!
Hello, When I try to import my usb does not show up. I have like 20 or so photos on a folder on the usb and I don’t see it pop up when i try to import. I only see existing files on my computer.
To see the modules, you need to click on the hamburger (just below the histogram). This will invoke the module manager. To see a single image, click F for fullscreen toggle.
Thanks, a useful refresher as I’m interested in using the RAW file editor in DT to confirm that it’s more comprehensive than the one in Affinity Photo!
On windows (sorry), it kept uploading to my onedrive folder which is not writable by an app. The docs are useless for this - there is no info about editing an environment variable. I found the answer in an older youtube of yours. Thank you. BTW, I wish the manual would include some pictures to help you find the tab it's referring to. I have watched your youtube #100 several times. I have to keep stopping it to figure out where the tab you are referring to is and make notes. I am computer literate but darktable is gnarly.
Hey Bruce, thanks for taking the time to put these videos together! Certainly helps newbs like me. One thing I'm struggling with is that when I bring up my photos for editing, the color is way off. It only does this for my raw photos (I have some photos that I shot Raw + JPG, so I can compare the outcome now, and the JPGs look fine). I'm shooting a Canon EOS Rebel T5. Anyone have any ideas for updating the raw converter/profile information to get better/accurate colors?
I really have to remember to mention this when I do a newbies video. So, when you import a RAW file into darktable, the preview you see is the camera-generated jpeg. But the moment you load that RAW file into the darkroom view, the camera-generated jpeg is discarded and you are seeing the ACTUAL RAW data, without any processing. Think about it... you wouldn't want to load up the RAW and still be looking at the jpeg version of it, right? So you're now in a position to start editing the RAW from scratch.
The import dialogue box has two options. 1. Add to library. This will leave the images where they are currently located on your file system, and will simply reference the files where they are currently located. 2. Copy and import. This is what you should use if you are importing from a memory card (or any other device which will NOT remain permanently attached to your computer). This will actually make COPIES of the images and store them on your file system where you tell it to. In neither situation will images be removed from their original location.
I assume you mean "...into darktable". And the answer is no. Images are not "copied into darktable" ever. It's a database. And what THAT means is that it simply knows where images live on your filesystem, and allows you to view them and edit them from with the dt interface.
Hi Bruce, first of all, thank you so much for your videos. They were such a big help to get startet and find out a lot about this massive software. I tried it a couple of times in the past but it always felt so overhelming and thanks to your videos I now had a lot of fun editing my wedding pictures! I´ve got a Question for you: Is there something in Darktable where you can sorf of blend one part of a picture onto a different picture. For example, if you have a series of pictures with peoples eyes open and closed on different frames. Could you create one picture where everybodys eyes are open?
Thanks for the kind words. No, darktable isn't designed f for compositing work. For that kind of work, you would need gimp or affinity photo or something else like that.
Question: If raw image files are moved to another folder after editing in darktable, will the modifications "follow" the images to the new folder, or are steps needed to re-link the images to the sidecars?
If you move the RAW files without darktable knowing you did it (you SHOULD be using the 'move' function in the Selected Images module), then darktable will be showing skulls. If you move the xmp file at the same time as the RAW file, then you will be able to reimport the RAW file into darktable at its new location, and all your previous edits will be intact.
Thanks for that. Is there any way to connect Darktable to the Apple Photos app on my Mac and to the same bunch of Apple Photos on my Windows machine (which does download the photos, albeit, unsorted, via the Windows iCloud app). Because of certain personal reasons I need to work on both the machines. And as a beginner, for now, I use my iPhone.
Hi Bruce, thanks for this video. I wonder what the release of version 3.6 and using the scene referred workflow means to video Ep #71, the 10 beginners modules to start with. Are these still the best modules to start with as a beginner?
To be honest, I would have to go back and watch that video in order to answer that! Most likely not. The best bet, which I did cover in this video, is to choose from the module group presets either "beginner" or "scene-referred".
Hello, I'm using Darktable for years but it always have way more tools that I even looked into. What is the current recommendation for input profiles? I use 'standard color matrix' and "linear Rec709 RGB" as a working profile, use sRGB as an output and photos always look muted and less bright when I import them to Gimp to bring them to web size and do final sharpening. Is it just because Darktable is dark and I use a light grey theme in Gimp?
