I'd never throw away the originals of my work. I've been scanning negatives for 20 years, and scanners have come a long way since then. There is still room for improvement when converting film to digital files.
100% KEEP THE NEGS My sister wanted me to scan family photos from the 80s and 90s. Pictures were washed out (cheap 1h dev and print from back then). I did my best, but if only we had kept the negs, I could have DSLR scan them and oh my those pics would have looked soooo much better.
Hi Roger, trashing negs is not only for the young. My now late mother in law had a great family album of medium format contact prints from the 1950's onwards. Asked her if she had the negs and she said no, binned them. My parents in their late 80's are the same, got the prints and dumped the negs.
That is a shame Andrew! I can imagine a lot of photographers trashed their negs either through a bad moment of madness or no need for them anymore. I've told my daughter never to chuck mine if anything happens to me. ha ha.
Yeah, I work at a lab too. The College kids, frequently don't want their negs. But most of them are shooting disposable cameras and even know what negatives are in the first place. We do our best to educate them though.
That last bit, i was talking to my local lab a while ago, and she explained that they now specifically ask people if they want their negatives back at drop off, because so many people were getting the scans emailed to them, then just abandoning the film at the lab, where they used to keep it in case and it was piling up. But now they just chuck it after scanning if you don't want them. I couldn't quite believe it myself and said much the same as you, about keeping them around, maybe we'll have better scanners in the future, and you want to rescan, or you know, you lose the digital files, etc.
As a person that just got into film recently, I had one big goal in mind: Processing my own black and white film. I rarely throw away negatives, unless they're somehow scratched or messed up, even then, I at least get my loupe out and inspect it before I make my decision... Re-scanning them should be fun, especially with an upgraded scanner.
Comes from living in a digital world. Some labs even charge extra for mailing film back instead of making it part of the processing service. I don't want a lab to scan my film. It usually is done very badly. So, I check no scans and send back my film. I can scan things myself. Of course I never use a lab for B&W as I develop those myself. I've also started developing C-41 by myself. When I use ECN-2 I still send that to a specialty lab. However, I'll soon do those myself also.
The only negs I chuck are those from a shoot where I literally know they are all bad photos. I don't need reminding of a bad shoot! I'll never use them. But if I have one or two keepers I'lll keep the roll.
Funny thing, a week ago I purchased a Pearl in 6x4.5 folder. I shot a test roll, Foma 100. I got out my bottle of trusty Rodial that has never failed me. Same thing happened, perfectly clear negs. Had about the same amount as your bottle. I checked the date, 10 years old. I guess it will go bad after all.
Having used 60 year old Rodinal which worked perfectly, even though it looked like burnt engine oil, I can't quite fathom how it would go off in 10 years... I would have thought if you found that original bottle from the 1800s, even that would work.
This just reminded me Rog. I have a Hawke laser range finder from when I used to go shooting a few years ago. Its a big to put it on the camera though.
Interesting toy. Guess it would be nice for helping in certain situations. I have used an old fashioned tape measure before when I am using my Mamiya 645 1000s. Certain compositions do not allow for easy viewing of the viewfinder so having a measuring device comes in handy.
Rodinal going bad? wow, I think that's the first time I have seen that before. I suppose everything has an expiry. I love that Rodinal does have a longer, stable shelf life than most. I have three gallons of concentrate ilford DDX that I tried a few times and seems to still work well too. It is about 20 years old. I do mix it a bit stronger than normal to compensate a bit.
Back in the day, before digital, I remember companies that would post you your prints but you had to pay extra to get the negs back, presumably because it took extra time to cut the negs and put them in the envelope before posting it back. I've got shots from when I was a poor student (many moons ago) that definitely have no negs.
Hi Im not a film guy, used to just get pics done in boots, but you should maybe never throw away negs, because, Megapixels of sensors go up and up. A scan will stay at the resolution it was made. A negative could be scanned at a higher resolution later on. That said, I have seen you tube saying its 24 useful Megapixels on a negative, I guess a 35mm one. ive seen a thing the best b & w film resolves 1/168th of a millimeter, but do we get that in real life, and Ive seen a thing, your eye could be about 7 megapixels equivalent.
I wonder what could have happened to your Rodinal. I see it's an Adox version. I'm still using Agfa Rodinals that are 20+years older than that of Adox's... and I have no issues.
