This is great. Thanks so much for the info. Can you possibly do a video for someone who has to deal with a shoulder that’s prone to dislocation? I seemed to make it resistant for 2 1/2 years since the last, but recently happened again. Thanks!
I love the videos! Keep them coming Hooper! I would love to see some follow up videos where you teach a stranger or noob how to do these exercises so you can correct their mistakes.
Well, my flexors are constantly tight specifically along the Ulna. I always try to work out my extensors to balance it out. But I would be curious to see your recommendations for ways to strengthen and balance the wrist as well as avoid elbow tendonitis, kind of like a preemptive plan.
Came across your videos after a shoulder impingement and you’ve helped me to recover and strengthen my shoulders, so thank you! Wanted to ask if the rear delts pay much of a role in stabilising the shoulders for climbing?
The delts as a group certainly add stability, especially to "suck" the humerus into the glenoid and keep it from moving inferiorly which can be helpful for many situations including while hanging from an overhead position.
I was directed here from your shoulder impingement video. I've just managed to get this in both shoulders from swimming and did these exercises this afternoon before then icing. They now are more painful and I am wondering if these are exercises to do while suffering from SIS, or for strengthening to prevent it happening again? Are there more gentle versions/other exercises to be doing in the acute phase? Really don't want to be out of action from climbing and swimming for long!! Thanks in advance 🙂
Hmm, i had it in one shoulder and did a total climbing break for 1,5 weeks. that did actually help and now i am using these exercises here as warmup before climbing and on non-climbing days as shoulder-workout to strengthen the muscles. would be curious to hear how other people handled their pain and these exercises. i was just very scared to permanently harm my shoulders...
Great stuff, doc. Question: I've been suffering from a pesky pain in the front of my shoulder. Which of these exercises is most effective for that, and how many sessions/reps should I do? Thanks!
Pain in the front of the shoulder can have a few different causes so it is hard to say without a full evaluation. Generally external rotator exercises can help but may not be the only solution.
They can be used as a warm-up, yes, but I like to keep it simple with a few exercises I have in my other video about shoulder warm ups. Reps depends on your training goals. Are you bouldering and working on strength? Or working multi pitch and need endurance? Your goals should determine your sets and reps
@@HoopersBeta Reps also depends on your pain, right? At first you should keep it low. Maybe 1 x 20/25, or even lower, but then you shouldn't climb, should you? Normally you should progress into step 3 x 25 twice a day in a couple of months or so, shouldn't you?
What's the difference between using light weights and therabands for these exercises? Is it okay to use weights if you don't have the bands, and if not, what's the reasoning? Thanks!
Strange! I thought I responded to this but maybe it didn't go through. Sorry for the delay. The direction of force is really important and what makes the biggest difference between using a resistance band vs a weight. Take the 1st exercise for example. The theraband creates force that will engage the external rotators of the shoulder. If you were using a dumbbell, you are still going through external rotation, but the force would only be straight down (gravity) so it would be more of a bicep/elbow flexor exercise. Same goes for the 2nd exercise. The weight, at the end range of the exercise, would just be sitting on your shoulders, whereas if using a theraband it would create force to work on your scapular retractors and external rotators. Hope that helps!
Easy way to get external rotations in: press against a door frame or anything solid. Well it’s not actually a rotation. It’s isometric but really good nonetheless! And you can actually get a little rotation in by leaning your body into it. I do this randomly throughout the day. Feels good!
My shoulder pops when I do some of the rotation exercises. It doesn't hurt, but it's not a pleasant sound. Is there a video you recommend for popping and cracking joints? I have a few.... 😅
Hey Hooper, I tried the Goal Post Press or the touchdown celebration. When I do this both of my shoulders make a popping/ gurgling sound. Should I be worried about this? I am using a yellow theraband (lightest one I can find), so I don't injure myself. Also I love your videos!