The profiles you are using sound right to me. When you open your image in gimp, what profile is gimp using? It may be using a profile with a wider color space than the sRGB you exhorted at from darktable, which would explain the muted colors. Also, why don't you set your web resolution in darktable at the time of export? It would save an unnecessary step going into gimp.
@@audio2u Gimp uses the embedded profile it says. It does use the color profile for my monitor and I never found where to put it in Darktable. Looks a bit differently if I disable it in Gimp. That's a good question, I've set up this routine years ago so don't really remember. But if Darktable does all its corrections on a full scale photo and then makes it 1200px on the long side, wouldn't it need sharpening afterwards?
Hello Marta. May I start with this. Darktable is an excellent tool when used properly. But that caveat is important when used properly. Darktable is like giving a child a knife, they can also do a lot of damage with it, as well as cut the food on their plate. I would suggest you choose your source of darktable education carefully, as even some of the supposedly knowledgeable individuals, could lead you down a path, where you make inadvertent mistakes, and the fault is yours alone, not darktable's. I suggest you read the darktable manual, which will correct any errors you may be taught, especially here on youtube where there is no peer review or vetting of anything that anyone says. Anyone can publish anything on UA-cam, and have lots of views, even if the information is innaccurate. To your specific problem. Typically you should not need to change the default settings for the input profile, which sets the working profile to "linear Rec2020". Changing the working profile to "linear Rec709 RGB" will cause your images to be degraded. So in simple terms, for some reason, you have chosen the wrong settings, and that is the specific reason you are not getting the results you expect - user error and in this case - you own user error. There is a default icon on every module, which will allow you to take the settings back to the default in your images. Please do be careful - darktable is a really good tool, but like a car or a knife, only when used as intended. With all due respect I am certain and somewhat surprised that William was incorrect, when he states, in response to your enquiry, that your modified profile is correct. Could have been an oversight on his part, not fully reading or understanding what your problem is - But this is UA-cam, anyone can make mistakes. As long as its not medical advice or financial advice, hopefully not too much damage done.
My biggest issue with Darktable is the lousy way it handles 'collections'. I should be able to add to the library without having to again drill down in 'collections' to the subfolders I've just added. If I add a folder, it should just appear in the list. But it doesn't. It resets to 'files' every time. It's frustrating to the point of maddening. Am I missing something?
No, you're not missing anything. It would be nice if there was a preference to force collective to always show folders. I might log a feature request for that, actually. If you haven't watched my video on collections, you might find it helpful. I create saved collections for everything!
I've recently tried Darktable 3.6 under Windows but unfortunately it didn't work. The program doesn't seem to import any picture if the folder's name has any "strange" character. (I'm from Spain and it seems it doesn't like some of our letters :/ on Windows) So I'll have to wait until the developers fix it. It's a bit frustrating coming across these silly annoyances.
Great videos Bruce. Thanks to your tutorials I'm now comfortable enough with Darktable to soon cancel my Adobe subscription. But there's one thing that is niggling me with Darktable and hoping you, or anyone else reading this, may know the answer - under exposure! I always need to add anything between 1.25 to 2 stops to any image even though I know I nailed the exposure in camera. Is anyone else experiencing this? I generally use Darktable in Linux but see the same issue in Windows also. Many thanks, Mark.
Thing is, almost all cameras are giving you a false sense of security. What you see "in-camera" is the raw data WITH the manufacturer's jpeg processing applied using the image processor built in to the camera. So, the exposure that you think you nailed in-camera is intentionally under-exposed because the manufacturer knows what the image processor will do with the raw data.
Thanks Bruce. I guess I'm now reassured that this is normal behaviour for Darktable. I also now assume then that the likes of Lightroom, C1 etc. have been making these exposure adjustments automatically at time of import? Does this also mean that there is even more latitude to expose even further to the right if processing in Darktable or just continue with adding the extra exposure in post?
I'm not sure how other software does it. As for in-camera exposure, you can probably shoot an extra stop, but I wouldn't push it any further than that. Best bet would be to go and shoot some test shots, all with different lighting, and see how the RAW files stand up.
Bruce, what you are doing for the "Lightroom-deficient" photographic community is just astonishing and I cannot thank you enough. It goes without saying that your darkroom tutorial series is by far the best and most in-depth out there. Thank you once again. Are you planning anything special for the 100th episode of the series?