I’ve always wondered why products that could give you an instant readout of an accurate subject distance weren’t readily available. They would be very useful for shooting non-reflex 16mm or 8/Super 8mm film cameras as well as older still cameras without direct visible focus assurance. Maybe this will be the start of such products.
Perhaps an even more accurate way of determining proper focusing and depth of field is to use a Callaway Golf 300 Pro Laser Rangefinder and a depth of field app on your smartphone.
I fount it easier to focus using the distance numbers on the barrel. So for example my barrel says 6feet, set it to that and move the camera using the laser to exactly 6 feet away. With smaller apertures it doesn't have to be so exact.
How accurate is the light meter compared to others you've tested? I have an old Minolta SRT 202 I bought recently. It takes mercury batteries that are no longer available. I'll need a light meter to use it.
Well, there's a reason it came with this small targeting aid (I missed the correct term), so that you don't have to watch for the little blinking dot on the target. I would still prefer my little external rangefinder (I do have a version with close-focusing scale, so that I can measure below 1 m). But as a new device, and including the light meter, it might come in handy. Does it have a way to "hold" the distance measurement (like some light meters have for the exposure measurement)? This would make it much more useful together with the targeting aid.
Had the same problem with Rodinal. Film negs were blank. I also thought that Rodinal never “died” … lost some very nice photos that way . I thought it was because the heat of my darkroom, it gets 40 degrees in summer here, don’t think that happens in the UK . So temperature is not the issue. And the bottle was less than 2 years old. Wonder what the cause is.
Modern Rodinal is not the same recipe as the original Rodinal, some chemicals are not allowed anymore. The original lasted for years, but the modern version lasts a lot shorter. I heard from people that theirs went off after six months or so.
Original Agfa Rodinal was eternal, but not the new formulas. I used Agfa Rodinal 15 years after to be open without problems, but the new ones died in less than one year. I have a trick, and I will share with you 😜. Butane, butane for lighters. A bit od butane in the bottle crated a gas layer over tbe developer that avoid the contact with the oxygen. With this trick I have been using my Rodinal for years (new versions). This trick it's nothing new, Tetenal had a butane and propane mixture product called Protectan.
If it was made by ADOX then I am not surprised. Their version of Atomal 49 goes off within two weeks. Its built in I am afraid. Also the same is true of the new HC110. I actually found the original formula in one of my searches and it was an ealborate affair. The new version has done away with 3 ingredients including something that worked like TEA, Triethanolamine. Can't remeber what it was TBH, but the new formula is not suspended in the thick syrupy fluid so it doesn't last anywhere near as long as the original HC110.
@@rossmansell5877 The problem is that in a developer whose chemicals call for water as a dissolvent, it is the water itself that starts the oxidisation process. Sadly, not all the chemicals used as developer can be dissolved in TEA or Ehylene Glycol. This is the main reason that the old HC110 or even the present Pyro 510 last such a long time in the bottle.
Nobody who ever pointed a laserpointer trough the rangefinder of a camera would say "Finally" or produce such a rangefinder. It is a simply impractical and the reason is, you will not see the point. (I tried it with red and green lasers, same problem.) Graflex offered for the Kalart rangefinders a lamp that shined trough the RF. With light from a bulb you could find the two patches of light to bring them together. Being light spreads and forms bigger patches, easier to find. Maybe it would help to have a light beam pointing the same direction as the laser. But I doubt this meter is accurate. I guess it has the same technology like the distance measuring laser devices used in constructions. Those have an inaccuracy of some mm, the best ones. (The cheaper are in the cm range.) That is fine for construction, but not for focalising a camera. Besides, those construction things have a much larger base, not the tiny one of this gizmo. I am happy you tested. Now we know.
Quite shocked about Rodinal going bad. How old was it? I use only Rodinal. I shoot 15 films a year 15* 12ml rodinal = 300 ml use of Rodinal my bottle contains 500ml. So I do almost 2 years with 1 bottle. Maybe that is too long.
I also noticed it was the Adox version whiic doesn't make it very old at all - at least not by the original Agfa Rodinal standard of longevity However Adox says it is made to the original recipe used by Agfa up to the date of bankruptcy in 2005 So its a strange "death" ín my opinion. So strange in fact that I believe Adox would be interested to hear about this and hopefully pass its opinion why this happened
I really don't know! I think maybe the light version doesn't have the laser. Or maybe the pro version comes with the magnetic sight (which you don't need). The website is still being worked on by the looks of it.