Does the clicking/popping increase with repetitions or decrease? The shoulder, being as mobile as it is, is prone to little errors where a tendon may slip over a bony prominence or the joint may be rotating just ever so slightly off which causes the click. While this is an error, if it is painless it's not terrible, BUT what I always look for is can I warm up, stretch out, or loosen this tissue so it stops clicking? If you can, that is always your solution. If not, and the clicking causes you pain or discomfort, discontinue the exercise
@@HoopersBeta Thanks man. Yes, overall I would say it discontinues with more movement. It is always on the first pull that it likes to click the loudest. I just know shoulders are sensitive and I have seen plenty of other videos about not performing similar face-pull exercises because they can induce injury. ua-cam.com/video/eIq5CB9JfKE/v-deo.html
In that case, I would definitely warm up before you try this exercise and see if the clicking is less on the first few reps. Shoulders are definitely prone to mistakes, and trying to jump to advanced exercises can definitely be challenging. The first few exercises he shows in that video I would agree are not good, the later one he shows are just like the goal post press, it is all about proper execution. I see that they mention in the video a specific grip, BUT you have to also consider training for what you are doing. We need are hands and arms to be in the position that we will be using while on the wall, which is much more likely to be the palm forward position. By training in a safe and controlled manner, and making it as functional as possible, you will safeguard yourself from potential injuries while climbing. Hope that makes sense! Feel free to follow up if you have any other thoughts / comments / questions.
Hey Hooper! I am an avid rock climber and due to covid-19 have started running again. I have gotten some weird shoulder pain after I run about 3 miles. If I stop running, the pain stops. (I am guessing from overworking my shoulders in combo with climbing and pull ups?) Do you think these exercises will help build up strength to no longer get the shoulder pain? Or would these exercises worsen the pain by continuing to over-exert?
There are a few easy possibilities with this, but just purely mechanical would be a lower factor. If you have just started running again, it is more likely systemic, such as referred pain from your diaphragm. If it is the top of the shoulders towards the neck, it could be your upper traps compensating as you run longer. The upper traps will help with accessory breathing as you get out of breath. But again, I would think something else, so just be careful and if the pain is sharp or you are short of breath, or experiencing more symptoms, stop running and talk to your physician.
Whenever I do these exercises my shoulders click, I have climbed since I was 10 back then no warms ups or anything just straight into v0 v1 warms up lol, 16 17 I used to warm up on v3 v4 like an idiot, now I'm 28 trying to get back into climbing, I've injured my rotator in the past using static weights and now I have pain climbing will these exercises eventually stop the clicking?
Thanks for your detailed videos! I already have shoulder problems (diagnosed as impingement). If I go climbing with enough rest days and sufficiently low volume it is kind of okay apart from shorter episodes where it gets worse for 2-3 days. The bad thing is that whenever I want to improve my shoulder situation and try any exercises which are supposed to be beneficial (no matter from which youtube channel or book they are taken, not blaming you) it gets worse than from most climbing days. So far I have found no exercise combination which changes something for the better instead of worse. (But admittedly it is inefficient to experiment with this because for each bad exercise you do you have to wait several days until the pain is subsided) I wonder if this is common and whether there is any strategy for this apart from not doing any rehab exercises at all and staying in exactly the same and also not optimal situation. I would definitely watch a "top exercises for the extremely sensitive / already injured shoulder" video.
Sorry to hear about your injury! This may be a situation of "finding the right level of force for your injury". What I mean is, whether your pain is due to an injury or weakness, if you are loading the tissue at a level that is too high / great, it can produce the pain that you are describing. If you are able to find an exercise that produces low enough force as to not too greatly strain the tissue, it may not produce the pain but rather may help promote the healing process and eventually you can build off of that success with harder exercises. You may also need to modify the sets and reps you do to match the current status of your shoulder. It sounds like you would benefit from seeing a skilled provider such as a physical therapist who can guide you through this tough situation!