Thanks for the kind words! Been trying to think of something to do for the centenary episode. Nothing as yet.
Agreed! ❤️✌🏻☕
Thanks!
No problem!
Woah, please excuse my rather lame reply. On a mobile device, I did not realise that you had made a monetary contribution, Liza. Thanks you so much. Greatly appreciated!
Hi Bruce, I bought my first PC in 1996 and have always shot Jpegs but I have taken the plunge and moved to Mac OS which at first was a bit overwhelming but getting to grips. Browsing the internet I came across Darktable and having the facility to shoot RAW images on both my camera and my phone decided to give it a go. Thank you for taking the time to give the clinically ignorant a thorough explanation for starting out in Darktable. I'm sure that my journey through RAW editing will be improved by your unselfish contributions. Thanks again.
Thanks for the kind words, and best wishes on your photographic journey!
Perfect timing for me this, Bruce. I've just been reading through the user manual while working out how best to jump ship from Apple's Aperture to darktable + a self-hosted sharing app like PhotoStructure or PhotoPrism. This series of videos will clearly come in very handy for me, thank you. I'm looking forward to getting back into photography (being without future-proof editing tools has put me off for a few years now)!
Thanks Graham, and welcome to the dark side! 😃
Thank you for your commitment to help us newbies. I have no background knowledge of photo editing software which at the present makes darktable a daunting challenge. Without your help I doubt would undertake using this powerful software. Your presentations make all the difference. Thank you.
Thanks so much for the kind words!
Great lesson to help all those people who want to try out darktable and don't know where to start. Congrats!
Thanks mate! 😃
Thank you, Bruce! We all love your work!
My pleasure!
Changing "folder" and "image' to "add to library" and "copy and import" was a really classy move. It makes the program less intuitive and user friendly for those new users. By all means, we need to confuse them as much as possible.
I kid I kid, lopl.
Bwahaha. You had me there for a moment! I was thinking "Really? I thought it was a GREAT move." :)
The library is just darktable's way of describing the images that it knows about. That's all.
So, yeah, go ahead and add a folder of images to your library. Then, in the collections module, instead of using film roll as the search criteria, drop that menu down and select folder. And voila! You can browse by folder!
@@audio2u Your answer was very useful for me too! 😁
Cheers Claudia!
Thanks. Good clear communication style. Helped a lot.
File structure is always an issue for me. You covered it well.
Thanks!
This is what I was looking for. Very clear. Thanks Bruce.
Cheers.
thanks Bruce, looked at your vids a while back just now getting into processing as a newbie been sub'd for ages keep going fella
Thanks!
Hi Bruce, great videos!
Just bought a new PC as my old laptop is about to fall over. What I found was lat my old Lightroom 6 is no longer available to download from Adobe, even though I bought it outright some time ago. Not willing to pay monthly, I've just found darktable, WOW so pleaseed with it. Early days but hey, I'll get there...eventually.
Keep up the good work it's much appreciated.
Phil, welcome to the dark side! :)
I was in pretty much the same boat 6 years ago. Wanted out of the windoze ecosystem, and was interested in linux. My first thing was to find something which could replace LR. dt was my third exploration (after raw therapee and digikam) and I immediately saw the potential even though I didn't know how to use it then. Dived in, and never looked back.
Thank you, Bruce. Was looking forward to this quick beginner from you since 3.6 landed just after began to try two weeks ago. Thanks again. 💐
No problem! :)
Great series, Bruce. I am moving away from Lightroom and know now where I am moving to. Thanks for the precise and understandable instruction. Keep it up.
Thanks! I plan to!
@@audio2u I have an issue with finding the original RAW file once I have converted to B&W and exported. If I want to edit in another way I cannot find that RAW file I only see the B&W jpeg??
You can use the Collections module to search based on all different kinds of criteria, including folder location.
Try starting there and see how you go.
Bruce i learned that after working with dt for years i am still a new user i can to that conclusion because u just learned something thanks
Cheers!