This is a laser and as a photographer shooting a portrait you're focusing on your subject's eye... don't you risk blinding them or damaging their eye sight? Lasers usually come with a health warning. Has someone not thought this through or am I being too health and safety?
I have the Reflx one, I use it mostly as a calibration tool when calibrating rangefinders in cameras (well that and a block of flats a mile or so away).
I checked out the company website - they're very cagey about price, lists $30 - $139 with no info on which variant costs what. Golfers use the same tech for finding the precise distance to the pin so they can pick the right club. They range about the same prices, looks like a vertical set of binoculars.
They do mention the prices Magnetic Sight: $30 Red Dot Sight: $60 Lite Meter: $119 Pro Meter: $139 The Pro has 7 degrees of light control while the Lite has 30
@@LilSirAxolotl Apologies, I missed that. I only clicked to the third page of 'Buy Now' info on web site 🤷♂ $30 for a bit of magnetic metal to tell you what you're pointing your camera at ....
Well Roger I went back and found a video you did where you said you were not going to review products on your channel because there were plenty of others doing it. What happened mate ?
Throwing away the negatives is nothing new. I saw it 20 years ago when the negs were not even scanned. People kept the prints and throw away the negative. They were interested in the final product, not valuing the intermediary step.
I'd never throw away the originals of my work. I've been scanning negatives for 20 years, and scanners have come a long way since then. There is still room for improvement when converting film to digital files.
100% KEEP THE NEGS
My sister wanted me to scan family photos from the 80s and 90s. Pictures were washed out (cheap 1h dev and print from back then). I did my best, but if only we had kept the negs, I could have DSLR scan them and oh my those pics would have looked soooo much better.
Hi Roger, trashing negs is not only for the young. My now late mother in law had a great family album of medium format contact prints from the 1950's onwards. Asked her if she had the negs and she said no, binned them. My parents in their late 80's are the same, got the prints and dumped the negs.
That is a shame Andrew! I can imagine a lot of photographers trashed their negs either through a bad moment of madness or no need for them anymore. I've told my daughter never to chuck mine if anything happens to me. ha ha.
Yeah, I work at a lab too. The College kids, frequently don't want their negs. But most of them are shooting disposable cameras and even know what negatives are in the first place. We do our best to educate them though.
Well done.
That last bit, i was talking to my local lab a while ago, and she explained that they now specifically ask people if they want their negatives back at drop off, because so many people were getting the scans emailed to them, then just abandoning the film at the lab, where they used to keep it in case and it was piling up. But now they just chuck it after scanning if you don't want them. I couldn't quite believe it myself and said much the same as you, about keeping them around, maybe we'll have better scanners in the future, and you want to rescan, or you know, you lose the digital files, etc.
LOL same. When I ask if they want the negatives back I usually get a blank stare. Then after that whatever I say seems to be in another language. 🤣
As a person that just got into film recently, I had one big goal in mind: Processing my own black and white film.
I rarely throw away negatives, unless they're somehow scratched or messed up, even then, I at least get my loupe out and inspect it before I make my decision...
Re-scanning them should be fun, especially with an upgraded scanner.
Comes from living in a digital world. Some labs even charge extra for mailing film back instead of making it part of the processing service. I don't want a lab to scan my film. It usually is done very badly. So, I check no scans and send back my film. I can scan things myself. Of course I never use a lab for B&W as I develop those myself. I've also started developing C-41 by myself. When I use ECN-2 I still send that to a specialty lab. However, I'll soon do those myself also.
The only negs I chuck are those from a shoot where I literally know they are all bad photos. I don't need reminding of a bad shoot! I'll never use them. But if I have one or two keepers I'lll keep the roll.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I do exactly the same
It's incredible that they figured out how to get the laser to show up as red on black and white film!
😂 I'm already asking for the formula
I never knew Rodinol could go off! I'm highly tempted to get that little gadget, being a fellow folder fan! Thank you.
I think you'll like it for your folders. I found it useful, yet a bit slower than my ROWI. I'm in no rush.
An interesting device, and lovely to see George again!
Hello Roop! 👋🏻
Funny thing, a week ago I purchased a Pearl in 6x4.5 folder. I shot a test roll, Foma 100. I got out my bottle of trusty Rodial that has never failed me. Same thing happened, perfectly clear negs. Had about the same amount as your bottle. I checked the date, 10 years old. I guess it will go bad after all.
