How to replace ford mustang front brakes-mustang brake pad replacement
Вставка
- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
- How to change your Ford Mustang brake pads. This video is for the front brake pads.
This is a very simple and easy video shot in real time to help you do a quick and easy brake job on a 2000 Ford Mustang. Not everyone can afford crazy shop prices. I know I can't.
The front brake pads on this 2000 Ford Mustang cost us about $24 bucks and took us about 7 minutes to change per side.
A shop would charge you $200 to $400 a crazy price to change your front brakes. A shop would start telling you that the rotors are bad and you need $80 brake pads etc.. etc...
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
don't use regular grease on those slider pins, the heat from the brakes will bake the grease into a solid black glue, and seize the caliper. you must use special high heat brake grease. don't use wheel bearing grease.
and it would be a LOT easier to compress the pistons while the caliper is still on the car bolted down, and on the rotor. just compress it from the outside, it'll use the inside pad to push evenly back on the pistons. otherwise you're working in an oddball position on top of the spindle there with the caliper loose flopping around, it's actually harder that way. easier to compress on the car.
How do i compress it from the outside? Would i still need a clamp or could i just pull it
You could have pushed both pistons in at once if u use the old brake pad flipped backwards with the c-clamp
Thanks for giving the caliper bolt size.
Thank you good sir for a nice well explained video that’s not 30 mins long!!!
Thanks, what a great video. Menards is the best.
I was looking to verify which was the inboard and outboard pad so watched this. (wasn't sure if I had the correct pads delivered for an SN95 to foxbody caliper swap, couldn't just look at the other side) Notice two pads have little locating pins on the backing plates more to the ends and two have them about where the pistons. Clearly looks like you guys put the inboard pad on the outside on the passenger side at least. I was having trouble seating the pins just inside the opening of the piston but turns out when you bolt the assembly together it pops into place.......SO remember people install inboard and outboard where they belong to Ensure even brake wear and lessen the chance for Noise !!!
Thanks because I’m bout to change mine today
Super helpful and straight to the point, thank you for the help
Clearly he hasn’t seen Chris fix
He's missing to much stuff. He should use silicone grease on the guide pins.
Recommend using brake grease also on the brake bracket slides which the pads fit into. First clean with a steel wire brush to remove the rust so the pads move more easily.
Never grease the stainless hardware, the pad moving back and forth will create a ridge of grease (called grease/rust jacking) and prevent the pad from moving freely. The stainless hardware allows the pads to move freely as is, if it doesn't move freely, it's because whoever made the pads added too much powder coating on the ears of the pad, and it needs to be ground off, not lubricated with grease.
If you want to grease under the shims where it mates to the caliper so the stainless hardware doesn't hold moisture against the caliper, that's fine, and will stop rusting, the backing plate is also fine, it makes the pads sticky and stick to the caliper, preventing squeal and keeps the pads off the rotor easier, and the grease gets under the piston boot and makes it easier to compress on the next job.
@@AzalofForossa Thanks for the clarification.
you saved me $100. thx
cool
this did help me. your video did its job! great job guys.
ok. According to Colesfixitright, this was correct, but there IS inboard outboard and should be addressed
This video really helped out!! Thank you!
cool
possibly you don't have the pads all the way into the rattle clips I would remove the pads and remove the clips then reinstall the clips to make sure they are correctly all the way on the cast iron frame then put pads gently back into clips. There should be no banging slamming on reinstall
The semi metallic pads might be cheap and they might not last quite as long, but they have better bite than most other street pads you can buy, including the newest stuff. Their only issue is they are a tad bit louder. By a tad bit I mean I only hear them when first getting in the car and go down the driveway with the stereo off and my perception of noise is really high. Other than that I never hear them.
Once they warm up semi metallic pads get quieter, have more bite than ceramic, but yeah, other than those two pros they are worse in all other ways, they eat the rotor faster than any other pad, and the cold squeal, they also make more heat on the rotor, which can cause stress cracks and warping super easy if you do enough hard braking. Ceramic pads actually have the reverse problem, and put the excess heat into the caliper and brake fluid instead of the brake pad friction material, so brake fluid needs to be changed more often to account for the fluid cooking if you do track runs or super hard braking in general.
Good video, thanks guys
Thank you for the video sir. That's easy enough. Now, I don't need to pay anyone to do this simple job.
exactly
Which shade of blue is that Mustang? Is that Bright Atlantic Blue, Atlantic Blue, or Sonic Blue?
What's it called?
My Mustang is sonic blue and this is not the same color so one of the other 2
thanks brother!
“I don’t wanna be in the video”
You have to be LOL
Dude wore a ATARI shirt. I can trust these guys
thanks
That really helpfull
cool tried to simplify
Informative and somewhat funny video (I don't want to be in the video)
I have my brake pistons compressed in all the way but my caliper won't fit back in it's original position. I don't know what I'm doing wrong.
just a guess can't remember if its the mustang ones the bolts go thru tubes guides whatever they sometimes move out of place easy mistake to miss they just push back by hand they hit the frame when trying to put calipar back on
There are 4 indentations on the outside of the brake pads with a tiny bit of metal sticking out. The caliper seems to be hitting that small piece. I'm sitting here slamming down the caliper to make it go back but it won't, it's really frustrating.
and those slides the bolts go in have to be flush
HgRoller your an idiot
usually the rotor just is not pressed back against the lug nuts flush, or the pads are not pushed into their position like not in the rattle clips right sometimes they need a small tapping once in slot. Or the rods that the bolts go in are out need to be pushed in or you may not have pushed the caliper cylinders all the way flush.
Whatever you did its probably simple just back track over it.
Bull crap... why the Hell does my 1998 mustang have Allen Bolts as bolts..Not 12mm...WTF ...never seen no shit like this ...and have yet to hear any say anything about a rubber bushing.. aahaaa
Ummmmm. No, don't follow this, it's incorrect.
I have a 2003 GT and the banjo
Bolt is now leaking brake fluid which is causing no pressure to build, I’ve backed it in and out...tightened it multiple times.... this has never happen to me. Is this common?