Hi Bruce. I'm new to DarkTable (v3.6.2), and I use a Sony RX100VI and don't have a second camera. I'm finding once I import an image and switch over to darkroom, the image is applied a number of module presets which ends up washing out the colors dramatically, details are lost, and the contrast is dialed way down. The thumbnail on lighttable looks good until it's brought into darkroom. From your videos, that doesn't seems to be the case for most. I was curious if you would address, or have already addressed, this issue in one of your videos? Thanks much!
Yes, I've addressed this multiple times in the past! 😃
When you import a RAW file into darktable, the preview in lifestyle is the in-camera jpeg.
The moment you open that image in the darkroom, darktable sets the raw file back to its defaults so that you can start developing (from the neg, as it were).
And the 8-9 modules you see activated by default are all the steps necessary to turn a RAW file into a viewable image. All other image editing software does this, but only darktable lets you see those steps.
Hope this helps.
I'm not new in darktable AT ALL, but is always cool watch your videos.
Thanks João!
Thanks Bruce very helpful and easy to understand. Just wanted to find out how to change the color of grid lines I saw it on one of your episodes but not sure which one. eg. Grid lines when you crop and rotate
Thanks. Bottom right hand corner of the central part of the UI. Look for the green and red crosshairs. Right click for options.
@@audio2u Thank you Bruce
I'm so new to this that I don't yet know what to ask. But, this is exactly what I needed and many Thanks!
You're welcome! darktable (ALWAYS lowercase) is a very powerful piece of software, but unlike Lightroom, it won't hold you hand. It expects you to delve into understanding a little bit of colour science. I've likened it in previous videos to the difference between getting under the hood and tweaking the engine of your car vs just hopping in and driving your car. :)
Hi Bruce perfect what are you doing Darktable great thanks a lot. I want to ask if it is possible to compose multiple exposures in Darktable. Thank you very much Jaroslav.
No, darktable is not like photoshop or gimp... it's more like lightroom. You work on a single image at a time.
Hello, thank you very much for a nice introduction with a well-chosen sample of the program's many functions - great for a beginner like me. Best regards, Niels, Denmark
Cheers!
Thanks Bruce. You have got me convinced. I am downloading 3.8
Excellent. Enjoy!
I just discovered Darktable so this was extremely useful. I used to use Lightroom but hate that I can't own it outright any more.
Welcome to the dark side! :)
Honestly, once you've wrapped your head around what darktable is capable of, you'll wonder why it took you so long to find it!
Hello,
When I try to import my usb does not show up. I have like 20 or so photos on a folder on the usb and I don’t see it pop up when i try to import. I only see existing files on my computer.
In the top left part of the import dialogue box (v3.6), you'll have the option to choose your source. Your USB drive should appear there.
I am watching no.97 - How do I get to see the modules. How do I get to see an individual image now that they are all loaded.
To see the modules, you need to click on the hamburger (just below the histogram). This will invoke the module manager.
To see a single image, click F for fullscreen toggle.
Thanks, a useful refresher as I’m interested in using the RAW file editor in DT to confirm that it’s more comprehensive than the one in Affinity Photo!
Cheers!
On windows (sorry), it kept uploading to my onedrive folder which is not writable by an app. The docs are useless for this - there is no info about editing an environment variable. I found the answer in an older youtube of yours. Thank you. BTW, I wish the manual would include some pictures to help you find the tab it's referring to. I have watched your youtube #100 several times. I have to keep stopping it to figure out where the tab you are referring to is and make notes. I am computer literate but darktable is gnarly.
Yeah, the documentation for dt is unfortunately not it's strong suit!
Hey Bruce, thanks for taking the time to put these videos together! Certainly helps newbs like me. One thing I'm struggling with is that when I bring up my photos for editing, the color is way off. It only does this for my raw photos (I have some photos that I shot Raw + JPG, so I can compare the outcome now, and the JPGs look fine). I'm shooting a Canon EOS Rebel T5. Anyone have any ideas for updating the raw converter/profile information to get better/accurate colors?
I really have to remember to mention this when I do a newbies video.
So, when you import a RAW file into darktable, the preview you see is the camera-generated jpeg. But the moment you load that RAW file into the darkroom view, the camera-generated jpeg is discarded and you are seeing the ACTUAL RAW data, without any processing. Think about it... you wouldn't want to load up the RAW and still be looking at the jpeg version of it, right?
So you're now in a position to start editing the RAW from scratch.
@@audio2u Whoa! That makes sense! Thanks for the explanation!