Having used 60 year old Rodinal which worked perfectly, even though it looked like burnt engine oil, I can't quite fathom how it would go off in 10 years... I would have thought if you found that original bottle from the 1800s, even that would work.
This just reminded me Rog. I have a Hawke laser range finder from when I used to go shooting a few years ago. Its a big to put it on the camera though.
ha ha! Imagine! Still could be useful Lensman!
Interesting toy. Guess it would be nice for helping in certain situations. I have used an old fashioned tape measure before when I am using my Mamiya 645 1000s. Certain compositions do not allow for easy viewing of the viewfinder so having a measuring device comes in handy.
I've used a tape measure lots of times for closer photos instead of a range finder.
Rodinal going bad? wow, I think that's the first time I have seen that before. I suppose everything has an expiry. I love that Rodinal does have a longer, stable shelf life than most. I have three gallons of concentrate ilford DDX that I tried a few times and seems to still work well too. It is about 20 years old. I do mix it a bit stronger than normal to compensate a bit.
Yes surprised me too!
I've been using the Leica DISTO D1 for some time and I'm happy with it.
Nice!
Back in the day, before digital, I remember companies that would post you your prints but you had to pay extra to get the negs back, presumably because it took extra time to cut the negs and put them in the envelope before posting it back. I've got shots from when I was a poor student (many moons ago) that definitely have no negs.
Thats nuts. Maybe for family snaps back then Bonus Print etc. I was surprised to hear it today.
Great vlog. I’m a big fan of my old hot shoe rangefinder. Out of interest, how old was your bottle of rodinal?
2 years easily. It's been sitting in the kitchen for months next to my rotary processor so not sure if long exposure to light may have done it!
well they need to explain what the difference between the lite and pro version.
Website says 7 degree light control for the Pro and 30 for the Lite
I admit the website is a bit confusing. I have sent them some suggestions as well a grammar correction.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss thank you...of course, after commenting here, i found the differences "hidden" in the feature list.
I use a Bosch Zamo handheld laser distance device, works great
Hi Im not a film guy, used to just get pics done in boots, but you should maybe never throw away negs, because, Megapixels of sensors go up and up. A scan will stay at the resolution it was made. A negative could be scanned at a higher resolution later on. That said, I have seen you tube saying its 24 useful Megapixels on a negative, I guess a 35mm one. ive seen a thing the best b & w film resolves 1/168th of a millimeter, but do we get that in real life, and Ive seen a thing, your eye could be about 7 megapixels equivalent.
I wonder what could have happened to your Rodinal. I see it's an Adox version. I'm still using Agfa Rodinals that are 20+years older than that of Adox's... and I have no issues.
I really don't know. It's bizarre. A lot of crystallisation in there!
I’ve always wondered why products that could give you an instant readout of an accurate subject distance weren’t readily available. They would be very useful for shooting non-reflex 16mm or 8/Super 8mm film cameras as well as older still cameras without direct visible focus assurance. Maybe this will be the start of such products.
Perhaps an even more accurate way of determining proper focusing and depth of field is to use a Callaway Golf 300 Pro Laser Rangefinder and a depth of field app on your smartphone.
Interesting device, but there’s still some guesswork involved in that you have to find the right point on the focussing barrel. Helpful nonetheless.
I fount it easier to focus using the distance numbers on the barrel. So for example my barrel says 6feet, set it to that and move the camera using the laser to exactly 6 feet away. With smaller apertures it doesn't have to be so exact.
This would be useful for those that shoot lenses wide open. Not as useful at smaller appatures, but still worth it.
lol i shoot closed down but i always miss focus. Im terrible with distances
It is if you're closed down and shooting focus at 4 feet in front of you. Not so needed for infinite work such as scapes.
Keep it simple with your folder. Shoot small apertures and subjects over 10 meters away. Sharp every time.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss thank you, for the tip
How accurate is the light meter compared to others you've tested? I have an old Minolta SRT 202 I bought recently. It takes mercury batteries that are no longer available. I'll need a light meter to use it.
I use a builder’s laser.
Don’t recommend lasers for night street work tho…
Especially on the road!