I agree, it would be more efficient to let somebody with professional experience make those decisions instead of doing trial and error by myself. Sadly in Germany you usually get prescribed rather few physio treatment units in a rather short time window. This might be ok for people who just need short-time recovery from surgery or an injury but has not helped me a lot so far. But maybe I will give this another chance in the new year. (Merry Christmas by the way)
He says it at the end of the video. It forces you to activate your core before each rep, which is important for climbing since you always use your core when climbing.
Are those useful for short-term relieve? Last night I had problems sleeping: tested for overuse impingement with your other video, feels like inflammation along the upper arm bone, have some instability for some weeks (kind of 2mm pop out while pulling in climbing). Now I ponder if I should do the exercises before sleeping (in 3 hours), or if it worsens the condition (because inflammation) :-)
There are 3 ways in that the exercises may provide short term relief. 1) Altering the fluid dynamics (changing blood flow for example), 2) changing / reducing muscle rigidity, and 3) providing joint lubrication. As for doing it before sleep 3 hours would be fine, but don't do it too close to sleep for the following reasons 1) increasing core temp can make it harder to fall asleep and take longer to get into your NREM sleep cycles which reduces quality of sleep and 2) if you increase blood flow to the area but then go to sleep there will be no muscle pumping so the interstitial pressure will likely increase and cause more pain rather than reduce.
@@HoopersBeta Thank you man, you my new online doc! I like your simple yet profound explanations. I always never get those from a doc/physio (Germany).. I just did 5mins of playing with the exercises last night. The 45 degree felt like it flushed out some bad stuff. And I slept well :-) Will do those exercises regularly. Ideas for the channel: 1/ Show progressions of resistance/exercises for: rehab - prehab strengthening - pro level (climbing) strengthening. E.g. for shoulder exercises. A little hard to explain as a non-native speaker. I think postural weaknesses prevent a lot of strength/climbing development - once you get stronger, something gets injured (even if you take care) 2/ Explain what problems certain postural mistakes cause, and how to fix them. E.g. shoulders round to the front causex XYZ overuse problem. Do (facepulls?) to fix, dont make error 123 while doing (facepulls) 3/ Correct Form of typical climbing strengthening exercises (and climbing moves). There is a lot around, but it's hard to figure, whom you can actually trust.
@@HoopersBeta I don't think you intended this, but that name does seem to make light of something that's brought people a lot of pain. I really appreciate your videos, but that moment did make them a little less likable, a little less persuasive to me, a little less something that I might seek out again
My rotator cuffs got stronger just watching this
This is great. Thanks so much for the info. Can you possibly do a video for someone who has to deal with a shoulder that’s prone to dislocation? I seemed to make it resistant for 2 1/2 years since the last, but recently happened again. Thanks!
I love the videos! Keep them coming Hooper! I would love to see some follow up videos where you teach a stranger or noob how to do these exercises so you can correct their mistakes.
That would probably produce the best bloopers too! Good idea. Thank you for your feedback.
Nice stuff and Very Well explained. 👍👍
love the addition of workout names at the bottom! very helpful. Still think hoops should be shirtless, we all know it's 95 degrees in that gym... ;)
Haha, maybe for a celebratory 50th video or something of that nature.
Also, I have to give full credit to Emile for the awesome names
This changed my traiing and warmup routine! Thanks!
Your videos are out of this world, thank you!
Thanks for this Video, like the exercises a lot! Can you do them as a circuit or do you need to rest after each exercise?
Hey I think a really helpful video would be a wrist and elbow tendonitis buster combo!
For sure. Have you been dealing with any specific ailments recently?
Well, my flexors are constantly tight specifically along the Ulna. I always try to work out my extensors to balance it out. But I would be curious to see your recommendations for ways to strengthen and balance the wrist as well as avoid elbow tendonitis, kind of like a preemptive plan.
I searched this kind of video for an enternity!
Thank you♡
Saved this one.
Came across your videos after a shoulder impingement and you’ve helped me to recover and strengthen my shoulders, so thank you! Wanted to ask if the rear delts pay much of a role in stabilising the shoulders for climbing?