Does DT import the images ‘from’ your hard drive? What I mean is, they will No longer be available on your Hard drive after import.
The import dialogue box has two options.
1. Add to library. This will leave the images where they are currently located on your file system, and will simply reference the files where they are currently located.
2. Copy and import. This is what you should use if you are importing from a memory card (or any other device which will NOT remain permanently attached to your computer). This will actually make COPIES of the images and store them on your file system where you tell it to.
In neither situation will images be removed from their original location.
@@audio2u When you copy from a memory card, does it also save the images to your hard drive as well as into Darkroom?
I assume you mean "...into darktable". And the answer is no.
Images are not "copied into darktable" ever. It's a database. And what THAT means is that it simply knows where images live on your filesystem, and allows you to view them and edit them from with the dt interface.
What should I do when pictures are not brought to the library?
You can import images into your library through the import module (in lighttable view).
Hi Bruce,
first of all, thank you so much for your videos. They were such a big help to get startet and find out a lot about this massive software. I tried it a couple of times in the past but it always felt so overhelming and thanks to your videos I now had a lot of fun editing my wedding pictures!
I´ve got a Question for you: Is there something in Darktable where you can sorf of blend one part of a picture onto a different picture. For example, if you have a series of pictures with peoples eyes open and closed on different frames. Could you create one picture where everybodys eyes are open?
Thanks for the kind words.
No, darktable isn't designed f for compositing work. For that kind of work, you would need gimp or affinity photo or something else like that.
@@audio2u Thanks for the hint! Have a great day!
Thank you Bruce for this valuable input.
No problem
Question: If raw image files are moved to another folder after editing in darktable, will the modifications "follow" the images to the new folder, or are steps needed to re-link the images to the sidecars?
If you move the RAW files without darktable knowing you did it (you SHOULD be using the 'move' function in the Selected Images module), then darktable will be showing skulls.
If you move the xmp file at the same time as the RAW file, then you will be able to reimport the RAW file into darktable at its new location, and all your previous edits will be intact.
Thanks for that. Is there any way to connect Darktable to the Apple Photos app on my Mac and to the same bunch of Apple Photos on my Windows machine (which does download the photos, albeit, unsorted, via the Windows iCloud app). Because of certain personal reasons I need to work on both the machines. And as a beginner, for now, I use my iPhone.
Unfortunately, I have zero knowledge of Apple products/services. Sorry!
@@audio2u Ah ok thanks for the reply.
Hi Bruce, thanks for this video. I wonder what the release of version 3.6 and using the scene referred workflow means to video Ep #71, the 10 beginners modules to start with. Are these still the best modules to start with as a beginner?
To be honest, I would have to go back and watch that video in order to answer that! Most likely not. The best bet, which I did cover in this video, is to choose from the module group presets either "beginner" or "scene-referred".
@@audio2u Thanks. I know the problem about what I did in which video :-). I will take a look at the presets you mentioned.
Hello, I'm using Darktable for years but it always have way more tools that I even looked into. What is the current recommendation for input profiles? I use 'standard color matrix' and "linear Rec709 RGB" as a working profile, use sRGB as an output and photos always look muted and less bright when I import them to Gimp to bring them to web size and do final sharpening. Is it just because Darktable is dark and I use a light grey theme in Gimp?
The profiles you are using sound right to me. When you open your image in gimp, what profile is gimp using? It may be using a profile with a wider color space than the sRGB you exhorted at from darktable, which would explain the muted colors.
Also, why don't you set your web resolution in darktable at the time of export? It would save an unnecessary step going into gimp.
@@audio2u Gimp uses the embedded profile it says. It does use the color profile for my monitor and I never found where to put it in Darktable. Looks a bit differently if I disable it in Gimp.
That's a good question, I've set up this routine years ago so don't really remember. But if Darktable does all its corrections on a full scale photo and then makes it 1200px on the long side, wouldn't it need sharpening afterwards?
Not an area of expertise for me. I don't sharpen after export, and have never had issues with my images online. But each to their own, I guess.
@@audio2u That's good to know! Thank you :)
Hello Marta. May I start with this. Darktable is an excellent tool when used properly. But that caveat is important when used properly. Darktable is like giving a child a knife, they can also do a lot of damage with it, as well as cut the food on their plate. I would suggest you choose your source of darktable education carefully, as even some of the supposedly knowledgeable individuals, could lead you down a path, where you make inadvertent mistakes, and the fault is yours alone, not darktable's.