Well, there's a reason it came with this small targeting aid (I missed the correct term), so that you don't have to watch for the little blinking dot on the target. I would still prefer my little external rangefinder (I do have a version with close-focusing scale, so that I can measure below 1 m). But as a new device, and including the light meter, it might come in handy. Does it have a way to "hold" the distance measurement (like some light meters have for the exposure measurement)? This would make it much more useful together with the targeting aid.
Yes it does hold the range of you don't use it in continuous mode. Good point about the magnetic sight!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Ah yeah, "sight" is the term. I think it could make it much easier to use - if it is precise enough (parallax could be an issue).
Had the same problem with Rodinal. Film negs were blank. I also thought that Rodinal never “died” … lost some very nice photos that way . I thought it was because the heat of my darkroom, it gets 40 degrees in summer here, don’t think that happens in the UK . So temperature is not the issue. And the bottle was less than 2 years old. Wonder what the cause is.
Mine has been in the kitchen for some months. Maybe it was the kitchen lights made it go off?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss mine stored in my darkroom, always pitch-black, unless I switch on the lights
Roger, How old was the Rodinal? you have me worried about the ADOX rodinal as the old stuff never died
I use a watameter with my nettar and it works great.
Modern Rodinal is not the same recipe as the original Rodinal, some chemicals are not allowed anymore. The original lasted for years, but the modern version lasts a lot shorter. I heard from people that theirs went off after six months or so.
Good to know. I’ve been using an old bottle of Rodinal that I’ve had for years. I haven’t opened my newest bottle I purchased a month or two ago.
Six Months! That is quick.
I'm yet to develop a film 'fixer first'. I've done every other stupid mistake though, so I guess that's one to look forward to. 😩
I did it years ago after a beautiful foggy morning shoot! Silly mistake. Didn't label my jugs!
Original Agfa Rodinal was eternal, but not the new formulas. I used Agfa Rodinal 15 years after to be open without problems, but the new ones died in less than one year.
I have a trick, and I will share with you 😜. Butane, butane for lighters. A bit od butane in the bottle crated a gas layer over tbe developer that avoid the contact with the oxygen. With this trick I have been using my Rodinal for years (new versions).
This trick it's nothing new, Tetenal had a butane and propane mixture product called Protectan.
If it was made by ADOX then I am not surprised. Their version of Atomal 49 goes off within two weeks. Its built in I am afraid. Also the same is true of the new HC110. I actually found the original formula in one of my searches and it was an ealborate affair. The new version has done away with 3 ingredients including something that worked like TEA, Triethanolamine. Can't remeber what it was TBH, but the new formula is not suspended in the thick syrupy fluid so it doesn't last anywhere near as long as the original HC110.
Oddly..breathing into the bottle is just as good. and less explosive!🤣
@@rossmansell5877 The problem is that in a developer whose chemicals call for water as a dissolvent, it is the water itself that starts the oxidisation process. Sadly, not all the chemicals used as developer can be dissolved in TEA or Ehylene Glycol. This is the main reason that the old HC110 or even the present Pyro 510 last such a long time in the bottle.
Thats interesting!
Nobody who ever pointed a laserpointer trough the rangefinder of a camera would say "Finally" or produce such a rangefinder. It is a simply impractical and the reason is, you will not see the point. (I tried it with red and green lasers, same problem.) Graflex offered for the Kalart rangefinders a lamp that shined trough the RF. With light from a bulb you could find the two patches of light to bring them together. Being light spreads and forms bigger patches, easier to find.
Maybe it would help to have a light beam pointing the same direction as the laser.
But I doubt this meter is accurate. I guess it has the same technology like the distance measuring laser devices used in constructions. Those have an inaccuracy of some mm, the best ones. (The cheaper are in the cm range.) That is fine for construction, but not for focalising a camera. Besides, those construction things have a much larger base, not the tiny one of this gizmo.
I am happy you tested. Now we know.
Reflx Lab has a distance meter too, sadly doesnt also meter light
What a nice dog.
Thanks mate. He's a good boy
Quite shocked about Rodinal going bad. How old was it? I use only Rodinal. I shoot 15 films a year 15* 12ml rodinal = 300 ml use of Rodinal my bottle contains 500ml. So I do almost 2 years with 1 bottle. Maybe that is too long.
Might have left the cap loose. Easy to do. Lots of oxygen available then to speed up crystallisation.
Surprised me too! About 2 years in that bottle. It's been on the side for months so not sure if I should have put it in a dark cupboard.