Play*
The delts as a group certainly add stability, especially to "suck" the humerus into the glenoid and keep it from moving inferiorly which can be helpful for many situations including while hanging from an overhead position.
Your top 6 is my top1 video ;)
When do you recommend to do it for beginner/intermediate climber? Resting days? Same day of climbing but latter?
We are in the process of making a video for when to incorporate your training but it's a convoluted topic because everyone's schedules vary so greatly
Nice video. I will try incorporating these into my workouts :-)
I was directed here from your shoulder impingement video. I've just managed to get this in both shoulders from swimming and did these exercises this afternoon before then icing. They now are more painful and I am wondering if these are exercises to do while suffering from SIS, or for strengthening to prevent it happening again? Are there more gentle versions/other exercises to be doing in the acute phase? Really don't want to be out of action from climbing and swimming for long!! Thanks in advance 🙂
Hmm, i had it in one shoulder and did a total climbing break for 1,5 weeks. that did actually help and now i am using these exercises here as warmup before climbing and on non-climbing days as shoulder-workout to strengthen the muscles. would be curious to hear how other people handled their pain and these exercises. i was just very scared to permanently harm my shoulders...
Great stuff, doc. Question: I've been suffering from a pesky pain in the front of my shoulder. Which of these exercises is most effective for that, and how many sessions/reps should I do? Thanks!
Pain in the front of the shoulder can have a few different causes so it is hard to say without a full evaluation. Generally external rotator exercises can help but may not be the only solution.
Hi, would uou recommend doing all of these exercises? Or which ones would you recommend if I want to incorporate this into e.g. my warmup? Thanks!
How many reps would you say for these? how many sets? also, could these be used as a warm-up routine before climbing?
They can be used as a warm-up, yes, but I like to keep it simple with a few exercises I have in my other video about shoulder warm ups. Reps depends on your training goals. Are you bouldering and working on strength? Or working multi pitch and need endurance? Your goals should determine your sets and reps
@@HoopersBeta got it. Thanks!!
@@HoopersBeta Reps also depends on your pain, right? At first you should keep it low. Maybe 1 x 20/25, or even lower, but then you shouldn't climb, should you? Normally you should progress into step 3 x 25 twice a day in a couple of months or so, shouldn't you?
Good video!
superb content
Do you have diagrams/printouts of these exercises?
What's the difference between using light weights and therabands for these exercises? Is it okay to use weights if you don't have the bands, and if not, what's the reasoning? Thanks!
Strange! I thought I responded to this but maybe it didn't go through. Sorry for the delay.
The direction of force is really important and what makes the biggest difference between using a resistance band vs a weight. Take the 1st exercise for example. The theraband creates force that will engage the external rotators of the shoulder. If you were using a dumbbell, you are still going through external rotation, but the force would only be straight down (gravity) so it would be more of a bicep/elbow flexor exercise. Same goes for the 2nd exercise. The weight, at the end range of the exercise, would just be sitting on your shoulders, whereas if using a theraband it would create force to work on your scapular retractors and external rotators. Hope that helps!
No worries! That makes a lot of sense- thank you! I just invested in some therabands :)
@@HoopersBeta Where/what resistance bands (therabands) should I be looking for regarding amount of resistance and an actual product?
This explains a lot.
Easy way to get external rotations in: press against a door frame or anything solid. Well it’s not actually a rotation. It’s isometric but really good nonetheless! And you can actually get a little rotation in by leaning your body into it. I do this randomly throughout the day. Feels good!
Could I do this on a rest day? Or does it need to be on climbing days
Factor in your schedule and what makes the most sense for you :)
Is there any amount to doing these that would be an excessive amount or could I do these exercises every day to help with SIS?
Hi Jason, I need help with my scapula position (both have wings esp on the right). Is remote phys.th an option? I'm from NL.