I suggest you read the darktable manual, which will correct any errors you may be taught, especially here on youtube where there is no peer review or vetting of anything that anyone says. Anyone can publish anything on UA-cam, and have lots of views, even if the information is innaccurate.
To your specific problem. Typically you should not need to change the default settings for the input profile, which sets the working profile to "linear Rec2020". Changing the working profile to "linear Rec709 RGB" will cause your images to be degraded. So in simple terms, for some reason, you have chosen the wrong settings, and that is the specific reason you are not getting the results you expect - user error and in this case - you own user error. There is a default icon on every module, which will allow you to take the settings back to the default in your images.
Please do be careful - darktable is a really good tool, but like a car or a knife, only when used as intended.
With all due respect I am certain and somewhat surprised that William was incorrect, when he states, in response to your enquiry, that your modified profile is correct. Could have been an oversight on his part, not fully reading or understanding what your problem is - But this is UA-cam, anyone can make mistakes. As long as its not medical advice or financial advice, hopefully not too much damage done.
My biggest issue with Darktable is the lousy way it handles 'collections'. I should be able to add to the library without having to again drill down in 'collections' to the subfolders I've just added. If I add a folder, it should just appear in the list. But it doesn't. It resets to 'files' every time. It's frustrating to the point of maddening.
Am I missing something?
No, you're not missing anything. It would be nice if there was a preference to force collective to always show folders. I might log a feature request for that, actually.
If you haven't watched my video on collections, you might find it helpful. I create saved collections for everything!
@@audio2u I'll look it up. Thank you. :)
I've recently tried Darktable 3.6 under Windows but unfortunately it didn't work. The program doesn't seem to import any picture if the folder's name has any "strange" character. (I'm from Spain and it seems it doesn't like some of our letters :/ on Windows) So I'll have to wait until the developers fix it. It's a bit frustrating coming across these silly annoyances.
Wow. I had no idea that that would cause an issue. You should definitely log into nothing and create a bug report.
@@audio2u Apparently it's a known issue. So I'm waiting for the bug to be fixed and give the software a try.
Thank you very much! I like your videos!
Glad you like them!
How do you delete a photo if you no longer want it
In lightroom view, go to "selected image/s" module in top right corner and select "trash".
Thank you.
You're welcome!
i am about to change from APERTURE to darktable, but it is so complicated........ almost uselessly complicated. thanxx fpor sharing
It requires spending some time to learn what it can do, but that's the same for any software.
I must add my voice to the Thank you choir!
Haha, that one I've not heard before! The "thank you chair". Cheers!
Well done Bruce :O)
Cheers.
Great videos Bruce. Thanks to your tutorials I'm now comfortable enough with Darktable to soon cancel my Adobe subscription. But there's one thing that is niggling me with Darktable and hoping you, or anyone else reading this, may know the answer - under exposure! I always need to add anything between 1.25 to 2 stops to any image even though I know I nailed the exposure in camera. Is anyone else experiencing this? I generally use Darktable in Linux but see the same issue in Windows also. Many thanks, Mark.
Thing is, almost all cameras are giving you a false sense of security. What you see "in-camera" is the raw data WITH the manufacturer's jpeg processing applied using the image processor built in to the camera. So, the exposure that you think you nailed in-camera is intentionally under-exposed because the manufacturer knows what the image processor will do with the raw data.
Thanks Bruce. I guess I'm now reassured that this is normal behaviour for Darktable. I also now assume then that the likes of Lightroom, C1 etc. have been making these exposure adjustments automatically at time of import? Does this also mean that there is even more latitude to expose even further to the right if processing in Darktable or just continue with adding the extra exposure in post?
I'm not sure how other software does it.
As for in-camera exposure, you can probably shoot an extra stop, but I wouldn't push it any further than that. Best bet would be to go and shoot some test shots, all with different lighting, and see how the RAW files stand up.
👍
Cheers.
👍👍👍
Cheers.
bon
Too fast. Too many details. Too many finer points. No newbie basics. This video is NOT for newbies.
Sorry you felt that way, Greg.
@@audio2u I uninstalled this monstrosity