I also noticed it was the Adox version whiic doesn't make it very old at all - at least not by the original Agfa Rodinal standard of longevity However Adox says it is made to the original recipe used by Agfa up to the date of bankruptcy in 2005
So its a strange "death" ín my opinion. So strange in fact that I believe Adox would be interested to hear about this and hopefully pass its opinion why this happened
Would you say this chi laser mater is better or worse than the hedeco lime 2?
I haven't used the hedeco lime 2 meter.
Is your intro tune the soundtrack of Grange Hill?
ha ha, no it's not.
Ideally I guess it needs its own little viewfinder window so you dont need to check where the laser is hitting.
Press button for laser put hand in front to check..simples....
Off the wall? I wonder if you could integrate a flash meter with this?
Who knows. The Chinese are coming out with all sorts of products these days for photographers. Maybe an integrated cup holder next.
Roger, How old was your Rodinal ?
Couple of years at least. Only thing I can think of is its been left on the side and not in a dark cupboard.
What is the difference between the Lite and Pro version?
I really don't know! I think maybe the light version doesn't have the laser. Or maybe the pro version comes with the magnetic sight (which you don't need). The website is still being worked on by the looks of it.
This is a laser and as a photographer shooting a portrait you're focusing on your subject's eye... don't you risk blinding them or damaging their eye sight? Lasers usually come with a health warning. Has someone not thought this through or am I being too health and safety?
No you wouldn't point it at someone's eye. Surely thats common sense.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss To you and me maybe... but I'll bet there's someone out there who will out of ignorance.
Thanks for your professional review and feel free to contact us if any questions
Another way to make your film look completely blank is to run B&W film through the c41 process. The bleach will strip everything right off.
I imagine it would do!
Reflx Lab have a laser rangefinder with cold shoe
I have the Reflx one, I use it mostly as a calibration tool when calibrating rangefinders in cameras (well that and a block of flats a mile or so away).
I have one, mostly I use it for close focusing. Other than that didnt use it, cos scare burn ppl eye...
I tried using a laser distance device with my folders. I couldn’t see the dot so I gave up. My Rowi works far better.
Same trouble I had. Much easier with bigger objects like the tree trunks.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss FYI, I got the Rowi on your recommendation. It’s a great rangefinder.
Hello George
👋🏻
I checked out the company website - they're very cagey about price, lists $30 - $139 with no info on which variant costs what.
Golfers use the same tech for finding the precise distance to the pin so they can pick the right club. They range about the same prices, looks like a vertical set of binoculars.
They do mention the prices
Magnetic Sight: $30
Red Dot Sight: $60
Lite Meter: $119
Pro Meter: $139
The Pro has 7 degrees of light control while the Lite has 30
@@LilSirAxolotl Apologies, I missed that. I only clicked to the third page of 'Buy Now' info on web site 🤷♂ $30 for a bit of magnetic metal to tell you what you're pointing your camera at ....
It's on there Iain. Yeah I don't think you need to magnetic sight to see where the dot is going
Just starting the video, I am immediately concerned that the laser isn't green.
It's sad that they haven't gone for a green laser. These are pretty much the only ones that are visible in daylight.
They are far more powerful.
Rodinal is merciless when it goes bad. It works nice, and then all of a sudden it just destroyes the film. I've had it happen once too.
First time I've seen it go bad!
My
Local
Lab in town does the same. No one wants the negative…
Crazy!
0:54 Sorry, my friend… I am off for good! Rubbish like that _sudden_ red light is triggering seizures in some people.
it was an effect not the laser. Sorry if it caused any visual stress
I don't think you have to see the laser as long as it is on and the Meter Can See It
That Rollei rangefinder thingy of yours is actually nowhere to be found. Google gives 0 results. Would you mind send a link maybe?
@peinmilan Rowi not Rollei 😉
ROWI
Well Roger I went back and found a video you did where you said you were not going to review products on your channel because there were plenty of others doing it. What happened mate ?
He changed his mind..................
That must have been some years ago! Some are worth reviewing Rick.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss or things are not going so good that you need to review things to make more money ????
ALWAYS use a drop of developer over film to test it, ALWAYS
Throwing away the negatives is nothing new. I saw it 20 years ago when the negs were not even scanned. People kept the prints and throw away the negative. They were interested in the final product, not valuing the intermediary step.
Gen Z youngsters!🙄🤷♂️🤣