Hello! You can book an appointment on our website if you'd like :). www.hoopersbeta.com
-Emile
Nice I like a lot ❤
My shoulder pops when I do some of the rotation exercises. It doesn't hurt, but it's not a pleasant sound. Is there a video you recommend for popping and cracking joints? I have a few.... 😅
Hey Hooper, I tried the Goal Post Press or the touchdown celebration. When I do this both of my shoulders make a popping/ gurgling sound. Should I be worried about this? I am using a yellow theraband (lightest one I can find), so I don't injure myself. Also I love your videos!
Does the clicking/popping increase with repetitions or decrease? The shoulder, being as mobile as it is, is prone to little errors where a tendon may slip over a bony prominence or the joint may be rotating just ever so slightly off which causes the click. While this is an error, if it is painless it's not terrible, BUT what I always look for is can I warm up, stretch out, or loosen this tissue so it stops clicking? If you can, that is always your solution. If not, and the clicking causes you pain or discomfort, discontinue the exercise
@@HoopersBeta Thanks man. Yes, overall I would say it discontinues with more movement. It is always on the first pull that it likes to click the loudest. I just know shoulders are sensitive and I have seen plenty of other videos about not performing similar face-pull exercises because they can induce injury. ua-cam.com/video/eIq5CB9JfKE/v-deo.html
In that case, I would definitely warm up before you try this exercise and see if the clicking is less on the first few reps.
Shoulders are definitely prone to mistakes, and trying to jump to advanced exercises can definitely be challenging. The first few exercises he shows in that video I would agree are not good, the later one he shows are just like the goal post press, it is all about proper execution. I see that they mention in the video a specific grip, BUT you have to also consider training for what you are doing. We need are hands and arms to be in the position that we will be using while on the wall, which is much more likely to be the palm forward position. By training in a safe and controlled manner, and making it as functional as possible, you will safeguard yourself from potential injuries while climbing. Hope that makes sense! Feel free to follow up if you have any other thoughts / comments / questions.
Hey Hooper! I am an avid rock climber and due to covid-19 have started running again. I have gotten some weird shoulder pain after I run about 3 miles. If I stop running, the pain stops. (I am guessing from overworking my shoulders in combo with climbing and pull ups?) Do you think these exercises will help build up strength to no longer get the shoulder pain? Or would these exercises worsen the pain by continuing to over-exert?
There are a few easy possibilities with this, but just purely mechanical would be a lower factor. If you have just started running again, it is more likely systemic, such as referred pain from your diaphragm. If it is the top of the shoulders towards the neck, it could be your upper traps compensating as you run longer. The upper traps will help with accessory breathing as you get out of breath. But again, I would think something else, so just be careful and if the pain is sharp or you are short of breath, or experiencing more symptoms, stop running and talk to your physician.
@@HoopersBeta thanks hooper! I always appreciate your help!
whats the reps and sets?
Whenever I do these exercises my shoulders click, I have climbed since I was 10 back then no warms ups or anything just straight into v0 v1 warms up lol, 16 17 I used to warm up on v3 v4 like an idiot, now I'm 28 trying to get back into climbing, I've injured my rotator in the past using static weights and now I have pain climbing will these exercises eventually stop the clicking?
Try moving slower with the exercises or decreasing the range of motion and see if that helps reduce the clicking.
Thanks for your detailed videos!
I already have shoulder problems (diagnosed as impingement).
If I go climbing with enough rest days and sufficiently low volume it is kind of okay apart from shorter episodes where it gets worse for 2-3 days.
The bad thing is that whenever I want to improve my shoulder situation and try any exercises which are supposed to be beneficial (no matter from which youtube channel or book they are taken, not blaming you) it gets worse than from most climbing days. So far I have found no exercise combination which changes something for the better instead of worse. (But admittedly it is inefficient to experiment with this because for each bad exercise you do you have to wait several days until the pain is subsided)
I wonder if this is common and whether there is any strategy for this apart from not doing any rehab exercises at all and staying in exactly the same and also not optimal situation.
I would definitely watch a "top exercises for the extremely sensitive / already injured shoulder" video.
Sorry to hear about your injury! This may be a situation of "finding the right level of force for your injury". What I mean is, whether your pain is due to an injury or weakness, if you are loading the tissue at a level that is too high / great, it can produce the pain that you are describing. If you are able to find an exercise that produces low enough force as to not too greatly strain the tissue, it may not produce the pain but rather may help promote the healing process and eventually you can build off of that success with harder exercises. You may also need to modify the sets and reps you do to match the current status of your shoulder. It sounds like you would benefit from seeing a skilled provider such as a physical therapist who can guide you through this tough situation!
I agree, it would be more efficient to let somebody with professional experience make those decisions instead of doing trial and error by myself. Sadly in Germany you usually get prescribed rather few physio treatment units in a rather short time window. This might be ok for people who just need short-time recovery from surgery or an injury but has not helped me a lot so far. But maybe I will give this another chance in the new year. (Merry Christmas by the way)
I legit just hurt my shoulder in the climbing gym last night thanks for this
Dont use too stiff rubberbands to begin with. Warmup with two super easy sets of 10-20 reps to get warm.
? Can I do it without lifting my leg. I know this is weird but I have more balance on a small foohold than I do on my feet on the ground lol XD
Can someone explain to me why does he lift one leg?
He says it at the end of the video. It forces you to activate your core before each rep, which is important for climbing since you always use your core when climbing.
Catch me in the gym doing all these exercises. My lord and savior, Dr. Hooper, please heal me 😭
Be healed, friend!
Are those useful for short-term relieve? Last night I had problems sleeping: tested for overuse impingement with your other video, feels like inflammation along the upper arm bone, have some instability for some weeks (kind of 2mm pop out while pulling in climbing).
Now I ponder if I should do the exercises before sleeping (in 3 hours), or if it worsens the condition (because inflammation) :-)
There are 3 ways in that the exercises may provide short term relief. 1) Altering the fluid dynamics (changing blood flow for example), 2) changing / reducing muscle rigidity, and 3) providing joint lubrication.
As for doing it before sleep 3 hours would be fine, but don't do it too close to sleep for the following reasons
1) increasing core temp can make it harder to fall asleep and take longer to get into your NREM sleep cycles which reduces quality of sleep and 2) if you increase blood flow to the area but then go to sleep there will be no muscle pumping so the interstitial pressure will likely increase and cause more pain rather than reduce.
@@HoopersBeta Thank you man, you my new online doc! I like your simple yet profound explanations. I always never get those from a doc/physio (Germany)..
I just did 5mins of playing with the exercises last night. The 45 degree felt like it flushed out some bad stuff. And I slept well :-)
Will do those exercises regularly.
Ideas for the channel:
1/ Show progressions of resistance/exercises for: rehab - prehab strengthening - pro level (climbing) strengthening. E.g. for shoulder exercises.
A little hard to explain as a non-native speaker. I think postural weaknesses prevent a lot of strength/climbing development - once you get stronger, something gets injured (even if you take care)
2/ Explain what problems certain postural mistakes cause, and how to fix them. E.g. shoulders round to the front causex XYZ overuse problem. Do (facepulls?) to fix, dont make error 123 while doing (facepulls)
3/ Correct Form of typical climbing strengthening exercises (and climbing moves). There is a lot around, but it's hard to figure, whom you can actually trust.
I'm happy that you've found the channel to be helpful! I appreciate the ideas as well.
"the weinstein grab" WTF :D
Awesome video. I have to say the "weinstein grab" has been unfortunately named in light of ol' Harvey Weinstein.
Lol Harvey was in fact the inspiration for naming that exercise. Gotta make it memorable ;)
-Emile
@@HoopersBeta I don't think you intended this, but that name does seem to make light of something that's brought people a lot of pain. I really appreciate your videos, but that moment did make them a little less likable, a little less persuasive to me, a little less something that I might seek out again
@@valeriatsygankova9643 Be careful not to let the door hit you on the way out.
@@HoopersBeta that's really disappointing
"the weinstein grab" !? REALLY? So gross.
lmao all those over prescribed band exercises do nothing for shoulder pain, completely useless